fashion week x wwd

1. KAREN CHIANG Public Relations Spring 2013 Parsons The New School for Design

2. Table of Contents Cover Page..1 Table of Contents..2 Lead Articles & Sections.......3-8 Fashion Week Report9-24 Five Trends.25-30 Three Top Shows31-32 Press Release.33-34 WWD Editors List.35-36

3. Lead Articles & Sections K A R E N C H I A N G

4. Friday,February8,2013 Lead Article Playing for Keeps by Iman, founder and CEO of Iman Cosmetics Iman cosmetics understands that there is a dierent market that demands cosmetics that matches their skin tone. Great marketing strategy, they stressed diversity. They are the pioneer in the eld of cosmetics for dierent ethnics Iman Cosmetics tapped into the culture itself, to understand what the market needs and wants. For example, hiring people from local communities for focus groups and learning their language Sections Beauty Marc Jacobs Moves Show Eye Fashion Scoops Multicultural Consumer New York Collections Fall 2013 10 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2013 beauty beauty brand that lled the gap for black women because it was deeply personal for me. It was more than foundations and powders; it was ap- pealing to a deep psychologi- cal need that I think all black women needed at that time: to be told that they were beautiful, invited to sit at the cool table and courted in high style. However, as we gathered more information about the game we were in, we started to shift into the more holistic vision that we are known for now throughout our positioning and advertising: Women of all skin tones want to look good when they rule the world. That is our funda- mental principle. osmetics, how to resonate with their cultural group. It starts at home. 2. Free Your Mind: Marketers can be incredibly perceptive about trends but tend to ste- reotype multicultural markets. Multicultural markets are nu- anced, but not alien. 3. Take It to the Streets: Im not a big fan of the expert opinion. Nothing really beats hearing it specic cultural groups, but if advertising may be potentially offensive. Showing a collarbone to advertise luminous skin may be a norm in one country, but may be con- sidered lascivious in another. 5. Be a Flagrant Button Pusher: Were a big fan of what some marketers call the wink. This is when a general market advertisement or marketing cam- paign has a subversive message of alliance to a multicultural group with a sly social cue that is completely devoid of stereo- type. Again, this is where sophistication comes in. Theres usually an insider reference that someone who is not part of that group would miss, thus hitting a sweet spot of recognition. Multicultural consumers often dont want to be singled out, just included. tones of color spend their dis- posable dollars on beauty, and split the variables every which way to Sunday but in the end the ndings were unequivocal. Well, what if she lives in Nashville versus New York? She wants to the you clearly have to be in bed with the multicultural consumer. It would be an exercise in foolish- ness not to invite this customer out to play. But the playground mentality has been industry standard for longer than it needs to be, where someone new rolls he atten- {Continued from page one} Itwouldbeanexercise infoolishnessnotto ethemulticultural VIEWPOINT The Multicultural Consumer: DontJustDateHer,MarryHer TANKTHINK BY IMAN Iman founded Iman Cosmetics, a groundbreaking beauty collection designed for women with skin of color, in 1994. Discovered in Nairobi in 1973 by Peter Beard, Iman became one of fashions most iconic models throughout the Seventies and Eighties. Today her products are sold throughout the world. 10 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2013 beauty beauty brand that lled the gap for black women because it was deeply personal for me. It was more than foundations and powders; it was ap- pealing to a deep psychologi- cal need that I think all black women needed at that time: to be told that they were beautiful, invited to sit at the cool table and courted in high style. However, as we gathered more information about the game we were in, we started to shift into the more holistic vision that we are known for now throughout our positioning and advertising: Women of all skin tones want to look good when they rule the world. That is our funda- mental principle. At Iman Cosmetics, we stick to a basic business strategy that starts with marketing and actually extends to a cor- porate positioning. 1. Whats Your MI (Multicultural Intelligence)?: This is the spring- board for any marketing group that wishes to take a sophisticated approach to advertising and builds sustainable brand loyalty. How diverse is the group sitting at the boardroom table? Chances are, if there is how to resonate with their cultural group. It starts at home. 2. Free Your Mind: Marketers can be incredibly perceptive about trends but tend to ste- reotype multicultural markets. Multicultural markets are nu- anced, but not alien. 3. Take It to the Streets: Im not a big fan of the expert opinion. Nothing really beats hearing it from the horses mouth, because direct communication with the communities of interest lends authenticity to insights. Hire people from local communities as focus-group moderators. 4. Know the Language: Any marketing group has to be on board with cultural mores. If youre specic cultural groups, but if advertising may be potentially offensive. Showing a collarbone to advertise luminous skin may be a norm in one country, but may be con- sidered lascivious in another. 5. Be a Flagrant Button Pusher: Were a big fan of what some marketers call the wink. This is when a general market advertisement or marketing cam- paign has a subversive message of alliance to a multicultural group with a sly social cue that is completely devoid of stereo- type. Again, this is where sophistication comes in. Theres usually an insider reference that someone who is not part of that group would miss, thus hitting a sweet spot of recognition. Multicultural consumers often dont want to be singled out, just included. 6. Dont Just Date Her, Marry Her: If you target a multicultural group one year, you cant simply drop that group because theres a new trend and focus. If groups are not courted on a continuous basis, they just go nd a brand that will treat them the way they deserve to be treated, and this negligence translates to a hit on your ROI (return on investment). Period. tones of color spend the posable dollars on beaut split the variables every way to Sunday but in the e ndings were unequivoca what if she lives in Nas versus New York? She w look good when she rul world. Or how about 18 to sus 35 to 50? She wants t good when she rules the Or a median income of $ versus one over $100,000 wants to look good whe rules the world. We can change the aesthetics; w to change our thinking. Everyone is hip to th {Continued from page one} Itwouldbeanexercise infoolishnessnotto invitethemulticultural customerouttoplay. VIEWPOINT The Multicultural Consumer: DontJustDateHer,MarryHer TANKTHINK BY IMAN Iman founded Iman Cosm designed for women with Nairobi in 1973 by Peter B iconic models throughou products are sold throug The Coach Love bottle (new fragrance for Valentines Day)

