mix magazine september 2012

september 2012 $4.99

portland, oregon / september 2012 Eat • Drink • Get Out • Get Together mIXpdX.Com

Harvest Time

Gluten-free beer • best pies in portlandWhere to eat in san francisco • oranGe Wine

cooking lessons

learn how to grill vegetables

from the chefs at oxHearty vegetarian

meals on a tight budget

What it’s really like to be a farmer / Page 48

turning pickling into a party / Page 40

Harvest TimeHarvest TimeHarvest TimeHarvest TimeHarvest Time

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editor’s note

It wasn’t until I started my own vegetable garden that I realized just what a force of nature the end-of-summer harvest can be. I planted my seeds and starts in late May, and then waited, and watched and waited some more — much more — until, finally, by the end of August, everything was ripe and ready all at once.

Trouble is, I had 40 pounds of tomatoes to contend with, plus overflowing baskets of eggplants, peppers and zucchini. My water-bath canner got a serious workout that summer, and I didn’t have to go shop-ping for weeks. But prepping, cooking and processing all that bounty was like having another full-time job. As I lifted yet another rack of searing-hot jars out of the boiling pot at 10 o’clock at night, I swore I’d never plant another seed again.

Of course, I didn’t stick to that plan. By next spring I had forgotten all about the steam burns and the aching feet and the bleary-eyed exhaustion, and remembered

only how cool it was to walk out into the backyard and pluck dinner from the vine. I’ve since learned to stagger the plantings a bit better, but when the weather is as tricky as ours, it still takes all summer before the harvest can really begin. It’s just the way of things in the Pacific Northwest. And though it can be a cause for frustration, it’s also a cause for celebration, no doubt about it.

As our all-too-short summer winds to a close this month, our bountiful harvest

means we can say goodbye with gusto (not to mention pesto, perhaps slathered over grilled zucchini, or maybe drizzled over planked salmon?). So, to celebrate this beautiful, bittersweet time of year, we’ve packed this issue with stories grounded in the agricultural jackpot we call home.

Want to be sure you get every issue of MIX? S u b S c r i b e ! 10 issues for $20. Go to MIXpdX.coM or call 503-221-8240.

Danielle Centoni, editor [email protected]

PHOTOGRAPH by mike DAvis

Correction: In the July issue of MIX, we misidentified two menu items at 442 Soccer Bar. The flatbread is Bosnian style and the sausages contain lamb and beef, not pork. We regret the errors.

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LABOR OF LOVE: Afton Field Farm’s Tyler and Alicia Jones reveal what it’s really like to run a farm / page 48pHOtOGrApH bY mike dAvis

starters11 Japanese custard, cool hot sauce, great books, local flour, black salt, and more

eat16 TOp TEn: Our favorite pies for every craving ��21 GOOd FOR YOu: Eat like a peasant ��25 TEchniquE: Grilling vegetables with the Dentons

drink 27 WinE: A different kind of orange juice

30 BEER: Gluten-free beer comes into its own ��

get out33 EAT hERE: San Francisco’s thriving Mission district � �38 cALEndAR: What to do and where to go this month

get together40 pickLinG pARTY with the founders of Yolo Colorhouse ��46 kiTchEn: A small but swoon-worthy space on Sauvie Island�_____

56 i.d. Get to know the brains behind Feast

miX is 10 issues a year! it’s easy to subscribe online — go to mixpdx.cOm and click on “subscribe.” You can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixpdx.cOm, so get clicking and start eating.

Appetizers �• Harvest Time Chawan Mushi, p11�

entrees �• Spanish-Style Chickpeas and Greens

With Crusty Croutons, p23 �

Components And side dishes�• Chapons, p23 �• Grilled Artichokes, p25 �• Sautéed Padrón Peppers With Kala

Namak Salt, p12�• Yolo Pickles, p45 �

drinks �• Pickling Party Bloody Mary, p45

Photographer Mike Davis has worked at the White House, National Geographic magazine and several of the country’s leading newspapers, including The Oregonian. A longtime contributor to MIX, he now calls upstate New York home. But before he left Portland, he documented life on Afton Field Farm for over three years, and you can see the results on P age 48. “Spending time at Afton Field Farm was like going back in time, to my grandfather’s Nebraska farm, scents and all,” he says. “Grandpa used some of the same practices as Tyler and Alicia and raised close to the same animal menagerie. Making pictures was just a bonus to spending time with the Joneses and their interns.

6 MIXpdX.coM septemBer 2012 septemBer 2012 MIXpdX.coM 7

Photographer Aubrie Pick was born and raised in Los Angeles before moving to San Francisco 10 years ago to attend the San Francisco Art Institute. For this issue of MIX she turned her well-trained eye toward her own neighborhood for our Eat Here story on Page 33. “I’ve called the Mission home since 2005,” says Pick, “and I love nothing more than strolling with my dog to Four Barrel for my morning coffee fix and heading to Dolores Park to watch her romp with the other dogs.” Some of her other clients include California Home + Design Magazine, 7x7 Magazine, SPIN and Eater.

For this issue, food writer matthew Card showed us how to cook cheap food with extravagant flavors (Page 21), and to do so he didn’t have to look farther than his own home kitchen. His version of “peasant” food is just the sort of stuff he feeds his family nightly — except when his kids balk at yet another night of legumes. Being something of a cheapskate cook, he relishes the challenge of bringing out the best in pedestrian ingredients like beans, greens and stale bread. In addition to contributing to MIX magazine, Matthew is a contributing editor to Cook’s Illustrated and has written for Bicycling magazine and Men’s Journal, among others.

where to find the reCipes in this issUe:

online extrAs At mixpdx.Com Get the recipes for Adrian Hale’s

fluffy whole wheat freezer Biscuits, Ken Forkish’s overnight straight pizza dough,Tamar Adler’s Garlicky leaf, stem and Core pesto, and Matthew Card’s lentil stew with Cumin and pomegranate molasses

� Find out where to buy our favorite

orange wines

index

other contrIbutIng WrIters:Betsy Amster, GrAnt BUtler, JoAn Cirillo, kAtherine Cole, John foyston, Ashley GArtlAnd, AdriAn J.s. hAle, ivy mAnninG, deenA priChep, lAUrA B. rUssell, AndreA sloneCker

other contrIbutIng photographers/Illustrators:linColn BArBoUr, thomAs Boyd, reed dArmon, ross williAm hAmilton, Beth nAkAmUrA, motoyA nAkAmUrA, rAndy l. rAsmUssen

contributorsWhen we needed an expert to show us around San Francisco’s thriving Mission district (Page 33), we knew Anne Zimmerman was it. The San Francisco editor of BlackBoard Eats is a resident of the ’hood, and spends her weekends trolling its streets, fueled by coffee, pastries and snacks at Local’s Corner. A former Portland resident and Linfield College graduate, Zimmerman is also the author of “An Extravagant Hunger: The Passionate Years of M.F.K. Fisher” (Counterpoint, 2012).

ON THE COVER: A twice-fried artichoke showered in slivers of mint and nepitella at the Roman-inspired Locanda restaurant in San Francisco. PHOTOGRAPH BY AuBRIE PICK

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Appetizers �• Harvest Time Chawan Mushi, p11�

entrees �• Spanish-Style Chickpeas and Greens

With Crusty Croutons, p23 �

Components And side dishes�• Chapons, p23 �• Grilled Artichokes, p25 �• Sautéed Padrón Peppers With Kala

Namak Salt, p12�• Yolo Pickles, p45 �

drinks �• Pickling Party Bloody Mary, p45

Photographer Mike Davis has worked at the White House, National Geographic magazine and several of the country’s leading newspapers, including The Oregonian. A longtime contributor to MIX, he now calls upstate New York home. But before he left Portland, he documented life on Afton Field Farm for over three years, and you can see the results on P age 48. “Spending time at Afton Field Farm was like going back in time, to my grandfather’s Nebraska farm, scents and all,” he says. “Grandpa used some of the same practices as Tyler and Alicia and raised close to the same animal menagerie. Making pictures was just a bonus to spending time with the Joneses and their interns.

6 MIXpdX.coM septemBer 2012 septemBer 2012 MIXpdX.coM 7

Photographer Aubrie Pick was born and raised in Los Angeles before moving to San Francisco 10 years ago to attend the San Francisco Art Institute. For this issue of MIX she turned her well-trained eye toward her own neighborhood for our Eat Here story on Page 33. “I’ve called the Mission home since 2005,” says Pick, “and I love nothing more than strolling with my dog to Four Barrel for my morning coffee fix and heading to Dolores Park to watch her romp with the other dogs.” Some of her other clients include California Home + Design Magazine, 7x7 Magazine, SPIN and Eater.

For this issue, food writer matthew Card showed us how to cook cheap food with extravagant flavors (Page 21), and to do so he didn’t have to look farther than his own home kitchen. His version of “peasant” food is just the sort of stuff he feeds his family nightly — except when his kids balk at yet another night of legumes. Being something of a cheapskate cook, he relishes the challenge of bringing out the best in pedestrian ingredients like beans, greens and stale bread. In addition to contributing to MIX magazine, Matthew is a contributing editor to Cook’s Illustrated and has written for Bicycling magazine and Men’s Journal, among others.

where to find the reCipes in this issUe:

online extrAs At mixpdx.Com Get the recipes for Adrian Hale’s

fluffy whole wheat freezer Biscuits, Ken Forkish’s overnight straight pizza dough,Tamar Adler’s Garlicky leaf, stem and Core pesto, and Matthew Card’s lentil stew with Cumin and pomegranate molasses

� Find out where to buy our favorite

orange wines

index

other contrIbutIng WrIters:Betsy Amster, GrAnt BUtler, JoAn Cirillo, kAtherine Cole, John foyston, Ashley GArtlAnd, AdriAn J.s. hAle, ivy mAnninG, deenA priChep, lAUrA B. rUssell, AndreA sloneCker

other contrIbutIng photographers/Illustrators:linColn BArBoUr, thomAs Boyd, reed dArmon, ross williAm hAmilton, Beth nAkAmUrA, motoyA nAkAmUrA, rAndy l. rAsmUssen

contributorsWhen we needed an expert to show us around San Francisco’s thriving Mission district (Page 33), we knew Anne Zimmerman was it. The San Francisco editor of BlackBoard Eats is a resident of the ’hood, and spends her weekends trolling its streets, fueled by coffee, pastries and snacks at Local’s Corner. A former Portland resident and Linfield College graduate, Zimmerman is also the author of “An Extravagant Hunger: The Passionate Years of M.F.K. Fisher” (Counterpoint, 2012).

ON THE COVER: A twice-fried artichoke showered in slivers of mint and nepitella at the Roman-inspired Locanda restaurant in San Francisco. PHOTOGRAPH BY AuBRIE PICK


printed on recycled paper

VoLUME 6 / ISSUE 7mixpdx.comDANIELLE CENTONI / [email protected] LINDA SHANKWEILER / cREATIVE [email protected] DARMON / [email protected] BENSON, COLIN POWERS, AMY REIfENRATH / copY EdIToRS

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Mother's Bistro • Nostrana • Olympic Provisions • Ox • Paley's Place • PUBLIC (NYC) • Tertulia (NYC) • The Country Cat

Wildwood Restaurant • A to Z Wineworks • Anne Amie Vineyards • Argyle Winery • BergstROm Wines

Boedecker Cellars • Chehalem • Domaine Serene • Durant Vineyards • Elk Cove Vineyards • Erath • Matello Wines

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In a bowl, combine the dashi broth, eggs, soy sauce, mirin, salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into small soup bowls or teacups.

Divide the vegetables among the cups (it’s OK if they sink to the bottom). Cover the cups tightly with plastic wrap.

Set up a steamer basket in a large pot with enough water to come up to, but not touching the bottom of the steamer. Bring the water to a simmer, carefully set the cups onto the steamer with tongs, cover pot and steam until the custard is just set on the edges and still a little jiggly in the center, about 16 to 18 minutes. Remove

cups with tongs, carefully remove the plastic, and sprinkle with scallion and chile oil. Serve warm.

Note: You can find instant dashi bouillon packets at Asian markets like Fubon and Anzen.

— From Ivy Manning

Japanese chefs have a way of making the simplest ingredients stunning. Take chawan mushi, the savory steamed egg and dashi broth custard dotted with seafood and/or vegetables. Steamed to order in delicate little cups, the silky, jiggly, barely set custard appears as a special at local restau-rants like Mirakutei, Koji Osakaya and Biwa. But when a craving strikes, we make it at home with in-season veg-etables like roasted squash, fresh corn and wild mushrooms.

— Ivy Manning

Harvest Time Chawan Mushi SeRveS 4 AS A FIRST COuRSe

2 cups prepared dashi broth, cooled (see note)

2 large eggs, beaten 2 tablespoons soy sauce 3 tablespoons mirin (sweet

rice cooking wine) ¼ teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup seasonal vegetables (such as

finely diced roasted winter squash, raw corn kernels and thinly sliced wild mushrooms)

1 scallion, thinly slicedChile oil (optional)

Cook THiS: Savory Japanese custard

StarterS

PhOTOgRAPh BY ROSS wIllIAM hAMIlTOn

12 MIXpdX.coM SEPTEMBER 2012 SEPTEMBER 2012 MIXpdX.coM 13

starters, cont.

I went to The Meadow in search of the perfect salt for eggs. A clerk handed me a black salt from India called kala namak. I opened the jar and inhaled a whiff of

sulfur. I bought it on faith, used it on scrambled eggs the

next day, and retired my regular salt shaker, overcome by the urge to sprinkle kala namak on everything. Tofu? Check. vegetables — yes, especially sautéed padrón peppers, which seem to have been made for it. In India, kala na-

mak is used in fruit chaat, a fruit salad sold on street

corners. Salt is an inexpensive indulgence — at least kala namak

is. Buy a small bottle and see what foods you can subtly transform. The Meadow, 3731 N. Mississippi Ave., 503-288-4633, atthemeadow.com

— Betsy AmsterPhOTOgRAPhY BY ROSS wIllIAM hAMIlTOn

Cook thiS: Padrón PePPerS With kala namak SaltSautéed Padrón Peppers With kala Namak Salt

heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. when hot, add a pint of padrón peppers and sauté until softened and black in spots, about three minutes. Remove from heat and drizzle with balsamic vinegar. when the sizzling stops, remove to a plate covered in a paper towel to absorb some of the oil. Sprinkle liberally with kala namak salt and eat immediately, ideally with your fingers.

