installing corian type kitchen counter tops...

Installing Corian® Type Kitchen Counter Tops

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1014 Luke St., Irving, TX 75061 Phone: 800-593-8450 Fax: 866-747-7612

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Straight Top

Add the total length of the Deck in Lineal Inches, add 3 ½ inches for each side splash. Deck =120”+ (2) side splash 3 ½ + 3 ½ = 127 ”

L-shaped Top with Peninsula

A Peninsula that is 27” deep can be made from a standard Top without additional material. A Peninsula that is greater than 27” deep requires additional material. The width and length of the overhang will add extra square footage. Multiply width x length divided by 144 = sq. ft. Deck =120”+ (1) side splash 3 ½ + 75 = 198 ½

Peninsula 12” x 75” = 900” ÷ 144 = 6.25 sq. ft.

U-shaped Top

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L-shaped Top

Deck =120”+ (1) side splash 3 ½ + 75 = 198 ½”

U-shaped Top with Peninsula

Deck =120”+ 3 ½ + 75 + 75 = 273 ½

For “Premium Kits” we can still make wide width countertops. These will include an up-charge for the joining and pre-sanding and are shipped in most cases as a full piece, no edges attached. Up-charge determined by size.

If you have a U-shaped kitchen that is surrounded by all three walls. Total the lineal inches of each deck.

Deck =120”+ 3 ½ + 3 ½ + 75 + 75 = 277”

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On an L-shaped kitchen, the end of the long deck adds one 3 ½ side

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How to Understand Our Easy Method for Installing Your Kitchen Counter Tops Every consumer is CONCERNED about seams showing in upper Decks seams that are glued. There is a Secret technique to use that makes every seam perfect, tint the adhesive. The glue is tint-able with a very small amount of water based paint. Get some paint made to match your back-ground color of the sheets at your paint store. Also you can make “Dust” from a scrap piece using a belt sander to fill voids when mixed with glue. These Deck sections come with a seam able connecting edge along the sides ready to glue. If in doubt about your seams visible integrity, tint some glue and mix it with a putty knife then insert into the seam when joining (the manufactures don’t make a color matched glue for all the sheets). Quick Overview of Steps for Basic Kit: You are going to set the pre-cut deck sections onto the cabinets and fit them as you go, attach some wooden build-up strips, then you can mark the center line for the sink cutout and where to trim the lengths. Remove the Decks and complete all cutouts and trimming, re-install and join decks then attach the edges. Since the Deck sections are without glued edges, you will now attach each pre-cut edge with spring clamps every 3 inches, starting from the inside 90 degree corner (page 3 & 5). Complete the sanding, clean and set the backsplashes. If you’ve have installed an under-mount sink, silicone the rim water tight to complete it. You will need 50 spring clamps available at Home Depot for about $1.35 each, we can include if needed. Detailed Overview of Steps for Basic Kit:

1. The deck sections are placed and scribed into the walls. 2. Now you can mark the center point of any sink or cook-top cutout, including marking to length each

overhanging end. 3. Remove and trim all ends and any cutouts. 4. Now nail the build-up strips onto the cabinets leaving an opening to set the Bevel Plate into. 5. If installing an under-mount sink, now you can cleat the sink base cabinet to allow setting the under-

mount sink. If installing an “Integral Sink” do this before replacing (watch the CD). 6. Next you can re-install the deck sections, and glue together. 7. Now you can attach the front edges, starting at the inside corner and working towards each end. 8. Pull the tops from the wall and complete any sanding. 9. Lift the tops and silicone every 12 inches along the top of the face frame. 10. Set and adjust the tops, including installing the 3 1/2 backsplash with silicone (to wall and deck).

To provide you the lowest possible prices we do not glue the edges in this “Kit”. But rather we cut the parts and ship you these including the deck sections ready to assemble. The front edge strip is 1 wide x 1/2 inch thick (as is the sheet materials) including a 3 1/2 inch backsplash. Bevel Plates included with order.

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www.solid-surface-kits.com Bevel Plate A 90 degree corner seam must butt tightly at the joint. If the walls are overly out of square, then this 2nd top deck section must be re-routed to change the angle to join correctly at the corner seam (page 22).

The black lines represent edges you glue beneath the Decks

These deck sections were set and scribed to the walls, you then pull the two tops out from the walls leaving a gap of 1/8th to 3/16th of an inch. This allows for seasonal expansion. Mark for trimming.


2nd Top in Corner

1st Top in Corner


Assembling Strip “On Edge” Method for Countertops The gluing process to attach an edge strip is very simple. The illustration below is one of “Two Methods” we teach regarding how to assemble these edge strips. This method is called the “On Edge” version. Since a 30 inch sheet will only make one edge strip and a 3 ½ inch backsplash with the deck, any additional edge strips must come from extra material or by cutting the backsplash into extra strips. Thus a second edge strip can be installed behind the first edge strip attached if desired. Also the inside corner block is glued to the inside corner after the edges are dry. Be sure to clean the glue squeeze-out from the vertical seam.

The 2nd top in the Corner gets a first strip installed under the two decks. This first strip runs under the 1st Top in the corner about one inch (leave small gap between the face frame and the end of the strip).


2nd Top in Corner

1st Top in Corner

2nd Top in Corner 1st Top in Corner

Rear strength support blocks. Make 3 - 4 inches long. A Radius corner block is glued to inside corner after the edges have cured.