5. Monday,February11,2013 Lead Article Chinas Changing Labor by Kathleen E. McLaughlin Government seek to raise minimum wage by 2015. This will encourage more rural workers to ll jobs in the cities Foxconn, the countrys largest private employer, is allowing employees to vote their union representatives. This movement could change the countrys the manufacturing industry and labor force Textiles and apparel industries feel pressure to follow suit, especially if the outcome is favorable to workers Sections Accessories Innerwear/legwear Beauty Marc Jacobs Moves Show Fashion Scoops Multicultural Consumer New York Collections Fall 2013 Nicole Miller 8 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2013 Monique Lhuillier: Since her spring presentation five months ago, Tommy Hilger: The historic Park Avenue Armory was zip-up jackets and a Prince of Wales print on topcoats. band jackets to riffs on tuxedo dressing, which the designer Outsiders womens collection. Retro staples like A-line Billy ReidTommy HilgerMonique Lhuillier Billy Reid FALL NEW YORK 2013 COLLECTIONS LONDONFASHIONWEEKLONDONFASHIONWEEK MACCOSMETICS.TUMBLR.COM NEWYORKFASHIONWEEK WWD.COM FIRE SAFETY REFORMS: A handful ofpeople from the International LaborRights Forum distributed iers Sundayafternoon in front of Lincoln Centerprior to Trina Turks fashion show,protesting Gaps re safety program.In the wake of recent factory res inBangladesh and Pakistan that havekilled hundreds of apparel workers,ILRF is calling for apparel companies toshare their knowledge about workplacehazards openly and pay sufcient pricesto factories for necessary buildingrepairs. Were asking Trina Turk todo the right thing, said Liana Foxvog,director of organizing for the ILRF. Sheexplained that Turk did a line last yearfor Banana Republic and we believeshe has the ear of the Gap. According to ILRF, Gaps monitorsrepeatedly gave a clean bill of healthto Thats It Sportswear, the Bangladeshfactory that burned in December 2010,killing 29 workers, many leaping totheir deaths from the upper oors of thebuilding because locked stairway doorsprevented their escape. ILRF is calling on Gap to adopt are safety program which would helpsave workers lives in Bangladesh. Theorganization planned to go to the Gapstore Sunday to deliver a message to thestore mana Fendi chairman and chief executiveofcer Pietro Beccari called the projectan example of the Roman rms three-dimensional approach to makingbeautiful things. Carla Fendi was to join DAMACexecutives at a press conference todayat the Dubai International FinancialCenter to unveil the project. DAMAC hascompleted 37 buildings to date, spanningalmost 8,000 residential units, with 65other buildings in development acrossthe Middle East and North Africa. MILES SOCHA TAKE FIVE: For the fth part of Miu MiusTales short series, the Italian brandtapped award-winning director AvaDuVernay to shoot The Door, whichfeatures Gabrielle Union, Alfre Woodard,Emayatzy Corinealdi, Adepero Oduye andsinger-songwriter Goapele.The lm a little over nine minutesin length focuses on an actual door onthe modernist house of a main character(Union) who just went through a break-up. Friends come through that door toconsole her and, with their support, sheeventually overcomes her sadness andis able to move on. The door in the lm when asked if she preferred the frontrow. I was so blessed and grateful. It wasa wonderful, meaningful moment for melast season to walk for Wang. I had neverwalked for him so it meant a lot. The fact[was] that he was supporting me throughsomething that was [a] really trying time.Now I want to support him because hesso wonderful and hes got such incrediblethings happening.It showed a strengththat I needed. Across the runway from Ross in thesmoky space, other front-row attendeesincluded Zo Kravitz, Alison Mosshart andA$AP Rocky, who mugged for the cameraswith Terry Richardson MATTHEW LYNCH BACK TO BLACK: London is veryunusualI think you can do knee-length, midlength or long, said WilliamBanks-Blaney, founder of William Vintage,of the local red-carpet etiquette aheadof the BAFTAs. Theres a greater senseof individuality. I think you can be abit different and be yourself a little bitmore. Banks-Blaney, whose Londonstore specializes in vintage couture, andGillian Anderson cohosted a pre-BAFTAdinner on Friday night in collaborationwith Adler Jewellers. The BAFTAs Britains answer to the Academy Awards took place on Sunday night. Guestsincluded Laura Carmichael, Lily Cooper, LaraBohinc, Patrick Grant and Johanna Johnston.Vintage decadence was th popped around her. It was the rstfashion week appearance for Clarke,who is in rehearsals for Breakfast atTiffanys on Broadway and soundedsmitten with New York, blizzard and all.New York as a city is just phenomenaland Ive fallen head over heels in lovewith it, she said. I braved the heels.Elsewhere in the front row, theDanish singer Oh Land took some timeto dispel a Nordic winter weatherstereotype. Everybody suspects thatwhen youre from Denmark you will belike all good. But yeah its way too coldfor me, she laughed. I want to go to thesouth. Theres not a lot of viking in me. 19 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2013 FASHIONSCOOPS Emilia Clarke PHOTOBYSTEVEEICHNER colorful and intriguing clothes. More controlled in volume compared to her spring show, the suits and loose top-and- pants combos looked great in head-to-toe prints. Relaxed candy-colored angora sweaters were scrumptious and a lovely mother-of-pearl pattern was worked in various tones on a coat, dress and matching blouse and skirt. Tibi: Sportswear, Nineties utilitarian, synthetic versus natural fabrics. Those were just a few of the descriptors designer Amy Smilovic called out backstage when describing her latest collection. Sportswear is what Tibi does best. Forget matchy-matchy these were great pieces that a girl can put together in any number of ways, from dresses worn over pants to a knit dickie with a T-shirt. Working in a predominantly black-and-white palette with pops of brights, Smilovics outerwear looked particularly good in sculpted shapes, some with removable quilted vests and shearling linings for multiseasonal wear. The designer also continued her recent love affair with Neoprene, using it for hoodies and boxy T-shirts that paired well with slouchy pants and oversize leather shorts. Smilovics key print was comprised of abstract dots but most of the pattern was created with contrasting patches of color or materials like leather and ponyskin that gave a graphic, textured look. DKNY: Having just launched a collaboration with Opening Ceremony featuring reissues of early Nineties DKNY hits, Donna Karan returned to that period for fall, but this time through a hip-hop lens. Terric oversize parkas and sweatshirts were featured, as well as fun animal prints that brought to mind the work of Stephen Sprouse. Karan also added large rounded shoulders to her silhouettes, particularly on structured mini- dresses and tops that combined multiple fabrics including Neoprene. But the few evening looks here long, owing dresses over skinny pants felt out of synch with the rest of her strong sports- skirt crocheted in an ethnic pattern. Rose was playing on a Brothers Grimm fairy-tale inspiration but there wasnt a Rapunzel in sight. Some dresses, like the swirling Robert Geller: The dark romanticism of Twenties Berlin permeated Robert Gellers collection, whose plays on elongated proportions and artful layering continued to mature this season. The designer referenced German overall styling looked cleaner and more contemporary. Geller has created a rmly identiable look that is brooding, modern and emblematic of a cool constituency in mens wear. Tracy Reese: Tracy Reese looked black, anima She paired s leather moto fun one done con dresses all black wer comfort but to move from FALL NEW YORK 2013 COLLECTIONS Robert Geller