— Betsy Amster

BookshelfFlouR WaTER SalT YEaST

Although most Portlanders are content letting Ken’s Artisan Bakery bake our breads and make our pizzas, there are those out there who’d love to take a crack at re-creating Ken Forkish’s work. For them, there’s “Flour water Salt Yeast” (Ten Speed, $35), his new cookbook due on store shelves this month. loaded with photos, precise techniques and technical jargon, it’s a bread-baker’s dream. There’s even a recipe for his famed “3-kilo boule.” But if, like me, you’re inept at gluten-wrangling, there’s the pizza chapter — specifi-cally the Overnight Straight Pizza Dough recipe. It’s tailor-made for busy people who still have a little ambition left at the end of the day to forgo the premade stuff and make their own. — Danielle Centoni

oNliNE EXTRa: Get the recipe for ken Forkish’s overnight Straight Pizza dough at MiXPdX.CoM

aN EvERlaSTiNg MEal In “An everlasting Meal” (Scribner, 2011), Tamar Adler, a former edi-tor at harper’s Magazine and Chez Panisse alum, leads us away from a cookbook landscape oversaturated with hype and chef-y techniques and takes us calmly into the heart of the home kitchen. She plops us down with a plain old knife and a modest pot and encourages us to do with what we have. She sits quietly with us, peeling vegetables or making stock, joking about the interchangeability of polenta and grits. She becomes a friend you want to cook with. There are recipes, but they are accessories to the meditations on cooking that precede them. we learn how to boil veggies, make mayonnaise and braise tender roasts. we learn how to turn accidentally burned vegetables into baba ghanouj. More than anything, though, we learn how to get back in the kitchen and savor our time there. Adler makes us long to get our hands dirty and our stomachs full. — Adrian J.S. Hale

oNliNE EXTRa: Get the recipe for tamar adler’s Garlicky leaf, Stem and Core Pesto at MiXPdX.CoM

muSt have: bormioli GlaSS CruetIf you loathe fumbling with the greasy cap on the olive oil bottle, but don’t want to sacrifice the oil’s freshness with an open spout, you’ll love the airtight twist-open-and-close top and the drip-free pour spout on the Bormioli Rocco Quattro Stagioni glass cruet from Italy. It’s the perfect solution. And if you like to buy olive oil in bulk, the 17-ounce container is just the right size to hold a few weeks’ worth of oil for easier handling. we found the cruet for $8.50 at Fino In Fondo in McMinnville and filled it with the salume-ria’s fruity California Arbequina olive oil, sold in bulk for $9.99 per 500 ml. Available at Fino In Fondo, Kitchen Ka-boodle and online at amazon.com.

—Joan Cirillo


Hillsboro area Restaurants

Reedville CafeA great place for family and friends to meet since 1950. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and happy hour daily. Terrific appetizers (like our famous Reedville Rings) and deli-cious desserts baked in-house.

7575 SE TV Hwy, Hillsboro OR 97123503.649.4643reedvillecafe.com

shop local ~ shop Hillsboro

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Longbottom Coffee and TeaTucked in the industrial district of Hills-boro, our café serves fresh roasted cof-fee as well as breakfast and lunch daily. M-F, 6:00 am – 3:30 pm. Weekends, 7:30 am – 2:30 pm.

4893 NW 235th AvenueHillsboro, OR 97124503-924-4470

Syun IzakayaThe family-owned, award-winning place in Oregon for Japanese pub-style dishes, top-notch sushi and sashimi, and superb sake.

209 NE Lincoln St.Hillsboro, OR 97214503-640-3131www.syun-izakaya.com

704 NW 21st Ave.Portland, OR503.206.5916

3312 SE Belmont St.Portland, OR503.235.0146

W W W . D K P O R T L A N D . C O M

SENW

Dick’s Kitchen is proud to serve Carman Ranch 100%grass-fed beef burgers. They’re lower in cholesterol& calories and higher in vitamins and nutrients.

IELSEN’SJewelers Since 1892N

503.234.1614825 NE Multnomah, Suite 280Lloyd Center Tower BuildingAcross skybridge from Nordstrom

uSe thiS GreenWilloW FarmS Flour

It’s easy to want to eat local when it comes to produce — it’s fresher, so it tastes better. Plus, you’re supporting a local industry. But what about dry goods like flour? when it comes to greenwillow Farms, the same holds true. The family-run milling operation grinds its own Oregon-grown wheat at its small Brownsville mill using a stone grind-er. This cold milling process doesn’t expose the grain to heat or moisture, preserving the grain’s satisfyingly mellow, slightly sweet flavor. Best of all, greenwillow grinds wheat on Thursday and it’s in your hands at the market on Saturday, so it’s very farm-

to-table, or shall we say, wheat berry-to-biscuit? All sewn up in charming (and reusable!) cloth sacks, the bread and pastry flours can be found at the PSu farmers market and People’s Co-op, with plans for more retail locations in Portland soon.

— Adrian J.S. Hale


starters, cont.

eat thiSbuShWaCker

hot SauCe The world doesn’t need another hot sauce. At least that’s what we thought before we tried Bushwacker. Smoky, tangy and fiery, it’s one of the few sauces that actually has a balance of flavor in addition to a searing jolt of heat. Made in north-east Portland from roasted serrano peppers, Bushwacker lacks a cheeky

name and cool logo, but as Mama said, it’s what’s inside that counts. And in this case what’s inside the bottle is

a condiment so lip-smacking and versatile, it has earned a permanent place on our table. bushwackerhot-sauce.com

— Danielle Centoni

online eXtra: Get adrian’s foolproof recipe for Fluffy Whole Wheat Freezer biscuits at miXPdX.Com

PhOTOgRAPhY BY ROSS wIllIAM hAMIlTOn

order thiSJiGSaW GraPhiCS

Jar labelS Slapping a fuddy-duddy canning label on your jar of nectarine, kaffir lime and ginger preserves is akin to throwing a fleece hoodie over your Prada dress. Do your gourmet efforts justice with artful labels from Portland’s Jigsaw graphics. Available in five designs, the $20 kits come with 24 stickers as well as 12 tags and can accept a permanent or a dry-erase marker — perfect for those who store their bulk-bin dry goods in canning jars. Jigsawgraphics.com

— Danielle Centoni

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16 MIXpdX.coM august 2012 august 2012 MIXpdX.coM 17

EATTen pies for 10 cravingsThere’s something about September that has us craving pie — more than usual, that is. Maybe it’s the back-to-school frenzy making us feel nostalgic (or in need of serious comfort). Maybe it’s the anticipation of fall’s holiday tables, coupled with the happy realization that swimsuit season is over. Either way, the Portland area is packed with bakers happy to oblige. To get a handle on the region’s by-the-slice offerings, we came up with a list of categories, and our favorite bites in each.

Creamy: Banana Cream at Random Order We all know Random Order makes great pie, and lots of it. It’s pretty much all they do. Although the cafe has a fervent following for its caramel apple pie, it’s the banana cream that makes us swoon. The crust is flaky and never soggy, custardy filling is smooth and creamy without being gloppy or starchy, and the banana flavor is spot-on. But what seals the deal is the thorough dusting of cinnamon over the billowing whipped cream topping. It’s that hit of earthy spice that brings everything together. 1800 N.E. Alberta St., 971-340-6995; randomordercoffee.com

—DAnIEllE CEnTOnI

Crust: Bakeshop Dare I proclaim that Kim Boyce, author of the James Beard Award-winning baking book “Good to the Grain,” constructs the best pie crust in town? Stop by her incon-spicuous treasure trove, Bakeshop, and taste for yourself. Incessantly brittle on the out-side, with an ever-so-subtle tenderness, her half-moon-shaped hand pies are remarkably crunchy on all sides, never soggy-bottomed. They’re left unsealed, allowing the seasonal fruit filling to ooze out just a bit, transform-ing into a candy-like caramelized goo. These make a heavenly breakfast with a latte from Case Study Coffee next door. 5351 N.E. Sandy Blvd., 503-946-8884, bakeshoppdx.com

— AnDREA SlOnECKER

Fruit: tart Cherry at Lauretta Jean’s This is the pie that I wish my grandma would have made. It’s certainly nostalgia-inducing, with an old-timey tart cherry filling that’s thickened just enough to keep the buttery, flaky crust nice and crisp. A good amount of salt, and just the right

balance of sweet and sour, make this one of the most solid slices of pie in town. Ask for it to be warmed, and don’t pass on the option to add a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. When cherries are out of season, the apple pie is hands-down delicious. For a pie-and-coffee break downtown, stop into owner Kate McMillen’s tiny shop, which she shares with fellow farmers-market upstart Cafe Velo. Her second location in the old Pix space on Southeast Division is slated to open this month. And look for her selling her lattice-topped pies at the PSU Farmers Market come Saturday morning. 600 S.W. Pine St., laurettajean.com


Midnight snack: snickers pie at Banning’s Restaurant & Pie House It’s 2 a.m. and you’re hit with a sudden, relentless urge to consume a honkin’ piece of pie. Where do you go? Banning’s, baby. Walk into the family-owned restaurant and behold the impressive display of pies in the tall glass cabinet, settle into a spacious vinyl booth, and let your mind wander as the Denny’s-like space conjures up memories of late-night road-trip pit stops. Most of the made-from-scratch pies won’t win any awards, but they’re tasty. The Snickers pie, however, is downright delicious, and perfect

Random Order

PhOtOgRaPh by ROss william hamiltOn

banning’s Restaurant & Pie house

PhOtOgRaPh by Reed daRmOn

18 MIXpdX.coM sEPtEMBER 2012 sEPtEMBER 2012 MIXpdX.coM 19

eat, cont.

for those gluttonous after-midnight crav-ings. It’s peanutty and rich, almost like cheesecake, with gobs of caramel and nuts from real Snickers bars baked right in. 11477 S.W. Pacific Hwy., Tigard, 503-244-2558, banningsrestaurant.com

— DAnIEllE CEnTOnI

gluten-Free: Crave Bake shop Take one bite of the magical hand pies from Crave Bake Shop and you’ll seri-ously question whether you’re actually eating something gluten-free. As with any pie, it’s all about the crust, and this one unabashedly highlights the butter. With a rich flavor and just the right amount of flakiness, the crust is perfection on its own, but it’s the bounty inside that takes it over the top. Fillings change with the seasons, and when the time has passed for sum-mer’s stellar blueberry pie, the spiced apple (seasoned with cinnamon, ginger, carda-mom, nutmeg and a touch of clove) and roasted pear, drizzled with house-made salted caramel, are perfect showcases for the flavors of autumn. 460 Fifth St., Lake Oswego, 503-212-2979, cravebakeshop.com

— lAURA B. RUSSEll

Handheld: seasonal Hand Pie at Baker & spice One would expect to find a decent slice of pie at a bakery owned by the co-author of a cookbook called “Rustic Fruit Desserts,” but at Julie Richardson’s Baker & Spice, pies come in two forms: those that require a fork and those that do not. Slices from whole pies are served on weekends (and you can get a whole pie by special order anytime), but throughout the rest of the week stop in for a hand-held fruit pie with a crust similar to croissants that shatters into flaky crumbs with each bite — rustic fruit dessert indeed. The fillings are seasonal, so in September watch for late summer berries, and then apples as the weather cools. 6330 S.W. Capitol Hwy.; 503-244-7573; bakerandspicebakery.com


savory: Empanadas at Ox Restaurant We may consider pie to be as American as, well, never mind, but the fact is that many countries fill flaky pastry with sweet or savory fillings. Take the empanada, the pie pocket of Spanish- and Portuguese-speaking countries. One of the best versions is found at Ox Restaurant.

Co-owner Gabrielle Denton took her Ec-uadorian heritage into consideration when she developed her empanada recipe, using butter to perfect the rich yet crisp-tender crust. They’re deep-fried to order, with an option of two flavorful fillings: traditional picadillo (beef, green olive and raisin) or vegetarian, a mix of grilled corn, poblanos, potatoes and fontina on a recent visit. 2225 N.E. MLK Blvd., 503-284-3366, oxpdx.com


Vegan: Chocolate Cream at Back to Eden Bakery Boutique The beauty of this chocolate cream pie is the rich, silky filling. But to make it without eggs, the stealth bakers at this all-vegan outpost employ silken tofu, along with soy-milk, maple syrup and deep, dark choco-late. The delicate whipped topping is made out of coconut cream, sweetened with a little powdered sugar and vanilla. Each single-serving pie features a flaky, hand-rolled, gluten-free crust. It may be vegan,

PhOtOgRaPhy by mOtOya nakamuRa (tOP), and ROss william hamiltOn (abOve)

Ox Restaurant

back to eden bakery boutique

mar ke tp laceH I L L S D A L E

Hillsdale Farmers MarketSW Portland’s year-round source for produce, cheeses, meats, eggs and more. Open Sundays 10am-2pm in the Wilson High-Rieke Elementary parking lot,1405 SW Vermont St. Parking entranceat SW Capitol Hwy and SW Sunset Blvd. Weekly cooking demonstrations through November 18. Debit, credit and EBT cards accepted. Market runs weekly May 6-Nov 18, Dec 2, 16.

http://hillsdalefarmersmarket.com503.475.6555

Tre BoneTre Bone offers high quality pet products and natural, healthy pet foods, treats and toys at affordable prices. Local and alternatIve pet healthcare products available. With so many wonderful pets in need of a good home, we are a proud supporter of local adoption.

6235 SW Capitol Hwy.503.265.8060www.trebone.net

shop local ~ shop hillsdale town center on sw capitol hwy.

Shop • Sip • Dine

Food FrontFood Front Cooperative Grocery in Hillsdale offers the most delicious and fresh local groceries in town. From farm-direct, local and organic produce to artisan breads, cheeses, microbrews and fi ne wines, you’re sure to leave with a basket full of unforgettable local fl avor. Food Front’s deli serves up homemade sandwiches, soups & sides, and the full service meat & seafood counter offers high quality sustainable meat cuts and an array of wild caught sustainable seafood. Eat Colorfully, Live Vibrantly at Food Front Co-Op. Open 8am-9pm Daily.

6344 SW Capitol Hwy.503.546.6559 www.foodfront.coop

Hillsdale Eye CareHillsdale Eye Care is dedicated to providing personalized eye care based on the patient’s individual needs. We enjoy working with patients requiring demanding visual needs such as sports vision, diffi cult to fi t contact lens (bifocal or astigmatism) and children’s eye care.Call for appointment,open 6 days a week.

1522 SW Sunset Blvd.503.672.9190www.hillsdaleeye.com

Paloma ClothingA unique and upbeat collection of clothing, handcrafted jewelry and accessories for travel, work and play. Featuring local and USA made products. Exceptional and thoughtful service.

6316 SW. Capitol Hwy.503.246.3417www.palomaclothing.com

Korkage Wine Bar& ShopEnjoy live music and wine tasting in an intimate setting, featuring local boutique wineries and selected picks from around the World. The Korkage Chef, former instructor at a top hospitality school, offers gourmet small bite and wine pairings and expert wine consults - you can be confi dent you’ll fi nd just the right bottle for any event!

