kopenhagen fur news - january 2016

KOPENHAGEN FURJANUARY 2015

KOPENHAGEN FUR NE WS2

14 20

5 Editorial

7 Designer Mark Tan visited Namibia to learn about Swakara

8 News in Brief

14 Fur Europe – Facts before fiction

16 Nexus next season

20 Eight new fur styles developed by Kopenhagen Studio

22 An educated guess at future production

23 Events in Copenhagen

24 Easier, faster and more convenient

27 Auction Schedule and Offering 2016

30 Contact Kopenhagen Fur

CONTENTSJANUARY 2016

07

EDITOR IN CHIEF TORBEN NIELSEN

EDITOR MICHAEL ABILON

[email protected]

LAYOUT LULU XUE/FRANCES YUAN JINSONG

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ADVERTISING K ATHRINE ENGBERG / [+45] 4326 1112

COVER KOPENHAGEN STUDIO HAS DEVELOPED EIGHT

STYLES. THESE WERE FIRST REVEALED DURING

PREMIERE VISION AND CAN NOW BE SEEN IN THIS

EDITION OF KOPENHAGEN FUR NEWS AS WELL AS ON

OUR WEBSITE WWW.KOPENHAGENFUR.COM.

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JANUARY 2016 5

EDITORIALKOPENHAGEN FUR BELIEVES IN A GOOD FUTURE

The fur trade is somewhat unpredictable. We are influenced by a large number of external factors on which we have no real influence such as fashion, the weather, economic situation, retail structure etc. etc. Therefore, the start of a new season is always associated with great uncertainty and the coming season is definitely no exception. The previous season was not good as prices fell steadily with the price difference between the good and the slightly weaker qualities getting bigger and bigger and, at the September auction, we saw large price declines. Before the auction, a number of customers urged us to hold back on selling at any price even though the sales percentage would consequently be low. However, our policy is to sell, in order to ensure that prices reflect the current market situation. We do not believe that an artificially high official auction price creates confidence in the trade; on the contrary, a low sales percentage and many unsold skins would lie like a ticking bomb under the whole system. When the market is currently not good, it is - in our view – due to the economic issues in our main markets. The Russian economy is in direct decline, there is great uncertainty about the growth in China being maintained at the current high level, the European economy is weak and even in the US, they are nervous about whether or not growth can continue. This is altogether not good for the sale of luxury products. The positive side of the situation

is that fur continues to be very visible in fashion. Consumers are still keen to buy our product but, because of the uncertain economic outlook, they are buying less. The sharp decline in prices of skins has two positive consequences. Firstly, fur production will decrease significantly in the coming years. Farmers who do not produce top quality will be forced to cut down or stop production because it is no longer profitable. Conversely, due to the lower skin prices, fur products will be significantly cheaper. Since fur continues to be in fashion, the lower prices will have a great effect on the demand for our beautiful product. New customer groups

can suddenly afford to invest in a fur product. Or, in other words: the free price formation will relatively quickly restore the balance between supply and demand. Kopenhagen Fur believes in a good future for the fur trade. Within the last year, we have invested more than 150 million Danish kroner in new storage facilities in Glostrup. Similarly, we have spent considerable resources on storage facilities in China. The next season will perhaps be a little difficult, but there is light at the end of the tunnel.

Within the last year, we have invested more than 150 million Danish kroner in new storage facilities in Glostrup. Similarly, we have spent considerable resources on storage facilities in China. The next season will perhaps be a little difficult, but there is light at the end of the tunnel.

Photo: Helle Moos

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JANUARY 2016 7

DESIGNER MARK TAN VISITED NAMIBIA TO LEARN ABOUT SWAKARA

A white minivan arrives at a Swakara farm just outside Keetmanshoop in southern Namibia. A small group of pale Danes get out of the car, stand on the dry ground under the burning sun and look around with curiosity. Among the group is Mark Kenly Domino Tan, a young Danish designer who has won several prices for his work. Mark Tan has made the long journey from Denmark to Namibia to learn about the production of Swakara – the sheep which is also known as the South West African Karakul – because he is designing a collection with Swakara skins in collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur. - It is a great experience to witness the respectful and honorable production, Mark Tan says, after he and the rest of the group had been shown around the Swakara farm by two of the farm’s eight employees. It was the first time the designer got the chance to see the animals, which are going to be central for his coming designs. - It is important that the animals are treated with great care. It is also lovely to

meet all these passionate, African farmers and to see that it means a lot to them to produce these skins, says Mark Tan, who has a background in tailoring and studied at design schools both in Denmark and overseas.

BEGAN AT AN EARLY AGE His natural talent for designing beautiful clothes was recognized early on. At the age of 12, he designed his first dress for Alexandra, Countess of Frederiksborg. Mark Tan has developed his craft in some of the greatest fashion houses including Balenciaga, Sonia Rykiel and Alexander McQueen, and now at the age of 29, his brand, based on his full name Mark Kenly Domino Tan, is widely recognized and valued internationally. He has made several collections in cooperation with Kopenhagen Fur. Last year, he made numerous styles with seal skin and, in that connection, he also went to Greenland with Kopenhagen Fur to learn about the Greenlandic culture and seal hunting.

- The story behind fur in general is an important part of the design I’m responsible for, Mark says at the farm outside Keetmanshoop, which is a natural place to explore the Swakara. The region around the city is an important centre of the Swakara farming community in Namibia, because the concentration of the farms is relatively high. The Karakul sheep has been bred in Namibia since 1907, when the first sheep were imported from Central Asia. In addition to contributing to the sustainability of the Namibian society, the sheep help increase and maintain the vegetation in the barren desert, which covers 80 percent of the country. - As a design material Swakara is both fantastic and challenging to work with. It has so much character, and you actually don’t have to do a lot with it to create something very interesting and unique, Mark says. The designer’s Swakara collection will be shown at the Hong Kong International Fur & Fashion Fair 2016 in February.

