the best of culture, travel & art de vivreFal l 2007

No.83

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IMPRESSIONISTS by the Sea French HERITAGE Society Martinique’s RHUM AGRICOLE

RumIt’s Not Just foR saIloRs aNymoRe

the WashINgtoN Post has called It “the NeW scotch.” TIME Magazine dubbed it “the new cognac.” Whatever you call it, rum is one of the sexiest libations around. this sudden popularity is stimulating a new interest in martinique, which has long produced some of the world’s best bottlings. the history of this french island is literally soaked in rum; today martinique proudly claims the distinction of being the world’s only maker of rhum agricole—distilled from cane juice, not molasses—bearing the revered aoc label.

few people know the island or its local elixir better than ed hamilton, the self-appointed “minister of Rum.” an avid sailor who spent more than a decade navigating caribbean waters, hamilton developed a passion for this spirit, tak-ing his research well beyond the glass. he has gone on to write articles and books about it and now crisscrosses the united states as a representative of martinique’s rhum agricole. on the following pages, he shares some of his insider’s knowledge of this tropical french island, its stately plantations and its historic distilleries.

fRaNce • fall 2007 47

Rare aged rums such as those pro-

duced by Clément (left) are highly prized by spirit

aficionados. All of Martinique’s great

rums are made from specially

selected varieties of sugar cane (right).

bottom of the glass blinded me for a second. I was struck with an idea: Rather than simply sailing south through the island chain, why not visit as many distilleries as possible along the way and learn some of the secrets of rum? at the time, I had no idea that I was about to embark on research that would take on a life of its own, leading me into a new career.

armed with a basic understanding of fermentation and distillation (a legacy of my beer-making days in engineering school), I began making the rounds. Noting my inter-est, distillers soon invited me to taste what they considered to be the best examples of their art. from the beginning, martinique rums impressed me with their unique aroma and flavor. hundreds of tastings later, I am still convinced that some of the world’s most outstanding rums hail from martinique. as f. Paul Pacult, the Robert Parker of spirits journalism, recently noted, “Rhum agricole can be thought of as the single malt of the rum category.”

By far the best—and most pleasurable—

48 fRaNce • fall 2007

the sPIRIt of maRtINIqueBy edWaRd hamIltoN

way to become familiar with these spirits is to visit martinique, where you can see how they are made, meet the people who produce them and taste for yourself the alchemy of golden sugar cane juice distilled into fine rum.

moreover, as you make your way from plantation to plantation, you’ll discover much more than rum—you’ll experience a culture and lifestyle like none other in the caribbean. and most everywhere you go, from rum shops to beaches, les Martiniquais will invite you to share this local spirit, whose history is inextricably woven into that of the island itself.

WheN chRIstoPheR columBus laNded here in 1502, he had no idea that sugar cane—which he had brought to the caribbean— would shape martinique’s destiny. at the time, the island was inhabited by the carib Indians. they called it madinina, “the Is-land of flowers”—hibiscus, orchids, fran-gipani and scores of other tropical blooms graced the volcanic landscape.

Clockwise from above: A view of the bustling harbor of Saint-Pierre, before the eruption of Mont Pelée; an engraving showing a sugar

plantation in the late 1700s; a rendering of plantation life, circa 1775; barrels of rum lined up on a dock, awaiting export.

It doesN’t take moRe thaN a day oR tWo IN the caRIBBeaN to discover that the world of rum extends far beyond Bacardi. those of us who have had the good fortune of spending years here know just how big and fascinating a world it is: every island has its own distinctive rums, and there are centuries of history in every bottle.