6351 SW Capitol Hwy.503.293.3146www.korkagewine.com

Paella FeastEscape to Spain right here in SW Portland! Enjoy a delightful evening of live music, wine, tapas and an authentic paella feast created by award winning chef Greg Higgins. He uses a pan 5 feet in diameter, making the cooking a show in itself! Dessert by Baker & Spice. Proceeds benefi t Hillsdale Main Street as well as Neighborhood House, committed to helping families in need. Event held September 15 in Hillsdale. For tickets go to www.bit.ly/PaellaPDX or call 503-896-9211

20 MIXpdX.coM sEPtEMBER 2012

eat, cont.

but it still feels like a splurge. 2217 N.E. Alberta St., 503-477-5022, backtoedenbakery.com

— GRAnT BUTlER

Pot Pie: Beef and stout at Pacific Pie Company Pacific Pie Company’s savory pot pies are inspired by the land Down Under, where such pies are as commonplace as burgers. These impossibly flaky renditions, however, are anything but ordinary. In the Beef & Stout, rich, tangy, stout-based brown gravy binds ground beef with tender chunks of carrots and potatoes, all encased in delectable crust. The shear breadth of pie fillings here — both the sweet and savory varieties — is impressive. Aussie native Chris Powell and wife Sarah Curtis-Fawley run this full-service pie cafe where you can enjoy your hot pie with a salad and a beer, or go take-and-bake style with a good selection of frozen pies, too. 1520 S.E. Seventh Ave., 503-381-6157, pacificpieco.com


Nutty: Pendleton Pie at the Honey Pot Pecan pies often taste like one big sugar bomb. not so at The Honey Pot’s shiny, silver trailer of treats in the Good Food Here pod. Although the rotating cast of fruit pies can hit or miss, the Pendleton Pie dependably serves up a multitude of yumminess in each bite — rich, high-quality chocolate, lots of toasty pecans, and a generous pour of Pendleton whiskey all baked up in a chocolate shortbread-like crust. 4290 S.E. Belmont Ave., 541-317-2951, thehoneypotbakery.com

— DAnIEllE CEnTOnI

PhOtOgRaPh by mOtOya nakamuRaOR CCB # 1663; WAReg # NEILKCI 18702 © Neil Kelly 2012

Financing provided by

Portland 503.262.6303

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eat / good for you

Cook like a (vegetarian) peasant By matthew cardphotography By ross william hamilton

ith the farmers markets of late summer overflow-ing with produce, “meatless Mondays” are awfully easy

this time of year. But since I’m a cook on a tight budget, meat doesn’t make nightly appearances on my table the rest of the year, either. We pretty much eat like peasants at my house — albeit well-fed and happy ones.

I’ve found that the trick to cooking cheaply — and healthfully — is to make vegetable- and legume-based meals that are flavorful and complex enough that meat isn’t missed. Two cases in point: Spanish-style chickpeas with greens and chapons (large, crusty, super-delicious croutons) and a North African-spiced lentil stew sharpened with pomegranate molasses.

W

Spanish-Style Chickpeas and Greens With Crusty Croutons serves 4

this will provide you with more chickpeas than required of the dish, but they will store for up to one week — in their cooking liquid — and can be used in soups, salads, sautés and spreads like hummus. chard or kale can be substituted for the spinach, though it should be blanched until tender and squeezed dry before being added to the beans. For a nonvegetarian version, garnish with sautéed spanish chorizo. and if you don’t have the time to prepare the chapons, garnish with a handful of chopped, toasted hazelnuts and serve with a baguette.


good for you cont.

For the first dish, I use dried chickpeas that I soak overnight in salted water then simmer with a few aromatics until tender. Cooked this way, the beans taste better and have a better texture than canned beans, plus the cooking liquid becomes flavorful enough to use as a replace-ment for vegetable or chicken broth. I flavor the chickpeas with a soffritto of onions, peppers and loads of garlic spiked with paprika and saffron. (If you must add meat, feel free to garnish with cubed bits of sautéed Spanish chorizo — impossibly addic-tive stuff.)

The lentil stew starts off a pretty classic affair, but then I spike it with cumin, caraway, chile and garlic — essentially the flavors of harissa, the North African condiment. A combi-nation of sun-dried tomatoes, sumac and pomegranate molasses adds a particularly bright, almost fruity flavor to counter the earthiness. The dish is something of a blank slate and can be gussied up with all kinds of garnishes. From braised greens to lab-neh (yogurt cheese), there’s not much that doesn’t taste good piled on top.

ChiCkPEaS:

8 sprigs fresh thyme 4 sprigs fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley 1 pound dried chickpeas, sorted through and soaked

overnight in salted water 1 onion 1 large carrot, quartered 1 celery rib (or 2 fennel stalks), quartered Garlic bulb, top ¼ sliced off to expose the cloves Bay leaf Salt

STEW: ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 red onion, minced 1 large red bell pepper, minced Salt Pinch saffron (optional) 4 cloves garlic, sliced thin 2 teaspoons paprika (regular or smoked) 6 ounces baby spinach (or 2 bunches spinach, washed

and chopped) 2 ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped coarse 4 green onions, root end and tops trimmed, sliced on bias Chapons (recipe follows) 1 lemon, cut into wedges (for serving) Hot sauce

For the beans: tie thyme and parsley sprigs together with kitchen twine; add to large dutch oven with remaining ingredients and large pinch salt. cover with several inches of water. Bring to simmer and remove and discard foam. reduce heat to low, partially cover, and cook until beans are tender, 1 to 2 hours. allow beans to cool in cooking liquid. discard bundled herbs and vegetables; reserve garlic.

For the stew: add olive oil, onion, pepper, large pinch salt and saffron (if using) to a large dutch oven set over medium-high heat. cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are beginning to brown and dramatically reduced in volume, 8 to 12 minutes. add garlic and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. stir in paprika and cook until deepened in color and fragrant, about 1 minute. add 3 cups cooked chickpeas, 1 to 1½ cups cooking liquid and bring to simmer. reduce heat to low and cook until thickened and flavors have blended, about 10 minutes.

meanwhile, place spinach in microwave-safe bowl, cover, and cook until just wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. allow to cool, squeeze out excess liquid, chop and add to chickpeas. taste and adjust seasoning with salt. squeeze the cooked garlic cloves from the beans into the stew. add tomatoes and green onions, and serve over chapons accompanied by lemon wedges and hot sauce.

Chapons consider these oversized croutons. Because they have been soaked, they have a uniquely crisp-chewy texture and almost custardy interior (the starches gelatinize once heated). while they provide contrast to all kinds of soups and stews, they also add body to salads (think panzanella).

the recipe is purposefully vague. any style of hearty bread or baguette works for chapons. when soaking the bread, test it frequently for hydration. the bread should be just soft and pliable, far shy of mushy, or else it will disintegrate once oiled and baked.

Hot tap water Stale bread (see note) Extra-virgin olive oil Coarse salt and freshly

ground black pepper

adjust oven rack to middle position and heat to 400 degrees. soak bread (yes, whole loaves are fine) in large bowl filled with hot tap water until soft and pliable enough to squeeze (it should just take a minute). squeeze out as much water as possible from loaves without crushing, then break bread apart into roughly bite-sized pieces. place on large rimmed baking sheet in a single layer; drizzle liberally with oil and season generously with salt and pepper. toss with spatula to coat bread pieces evenly. Bake until bread is beginning to brown on bottom, about 20 minutes. Use spatula to flip bread and brown second side; flip again. continue baking, stirring as needed, until bread pieces are well-browned and crisp, up to 45 minutes. cool. £

onlInE Extra: Get the recipe for lentil Stew With Cumin and Pomegranate Molasses atMIxPdx.CoM

OR CCB # 1663; WA Reg # NEILKCI 18702 © Neil Kelly 2012

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Spanish-Style Chickpeas and Greens With Crusty Croutons serves 4

this will provide you with more chickpeas than required of the dish, but they will store for up to one week — in their cooking liquid — and can be used in soups, salads, sautés and spreads like hummus. chard or kale can be substituted for the spinach, though it should be blanched until tender and squeezed dry before being added to the beans. For a nonvegetarian version, garnish with sautéed spanish chorizo. and if you don’t have the time to prepare the chapons, garnish with a handful of chopped, toasted hazelnuts and serve with a baguette.


good for you cont.

For the first dish, I use dried chickpeas that I soak overnight in salted water then simmer with a few aromatics until tender. Cooked this way, the beans taste better and have a better texture than canned beans, plus the cooking liquid becomes flavorful enough to use as a replace-ment for vegetable or chicken broth. I flavor the chickpeas with a soffritto of onions, peppers and loads of garlic spiked with paprika and saffron. (If you must add meat, feel free to garnish with cubed bits of sautéed Spanish chorizo — impossibly addic-tive stuff.)

The lentil stew starts off a pretty classic affair, but then I spike it with cumin, caraway, chile and garlic — essentially the flavors of harissa, the North African condiment. A combi-nation of sun-dried tomatoes, sumac and pomegranate molasses adds a particularly bright, almost fruity flavor to counter the earthiness. The dish is something of a blank slate and can be gussied up with all kinds of garnishes. From braised greens to lab-neh (yogurt cheese), there’s not much that doesn’t taste good piled on top.

ChiCkPEaS:

8 sprigs fresh thyme 4 sprigs fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley 1 pound dried chickpeas, sorted through and soaked

overnight in salted water 1 onion 1 large carrot, quartered 1 celery rib (or 2 fennel stalks), quartered Garlic bulb, top ¼ sliced off to expose the cloves Bay leaf Salt

STEW: ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 red onion, minced 1 large red bell pepper, minced Salt Pinch saffron (optional) 4 cloves garlic, sliced thin 2 teaspoons paprika (regular or smoked) 6 ounces baby spinach (or 2 bunches spinach, washed

and chopped) 2 ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped coarse 4 green onions, root end and tops trimmed, sliced on bias Chapons (recipe follows) 1 lemon, cut into wedges (for serving) Hot sauce

For the beans: tie thyme and parsley sprigs together with kitchen twine; add to large dutch oven with remaining ingredients and large pinch salt. cover with several inches of water. Bring to simmer and remove and discard foam. reduce heat to low, partially cover, and cook until beans are tender, 1 to 2 hours. allow beans to cool in cooking liquid. discard bundled herbs and vegetables; reserve garlic.

For the stew: add olive oil, onion, pepper, large pinch salt and saffron (if using) to a large dutch oven set over medium-high heat. cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are beginning to brown and dramatically reduced in volume, 8 to 12 minutes. add garlic and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. stir in paprika and cook until deepened in color and fragrant, about 1 minute. add 3 cups cooked chickpeas, 1 to 1½ cups cooking liquid and bring to simmer. reduce heat to low and cook until thickened and flavors have blended, about 10 minutes.

meanwhile, place spinach in microwave-safe bowl, cover, and cook until just wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. allow to cool, squeeze out excess liquid, chop and add to chickpeas. taste and adjust seasoning with salt. squeeze the cooked garlic cloves from the beans into the stew. add tomatoes and green onions, and serve over chapons accompanied by lemon wedges and hot sauce.

Chapons consider these oversized croutons. Because they have been soaked, they have a uniquely crisp-chewy texture and almost custardy interior (the starches gelatinize once heated). while they provide contrast to all kinds of soups and stews, they also add body to salads (think panzanella).

the recipe is purposefully vague. any style of hearty bread or baguette works for chapons. when soaking the bread, test it frequently for hydration. the bread should be just soft and pliable, far shy of mushy, or else it will disintegrate once oiled and baked.

Hot tap water Stale bread (see note) Extra-virgin olive oil Coarse salt and freshly

ground black pepper

adjust oven rack to middle position and heat to 400 degrees. soak bread (yes, whole loaves are fine) in large bowl filled with hot tap water until soft and pliable enough to squeeze (it should just take a minute). squeeze out as much water as possible from loaves without crushing, then break bread apart into roughly bite-sized pieces. place on large rimmed baking sheet in a single layer; drizzle liberally with oil and season generously with salt and pepper. toss with spatula to coat bread pieces evenly. Bake until bread is beginning to brown on bottom, about 20 minutes. Use spatula to flip bread and brown second side; flip again. continue baking, stirring as needed, until bread pieces are well-browned and crisp, up to 45 minutes. cool. £

onlInE Extra: Get the recipe for lentil Stew With Cumin and Pomegranate Molasses atMIxPdx.CoM

shop local ~ shop lake oswegoTo be included in future Lake Oswego Mix pages, kindly contact Lora Helmer at [email protected]

enjoy a perfect day of shopping & dining

LAKE OSWEGOin

SCRATCH. foodsLocal farm fresh foods, handled with pride.

Gluten free, whole-food cookery.

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Grapevinethe Art of Style

Find a fun and friendly boutique fi lled with all your favorite things to make you look and feel great! Shop Grapevine where 30 years experience makes fashion fi t your lifestyle.

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Patrick JamesCheck out the new excitingRobert Graham deliveries. This waffl e weave pullover quarter zip is perfectfor Fall...just like you would expectfrom Patrick James.

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� e OilerieGREAT gift ideas . . . from specialty oils and vinegars to luxurious health and beauty products made with Olive Oil! Come in and check them out . . . you can sample them before you buy! Portland’s Olive Oil Bar® Store!

438 1st Street 503.675.6457oilerie.com

Dyke VandenburghDyke has been creating custom gold and platinum jewelry since 1970. Along with a wide selection of Dyke’s custom jewelry, the showroom also features fi ne quality designer jewelry from aroundthe world.

27 “A” Avenue503.636.4025vandenburghjewelers.com

World Class WinesOur store selection is crafted for every wine lover, from the most exclusive to delicious everyday wines. While you’re here, enjoy a glass of wine with us, inside or outside! Friday night tastings are from 4:30-8:00. Private events welcome.

269 “A” Avenue503.974.9841worldclasswinesoregon.com

Lakeside BicyclesLakeside Bicycles is where cycling dreams hang out. Home of fi ne dedicated service and the most exciting selectionof brands in the Portland area!Bianchi, Cannondale, Cervelo, Colnago, Pegoretti, Pinarello and more.

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Soletta ShoesSoletta Shoes specializes in exciting European fashions that are unique and great quality, yet practical and comfortable. Come visit us to see our great seasonal selection.

Lakeview Village310 North State St. Suite 116503.210.4125

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This marble sculptureis located on A Avenue

in Lake Oswegoin front of Accessories

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For more information on our award winning Public Art program, the Gallery

Without Walls, please visit our website www.

artscouncillo.org

Lake Oswego’s Gallery Without Walls


eat / technique

urgers, steaks and kebabs are the obvious choices for late summer grilling. But with a bit of expert

advice, you can use your grill to turn out deeply caramelized, subtly smoky vegetables, too. We asked chefs Gregory Denton and Gabrielle Quiñonez Denton, the duo behind the Argentine-inspired, grill-centric Ox, to teach us how to do it right.

“Sturdier vegetables work the best for grilling because you can really get the caramelization that you desire,” Denton says. Their grilled artichoke has been a menu staple since they opened, and they’ve shared their technique below. Follow their steps, then adapt them for other vegetables as you celebrate the last few weeks of grilling season.

Grilling vegetables with Ox

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the artichoke(s) and 1 garlic clove and ¼ of a lemon per choke. Simmer the artichoke(s) until tender, about 25 minutes, then drain and transfer to a cutting board to cool. Discard the garlic and lemons.

2. Meanwhile, preheat the grill for direct grilling over hot charcoal or high heat and oil the grill grates.

3. Cut the artichoke(s) in half lengthwise and remove the choke and a few of the purple leaves from around the center; discard the choke and leaves.

4. Season the artichoke(s) with salt, black pepper and olive oil — liberally. “You need

to season vegetables a little more than you would season meat for grilling because of the amount of liquid that comes out of them,” Denton says.

5. Place the artichoke(s), leaf side down, on the grill over the hot coals and grill until golden brown and lightly charred, about 10 minutes.

6. Using sturdy, long-handled tongs, turn the artichoke(s) and grill, flat side down, over the hot coals until grill marks appear, about 5 minutes.