Making a Rabbited Groove to Insert this Type Edge

We can ship the Deck with this groove already cut if using the method. This groove allows you to index the single strip accurately very flush to the front edge of the sheet. End Caps do not require this groove, since you can use the stacked method (below) and butt the strips into the back of the front edge strip. A 1/2 Rabbiting bit in a router makes a 1/16th step onto the underside of the sheet. Clean with denatured alcohol before gluing edges. ½ inch Rabbiting Bit set at a 1/16th depth more or less. Two End Caps are “Stacked” and butt into back of front edge This groove along the front allows an easier assembly of a single edsections, as in this End Cap, can be also attached with a 1 ½ inch fusheet edge with (3) three way C-clamps (page 42).

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Very sharp and straight edge cut madealong this edge on a table saw.
ge strip to attach to the countertop edge. Short ll height strip attached into the face of the

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Front edge


Assemble “Stacked” Type Method for Countertops This gluing process to attach the edge strip is also very simple. The illustration below is the “Second Method” we teach regarding how to assemble these edge strips. This method is called the “Stacked” version. Since a 30 inch sheet will only make one edge strip and a 3 ½ inch backsplash with the Deck, any additional edge strips must come from extra material or by cutting the backsplash into extra strips. Thus a second edge strip can be installed beneath the first edge strip attached if desired. This will make that a 1 ½ inch tall edge. THIS METHOD DOES NOT REQUIRE THE RABBITED GROOVE TO ASSEMBLE This method is used for adding a “Color band” strip in a contrasting color, such as a white strip.

Edges are assembled cross lapped under the deck The 2nd top in the Corner gets a first strip installed under the two decks. Both red strips butt into the black edge strips (leave a small gap between the face frame and the end of the strip).


2nd Top in Corner 1st Top in Corner

These two edge strips run long under the Deck or upper strip

1st Top in Corner

2nd Top in Corner


Making a Radius End on an Out-Side Deck Corner

Bottom of sheet

Making a Radius Corner Behind a Front Edge This only requires gluing two blocks into the back side of the front edge. Be sure to dull the gloss surface on the blocks, clean with denatured alcohol. Use a clamp to draw blocks forward butting into the back of the front edge. You can jig saw or router to cut the material that removes the radius. Next use a belt sander to shape the radius. Finish sand then route then sand again.


Glue


Making an Radius Inside Corner Block

Set the Radius Inside Corner Block here and flush to the bottom of the inside corner. This is a good place to mix some colored glue, or solid surface dust and a glue mixture.



Set the Backsplash onto the Decks and Silicone

Each Deck section has a backsplash the same length. So an additional section of Backsplash is required to extend this 2nd Deck backsplash into the corner. Glue with the two part epoxy glue (page 49).

Set the backsplash as shown. You will glue an additional section to the shorter section of the right side.

Each kitchen project must have more material than the total length of the countertop decks. You may notice the each deck length has only one an edge and a backsplash the same length as the deck. When installing the backsplash at a 90 degree corner, you must have an additional a section of backsplash cut from the extra material (about 3 ft. length) or more.



Straight Countertops that are Joined require a Bevel Plate

24” 24” 36” 27” The highlighted red area is a view of the (1 x 6 or 2 x 6) that is flushed with the top of the face frame. The bevel plate will set onto this support and the center build-up strips over the cabinet will land onto each side. This is illustrated on (page 10) where the black lines represent the build-up strips run lengthwise. It is very common to have a kitchen with a Peninsula section attached to a straight run of countertops. For this reason we have standardized the “Premium Kit” counter tops with a 3/4 inch build-up. This allows 3/4 plywood or a 3/4 inch square steel tube (Thick wall .120) to support the peninsula overhang. The rule is that any overhang more than six inches (6”) will require this support. The steel tube requires two screws to attach each to the cabinet. Use wooden blocks between tube openings. The Basic Kit can also be installed over a ¾ build-up.

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D/W Sink Base


Connecting two Straight Kitchen Counter Tops

• This requires a beveled plate (supplied) under the butt seam, preferably attaching this to the top that is installing first into the corner. Next trim to length and cut out the sink hole. Attach 4 -6 wooden blocks to the deck of the tops with hot melt glue and allow several minutes to set before clamping. After inserting the glue use a screw driver to adjust height across the seam (Prevents excessive sanding later). A heavy weight on one top or the other top will adjust the seam down. Use a screw driver to determine the high side and adjust as close as possible. Reduces sanding later.

• Exception to the Bevel Plate: Peninsulas, Islands and raised bar counters resting on plywood.

• The bevel plate is butted into the front edge under the seam able joint.

Top View of the Cabinet The bevel plate will set onto a wooden board that is flush with the top of the face frame on the cabinet.

sink base cabinet The black lines represent the ½ minimum or ¾ build-up strips on the back, the center and the ends.