It’s always difficult to say just when an interest becomes a passion, but if I had to pinpoint the moment I became serious about the drink in my glass, it would be an april night in 1993. I was anchored off culebra, pre-paring my sloop for the annual migration south—a precaution most of us sailors take during hurricane season—when I decided to take a break to attend a full moon party. as I raised my glass of golden rum to the eastern horizon that evening, the brilliance of the orange moon magnified in the

although fierce (they had decimated the peaceful arawaks several centuries before), the caribs would be no match for the french, who established a colony here in 1635. about 100 strong, they arrived from saint kitts and settled near what would become the town of saint-Pierre, planting indigo and coffee and, once the caribs had been driven back, clear-ing land to grow sugar cane.

europe was developing quite a sweet tooth in those days, and during the decades that followed, sugar prices would climb steadily, eventually reaching about $50,000 a ton in today’s currency. Ironically, the golden juice of the sugar cane plant would prove to be a more profitable commodity than the shiny yellow metal that had originally lured euro-pean explorers to the New World.

By the mid-18th century, saint-Pierre—called the Paris of the antilles—had become the busiest port in the caribbean. here ships were loaded with the dark raw sugar that fueled the economy of the caribbean and much of europe. Rum—then a byproduct of the sugar industry—was conspicuously ab-sent from this vibrant bilateral trade. france had forbidden imports of the spirit to protect its brandy industry, so most rum was con-sumed in the islands. (cases were also traded to the navy as partial payment for protect-ing the valuable sugar-laden ships sailing for europe, creating the link between rum and the sea that endures to this day.)

martinique did however find an enthusi-astic market for its molasses in the fledgling New england colonies, where it was fer-mented and distilled into rum. annoyed that its own caribbean islands were being edged out of this lucrative market, the British passed

fRaNce • fall 2007 49

the 1733 molasses act, imposing prohibitive duties on the popular import. the legislation was largely ignored, however, uniting the english colonists in one of their first acts of civil disobedience toward the crown.

Indeed, rum production not only contin-ued, it spread. according to Wayne curtis, author of And a Bottle of Rum, there were no fewer than 159 distilleries in the colonies in 1763. the sugar cane spirit had become a vital part of the economy. the next year, the British passed the sugar act, which lowered but strongly enforced duties on molasses from the french West Indies. the despised measure had the unintended effect of strengthening the ties between the colo-nists and their french trading partners, contributing to the alliance that helped the colonies defeat the British in 1776.

as in all of the sugar-producing regions of the New World, the demand for labor in martinique led to the importation of african slaves, a practice whose economic impact went far beyond the plantations themselves. Indeed, many historians maintain that the wealth generated by the “triangle trade” (molasses shipped from the caribbean to america, american rum to africa, african slaves to the caribbean) built many of the major cities in New england. a similar tri-angle transported goods and slaves between the caribbean, europe and africa, creating the wealth that built Bordeaux, Nantes and other cities.

moral objections finally prevailed, how-ever, and slavery ended in martinique in 1848, when france abolished the practice in its colonies. Indentured servants from India eventually replaced slaves as the source of inexpensive labor, contributing to an ethnic mix that gives martinique its unique attitude and individuality among caribbean islands.

By the mId 1800s, caNe sugaR’s heyday had come to an end. In europe, Napoleon had encouraged the massive cultivation of sugar beets, and the price of caribbean sugar had fallen to levels only slightly above the cost of production. martinique’s struggling plantations turned to rum for their salvation, producing it directly from freshly squeezed sugar cane with favorable results. When france relaxed import restrictions following the oidium (powdery mildew) outbreak in vineyards in 1855, french rum consumption shot up. the phylloxora epidemic, which devastated french wine production, was yet another boon to the industry.

By the mid-18th century, saint-Pierre—called the Paris of the antilles— had become the busiest port in the caribbean.

sugar cane plantations continued to thrive during World War I, when the value of alco-hol (an ingredient in explosives) soared, and rum was widely distributed in the trenches. meanwhile, distillers were refining their art; by the 1920s, aged rhum agricole was recog-nized as a world-class spirit, rivaling cognac as an after-dinner drink.

martinique rum had reached its zenith—and was heading for a fall. In france, eau-de-vie producers began clamoring for more import restrictions, which they obtained in 1925. combined with the economic devas-tation of World War II, the quotas precipi-tated a crisis that would last for decades: In 1934, there were 86 distilleries operating in martinique; today there are eight.

martinique finally began to emerge from this industry-wide shakedown and con-solidation in the mid 1990s. Rum’s current trendiness has stimulated demand, and new investments are being made. today visitors to the island will likely hear excited talk of increased capacity, improved fermentation tanks and new aging barrels.

a visit to any one distillery will pro-vide a basic understanding of how this spirit is made, but plan to see several. each has a unique history and personality and offers the opportunity to taste bottlings you won’t find anywhere else on the is-land, let alone in your local liquor store (only 5 percent of rhum agricole is sold outside of france). of course, you won’t be able to visit them all—let alone sample all their wares—in a day, but you can use the tour on the following pages as a guide to plotting your personal discovery of martinique’s rich rum culture.