7. Remove the artichoke(s) from the grill and season with additional olive oil, salt and pepper. Serve immediately with aioli for dipping.

BY AShleY GARtlAnD

PhOtOGRAPhY BY ROSS WIllIAM hAMIltOn

B

26 MIXpdX.coM auguST 2012

Tips and Tools

From Garden To GrillOnce you’ve mastered the artichoke, try preparing these three hearty fall veg-etables on the grill.

Bell pepper Stem, seed and halve the bell pepper. Brush the pepper all over with olive oil and season liberally with salt. Grill over a hot fire until the skin is blackened and blistered on all sides.

Radicchio Cut the radicchio lengthwise into four wedges. Brush the wedges all over with olive oil and season liberally with salt and pepper. Grill over a hot fire until limp and charred on all sides.

Squash trim the squash and cut lengthwise into thick batons. Brush all over with olive oil and season liberally with salt and pepper. Grill until tender and slightly charred on all sides. £

1. If you want great grill marks, resist the temptation to move the vegetables around a lot once you’ve placed them on the grates.

2. When you’re grilling over high heat, Quiñonez Denton says, long tongs are essential for turning the vegetable while protecting your hands from the hot fire.

3. Using real charcoal, not briquettes, and adding wood like alder, maple or oak to your fire produces more flavor-ful grilled vegetables, Quiñonez Denton says.

4. Unlike meat, grilled vegetables don’t need to rest before you serve them. But, Denton says, they taste great at room temperature, so you can grill the vegetables first and set them aside while you prepare the rest of the meal.

technique, cont.

It’s safe to say Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quiñonez Denton, chef-owners of Argentinian-inspired Ox restaurant, have the grill thing down pat. With their custom, wood-fired, 600-degree Grillworks grill, they’ve earned a solid place among Portland’s top restaurants.

FOR MORE INFO AND TO PURCHASE TICKETS VISITWWW.SAVORSOUTHERNOREGON.COM TICKETS $39 IN ADVANCE, $50 AT THE DOOR | [email protected]

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1) It’s not necessarily orange. It can be honey or peach, amber or pale red. Or … orange. 2) It doesn’t taste like oranges. When I queried members of the trade to find out what was in the market, one whole-saler suggested a new product: Charonge, a nonvintage California white wine with “natural orange flavor.” Um, no. That might be an orange-flavored wine, but it’s not an orange wine. 3) It’s what Julius Caesar drank. Open-topped vats. Amphorae. Foot tread-ing. People producing orange wines are us-ing tools like these — the same tools wine-

makers used for thousands of years, before the advent of refrigerated steel tanks, fancy French oak barrels and machines that punch down and press wine grapes. 4) It likes air. We’re constantly told to keep wine sealed tight. Can’t finish that whole bottle tonight? You’ll pay tomorrow, when it doesn’t taste so fresh. But orange wines are different. Although most wine-makers do their best to keep their juice away from oxygen, the orange winemaking process is all about oxidation. So, weirdly, these wines can taste even more complex and interesting the second or third day the bottle has been open. And all that air

imparts a yellowish tinge to the juice. 5) It can be made anywhere: You know the top part of Italy’s boot, where it fans backward toward Slovenia? That’s where most of the action is, orange wine-wise. It’s a place where winemakers apparently take everything they have learned, then toss it out the window. And although its epicenter is northeastern Italy/southwest-ern Slovenia, the orange wine uprising is happening all over the planet. “It’s like the Wild West,” observes Nicholas Suhor, wine director at Nostrana restaurant. 6) It’s all about the skin. The skins on white wine grapes range from green to gold, from pink to gray. White wines look so pale, generally, because the juice is pressed off and separated from the skins. But orange wines are made like red wines: They are allowed to macerate on the skins and soak up their pigment. Combine that with the effect of oxygen and you’ve got a

By katherine cole / photography By thomas Boyd

Off-beat autumn-hued wines

ou know about white, red and rosé. You know sparkling and fortified. But do you know about orange wines?

If you don’t, you’re not alone. In fact, most people in the wine industry don’t. But they’re out there — at least 18 examples of this quirky

beverage are floating around the Portland area right now. So what exactly is orange wine?

Y

drink

wine that appears to be, well, orange. And, thanks to those skins, tannic and spicy, too.

We gathered a lineup of orange wines and a panel of experts to taste through them in the tasting room at Boedecker Cellars. The winemakers in our group were wowed by what extended skin contact can do to a white. Nicolas Quillé already uses the method, sparingly, on small lots, for blending purposes. “But to take this one trick and push it all the way? This was intellectually challenging for me.” Fel-low panelist Athena Pappas agreed: “As a complexity agent, it shows me that there are places where we can get more flavor from our whites.”

IMPOSING LOGIC ON AN ILLOGICAL WINE

Although orange wines are gaining steam, they’re still far from commonplace. It takes a certain chutzpah to place a prod-uct on store shelves that is intentionally flawed and arguably overpriced.

“In the history of modern winemaking, we’ve gotten so good at controlling these things,” Quillé observed. “These winemak-ers are throwing out the playbook. I could not make wines like this.”

Strangely, although these wines purport to be “natural” — made via archaic methods, with no fining or filtering, no introduced yeasts, no chilled tanks, etc. — they’re also highly stylized. “Does wine-making like this completely remove terroir from the picture? I think it often does, ironically,” Quillé said.

“In a lot of these wines, style trumps terroir,” Suhor agreed.

“You’re supposed to just sit and con-template them,” Darryl Joannides added. “These are wines for reading Goethe. Or acting out Beckett in your backyard.”

WHAT WE LOVED

PUSHING THE ENVELOPE 2007 La Stoppa “Ageno” Emilia Bi-anco ($42)

Quillé called this wine “a library of defects.” Suhor countered, “What you find to be flaws, I find to be interest-ing.” Pappas had an allergic reaction to it — literally — and had to step away from the table. (She jot-

ted in her notes, “honey, caramel, throat closing!”) I kind of loved its nutmeg, dried orange peel, chai tea and root beer quali-ties, but I could see what Quillé was saying about nail polish and medicine, because those things were there, too. So: What is this wine? Well, it’s composed of malva-sia, ortrugo (an indigenous variety) and trebbiano that have sat on the skins for 30 days, creating a “super-weird and intense” amber-colored concoction, as Joannides described it. However, Joannides then pointed out that this tastes a lot like the most famous orange wine in the world, the Gravner “Anfora” Ribolla Gialla, which is $120 per bottle. So at $42, the La Stoppa is a screaming deal. Run out and buy it … at your own risk.

SUBTLY SLOVENIAN 2008 Movia “Lunar” Slovenia dry White Wine ($47)

First, the wine-maker: Vintner Ales Kristancic farms according to biody-namic principles, leaves his white juice on the lees for two years at a time in 600-liter Slovenian oak casks, wears guy jewelry (think chunky chain necklace) and was the subject of a Food & Wine magazine profile titled “Wine Genius of Slovenia.” Second, the variety: The “Lunar” is made from ribolla gialla, a rare but increasingly chic pinkish-yellow grape that’s gaining fame in that hotbed of wine experimentation where

the Collio of Friuli, eastern Italy, joins the Brda wine region of western Slovenia. Whether they call it ribolla or rebula, the big names in this game include Simcic, Radikon, the aforementioned Gravner and Movia. We loved this cloudy, floral, honey-colored, vanilla-tinged interpreta-tion from Movia, with its notes of lemon curd and spice. Sure, Kristancic is a rock star, but this wine is more power ballad than headbanger.

THE SLEEPER 2009 La Biancara di Angiolino Maule “Pico” Veneto Garganega White Wine ($31.50)

Here’s what’s great about orange wines: You can enjoy them over a period of days, as their oxygen-friendly flavors continue to develop. Here’s what’s unfortunate about orange wines: They really need to breathe before they can be enjoyed properly. When we initially popped the cork on this puppy, we got notes of skunk, kefir and olives. We were tempted to write it off, until Suhor stopped us. “This is a sleeper that needs to be revisited,” he pronounced. So we went back to it, and found a totally different wine. The interaction with air had rendered the golden liquid positively ambrosial. It was pretty, floral and crisp, redolent of tea leaves and sage, exciting with tension. Pappas had the highest praise of all: “I would open this wine up at home


and actually drink it.” Most of us know the garganega grape as Soave, that famous white of the Veneto. But in this interpreta-tion, the grapes are fermented on the skins in open vats for a couple of days before aging in giant casks for a year.

NEW-WORLD INTERPRETATION 2010 The Scholium Project “The Prince in His Caves” Farina Vineyards California White Wine ($43.50)

An aside: There were four wines in our tast-ing that just didn’t

fit with the rest of the lineup. When I found out that all four hailed from Oregon, I realized an entirely separate article was in order. Fortunately, there was a bottle from California that did seem to continue the conversation begun in Italy and Slovenia. It was this sauvignon blanc, from the cerebral, convention-defying outfit known as The Scholium Project. We liked this sauvi-gnon blanc, a lot. It killed me softly like a cup of lemongrass-chamomile tea, with notes of hay and subtle ginger. The rest of the gang picked up everything from rasp-berry to apricot-lemon to cat pee to olive. When we unveiled our favorite bottles, Joannides gasped: “I actually helped to sort fruit for this wine at harvest last fall!” This appealing wine was fermented in an open-top puncheon (oversized barrel) and was treaded by foot, the old-fashioned way. Fittingly, Quillé described this smooth number as “academic.” £

panelists

Athena Pappas, co-owner and co-winemaker, Boedecker cellars; boedeckercellars.com

Nicholas Suhor (left), wine director, nostrana; nostrana.com

Nicolas Quillé (far left), general manager and head winemaker, Vinmotion Wines; vinmotionwines.com

Darryl Joannides, owner, cork, a bottle shop; corkwineshop.com

Katherine Cole, wine columnist, miX and the oregonian; katherinecole.com

wine, cont.

OnLinE EXTrA: Find out where to buy our favorite orange wines at MiXPdX.COM

Portland Spirit Cruises503-224-3900

www.portlandspirit.com

Lunch - BrunchDinner - Sightseeing

Private Events

wine that appears to be, well, orange. And, thanks to those skins, tannic and spicy, too.

We gathered a lineup of orange wines and a panel of experts to taste through them in the tasting room at Boedecker Cellars. The winemakers in our group were wowed by what extended skin contact can do to a white. Nicolas Quillé already uses the method, sparingly, on small lots, for blending purposes. “But to take this one trick and push it all the way? This was intellectually challenging for me.” Fel-low panelist Athena Pappas agreed: “As a complexity agent, it shows me that there are places where we can get more flavor from our whites.”

IMPOSING LOGIC ON AN ILLOGICAL WINE

Although orange wines are gaining steam, they’re still far from commonplace. It takes a certain chutzpah to place a prod-uct on store shelves that is intentionally flawed and arguably overpriced.

“In the history of modern winemaking, we’ve gotten so good at controlling these things,” Quillé observed. “These winemak-ers are throwing out the playbook. I could not make wines like this.”

Strangely, although these wines purport to be “natural” — made via archaic methods, with no fining or filtering, no introduced yeasts, no chilled tanks, etc. — they’re also highly stylized. “Does wine-making like this completely remove terroir from the picture? I think it often does, ironically,” Quillé said.

“In a lot of these wines, style trumps terroir,” Suhor agreed.

“You’re supposed to just sit and con-template them,” Darryl Joannides added. “These are wines for reading Goethe. Or acting out Beckett in your backyard.”

WHAT WE LOVED

PUSHING THE ENVELOPE 2007 La Stoppa “Ageno” Emilia Bi-anco ($42)

Quillé called this wine “a library of defects.” Suhor countered, “What you find to be flaws, I find to be interest-ing.” Pappas had an allergic reaction to it — literally — and had to step away from the table. (She jot-

ted in her notes, “honey, caramel, throat closing!”) I kind of loved its nutmeg, dried orange peel, chai tea and root beer quali-ties, but I could see what Quillé was saying about nail polish and medicine, because those things were there, too. So: What is this wine? Well, it’s composed of malva-sia, ortrugo (an indigenous variety) and trebbiano that have sat on the skins for 30 days, creating a “super-weird and intense” amber-colored concoction, as Joannides described it. However, Joannides then pointed out that this tastes a lot like the most famous orange wine in the world, the Gravner “Anfora” Ribolla Gialla, which is $120 per bottle. So at $42, the La Stoppa is a screaming deal. Run out and buy it … at your own risk.

SUBTLY SLOVENIAN 2008 Movia “Lunar” Slovenia dry White Wine ($47)

First, the wine-maker: Vintner Ales Kristancic farms according to biody-namic principles, leaves his white juice on the lees for two years at a time in 600-liter Slovenian oak casks, wears guy jewelry (think chunky chain necklace) and was the subject of a Food & Wine magazine profile titled “Wine Genius of Slovenia.” Second, the variety: The “Lunar” is made from ribolla gialla, a rare but increasingly chic pinkish-yellow grape that’s gaining fame in that hotbed of wine experimentation where

the Collio of Friuli, eastern Italy, joins the Brda wine region of western Slovenia. Whether they call it ribolla or rebula, the big names in this game include Simcic, Radikon, the aforementioned Gravner and Movia. We loved this cloudy, floral, honey-colored, vanilla-tinged interpreta-tion from Movia, with its notes of lemon curd and spice. Sure, Kristancic is a rock star, but this wine is more power ballad than headbanger.

THE SLEEPER 2009 La Biancara di Angiolino Maule “Pico” Veneto Garganega White Wine ($31.50)

Here’s what’s great about orange wines: You can enjoy them over a period of days, as their oxygen-friendly flavors continue to develop. Here’s what’s unfortunate about orange wines: They really need to breathe before they can be enjoyed properly. When we initially popped the cork on this puppy, we got notes of skunk, kefir and olives. We were tempted to write it off, until Suhor stopped us. “This is a sleeper that needs to be revisited,” he pronounced. So we went back to it, and found a totally different wine. The interaction with air had rendered the golden liquid positively ambrosial. It was pretty, floral and crisp, redolent of tea leaves and sage, exciting with tension. Pappas had the highest praise of all: “I would open this wine up at home


and actually drink it.” Most of us know the garganega grape as Soave, that famous white of the Veneto. But in this interpreta-tion, the grapes are fermented on the skins in open vats for a couple of days before aging in giant casks for a year.

NEW-WORLD INTERPRETATION 2010 The Scholium Project “The Prince in His Caves” Farina Vineyards California White Wine ($43.50)

An aside: There were four wines in our tast-ing that just didn’t

fit with the rest of the lineup. When I found out that all four hailed from Oregon, I realized an entirely separate article was in order. Fortunately, there was a bottle from California that did seem to continue the conversation begun in Italy and Slovenia. It was this sauvignon blanc, from the cerebral, convention-defying outfit known as The Scholium Project. We liked this sauvi-gnon blanc, a lot. It killed me softly like a cup of lemongrass-chamomile tea, with notes of hay and subtle ginger. The rest of the gang picked up everything from rasp-berry to apricot-lemon to cat pee to olive. When we unveiled our favorite bottles, Joannides gasped: “I actually helped to sort fruit for this wine at harvest last fall!” This appealing wine was fermented in an open-top puncheon (oversized barrel) and was treaded by foot, the old-fashioned way. Fittingly, Quillé described this smooth number as “academic.” £

panelists

Athena Pappas, co-owner and co-winemaker, Boedecker cellars; boedeckercellars.com

Nicholas Suhor (left), wine director, nostrana; nostrana.com

Nicolas Quillé (far left), general manager and head winemaker, Vinmotion Wines; vinmotionwines.com

Darryl Joannides, owner, cork, a bottle shop; corkwineshop.com

Katherine Cole, wine columnist, miX and the oregonian; katherinecole.com

wine, cont.