Detailed Order of Steps Step 1-Install the build-up strips on cabinet front, back, ends and the middle of all cabinet partitions. Step 2-Install bevel plates on the top of the cabinet face frame where the seamable joints are located. Step 3-If under-mounting a stainless or cast iron sink, cleat the sink cabinet before setting. Step 4-Set under-mount sink into cabinet on cleats (pages 35 & 36). Step 5-Set the sheets onto the cabinets, and re-cut out of square angle if necessary (page 22.) Step 6-Pull the tops out from the walls 1/8 to 3/16 inches for seasonal expansion and contraction. (you will not silicone decks to the cabinet until after the edges are attached). Step 7-Mark all edges that need to be trimmed, mark the location of any cutout, i.e. sink and cook-tops. Step 8-Trim counter tops lengths, make all cutouts. Step 9-Install integral sink; Pencil marks made inside the cabinet to center the sink, watch CD. Step 10-Sand to the desired finish, 120.., 280.., 400.., 600.., non woven (Scotch-brite ® type) white pad. Step 11-Set counter tops back onto cabinets, and hot melt blocks or strips for clamping (page 39). Step 12-Clean seamable joint area with denatured alcohol, use only white paper towels without colors. Step 13-Insert glue onto the bevel plate, then set sheets over plate add more glue into the seam joint. Step 14-Do not clean squeezed up glue from the seam, allow the glue to dry. Step 15- Pull tops away from the wall to belt sand seam area after cured (about 30 minutes). Step 16-Lift tops 3 inches (prop up) and dab silicone on the face frame every 12 inches. Step 17-Position tops, clean and dry. Step 18-Start from any inside 90 degree corner and attach edges to the 2nd Top in corner (pages 3 &5). Step 19-Place backsplash onto counter tops, by siliconing to the wall and then the counter top deck. Step 20-Clean under-mount sink with denatured alcohol, insert glue one side at a time and wipe as you go. (the silicone is inserted under the deck of the top and the top flange of the sink rim, sandwiched). Step 21-Drill for faucet holes with a 1 ½ hole saw (wood cutting type is fine). Step 22- If installing a cook-top, place aluminum tape onto rim of cook-top cutout (view DVD).

Miscellaneous thoughts When sanding rotating the belt sander (60 grit belt) in a circular motion or with a fanning arch, eliminates gouges in the countertop surface when belt sanding. Do not sand in “ONE SPOT” sand from front to back to front again, to reduce heat into the seam when sanding. Stop the sanding frequently and remove dust from the seam area (best to use a shop vacuum). Be sure to inspect the steel plate on the belt sander. If the plate is worn this will gouge the tops. Also a plastic debris from the sanding can get between the belt and this steel plate and cause divots to occur into the counter top when sanding a flat surface. Use heavy downward pressure. Do not scrape the glue that squeezed up at a seamable joint connection when connecting, it will shrink causing you to sand further into the seam latter. Once the first belt sanding was removed the majority of the glue, sand the scratches from the 60 grit belt sanding lines using a 120 grit sanding belt, next use a orbital sander starting with 80 grit paper. Next, repeat the sanding using 120 grit paper. Again repeat the sanding using a 280-grit paper, 400-grit and 600 grit sandpaper. The surface must next be conditioned by using a white “Non-woven” buffing pad after the 600 grit. After the sanding is completed apply Pledge ® in an area of two ft. wide, front to back. Be sure to wipe the Pledge® dry completely as you go (this may require repeating). This “Sheet Kit” comes without the edge strips on; this allows us to ship the countertop with two or three additional inches past the required length (this prevents potential errors that could be made in measuring or communication). Consumer is provided precut edge strips that can be glued to the counter top once trimmed to length.



Things to consider

a. Doorways should be draped with clear plastic sheeting to prevent dust from entering into other areas of the house. Use a 2x2 wooden strip, wrap clear plastic sheet onto it, prop it to ceiling with 2x4’s.

b. Have a Shop Vacuum ready for cleaning after trimming ends or sink cut-outs etc.

c. Use a disposable dust mask when working in a confined area even though these materials are inert or harmless exposure to the lungs is never a good thing.

d. The two-part adhesive is an acrylic resin with benzol peroxide. Be cautious with getting on skin or

breathing in an enclosed area. This material is flammable. e. Consider using a box fan in the kitchen window to push fumes out when gluing.

Tools & accessories:

a. Circular saw with any carbide blade. b. Belt sander 3 or 4 inch, 50 or 60 & 120 grit sanding belt. c. Random orbital sander 5 or 6 inch. Use 80, 120, 280, and 600 grit sandpapers. d. Jigsaw (all blades work, coarse blades are better). e. A Router 13/4 HP minimum, for doing the inside sink cut-out we use a 1/4 rounder over bit.

Things to have ready:

a. Have enough wooden strips (plywood or solid wood) to do the build-up. A #6 finish nail is fine for attaching the strips. These may be siliconed or hot melt glued, but I would still nail.

b. Second, what is the type of sink? Have the sink or cook-top ready to measure size and rim height.

• Self rimming • Under-mount (Cast Iron or Stainless steel) • Integral Solid Surface sink

c. Cook-top ?

• If installing a cook-top, have foil tape ready (you can find this in the plumbing department at the hardware store). Use two or three layers when installing tape. Do corners vertically.

d. Miscellaneous things:

• Denatured Alcohol • Pure white paper towels • Clear Silicone • Foil tape



The Starting point of any Installation is a Level or Straight and Flat Cabinet Height all Around The top of the cabinet face frame must be straight and level to receive a countertop installation. If a non-flat or non-level condition exists that is more than 1/8 inch off, this must be corrected before installing. You do not need a dead level surface, better is a flat surface that is reasonably level.

This can be determined by placing a very straight board on top of the countertops or a string across the intersecting corner of two sections that meet at this 90 degree corner. Also the individual straightness of the straight runs of cabinets must be straight within 1/8 inch or better over any 8 ft. in length. Once the minimal flatness is achieved, fine tuning of the shimming can be done after installing the countertop sections onto the cabinets. Inserting a shim between the face frame and the build-up will correct the condition accordingly (Laminate strips work well, use silicone to secure).