WheReveR you aRe IN maRtINIque, you

are never far from a distillery. they are open all year, but the best time to visit is during the rum-making season, from late January to late may. this is the dry season, when the sugar cane is at its peak of maturity and sweetness. most activity takes place in the morning, but don’t arrive too early, because you’ll want to have your palate primed for tasting.

our clockwise island tour starts on the west coast, just north of fort-de-france, at Neisson. founded in 1931, Neisson is one of only two remaining family-owned distill-eries in martinique. also one of the smallest, it nevertheless consistently produces what locals consider to be some of the best rum on the island, packaged in its signature “zépol carré,” or “square-shoulder,” bottles designed by founder Jean Neisson.

though tours are informal, this is an excellent place to observe every stage of the rum-making process, from harvest to cask (the company’s Web site, neisson.com, also features an animated video explaining how rum is made). While there, be sure to try Neisson shrubb, a blend of fresh orange, spice and rum, which is sold only at the dis-tillery, as are other rare bottles.

about five miles north of Neisson is saint-Pierre, once the nexus of martinique’s rum trade. In 1902, the city and its 30,000 in-habitants were obliterated when mont Pelée erupted with little warning. the sole survivor was reputedly louis-auguste cyparis, who was doing time in the town’s underground jail for a bit of excessive public tippling. (a little train named after the lucky prisoner now takes visitors on a tour of the town and its remaining ruins.) today saint-Pierre has a

population of 5,000 and is a popular anchor-age for yachts sailing the island chain. It also attracts scuba divers from around the world who come to explore the ships that sank when the volcano blew its top.

In 1917, victor depaz planted sugar cane in fields along mont Pelée’s slopes. every-one thought he was crazy, but thanks to the new layer of volcanic soil, the depaz estate became the richest sugar cane-producing land in the islands. to celebrate his good fortune, depaz brought in Italian stone-masons to construct his mansion. Begun in the early 1920s, the imposing residence took seven years to build and still stands as the most impressive sugar estate house on

50 fRaNce • fall 2007

Scenes from Martinique’s plantations, clockwise from top left: The recently restored windmill at Trois Rivières; the 19th-century Mas-

ters’ House at Habitation Clément, now a museum; the 18th-century Creole mansion at Habitation Lagrange, now a luxury hotel; bottles of

Neisson’s aged rhum agricole.

ed hamIltoN’s Route des Rhumsa tour of martinique’s historic distilleries

fRom fIeld to Bottle

Rhum agricole is either white, golden or dark,

depending on how long it is

aged. Dark rum is typically aged

in wooden casks.

martinique. as andré depaz told me one day while sipping aged rhum in his office, “my grandfather didn’t grow sugar cane in those fields, he grew gold.”

In the late ’90s, a welder’s spark started a fire that destroyed most of depaz’s aging warehouse. miraculously, the distillery sur-vived the inferno that burned through the night. It has since been rebuilt, and today you can take a self-guided tour and then en-joy samples of depaz rum in the gift shop.

The NorTh CoasT

from depaz, continue up the western slopes of mont Pelée. you may just catch a glimpse of the top of the volcano, the highest peak in the eastern caribbean, though it is usu-ally shrouded in clouds driven by the east-erly trades that brought ships to these islands for centuries. from here east to the atlantic, you will travel through the densest vegeta-tion in martinique, winding through lush botanical gardens, pineapple fields and ba-nana plantations.

after World War II, refrigerated freight-ers became much more common, creating

hours, the thickened, dark syrup was put in clay pots to cool. Mo-lasses, the heavy black liquid that didn’t crystallize, was separated from the crystallized sugar by opening a hole in the bottom of the pot. After a week or so, the sugar pots were broken, and the coarse dark sugar called “musco-vado” was collected for shipment to European markets.