At the end of October 2015, the Danish designer Mark Kenly Domino Tan visited Namibia with Kopenhagen Fur to learn about the production of Swakara skins, which he will be using in his next collection.

BY TESS TONSGAARD HEIDEMANN


The White Swakara Top Lot buyer Victor Konstantinopolskiy, fur expert from Accessory Fur, has created a brand new technique that will bring the metallic look out in this luxurious fur.

- Russian designers know this beautiful material well and they want the best quality, Victor Konstantinopolskiy says.

He is the first person in the world to create this new metallic technique and he wants the very best quality for it. It will be beneficial for both himself and his customers. Therefore, it was not a hard choice for him to bid for the White Swakara Top Lot.

According to Victor Konstantinopolskiy, Swakara fur is very popular especially among Russian designers but he has also sent fur to the haute couture world and will soon start selling to Italy. He hopes that his White Swakara Top Lot in the metallic look will be a success.

The White Swakara Top Lot was purchased for 720 DKK per skin.

Mr Ya Tao Wong bought the Sapphire Cross Males Top Lot at Kopenhagen Fur’s September auction.

Mr Ya Tao Wong is a Chinese furrier from the Hebei Province which is situated in the northern part of China. In the winter it can get very cold in this part of China and fur garments are important to keep you warm. However, fur coats are much more than that. In Mr Ya Tao Wong’s two fur shops he has many customers in their twenties and thirties who buy fur for fashion reasons and Mr Wong hopes that the Top Lot can help him promote his shops.

- The skins in the Sapphire Cross Top Lot are beautiful and I’m very pleased that I bought them. I hope that I can get a designer to do something extraordinary with these skins and hopefully the result will be stunning garments that will help me promote my two fur shops even better, says Mr Ya Tao Wong.Besides the two fur shops, Mr Ya Tao Wong also has six wholesale shops which sell skins.

The Sapphire Cross Males Top Lot was purchased for 1,040 DKK per skin.

NEW TECHNIQUE WILL BRING A METALLIC LOOK OUT IN THE WHITE SWAKARA TOP LOT

SAPPHIRE CROSS TOP LOTTO PROMOTE SHOPS

NEWS IN BRIEF

SHANGHAI WAREHOUSE READY TO RECEIVE SKINSIn 2016, Kopenhagen Fur’s customers are able to ship skins to Shanghai after purchase. Shangtex will serve as the import agent and this service will provide fast and efficient shipping to China.

If you have any questions concerning shipping to Shanghai, please contact the Shipping Department at Kopenhagen Fur.

E-mail: [email protected]

Please note, that Kopenhagen Fur also has cold storage warehouses in Tong Er Pu, Beijing and Hong Kong.

JANUARY 2016 9

Ahmet Demir has been purchasing skins from Kopenhagen Fur for 28 years and is looking forward to his 30th anniversary as a customer.

During the September auction, his company Punto purchased the Chinchilla Top Lot. His company always tries to buy the Top Lot because, by obtaining these skins, he demonstrates to the world that the business has a strict focus on quality skins and high-end clothing.

- The skins will be used for a jacket for a very special customer but, before the jacket will be made, the Top Lot will be on display in Punto’s flagship store in Antalya, Turkey, says Ahmet Demir.He has purchased Top Lots many times throughout the years and hopes to be able to purchase many more skins at Kopenhagen Fur.

- I look forward to celebrating my 30th year in the business by buying yet another Top Lot when that time comes, he says

The Chinchilla Top Lot was purchased for 800 DKK per skin.

It is not the first time that Michail Konstantinou, owner of the Konstantinou shop in Kastoria, Greece, bought the Swakara Top Lot as he did during the September auction. This year, his Swakara fur designs are going to several fairs around the world.

It was the sixth time that Michail Konstantinou bought the Black Swakara Top Lot for his designs. With this lot he plans to go to fur fairs in Hong Kong, Chicago and Kastoria. He loves Swakara fur, because he can use the material in so many different ways.

- I can make coats, sneakers, bags, dresses, pretty much everything with Swakara. Furthermore, I can use many different techniques when I work with Swakara, so it is a very versatile material. I think it is the most elegant material for garments on the market, Michail Konstantinou says.

The reason why he keeps buying the Top Lot over and over again is simple. He wants the best possible quality for his customers.

BLACK TOP LOT SWAKARA FOR FUR FAIRS

CHINCHILLA TOP LOT FOR A VERY SPECIAL JACKET

The Mahogany Velvet Female Top Lot was purchased during the September auction by Rien Leeijen, who was accompanied by Dick Morsink, a longtime friend and business associate, who assisted with the purchase.

The Top Lot will be used for something quite different from usual. Rien Leeijen, who has been a farmer since 1984 and who also has a thriving construction business, intends to sell the Top Lot again and donate the earnings to Kopenhagen Fur’s Kindergarten Project in Namibia.

- I would like to donate the earnings to the Kindergarten Project, because I feel that it is an important project, says Rien Leeijen.

- I would also love to visit one of Kopenhagen Fur s Kindergartens in Namibia sometime, he adds.His farming and construction businesses span worldwide but his headquarters are located in Holland where he originally comes from.

The Mahogany Velvet Female Top Lot was purchased for 500 DKK per skin.

TOP LOT FOR CHARITY


NEWS IN BRIEF

REMEMBER TO REGISTER

SORTING COURSES 2016

Customers and buyers travelling from countries requiring a visa will benefit greatly from registering upon their arrival at Kopenhagen Fur.

