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  • 4.RESULT

    MANAGEMENT OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION RETAIL BASED ON REUSE

    – A STRUGGLE WITH MULTIPLE LOGICS

    1. PURPOSE The purpose of the study is to show the complexity in the management of fashion-retail based on reuse by identifying and explaining obstacles in the reuse process.

    3.MATERIAL AND METHOD The study is inspired by ethnography and based on 41 interviews and additional observations, focusing on actions and practices at ReTuna, a shopping mall based on reuse.

    ReTuna aims to be a traditional mall, but the shops sell reused products.

    5.CONCLUSION The complexity is a result of the need to manage and balance different logics, which are enacted by the actors’ actions. Thus, the goal of re-circulating as much fashion products as possible is hindered by actors not being able to handle different logics equally due to a lack of knowledge, experience and skills, coordination, and material conditions. The shopping mall logic receives most support.

    AUTEX2019 – 19th World Textile Conference on Textiles at the Crossroads, 11-15 June 2019, Ghent, Belgium

    Scan for a 2 minutes BBC-video about ReTuna

    Shopping mall logic

    Reuse logic & Work integration logic

    Basis of attention The mall’s primary goals focus on all

    logics, but the prioritization is fuzzy. The owner and the management prioritize the

    shopping mall logic, while some of the stores do otherwise.

    Basis of strategy The reuse ambition is obstructed as the management has emphasized the creation of a system for market transactions, i.e., the shopping mall

    logic which does not favour the reuse of fashion.

    Primary actors At the mall, the same actor plays

    many roles. The combination of different roles and lack of experience and knowledge

    complicates the work.

    Focus of practices Practices at the mall and the material

    context are seldom in line with all three logics at the same time, and this is likewise a source of obstacles to the

    reuse of fashion.

    2.CONCEPTUAL FRAMEWORK A performative perspective on institutional logics [1][2] enables the identification of three enacted rationalities working in favour and in conflict with each other.

    1. Meyer, J.W. and B. Rowan, Institutionalized organizations: Formal structure as myth and ceremony. American journal of sociology, 1977. 83(2): p. 340-363. 2. Lindberg, K., Performing multiple logics in practice. Scandinavian Journal of Management, 2014. 30(4): p. 485-497.

    Reuse logic

    Shopping mall logic

    Work integration logic

    Hedegård L (lars.hedegard@hb.se), Gustafsson E, & Paras M. K. The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, Sweden

    Photos and images: The authors and ReTuna