A Very Straight Board Helps for Checking the Flatness The cabinets must not “Rise or Drop” more than 1/8th inch at this front point, must be shimmed to correct. Using a string across the cabinets also works for checking the flatness.



Cabinet Misalignment is the Most Problematic Issue of a Proper Installation

Misalignment at the connection of the corner will result from not getting the cabinets flat or level with each other as shown in Figures 1A – 1C. Use wooden strips to level or flatten all the cabinet heights as required. Fig. 1A, straight run on Rt. connecting into a misaligned return run on Lt. Fig. 1B, straight run on Rt. connecting into a misaligned return run on Lt. Fig. 1C, straight run on Lt. connecting into a misaligned run on Rt.


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Front edge stops the drawer from i

www.solid-surface-kits.com Why Build-up Strips are Necessary opening


A build up strip is used to raise the bottom edge of the countertop up, allowing the drawers to open.

A “Peninsula” with an overhanging edge more than six inches beyond the cabinet, requires reinforcing by one of two methods. 1. 3/4 inch “Square Steel Tube ( 1/8th thick wall). 2. 3/4 inch Plywood requires Corbels every 3 to 4 feet (use screws not nails).

Peninsula or Island require support

Build-up strips are nailed to cabinets using # 6 finish nails or 1 5/8 sheet rock nails (set heads into B/U). Can be siliconed also.


Where Build-up Strips are Attached

Attach strips also to the front of cabinet at top of face frame. Also place strips through the mid span of the cabinet depth stopping at the sink opening (page 10).



Review of steps: Build-up strips are nailed to top of face frame on the back, center and ends. The tops are then placed on the cabinets and adjusted to the walls as required. Tops are then pulled from walls for an expansion space of about 1/8th to 3/16th inch. With tops in there finial position, now the center line of the sink and cook-top are marked. Next mark and trim to length for any overhanging ends. Tops that are in a pocket, (wall-to-wall or wall-to-countertop seam) will require a template wooden, to model the shape and angles. This is easier than moving the tops in and out of the cabinet location several times. Most importantly it prevents errors that could happen from measurements that do not account for angle considerations.

Complete by making cutouts and trim to length. Touch-up sanding (except at seam area to join). Install and glue Seamable joint. Sand “Seamable Joint” and clean tops. For multiple deck section kitchens, glue starting from the 1st Top in the Corner and connect two the second top. Glue only two sections at once. Set third section and repeat gluing. The first two glued sections are silinconed to cabinets before gluing the third section.



Start by Determining the Layout for Your Installation Next install the kitchen in these steps;

1. Set sections first as a “Dry-Fit”. If installing at a 90 degree corner adjust angle (page 22). 2. Mark ends for trimming to length and mark center of cabinets for any cutouts.

3. Complete all cutouts for sinks and cook-tops.

4. Re-set tops and join all sections over a bevel plate and glue (pages 2 , 3 & 21).

5. Install edges, starting at any inside 90 degree corners first, working out from there.


B A


Reversing the Install Order is Necessary if the Cutout is to close to the Inside Corner Seam Area

Here the sink cutout is closer than 3 inches from the corner, so we reversed the order of which top is installed first into the corner first. Sinks can be installed right on the axis of the corner if necessary.


A

B


Set Bevel Plate on top of the Face Frame at the location of the Seamable Joint of two Sheets The build-up strips are attached leaving a space to install a Bevel Plate where the location of the seam joint will fall over the plate. Flush the plate to the front of the face frame and leave a 3/16th inch gap at the wall. Bevel Plate Place sheets sections onto the cabinets after the build-up strips and Bevel Plate are installed. Mark the ends for trimming and any locations that require a cutout for sink or cook-top centered to the pair of doors.



Adjust Angle by Re-routing this Edge that butts Dry fit the tops together. Do this very gently since chipping can occur at the seam if an abrupt contact is made. If there exist a non-parallel misalignment at the intersection of these two countertops re-route the “Second Top” to fit properly. Apply this to any connecting combination of deck joints. Use An Aluminum Level as a Guide for Routing a New Seamable Edge

Set the straight edge to match the line that you have drawn. Most routers are about 3 inches from the base plate to the edge of the bit. You can use as small as a 1 ¾ Hp. router with a 1/4 collet and a 1/4 inch long bit enough to cut through the deck. You can then belt sand the protruding front edge flush with the upper deck. After a first pass, place a pen mark on the back side of the level or straight edge and ADJUST it to cover over this pen line. Re-route a second pass to achieve a finer cut for a better “Seamable” edge. The seamable joint must be straight to produce a Non-Visible line when you glue this “Second Top” to the “First Top” in the corner. Use a lubricant on the deck to route easier. Clean with denatured alcohol.



Plywood can be used On Peninsulas, Islands or Raised Bar Tops for the Overhung Support A 25 1/2 deep countertop does not require plywood or sheeting for additional support other than the build-up strips, through the back rail, ends and the center of the cabinet partitions. On tops that have a heat producing appliance, the plywood sheeting traps induced heat into the countertop from (toasters, hot plates, Micro Wave) and will cause “A Crack” when heat is induced over a period of time. Making a solid surface Trivet or using an insulated trivet beneath the heat producing appliance with plastic grommets on each corner to raise it above the deck will prevent this. When using plywood, a corbel is required to support the plywood every 2 ½ to on more than 3 feet on the overhanging side of the Island or Peninsula. Secure the plywood to the cabinet only with screws. Top view of Corbels on outer edge of over hang Ply wood sheeting This is where the 3/4 x 3/4 plywood sheet is then screwed into the cabinet.