Customers and Buyers - How to register:Registration at the auctions is a two-stage process that is both quick and easy.

- Step one: Customers and buyers must register beforehand at www.kopenhagenfur.com or send an e-mail to [email protected]. Please inform us how many guests you are bringing or intend to bring.

- Step two: Customers and buyers are also required to register at the main entrance upon arrival.

Kopenhagen Fur Academy is pleased to announce the dates of the sorting courses in 2016:

Two three-week sorting and auction procedures courses:

From 29 March to 13 AprilFrom 6 June to 21 June

The courses are well attended, so please register early. This could be done online at www.kopenhagenfur.com under the top menu Auction, About-us, Sorting courses.For further information, please contact Ms Annette Hindborg, the Customer Department.

Phone no.: +45 4326 1440 Fax no.: +45 4326 1449 E-mail: [email protected]

Buyers’ registration – How to register to get your buyer number for the sale:

Buyers arriving during inspection or sales are required to register by signing the Buyer’s Register form as early as possible in order to get their buyer number sign and have seats allocated in the auction room.

As registration may take some time, please register well in advance of the sales.

On inspection days, registration takes place in the Customer Department.

On selling days, registration takes place at the Customer Service Counter in front of the auction room.

NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS WHEN APPLYING FOR VISAWhen requesting an invitation letter from Kopenhagen Fur in order to apply for a visa to visit Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions,

you are kindly requested to contact our Representative Office in Beijing at this new e-mail address [email protected].

JANUARY 2016 11

CLOSED DURING CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEARDue to Christmas and New Year holidays, Kopenhagen Fur is closed on the following days:

Thursday, 24 December 2015 and Friday, 25 December 2015Thursday, 31 December 2015 and Friday, 1 January 2016

DKK 528,249 DONATED TO CHARITY IN NAMIBIAFarmers selling at Kopenhagen Fur have given a lot of support to Kopenhagen Fur’s Kindergarten Project in Namibia. During the 2015 season, farmers have donated more than 18,000 skins to the project. The skins were sold at the June and September auctions and fetched DKK 528,249. The money will be spent on supporting more than 30 pre-primary schools in Katutura, a large slum area outside Windhoek. Each year, a lucky draw is held among Kopenhagen Fur’s employees and farmers who make donations to Namibia. The prize is a trip to Namibia to visit some of the pre-schools and meet with the organisation that runs the project for Kopenhagen Fur in Namibia, S.P.E.S. Charity. This year’s winners were Lea Weile and Martin Johannesen from Kopenhagen Fur and the farmers Lene and Anders Skovrup who were joined by Inge Østermand, Project Manager. - It is always an emotional experience to visit the kindergartens. This year, we visited Butterfly Pre-School, one of the largest kindergartens in our project and the one that has been in the project from the very beginning nine years ago.

The development of this kindergarten is fantastic. Nine years ago the kindergarten was only a shack with 20 children, now it is three brick buildings with four classrooms. Marguerita, the owner of the kindergarten, has nearly 100 children in her kindergarten and even runs computer classes for older children in the afternoon, says Inge Østermand. The purpose of these visits to the kindergartens in Namibia is to give the farmers as well as the employees at Kopenhagen Fur an opportunity to see the difference that these donations make for the children in the kindergartens.


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SCANDIC GLOSTRUP TRANSFORMEDAfter a thorough renovation of meeting facilities, restaurant, bar and common facilities, Scandic Glostrup is ready to present a modern and attractive hotel. Scandic Glostrup has undergone an impressive transformation. The hotel in Glostrup now has eight meeting rooms and the hotel can now accommodate arrangements with up to 430 participants. Also, the new bar and restaurant means that guest are able to enjoy their meal in a relaxing environment.

- The purpose of the expensive renovation was to upgrade the Scandic Glostrup into a modern setting for conferences while still maintaining an atmosphere that makes our guests feel at home. We are very excited about the positive feedback that we are receiving from the guests that have experienced our new facilities. Our location has always been unique and now our physical surroundings live up to the expectations that one can have of a modern meeting centre. A lovely and inspiriring hotel as well as bar and restaurant for all of our guests, says Peter Kjerkegaard, Hotel Manager at Scandic Glostrup.

Scandic Glostrup has 120 rooms.

NEWS IN BRIEF

KOPENHAGEN AUCTION APP IS AVAILABLE

It is no longer necessary to be present in the auction room to be completely updated on the latest skin prices. Kopenhagen Fur has recently introduced the Kopenhagen Fur Auction app, whereby one can follow the annual auctions. The data in the app is updated quickly. In fact, viewers can see the sales figures shortly after the gavel has come down. All that is required is a smart phone or tablet with an internet connection.

Good overviewApart from the constantly updated sales figures, you can also read auction news, statistics and a listing of when the auctions are being held.

The Auction app is available in English and Chinese so that international buyers can keep track of the latest developments, but the app will also be of interest for mink farmers who want an overview of the latest skin prices.

The Auction app is available for all major platforms.


- What it really comes down to is separation, keeping facts and fiction apart. In order to do so, the fur trade was required to establish its own voice on the European political scene. Doing just that was the only reasonable response to the widespread misinformation that existed, says Mette Lykke Nielsen, Head of Public Affairs in Fur Europe. Failing to establish said voice and participate as a unified group would simply allow activist groups to sway the political landscape in their favour, at times an ungrateful task due to the aggressive nature of the opposition, but certainly a necessary one. Establishing a fact based and informative presence in the European political landscape became Fur Europe’s primary objective. - Our job is not to sell fur. Our job is to create and maintain a healthy political environment for the fur trade to thrive in,

says Mette Lykke Nielsen.

