location: roubaix town hall. 17 grand place, roubaix, 59100fcvcnetwork.com/fcvc2019.pdf ·...

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PROGRAMME As of 5th July 2019

Tuesday 9th July 2019 Location: Roubaix Town Hall. 17 Grand Place, Roubaix, 59100

Time Session Session details Chair Location / room 0900 - 0945 Registration Registration

Coffee, tea and cold drinks available. Roubaix Town Hall

0945-1000 Welcome Welcome address & housekeeping Graham H. Roberts & Sarah Gilligan.

La Salle Pierre-de-Roubaix

1000 -1100 Keynote Keynote: Sophie Kurkdjian - Culture(s) de Mode Paris, capital of fashion, 1858-1947 Chair: Graham H. Roberts https://culturesdemode.com/

Graham H. Roberts

1100 - 1115 Break COFFEE 1115 - 1215 Keynote

roundtable Keynote roundtable Representations of fashion: yesterday, today, tomorrow. Chair: Pamela Church Gibson (London College of Fashion) Speakers: Kristell Blache-Comte (EHESS, Paris), Laurent Cotta (Palais Galliera, Paris), Marlène Van de Casteele (Paris Galliera, Paris), Alice Morin (Université Paris 3-Sorbonne Nouvelle).

Pamela Church Gibson

La Salle Pierre-de-Roubaix

1215 - 1230 Transit Transit between Roubaix Town Hall and IMMD, 651 Avenue des Nations Unies, Roubaix

1230 - 1330 Lunch LUNCH Room 209-211 1330-1500 Session 1 1A: Costuming identities on and beyond the screen

Chair: Lauren Boumaroun Jacky Collins and Sarah Gilligan Everyday dress & costuming masculinities in the films of Pedro Almodóvar.

Lauren Boumaroun

IMMD Lecture Theatre ('Amphithéâtre') 2, Lower Ground Floor

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Pamela Flanagan Female protagonists of the new noir: the curated representation of gender and identity. Ashley Morgan The suit maketh the man: masculinity and social class in Kingsman: The Secret Service (Vaughn, 2014).

1330-1500 1B: Curation, fashion and scent Chair: Emmanuelle Dirix Elke Katharina Wittich Textile identities – decoding traditional costumes, redefining community-Id beyond nationalitites. Viveka Kjellmer Scented scenographies: visualizing and conceptualizing fragrance in the museum (includes scents). Emmanuelle Dirix Money talks: the designer retrospective show & the business of fashion.

Emmanuelle Dirix

Room 101 1st Floor Please note, the seminar rooms on the 1st floor seat a maximum of 30 delegates.

1330-1500 Papers in French

1C: Fashion communication & change (papers in French) Chair: Nick Rees Roberts Silvano Mendes Marque de fabrique: les sieges d’entreprise dans la construction de nouvelles narratives de la communication de mode. (Fashion architecture: the use of corporate headquarters in luxury brand narratives). Benjamin Astier Contribution of a textile third-place in Roubaix to a regional innovation ecosystem. Elisabeth Jayot Modularity in fashion design: practical foresight relative to transposing the open object approach onto clothing.

Nick Rees Roberts

Room 102 1st Floor

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1330-1500 1D: Music & style: Prince Chair: Casci Ritchie Karen Turman Cherry moons, banana skirts, and Le dandysme: contextualizing Prince's style through a French fashion perspective. Kirsty Fairclough “Style is like a second cousin to class” – Prince, gender, subversion and style. Casci Ritchie Love signs: purple utopias, identity and the dress of Prince Rogers Nelson.

Casci Ritchie Room 103 1st Floor

1330-1500 1E: Fashion promotion, photography & consumption Chair: Vanessa Gerrie Kevin Alexander Su Irving Penn’s fashion photography as a transformative medium Elena Siemens Restless: fashion window art Da Vinci to Warhol. Vanessa Gerrie Meta-Fashion: blurring disciplinary boundaries in the contemporary fashionscape.

