natural hair natural hair is composed of 3 yellow 2 red 1 blue
TRANSCRIPT
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Natural Hair
Natural hair is composed of
3 yellow
2 red
1 blue
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Stages of Lift
Red Red Orange Orange Gold Yellow Pale Yellow
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Formulation
To determine your level of color– desired color x 2– minus your natural level– equals your processing level
Level above 10– volume of peroxide
10 - 20 - 30 - 40
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School of Thought Color - lift and deposit Color will not lift color Level 1
– all deposit , no lift Level 5
– approximately 1/2 lift & 1/2 deposit Level 9
– mostly lift, with some deposit
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Factors to Consider
Condition of hair Underlying pigment
– warm or cool– undertones , dominant or underlying pigment
Desired color– deposit no lift– lift & deposit– mostly lift , some deposit
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Lift
Maximum lift – 20 vol.
4 levels– over 4 levels
• requires
• bleach or HL series
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Peroxides
Developers - Oxidizer Purpose
– opens cuticle– allowing color into the cortex– oxidation
molecules enlarge become trapped
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Strengths of Peroxide
5 volume– has to be made– used in filler formulas– pretreating gray hair– safest volume to use on chemically relaxed hair
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Peroxide
10 vol– deposit only – no lift– used on severely damaged hair– highest vol. for chemically relaxed hair– low lighting
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Peroxide
20 vol– needed to open cuticle– average strength– lift & deposit– coloring hair same level– used to lift 1 to 2 levels
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Peroxide
30 vol.– medium amount lift– 2 to 3 levels
40 vol.– lift only– 3 to 4 levels– used w/ HL tints
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Info
Strand test– formulation– processing time– prevents corrective color / loss of $$$$
Color lifts & deposits– oxidation– do not mix until ready for application
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Info
Sensitive scalp– add pink packet of sugar substitute– color or bleach– contains anti-inflammatory
Porosity– most important factor– determines level depth , strength , application ,
timing
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Info
Developer & color usually mixed in equal parts
2 to 1– double peroxide to color
Application– brush or bottle
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Info
Application begins– most resistant area– gray hair– hot spots