PAVING THE WAYPrior to the first ‘This is Fur’ event in 2014, the European fur trade had limited access to parliamentarians and other key stakeholders on the European political scene. Attempting to create a fruitful network, whilst busting the many myths and misinformation regarding fur production and the fur trade as a whole, was a daunting task. Responding to the already established myths and the widespread misinformation compelled Fur Europe to create ‘This is Fur’. Myths and misinformation have been a longstanding problem demanding communicative efforts in the fur trade. Identifying and addressing them on a public platform, as well as in bilateral meetings, is crucial before any meaningful and constructive debate can ensue.

- We have identified a general and genuine need for information. When sufficiently informed, myths and misconceptions begin to falter and the newly acquired facts will form a different perspective. This is particularly evident regarding the fur trade. The more you know, the less you oppose the business, says Mette Lykke Nielsen. ‘This is Fur’ made its debut in the European Parliament in 2014 and succeeded in establishing a platform from which to act, a foundation for networking, contact creation, and an opportunity to provide the political landscape with scientifically proven facts and information regarding the fur trade. Fur Europe’s presence was well received by the vast majority of parliamentarians and has proven valuable when the future of the European fur trade is on the political agenda, be it in regard to regulation,

FUR EUROPE – FACTS BEFORE FICTION The second edition of Fur Europe’s information event ‘This is Fur’ hosted more than 150 meetings with Members of Parliament, commission representatives, and various other stakeholders in and around the European Parliament. But what is the purpose of this effort?

BY ROLF ERIK HANSEN

JANUARY 2016 15

legislation, or scientific methods for assessing animal welfare in professionally managed productions.

A RUNNING STARTThe notoriously difficult sequel spanned over three days from 29 September to 1 October 2015. Based on the successful debut, the sequel got off to a great start. - This time around, it was quite noticeable that we had an already established platform. People knew us. They knew our position and purpose. This enabled us to address issues at hand as opposed to busting the myths that surround the fur trade, Mette Lykke says. According to Mette Lykke there were noticeable changes during the second event when compared to the first, one of which was the willingness to discuss relevant issues with the representatives from the fur trade. Parliamentarians, commission

representatives and other key stakeholders expressed an increasing acceptance of the fur trade as an important business with high ethical and corporate standards. - During the last event and afterwards we have been approached by parliamentarians wanting to know more about interesting topics such as sustainability and traceability in the fur trade. Being approached indicates that we have indeed reached one of our most important short-term goals, a fact-based platform from which to debate and provide information when needed, says Mette Lykke Nielsen.

THE ROAD AHEADFur Europe’s future activities are based on whatever issues may arise in the European Parliament, as well as an increasing focus these next years on the national political and public agenda. More

often than not, the topics to address are unpredictable in nature and require an acute awareness of and insight into the political landscape. Larger political activities, such as formulating a new strategy for animal welfare in Europe, are the exceptions that prove the rule. That being said, Fur Europe expects the discussions to shift towards the Member States these coming years and revolve around the national political scene throughout Europe. - Long-term goals are often quite abstract and subject to interpretation. Essentially, Fur Europe aims to maintain the business environment in which we exist, to make sure it is fair, stable, and abides by equal rules and regulations across Europe. For us to succeed in that regard, the most important thing we can do is to make sure that any and all discussions concerning fur are based on facts - not fiction, says Mette Lykke Nielsen.


BY MICHAEL ABILON

NEXUS NEXT SEASON

- We have experienced an enormous interest from international players who wish to collaborate with Nexus, says Julie Maria Iversen, Head of Kopenhagen Nexus.Out of the 16 co-projects, five are with fashion partners that Nexus has collaborated with earlier. Kopenhagen Nexus agrees to work with its partners for a three-year period and these five partners are currently being supported in this way. - We have a very good ongoing collaboration with these five designer brands because we can connect them with manufacturers that we know very well and who are suited for that particular task, says Julie Marie Iversen. Among these five designer brands are SOS Sportswear, who primarily create fashion sportswear, Belsac, who make accessories and Saks Potts, a young pair of designers who make womenswear.

FUR EXCITEMENT IN KOREAApart from previous design co-projects, Kopenhagen Nexus are going to cooperate with two Asian Designers, Song Jung Wan and Lie Sang Bong, two of the largest brands in their home country, South Korea. - We are very excited about working with these designers. Early in 2015, they initially sought inspiration on how to rethink fur designs and we were happy to receive them here in Copenhagen, where they met our furriers, presented their own ideas and saw some of our techniques, says Julie Maria Iversen. Whenever Nexus launches a collaboration, it provides business for manufacturers and skin suppliers alike, which is the purpose of Nexus; to bridge the gaps in the fur trade between designers, manufacturers and skin suppliers. - But these collaborations also create

many activities for all the departments within KiCK. It gives our furriers knowledge about beautiful, commercial fur styles and it gives us fur styles to lend to associates and players within the trade, says Julie Maria Iversen.

EXPANDING NETWORKS IN THE MIDDLE EASTKopenhagen Nexus will also begin co-projects with three designers from the

TOTAL CO-PROJECTS IN 2016

• 16 design co-projects.• 103 new fur styles based on these 16 collaborations • Distribution of these styles will take place via approx. 150 retailers worldwide.

Kopenhagen Fur’s department within fashion brand collaboration, Kopenhagen Nexus, has 16 worldwide design co-projects coming up in 2016, thus creating business for several manufacturers and skin suppliers within the network of Kopenhagen Fur.