6. Tuesday,February12,2013 Lead Article Milans Export Drive by Luisa Zargani Exports are saving the Italian more and more. Sales outside of Italy is expected to reach a new high in 2013 Italian brands are depending on international markets to bring revenue in. The countries that are bringing most revenue are: Brazil, Russia, India, and China Even with the economic crisis and upcoming elections in Europe. Many are still positive about their sales this upcoming year. Versace group CEO Gian Giacomo Ferraris is condent for a double-digit growth in 2013 Sections Textile Ready to Wear Pop-Up Strategy Milan Preview Beauty Beat Milestone EVA MENDES TO DO LINE FOR NEW YORK & CO. PAGE 4 NEW YORK WOMAN WWDTUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 WOMENS WEAR DAILY $3.00 POP-UP STRATEGY Dior In Major Push Of Raf Simons Line By MILES SOCHA PARIS Raf Simons rst collection for Dior is arriv- ing at retail this month, accompanied by fanfare on a global scale. Dior is orchestrating a series of pop-up shops with key wholesale partners in the coming weeks, trans- planting the decor and atmosphere of Simons ready- to-wear show in Paris last September to retailers including Joyce in Hong Kong, 10 Corso Como in Milan, Maxeld in Los Angeles, Isetan in Tokyo, My Boon in Seoul and I.T. in Beijing. This is a new New Look, declared Dior chief executive Sidney Toledano, referring to the extravagant, WWD MILESTONES DENNIS BASSO AT 30. SECTION II WWD.COM WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 20138 By ALESSANDRA TURRA MILAN Europes economic uncertain- ty didnt stop the creativity of the high- end Italian textile rms that presented innovative products at the 16th edition of Milano Unica, the three-day textile trade show that closed here on Friday. In 2012, the Italian textile industry posted a 5.1 percent drop in revenues to 8 billion euros, or $10.4 billion at average exchange rates, compared with 2011. According to data provided by Italian fashion and textile consortium SMI Sistema Moda Italia, textile products dropped 3 Branding, innovation and internation- alization were the key ingredients highlighted by Ermenegildo Zegna Group chief executive ofcer Gildo Zegna to succeed in the current market. The company, which closed 2012 reporting a 12 percent increase in revenues up to 1.25 billion euros, or $1.6 billion, forecast single-digit growth in 2013. The year will be difcult, especially in the rst part, also due to the strong euro, Zegna said. Zegna pointed to the role of silk as one of the reasons for the brands success in international markets. He said, Starting to combine silk with our traditional - Silk, an innovative denimlike silk fabric. The world of denim is extremely important and we like the idea of combining it with something classic and traditional like silk, Bocchese said. This reflects our current strategy focused on re- interpreting silk fabrics, our core products, in an Botto Fila ceo Alberto Bertoni also listed the strong euro and its impact on export pricing, in addition to dif- culties in obtaining bank credit, as among the problems that could affect the market in the coming months. At the fair, Botto Fila, which generates 70 percent of its revenues outside Italy, presented a collection focused on comfortable fabrics, mixing superne wool with stretch materials. Patterns ranged from micro-houndstooth, soft tartans and thin pin- stripes to crease-resis- tant wool fabric. Technology took center stage at Marzotto as well, which launched Scudo, a line that features waterproof and breathable fabrics made of cotton, a cotton-and- 8 Alcantara M Innovation Key at Milano Unica textiles WWD.COM WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 By ALESSANDRA TURRA N Europes economic uncertain- dnt stop the creativity of the high- talian textile rms that presented ative products at the 16th edition of o Unica, the three-day textile trade that closed here on Friday. 2012, the Italian textile industry d a 5.1 percent drop in revenues to ion euros, or $10.4 billion at aver- xchange rates, compared with 2011. ding to data provided by Italian fash- nd textile consortium SMI Sistema Italia, textile products dropped 3 nt in 2012, even with positive results pan, Russia, the U.S. and China. lping to give a positive feeling to ex- ors, Sir Paul Smith, a regular at the which this season saw the number of rs increase 5.5 percent compared February 2012, kicked off the show an insightful speech during the inau- Branding, innovation and internation- alization were the key ingredients highlighted by Ermenegildo Zegna Group chief executive ofcer Gildo Zegna to succeed in the current market. The company, which closed 2012 reporting a 12 percent increase in revenues up to 1.25 billion euros, or $1.6 billion, forecast single-digit growth in 2013. The year will be difcult, especially in the rst part, also due to the strong euro, Zegna said. Zegna pointed to the role of silk as one of the reasons for the brands success in international markets. He said, Starting to combine silk with our traditional - bers has been a very smart strategy that enabled us to enrich summer collections with products featuring the same luxury standards of the winter season. At Milano Unica, the Biella-based company presented a new fabric mixing mohair with silk. This is also available with Cool Effects technology that reduces the absorp- Silk, an innovative denimlike silk fabric. The world of denim is extremely important and we like the idea of combining it with something classic and traditional like silk, Bocchese said. This reflects our current strategy focused on re- interpreting silk fabrics, our core products, in an unconventional and creative way. Denim also inspired Loro Pianas Lin de Nmes, a linen fabric with a denim effect designed for mens and womens casual pants and outerwear. In addition, the company introduced mens lightweight, crease-resis- Botto Fila ceo Alberto Bertoni also listed the strong euro and its impact on export pricing, in addition to dif- culties in obtaining bank credit, as among the problems that could affect the market in the coming months. At the fair, Botto Fila, which generates 70 percent of its revenues outside Italy, presented a collection focused on comfortable fabrics, mixing superne wool with stretch materials. Patterns ranged from micro-houndstooth, soft tartans and thin pin- stripes to crease-resis- tant wool fabric. Technology took center stage at Marzotto as well, which launched Scudo, a line that features waterproof and breathable fabrics made of cotton, a cotton-and- silk blend, stretch poplin and wool paired with an exclusive high-tech Japanese membrane. Marzotto-owned velvet- maker Redaelli Velluti launched lightweight linen corduroy, available in a nat- Alcantara M M Bocchese nnovation Key at Milano Unica extiles WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY,FEBRUARY12,2013 8 ByALESSANDRATURRA MILANEuropeseconomicuncertain- tydidntstopthecreativityofthehigh- endItaliantextilermsthatpresented innovativeproductsatthe16theditionof MilanoUnica,thethree-daytextiletrade showthatclosedhereonFriday. In2012,theItaliantextileindustry posteda5.1percentdropinrevenuesto 8billioneuros,or$10.4billionataver- ageexchangerates,comparedwith2011. AccordingtodataprovidedbyItalianfash- ionandtextileconsortiumSMISistema ModaItalia,textileproductsdropped3 percentin2012,evenwithpositiveresults inJapan,Russia,theU.S.andChina. Helpingtogiveapositivefeelingtoex- hibitors,SirPaulSmith,aregularatthe fair,whichthisseasonsawthenumberof visitorsincrease5.5percentcompared withFebruary2012,kickedofftheshow withaninsightfulspeechduringtheinau- guralpressconferenceonWednesday. Smithhighlightedtheimportancefor fashiondesigners,whomheviewsastoo shelteredintheirivorytowers,toat- tendtradeshowsinordertobeinspired andmeetpeople.Tomeetthechallenges ofthemarket,theBritishdesignersug- gestedentrepreneursshouldpushtheir creativityandthinklaterallytocreate brandsfocusedonindividualityand thathaveaclearpointofviewanda balancebetweenmorecommercialand fashionableproducts. Branding,innovationandinternation- alizationwerethekeyingredientshigh- lightedbyErmenegildoZegnaGroup chiefexecutiveofcerGildoZegnato succeedinthecurrentmarket.Thecom- pany,whichclosed2012reportinga12 percentincreaseinrevenuesupto1.25 billioneuros,or$1.6billion,forecastsin- gle-digitgrowthin2013. Theyearwillbedifcult,especially intherstpart,alsoduetothestrong euro,Zegnasaid. Zegnapointedtotheroleofsilkasone ofthereasonsforthebrandssuccessin internationalmarkets.Hesaid,Starting tocombinesilkwithourtraditional- bershasbeenaverysmartstrategythat enabledustoenrichsummercollections withproductsfeaturingthesameluxury standardsofthewinterseason. AtMilanoUnica,theBiella-basedcom- panypresentedanewfabricmixingmohair withsilk.ThisisalsoavailablewithCool Effectstechnologythatreducestheabsorp- tionofsunlight,allowingmentoweardark- coloredsuitsduringthesummer. Manyoftheexhibitorsatthetrade showconrmedthatsilkisontheup- swing.Theincreaseddemandforthe naturalberisprobablythereasonfor theinstabilityofitsprice,whichhassig- nicantlyriseninthelastfewmonths. Duetosilkshighcost,wehadto raiseourpricesby5to10percent,said Bocchese1908ceoMicheleBocchese. InkeepingwiththecompanysDNA, theItalianrmlaunchedDenimLoves Silk,aninno- vativedenimlike silkfabric.Theworld ofdenimisextremelyim- portantandwelikethe ideaofcombiningitwith somethingclassicand traditionallikesilk, Bocchesesaid.This reflectsourcurrent strategyfocusedonre- interpretingsilkfabrics, ourcoreproducts,inan unconventionalandcre- ativeway. DenimalsoinspiredLoro PianasLindeNmes,alinen fabricwithadenimeffectdesigned formensandwomenscasualpantsand outerwear.Inaddition,thecompanyin- troducedmenslightweight,crease-resis- tantwoolfabricAccademia,alongwith AquaWool,amachine-washableknit woolfabricavailableinpiquorjersey. Ourstrategyisdenitelynotdrivenby fear,insteadwearepushingonresearch creatingnewinnovativeproducts,said ceoPierLuigiLoroPiana,whoforecast thatthecompany,whichsawitstextile unitclose2012witha5percentincrease, willkeepgrowingin2013.Imcondent thatboththeU.S.andChinawillperform prettywellthisyear,despitetherising valueoftheeuro. BottoFilaceoAlbertoBertonialso listedthestrongeuroanditsimpact onexportpricing,inadditiontodif- cultiesinobtainingbankcredit,as amongtheproblemsthatcouldaffect themarketinthecomingmonths. Atthefair,BottoFila,which generates70percentofitsrev- enuesoutsideItaly,presenteda collectionfocusedoncomfortable fabrics,mixingsupernewoolwith stretchmaterials.Patternsranged frommicro-houndstooth, softtartansandthinpin- stripestocrease-resis- tantwoolfabric. Technologytook centerstageat Marzottoaswell, whichlaunched Scudo,aline thatfeatures waterproofand breathablefab- ricsmadeofcot- ton,acotton-and- silkblend,stretch poplinandwool pairedwithanexclu- sivehigh-techJapanese membrane. Marzotto-ownedvelvet- makerRedaelliVellutilaunchedlight- weightlinencorduroy,availableinanat- uralcolorpalette.Silk-makerandprint specialistRattiusednewtechniquesto obtainsophisticatedandunusualpat- terns,showingexploded-likedotsand Bretonstripes. Shirt-fabric-makerTestaalsoplayed withpatterns,includingmoreelegant stripesandchiccasualchecksprinted oncottonandcotton-and-linen-blend fabrics.Thecompanyalsoembracedone oftheseasonsbiggesttrendsdenim intheformoftwo-tonehigh-end clothsforjeans. 8 Alcantara M M Bocchese InnovationKeyatMilanoUnica textiles ByARTHURFRIEDMAN NATIONALCOTTONCOUNCILecono- miststolddelegatesatthegroupsannu- almeetinginMemphisonSaturdaythat theoutlookforcottonthisyearwillbe inuencedbyChinaspolicydecisions andcontinuedcompetitionfromman- madebers. GaryAdams,NCCsvicepresidentof economicsandpolicyanalysis,saidrecent dataonbermarketsharedemonstrates themanychallengesfromsyntheticbers. Measuredonthebasisofpounds ofcottonber,the2012U.S.retailcot- tonmarket[about17millionbales]fell tothelowestlevelsince1996,amida fourthconsecutiveyearofdeclining marketshare,Adamssaid. Continuedgrowthinmilluseisbeing supportedbytherelativelystableprice patternofrecentmonths,morecompeti- tivepriceswhencomparedwithpolyes- ter,andmorefavorablespreadsbetween yarnvaluesandberprices,henoted. Chinascurrentpolicyisanotherfac- torlendingsupporttomilluseinother countries.Bypurchasingitsdomes- ticproductionatprices40to50cents aboveworldprices,Chinaisensuring thatitsinternalpricesarewellabove worldpricesandcausingitscottonspin- ningtobeuncompetitive,Adamsnoted. FabricmanufacturersinChinaarein- creasinglylookingtolltheiryarnde- mandwithimportedproduct. Chinaspolicy,whilesupportingpric- esreceivedbyfarmers,actsasataxon textilemillsandhasfurtheredtheshift CottonOutlookCloudedbyChina Runbypeople notformulas. While not putting the spotlight on politics, it cant be overlooked, said Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of Aeffe SpA, which con- trols the Alberta Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini brands and produces and distributes collections for Cacharel and Cdric Charlier. We can survive with bad political management, but with a correct one, we can do better.Ferretti has been increasingly internationaliz- ing and rejuvenating the group, which posted revenues of 254 million euros, or $325.1 million at average exchange, last year, with a 14 percent jump in the last quarter of 2012. The year did not start well but ended on a positive note, with s make us hope for the resDurin with the previous year. Asia-Pacic continued to be the Florence-based groups core market, but chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo said all geograph- ic areas responded well to the brand. Historically, in moments of crisis, we grow more, he said, citing the timeless nature of the product as one of the drivers. The company, which successfully went public two years ago, plans to further expand around the world in 2013.There are new and important potential a for business, he said.Asked aboutF WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 20 MILAN PREVIEW Exports a BoonFor Italy SARA BA years ol is defini fashion i The yo ist Giovaworked fedgy bagMoltedo benamesake l I was nstart my ownpushed me athe rst piecon fringe, sdesigner, whobag collection the hyper-femininethe Fifties and SixtieTo highlight thglamorous yet ironeach season Battafor A loo By A O Versaces store inManhattans SoHo. FOR MILANSCENE, SEE WWD.com/eye. {Continued from page one}

