NATURAL HAIR COLORANTS

VIKHYATI PATEL15MCT111

SEMESTER IIADVANCED HAIR AND ORAL CARE COSMETICS

SUBMITTED TO: PROF. NIYATI ACHARYA C.E. I SUBMISSION

CONTENTS• INTRODUCTION

• DEFINITION

• HAIR COLOURING SYSTEMS

• INTRODUCTION TO NATURAL COLOURS

•ARTICIAL COLOURS V/S NATURAL COLOURS

•NATURAL COLOURS

•HAIR DYE FORMULATION

•INGREDIENTS OF MARKETED HERBAL HAIR DYES

•REFERENCE

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INTRODUCTION

LAYERS OF HAIR

• the greater part of hair is made up of insoluble protein material called keratin. Small quantities of water soluble substances are also present such as pentoses, phenols, uric acid, glycogen, glutamic acid, valine and leucine.

• Natural hair colour is the result of two types of melanin pigments, eumelanin which is responsible for the brown and black colours of hair and pheomelanin which creates the orange or blonde hues.

DEFINITION

• Hair dye is usually a substance of synthetic or natural origin, which is use to colour the hair as per the desired shade. The chemistry of hair dyeing depends mainly on the size of the colouring molecule, the swelling of the hair at the time of application, and the basicity of the dye resources.

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HAIR COLOURING SYSTEMS

1. Temporary colouring: Colours which can be removed at first shampooing and are made up of high molecular weight and are deposited on the cuticle and do not penetrate the cortex.

2. Semi-permanent colouring: Colours which can resist several shampooing. They are of low molecular weight and have affinity for keratin and so they can penetrate the cortex; but their fastness is less than the permanent dyes.

3. Permanent colouring: These colours are resistant to shampooing and other external factors such as friction, brushing, light etc.

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INTRODUCTION TO HERBAL COLOURS

• Natural colours are generally obtained from plants and animals.

• So, they are generally less harmful than the synthetic dyes.

• Chemically, they are carotenoids, flavonoids, glycosides or steroids.

• As they are plant derivatives, the uniformity of the colour obtained will be varying according to the cultivation or geographical origin.

• The yield obtained is also less and so the they are less preferred over synthetic dyes.

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ARTIFICIAL COLOURS V/S NATURAL COLOURS

ARTIFICIAL COLOURS NATURAL COLOURS

• Obtained by chemical reactions • Obtained from nature

• Relatively stable • May be less stable than synthetic ones

• Less costly to use • May be more costly to use

• Health concerns • No health concerns

• Processed by various reactions • Processed by physical means

• Consumer acceptability is questionable

• Consumer acceptability is good

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NATURAL COLOURS

HIBISCUS (Rosa sinensis)

• Family: Malvaceae

• Botanical source: flower of the plant

• Description: it is ornamental, large, dark-red coloured flowers.

• Chemical constituents: the important chemical constituents are Taraxeryl acetate, β-sitosterol,campesterol,stigmasterol,cholesterol,ergosterol,lipids. Flowers contain cyaniding diglucoside, flavonoids, vitamins, thiamine, riboflavin,niacin and ascorbic acid.

Traditional use of the flowers and leaves in india include burning them in ghee to produce a black dye used to blacken the eyebrows. It is one of the main ingredients added to many hair care formulations along with brahmi, bhringraj, amla and henna.

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TURMERIC (Curcuma longa)

• Family: Zingiberaceae

• Botanical source: it is derived from the dried rhizomes of Curcuma longa

• Description: Highly branched, yellow to orange, cylindrical, aromatic rhizomes are found.

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• Chemical constituents: Turmeric contains up to 5% essential oils and up to 3% curcumin, a polyphenol. It is active substance of turmeric.

Curcumin

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ANNATTO SEEDS (Bixa orella)

• Family: Bixaceae

• Botanical source: seed of the plant

• Description: the seeds are small, triangular shaped, velvet red with soft texture.

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• Chemical constituents: the red colour is due to several apocarotenoids located in the seed epidermis, of which bixin (9’Z-6,6-diapocarotene-6,6-dioate) is the most important.

Several more carotenoids and apocarotenoids are present such as norbixin. Their total amount varies.

Bixin

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BEET ROOT (Beta vulgaris)

• Family: Chenopodiaceae

• Botanical source: It is the root of the plant

• Description: The beet root is the taproot portion of the beet plant.

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• Chemical constituents: the red/ purple colour of beet root is due to a variety of Betalain pigments. The composition of different Betalain can vary giving breeds of beet root which are yellow or other colour in addition to red colour.