Vanessa Gerrie

Room 104 1st Floor

1500-1530 Coffee

Room 209-211

1530-1700 Session 2 2A: Film, costume & fashion Chair: Pamela Church Gibson Drake Stutesman Clare West’s influence as a costume designer to DW Griffith and Cecil B. De Mille.


Room number Lecture Theatre ('Amphithéâtre') 2, Lower Ground Floor

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Melanie Williams History’s hummingbirds re-envisaged for the peacock sixties: the period costume designs of Jocelyn Rickards for Alfred the Great (1969).

1530-1700 2B: Queering identities Chair: Jay McCauley Bowstead Jay McCauley Bowsted Influential images – diversifying the male body in fashionable representation. Nicola Brajato Ambiguous gaze: reframing the male body in Dirk Bikkembergs’ work. Charlie Athill Reverse Tomboy: (re)definitions of gender fluidity through sensory engagement with material culture (working title).

Jay McCauley Bowstead

Room 101 1st Floor

1530-1700 Papers in French

2C: Transnational fashion design (papers in French) Chair: Sophie Kurkdjian Myriam Fouillet Once a costume addict, always a costume addict: Claude Autant-Lara’s working methods, 1945-1959. Margarida Amaro Nadir Tati, la mode de l’Angola au Monde. Jihen Trabelsi kraiem Mutation du paraître aux pays du Maghreb, le cas de la Tunisie, du Maroc et de l’Algérie. (Mutation of appearances in the Maghreb countries, the case of Tunisia, Morocco and Algeria).

Sophie Kurkdjian

Room 102 1st Floor

1530-1700 Papers and participatory embroidery workshop

2D: Sustainable and craft cultures – including participatory workshop Chair: Claire Baker David Leathlean The NiwiN (Nothing I wear is New) Sustainable Project

Claire Baker Room 103 1st Floor

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Claire Baker Embroidery as language – Chernobyl self-settlers (15 min paper and instigating a practice based research participatory workshop – part two will take place on Wednesday afternoon session 6D: 1600-1730).

La Piscine Entry to all areas of the museum (main pool area, picture galleries, temporary exhibitions, etc.) will be free for all FCVC2019 delegates from 1100 to 1800 on Tuesday 9th July. Delegates must show their FCVC2019 badge for entry. Please note: Delegates will also have exclusive free access to the pool area, and both first floor (where the fashion exhibits are located) and the ground floor of the museum after the round table keynote (1730-1830) during the reception event.

La Piscine 23 Rue de l'Espérance, 59100 Roubaix

1700-1730 Break & Transit

1730-1830 Keynote roundtable

La Piscine Keynote roundtable: curating fashion exhibitions. Chair: Graham H. Roberts. Speakers: Eve Demoen (Modemuseum, Hasselt, Belgium), Sylvette Gaudichon (La Piscine, Roubaix, France), Anne-Claire Laronde (Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode, Calais, France), Georgina Ripley (National Museums Scotland, Edinburgh, UK), Scott Schiavone (Fan Museum, Greenwich, UK).

Graham Roberts

La Piscine 23 Rue de l'Espérance, 59100 Roubaix 1st Floor auditorium Maximum: 111 delegates.

1900-2030 Reception with drinks and canapes.

La Piscine Exhibition access and reception. Delegates will have free access to the pool area, and both the first floor (where the fashion exhibits are located) and the ground floor of the museum after the keynote round table (1730-1830).

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Don’t forget to purchase tickets for our fundraising prize draw in support of mental health charity CALM (Campaign Against Living Miserably). Free, confidential helpline 0800 585 858 & webchat open 5pm-12am daily https://www.thecalmzone.net/help/webchat/ Follow CALM on Twitter @the CALMzone

Wednesday 10th July 2019 Location: Nordcréa, Usine Roussel, 139 Rue des Arts, 59100, Roubaix.

0830-0945 Breakfast networking

Nordcréa Business breakfast: networking event This event is kindly sponsored by Nordcréa and will be of most relevance to French speaking delegates with an interest in the French fashion and textiles industries. http://www.nordcrea.fr

Nordcréa Usine Roussel, 139 Rue des Arts, 59100 Roubaix.