When water was added to the thick molasses, it would ferment and could be distilled to make a crude alcohol that Robert Lignon in

1651 described as a “hot and vile liquor.” Over the years, fermenta-tion and distillation processes were refined, and rum gained respect as a world-class spirit.

Today rum is made from either freshly squeezed sugar cane juice, sugar-cane syrup or molas-ses. After yeast-induced fermen-tation, the wine is boiled and the alcohol-rich vapor is condensed into the spirit we call rum. If you imagine the difference between a sugar cane wine and a molasses wine, you’ll begin to understand the difference between rhum agri- cole and industrial rums made from molasses. In order to be palatable, most molasses-based rums are distilled to a high proof, essentially rendering them neutral spirits. By contrast, rhum agricole is distilled to about 72 percent alcohol, capturing the essence of the fresh sugar cane. —EH

In the early days, mature sugar cane stalks were cut by hand and carried in ox-drawn carts to wind- or animal-powered mills. There they were crushed to re-lease the sweet juice, which was then boiled in a series of pro-gressively smaller copper pots. As you travel the island, you’ll see some of these old ‘coppers’ being used as planters around plantations and distilleries.

After it had boiled for a few

from here east to the atlantic, you will travel through the densest vegetation in martinique, winding through lush botanical gardens, pineapple fields and banana plantations.

The picturesque J.M distillery, tucked into the dense tropical landscape of northern Martinique.

a boon for caribbean banana farmers who were able to increase exports to europe just as the fruit was gaining popularity. today most bananas grown here are sold in france, while pineapples, other tropical fruits and flowers are shipped around the world.

as you descend to lower elevations, the terrain flattens and the climate becomes drier and more suitable for sweet grass. When you reach the atlantic coast, head north to ma-couba. In 1694, the dominican priest and engineer Jean-Baptiste labat came to marti-nique and made many contributions to sugar production while working on his estate here. Père labat, as he is more widely known, is also credited with improving alcohol distil-lation, and several rum labels in the french islands still bear his name.

Just north of macouba is J.m, built here to harness the power of the small river that runs through this steep valley (its waterwheel was replaced by steam in the 19th century). seen from the hilltop, this picturesque prop-erty reveals the typical layout of a West Indian rum factory with its flowing water, distillery and stone warehouse, where bar-rels of clear rhum agricole are quietly aging into a fine golden spirit. J.m was recently purchased by the Bernard hayot group of martinique and is undergoing some resto-ration, but visitors are still welcome. don’t miss the old photographs of barrels being loaded aboard schooners on the rough at-lantic side of the island—a precarious opera-tion even during calm weather.

INlaNd aNd easT

If your route south takes you inland through gros morne, stop in at habitation saint-etienne, where you can enjoy a lush tropical setting and cooler mountain temperatures.

crab, dorado and tuna plucked fresh from the ocean. the old g. hardy distillery, on the lee side of the peninsula road, is no lon-ger in operation, but all of the machinery is still in place. Note the copper distillation equipment—a rarity today.

continuing south, near le françois, is habitation clément. founded in 1844 and originally called domaine de l’acajou, it is now a well-maintained museum of french

54 fRaNce • fall 2007

Previously the site of the sprawling la mau-gée sugar plantation, the property was pur-chased in 1882 and transformed into an agricultural rum distillery. the brand estab-lished a reputation for excellence and thrived until the 1960s, when damage from succes-sive hurricanes precipitated its decline. the current owners make saint-etienne at their other distillery (simon), then age and bottle it here. While touring the estate, note the thick-walled stone buildings, typical of island architecture before steel-reinforced con-crete became the standard.