7. Wednesday,February13,2013 Lead Article Kors Looking to Grow With Retail, E-Commerce by Vicki M. Young In addition to their ongoing conversion of department store doors to shops-in-shop. Kors plan bring in North American e-commerce business business in February 2014 so it can create an omnichannel experience for customers, whether in-store or online Kors is developing new products to add to their line. Over the holiday season, the drivers of sales was small leather goods and handbags. Also, showing performance was the companys new jewelry business. Which could eventually be one of the biggest revenue generator for the brand nationally and internationally The company said it entered into a joint venture agree- ment with Exclusive Brands International to create MK Panama Holdings, which will enable Kors to expand its retail and wholesale presence in Central and South America, as well as the Caribbean Sections Sports Denim Las Vegas Preview Club Night The Runway Report WWD.COM WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 SECTION II WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW 12 Labels on the rise at Emerging Designer Showcase. Yigal Azroul ALEXANDER WANG Alexander Wang embraced the luxuriant textures and cozy feel of fuzzy fabrics, from rich knits to mohair to fur, to express his message in his Fall 2013 collection. Coupled with the softening of his trademark angular quality, the feel was modern and indulgent. A downtown edge came in the form of ribbed knit caps and oversized fur mittens. Grey overwhelmingly drove the line-up, though some touches of rust, and white and black were peppered into the mix. He also favored lowered waistlines and crisscross details for a chic sophistication. When it came to fur, pony took a front-and-center spot for its unparalleled reective properties, whereas kidskin fur and lamb helped Mr. Wang develop and dene his shapes. HERV LGER BY MAX AZRIA The classic Herv Lger bandage dress is, of course, on the menu for Fall 2013but in his show notes, Max Azria states that he draws inspiration from the works of several modern French artists. Unexpected oral and fauna references invoke the energy of the whimsical surrealist work he admires. This collection was darker and more discreet in mood from last year, and it delivered an intricate JASON WU Thanks to that stunning inaugural gown, 2013 looks to be another great year for Jason Wu. His Fall 2013 collection is a triumphal ode to femininity. Mr. Wu is becoming more comfortable with himself and isnt afraid to experiment. It seems he could be revealing a new sexiness that will somewhat redene his brand image. Glamorous, yet easy to wear, this collection energized and expanded Wus established aesthetic with striking, fun, and irty looks. This time around Wu took chic American sportswear styles and integrated them with a few updated street-chic pieces for a new vision of sophistication. Combining a black exotic skin jacket with a soft white skirt, or a fur-trimmed leather vest with a crisp buttoned-up white shirt may not raise an eyebrow. Yet when the juxtaposition transcends from day to evening, the looks become fresh and fun. JEN KAO Jen Kaos show felt a bit like Paris circa 1982. The vibe was young, and the delivery was impactful. Aside from great leatherwork, Ms. Kao introduced a brick pattern patchwork with geometric offshoots in black and indigo blues. She interspersed the pattern throughout, pairing it with leather, vinyl, denim, SON JUNG WAN Son Jung Wans Fall 2013 collection was an interesting medley that comfortably bridged Korean propriety with Western sartorial largesse. The collectiona presentation of unorthodox bipolarity inuenced by the Russian modernist art movement and the opulence of great Russian dwellingsread surpris- ingly modern. Blunt cuts and proportions were tapered with softer colors and luxe materials. Where harsher textiles dominated a look, more intricate treatments fostered sophistication. Her furs were as varied as her collection. She used fox, mink, Rex rabbit and lippi cat with equal condence, creating full or partial sleeves, epaulettes, wrapped collars and unisex ringed scarves. Her oversized gold sequin embroidered fox coat stole the show. YIGAL AZROUL Yigal Azroul favors looks that enhance the female silhouette. He uses small knits to swath torsos, belts and peplums to zone in on the midsection, stovepipe or PJ style trousers to elongate legs. Mr. Azroul also likes to wrap his girls in chunky sweaters and coats. With his Fall 2013 collection, he opted for an intricate, tailored t, even adding a bustier or two to ADVERTISEMENT Snow may have overtaken the Eastern Seaboard, but it didnt dampen New York Fashion Week at all. As they say, the show must go-on. Designers and show-goers marched on with unaltered enthusiasm as innovation and fresh, new creative interpretations expanded the fashion vocabulary. THE RUNWAY REPORT Herv Lger by Max Azria Son Jung Wan Jen Kao NEW YORK // FEBRUARY 13, 2013 Alexander Wang Jason Wu ADVERTISEMENT THE R RSon Jung Wan NEW Alexander Wang Jason Wu