Wednesday 10th July 2019 Location: IMMD, 651 Avenues des Nations Unies, 59100, Roubaix

0900-1000 Registration Registration Coffee, tea and cold drinks available. Room 209-211

IMMD 651 Avenue des Nations Unies, 59100, Roubaix

1000-1130 Session 3

3A: Cosplay, fandom and consumption Chair: Lauren Boumaroun Lauren Boumaroun Geek girl power: identity, community, and fan-made fashion

Lauren Boumaroun


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Paul Mountfort Becoming animal / becoming other in cosplay.

1000-1130 3B: Fashion, Gender, Identities and Belonging Chair: Graham H. Roberts Paul Owen The fashion of counter culture, obsession, style and place. Nicoletta Pellegrino and Alyssa Erspamer Political demonstrations or catwalks? Fashion as key to the performance of belonging. Georgia Mackay Street-where? On shoes, fashion writing and falling short.

Graham H. Roberts

Room 101 1st Floor

1000-1130 3C: Material cultures, experiences and policy Chair: Ashley Morgan Lisa J. Hackett Walking a mile in her shoes: introducing a framework for undertaking material culture investigations of clothing. Polycarp Kolesov Body accessories’ transformative effect as the identity shift in performative processes. Stephen Amico (TBC) Fashion, phenomenology, and future corporealities

Ashley Morgan

Room 102 1st Floor

1000-1130 Video presentations and drawing workshop

3D: Practice based research: video presentations and drawing workshop Chair: Lara Kipp Geneviève Favre Petroff From Robe (2005) to Vocalise Me (2018). Céline Ducret ‘A Journey to escape’ screening.

Lara Kipp Room 103 1st Floor

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Céline Ducret & Anushka Tay Touch translations: an intervention (drawing workshop).

1000-1130 Flash presentations & roundtable discussion.

3E: Diversity, activism and digital media. Flash presentations and roundtable discussion. Chair: Vanessa Gerrie Alla Myzelev Fashion of activism: craft and self-fashioning by Pussy Riot and FEMEN. Elli Meekings How has the hyperreal become such an essential component of the Postmodern world? Olivia Johnston The intra-expressivity of fashion on Instagram: assemblage & digital technology in the reproduction of professional fashionable identities.

Vanessa Gerrie

Room 104 1st Floor

1130-1145 Coffee Room 209-211

1145-1315 Session 4 Network and natter

4A: Network and natter: mental health and academia FCVC Network in support of CALM (Campaign Against Living Miserably) Chairs: Lauren Boumaroun, Georgia Mackay Whether it's about you, 'a friend', colleague, loved one, student or a stranger, share your experiences in a supportive environment. Suicide is the UK's biggest killer of men under 45. Free, confidential helpline 0800 585 858 & webchat open 5pm-12am daily https://www.thecalmzone.net/help/webchat/ Follow CALM on Twitter @the CALMzone

Lauren Boumaroun / Georgia Mackay


1145-1315 4B: Skin, the body and performance Chair: Madaleine Trigg

Madaleine Trigg

Room 101 1st Floor

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Tina Bicat The collaborative designer in rehearsal– with particular reference to extreme physical performance. Lara Kipp From Marlene to Conchita: gender performativities and iconicity in “naked” dresses. Lorraine Henry (TBC) Black skin as costume.

1145-1315 4C: Luxury, lifestyle & identities Chair: Vanessa Gerrie Emily Clark The more masculine you are, the more feminine you can be: exploring the shifting perception of what it is to be masculine in the 21st century. Ioanna Karagiorgou The ’modern gentleman’: luxurious lifestyles & UK-based personal lifestyle bloggers. Aisha Asif It’s cool to care: Diet Prada, ‘Woke’ fashion and clicktivism.

Vanessa Gerrie

Room 102 1st Floor

1145-1315 Flash presentations & roundtable discussion.