OnLinE EXTrA: Find out where to buy our favorite orange wines at MiXPdX.COM


Out with the gluten,

in with the beer

raditionally made with gluten-rich barley or wheat, beer’s not called “liquid bread” for noth-ing. That’s why, until recently,

beer lovers who have had to go gluten-free have had to go beer-free, too.

Sure, gluten-free beers such as Anheuser Busch’s Redbridge, Bard’s and New Planet have all been available nationwide for several years, but because they were made with ingredients like sorghum, rice and millet, they didn’t exactly taste like beer as we know it. Some attempts weren’t even recognizable as beer.

Luckily for us, Portland is home to two breweries that have made it their mission to brew gluten-free lagers and ales that really do taste like the beers we know and love. Craft Brew Alliance, the largest brewery in the state and the parent company of Widmer Brothers Brewing, is marketing its new Omission line of gluten-free beers nationally. And one of our newest and smallest breweries, Harvester Brewing,

makes nothing but gluten-free beers in a brewery where John Barleycorn will never be welcome.

“Developing a brewing program that would allow us to brew great-tasting craft beer with malted barley, but happens to be gluten-free, has been a personal mission of mine for the last several years,” says Wid-mer brewmaster Joe Casey. “Now we’re able to consistently brew beer with gluten levels well below the international gluten-free standard.”

Casey began formulating gluten-free beer recipes shortly after his wife was diag-nosed with celiac disease in 2006. “My wife missed the flavor of beer,” Casey says. “She tried a wide variety of gluten-free beers, but they were missing what she described as beer character. It helped drive me to keep looking for a solution.”

Even though Omission’s lager and pale ale are brewed with malted barley, it ends up gluten-free because it’s clarified with a special enzyme that breaks down proteins,

TBy John Foyston

photography By motoya nakamura

harvester Brewing founders James neumeister (top) and John Dugan brew

only gluten-free beers. In fact, they don’t even allow barley to cross the threshold of their southeast portland brewery. to give

their beers a rich flavor, they turn to Willamette Valley-grown chestnuts, which they grind and roast to varying degrees of darkness (above, right) depending on the

style of beer they’re making.

including gluten. The beers have fewer than 20 parts per million of gluten (every batch is tested by two independent labs while the beer is warehoused for three weeks pending test results).

“Joe deserves the credit for all the work he put into making a gluten-free beer that actually tastes like beer,” says Craft Brew Alliance CEO Terry Michaelson, who also lives with celiac disease. “After a signifi-cant investment in research, testing and development over the past two years, we’ve established an entire brewing program focused on manag-ing gluten in the brewing process from start to finish.”

Taking a different approach is Harvester Brewing in Southeast Portland, a much smaller opera-tion consisting of founders James Neumeister and John Dugan. The brewery opened late in 2011 and brews only vegan, gluten-free beers — no barley is even allowed on the premises. Instead they use Willamette Valley chestnuts, which are ground and then roasted in a big blue roaster from — of all places — Jordan. They aim for several levels of roast, from light golden to very dark, replicating the different malted barleys used for different styles of beer. They cur-rently make four styles, including the recently released IPA.

“Brewing good gluten-free beer is incredibly challenging and we wanted to be totally focused on that niche,” says Neumeister, the brewer. “The gluten-free beer drinking com-munity is under-represented in the craft-beer market. One of the great things about craft beer is the variety available, and we wanted to be able to offer that to people with gluten issues.”

“Our approach is a simple one: Don’t start with what you don’t want. By brewing in a dedicated GF facility and never using any gluten-containing ingredients we minimize any chance of cross-contamination. We’re able to test the beer for gluten at any point, from raw materials to finished product.”

In addition, all of Harvester’s roasting, bottling and brewing equip-ment has only ever been used for gluten-free beers and, like Omission,

drink


Out with the gluten,

in with the beer

raditionally made with gluten-rich barley or wheat, beer’s not called “liquid bread” for noth-ing. That’s why, until recently,

beer lovers who have had to go gluten-free have had to go beer-free, too.

Sure, gluten-free beers such as Anheuser Busch’s Redbridge, Bard’s and New Planet have all been available nationwide for several years, but because they were made with ingredients like sorghum, rice and millet, they didn’t exactly taste like beer as we know it. Some attempts weren’t even recognizable as beer.

Luckily for us, Portland is home to two breweries that have made it their mission to brew gluten-free lagers and ales that really do taste like the beers we know and love. Craft Brew Alliance, the largest brewery in the state and the parent company of Widmer Brothers Brewing, is marketing its new Omission line of gluten-free beers nationally. And one of our newest and smallest breweries, Harvester Brewing,

makes nothing but gluten-free beers in a brewery where John Barleycorn will never be welcome.

“Developing a brewing program that would allow us to brew great-tasting craft beer with malted barley, but happens to be gluten-free, has been a personal mission of mine for the last several years,” says Wid-mer brewmaster Joe Casey. “Now we’re able to consistently brew beer with gluten levels well below the international gluten-free standard.”

Casey began formulating gluten-free beer recipes shortly after his wife was diag-nosed with celiac disease in 2006. “My wife missed the flavor of beer,” Casey says. “She tried a wide variety of gluten-free beers, but they were missing what she described as beer character. It helped drive me to keep looking for a solution.”

Even though Omission’s lager and pale ale are brewed with malted barley, it ends up gluten-free because it’s clarified with a special enzyme that breaks down proteins,

TBy John Foyston

photography By motoya nakamura

harvester Brewing founders James neumeister (top) and John Dugan brew

only gluten-free beers. In fact, they don’t even allow barley to cross the threshold of their southeast portland brewery. to give

their beers a rich flavor, they turn to Willamette Valley-grown chestnuts, which they grind and roast to varying degrees of darkness (above, right) depending on the

style of beer they’re making.

including gluten. The beers have fewer than 20 parts per million of gluten (every batch is tested by two independent labs while the beer is warehoused for three weeks pending test results).

“Joe deserves the credit for all the work he put into making a gluten-free beer that actually tastes like beer,” says Craft Brew Alliance CEO Terry Michaelson, who also lives with celiac disease. “After a signifi-cant investment in research, testing and development over the past two years, we’ve established an entire brewing program focused on manag-ing gluten in the brewing process from start to finish.”

Taking a different approach is Harvester Brewing in Southeast Portland, a much smaller opera-tion consisting of founders James Neumeister and John Dugan. The brewery opened late in 2011 and brews only vegan, gluten-free beers — no barley is even allowed on the premises. Instead they use Willamette Valley chestnuts, which are ground and then roasted in a big blue roaster from — of all places — Jordan. They aim for several levels of roast, from light golden to very dark, replicating the different malted barleys used for different styles of beer. They cur-rently make four styles, including the recently released IPA.

“Brewing good gluten-free beer is incredibly challenging and we wanted to be totally focused on that niche,” says Neumeister, the brewer. “The gluten-free beer drinking com-munity is under-represented in the craft-beer market. One of the great things about craft beer is the variety available, and we wanted to be able to offer that to people with gluten issues.”

“Our approach is a simple one: Don’t start with what you don’t want. By brewing in a dedicated GF facility and never using any gluten-containing ingredients we minimize any chance of cross-contamination. We’re able to test the beer for gluten at any point, from raw materials to finished product.”

In addition, all of Harvester’s roasting, bottling and brewing equip-ment has only ever been used for gluten-free beers and, like Omission,

drink

6580 NE MINERAL SPRINGS RDCARLTON, OR 97111

[email protected]

w w w . a n n e a m i e . c o m

SUMMER WINEMAKER ’S DINNER

TICKETS ON SALE NOWVISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE DETAILS

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH

with Guest Chef Jason French of

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Omission omission’s lager and pale ale are avail-able nationwide in 12-ounce bottles. Visit the website for a full list of stores. omissionbeer.com

Harvester Brewing harvester beers (pale ale, red ale, dark ale and Ipa) are available in 22-ounce bottles at more than 90 retailers around the region and in three dozen states from online retailer letspour.com. also, you can buy direct from the brewery on thursdays from 3:30 to 6 p.m. sales are restricted to full cases only, but you can mix or match styles to make a case. 715 S.E. Lincoln St., harvesterbrewing.com £

beer, cont.

they sell their beers only in bottles to avoid cross-contamination in serving lines.

Harvester’s ban on barley has been vindicated by a recent interim federal ruling stating that food made with ingredients containing gluten cannot be labeled gluten-free, even if the final levels meet gluten-free stan-dards. The Food and Drug Adminis-tration still has to issue a final ruling, but the folks at Craft Brew Alliance are well aware of the issue, and will label their beers in accordance with whatever standards are adopted. But, whether the label says “gluten-free” or not, a beer such as Omission, with fewer than 20 parts per million of gluten, can likely be enjoyed by most people with gluten-intolerance.

512 SE Baseline HILLSBORO

503-648-2813

The New Electrolux French Door Refrigerator is loadedwith features that make it perfect for entertaining at home.

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10605 SE Main St, Milwaukie, OR503.654.4423 Hours: 11-9 Daily

www.CanbyAsparagusFarm.com

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get outLooking for great eats in S.F.?Mission accomplished

I left Portland for San Francisco almost four years ago, but people still ask me which city has better food. That’s a tough competition to

judge, but I can tell you this — visitors typi-cally arrive in San Francisco hungry and leave very, very full.

San Francisco has long held its reputa-tion as a vibrant food city. (OK, there’s also the Golden Gate Bridge, world-renowned museums, and a little thing called technology.) But if you want to go where the hippest, hungriest locals frequent, you need to ditch the cable car rides through Chinatown and the overstuffed bowls of chowder on Fisherman’s Wharf in favor of The Mission, a neighborhood that has exploded with hot new restaurants in recent years.

By Anne ZimmermAnphotogrAphy By AuBrie pick


get out, cont.

THE NEIGHBORHOOD THAT FACEBOOK BUILT

Once upon a time The Mission was the “Mexican neighborhood.” It was known for its cheap bars, big burritos, and the guys on the corner who sold bacon-wrapped hot dogs or baggies of chile-dusted mango slices.

The hot dog slingers are still there, but things are definitely changing. Brooklyn-ization is in full swing. The commerce of cool is booming. Rents are skyrocketing, partly because everyone wants to live in the newly trendy Mission, and partly because of its proximity to Silicon Valley. On weekday mornings, large luxury buses equipped with deluxe seats and Wi-Fi park in strategic locations, ready to truck tech workers south to Apple, Facebook and other high-profile companies each day. The people on those buses are mostly young and are supposed to be wicked smart. They have ample cash flow and highly discerning taste. They’ll wait for hours for a table at a hip Jewish deli, pay $13.50 for a gourmet Reuben sandwich, and then tweet about the experience: “To our right, babies slurping matzo ball soup. To our left, a family speaking He-brew. Behind us, a pair of transvestites. @wisesonsdeli.”

From Union Square, with its big hotels, The Mission is a quick BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) ride south. Hop on at the Powell Street Station and exit at 24th Street. Warning: The Mission is also one of San Francisco’s largest neighbor-hoods. Walking shoes are a must as taxis can be hard to come by. The bonus? You’ll be so well-fed that you’ll welcome the opportunity to amble.

THE REBEL WITHIN

Craftsman and Wolves bakery was one of the most anticipated openings of the summer of 2012 (yes, you read that right). Pastry chef William Werner (formerly of Quince, one of the city’s four-star restau-rants) has created a sleek, modernist cafe where a 20-foot pastry case displays artisan

creations as though they were jewels — highly stylized “cube cakes,” dark choco-late eclairs and savory financiers packed with sweet corn, thyme and black mustard. The Rebel Within, a savory muffin that contains a still-runny sous vide egg, is his most coveted creation and aptly speaks to the Mission zeitgeist of precision, innova-tion and extravagance. Wash it down with a cup of Sightglass Coffee — the newest darling of the city’s coffee scene — that’s roasted just down the road in SOMA.

If your tastes veer a bit toward the more traditional, wander under the plane trees down mural-lined 24th Street to Knead Patisserie. This tiny bakery is in Local Mission Eatery, a casual lunch and dinner spot that prides itself on its entirely locavore menu. Knead perfects French-style sweets like large flaky croissants and the pomme d’amore, a small circle of pastry stuffed with sweet custard sporting a crackly bruléed top. Get your coffee two doors down at Philz, a decade-old San Francisco establishment that specializes in brewed-to-order cups. Pick from over two-dozen blends of beans from around the world, and don’t be afraid to let your barista talk you through the process; they’ll add milk and sugar to your specification. If you’re feeling daring, ask for your cup garnished with fresh mint.

THE NEW GOURMET GHETTO

It’s still possible to get a great burrito in The Mission (opinions on this vary, but La Taqueria is always a contender), but the neighborhood is having multiple love affairs with foods from across the map. Take Wise Sons Deli. Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman got their start cooking at the Jewish Student Center at UC Berkeley before opening their traditional Jewish deli evolved for today’s foodie. A Reuben arrives on thick, buttery slices of house-made brioche. Pastrami is brined for seven days before being piled on fries along with Swiss cheese, béchamel, caramelized onions and Russian dressing. Chocolate babka is stuffed with swirls of artisan chocolate.

If you can’t get a reservation at Thom-as McNaughton’s Flour and Water and

don’t feel like waiting for some of the city’s finest pizza (on a recent visit, the hostess quoted me a wait time of five hours) get in line at Salumeria, his latest project. It’s a classic Italian grocery, done California style. Buy artisan souvenirs (locally made jams, pickles, chocolates, dried fruits and nuts, hard salamis and more) to take home and order a flavor-packed sandwich to eat on the sunny patio. If you linger for too long, you can slide straight from lunch to dinner at the attached restaurant in McNaughton’s Italian-themed triumvirate: Central Kitchen.

THE ULTIMATE BRAIN FREEZE

An afternoon slump demands a sweet or caffeinated treat. Combine them both at Namu Gaji where a hand-cranked shaved ice machine turns out icy treats

craftsman and Wolves Wise Sons Deli

Salumeria

namu gaji

A PortlAnd trAditionSince 1892

“For over a century, Jake’s has beenattracting crowds with a remarkablysimple approach: well-produced,

uncomplicated seafood served by afriendly, knowledgeable staff.”

- Willamette Week, Portland’sBest Restaurants

FOR RESV. 503.226.1419

“The classic Portland combination ofelegance, informality and history.”- The Oregonian- A&E Diner

A PortlAnd trAditionSince 1994

FOR RESV. 503.220.1850

PERFECTSTEAKS

SEAFOOD

f f


get out, cont.