A Steel Tubing Support for Overhanging Cabinets Set the steel tubing on top of cabinet face frame. Two screws attach them onto the cabinet, one screw on each side (counter sink screws flush to the top of the tube) at the front face frame and the back hang rail.

Steel tubing



How a Peninsula and Steel Tubing are Attached Leave a 3 1/2 space here between cabinets, to the first bar. Wooden blocks are placed between the tubes.

The wooden blocks are flush with the top of the tubes so you can not see into the cabinet. A wooden cleat is screwed into the wall.


www.solid-surface-kits.com Set tops together and glue the seam before applying any silicone glue beneath the tops. Then after the sanding is completed, lift the Peninsula and place silicone every 12” to 16” inches under all the top of the face frames and the steel tubes.


Next set Peninsula and join.

Set this Top first


Countertop Construction (1) Countertop deck. (2) Front edge 1 X 1/2 inch. (3) A build-up strip is attached to the face frame. (4) Cabinet face frame. (5) Wooden strip at hang rail. (6) Rear of cabinet hang rail. Countertops yield a 25 ¼ to a 25 1/2 deck depending on the width of the original 30 to 30 ¼ inch sheet. These include a 3 1/2" backsplash. Industry standard sheets are 30 inches.

Routing Edge Profiles are Easy There are many types of router bits for solid surface try these websites: http://www.velepec.com or http://www.carbide.com

The same router bit used to route the front edges of the countertop, must be the same bit used after the joining to achieve the same shape of cut. For this reason we do not route the edges, but make the exception for the 1/4 R. O. edge profile, (for Premium Kits only).


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Kitchens = Counter Top Slabs Turned Different Ways Any combination can be made into a counter top. These examples can be reversed in any combination.

Consider this idea ; Every kitchen counter top is the same “Only the lengths are commonly different”. Counter Tops are just a slab of a Counter Top Deck Section (CTDS). Trim to some length (X) and it fits your kitchen, if your neighbor trims it to some length (Y) it would fit his cabinet instead. Consider this idea ; You have two slabs, the first and the second are both shorter than your run of cabinets; By gluing these two sheets you create a single counter top that fits your cabinet’s length, after trimming. Consider this idea ; If you butt two straight edges together, there would not be a gap showing. Why, because the materials the straight edges are made of contacted each other so close, there existed no visible gap. Solid surface materials producing “Invisible Seams” are similar. Since the solid surface two part glues are “Solid” in color they do not fill in for correcting a lack of straightness. Therefore the reason a seam does not show, is because the two parts are so close together that the glue can not be seen. Making an Edge, is just as simple as a strip glued onto the side of a sheet, cut very straight & sharp (May need hand blocking). The sheet is rabbited 1/16th of an inch, using a 1/2 inch Rabbiting bit. Clean with denatured alcohol and glue this edge to the counter top using clamps every three inches to create your personalized edge profile, (page 27). Additional edge can be installed behind the first. Or an optional method is to “Stack” the strips flat for profiles requiring a “Bullnose” edge or “Sandwich Strip” (page 4).


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Left or Right

Island top 45 Degree top

Any combination

U-Shape & Peninsula

U-Shape top L-Shape top Straight top


How Counter Tops Slabs are Joined

1. A seam location is determined by where a sink opening, a dishwasher or cook-top are placed.

2. A kitchen always has a best order of installing based on where these cutouts and D/W locate at. Start at the most difficult to reach inside corner or wall / cabinet location.

3. The Peninsula (C) can be joined in two combinations, butt into kitchen top as above or into it’s long

side. This would be the reverse of the pattern above, therefore (c) would continue to the wall.


B

A

C

D


Standard tops, Peninsulas, Islands or Raised bar countertops. Custom Premium Kits are Glued Edges. Standard depth tops are 25 1/4 to 25 1/2 inches, this allows for some scribing to walls that are out of straight. A double edged 27 inch wide top can be made from a 30 inch wide sheet and used as a narrow Island or Peninsula, or a narrower raised bar top for an eating counter (these narrow tops are all made from a standard sheet). Our finely crafted tops come 100% machined and ready for joining a net 90 degree angle or Straight top. Before gluing you will need to correct any excessively “Out of Square” condition at the corner of the two intersecting tops, (page 22). Set the sections and dry fit the seamable location between them first, then trim to length. A wider Island or Peninsula top is commonly 36 inches wide, but we think a 38 inch wide allows for the interior side. Edges are: 1 1/2 inches 3 1/2 A Standard kitchen countertop : 12” to 27” Modified Standard top : 38 inches A Standard Peninsula : Max. 60 inches Max width *: *Requires edges be cut from other material.

All our Brands are quality, the only difference is the color patterns are different between them.


25 ¼ to 25 1/2


Connecting Parts for Counter Tops Counter top deck section (CTDS). Bevel Plate : Required for connecting two CTDS together. Seam Support Strip : Required for connecting two CTDS at the 90 degree corner. End caps : 2 methods , stacked (page 4) or face applied as below on (page 41).

A Radius corner block used to create a round corner on outside of finished ends. A Radius corner block used to create an inside corner (pages 7/38 ).