JANUARY 2016 17

Middle East: Kanzi, which means treasure in Arabic and consists of two designers, Shk Amal Mana Rashid Al Maktoum and Mrs. Raghda Taryam, Bahrain based Noon by Noor, who creates womenswear, and Razan Alazzuni, who studied arts and design in Boston. - Each of these designers has visited us with their respective design teams. They all presented their own visions, which is very important. We work with their ideas and explain which furrier techniques can be used to achieve their design goals. When it comes to designs, the ideas always come from them. We simply offer technical guidance, says Julie Maria Iversen.

CHINESE COLLABORATIONKopenhagen Nexus will also work with Prolivon, a Shangtex subsidiary, which has become one of the largest fashion companies in China in a short time. - The Prolivon design team visited us this summer and were extremely excited about the collaboration. According to the initial agreement nine styles will be co-developed, but following their visit here, they have made approx. 60 individual designs, simply to test their visions. This is an incredibly successful outcome, considering this is Prolivon s first venture into fur designs, says Julie Maria Iversen.In China, during the recent Shanghai Fashion Week, the Italian fashion company,

Numerootto, also presented their latest collection. This company creates

womenswear and has also signed up for a co-project with Kopenhagen Nexus.

ABOUT NEXUS:

• Nexus is a department within KiCK, Kopenhagen Fur’s creative centre.• Nexus assists fashion and textile brands globally with the integration of fur into their collections in order to support global fur demand and fur product innovation.• Nexus undertakes the full production management of the fur styles on behalf of the brands.• Kopenhagen Nexus outsources the fur production to manufacturers within Kopenhagen Fur’s network, who thereby gain more business through Nexus’ brand partners. • Kopenhagen Nexus educates its brand partners in handling the fur processes themselves, which means that brand partners typically cooperate with Nexus for three consecutive seasons.

NEW DANISH CO-PROJECTS

• Storm & Marie – The two Danish twins, Signe Elisabeth and Kim Vedel, have based their company in Copenhagen, where they create womenswear.• Rabens Saloner – This company will focus solely on Swakara fashion during their first year working with Nexus.• Gudrun & Gudrun– This company primarily works with knitwear. They will create 4 styles in 2016 in collaboration with Nexus.• One Collection – This represents Nexus´ first co-project with a furniture manufacturer. One Collection creates furniture made of Silverblue mink skins. • Les Deux - Founded in 2009 in Copenhagen. Has created a niche in the market for streetwear.

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BY SOFIE VON MEHREN PRIP

EIGHT NEW FUR STYLES DEVELOPED BY KOPENHAGEN STUDIO

The furriers from Kopenhagen Studio, Kopenhagen Fur’s creative workshop, are always very busy. They work with both Danish and foreign designers and furriers when they visit the Studio to explore and develop ideas, designs and techniques for fur together with Kopenhagen Studio. At the same time, the furriers from Kopenhagen Studio travel around the world to teach young design students how to incorporate fur in their designs. This educational and inspirational initiative, called Imagine, is a part of Kopenhagen Fur’s new global collaboration with some of the largest fashion and design universities in Asia and Europe. In spite of all this traveling, the furriers from Kopenhagen Studio still have time to present their ideas of the new trends in

fur fashion. This year, Kopenhagen Studio have produced their own eight fascinating fur styles that were revealed in September 2015 at Première Vision, the world’s largest textile fair in Paris. According to Thomas Andersen, Head of Studio, the workshop’s own production of fur styles is one of their most important jobs. It gives the furriers a freedom to work with new fur trends and techniques without being concerned about the production price or whether the fur style is more artistic than commercial. The furriers are free to imagine whatever they want and only their imagination sets the limit. - Our furriers and our skilled students participate in the process of developing our own styles. During the development phase it is important that the techniques lead the way for the design and not the

other way around. Through reforming techniques, patterns and materials Kopenhagen Studio’s own developed fur styles should support innovation and design in the fur fashion, says Thomas Andersen.

THE CREATIVE PROCESSThe process begins with Kopenhagen Studio’s furriers sharing ideas for new fur techniques and patterns. The furriers travel a lot and the impressions from their trips inspire them. One furrier may have seen a beautiful pattern in an old rug in Japan, while another may have fallen for the contouring in an old pile of newspapers in Kazakhstan. These impressions become ideas that slowly develop into a mood board made collectively by all the furriers. - The preliminary part of our work with

Kopenhagen Fur’s creative studio has developed eight fur styles by using innovative techniques. They will revolutionize the perception of how fur as a material can be used.

JANUARY 2016 21

the new fur styles is very important, and it is an exciting process to be a part of. We talk about the places we visited, the people we met and designs that moved us. In a way the mood board becomes the sum of what we have experienced, says Mikkel Østergaard Schou, Furrier Trainee. Once the mood board is finished, the furriers start developing techniques. To begin with, they create up to 70 new fur techniques, and then they choose around 5-10 techniques they continue to work with. Afterwards, they draw the sketches for their final designs. However, the techniques that are not chosen are not discarded. All techniques earn a place in Kopenhagen Studio’s design library and they will be used later on for teaching and dissemination, when the furriers visit the universities

participating in Imagine, Kopenhagen Fur’s talent competition.