THE NEIGHBORHOOD THAT FACEBOOK BUILT

Once upon a time The Mission was the “Mexican neighborhood.” It was known for its cheap bars, big burritos, and the guys on the corner who sold bacon-wrapped hot dogs or baggies of chile-dusted mango slices.

The hot dog slingers are still there, but things are definitely changing. Brooklyn-ization is in full swing. The commerce of cool is booming. Rents are skyrocketing, partly because everyone wants to live in the newly trendy Mission, and partly because of its proximity to Silicon Valley. On weekday mornings, large luxury buses equipped with deluxe seats and Wi-Fi park in strategic locations, ready to truck tech workers south to Apple, Facebook and other high-profile companies each day. The people on those buses are mostly young and are supposed to be wicked smart. They have ample cash flow and highly discerning taste. They’ll wait for hours for a table at a hip Jewish deli, pay $13.50 for a gourmet Reuben sandwich, and then tweet about the experience: “To our right, babies slurping matzo ball soup. To our left, a family speaking He-brew. Behind us, a pair of transvestites. @wisesonsdeli.”

From Union Square, with its big hotels, The Mission is a quick BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) ride south. Hop on at the Powell Street Station and exit at 24th Street. Warning: The Mission is also one of San Francisco’s largest neighbor-hoods. Walking shoes are a must as taxis can be hard to come by. The bonus? You’ll be so well-fed that you’ll welcome the opportunity to amble.

THE REBEL WITHIN

Craftsman and Wolves bakery was one of the most anticipated openings of the summer of 2012 (yes, you read that right). Pastry chef William Werner (formerly of Quince, one of the city’s four-star restau-rants) has created a sleek, modernist cafe where a 20-foot pastry case displays artisan

creations as though they were jewels — highly stylized “cube cakes,” dark choco-late eclairs and savory financiers packed with sweet corn, thyme and black mustard. The Rebel Within, a savory muffin that contains a still-runny sous vide egg, is his most coveted creation and aptly speaks to the Mission zeitgeist of precision, innova-tion and extravagance. Wash it down with a cup of Sightglass Coffee — the newest darling of the city’s coffee scene — that’s roasted just down the road in SOMA.

If your tastes veer a bit toward the more traditional, wander under the plane trees down mural-lined 24th Street to Knead Patisserie. This tiny bakery is in Local Mission Eatery, a casual lunch and dinner spot that prides itself on its entirely locavore menu. Knead perfects French-style sweets like large flaky croissants and the pomme d’amore, a small circle of pastry stuffed with sweet custard sporting a crackly bruléed top. Get your coffee two doors down at Philz, a decade-old San Francisco establishment that specializes in brewed-to-order cups. Pick from over two-dozen blends of beans from around the world, and don’t be afraid to let your barista talk you through the process; they’ll add milk and sugar to your specification. If you’re feeling daring, ask for your cup garnished with fresh mint.

THE NEW GOURMET GHETTO

It’s still possible to get a great burrito in The Mission (opinions on this vary, but La Taqueria is always a contender), but the neighborhood is having multiple love affairs with foods from across the map. Take Wise Sons Deli. Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman got their start cooking at the Jewish Student Center at UC Berkeley before opening their traditional Jewish deli evolved for today’s foodie. A Reuben arrives on thick, buttery slices of house-made brioche. Pastrami is brined for seven days before being piled on fries along with Swiss cheese, béchamel, caramelized onions and Russian dressing. Chocolate babka is stuffed with swirls of artisan chocolate.

If you can’t get a reservation at Thom-as McNaughton’s Flour and Water and

don’t feel like waiting for some of the city’s finest pizza (on a recent visit, the hostess quoted me a wait time of five hours) get in line at Salumeria, his latest project. It’s a classic Italian grocery, done California style. Buy artisan souvenirs (locally made jams, pickles, chocolates, dried fruits and nuts, hard salamis and more) to take home and order a flavor-packed sandwich to eat on the sunny patio. If you linger for too long, you can slide straight from lunch to dinner at the attached restaurant in McNaughton’s Italian-themed triumvirate: Central Kitchen.

THE ULTIMATE BRAIN FREEZE

An afternoon slump demands a sweet or caffeinated treat. Combine them both at Namu Gaji where a hand-cranked shaved ice machine turns out icy treats

craftsman and Wolves Wise Sons Deli

Salumeria

namu gaji


that must be devoured quickly. Namu Gaji is more than just a shaved ice place. In fact, it’s better known for its exciting, California-Asian fusion dishes like “KFC” — Korean fried chicken that’s dressed in a sweet-tart sauce and served with a side of gravy, a pile of crunchy slaw, and pickles. But really, save room for dessert. The shaved-ice flavors are ever-changing, but the snowy pile of Four Barrel Coffee shaved ice (the roaster is just a few blocks

away) garnished with beads of tapioca and sweetened condensed milk perks flagging spirits. Across the street, Dolores Park offers one of the finest smorgasbords of people-watching in the city.

RESERVATIONS REQUIRED

Trying to decide where to eat dinner in the Mission is like deciding where to have your last supper. Epic. But, there are a

couple of things to know. One, reserva-tions for the best places are almost always required. Two, don’t be afraid to go late — snagging a 10 p.m. reservation at Locanda, the new Roman-style eatery from the legendary Mission restaurant Delfina, might actually be a real score. The lesson: Plan ahead or go hungry (or fall for one of those bacon-wrapped hot dogs).

Bar Tartine, the newest project from Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson

(who also started the legendary Tartine Bakery that’s just blocks away) manages to embrace the deep tradition of Califor-nia cuisine that dominates San Francisco while giving diners something that is en-tirely new. The food is Eastern European in flavor, with a distinctly DIY touch. In addition to local produce and Tartine’s famous breads, chef Nick Balla also cures his own salami, makes pickles and dries his own chiles and spices. The menu at Bar Tartine is small and ever changing, but any meal should start with langos — a puffy fried potato bread topped with sour cream, garlic and scallions. If you’re a pickled herring fan and it’s available, order it.

Meanwhile at St. Vincent, it’s all about the wine — and the fabulous tavern food that goes with it. Owner/wine director David Lynch created a list of a hundred wines for under a hundred dollars — and

there’s plenty available by the glass, too. Each nonsparkling wine can be poured as a half bottle, giving you an excellent excuse to compare California, Oregon and French pinot noirs. Order a mix of small plates (hand-rolled pretzel with butter and mustard) and large (Rabbit and Chicken Burgoo) and settle in for the night.

And if you just can’t get that bowl of chowder out of your head, never fear. Tucked deep in the Mission, Local’s Corner is run by young New York trans-plants for whom the word local is a rule to live by, not a marketing adjective. The small menu is entirely composed of sea-food and wines from Northern Califor-nia. Creamy soup stuffed with potatoes, turnips and oysters is the perfect taste of a San Francisco that is both rooted in tradition and taking off. £

Bar Tartine 561 Valencia St. (at 16th St.) 415-487-1600 bartartine.com

Central Kitchen 3000 20th St. (at Florida St.) 415-826-7004 centralkitchensf.com

Craftsman and Wolves 746 Valencia St. (at 18th) 415-913-7713 craftsman-wolves.com

Delfina 3621 18th St. (at guer-rero St.) 415-552-4055 delfinasf.com

Flour and Water 2401 harrison St. (at 20th St.) 415-826-7000 flourandwater.com

Knead Patisserie 3111 24th St. (at Folsom) 415-655-3024 kneadpatisserie.com

La Taqueria 2889 mission St. (at 25th St.) 415-285-7117

Local’s Corner 2500 Bryant St. (at 23rd St.) 415-800-7945 localscornersf.com

Local Mission Eatery 3111 24th St. (at Folsom) 415-655-3422 localmissioneatery.com

Locanda 557 Valencia St. (at 16th St.) 415-863-6800 locandasf.com

Namu Gagi 499 Dolores St. (at 18th St.) 415-431-6268 namusf.com

Philz Coffee 3101 24th St. (at Folsom) 415-834-5933 philzcoffee.com

Salumeria 3000 20th St. (at Florida St.) 415-471-2998 salumeriasf.com

Sightglass Coffee 270 Seventh St. (at Folsom) 415-861-1313 sightglasscoffee.com

St. Vincent Tavern & Wine Merchant 1270 Valencia St. (at 24th) 415-285-1200 stvincentsf.com

Tartine Bakery 600 guerrero St. (at 18th St.) 415-487-2600 tartinebakery.com

Wise Sons Deli 3150 24th St. (at Shotwell) 415-787-DeLi (3354) wisesonsdeli.com

get out, cont.

Where to go

Bar tartine

Local’s corner

Locanda

NE 30th & Killingsworth, Portland OR503.227.2669

www.CocottePDX.com

Silverwood Theme ParkJump into the car for a short drive toSilverwood, the northwest’s largesttheme park, a place filled with fun andexcitement for everyone! Gigantic steel& massive wooden roller coasters, a skyscraping drop tower, kids rides &more. Plus in September there are great ticket deals. Just north of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho on Hwy. 95.

1-208-683-3400 SilverwoodThemePark.com


that must be devoured quickly. Namu Gaji is more than just a shaved ice place. In fact, it’s better known for its exciting, California-Asian fusion dishes like “KFC” — Korean fried chicken that’s dressed in a sweet-tart sauce and served with a side of gravy, a pile of crunchy slaw, and pickles. But really, save room for dessert. The shaved-ice flavors are ever-changing, but the snowy pile of Four Barrel Coffee shaved ice (the roaster is just a few blocks

away) garnished with beads of tapioca and sweetened condensed milk perks flagging spirits. Across the street, Dolores Park offers one of the finest smorgasbords of people-watching in the city.

RESERVATIONS REQUIRED

Trying to decide where to eat dinner in the Mission is like deciding where to have your last supper. Epic. But, there are a

couple of things to know. One, reserva-tions for the best places are almost always required. Two, don’t be afraid to go late — snagging a 10 p.m. reservation at Locanda, the new Roman-style eatery from the legendary Mission restaurant Delfina, might actually be a real score. The lesson: Plan ahead or go hungry (or fall for one of those bacon-wrapped hot dogs).

Bar Tartine, the newest project from Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson

(who also started the legendary Tartine Bakery that’s just blocks away) manages to embrace the deep tradition of Califor-nia cuisine that dominates San Francisco while giving diners something that is en-tirely new. The food is Eastern European in flavor, with a distinctly DIY touch. In addition to local produce and Tartine’s famous breads, chef Nick Balla also cures his own salami, makes pickles and dries his own chiles and spices. The menu at Bar Tartine is small and ever changing, but any meal should start with langos — a puffy fried potato bread topped with sour cream, garlic and scallions. If you’re a pickled herring fan and it’s available, order it.

Meanwhile at St. Vincent, it’s all about the wine — and the fabulous tavern food that goes with it. Owner/wine director David Lynch created a list of a hundred wines for under a hundred dollars — and

there’s plenty available by the glass, too. Each nonsparkling wine can be poured as a half bottle, giving you an excellent excuse to compare California, Oregon and French pinot noirs. Order a mix of small plates (hand-rolled pretzel with butter and mustard) and large (Rabbit and Chicken Burgoo) and settle in for the night.

And if you just can’t get that bowl of chowder out of your head, never fear. Tucked deep in the Mission, Local’s Corner is run by young New York trans-plants for whom the word local is a rule to live by, not a marketing adjective. The small menu is entirely composed of sea-food and wines from Northern Califor-nia. Creamy soup stuffed with potatoes, turnips and oysters is the perfect taste of a San Francisco that is both rooted in tradition and taking off. £

Bar Tartine 561 Valencia St. (at 16th St.) 415-487-1600 bartartine.com

Central Kitchen 3000 20th St. (at Florida St.) 415-826-7004 centralkitchensf.com

Craftsman and Wolves 746 Valencia St. (at 18th) 415-913-7713 craftsman-wolves.com

Delfina 3621 18th St. (at guer-rero St.) 415-552-4055 delfinasf.com

Flour and Water 2401 harrison St. (at 20th St.) 415-826-7000 flourandwater.com

Knead Patisserie 3111 24th St. (at Folsom) 415-655-3024 kneadpatisserie.com

La Taqueria 2889 mission St. (at 25th St.) 415-285-7117

Local’s Corner 2500 Bryant St. (at 23rd St.) 415-800-7945 localscornersf.com

Local Mission Eatery 3111 24th St. (at Folsom) 415-655-3422 localmissioneatery.com

Locanda 557 Valencia St. (at 16th St.) 415-863-6800 locandasf.com

Namu Gagi 499 Dolores St. (at 18th St.) 415-431-6268 namusf.com

Philz Coffee 3101 24th St. (at Folsom) 415-834-5933 philzcoffee.com

Salumeria 3000 20th St. (at Florida St.) 415-471-2998 salumeriasf.com

Sightglass Coffee 270 Seventh St. (at Folsom) 415-861-1313 sightglasscoffee.com

St. Vincent Tavern & Wine Merchant 1270 Valencia St. (at 24th) 415-285-1200 stvincentsf.com

Tartine Bakery 600 guerrero St. (at 18th St.) 415-487-2600 tartinebakery.com

Wise Sons Deli 3150 24th St. (at Shotwell) 415-787-DeLi (3354) wisesonsdeli.com

get out, cont.

Where to go

Bar tartine

Local’s corner

Locanda

SubScribe atmixpdx.com

calendar

38 MIXpdX.coM september 2012 september 2012 MIXpdX.coM 39

COMPILED BY GRANT BUTLER

Our picks for what to do when

Preview

Let’s FeastPortland is getting its first major, national-buzz-generating food festival this month, when Feast arrives Sept. 20-23. Top chefs from around the country will mingle with our own hometown heroes for an event that, really, you’d be a fool to miss. There will be cooking demos, classes, tastings, talks and dinners with your favorite local chefs and authors, plus big names you’ve probably only read about. But everything has a price, so you’ll have to plan ahead according to the depth of your pockets. We’ve plotted out our dream itinerary below, but to get a full taste of just what’s on offer — and to get tickets — visit feastportland.com.