If you opt instead for the coastal road, you can visit the saint-James distillery in sainte-marie, relocated here from saint-Pierre after 1902. Renowned for its trademark flat-sided bottles (designed for easy packing), saint-James claims that it was the most popular West Indian rum in the american colonies, “con-sumed from Williamsburg to Boston.” that may or may not be true (you will hear many such claims in these islands), but one thing’s for sure: It is the oldest marti-nique rum still made today.

saint-James’s charming creole house is now a mu-seum devoted to martinique’s rich rum history and the starting place for tours. on display outside are steam engines and sugar-making equipment dating back to the 18th century; inside, you can see exhibits of old tools, post-ers and other objects before heading for the mahogany bar, which beckons with the rums that have made saint-James famous. according to michel fayad, saint-James distillery historian, “the bar-rels are the secret to making the best aged rhum agricole.” the oak imparts tannin and vanilla, but getting just the right amount requires a savvy balance of old and new barrels.

a bit farther south is trinité and the tartane peninsula, a great place to stop for lunch. here seaside eateries serve lobster,

Discriminating consumers have long relied on the Appellation

d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) label to guide them in their selection of quality wines. In order to put the coveted designation on its bottles, a winemaker may use only certain grapes grown in a specific place and according to specific methods; harvesting, vinification and bottling must also adhere to strict rules. To-gether these specifications en-sure consumers that these wines are characteristic of a particular geographic location, respect certain quality standards and express a special savoir-faire.

In the 1970s, Martinique be-gan seeking an AOC designa-tion for its rhum agricole. The process was complicated by the fact that INAO, the govern-ing organization, had never established an AOC label for a product made outside of main-land France, let alone in a tropi-cal region. It took many years of work, but in 1996, AOC stan-dards were finally instituted.

They include pages and pages of rules and regulations, but the most important are quite simple: Martinique AOC rhum agricole must be made on the island us-ing only freshly squeezed juice from 12 of the more than 20 dif-ferent types of sugar cane grown

A.O.CMa r t i n i q u e

Appe

llation d’Origine Contrôlée

look foR the aoc laBelhere. The fresh rum must be distilled to not more than 75 per-cent alcohol by volume, though most rhum agricole is distilled to about 72 percent to maintain the best flavor.

After distillation, the clear rum, called Rhum Agricole Blanc, must rest in stainless steel tanks for at least three months prior to bottling. In order to be called Rhum Agricole Vieux, it must be aged at least three years in barrels having a capacity of less than 650 liters.

As with AOC wines, INAO inspectors regularly make anonymous visits to distilleries to ensure that its rules are being respected to the letter.

Distillers use a number of other terms to describe their products in addition to the terms defined by AOC rules; these names may mean something different from one distiller to the next. In general, golden rums, which are aged from one to two years, are called either Rhum Paille (“straw-colored rum”), Ambré, Élevé Sous Bois or Doré.

Darker rums, aged in casks for three or more years, some-times borrow nomenclature from the cognac industry (XO, VSOP). Ask what they imply, as they have no official meaning in the rum industry. Hors d’Age generally refers to the oldest rum from a distillery, and Mil-lésimé refers to rum made in a specific year. —EH

Top row: On many plantations, sugar cane is still cut by hand, then transported by tractor to the

distillery. Middle row: Distilleries house old copper stills as well as more modern equipment, ferment-ing vats and aging casks. Bottom row: Rum being

transported to the bottling plant; vintage advertising posters; a taste of white rhum agricole.

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Once the largest sugar plantation in Martinique, Trois Rivières is now a museum.

Offshore to the left is the imposing Rocher du Diamant.