FUR MOSAICS Normally, the furriers work with different fur types, but this year mink and its many possibilities will be the focus. Therefore, all eight styles are made of mink. - It has been challenging and exciting to work with mink in new ways. Of course we have used our fur sewing machines a great deal, but we have also used regular sewing machines to achieve a rawer look. We have used backstitch and we have shaved, dyed and plucked the fur, all to show just how many different forms mink fur can take, says Mikkel Østergaard Schou. This year, especially one technique stands out and it has been used for several fur styles. The furriers have assembled

smaller pieces which, when combined, create a colourful picture with a graphic expression. The shape and silhouette almost become 3D. One of the styles in the collection is made by using eight different techniques resulting in a design full of colours, details and textures combining the impressions from the furriers’ many travels. - Mink can be used for so much more than long brown coats. We would like to show this to the design students when we visit them around the world through Imagine. Korea participates in the design competition and the country has a very traditional perception of the uses of mink fur. So, when we visit the universities our techniques should change the design students’ perception of the material, says Thomas Andersen.

Kopenhagen Studio designed eight styles in total. Visit www.kopenhagenfur.com to see all of the styles.


BY ROLF ERIK HANSEN

AN EDUCATED GUESS AT FUTURE PRODUCTION

The fur trade will most likely experience a decrease in the skin production in the coming season, due to a significant number of farmers discontinuing production in China. Using the September auction as an example, only the large skins of high quality obtained prices, which fully covered the production costs of a mink skin. For a number of farmers, the prices were simply too low to sustain a profitable business. The farmers who have focused on expanding their production within the last couple of years were severely financially hit because of this. Many of these farmers have tied up a significant amount of their financial means acquiring new facilities and a large number of mink, effectively giving them no financial lee way when skin prices dropped.

- Naturally, this causes a reaction. Using China as an example, Kopenhagen Fur predicted a production of approximately 20 million skins or less in 2015. Compared to 30 million skins in 2014, this marks a significant decrease, says Per Knudsen, Chief Auctioneer at Kopenhagen Fur. This decrease, however, will not result in an immediate decrease of the number of mink skins on the market as a considerable number of skins could be stored in warehouses until being sold. - Over a period, when the existing stock has been sold, we will begin to see a comparative decrease in available skins as well. It is impossible to say when, says Per Knudsen. The volatility of any given market

complicates the matter even further. Some farmers might choose to keep their skins and wait for a more favourable market, where the skins will be put up for sale. Other uncertainties influencing the market include winter weather, oil prices, general economic situations globally or nationally, conditions on new markets, fashion and innovative use of mink. - How these factors will come into play and to what degree is simply impossible to predict. However, it will be the same result – a decrease in production will eventually lead to a decrease in the number of available skins. An educated guess would be that this process could last a couple of years and that skin quality, size and end user preferences will play an increasingly significant role, says Per Knudsen.

When attempting to predict the future, one has to look into last year’s production figures. In addition to that, luck plays a substantial part, when making the necessary assumptions; what remains is an educated guess.

JANUARY 2016 23

EVENTS IN COPENHAGEN5-11 JANUARY 2016

OPERA

IL TRITTICOPuccini is the master of emotion, and in Il trittico

we explore the whole register of the soul.

Il trittico begins with red-hot jealousy in Il

tabarro in which Michele and Giorgetta lead

an unhappy life after the loss of their beloved

son. The drama continues in Suor Angelica; the

story of a group of marginalised young women

who have violated society’s laws and norms.

Finally, the mood is lifted with Gianni Schicchi,

a cheerful comedy that lampoons greedy heirs

who cheat their way to inheriting the fortunes

of deceased relatives – only to fall victim

themselves to the cunning Gianni Schicchi.

Il trittico is performed in Italian with Danish

subtitles.

〉5, 8 AND 10 JANUARY

〉THE OPERA

〉KGLTEATER.DK

BALLET

LA SYLPHIDEAugust Bournonville’s ballet from 1836 is a

milestone in the romantic ballet. The drama about

James’ meeting with the unattainable sylph and

the demonic Madge ushered in a new style where

characters suddenly got soul and depth. George

Balanchine’s ballet theme and variations from 1947

is a feast of sublime dance and are among the

finest and most difficult in classical ballet.

〉6 AND 7 JANUARY

〉THE ROYAL THEATRE

〉KGLTEATER.DK

CONCERT

TWO VIENNESE NEW YEAR’S CONCERTSThe Schönbrunn Festival Orchestra Vienna

offers a unique opportunity to experience

a festive classic New Year’s concert live in

Falconer Hall (8 January).

Die Wiener Operetta Festival presents their New

Year’s concert with soloists, chorus, ballet and

orchestra - a total of 70 participants. Culminating of

course with the known Radetsky March (9 January).

〉8 AND 9 JANUARY

〉FALCONER HALL

〉FALCONERSALEN.DK

CONCERT

AT THE SANDSDR Big Band has established a festive New Year’s

tradition with concerts, steeped in the spirit of

the Sands Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas, where

Frank Sinatra and Count Basie Orchestra tread the

boards in the 60s. Enjoy Curtis Stigers as soloist

performing hits like Fly Me To The Moon and I’ve

Got You Under My Skin.

〉9 AND 10 JANUARY

〉DR CONCERT HALL

〉DR.DK

EXHIBITION

Gerda WegenerGerda Wegener was part of the artistic avant-

garde in Paris in the 1920s. She was well

known for her piquant works featuring women

with crimson pouts and bedroom eyes. Gerda

Wegener’s own life was just as pioneering, not

least her relationship with her husband and

favourite model Einar, who underwent one of

the worlds’ first sex-change operations. At this

major exhibition, Arken takes a fresh look at

Gerda Wegener’s life and works.