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D / W Sink

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Counter Top Slabs Cut for a Diagonal Corner Sink

Flat sheet glued to back

Bevel strip with 45° on each end


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With all Orders We Determine the Layout for Your Installation Your Task will include; Connecting straight CTDS, and any 90 degree corner sections. All cutouts for sinks and cook-tops will be created by you (exception “Premium Kit” can have sinks installed). We will provide you with all the details and instructions to insure your installation will be 100% successful. We make a new drawing from the drawing you send us that shows how the tops are labeled and installed. We determine where the seams are to be placed. The proper placement of seams in your kitchen is very important. Seam placement is not acceptable through a sink or a cook-top cutout. Please send a drawing showing where any cutouts are and the D/W location is on your drawing so we can determine your layout. We label tops by there order of installation (i.e., A…, B…, C…, etc.). The sink in this example is approximately centered in the run of cabinets. We would in this example place the “A” section first into the corner, then the sink section “B”.


B A

www.solid-surface-kits.com Where Seams Must Not Land at or Through In this “Correct example” on the right: The countertop starts from the Rt. corner at the wall and passes over the dishwasher and the sink cutout landing onto the face frame.

In this “Correct example” on the right: The “First top in the Corner” countertop starts from the Rt. corner at the wall, then the “Second top in the Corner” has enough length and passes over the dish washer and the sink cutout landing onto the face frame.

I Twot

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Counter Top

sink

n this “Incorrect example” at the left:

he countertop starts from the Rt. corner at the all and lands over the top of the dishwasher pening. This area is without a proper support for he countertop to have a seam land here.

Surface-Kit

1st Counter Top

Counter Top
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www.solid-surface-kits.com Installing the Cleats for an Under mount Sink Start by attaching the wooden build-up. Next two wooden cleats, one behind the front face frame and the other attached to the rear hang rail. The sink must set 1/16th to 1/8th below the bottom of the deck. Note ! : Even self rimming sinks can be installed as an under-mount. Consider this thought; the gap of 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch under the countertop allows inserting the silicone adhesive under the sheet and between the top of the sink rim. Silicone does not work as well when formed into an inside radius around the sink cutout. Later this will cause a “Feathering” and the silicone would lift from the edges and come out. But, if the sink were a little lower under the countertop deck, the silicone could be sandwiched vertically and wiped tight with “Denatured Alcohol” only (NO Lacquer Thinner) it acts as a release agent to silicone. When inserting the silicone as below, only do one side of the cutout at a time. We insert the silicone under the deck and onto the top of the sink, then using a plastic caulking tool we clean all excess silicone and wipe with denatured alcohol to a tight vertical finish “No Lacquer thinner”. Cleats

Using a 1 1/4 inch screw for the front (prevents screw through drawer front) and a 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 for the back, attach the 3/4 by 3 ½ cleats inside the sink base cabinet at the height determined.


www.solid-surface-kits.com Cleats support Sink in Cabinet

Our Premium Kit comes with a front build-up strip. This allows the overhanging front edge to drop 1/4 inch below the top of the face frame to cover differences in the height of the cabinets. A rear strip 3/4 x 3/4 you provide, is glued with silicone or nailed onto the cabinet at the back on the hang rail.

First place the tops by dry fitting them. Scribe tops into the walls as required. If installing into a 90 degree corner, scribe tops in both directions, that is the back of both runs of each countertop to the walls.

Now install the cleats. Using a 1x3 for the front of the cabinet and a 1x4 for the back hang rail use 1 1/4 inch screws at the front and longer screws at the back into studs. Then determine the thickness of the under mount sink. If the sink were 3/4 of an inch thick, the cleats would be 1/16th below the top of the face frame. If the sink were 1/4 inch thick then the cleat would be 7/16th inch above the face frame. Place cleats to support the sink as required to raise the height to 11/16th of an inch above.

Next set the sink and reinstall the top . If all fits well without the cutout made, mark the center line of the sink base cabinet. Then remove the top to measure the distance from the wall to the first point on the back of the sink flange. This is usually about 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 inches so as to fall behind the faucet holes. Second measure the distance from the wall to the front point of the sink flange. The common distance is about 22 inches to about 22 1/4 inches. The tops should have1/8 inch from the walls for seasonal expansion. Deduct 1/8 from your measurement so you can leave a 1/8 gap at rear.

Because under mount sinks are 22 x 33 inches, the sink will set on the cleats you installed. These cleats allow you to move the sink left or right after the hole is cutout, so be as exact as possible but don't worry, the sink can be adjusted after placing the top.

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www.solid-surface-kits.com Glue the Bevel Plate onto the First top in the Corner

This bevel plate is butt into the back edge of the 1/2 inch strip when gluing the plate onto the deck. This top gets set onto the cabinets first, then the second countertop / or sheet is set onto the bevel plate and glued. 4 “ +/-

Using a hand chisel remove the glucleaned to receive the second coundenatured alcohol. You could roll th Add Glue between the bevel plate

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Attach the bevel plate using (3) regular C-clamps at these locations. The strip is Centered over the edge.

A Bevel Plate requires a 45 degree edge on both sides. Smooth edges free of kerf marks on both sides.

e “Squeeze Out” on the underside of the bevel plate. This must be ter top that will be glued to this first counter top. Then clean with e top over to clean the glue also.

and the front of the 1/2 strip.

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www.solid-surface-kits.com How “Premium Kit” is Connected at 90 Degree corner

Reversed View

A radius block is glued into the intersecting corner after the joint has been cured and sanded. Along the ½ side of each block adjust the block angle to match the inside corner. Dull the gloss finish, clean and glue. The blocks are flushed to the bottom of the front edges and clamped with a spring clamp in each direction. Use carton tape to hold glue in place prior to spring clamping. Belt sand flush to the deck when cured, sand with random orbital and route a radius into the block. Complete by routing the edge profile detail.


www.solid-surface-kits.com Attaching a Seam Support Strip to the Counter Top

• Shown here you glue the seam support strip onto the top that is placed into the corner first, wherein the second top is butt and connected onto the strip after it is cured. The black squares in the drawing below are for clamping the two tops together thereby pulling the seam. Use 3/4 x 3 x 3 blocks that are hot melted onto deck. Use denatured alcohol poured onto the blocks to remove later.