4D: Sustainable fashion cultures Chair: Lindsay Parker Daniela Candeloro Sustainable fashion within online communication. Daria Mikerina Long-lasting fashion” as an ethic and aesthetic distinction. Untangling representational strategies of new and “more sustainable” fashion brands. Molly Cheeseman How can alternative hedonism shape our understanding of a more sustainable fashion industry? Lindsay Parker Tracing the fur debate through visual communication in fashion magazines.

Lindsay Parker

Room 103 1st Floor

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1145-1315 4E: East Asian clothing Cultures Chair: Carolin Becke Raven Ong Filipiniana: fabric and silhouettes in the transnational journey. Anna Kleiman The decency dissent: Kuroda Seiki’s French nudes meet the Japanese nakedness of the Meiji Era. Carolin Becke Between fashion and tradition: negotiating kimono in twenty-first century Japan.

Carolin Becke

Room 104 1st Floor

1315-1415 Lunch

Room 209-211

1415-1545 Session 5 5A: Fashion, Football, Fighting. Chair: Neil Kirkham Joanne Pickering & Mark Brown Proper Clobber: football, fighting and collective joy in the Leeds dresser scene. Liza Betts The Spice Boys: fashion, class & masculinity. Neil Kirkham ‘Very flashy’: Denmark, hummel and the national football shirt.

Neil Kirkham


1415-1545 5B: Textual Adaptations: Practice Based Research Chair: Sarah Gilligan Shirley van de Polder Two chameleons, same station John Berger & Tilda Swinton through free association. Jess Richards Transformations of text: artistic processes within a creative writing practice.

Sarah Gilligan

Room 101 1st Floor

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Sarah Gilligan Tactile transmediality: touch, emotion, fabric and identities.

1415-1545 5C: Fashioning Identities Chair: Jay McCauley Bowstead Doris Domoszlai-Lantner Liszt, Mayakovsky, Macklovitch: case studies of a nineteenth, twentieth, and twenty-first century artist-dandy. Frank New Barbie: the alternative muse. Nathaniel Dafydd Beard New luxury and new consumers: re-configuring luxury fashion for the 21st century.

Jay McCauley Bowstead

Room 102 1st Floor

1415-1545 Flash Presentations & roundtable discussion

5D: East Asian Clothing Cultures Flash Presentations & roundtable discussion Chair: Carolin Becke Anushka Tay Changing chinoiserie chic. Lin Guangyun The communication of Chinese TV dramas in Vietnam. Zhou Yan The changes of female costumes in Chinese film history.

Carolin Becke

Room 103 1st Floor

1415-1545 5E: Fashion Performances Chair: Madaleine Trigg Petra Maksa-Egri Postfashion in late Socialism: the fashion performances of Tamás Király.

Madaleine Trigg

Room 104 1st Floor

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Péter Perhócs Symbolic production of meaning in the context of fashion show. Vittorio Linfante Fashion performing / fashioning performances: catwalks as communication tools between market, branding and performing art.

1545-1600 Coffee Room 209-211

1600-1730 Session 6

6A: Network and natter – publishing workshop with Intellect Books Drop in and chat with Pamela Church Gibson - Principal Editor of Film, Fashion and Consumption and Mareike Wehner from Intellect about publishing your work.



1600-1730 Network and natter

6B: Network and natter: new materialities, costume & the body Chair: Madaleine Trigg. Come and discuss your work-in-progress, practice based research and ideas for collaborative projects in an informal environment.

Madaleine Trigg.

Room 101 1st Floor

1600-1730 Workshop 6C: Creative writing workshop with Jess Richards This creative session will involve drawing while hearing a magical story from the point of view of 'talking dresses' being read aloud. There will also be a chance to engage materially and textually with book pages and do some creative writing. Bring drawing materials, and any altered books / sketchbooks you'd like to discuss in an informal sharing session.

Jess Richards

Room 102 1st Floor

1600-1730 Workshop 6D: Embroidery & sketchbook workshop with Claire Baker Take part in a chilled-out network and natter embroidery / embellishment workshop session to produce a FCVC piece of collaborative creative work.