〉UNTIL MAY 2016

〉ARKEN MUSEUM

〉ARKEN.DK


EASIER, FASTER AND MORE CONVENIENT

Kopenhagen Fur’s five annual auctions are a global market place for the fur trade. The global nature of the auctions implies that a continuously decreasing number of customers requests invoices in Danish currency. This development is particularly evident when up to 93 % of all invoices are exchanged into foreign currencies – traditionally US dollars and Euros. Due to the growing fur sales in China and the increasing number of Chinese customers, attending the auctions in Denmark, Kopenhagen Fur is now offering the opportunity to handle invoicing in CNY. Issuing the invoices directly in CNY seems to

be an obvious option in the future. - We realized an interest for this last year so we implemented the facility for customers to have their invoices in CNY. The September auction was the second time offering this option and it has been a success. We now expect a significant increase in the use of this service, says Brian Tufvesson, Head of Customer Department at Kopenhagen Fur.

DECREASING THE RISKDealing with foreign currencies on a global market is exposed to the risk of devaluations and fluctuations in the currencies involved. A

partnership with Bank of China has enabled Kopenhagen Fur to offer customers the possibility of having their invoices issued in CNY. - Prior to this arrangement, Chinese customers in particular experienced a risk in connection with trading in foreign currencies. Trading in US dollars, as opposed to their own currency, meant that they were vulnerable to devaluations and fluctuations, thus creating a margin of insecurity regarding a potential loss of profits, an insecurity, which the new currency option aims to diminish or even eliminate for this group of customers, says Brian Tufvesson.

FACTS

EASIERChinese customers are now able to convert Danish Kroner to Renminbi at the rate of exchange prevailing at the exact time of conversion. This exchange rate will then be fixed at the time of conversion and will not be changed. Consequently, the exchange rate is not depending on the time and date when the payment is made, thus the Chinese customers do not need to order foreign currencies in advance. For this reason, the accounting process in Tariff, VAT and cost calculation becomes simpler and easier for the customers.

FASTERIf the customer has an account with Bank of China, cross-border payments will be available on Kopenhagen Fur’s account within one working day – making trade faster.

MORE CONVENIENTDealing in the global fur trade should become more convenient, since customers are able to contact any local branch of Bank of China, if questions regarding cross-border trade payments or financial solutions should arise.

Kopenhagen Fur’s cooperation with Bank of China aims to negate the risk involved in the exchange of foreign currency. Purchasing skins at Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions becomes easier, faster and more convenient.

BY ROLF ERIK HANSEN

JANUARY 2016 25

Customers can now have their invoices in CNY.


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A C C E S S O R Y C R E A T O R S

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JANUARY 2016 27

JANUARY FEBRUARY APRIL JUNE SEPTEMBERINSPECTION 5-7 11-16 7-13 15-21 14-20 AUCTION 8-11 17-23 14-21 22-29 21-29 MINK

Black x x (x)Mahogany x x x x xBrown x x x x xGlow x x x x xPearl Beige x x x x xGolden Pearl (x) (x) (x)Palomino x x x (x) xWhite x x x x xSapphire x x (x)Silverblue x x x x xBlack/Brown Cross x x x x xSilverblue/Sapphire Cross x x x x xVar. Cross incl. Pearl/Palomino Cross (x) (x) (x)Pastel (x) (x)Violet x Blue Iris x Jaguar x (x)Stardust x Cinnamon x (x)

OTHER SKINS

Chinchilla x x x x xSeal skins x x x x xSwakara x xFoxes x x x x xRex Rabbits x x

KOPENHAGEN FUR

AUCTION SCHEDULE AND OFFERING 2016

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A C C E S S O R Y C R E A T O R S

Micillo stands for quality,making everything else just an accessory!

Visit our website

Breeders and Breeders Lowgrades will be offered in June in the types where winterskins are also available.

Where (x) is indicated, the types will be offered when an appropriate number of skins are available.

We reserve the right to make changes.

Rent a car at your special “fur rates”

Please call +45 32 50 30 90 or [email protected] or contact Kopenhagen Fur at +45 43 26 10 00 or [email protected]

• Luxury cars• Automatics • Busses

We will provide you with the car you need during the auction.

KopenhagenFUR_190bx135h_februar.indd 1 20/11/14 15.12

Bang & Olufsen Kgs. Nytorv, Kgs. Nytorv 26 Tel. +45 33 11 14 15, [email protected]

www.bang-olufsen.com

more than meets the eye and ear. When you feel the urge to go beyond compromise, take a closer look atBang & Olufsen. Our products are known for their unique appearance and spectacular performance.

But there’s more to Bang & Olufsen than meets the eye. Decades of constantly improving the user experience in actualhome environments have resulted in the BeoLink system. BeoLink allows you to enjoy true sound anywhere in your home across speakers, audio equipment and even televisions. You control everything seamlessly via one remote.

Visit our flagship store at Kgs. Nytorv, and let us take you everywhere you want to go.

JANUARY 2016 29

RADISSON BLU ROYAL

Hammerichsgade

1611 V

www.radissonblu.com

COPENHAGEN HOTELS

We urge you to make your hotel reservations as early as possible.

NEW cancellation policy for 2016 : For individual reserva-tions you can change or cancel 48 hours prior to arrival, or you will be charged with the first night.

For group reservations :

Until 45 days before the first arrival, the reser-vation can be cancelled without any cost. After this date a maximum of 50% of the original res-ervation can be cancelled after the below men-tioned rules:

- Until 15 days before the first arrival, 50 % of the original reservation can be cancelled without any cost- Until 10 days before the first arrival, 25 % of the original reservation can be cancelled without any cost- Rooms not cancelled seven days before the first arrival will be charged 100 % Date changes will be ac-cepted without any cost on the condition that the hotel has available rooms on the alternative dates.If the rooms, as a result of lack of available rooms, are cancelled, the hotel refers to the above listed cancellation terms.