The petit punch, or ti’punch as it is called here, is ubiquitous in Marti-nique. As simple as this drink is, the preparation is steeped in tradition. simply cut a slice off the side of a lime, then gently squeeze and drop it into a small glass. spoon a little raw sugar—Martinique’s raw sugar has a unique taste—or sugar-cane

1 2 3

tI’ PuNch

colonial life in a sugar plantation setting. de-clared a national monument in 1995, habi-tation clément hosted Presidents george Bush and françois mitterrand in 1991 for a post-gulf War summit. the distillery is no longer in operation (clément too is now made at the simon distillery), but the exten-sive gardens and a lovely creole house and museum are worth a visit, as are the frequent exhibits of works by caribbean artists. some hard-to-find clément rums are also available for tasting and purchase.

aloNg The souTherN CoasT

on martinique’s southern coast, about five miles west of sainte-luce, is trois Rivières, originally part of a 5,000-acre property that Nicolas fouquet, louis XIv’s superinten-dent of finance, awarded himself in 1661. the king’s fondness for sweets is credited with bringing sugar to the pinnacle of popu-larity, but while amassing great wealth on martinique, fouquet attracted the jealously of his monarch and died in prison in 1681. the site has changed hands many times since, its fortunes ebbing and flowing over the centuries.

trois Rivières rum has not been made here for many years, but the property is still open to visitors. a newly restored stone windmill demonstrates the original method of crushing sugar cane, and a converted oak aging vat serves as a gift shop where you can taste and purchase a variety of aged rums.

a couple of miles to the west of trois Rivières is le Rocher du diamant. legend contends that in 1805, during one of the many wars between france and england, captain hood claimed this mostly barren islet for his queen and renamed it h.m.s. diamond Rock. after 18 months of frustrat-ing french shipping and generally abusing the egos of the french army stationed only a mile away, rum from trois Rivières was floated on the tide to the english sailors who occupied the rock. the next morning, the Rocher du diamant was recaptured without further loss of life.

about a mile north of the town Rivière Pilote is la mauny, the largest distillery in martinique. during the rum season, more than 10 tons of sugar cane is crushed per hour. In the tasting room, you can sample la mauny as well as trois Rivières and duquesne rums, which are also distilled here. local artists work in studios on the estate and sell their wares in the distillery gift shop.

you will notice that la mauny’s grounds

are strewn with remains of burned machinery. this is the legacy of fires that took their toll during the last 100 years—a constant re-minder of the danger of making alcohol.

arouNd forT-de-fraNCe

even if you are on a short day trip to mar-tinique, there are two distilleries that you can easily reach from fort-de-france. on the outskirts of the city is the dillon distill-ery, which closed in 2006 due to economic and environmental pressures (processing distillery waste required additional real estate, which had become unavailable as the city grew up around it). this historic property is now being preserved as a mu-seum; in the tasting room, giselle, who has worked here for more than a decade, cheer-fully serves samples of dillon rum along with company lore.

among other things, she will tell you that the plantation was named after the american Revolutionary hero count arthur dillon, who married empress Joséphine de Beau-harnais’s cousin, laure girardin de mont-gérald, then the owner. Before you drink to his good fortune at coming into such wealth, you should know that the count was decapi-tated in 1794 after Robespierre accused him of conspiracy.

When leaving dillon, turn left out of the parking lot and follow the road through the bamboo forest to la favorite, the other remaining family-owned distillery in mar-tinique. originally built in 1842, it was the last to operate entirely on steam power. from the second floor of the distillery, visi-tors can observe the whole operation, from crushing the cane to distillation. la favorite doesn’t have organized tours, but visitors are welcome to see how rum has been made here for more than 100 years.

so who makes the best rum in marti-nique? the question is one of constant de-bate. from experience, I can tell you that once you spend some time learning how a distillery makes its rum, then enter the cool, dark stone warehouse where hundreds of barrels are quietly maturing, inhale the sweet musty scent and taste the contents of one of these oak casks, you will have tasted one of the best rums on the island. for me, the last rum I’ve tasted is always the best. so my research continues….