• This seam support strip is dry fitted with (2) spring clamps to secure the strip. Place carton or packaging tape along the upper vertical edge before gluing. Remove seam support strip and clean with denatured alcohol before re-attaching with the adhesive.

• Next a piece of 1/2 inch by 1 inch wide solid surface scrap is used to adjust the seam support

strip to the upper deck.


B A

Flush blocks

Remove tape

www.solid-surface-kits.com Quickly remove all glue with denatured alcohol from the front edge and the upper level of the seam support strip using a utility knife blade. DO NOT WALK AWAY remain adjusting the strip until it is stable (10 min.), the spring clamps may shift and alter the alignment of the strip indexed to the deck.

• For 90 degree corners that use this connection method, the seam support strip both indexes and strengthens the joining of the two tops in the gluing process.

Ease the bottom edge on the underside of the “Second Top”, so as to fit more tightly into the support strip with a course file or sanding block.

(The dotted line)


An extra edge can be placed behind this edge is making a “Full Bullnose” edge profile.

www.solid-surface-kits.com Face Applied End Caps This is the view of the underside of the counter

For applications that require “Finished Ends” these counter tops are ready for attaching the end caps.. End Capping: For a counter top end to cap it must be very straight and a sharp edge on the outside corner of the upper deck, same as a seamable joint edge. Read below on how to make a counter top end straight. 1 5/8 This strip is glued onto the end of the deck using (3) Three-Way-Clamps as shown in the drawing below.


www.solid-surface-kits.com How to Make a New Edge Ready for End Capping


This is the method for trimming any end to length.

Three way C-clamp available at your hardware store or Harbor Freight supply


Making a Sink Cutout Set tops onto a 3/4 MDF sheet on horses

Next lay 2x4’s over the sheet, then place the top on the boards and draw your sink size from the center line you made when fitting. Adjust to your specific sink flange size as required.

Second from the lines of the sink size, draw a radius in the inside corners. The rear distance is about 1 ½” from wall, the front is about 22 ¾ inches from wall.

Third with a circular saw cut each side, but stopping 3 inches from the cross lines we have drawn. Next use a jig saw to complete the cutout. Move the 2 x 4's supporting the cutout.

Forth with a belt sander laying on the 3/4 MDF on it’s side, straighten the inside perimeter of the cutout with a 60 grit belt. Next sand with a 120 grit belt.

Fifth with random orbital sander and a 120 grit sand paper, sand the vertical edges. Next route with a 1/4 inch round over. Repeat the sanding with the 120 grit sand paper then 180, 280 and 400 if desired. Last by hand, scuff the edge with a grey then a white Scotch-brite® non-woven burnishing pad.

Fig. 1


www.solid-surface-kits.com Installing an Integral Under-mount Sink

You will need to watch the video: CD Integral sinks for the Kitchen come in a 60/40 or 40/60 or 50/50 We offer Thermal-Formed hi-density acrylic sinks. These can withstand hot / cold variations and a higher temperature differences without problems more than polyester blends. The 60 / 40 is a large bowl on the left, correspondingly the 40 / 60 is a large bowl on the right. Formica makes a high quality version that is solid acrylic in several colors. Build a bench which includes an opening to drop sink into for routing cutout.

Make a table from 3/4 MDF x 6 inches wide x 96 long. Space the cross braces such that a sink can hang down in the space between the bracing.


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www.solid-surface-kits.com Cook-top Cutouts come in Many Different Sizes Since there are so many sizes of cook-tops use these principles as follows. Always complete a cut out with an inside corner radius as shown using one of the two methods presented in the video or below. Very important to center the cook-top without contacting the cutout edges.

Tstttm

hese examples are required for all COOK-TOP appliances set into aolid surface countertop. Remember to foil tape the cut-out withwo or three layers and center the appliance without contactinghe cut-out edges. With the cook top in place it should not touchhe cut out and must stand off the edge of the cut out by 1/4 inchinimum.


Route the corners using one of the methods below.

Radius all 4 corners as shown in the two examples: Route then sand smooth by hand. Use 120 grit sand paper removing all Kerf Marks.

Saw cut to the corner without crossing the other line. Belt sand all edges.

www.solid-surface-kits.com Radius example type A:

Radius example type B:

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Deck

Interior of Cut

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Interior of Cu

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Deck

www.solid-surface-kits.com Support Strips are Glued Rough Side Up A Support Strip is 4 inches wide by 25 ± in length. Bevel on two long sides. A flat edge of 1/16th of 1/8th inch is best along both lengthwise sides. Sand with 120 all kerf marks.

After making the Cook-top cut-out and radius and sanding with 120 grit paper removing all kerf marks from the router or saw. Place the center of the strips along a side of the cut-out. Using a pencil transfer the shape of the cut-out onto each strip (one LT & RT) and cut the strips to the shape of the cut-out in the deck. Glue under deck then trim with a router using a pattern bit. Next sand with 120 sand paper smooth to the touch, by removing all kerf marks (VERY IMPORTANT). Complete with foil tape on all sides of the cutout. Corner strips are inserted vertically into the corner. Use 2 or 3 layers around.