ADMIRAL

Toldbodgade 24,

1253 K

www.admiralhotel.dk

HILTON

Ellehammersvej 20,

2770 Kastrup

www3.hilton.com

FIRST

Vesterbrogade 23-29,

1620 V

www.firsthotels.com

CROWN PLAZA HOTEL

Ørestads Blvd. 114-118,

2300 S

www.crowneplaza.com

GLOSTRUP PARK

Hovedvejen 41,

2600 Glostrup

www.parkhotel.dk

MAYFAIR HOTEL

Helgolandsgade 3,

1653 V

www.clarionhotel.com

RADISSON BLU

SCANDINAVIA

Amager Blv. 70,

2300 S

www.radissonblu.com

MARRIOTT

Kalvebod Brygge 5,

1560 V

www.marriott.com

SCANDIC HVIDOVRE

Kettevej 4.

2650 Hvidovre

www.scandichotels.com

SCANDIC CPH

Vester Søgade 6,

1601 V


SCANDIC GLOSTRUP

Roskildevej 550,

2600 Glostrup


SKT. PETRI - 5 STARS

Krystalgade 22,

1172 K

www.firsthotels.com

BELLA SKY COMWELL

Center Boulevard 5,

2300 S

www.bellaskycomwell.com


CONTACT KOPENHAGEN FURE-MAIL: [email protected]

PHONE: +45 4326 1000

FAX: +45 4326 1126

[email protected]

TORBEN NIELSEN CEO

+45 4326 1042 (SECR.)

INGE ØSTERMAND SECRETARY

+45 4326 1042

CUSTOMER [email protected]

BRIAN TUFVESSON HEAD OF CUSTOMER DEPT.

+45 4326 1401

BIRGIT FRIIS SECRETARY

+45 4326 1431

ANNETTE HINDBORGKEY ACCOUNT MANAGER

+45 4326 1440

ANNE LUNNKEY ACCOUNT MANAGER

+45 4326 1443

CHRISTIANE RAUTENBERGKEY ACCOUNT MANAGER+45 4326 1442

LOUISE HEIMANNKEY ACCOUNTMANAGER

+45 7213 5028

QIQI KONG MADSENCURRRENCY PROJECT MANAGER

+45 2795 7078

AHMET AYDINKEY ACCOUNT MANAGER

+45 4326 1441

PER KNUDSENCHIEF AUCTIONEER

+45 4326 1208

STIG REINHOLDSALES MANAGER, AUCTIONEER

+45 4326 1209

LARS SKJOLDEGAARDAUCTIONEER

+45 4326 1021

AUCTIONEERS

PAUL PEDERSENCHIEF AUCTIONEER

+45 4326 1203

KASPER S. REINBACHERHEAD OF MARKETINGAUCTIONEER+45 4326 1422

KLAUS HARLEVAUCTIONEER

+45 4326 1415

SHIPPING [email protected]

LINE SPANGSHIPPING MANAGER

+45 4326 1472

ANDERS NEUHAUS CHRISTENSENSHIPPING COORDINATOR+45 7213 2842

CHRISTINE T. HANSENSHIPPING COORDINATOR

+45 7213 2844

KARINA KJÆR NIELSENSHIPPING COORDINATOR

+45 7213 2845

PELLE ANDERSENSHIPPING COORDINATOR

+ 45 7213 2841

INGE LIUMARKETINGCOORDINATORTSING HUA MBA MOB. +86 139 0106 0450

ANGELA LIUCUSTOMER COORDINATOR/VISA

MOB. +86 138 1055 4761

BEIJING OFFICECHRIS CUIGENERAL MANAGER

MOB. +86 139 1093 7964

ANDY CHENMANUFACTURECOORDINATOR

MOB. +86 159 0143 7370

LISA YUCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

MOB. +86 139 1156 8019

AREA MANAGERS

LEO BOUTISAREA MANAGER, GREECE

MOB. +30 693 242 5858

ANDREJ RUMJANCEVAREA MANAGER, RUSSIA

+45 4326 1103

JULIE MARIA IVERSEN HEAD OF KOPENHAGEN NEXUS

+45 2268 0974

KOPENHAGEN NEXUSKICK

KIM BARUEL ERICHSENQUALITY MANAGER

+ 45 4326 1310

QUALITY [email protected]

FARMER [email protected]

JESPER LAUGE CHRISTENSENHEAD OF FARMER SERVICE+45 4326 1207

RECEPTION/[email protected]

KATHRINE ENGBERGFRONT OFFICE MANAGER

+45 4326 1112

LINE JENSENRECEPTIONIST

+45 4326 1280

MICHAEL STADIDIRECTOR OF KiCK

+45 2268 0916

OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST

68085_CROWN14_M116233-0149_A4_MAG_COOP.indd 1 16/06/14 11.43

32 哥本哈根皮草资讯

Infelber (Exports) Ltd4 Elthorne Road, London N19 4AG

Tel +44(20) - 7281 1966 E-mail [email protected] Fax +44(20) - 7281 2398

Eurasia Furs LtdUnit O, 10/Kaiser Estate Phase III

9-11A Hok Yuen Street, Hunghom, Kowloon, HK

Tel +852 2311 9803 E-mail [email protected] Fax +852 2721 3081

Infelber (Exports) Ltd4 Elthorne Road, London N19 4AG

Tel +44(20) - 7281 1966 E-mail [email protected] Fax +44(20) - 7281 2398

Eurasia Furs LtdUnit O, 10/Kaiser Estate Phase III

9-11A Hok Yuen Street, Hunghom, Kowloon, HK

Tel +852 2311 9803 E-mail [email protected] Fax +852 2721 3081

DAVIDMORGAN

MICHAELLEPSKI

JACKFELBER

kopenhagen fur news - january 2016

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