THE ART OF EATING sept. 6-16: the time-based Art Festival marks its 10th anniversary this year, and returns to Southeast Portland’s Washington High School for many of its late-night perfor-mances. Go early and make a night of it with dinner at great places to eat, all within a few blocks of PICA’s party central. For an informal meal, there’s the sandwich spot meat Cheese bread and the vegan red and black Cafe. For sumptuous Italian, there’s Nostrana. pica.org/tba meatcheesebread.com redandblackcafe.com nostrana.com

BITES ON BELMONT sept. 8: Midsummer’s Mississippi Street Fair has become so big it’s almost unmanageable. Fortunately there’s the tamer (by comparison) belmont District street Fair, featuring numerous carts and bites from restaurants ranging from the Italian kitchen Accanto to the Lebanese stalwart Hoda’s. And there will be plenty of iced coffee and ice cream to cool things down. belmontdistrict.org

MORE THAN A MUSICAL sept. 11-16: When a 1950s

white radio DJ decides he wants to change the world, he turns to a black club singer who is ready for her big break. In the Broadway musical “memphis,” that’s a recipe for show-stopping dance numbers and irresistible songs, all inspired by true events. The show won four 2010 Tony Awards, including best musical. portland.broadway.com

HAUL OUT THE LEDERHOSEN sept. 13-16: For almost 50 years, the mid-valley town of Mount Angel has been celebrating its German heritage with

its Oktober-fest, featuring nonstop music on four stages, street dances and more than 50 Alpine food chalets serving a variety of folk dishes. oktoberfest.org

SINK YOUR TEETH INTO THIS sept. 18-OCt. 21: Meat pies are at the heart of the plot of the Stephen Sondheim musical thriller “sweeney todd: the Demon barber of Fleet street.” Just where the meat comes from you really don’t want to know. Before your appetite becomes completely unsettled, grab a traditional British fish and chips at the Deschutes Brew Pub next door, or head to nearby Henry’s 12th Street Tavern for bangers and mash. pcs.org/sweeney deschutesbrewery.com henrystavern.com

BIG NIGHT, DONE RIGHT sept. 22: Portland Opera kicks off its 48th season with its second big Night concert and street fair. Inside Keller Auditorium, there will be a concert featuring music by Rossini, Verdi, Mozart and Wagner. The concert will also be broadcast on a big screen for people in Keller Fountain Park, where there will be food carts and a beer and wine garden, as well as additional live music. portlandopera.org

NURTURE YOUR GREEN NATURE sept. 22-23: NW Veg’s annual food celebration Veg Fest returns, filling the Oregon Convention Center with hundreds of food samples, presentations and chef’s demonstrations, all rooted in sustainable, compassionate and healthy food choices. Among the presenters is Laura Theodore, the host of Oregon Public Broadcasting’s delicious all-vegan cooking show “The Jazzy Vegetarian,” who will be cooking some of her favorite dishes. nwveg.org/vegfest £

thursDAy Hear a talk by New York Times columnist and award-winning author mark bittman (7:30-9:30 p.m. Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall, $25)

Chow down on amazing sand-wiches from over a dozen chefs including Aaron Franklin of Franklin BBQ in Austin and Molly Moon Neitzel of Seattle’s Molly Moon Ice Cream. (Director Park, 5:30-8:30 p.m., $95)

FriDAy Winemaker, restaurateur and Bon Appétit contributing editor David Lynch leads a tasting of Oregon charcuterie and pinot noir (Director Park, 12:30-1:30 p.m., $45)

Oregon bounty Grand tasting: Eat and drink your way through

the best that Oregon’s winemak-ers, brewers, chefs and food producers have to offer, plus watch cooking demos from top chefs including New York’s April Bloomfield. (Pioneer Courthouse Square, 2-5 p.m., $60 or $100 for both days)

At the Feast Night market, sample global street food from almost two dozen chefs, including Paul Qui of Uchiko in Austin and Eddie Huang of Baohaus in Manhattan. (Ecotrust Building, 6-9 p.m., $125)

sAturDAy Learn how to make rustic sauces by hand with Nancy silverton using an old-fashioned mortar and pestle (Director Park, 11:15 a.m.-1 p.m., $45)

Hear what notable food profes-sionals like chef Gabrielle hamil-

ton, writer Francis Lam and bon Appétit editor Adam rapoport have to say about America’s food culture. (Gerding Theatre, 12:30-3 p.m., $30)

Watch a Thai Street Food demo with Andy ricker and bon Appétit’s Andrew Knowlton (Director Park, 1:45-3:30 p.m., $45)

Indulge in upscale comfort food from many of Portland’s best chefs, plus high-profile out-of-towners like Chris Cosentino of Incanto in San Francisco and Hedy Goldsmith of Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink in Miami. (Multnomah Athletic Club, 6:30-9:30 p.m., $200)

suNDAy Enjoy brunch, complete with raw bar buffet, at the Woodsman Tavern ($60, reservations at 971-373-8264)

mark bittman

Gabrielle hamilton

Aaron Franklin

PHOTOGRAPH BY JOAN MARCUS

calendar


COMPILED BY GRANT BUTLER

Our picks for what to do when

Preview

Let’s FeastPortland is getting its first major, national-buzz-generating food festival this month, when Feast arrives Sept. 20-23. Top chefs from around the country will mingle with our own hometown heroes for an event that, really, you’d be a fool to miss. There will be cooking demos, classes, tastings, talks and dinners with your favorite local chefs and authors, plus big names you’ve probably only read about. But everything has a price, so you’ll have to plan ahead according to the depth of your pockets. We’ve plotted out our dream itinerary below, but to get a full taste of just what’s on offer — and to get tickets — visit feastportland.com.

THE ART OF EATING sept. 6-16: the time-based Art Festival marks its 10th anniversary this year, and returns to Southeast Portland’s Washington High School for many of its late-night perfor-mances. Go early and make a night of it with dinner at great places to eat, all within a few blocks of PICA’s party central. For an informal meal, there’s the sandwich spot meat Cheese bread and the vegan red and black Cafe. For sumptuous Italian, there’s Nostrana. pica.org/tba meatcheesebread.com redandblackcafe.com nostrana.com

BITES ON BELMONT sept. 8: Midsummer’s Mississippi Street Fair has become so big it’s almost unmanageable. Fortunately there’s the tamer (by comparison) belmont District street Fair, featuring numerous carts and bites from restaurants ranging from the Italian kitchen Accanto to the Lebanese stalwart Hoda’s. And there will be plenty of iced coffee and ice cream to cool things down. belmontdistrict.org

MORE THAN A MUSICAL sept. 11-16: When a 1950s

white radio DJ decides he wants to change the world, he turns to a black club singer who is ready for her big break. In the Broadway musical “memphis,” that’s a recipe for show-stopping dance numbers and irresistible songs, all inspired by true events. The show won four 2010 Tony Awards, including best musical. portland.broadway.com

HAUL OUT THE LEDERHOSEN sept. 13-16: For almost 50 years, the mid-valley town of Mount Angel has been celebrating its German heritage with

its Oktober-fest, featuring nonstop music on four stages, street dances and more than 50 Alpine food chalets serving a variety of folk dishes. oktoberfest.org

SINK YOUR TEETH INTO THIS sept. 18-OCt. 21: Meat pies are at the heart of the plot of the Stephen Sondheim musical thriller “sweeney todd: the Demon barber of Fleet street.” Just where the meat comes from you really don’t want to know. Before your appetite becomes completely unsettled, grab a traditional British fish and chips at the Deschutes Brew Pub next door, or head to nearby Henry’s 12th Street Tavern for bangers and mash. pcs.org/sweeney deschutesbrewery.com henrystavern.com

BIG NIGHT, DONE RIGHT sept. 22: Portland Opera kicks off its 48th season with its second big Night concert and street fair. Inside Keller Auditorium, there will be a concert featuring music by Rossini, Verdi, Mozart and Wagner. The concert will also be broadcast on a big screen for people in Keller Fountain Park, where there will be food carts and a beer and wine garden, as well as additional live music. portlandopera.org

NURTURE YOUR GREEN NATURE sept. 22-23: NW Veg’s annual food celebration Veg Fest returns, filling the Oregon Convention Center with hundreds of food samples, presentations and chef’s demonstrations, all rooted in sustainable, compassionate and healthy food choices. Among the presenters is Laura Theodore, the host of Oregon Public Broadcasting’s delicious all-vegan cooking show “The Jazzy Vegetarian,” who will be cooking some of her favorite dishes. nwveg.org/vegfest £

thursDAy Hear a talk by New York Times columnist and award-winning author mark bittman (7:30-9:30 p.m. Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall, $25)

Chow down on amazing sand-wiches from over a dozen chefs including Aaron Franklin of Franklin BBQ in Austin and Molly Moon Neitzel of Seattle’s Molly Moon Ice Cream. (Director Park, 5:30-8:30 p.m., $95)

FriDAy Winemaker, restaurateur and Bon Appétit contributing editor David Lynch leads a tasting of Oregon charcuterie and pinot noir (Director Park, 12:30-1:30 p.m., $45)

Oregon bounty Grand tasting: Eat and drink your way through

the best that Oregon’s winemak-ers, brewers, chefs and food producers have to offer, plus watch cooking demos from top chefs including New York’s April Bloomfield. (Pioneer Courthouse Square, 2-5 p.m., $60 or $100 for both days)

At the Feast Night market, sample global street food from almost two dozen chefs, including Paul Qui of Uchiko in Austin and Eddie Huang of Baohaus in Manhattan. (Ecotrust Building, 6-9 p.m., $125)

sAturDAy Learn how to make rustic sauces by hand with Nancy silverton using an old-fashioned mortar and pestle (Director Park, 11:15 a.m.-1 p.m., $45)

Hear what notable food profes-sionals like chef Gabrielle hamil-

ton, writer Francis Lam and bon Appétit editor Adam rapoport have to say about America’s food culture. (Gerding Theatre, 12:30-3 p.m., $30)

Watch a Thai Street Food demo with Andy ricker and bon Appétit’s Andrew Knowlton (Director Park, 1:45-3:30 p.m., $45)

Indulge in upscale comfort food from many of Portland’s best chefs, plus high-profile out-of-towners like Chris Cosentino of Incanto in San Francisco and Hedy Goldsmith of Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink in Miami. (Multnomah Athletic Club, 6:30-9:30 p.m., $200)

suNDAy Enjoy brunch, complete with raw bar buffet, at the Woodsman Tavern ($60, reservations at 971-373-8264)

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When Janie Lowe was growing up in rural Texas, she wanted nothing to do with her family’s country ways. “My grandmother canned, but I didn’t want to be a farm kid,” she says. Those rustic roots, though, have proved too strong to ignore — she put up a chicken coop last year and is celebrating the sixth year of her annual pickling party.

Every harvest season, Lowe and her partner Virginia Young — founders of the eco-friendly Yolo Colorhouse paint company — call together a group of friends to pickle ridiculous quantities of Oregon-grown produce. Nobody’s entirely sure how it started, but somehow a summertime whim to start making pickles became a beloved group tradition. Guests stumble in around 8 a.m. on a Sunday morning, bringing salads for the potluck lunch and boxes of their own jars. Young and Lowe sweeten the early-morning hour by greeting guests with a fresh-baked crostata and a carafe of hot coffee. Then everyone piles into cars and drives out to Kruger’s Farm on Sauvie Island.

By Deena Prichep

Photography by Randy L. Rasmussen

Friends say goodbye to summer with a day filled with brine, Bloody Marys, and tradition that’s six years strong

get together

pickling party


The sight of the farm in full harvest is a thing of beauty. Beans aren’t just your standard greens — there are Yellow Wax, Blue Lake, French and the broad Roma-nos. Carrots almost offer themselves up from the loamy soil, needing just a wiggle of the pitchfork and a tug on the tops.

When farmer Don Kruger pulls the first bunch of beets from the fields to show how it’s done, the group literally gasps at their dark red perfection. Picklers file through the fields, overfilling buckets and pallets with armfuls of red and gold beets, delicate young carrots and an as-sortment of beans. Even a growing rain shower (this is Portland, after all) can’t dampen the harvest excitement. In fact, Young says, they struggle to keep them-selves in check.

“One year we came back with 80 pounds of cucumbers — that was too much,” she laughs, remembering the

pickling party that lasted well into the evening.

After bringing home trunkfuls of pro-duce, everyone comes back to the house, kicks off muddy boots and gets down to pickling. Brine is mixed, vegetables are

scrubbed and trimmed, and big pots of water are set to boil. Young says that the spunky brine is great for all vegetables — in past years they’ve pickled fennel and summer squash from the garden. Pitchers of bloody marys, spiked with both pickles and brine from last year’s jars, are mixed up to help put people in the spirit. Lowe pulls out special extra-chile pickles they’ve reserved for this purpose and kicks up the brew even further with fresh-grated horseradish and pepper vodka. “The theme is spice,” she jokes. Although a slightly buzzed crew might not meet OSHA standards for the safest and most efficient working conditions, it definitely keeps spirits up. Glasses are raised, toasts are given and then everyone gets down to business.

After half a decade of pickling parties, Young and Lowe’s friends have the rou-tine down. They find their way around

PLayLiSTYoung and Lowe favor albums from Northwest bands, especially those with a slight homespun feel to complement a day spent pickling.

The Head and the Heart, self titled

The Decemberists, “The King Is Dead”

Bon iver, self titled

Fleet Foxes, “Helplessness Blues”

Eddie Vedder, “Ukulele Songs”

Laura Viers, “July Flame”

Michael Jackson, “The Essential Michael Jackson” (while Young and Lowe concede that this album isn’t entirely in the spirit of the others, they say it’s indeed essential for rallying flagging energy later in the day)

the kitchen, turning out piles of freshly scrubbed vegetables and pots of brine, all while laughing and joking and pull-ing up pictures of past years’ parties on their phones.

Once the prep work is done, the parade of jars begins. Glass quarts and pints are sterilized, packed full of veg-etables, filled with brine and upended to cool until a seal is formed. Rows of gleaming jars gradually line up on the counter, as the windows fog up from all the simmering.

Using this method instead of pro-cessing the jars in boiling water means the jars need to be refrigerated, unless you have a more European, devil-may-care attitude toward food safety. But, in return, you get pickles that are snappy, retaining their fresh character even a year later.

“We tried sealing them a few years

ago,” Young remembers, “and they just weren’t as crisp.” In addition to having that fresh-picked snap, the pickles are also addictively delicious. They have a sweet-sour-salty backdrop from the sea-soned vinegar, and a whole lot of kick from the chiles.

Prepping, processing and pickling en masse certainly makes for a big day — in past years Young and Lowe have gotten a bit overambitious with their harvests and were left pickling well into the evening (“It was a sea of jars,” Young remembers of the 12-hour party). These days, in an effort to keep things more manageable, they aim for a slightly smaller yield. But their commit-ment to pickling is clear. Yolo’s fall color line last year, with its carroty oranges, watery blues and garlicky whites, was called — of course — the Pickle Palette.

Janie Lowe and Virginia Young’s annual pickling party starts early, with a morning trip to Don Kruger’s farm on Sauvie Island. As the group of friends harvest their own beets, carrots and beans, their biggest worry is how to keep their enthusiasm in check.

One year, they brought home 80 pounds of cucumbers. “That was too much,” Young remembers with chagrin.

With a team of friends in the kitchen, the pickling work gets broken down into manageable tasks. Some of the women pack jars with fresh flowering dill heads and cucumbers, while others prep the vegetables

and get the big pots of brine ready to boil.


Yolo Pickles Makes about 5 quarts

this recipe yields enough brine for about 5 pounds of vegetables, though the exact amount of brine you need will vary depending on what vegetables you pickle, how tightly you pack them, etc. Young says she generally fits 1 pound of cucumbers in each 1-quart jar. but make sure you have enough extra brine ingredients on hand to whip up a bit more if needed.

bring a large pot of water to a boil. Completely submerge your jars and lids in the pot and boil for 10 minutes to sterilize. remove from the pot (being careful to drain the hot water), and place on a towel-lined counter.

While the jars are being sterilized, mix together the brine ingredients and bring to a boil.

When the jars are sterilized and removed from their bath, add the dill heads, garlic and chilies. Pack the jars with the vegetables of your choosing, taking care to pack them tight (they will shrink a bit when the hot brine hits them), and making sure they don’t stick out past the bottom-most thread on the neck of the jar.