Here the Support Strips have been placed beneath each side of the finished cut-out. Transfer the shape and cut to match the cut-out (one left one right).

These are an example of the finished part. Strip was centered under cut-out, butt to front edge.


www.solid-surface-kits.com What type of Electric Saw is required for cutting

Any electric circular saw with a carbide (thin blades work better) blade will work. Also jigsaws can be used. You must completely sand all kerf marks that the jig or circular saw blade cuts into the material. This should be done with 120 paper until all visible lines are removed. Especially on the inside of the Cook-top cut-out and the back edge of the counter top if it was scribed to the wall. This prevents stress cracks from possibly forming from the kerf marks when flex or heat is induced into the countertop. Very Important

Belt Sander Sanding When belt sanding, a 50 to 60 belt is best on the first sanding pass. Next use a 120-grit belt to remove the 50 grit sanding lines. Be cautious to not rock the sander and gouge the surface. An effective method to prevent this is to move the sander in a circular motion in about 5 to 7 inches (CCW) while applying a firm pressure downward on to the surface of the material, this reduces gouging. Also move the sander over the seam front to back to front. This will reduce the heat induced into the seam while leveling any high spots in the seamable joint area. Remove dust frequently to prevent dust getting under the sanding belt.

ABRASIVES ASAP Sanding & Finishing Products

Contact ABRASIVES ASAP at their website, http://www.abrasivesasap.com they have a consumer sanding pack that includes 120 through 1000 grit paper including a “Micro hook & loop” conversion pad. Also they include three non-woven polishing pads to get that finish to a better luster. 877-346-2727 After the counter top is in place and all clean-up around the sink area is finished, a uniform bead of silicone caulk is applied UNDER the inside of the sink cut-out. As mentioned in the video the sink should set about 1/16th to 1/8th below the build-up strips. This allows you to insert the silicone between the top of the sink and the bottom of the counter top. Silicone only one side at a time, the silicone tacks extremely fast and requires that you wipe it (as you go) with “Denatured Alcohol” to remove any silicone build up and even out the bead line. Do not use “Lacquer Thinner” this will act as a release agent in a couple of months and you will have to pick out the silicone and do it all over again.

See Video Again


www.solid-surface-kits.com How to Attach the Countertops to the Cabinets

Using a caulking gun with any type of silicone, place a Quarter size amount of silicone on the top of the face frame every 16 inches or so. Also on any finished ends. The back splash or tile will be siliconed to the counter top deck after you complete all sanding etc. Clean the deck and dry before silicone is applied to the backsplash and deck.

Diagonal Corner Cabinets and Tops

Method shown for corners with 45° angle cabinets that are not required to receive a cook- top or corner-under mount sink. WE have an alternate method for diagonal corners with a under top sink.

Joining Two Backsplash Pieces of Solid Surface

Insert glue into joint between the pieces and press together. Touch down carton tape and pull over the dowel and touch down about 12 18 inches from the seam. Press your hand in the direction of arrow to tighten the tape that acts as a spring on the mating seam. Place tape under seam to prevent bonding to the surface gluing onto.


www.solid-surface-kits.com The Kitchen Dishwasher

Fig.2, the dashed line below is the bottom of the build-up strip, this will allow a screw to be attached that secures the dishwasher at these locations. A wooden strip can be siliconed under the top to secure the screws into. Do not screw into the top.


Dishwasher

www.solid-surface-kits.com Make your own Template-In-A-Can We will let you know if you need this type pattern for your project: Purchase a roll of “BUILDERS PAPER” at Home Depot in the paint section Kitchens with a long L-shaped or U-shaped countertop that joins to a section that is greater than 5 feet from the back corner of the long top, will require a Template-In-A-Can. Chop saw the paper to 25 1/4 - 1/2 inches wide. Place the papers factory edge on the cabinets allowing for the overhang and ends. Mail to us.

1. The paper lays out and is cross lapped at the corners as shown. If patterning an L-shaped top treat it as below with only one set of points (point A to point B). Also mark an “X” in from the corners 2 or 3 inches in from paper edges. Draw a triangle on the pattern to document the dimensions from point A to point B and point C to point D. Tape both the underside of paper and the top side to strengthen it. If making the pattern with a backsplash in place, note the distance to the wall on the pattern at the exact locations.


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10 Year Warranty On Premium Custom Kits

imited 10 Year Warranty for custom “Premium Kits”. rranty that our edges are properly glued and the corner connection will not fail if installed onto flat cabinets. Installing a cook-top with require following few the very specific steps to achieve a proper ng of your appliance into the counter top.

year Limited Warranty excludes repairs caused by heat induced damage problems from electric s, hot-plates, and other similar electric kitchen items that show evidence of short or long term heat on, read page (page 23).

sed on what is not warranted, the term “Impact Damage” caused by falling objects will leave a chip point of impact as a cause. Furthermore the term “Undo / Compression” caused by standing or g on the deck of the countertop, which leaves a crack pattern that is known to have be from a heavy also standing or setting on the tops.

g these facts allows you the consumer to take preventative steps, for possible future problems.

rranty for 10 years if installed to our specific requirements. As disclosed in your installation st. We will instruct and pay you to repair. You must have left over material from the original rtop order to accomplish any repairs. Because these materials are made in batches, your original s the only guaranteed exact match. This is true of all solid surfaces including Corian ®.

d-Surface-Kits.Com uke St. TX 75061 800-593-8450 66-747-7612

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