Some of the Betalain are betannin, isobetannin, probetannin, and neobetannin.the red and purple ones are collectively known as betacyanin.

Betalain

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COCHINEAL (Dactylopius coccus)

• Family: Dactylopiidae

• Botanical source: Cochineal is the scale insect in the suborder Sternorrhyncha, from which the crimson coloured dye, carmine is derived.

• Description: Cochineal insects are soft-bodied, flat, oval-shaped scale insects. The females, wingless and about 5 mm (0.20 in) long, cluster on cactus pads. They penetrate the cactus with their beak-like mouthparts and feed on its juices, remaining immobile unless alarmed.

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• Chemical constituents: the colour comes from carminic acid. Cochineal extract’s natural carminic acid content is usually 19-22%.

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HENNA (Lawsonia enermis)

• Family: Lythraceae

• Botanical source: Henna is the flowering plant.

• Description: It is glabrous and multi-branched, with spine-tipped branchlets. The leaves grow opposite each other on the stem.

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• Chemical constituents: Lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-napthoquinone), also known as hennotannic acid, is a red-orange dye present in the leaves of the henna plant.

Lawsone can react via Michael addition with the protein keratin in skin and hair, resulting in strong and permanent stain.

Lawsone absorbs UV light, and aqueous extract can be effective,Sunless tanning sunscreen.

Lawsone

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INDIGO (Indigofera tinctoria)

• Family: Fabaceae

• Botanical source: it is obtained from the leaves of the plant.

• Description: Species of Indigofera are mostly shrubs, though some are small trees or annual or perennial herbs.

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• Chemical constituent: Dye is obtained from the processing of the plants leaves. They are soaked in water and fermented in order to convert the glycoside indican naturally present to the blue dye indigotin.

Indican

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ROSE PETALS (Rosa centifolia)

• Family: Rosaceae

• Botanical source: it is obtained from the petals of the flower.

• Description: They form a group of plants that can be erect shrubs, climbing or trailing with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles. Flowers vary in size and shape and are usually large and showy, in colours ranging from white through yellows and reds.

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• Chemical constituent: Carotenoids produce the yellow colors, anthocyanins the reds, and a mixture of the two the modern oranges.

Α-carotene Β-carotene

Lycopene

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MARIGOLD (Calendulla officinalis)

• Family: Asteraceae

• Botanical source: the flower is obtained from the plant.

• Description: it is a short-lived aromatic herbaceous perennial, with sparsely branched or erect stems.

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• Chemical constituents: different types of carotenoids:neoxanthin, (9´Z)-neoxanthin, violaxanthin, luteoxanthin, auroxanthin, (9´Z)-violaxanthin, flavoxanthin, mutatoxanthin, (9´Z)-antheraxanthin, lutein, (9/9´Z)-lutein, (13/13´Z)-lutein, α-carotene, β-carotene

Neoxanthin

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POMEGRANATE (Punica granatum)

• Family: Lythraceae

• Botanical source: Fruit of the plant

• Description: the pomegranate has multiple spiny branches, and is extremely long-lived

• Natural dye: Yellow dye stuff after process due to cyanin contents.

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CHAMOMILE (Matricaria chamomilla)

• Family: Asteraceae

• Botanical source: Flower of the plant.

• Description: M. chamomilla has a branched, erect and smooth stem, which grows to a height of 15–60 cm (6-24inches). The long and narrow leaves are bipinnate or tripinnate.

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• Chemical constituent: the active ingredients in the flowers is 1,3,4- trihydroxyflavone, known as apigenin.

Apigenin

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MADDER (Rubia cordifolia )

• Family: Rubiaceae

• Botanical source: root of the plant.

• Description: It climbs with tiny hooks at the leaves and stems. The flowers are small, with five pale yellow petals, and appear from June to August, followed by small red to black berries.

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• Chemical constituents: the roots contain the acid. By drying, fermenting or on treatment with acids, this changed to sugar, alizarin and purpurin. Alizarin is the chemical name of the pigment of the anthraquinine group. Red, pink or orange dyestuff for hair colouring.

Alizarin

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MYROBALAN (Terminalia chebula)

• Family: Combretaceae

• Botanical source: fruits of the plant

• Description: It is a medium to large deciduous tree growing to 30 m tall.

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• Chemical constituents: for greenish yellow dye stuff and also acts as natural mordant in hair colouring.