8. Thursday,February14,2013 Lead Article London Wants More Than a Fashion Moment by Samantha Conti Want to start up British luxury brands, no longer want to be a stopover for Milan, Paris, and New York London wants to reach for global consumers and push for British designers. Main goal is to put British designers on the map. According to the British Fashion Council, the number of major buyers from major U.S. stores will attend. The list includes Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdales Prime Minister David Cameron wants to reindustrialize the fashion industry in Britain. He wants to see more high end goods manufactured in Britain Sections Menswear Man of the Week Pushing for Performance Fashion Scoops WWD Digital Forum WWD.COM 4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2013 She stressed that fashion is for life not just four weeks a year. The British fashion industry operates 365 days a year across the world, and we intend to capitalize on its creativity, she said. We are at a crucial tipping point thanks to a perfect storm of talent working both here and abroad. This talent has con- sistently been the calling card of British designers, and with the unprecedented reach to a global consumer thanks to the Internet this is driving de- mand, and therefore sales, glob- ally for both British designer brands and for the global labels of which they are at the helm. Shes been in the job only since Jan. 1, but Massenet has already helped to attract private sector experts from the digital, tech, investment and retail worlds who are ready to con- tribute their time and talent to the BFC. In the coming weeks, the BFC will reveal that a big- name player from the digital world will begin a collaboration with them boosting British fashions online presence. This season, according to the BFC, the number of major buyers in attendance will be up 18 percent year-on-year, while a large number of U.S. stores will attend. The list includes Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdales. Earlier this year, for the first time, Prime Minister David Cameron threw his weight behind the industry, pumping up industry gures during a speech at Number 10 Downing Street. The speech and cocktail kicked off the January edition of London Collections: Men, the new stand-alone fashion showcase for mens wear launched by the BFC last year. Fashion is not just some sort of accessory, youre not an add-on, he told industry gures including Ford, Tommy Hilger, Richard James and Jonathan Saunders. The ultraenthusiastic Cameron also told his audience that he wants to see more high-end goods manufactured in Britain as part an overall strategy to reindustrialize the country. You have my 100 percent support, so just go for it! Cameron was taking a cue from his wife, Samantha Cameron, who has been a BFC ambassador since 2010, and who has been hosting her own cocktail parties at Number 10, together with the BFC. The next one will take place Friday night, with designers, buyers and press in attendance. Samantha Cameron knows the fashion crowd well since she re- mains creative consultant to the British luxury brand Smythson in addition to her duties as Britains First Lady. True, London fashion has witnessed golden moments before, most recently during the mid-Nineties when designers such as Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Antonio Berardi, Stella McCartney, Julien Macdonald and Matthew Williamson rose to prominence. But those designers eventually quit London and decamped to Paris, Milan or New York where the money, buyers and international press were. London gradually faded again into its perennial role: an interesting stopover on the calendar if there was time to see the latest crop of designers trained by the citys famed fashion schools, and to visit the innovative retail concepts that seemed to spring up all over the city like mushrooms. This time around, designers are increasingly staying put in a town that is attracting more money, international attention and more major names than ever before thanks in large part to the groundwork laid down by the BFC over the past few years. Ford has said his decision to show both his mens and womens collections in London was a natural one. Ive had a house here since 1997, my design studio is here and I love London. In many ways its my home. A lot of [my decision] was personal, he said. In addition, by the end of this year, Ford will have 93 stand- alone stores and shops-in-shop, including an 8,000-square-foot unit on Sloane Street due to open in the second half. So we need to be doing a proper womens wear show. Were committed to London for the near term, and as long as we can attract the press we need, well stay here. Ultimately, that will be the test, he said. Scott, who in past seasons has shown and presented in New York and Paris, said she always goes to the beat of her own drummer when it comes to picking a city. I really wanted to show in London this time. Its where I create, the team is here, and it feels like the right time, especially as we build and expand the business in Europe. The city itself is full of excitement and is far more important internationally than people give it credit for, she said, adding that she does her print and fabric development, embroidery work and tailoring in the U.K. Even London Fashion Week veterans are getting renewed attention of late, especially on the nancial front. Over the past six months and well before Kanes deal with PPR two London Fashion Week xtures secured funding for their labels with an eye to further international expansion. In September Amanda Wakeley, the brand known for its bridal collections, long silk dresses, coats and suits favored by the Duchess of Cambridge, secured significant financial investment from private equity firm AGC Equity Partners, following the restructuring of the business. The funds are being used to develop the company as a luxury lifestyle brand. Luxury goods management veteran Sagra Maceira de Rosen is working with Wakeley, who launched the label in 1990, and who serves as creative director. In August, Mayhoola for Investments took a minority stake in Anya Hindmarch in a deal valuing the business at 70 million pounds, or $110 million. Mayhoola, a vehicle backed by a private investor group from the Qatari monarchy, is the same company that acquired Valentino Fashion Group in July. Over the next four years Hindmarch, who founded the company 25 years ago, plans to upgrade the business, ne-tune the brand positioning and boost the geographical reach together with ceo James McArthur. 4 LONDON PREVIEW London Set for the Spotlight By DAVID MOIN LINDA HEASLEY WILL join Lane Bryant on Monday as president and chief executive officer, leaving behind Limited Stores, where she held the same titles for the past six years. Heasleys challenge will be to further a strategy already set in motion by Lane Bryants new owner to modernize and turn around the performance of the $1 billion, 800-unit large-size specialty chain. Lane Bryant is a bit of a challenged business, acknowledged David Jaffe, president and ceo of the Ascena Retail Group Inc., which last spring acquired the retailer through its $890 million deal for Charming Shoppes Inc. While Ascenas total company sales, Internet included, were up 1 percent on a com- parable basis in the last quarter, Lane Bryant was down 9 percent. We purchased Charming Shoppes to get to Lane Bryant. Its where we see the potential. Its an iconic, 100-year-old business, said Jaffe. There have been some changes of strategy over the last 10 years at Lane Bryant, hurting the performance and perception of the business. Now we are trying to build a consistent look and brand that customers will feel good about. We believe these customers should be afforded the same fashion choices and the same opportunities to feel good about the way she dresses, Jaffe said. Heasleys appointment is expected to be revealed today. The president and ceo slot at Lane Bryant has been vacant since last fall when Brian Woolf retired. Jaffe listed a host of accomplishment by Heasley at The Limited, among them revamping product lines and introduc- ing new brand positioning and a new plus-size line, launching e-commerce and a new store design, and returning The Limited to sustained protability for the rst time in 17 years. Earlier in her career, she held senior-level roles at Timberland, Limited Brands and CVS. Since the fall, Ascenas strategy at Lane Bryant has been to update the mer- chandise, marketing and image. Theres a new logo and fresher colors seen in the advertising, direct mail and in-store vi- suals. The whole idea is to bring Lane Bryant up to the current modern aesthetic of the customer, Jaffe said. The strategy also involves shifting much of the store base from malls to strip centers through store openings and relo- cations. Ascena, with its other divisions including Dress Barn and Maurices, is comfortable operating stores in strip centers and believes they provide the greatest convenience to customers. At least 50 new stores are seen opening in the next three years, and in two weeks, a 6,000-square-foot Lane Bryant will open on New Yorks 34th Street, between Seventh and Eighth Avenues. Jaffe said the site will be the Lane Bryant agship and prototype for future stores. Another opportunity is to grow the online business, where 15 percent of Lane Bryants sales are currently conducted. Thats a higher percentage than most retailers, which are generally around 10 percent or less. FOR MORE COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ eye. Heasley to Lane Bryant as CEO {Continued from page one} Julien Macdonald on the runway for spring 2012. Tom Ford Alice Temperleys store in London. Linda Heasley PHOTOBYKYLEERICKSEN STOREPHOTOBYINDIGO/GETTYIMAGES;FORDBYSTEVEEICHNER;MACDONALDBYGIOVANNIGIANNONI by DAVID LIPKE NEW YORK Lanvin marked the opening of its new mens boutique at 807 Madison Avenue on Tuesday evening. The crowd, which included Theophilus London, Monique Pan, Timo Weiland, Alexis Stoudemire, Charlotte Sarkozy and Dr. Lisa Airan, explored the three-level store, located in a historic town- house. Two of the oors above the store are occupied by Lanvin ofces. The 4,200-square-foot store, which opened to the public last month, is the first mens boutique in the U.S. and is situated a few doors away from an existing womens boutique at 815 Madison Avenue. The store design is a new concept conceived by Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz and archi- tects MR Architecture + Decor. A similar design is used in newly opened Chicago, Hong Kong and Beirut boutiques. A man needs to be reassured, to be heard, to get straight to the point, and to know in an instant that he is in a place of expertise. I wanted to recreate the spirit of an htel par- ticulier where each wall, each piece of furniture, each detail alludes to a savoir-faire and discreet luxury which calls upon the highest quality materials, said Elbaz, who was not present at the opening party. The rst oor houses the runway collections of mens designer Lucas Ossendrijver, with the rear spaces dedicated to sportswear, accessories and sneakers. The latter category has been a key sales driver in mens, and this season Lanvin introduced its rst cross-training sneaker. Tailored clothing, furnishings and formalwear