Claire Baker Room 103 1st Floor

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1600-1730 Drop in 6E: Simply sit, chat and be. A space to just be. Do as you wish. Take a chance to rest and relax and / or catch up with other delegates.

Room 104 1st Floor

1730-1800 Break Break and transit

1800-1900 Keynote roundtable primarily in French

Maisons de Mode, Le Vestiaire: keynote roundtable with designers. Chair: Graham H. Roberts Speakers: Françoise André-Gourssol (Aux Corps Anonymes), Marine Bigo (Minirine), Cyrille Grouselle (Maisons de Mode), Elisabeth Jayot (Fragments Garments). Amandine Labbé (U-Exist). http://www.maisonsdemode.com/en/lieu/roubaixvestiaire/ Free and open to the public. Please note that all of the presenters are regional French speakers and this event will primarily take place in French.

Graham H. Roberts

27 Rue de l'Espérance, 59100 Roubaix

1900-2030 Networking Drinks and Networking Le Vestiaire, Roubaix. Cash bar (delegates’ own cost).

Thursday 11th July Location: IMMD, 651 Avenue des Nations Unies, 59100, Roubaix

0900-1000 Coffee Coffee, tea and cold drinks.

1000-1130 Session 7 7A: Street style, graffiti & hip hop Chair: Nigel Lezama Hakima Metahri Between cultural assimilation and empowerment. Camila Abisambra Vandalism chic.

Nigel Lezama


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Nigel Lezama Cardi B’s manicure: Capital’s invisible hand.

1000-1130 7B: Fashion, the Body and Accessories Chair: Inés Corujo Martín Rebecca Merriman ‘Frail but fearless’: dichotomies of femininity and strength at the New York Hippodrome, 1905-17. Jason Cyrus Fashion across the seas: global dress connections during the Dutch golden age. Inés Corujo Martín Accessorizing the body politic: fashion, gender, and national identity in nineteenth-century Río de la Plata.

Inés Corujo Martín

Room 101 1st Floor

1000-1130 7C: Curation, fashion and branding Chair: Gayle Cantrell Guillaume Sirois Architecture as a communication device: fashion brands and contemporary art foundations. Romana Andò Audience for fashion. Digital touch points, brands circulation and the new consumer experience. Gayle Cantrell Focus on content, context and materiality through 360-degree fashion film (flash presentation).

Gayle Cantrell

Room 102 1st Floor

1000-1130 7D: Fashion, art, and styling. Chair: Vanessa Gerrie Daria Muller Velasquez Fashion and national identity: interactions between Italian and Russian fashion industry. Cristiana Katagiri Stereotype and difference: production and circulation of meaning in contemporary fashion industry.

Vanessa Gerrie

Room 103 1st Floor

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Olga Gurova (TBC) How is fashion governed in Finland?

1000-1130 Drop in 7E: Simply sit, chat and be. A space to just be. Do as you wish. Take a chance to rest and relax and / or catch up with other delegates.

Room 104 1st Floor

1130-1145 Break Coffee Room 209-211

1145-1315 Session 8 8A: Film and TV costuming Chair: Pamela Church Gibson Kate Harvey Harry Potter and the school uniform. Cassandra Schreiber Fashioning a Sherwood man. Siân Hunter Emma Watson, commodity feminism, and The Bling Ring.



1145-1315 8B: Crafting, Home-sewing & feminine identities Avery Novitch The Woman's Institute: crafting a new approach to home economics Lisa J. Hackett Sewing the past: why make historic fashion? Elsa Ball Big hair and authenticity.

Claire Baker

Room 101 1st Floor

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1145-1315 8C: Film Costuming Flash presentations and roundtable discussion Chair: Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén Sara Droulez (TBC) Stepping out of the cage: women, corsetry and the conquest of the public sphere. Esther Yance (flash presentation) Film costume as a subject of study. Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén (full paper) The most famous costume designer: constructing Edith Head’s narrative from school teacher to Hollywood stardust.

Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén

Room 102 1st Floor

1145-1315 8D: Costume, the body and performance Art Chair: Madeleine Trigg. Laurel Jay Carpenter I live in this dress: materiality and identity in visual art performance. Stephen Kenyon Owen Artist as prototype: the work of Tom de Freston. Olga Vainshtein (TBC) Fashioning the ‘Performance Man’: the costumes and contexts of Andrey Bartenev.

Madeleine Trigg.

Room 103 1st Floor

1145-1315 8E: Fashion Design, the Body and Consumption Chair: Susan Bishop Susan Bishop 1920s supermodels and the spectacle of fashion at Barkers department store, London. Carla Cesare Fashion networks: women in the world of design. Adam MacPharlain

Susan Bishop

Room 104 1st Floor

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An added effect: how women used accessories to create identity in the 1940s.

1315-1400 lunch Room 209-211

1400-1530 Session 9 9A: Network and Natter I need to finish ‘IT’ and then what? Is there life at the end of the PhD? Drop in and chat about the realities of thesis completion, the viva, employment, being an early career researcher, publishing ideas and new projects. share your experiences and discuss your ideas in a supportive environment.

Mareike Wehner, Pamela Church Gibson /


1400-1530 9B: Transnational Fashion Cultures Chair: Nilay Ulusoy Nazlı Alimen The investigation of an Ottoman outer garment: feraces from the sixteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Lezley George “Popping–up”: re-enchantment in the Gulf abaya-consumptionscape. Nilay Ulusoy The universe of fashion film in Turkey.

Nilay Ulusoy

Room 101 1st Floor

1400-1530 9C: Gender, sexualities, bodies and performance Chair: Madaleine Trigg. Christopher M Hodge Fashion, performance and photography: an inclusive interdisciplinary project. Tom Brassington Rot in Paradise: Considering Borderless Drag

Madaleine Trigg.

Room 102 1st Floor

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Rachael Grew Dressing the witch: clothing and transformation in the work of Leonor Fini.

1400-1530 9D: Dressing Fashionably for Performance. Chair: Nancy Deihl Carole Schinck Costuming the Torch Singer: a tailor-made transformative enactment. Anna Tendler Mulaney Waiting in the wings: clothing, class, and status in the film “Stage Door”. Marilyn Cohen and Nancy Deihl Slippery slopes: skiing, fashion, and intrigue in 1960s film.

Nancy Deihl

Room 103 1st Floor

1400-1530 Drop in 9E: Simply sit, chat and be. A space to just be. Do as you wish. Plot, plan, ponder or just practice doing nothing!

Room 104 1st Floor

1530-1545 Break Room 209-211

1545-1645 Keynote Keynote: Nick Rees Roberts (Université Paris 3-Sorbonne Nouvelle) Designer fashion culture: rethinking creativity after the luxury brand. Chair: Graham H. Roberts

Graham H. Roberts


1645-1700 End of conference

Closing remarks and end of conference. Fundraising prize draw in support of CALM (Campaign Against Living Miserably). Free, confidential helpline 0800 585 858 & webchat open 5pm-12am daily https://www.thecalmzone.net/help/webchat/ Follow CALM on Twitter @the CALMzone

Graham H. Roberts & Sarah Gilligan

Lecture Theatre ('Amphithéâtre') 2, Lower Ground Floor

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1700-1800 AGM FCVC Network Steering Group AGM (TBC) Chair: Sarah Gilligan

Sarah Gilligan

Lecture Theatre ('Amphithéâtre') 2, Lower Ground Floor

1930 - late Lille venue(s) TBC

Book launch in association with Intellect Books ‘Planet Cosplay: Costume, Play, Identity and Global Fandom’ with an informal introduction by co-author Paul Mountfort. http://www.intellectbooks.com/planet-cosplay Drinks and dinner at delegates’ own cost.

location: roubaix town hall. 17 grand place, roubaix, 59100fcvcnetwork.com/fcvc2019.pdf ·...

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