A number of glycosides have been isolated from haritaki, including the triterpenes arjunglucoside I, arjungenin, and the chebulosides I and II. Other constituents include a coumarin conjugated with gallic acids called chebulin, as well as other phenolic compounds including ellagic acid, 2,4-chebulyl-β-D-glucopyranose, chebulinic acid, gallic acid, ethyl gallate, and tannic acid. Chebulic acid is a phenolic acid compound isolated from the ripe fruits. T. chebula also contains terflavin B, a type of tannin, while chebulinic acid is found in the fruits.

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HAIR DYE FORMULATION

Generally, a hair dye include:

• Dye

• Modifiers,

• Antioxidants,

• Alkalizers,

• Oxidants

• Reducing agents

• Vehicle

• Fragrance, And

• Verity Of Other Chemicals Which Gives Different Effect To The Hair Like Softening, Smoothening, Texture, Miniaturization, Etc. Along With Imparting Colour To The Hair.

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• Dye: the herbal colour used

• Modifier: they are used to modify the shades and also stabilize the dye pigment. They do not produce significant colour alone but can modify them when used as primary intermediaries and oxidants. Modifiers bring out colours which are complement to dye pigment, like green or purple.

• Antioxidants: Antioxidants are also added to hair dye to protect it from oxidizing with air. Most common antioxidant used in hair colorant is Vitamin E (α-Tocopherol),Beta Carotene, Vitamin C, Vitamin A, Phytochemicals ,Plant extracts (green tea, grape seed extract, lemongrass, oolong, kiwi), Selenium ,Trace minerals .

• Alkalizers: For pH modification, alkalizers are added, because dye work best in high alkali composition.

• Oxidants: There are basically two types of oxidants used: hydrogen peroxide, when the vehicle is water, and sodium persulfate, when it is a powder.

• Reducing agents: Reducing agents are added to oxidative dye formulations to retard the reaction between bases and reaction modifiers and to prevent the initiation of the reaction in the packaging tube during the storage time.

• Developer: It initiates the colour forming process and creates a longer lasting colour.

• Other ingredients: Along with these, many other ingredients may be incorporated with it, like shampoos, fragrance, chemicals that make the formula creamy, foamy, thick, or contribute to over all action of formula.

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INGREDIENTS OF MARKETED HERBAL HAIR DYES

1. Godrej Nupur Coconut Henna Creame Hair Colour

2. Tints of Nature

3. Herbatint

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Godrej Nupur Coconut Henna Creame Hair Colour

INGREDIENTS ROLE

Aqua Solvent

Coconut oil emollient and solvent

Petrolatum Emollient

Ethanolamine Emulsifiers

Xanthum gum Thickener

Henna leaf powder Colorant

Sodium sulphate pH adjuster

p-phenelyenediamine Modifier

Resorcinol Modifier

Ascorbic acid Antioxidants

Sodium sulphite Reducing agent, preservative

Alkyltrimethylammonium bromide

Antistatic agent, conditioner

INGREDIENTS ROLE

Dimethicone Anti foaming agent, conditioner

p-aminophenol and m-aminophenol

Colour modifier

Phenyl methyl pyrazolone Modifier

2,4-disaminophenoxy ethanol HCl

Modifier

N-N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulphate

Imparts colour

Methyl paraben and propyl paraben

Preservative

CI 19140 Yellow 5 and yellow 5 lake

CI 61570 Green 5

• Developer

INGREDIENTS ROLE

Aqua Solvent

Hydrogen peroxide Oxidizer

Cetyl alcohol Emollient, emulsifier

Glyceryl stearate Emulsifiers

PEG-100 stearate Emulsifier

Perfume Fragrance

Tetrasodiumpyrophosphate pH adjuster

EDTA Chelating agent

Disodium salt Viscosity modifier

Orthophosphoric acid pH adjuster

SLS Surfactant

Sodium stannate Stabilizer

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Tints of Nature

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Tints of Nature

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Herbatint

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Herbatint

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REFERENCE

• http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/search/node/

• www.herbalremedies.com

• Simone Aparecida da França, Michelli Ferrera Dario *, Victoria Brigatto Esteves, André Rolim Baby and Maria Valéria Robles Velasco ,Review on Types of Hair Dye and Their Mechanisms of action, Cosmetics 2015, 2, 110-126

• J.B.Wilkinson and R.J.Moore, Harry's Cosmeticology, Chemical Publishing Newyork Seventh edition

• http://www.annmariegianni.com/7-ways-to-color-your-hair-naturally

• http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIngredients/Products/ucm143075.htm

• Wenninger, J.A.; Canterbery, R.C.; Mcewen, G.N.J. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 8th ed.; Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association: Washington, DC, USA, 2000.

• G. E. Trease and W. C. Evans; Pharmacognosy Cassell and Collier Macmillan Publishers Ltd., Eleventh edition

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