are housed on the second oor, including a built- in wall unit for dress shirts and an antique vitrine for bow ties, pinned like butteries. The third oor offers a VIP salon and made- to-measure service, in an elegant room anchored by an Art Deco chandelier and the townhouses original replace. Mens comprises 20 percent of total U.S. sales in Lanvin stores and 15 percent in wholesale. Lanvin now operates seven stores in the U.S., including the two New York agships; dual-gender stores in Chicago, Las Vegas and Beverly Hills, and womens-only stores in Bal Harbour, Fla., and Malibu, Calif. A new womens store will open in South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., midyear. JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE: B+Man of THE WEEK The pop stars infatuation with clothes is reaching new heights with the release of his single Suit & Tie, in which he calls out Tom Ford in the video. No shocker, then, that he chose the designer to dress him for the awards season, including Sunday nights Grammys. Lanvin Mens Store Opens on Madison China Crackdown Could Hit Mens by CASEY HALL SHANGHAI With incoming President Xi Jinping repeatedly flagging a crackdown on corruption and conspicuous consumption as top priorities for his government, China watchers are concerned the result may be a hit for a mens market traditionally buoyed by the cultural practice of gift giving. A new frugal working style rule on civil servants also ofcial- ly went into effect last October, banning those paid from the public purse from throwing lavish banquets, buying expensive cars and accepting luxurious gifts. Gift giving and bribery are both widespread in China, and their pervasiveness has been something of a boon for the worlds top luxury brands particularly in regards to the mens sector, which has traditionally been the backbone of Chinas luxury market. According to research from brokerage CLSA, men account for about 55 percent of Chinas luxury goods market, well above the global average of 40 percent. Studies from Bain & Co. have indicated that, between 2005 and 2009, the luxury goods market for men in China grew by 48 percent. By 2011, sales data at Beijings Sogo Department Store showed that men contributed 30 percent to its total sales, yet their individual expenditure was two to three times higher than female customers. Many within China are waiting to see just how serious the agged crackdown will be and how much impact it will have on gift giving, with experts divided on the potential for damage to luxury sales. If there is an effective crackdown on corruption, the gift- giving culture will be changed in China, said He Jiahong, a professor at Renmin University and an expert on corruption. I think the corrupt ofcials will be more careful, and will nd more invis- ible means for their wealth. Flora Sapio, a professor of Chinese law at the Chinese University of Hong Kong, said that while she believes the incoming government is serious about cracking down on corruption, the affect on gift giving and a culture of conspicuous consumption among Chinas political and business elite will be minimal. Today, gift-giving is a minor form of corruption. The best corrupt deals are to be made elsewhere: in the real estate sector, on the stock market, through the manipulation of public-private partnerships, just to name a few, Sapio said. The display of luxury goods testies to the lifestyle of Chinas political-economic elite, their income levels and consumption patterns. None of these is going to change signicantly in the near future, unless China experiences a serious economic downturn, which is highly unlikely, added Sapio. Whatever the future impact, the idea of a crackdown on corruption has been popular with the chattering classes, with a number of high prole outings of corrupt ofcials by Chinese netizens. One standout was the case of Brother Watch. The nickname was bestowed by the Chinese Internet on a lowly bureaucrat (with a commensurately lowly sal- ary) who was photographed wear- ing a number of expensive, prestige brand watches. Prestige watches have been a favored gift for politically, economi- cally and socially and sometimes all three powerful men in China and, in recent years, Beijings regular Party Congresses have become a parade of straight-faced suits sporting Rolex, Omega, Cartier and Patek Philippe timepieces. The rst watches were brought to China by French missionaries in the 17th century and were original- ly a gift to emperors and so on. So the love affair between watches and China and the relationship between men in China and the culture of gifting have developed in tandem, David Sadigh, chief executive ofcer of Digital Luxury Group, told WWD. The group recently released a report called World Luxury Index China: Watches. Research from Bain showed yearly sales of luxury watches fell 5 percent on Mainland China in 2012, compared to growth of as much as 40 percent in 2011, and statistics from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry show that Swiss watch exports to Mainland China dropped 27.5 percent year- on-year in September. Chinas slowing economy is obviously one factor at play in the slowdown of the formerly red-hot mens prestige watch market, but Sadigh points to the corruption crackdown as another cause. The impact of a crackdown on corruption in China is very important and we have already seen this, Sadigh said. I think we have to be very careful and we dont know what will happen, but I think for watches especially, as far as global brands are concerned, they should be very careful with how luxury goods and these kind of things will be per- ceived by this government. There is an upside for some within with high-end mens market in China, with Microsoft Advertisings Luxury Connoisseurs study nd- ing that more men are buying luxury goods for themselves than ever. If you look at the percentage of men buying for personal versus gifts, the majority is personal, even for men. Of the gift giving, men do a larger percentage, but over three-quarters of the mens market is still personal buying, said Adam Anger, the Greater China regions general manager for advertising and online at Microsoft. Pierre Xiao Lu, author of Luxury China, Market Opportunities and Potentials and a luxury business consultant, said this shift away from gifting and towards personal consumption will be a boon for the mens personal care segments, which he predicted will grow at a positive double-digit rate. Though other segments of the luxury market traditionally driv- en by men will perhaps grow at a slower rate than in recent years, Lu is quick to emphasize that there will still be growth. For fashion and accessories, I think they will be stable, but still growing. The most affected sectors will be watches and jewelry, other things from wine and spirits, yachts, cars, private jets will continue to grow at a stable rate, Lu said. Brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta have already invested heavily in the rising personal consumption of Chinese men on the lookout for stylish substance over excess bling by expanding their product ranges and setting up specialty gents stores in the Greater China region. I can say that for Ferragamo, the mens catego- ries [in China] are signicantly important, said Michele Norsa, ceo of Salvatore Ferragamo. All together worldwide, we do ap- proximately 40 percent in mens, and in China its 45 percent, so China is a particularly strong market for mens. Norsa believes his brand will be cushioned by the impact of any softening in the gift giving market because the belts, ties and wallets often given as gifts from Salvatore Ferragamo are not so ostentatious. We are not talking about items that could be subject to moral judgment. In addition, Norsa was condent that, even if there was an impact on business following a slowdown in gift giving, the increase in business from second- and third-tier cities, which are continuing to embrace luxury brands at a rapid pace, will more than make up for it. I was in China recently and I saw the mood after the political changes appears to be good, so we are looking forward to 2013 to being a positive year, Norsa said. The lead up to Chinese New Year is always a good time and its very visible in Europe to see significant numbers of Chinese shopping here. Its important to our industry and we are very committed to Chinese nationals both within China and internationally as well. Inside the new Lanvin mens boutique. Ifthereisan effectivecrackdown oncorruption, thegift-giving culturewillbe changedinChina. HE JIAHONG, RENMIN UNIVERSITY Mannequin makeup works better in moderation. Long gone are the curly gold locks of his N Sync days. However, he might have to give the atiron a break and go for a little more of a natural look. The perfectly imperfect oversize bow tie is humorous, but a skinnier model would denitely be cooler. The silk moire tuxedo jacket shows hes trying a bit too hard, but the shawl lapel brings it down a notch.After all, it IS the Grammys. A little too precious perhaps, but were just splitting hairs. Its pretty fabulous. The jacket ts him well; however, men with very narrow frames benet from shorter silhouettes, and Timberlake would look less stuffy with a cropped blazer. The pants t him perfectly, and the cummerbund is subtle but nonetheless present. PHOTOBYSTEVEGRANITZ/WIREIMAGE The black-and-white loafers take the overall look into costume territory. Picture it: Cotton Club, 1920, jazz hands. The only thing missing is the straw bowler. February 14, 2013 ADVERTISEMENT MensWeekMW10 WWD THURSDAY,FEBRUARY14,2013 LanvinMensStore ChinaCrackdownCouldHitMens byCASEYHALL SHANGHAI With incoming President Xi Jinping repeatedly flaggingacrackdownoncorruption and conspicuous consumption as top priorities for his government, China watchers are concerned the resultmaybeahitforamensmar- ket traditionally buoyed by the cul- turalpracticeofgiftgiving. A new frugal working style rule on civil servants also ofcial- ly went into effect last October, banning those paid from the public purse from throwing lavish banquets, buying expensive cars and accepting luxurious gifts. Giftgivingandbriberyareboth favoredgiftforpolitically,economi- callyandsociallyandsometimes all three powerful men in China and,inrecentyears,Beijingsregu- lar Party Congresses have become a parade of straight-faced suits sportingRolex,Omega,Cartierand PatekPhilippetimepieces. The rst watches were brought to China by French missionaries in the17thcenturyandwereoriginal- ly a gift to emperors and so on. So theloveaffairbetweenwatchesand Chinaandtherelationshipbetween men in China and the culture of gifting have developed in tandem, David Sadigh, chief executive ofcer of Digital Luxury Group, told WWD. The group recently released will be watches and jewelry, other things from wine and spirits, yachts, cars, private jets willcontinuetogrowatasta- blerate,Lusaid. Brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta have already invested heavily intherisingpersonalconsump- tion of Chinese men on the lookout for stylish substance over excess bling by expanding theirproductrangesandsetting up specialty gents stores in the GreaterChinaregion. I can say that for Ferragamo, the mens catego- ries [in China] are signicantly important,saidMicheleNorsa, InsidethenewLanvin mensboutique.