When the brine is boiling, give it a good stir to evenly distribute the pickling spices, and ladle it into your packed jars up to the bottom-most thread on the neck of the jar (a wide-mouth funnel makes this job much neater). screw the sterilized rings and lids finger-tight onto the filled jars and then upend them. allow to cool upside-down, until they are cool to the touch and a seal has formed. store in the refrigerator (or at room temperature, if you throw food safety caution to the wind). Wait at least a week, if you can, to allow the brine to permeate. the pickles continue to improve with age.

— From Janie Lowe and Susan Laarman

Pickling Party Bloody Mary Makes about 14 serviNgs

the deliciously spicy bloody mary mix can also be enjoyed without the vodka —a variation virginia Young’s father regretfully refers to as a “bloody shame.”

2 quarts Spicy Hot V8 juice

3 to 4 tablespoons fresh-grated horseradish

1 tablespoon celery salt

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons fresh-cracked black pepper

¼ cup pickle brine

Juice of 1 lime

Ice

Vodka (go for a pepper vodka if you want things even spicier)

GaRniSHES FoR EacH GLaSS: Wedge of lime

2 to 3 pickled green beans

1 pickled gherkin

1 full stalk celery

1 olive (garlic-stuffed is preferred) in a pitcher, mix together the v8 juice, horseradish, celery salt, Worcestershire sauce, fresh-cracked black pepper, pickle brine and lime juice. adjust seasonings to taste.

To serve: Fill a pint glass with ice. Pour 1½ to 2 ounces of vodka over the ice, top with the bloody mary mixture and garnish as desired.

— From Janie Lowe and Susan Laarman £

BRinE 8 cups distilled white vinegar

8 cups water

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup coarse salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ cup pickling spices (cloves removed, and an extra handful of mustard seeds added to make up the difference)

FoR EacH 1-quaRT JaR: 2 dill flower heads

8 peeled garlic cloves

6 dried red chiles (can be adjusted up or down, depending upon your spice preference)

About 5 pounds of vegetables (cucumbers, carrots, fennel bulbs, green beans, lightly cooked and peeled beets, etc.)

TiPSover several years of pickling, Young and Lowe have learned quite a bit about what to do (and what not to do) during a pickling party. Here are their guidelines. 1. Buy peeled garlic: “i think the first year we peeled our own,” Young remembers with a pained laugh. With eight cloves per jar, and several dozen jars in play, peeling garlic can easily take a full hour — a sticky, stinky hour. Packages of prepeeled cloves are available in the produce section at most grocery stores.

2. Wear covered shoes: this tip came from guest Mary Cloose. With jars going in and out of boiling water, and sim-mering brine (not to mention sharp knives) flying around, it’s best to be careful.

3. Put a grape leaf in with your pickles: grape leaves contain a substance that blocks the enzymes that cause cucumbers to soften. stick a leaf in each jar (find a neighbor with a vine that will let you pick in exchange for some pickles), and your cukes will stay snappy and crisp. if you can’t find grape leaves, be sure to cut the tip off the blossom end of the cucumbers, which have an enzyme that causes the pickles to go limp.

4. Don’t cook: Processing dozens of pounds of pickles will turn your kitchen into something of a disaster zone, so why add to the mess? Young and Lowe have guests bring salads for a potluck lunch, or call for takeout.

5. Start your water bath and brine right away: Heating up the massive quantities of liquids required can take a lot of time, so it’s best to put pots on the stove right away. by the time your vegetables are prepped, the water will be simmering.


Small kitchen serves big purpose

PHOTOGRAPH BY LincOLn BARBOuR PHOTOGRAPH BY ROss wiLLiAm HAmiLTOn

get together / kitchen

BY dAnieLLe cenTOni

he house is just 540 square feet — a tiny pearl of a cottage nestled among shady oaks on prime Sauvie Island farmland. But what it lacks in size it more than makes up in per-

sonality and style. No surprise considering it’s the home of award-winning interior designer Jessica Helgerson and her architect husband, Yianni Doulis.

The kitchen alone is the perfect blend of rustic-modern chic. Awash in neutral white with a stunning backdrop of natural plank wood, it’s bookended by extra-large windows that let in the light, along with grassy views of the bucolic setting. “I love looking out the windows,” says Helgerson. “It’s pretty and peaceful.” Sleek drawers hide the cooking essentials behind clean lines, while open shelving holds the picturesque stuff, like dishware and canning jars, and keeps the space feeling casual.

For a family of four that grows much of its own food (“At least six months out of the year we are self-sustain-ing,” says Helgerson), storage is a challenge — although isn’t that true for every kitchen? Doulis built an ingenious pull-out cubby into the wood range hood, and the family uses the barn across the yard as a roomy annex. There’s an extra fridge, freezer and plenty of storage for equip-ment that doesn’t get daily use.

But as small as the kitchen is (technically it occupies just one wall), it feels much bigger since it’s part of the great room, sharing space with the dining and living areas. And that, says Helgerson, is the best part. “I like that we can all hang out. The kids will be reading on the couch. We’re all together. It’s really cozy.” £

T


Keeping up with the Joneses Afton Field Farm isn’t just Tyler and Alicia Jones’s livelihood, it’s their life — which they share every chance they get

get out

AT 6 A.m., Tyler And AliciA Jones, owners of Afton Field Farm, begin their day. First thing, they check on the chicks in the brooder, which is filled with fuzzy yellow baby broilers and turkeys grouped by age — 1, 2 and 3 weeks old — with lots of room to flutter about. during their third week of life, the birds will move to the pasture to follow the cattle, pecking on insects and pushing around cow pies looking for tasty edibles and, conse-quently, fertilizing, sanitizing and aerating the field.

The birds are just a fraction of the diverse spe-cies of animals on the farm, located just four miles from downtown corvallis. This year on their 106 acres, the Joneses will raise 10,000 broiler chick-ens, 60 head of cattle, 80 head of sheep, 200 hogs, 400 turkeys and almost 1,000 laying hens — all of which are part of a sustainable agro-ecosystem produced by the farm’s management-intensive rotational grazing system.

As the name implies, this method of farming is much more involved than the average large-scale operation. livestock are systematically moved around the pasture, giving grasses and other vegeta-tion time to replenish between bouts of grazing. “We consider ourselves to be grass farmers first, and then livestock farmers,” Tyler says.

By AndreA slonecKer

PHoToGrAPHy By miKe dAVis


At ages 32 and 28, respectively, Tyler and Alicia Jones are anomalies. most young people believe farming is nothing but long hours of physically grueling work for low pay and little cultural respect, which is driving the average age of American farmers to nearly 58, according to the latest census of Agriculture, conducted in 2007. The Joneses are part of a new, though small, crop of young farmers who are teetering on celebrity status and redefining what it means to be farmers. But they’ll be the first to tell you that their country-cool image is hard-won — and built on a com-munity.

learning curveThe Joneses are projecting to

gross almost $300,000 this year. Though it’s a far cry from the mil-lions of dollars earned from raising a single species on an industrial-sized, conventional farm, it’s a pretty good output for a small farm started by a young couple just four years ago.

But they’re experiencing growing pains. The farm is still too small to take on more than their two hired hands. “We can’t afford to have them and we can’t afford not to,” says Alicia. “The demand on us, market-wise, is very high, and we could supply it if we had enough workers, but managing those workers, even if they want to work for us for free as volunteers, is even more work.” They usually don’t have much experience, so it requires a major investment in training, she explains.

This comes as no surprise to michele Knaus, executive direc-tor of Friends of Family Farmers. Knaus says the biggest obstacles for potential new farmers are acquir-ing land, financing and education. “many of this generation’s farmers did not grow up as farm kids, so they aren’t inheriting the family farm and (they) are starting from scratch in all aspects, including learning how to farm,” she says.

Tyler himself learned to farm during a yearlong apprenticeship in 2002 with Joel salatin, the Virginia farmer made famous in michael Pollan’s book “The omnivore’s dilemma.” As a salatin protégé, Tyler feels pressure to be a mentor and role model. The Joneses receive dozens of emails every week from people who want to learn, volunteer or intern at the farm. even an agriculture representative from

Most people take small steps to becoming a farmer. But Alicia Jones (above and top right) just dove right in when she married Tyler (lower right, preparing to butcher 400 chickens). “It was like I jumped into a pool, and it happened to be the deep end, and I didn’t really know what water was, and I didn’t know how to swim,” she says. “I had to figure it out.” With her stylish haircut and mani-cured nails, Alicia is no typical farm wife. “It’s taken me four years to realize that you don’t have to embody the farm stereotype of overalls and a straw hat and dirty nails; I think that’s awesome, and it’s a beautiful thing, but that isn’t me. I don’t have to prove to anyone but myself what my value is on the farm.” Though she often plays a physical role, milking cows or moving sheep, she’s found her strengths are in communications, social media and building their brand. Her attention to aesthetics is apparent in their chic website, wine-label-like logo and her blog, High Heels in the Barnyard (highheelsinthebarnyard.wordpress.com). “I like hospitality. That’s in our brand, and our welcome sign and the look of the farm. I want people to feel welcome.”


Small-scale farmers like Tyler and Alicia Jones have to be proficient in more than just raising and processing their animals and taking care of their land. There’s also full-time work in managing the budget and staff, marketing their products, and handling customer relations and deliveries. Above: Tyler and Alicia check in with each other in front of the farm store at the end of a busy day, making sure they haven’t forgotten to do something.

sierra leone visited earlier this year to research ideas for sustainably feed-ing his country’s population.

As draining as it is to offer up their farm and their time to help train others, “we’re furthering the (small-farm) movement, which is what we really want to be doing,” says Tyler. “i believe that if we move back to the smaller, individually owned farm businesses that supply the local com-munity we will literally have much healthier people, as well as a health-ier, more sustainable economy.” At some point the Joneses hope to start a school where aspiring farmers can learn from them for a fee, so they can recoup some of the costs associated with sharing their time and knowledge.

Building a community clearly, their farm has done more than give the Joneses a livelihood. it’s woven them deeper into the fabric of the farming community. This, in turn, has inspired them to become more connected to their community at large.

They used to think that having a thriving business meant that their products would be served in every high-end restaurant in the state. restaurants in Portland — like clyde common, laurelhurst market, ned ludd and Park Kitchen — used to provide 80 percent of their sales. But the Jones’s goals have started to shift. They read Kristin Kimball’s book “The dirty life,” and last winter they heard the new york farmer speak about her “full-diet” csA, which supplies almost all the food her 200 members need over the course of a year. That’s when the Joneses real-ized that what they really wanted to do was build a community rather than just service restaurants, and last spring, they decided to focus on starting a vegetable component to their csA to draw people to the farm.

it’s a free-choice membership, so people come once a week to pick up their order, and they are free to choose what’s in their box. The Joneses also deliver to their buying clubs in Portland, eugene and salem once a month, but their ultimate goal is to stop delivering and get all of their members to visit the farm. They want to become hyper-local in their marketing efforts and provide a full-diet food source for their members year-round.

“We want to be a destination rather than a distributor,” says Alicia.


Her dream is to develop the farm into a venue for weddings, live concerts and other events. They aim to have a certified kitchen on the property to sell chicken and beef stock, lard and preserved fruit. They’d also like to bring a few more people on board to start a creamery.

so far their community outreach has paid off. When Tyler broke his hand a few months ago while herding cattle, they sent out a call for help and had an incredible response from the csA members: Two volunteered to do chores three times a week, some folks helped them set up for an event they were hosting, and others came to tend the garden.

But even with help, it will take time before the Joneses reach all of their goals. The old property requires constant upkeep; there’s always some-thing that needs to be fixed and there’s never enough money to make the repairs. earlier this year they needed to expand the barn, so they remod-eled it on a $200 budget by cutting down trees around the property and reclaiming materials from some of their dilapidated buildings. The addi-tion was intended to house the cattle in the winter, but it’s already too small for their growing herd. They also need a new area for the pigs to congregate in the winter, a perimeter fence, parking for on-site events and refrigeration space, and they’d really like to finish their farm store.

Though their to-do list is long and ever-growing, the Joneses have often talked about their decision to go into farming and agree that they don’t regret it. They feel lucky to have their family involved and a community of eager volunteers to help out. As Tyler says, “it really does take a village to make this happen.” And nothing could make them happier. £

aftonfieldfarm.com

As farmers, the Jones’ business is their life and it dictates their lifestyle. They don’t get many days off, not even holidays, which they give to their two employees. It also means they end up sharing their lives with the many people it takes to help them keep the farm going. One neighbor lets them use his pasture (right). And interns, neighbors, friends and family helped the couple process more than 400 chickens (top left). Tyler’s dad, a retired grade school teacher, frequently helps out on the farm, and his mom, too. This year they started paying his brother to start the vegetable operation for their CSA, which launches this fall.


I.D.

What gave you the idea to create a portland-centric food festival on a national scale? thelin: Portland has a grass-roots culinary culture. People here are driven by their own creativity, and they do what they do because they love doing it. No one had come along and said we want to start a festival here and promote what you are doing. But it needed to happen because the talent in this city is insane.

What sets Feast apart from more established festivals in towns like Austin (texas) and Aspen (Colo.)? Welch: It’s a festival that gives a sense of place. It will bring to light and illustrate the different parts of Portland’s food culture in different ways. Yes, we already

have a cocktail week and an indie wine festival, but those are very specialized events. We’ll have all those elements coming together at Feast.” thelin: The lineup is overwhelmingly locally driven. The ingredients are com-pletely local, and even all the beers served will be from Oregon.

What are locals going to get out of it — particularly those who are already very familiar with the local food scene? thelin: It will be an absolute assault of food. You will go to these events, and they will be the greatest food parties you’ve ever been to. For example, you will walk into the Sandwich Invitational and see that it features 12 to 15 chefs from around the country, including local chefs Naomi Pomeroy from Beast and Ben

Bettinger of Imperial. Every event is an opportunity to experience the local chefs you love, and all the chefs you’ve read about, in one place at one time.

most celebrity-chef-driven food festivals are big-ticket, high-society events for people outside the area. Will this be true of Feast? thelin: We’re offering an a la carte ticket option that speaks to the fact that this is a festival for Portlanders. If someone just wants to spend $30 and go to one event they can, or they can get the all-in ticket option. Our goal is to engage everyone with what makes Portland, Portland. Welch: And I think what really makes Feast stand out for locals is that it’s a multiday festival with a huge number of simultaneous events going on. You can be dining with April Bloomfield and Jenn Louis one night and Seamus Mullen the other night. Local cookbook author Diane Morgan is doing a class on root vegetables and (Bakeshop’s) Kim Boyce is doing a baking class. So if you want to jump in and get your hands dirty, we have that option. £

Feast: making portland the center of the culinary universeBy Ashley GArtlAnD

OnlIne eXtrA: read the full interview at mIXpDX.cOm

Portlanders celebrate the city’s diverse culinary scene with festivals dedicated to everything from food carts to fruit beer. But it took Mike Thelin and Carrie Welch, food industry visionaries (and experts in event planning), to bring it all together in a nationally recognized food festival.

Feast Portland hits town Sept. 20-23, bringing with it top chefs from around the country. Before the festivities began, most of which are downtown in Pioneer Square or Director Park, we sat down with the powerhouse pair and got them talking about how this mouthwatering festival came about.

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