Edward Hamilton has written four books on rum and has compiled a database of more than 600 rums, which can be consulted on his Web site, MinistryOfRum.com. He is also the U.S. represen-tative for Neisson and La Favorite.

fRaNce • fall 2007 57

syrup (you’ll want to bring some back with you) over the lime, add a measure of white rhum agricole and stir. You’ll be served different rums depending on where you are on the island. In traditional bars, the server sets the ingredients in front of you, and you serve your-self. Don’t worry, you’ll always find helpful patrons to show you how to make the perfect ti’ punch. —EH

58 fRaNce • fall 2007

maRtINIque

IslaNdBasIcs

geTTINg There

From Miami: Air France has three flights weekly to Fort-de-France (departures Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays). airfrance.comFrom Atlanta: Beginning December 15, Delta will offer weekly flights to Fort-de-France (Saturday departures). delta.comFrom San Juan: Beginning November 15, American Eagle (a subsidiary of American Airlines) will schedule daily flights to Fort-de-France (there are currently five flights weekly). aa.com

lodgINg

Seaside resorts range from 10-room establishments to 300-room villages. Other lodging options include small hotels, family-run B&Bs, private villas—even private islands. Below are a few of the possibilities; a more complete listing is available on martinique.org.Cap Est Lagoon Resort and Spa When it opened in Le François in 2002, Cap Est set a new standard of luxury for Martinique hotels. Exotic woods and abaca fabrics are used throughout this Relais & Château property, which offers 50 colorful Creole-style villas (some with private pools), a Guerlain

Above: The Cap Est Lagoon and Spa, Martinique’s only Relais & Château property, redefines Caribbean chic

in a pristine island setting. Right: If ships on the horizon give you the urge to set sail, you can rent a

catamaran, with or without a skipper.

You’ll find local craftsand food at Martinique’smany outdoor markets.

Arts and Crafts Markets are also great places to pick up artwork. The one at La savane (at La Savane Park on rue Ernest Deproge), just east of Fort Louis in Fort-de-France, is an oa-sis of calm where you can meet local artists and peruse their wares. Morne-des-Esses is home to a number of local weavers who sell their work in the area, and sainte-Anne (near City Hall), on the southeastern peninsula, invites island artists to display their work on weekends.

exCursIoNs

Can’t look at the horizon without dreaming of going to the next island? From Le Marin, several large catama-rans sail daily to Saint Lucia, where you’ll enjoy swimming and lunch on board before returning before sunset. Or you can charter a yacht, with or without a captain, and chart your own course. catadelphis.com

eveNTs

Martinique has too many local celebra-tions to mention. A perennial favorite is the gommier races in March. The wooden hulls of these local sailing boats are similar to those used by the Carib Indians, and the annual round-the-island race is a always a thrill. Club des Gommiers, Tel. 596/596-76-73-45.

The Martinique Tourism Authority’s Web site, martinique.org, provides a calendar of island events as well as information on everything from cuisine and music to tours and shopping.

spa and a wide array of upscale amenities. Its award-winning restau-rant has been lauded for its refined interpretations of West Indian cuisine. Doubles from €450 per night. Tel. 596/596-54-80-80; capest.com.Club Med Buccaneer’s Creek A landmark Club Med property since it opened in 1969, Buccaneer’s Creek in Sainte-Anne unveiled a $60 mil-lion renovation in early 2006. The resort now includes 293 rooms, a 5,000-square-foot infinity pool, spa, three restaurants and other ameni-ties. As always, everything—such as water sports and transportation on a chartered airline from New York—is included in the weekly rate. Doubles from $1,260 per week; land only. Tel. 596/596-76-72-72; clubmed.us.Diamant Beach Hotel Situated on the southern coast, this small resort features great views of the famous rock and an intimate setting. Ten Creole- style villas house 49 apartments sleep-ing 2 to 6 persons. Doubles from €77 per night. Tel. 596/96-76-16-16; diamant-beach.com.Maison d’Hôtes Plein Soleil One of Martinique’s most popular boutique hotels, Plein Soleil and its restaurant are currently undergoing renovations and expansion. The property, which sits above Le François bay, is slated to reopen in November 2007; look for news on pleinsoleil.mq.

shoppINg

Rum No time to visit the distilleries? La Case à Rhum, with locations in Fort-de-France (5 rue de la Liberté) and at the airport, offers a very good selection of Martinique rums. Markets As you tour the island, you’ll come upon colorful outdoor markets in or near the town square. Usually open in the morning, they present an array of foods ranging from tropical fruit preserves to spiced rum. One of the spices commonly used to make these special rums is bois bandé, reputed to be an aphrodisiac.