9. Fashion Week Report K A R E N C H I A N G

10. Short tuxedo suit, a feathered chubby jacket and leopard prints that harkened back to the famous discos banquettes The accessories picked up on the playful motifs via enamel charms on necklaces and pins and a black satin sandal with a tuxedo collar at the ankle Even a pair of sunglasses formed an open pair of lips in homage to the disco era It was all about the eighties atKate Spade New York's Fall 2013 presentation. It looked like a set forSex and the CityrebootThe Carrie Diaries, which takes place in 1984 Taxi-inspired heels, sparkly lip sunglasses, and a sweatshirt featuring a sprinkle donuthot pink ruled, and old-school taxicabs served as props Kate Spade New York is fashion with a quirk and spun it into a full-blown world of glamour with a sense of humor Kate Spades 80s inspiration shown through the use of bright color and patterns Clever use of accessories, with simple suit outts, collar ankle shoes, lips sunglasses, and bright yellow taxi clutch grabs the attention Bold use of colors, even with solid colors Kate Spade is still able to make the distinctive contrast. Kate Spade still has ways to make the outt stands out Friday, February 8, 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G

11. Friday, February 8, 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G There were party frocks in pop colors, easy day pieces like ripped denim and quilted leather Some fun rounded-shoulder tops that winked at the space suits she had in mind when designing this collection Her girl is a rock n roll tomboy at heart bomber jacket-track pant combo in leather and burnout plaid Layers of silky plaid, distressed denim, and quilted leather created a sexy tomboy vibe particularly when paired with some of the holographic pointy heels and handbags The clear standout, however, was outerwear The nale look, a persimmon-colored sheath with sculpted shoulders worn by Ruby Aldridge, also earned high marks and seemed like a directional step forward Feminine tomboy looks, subtle reference of her space inspiration blended with a futuristic look Minko used a lot of leather;, great use of dierent fabrics on same piece, such as leather sleeves with knits Strong outerwear that has a lot of character

12. Friday, February 8, 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Miller's imagination has a sartorial range from band jackets to ris on tuxedo dressing Raiding her boyfriends closet can aord a girl a pretty good wardrobe if she pilfers selectively and adds her own sexy touches Commercial against cool quite well assortment of knits and pretty orals, which added a touch of softness to the mostly mannish fare A leather-trimmed tuxedo jacket and motorcycle jacket with a front panel of ponyskin were both sharply done V-neck black cocktail dress of layered georgette was a at-out winner Miller made ne use of the same print in a soft silk gown with trench coat lapels terric lean suit of patchwork denim and black jacquard Miller incorporated many suit jackets in her Fall collection, giving it a more masculine look Beautiful patterns that are made into a trench coat as well as a well tailored dress City girl with a tom boy look added with twist of sass

13. Monday, February 11 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Clothes radiated Karans sexy, body-centric allure that has become increasingly artful over the years Time and again she draped, twisted and slashed her beloved jerseys to perfection in fabulous dresses Donna also spliced wool and sheer jerseys into gowns, sometimes adding a high-drama cape or shearling cowl Capes are trending big-time, and Donna did all kinds: asymmetrical and sweeping in jersey, built into a jacket in double-face neoprene, to the oor for evening Opaque hosiery was another Karan innovation that we take for granted. Wrap skirts that ashed a hint of thigh were a reminder that she did them rst The designer's trick here was to tap into her DNA without feeling retro. The draping of the fabric were phenomenal, as well as asymmetrical cuts. Models hair were all pulled back, giving our full attention to the clothes Striking round shoulder jackets gave the whole look a more tough look

14. Monday, February 11 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Polished side of the retro genre with simple, covered-up dresses and tailored separates that highlighted the responsible sideShes grown- up and gotten a job Ruddy color palette shown here in shades of orange, red and blue as well as some graphic, colorfully clashing prints Jacobs men was an element of Jacobs grunge in a plaid car coat and rumpled sweater, countered by some shots of fancy, like a vivid red overcoat and crocodile embossed belts Marc by Marc Jacobs was always Marc's vehicle for a kind of low-key collegiate funk, and on that level, it's usually been a sterling success A bit more wattage in the hair and makeup, a bit more sex in the clothes If the prints, proportions, and satiny sheen echoed Roxy Music fans refracting the forties through a seventies glam lens, that too felt just about right The big blowout hair on models resembled the 70s retro era Jacobs uses darker palette this season, for example dark red, brown, deep green, and blue A lot of high waist skirt that are paired with collared shirts, resembles professionalism

15. Monday, February 11 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Hints of a forties heroine in mind, Carolina Herrera designed a collection about glamour and gumption Dresses and gowns with high keyhole necklines had dened shoulders and teeny belted waists that highlighted the graceful movement of the uid crepe skirts Developing her own prints is a source of great pleasure and pride for Herrera. This time they were based on owers, specically dahlias and urchins Herrera's collections don't often dovetail with the reigning trends of the season but they're fully realized enough to create their own realities Victory-roll coif and her wasp-waisted dresses and full skirts, she was a kind of vixenish moll Even with a heavy rain shower, she lled the Lincoln Center theater venue required the full symphonic talents of the London Contemporary Orchestra Herreras gowns owed beautifully, almost lively looking. Middle parted, sleek pulled back with two twists on each side coordinated with her 40s theme The oral patterns were such a big statement in Herreras Fall 2013 collection

16. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Provided a lovely study on luxurious fabrics, volume and silhouettes, referencing several couture concepts Main silhouette was the egg shapelayered constructions of multiple piecesfeaturing deep armholes with low, inset pockets Couture touches were also demonstrated via Japanese inuences, namely intricate origami cuts and a gathered kimono dress with a focus on volume in the back Calling her collection an exploration of classic dressmaking in sculptural silhouettes Wang can't resist a bit of fur, and her black fox cape, fastened at the neckline with a studded leather strap over a jeweled T-shirt dress, had charm Photos don't do justice to the iridescence of a youthful pink sequined and beaded V-neck dress Multiple looks from the collection emphasized on the egg shape on the waist Patterns were beautiful. Especially the yellow on purple The mix of dierent pattern silhouettes gave black a fun exciting look

17. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Burch took her moody colors from Klimts work and focused on the blending of textures and patterns Find a full wardrobes wealth of clothes, from sexy sheaths to dresses with waisted bodices Pretty, interesting and wearable, three characteristics that added up to one very smart collection Gustav Klimt painted some of the most rapturous works inspiredthat was suused with a gilded sense of romance Jewelry, accessories, and eyewear are rapidly becoming cornerstones of her empire, and the ornateness of her inspirations gave her ample excuse to pile them on Art Nouveau orals, scarab prints, and dragony motifs stoked that fairy-tale ame Burch played with color, patterns, and textures Accessories were a breath of fresh air. From beetle necklace, wing shape sunglasses to shoes in resemblance of bugs. There were no boring outts, each look has something interesting added to it

18. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G While the collection was outerwear-heavy, there were some lady-killer dresses in splash-art prints and versions in leather and wool combos Designer continued on that same aesthetic, but sprinkled military references throughout Demonstrated that Tahari has a recharged engine as he looks to build on his creative and commercial power base Set out to evoke "a Siberian winter covering an urban landscape" with his Fall presentation, which featured architectural fabric installations by Gisela Stromeyer that gave the impression of sweeping glaciers and arctic tundra The set enhanced the collection, which brimmed with impressive outerwear Detectable military inuence in menswear items like double-breasted peacoat and leather cargo jackets, which were paired with slim, tailored trousers Great outerwear collection, especially the neckline on the women coats. The funnel neck shape and adds volume. Taharis menswear looks are sophisticated and well polished. The collection is a military with a twist of futuristic look

19. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Gilles Mendel worked luxe furs, trapunto- stitched leathers and liquid satin and velvet panne gowns into his fall lineup Citing German artist Gerhard Richter as an inspiration, Mendel worked in an earthy palette of burgundy, copper and moss with pops of red and royal blue The cozy mink intarsia pullovers and black grooved mink coat, shown belted and over a blouse with a high white ermine collar, looked best There's no point going to aJ. Mendelshow if you're queasy about fur He really outdid himself with his laser-cut minks, in particular the trim black coat sliced in a pattern so subtle, it had to be touched to be believed There was a recurring biker theme here, which Mendel cannily translated for his super- upscale clientele Mendel known for his fur creation, he did not disappoint this year. Beautifully made fur coats, you can already know what it feels like just by looking Even when it is not a fur piece, Mendel still nds ways to incorporate fur. For example, accessories and fur cus that goes with gowns Mendel also created gorgeous drape gowns in the Fall collection

20. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG She loved the graphic aesthetic of Godards lms particularly his set designs, the use of red and blue, black and white and even his fonts Over the top as this Sui collection was, it was colorful and playful, with some fun pieces that are sure to please Faux fur jackets and coats added volume and texture to some of the Sixties-esque striped and printed frocks Sui is probably contemporary fashion's most lovable archaeologist, but simple historicism can turn on a dime into a leaden nostalgia-fest Mash a pell-mell overload of colors, textures, patterns, and accessories into a coherent whole Skirt, waistcoat, and jacket that were actually a trompe l'oeil one-piece that zipped up the back, just like in the olden days when the all-in-one was a cost- eective fashion solution for cash-strapped go-girls Vibrant, primary colors were used a lot in her collection. Big contrast of colors. Patterns and textures were also a big theme. As we can see the patterns on model matches the socks. Sui portrayed quirky, fun, and youthfulness through this collection

21. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG Merger of rampant athleticism and luxury coats on Kors fall runway He binged on the sporty and the polished with blaring colors, cobalt blue and taxicab yellow shown against slick black in exaggerated proportions that varied between performance and ladylike Kors toughened up his mens wear with camo prints and black leather Many of the tailored pieces seemed built for speed with rounded shoulders and aerodynamic double-face construction Goggles added to that feeling Plenty of urban warriors at the show would kill for his charcoal gray wool melton overcoat and the pantsuit shown underneath it Kors' big idea for after dark, a tted minidress with a peplum overskirt that extended all the way to the oor in back The goggles added more futuristic, matrix look Kors mostly used yellow, blue, and black. Blue and Yellow pops up a lot in contrast to black Camouage added more of a masculine look. It is also a smart idea to use it on fur coats.

22. Thursday, February 14 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG Though most were black or navy, Lauren lightened the lineup with a roomy ivory toppe Lauren broke up the mannish inuence with lovely uid dresses in deep-toned velvets wine, blue, purple Cases in point: a divine beaded jersey with plunging neckline and a midnight column with jeweled yoke that channeled one of Laurens favorite ladies, Audrey Hepburn Lauren took us on a romantic voyage with naval-inspired pieces, vaguely Russian-feeling velvets and tapestry embroideries, and dramatic eveningwear Extending the sailor theme into evening, a tted sherman sweater and to-the-oor tiered black skirt in taeta and organzaa modern mix of day and night Closed with a group of jewel-tone shirred taeta gowns made all the more grand by the fur hats the models wore Hint of Russian inuence when fur hats were worn with the gowns in the end There were also sailor inuences; subtle bows around the neck, marine symbol on a long dress Many high waist trousers; beautifully tailored pieces

23. Thursday, February 14 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG Roy took ornate details from 17th- and 18th-century art and applied them to the clothes in a variety of ways Some of it looked rich, but at times Roy could have used a little restraint White knit sweater shown with a chic paisley like jacquard pencil skirt, and a chevron and embroidered bomber jacket were her best Digital runway show rather than a formal presentation A chambord-colored bomber jacket with spiky beads at the shoulders and metallic jacquard panels, which was paired with a brocade velour pencil skirt, illustrated the mix of materials here There were a few eclectic ensembles that felt a bit too busy, but those could usually be broken down into their individual pieces, which were very wearable for the most part The patterns damask design somewhat reected a French royalty look Roy uses statement belts in her darker color pieces Each piece is very wearable in a daily life

24. Thursday, February 14 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG Perhaps the most overtly glamorous collection Jacobs has ever done First allowing the audience to see everything only in blacks, grays and an otherworldly sepiaThe light then changed to something resembling normal, revealing a gorgeous palette of neutrals and soft colors Jacobs opted for traditional materials of the most luxe sort: double-faced cashmeres and alpacas; rened silks ample fur beaver, fox, mink Cable-knit sweaters, tailored blazers and vests, silk pajamas, fox chubbies, scads of high- waisted briefsall familiar from Jacobs' oeuvre In a New York season strong on real-life clothes, the straightforwardness of that approach resonated There were terric coats here for days, as well as neat little oce-bound sweater and pencil skirt sets. For after-dark, Jacobs layered on those sequins Jacobs did not shy away from furs this season. Pairing it with sequence dresses, and as a coat Jacobs also used softer colors blues, deep green, and burgandy The fur scarfs were unique, they looked like real animal wrapped around the models

25. Five Trends (Fall 2013) K A R E N C H I A N G

26. Metallic Shine

27. Asymmetrical

28. Modern Military

29. Leather

30. Camel Color

31. Three Top Shows K A R E N C H I A N G

32. Burchs Fall 2013 collection showed inspiration from the 20s, 30s, 40s , not only was it shown in clothes, but also see a strong inuence on the accessories. Clutches, shoulder bags, and sunglasses all reected the vintage look The collection did not shy away from bold use of prints. From Art Nouveau orals, scarab prints, to dragony motifs Great thing about Burchs collection is that it is both wearable for professional occasions and evening events. The styles are chic and attering to almost all body types Karan want back to her own rst success The Seven Sensations of the mid-eighties Black stretch jersey with sheer inset at the waist, topped by a matching stretch wrap hugs the body beautifully. Also, the asymmetrical drape from one should to another and the way it ows as model walks was stunning Karan focused on black and brown mostly throughout the collection. Which gave it an easier transition from day to night Herreras models were awlessly groomed, with their hair twisted into 1940s chignon rolls. It adds on a more cinematic quality to the whole collection Big oral patterns are key in Herreras Fall 2013 collection. Dahlias and urchins prints on graceful movement gowns After seeing so much fur on models, it is refreshing to see how Herrera use fur in her collection. I nd it very interesting how she added fur on the sides of the pocket

33. Press Release K A R E N C H I A N G

34. ForImmediateRelease FortiesGlamourThrowbackWith NEWYORK,NYCarolinaHerreradebutsherFall2013collection,focusingon40sglamour onMonday,February11attheTheatreinLincolnCenterat10a.m. FortheFall2013collectionfashionshow,Herrerawillcreateanelegantworldcombining fashionandthesymphonictalentsoftheLondonContemporaryOrchestra. WithoutanyfussovermusicplaylistsorbookingaDJfortheshow,Herrerahiresanexpensive BritishmusicdirectorTomHodgetocomposeaoneandonlypieceforhershowtheCapriccio forCarolina.TheLondonContemporaryOrchestraperformedthemasterpieceandisrecordedat theAbbeyRoadStudios.ThestudioisnotableforhavingTheBeatlesrecordthere,whereAbbey Roadalbumisnamedafterthestreetwherethestudioislocated. Modelwillstrolldowntherunwaywithimpeccablygroomedhairwithchignonbraidsonthe sideportrayingthehairstyleinthe40s.Rosecolorlipsticksandlightmakeupallowstheclothes todoshowitsgracefulness. Therewillbearichamountofdramaandemotionastheshowprogress.Graphically,large abstracteddahliasandurchinsprints,keyholebusts,andteacupsleevesallreferencestothe40s spiritaretobeexpectedforthecollection.Furwillalsoplayamajorroleinthiscollectionand willcomeindifferentformsandcolors. Herreraknowntopquality,classy,beautifulgownsanddresseswillnotdisappointandwillstrike againduringthisyearsFall2013collection. PressContact:KarenChiang PublicRelationsDirector 408.821.2115 [email protected] @karenchiang

35. WWD Editors List K A R E N C H I A N G

36. WWDEditorsList MondayTuesdayWednesdayThursdayFriday AlessandraTurraTextiles Alexandra Steigrad AccessoriesAccessories Business/Legal News ArnoldJ.KarrFinance ArthurFreidmanTextiles BelisaSilvaBeauty CaseyHall China Menswear Market DavidLipkeMen'sFashion DavidMoinE-CommerceRetailRetail EvanClarkBusinessRetailFinanceBusiness JeanE.PalmieriSportswear Celebrity Menswear Menswear Business JenniferWeil European Beauty European Beauty JoelleDiderichFinance LuxuryBrand Accessories JulieNaughtonBeautyBeauty KarynMonget Innerwear/ Bodywear KathleenE. McLaughlin International Business KristiEllisGovernmentGovernment LaureGuilbault European Fashion Business LisaLockwood Fashion Business FashionWeek LuisaZargani MilanFashion News MilanFashion News MatthewLynchEyeReporter MilesSocha European Fashion Business ParisFashion Week European Fashion Business MollyPriorBeautyFinance RachelBrown WestCoast Retail WestCoast Retail Rosemary Feitelberg Weatherand Retail SamanthaContiLondonLuxury LondonLuxury Brand SharonEdelsonSpecialtyRetailSpecialtyRetail TaylorHarrisEyeReporter VickiM.YoungFinance

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