WWDLONDON — Fashion’s new boy wonder, Jonathan Anderson, ignited fashion week here on Saturday with a daring and ethereal spring collection for his J.W. Anderson label. It ranged from barely there tops in organza to ensembles in leather embossed into chevrons or puckers. Here, his gauzy top and skirt, cinched into blousy tiers. For more on London, see pages 4 to 7.

PuffPiece

AFTER HBC TAKEOVER

Sadove and FraschSeen Exiting Saks

SEE PAGE 11

Get Me to Mayfair:Area’s Retail Boom

SEE PAGE 6

By SAMANTHA CONTI

LONDON’S CATWALKS may be ablaze with talent, but this season, much of the action has been taking place off the runways and on the streets of Mayfair, Knightsbridge, and Covent Garden, where British and international labels are racing to secure prime space in a property market that is rapidly heating up.

The latest to join the fray is Christopher Kane, who will today reveal that he’s chosen Mount Street in Mayfair as the site of his first flagship, which will open by the end of next year. The designer, whose label is now majority-owned by Kering, joins a ros-ter of big names who have planted new retail flags in central London. Paul Smith, Tom Ford, Pringle of Scotland, Belstaff and Longchamp are among the labels that are celebrating store openings this week, while Solange Azagury-Partridge, Amanda Wakeley, Victoria Beckham, Jimmy Choo, Dior, Chanel, Céline, Isabel Marant and Roksanda Ilincic are among the brands looking for — or recently securing — space in a golden retail arc that begins in Covent Garden, stretches to Mayfair and then over to Knightsbridge.

Those three neighborhoods — Mayfair in par-ticular — have trampled once-hot retail zones such as Westbourne Grove, Sloane Square and the King’s Road, thanks chiefly to wealthy foreign tourists who regularly flood central London and to affluent inter-national residents, many of whom spend only a few months of the year in their Belgravia townhouses or Knightsbridge penthouses.

“The whole world comes to Mayfair,” said Solange Azagury-Partridge, who earlier this month moved into

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2013 $3.00 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI

‘LOVE’ THIS

NET-A-PORTER LAUNCHES A SOCIAL NETWORK. PAGE 2

OPTIMISM REIGNSBUYERS PRAISED THE UPBEAT MOOD ON THE NEW YORK RUNWAYS — AND HOPE IT SPILLS

OVER TO CONSUMERS. PAGES 8 AND 9

LONDONSPRING 2014

COLLECTIONS

By DAVID MOIN

NEW YORK — There are big changes ahead at Saks, Inc., starting at the top.

Stephen I. Sadove, Saks’ chairman and chief exec-utive officer, and Ronald Frasch, president and chief merchandising officer, are both leaving the business in the wake of the Hudson Bay Co.’s $2.9 billion take-over, according to sources. An announcement is ex-pected imminently, possibly today.

While Sadove has been expected to vacate Saks due to the deal, Frasch’s departure is more of a sur-prise, increasing the pressure on HBC to fill the im-pending management void at Saks.

Other top executives at Saks also could take the golden parachute deals that will take effect once HBC finalizes its acquisition.

Sadove’s golden parachute is worth close to $22.9 million and Frasch’s, $9.7 million. These figures do not include all of the executives’ Saks holdings, however.

Saks officials declined comment Sunday on any management departures.

HBC is considering not filling Sadove’s position once the acquisition is completed, but is expected to fill Frasch’s role. Richard Baker is chairman and ceo of the parent HBC and could fold Saks under his man-agement umbrella. Names mentioned as possible suc-cessors to Frasch include Bonnie Brooks, currently president at HBC, operator of the Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor stores, although she is not expected to shift to Saks, sources said, and has been taking a more behind-the-scenes role. Other candidates could include Marigay McKee, chief merchant at Harrods; Ginny Hershey-Lambert, former executive vice presi-dent of merchandising at Bergdorf Goodman, who left the retailer last year, and some of the top merchants at Lord & Taylor. Liz Rodbell is HBC’s top merchant, currently reporting to Brooks. Lord & Taylor recently

WWD.COM2

By JULIA NEEL

LONDON — Net-a-porter Group has created a new mobile app to create a social network of users shar-ing their favorite products from the luxury e-tailer.

“Late last year, Natalie [Massenet] set us a chal-lenge to create an app that would bring together the Net-a-porter Live, the feed that shows what shoppers are buying in real time, the products and create a community of customers,” explained Sarah Watson, the retailer’s group mobile manager. “We had done some research that showed that our cus-tomer likes to be inspired by other people, whether it’s their friends or celebrities.”

Watson said that the app, called The Netbook, is based on the idea of a diary. “It’s a metaphor for the physical diaries that we carry with us, to meet-ings and in our lives,” she told WWD. “It’s a little bit old school, in the same way that Instagram has a retro camera [as its icon], and that has inspired the design of the app.”

The Netbook will be available to download from the iTunes App Store from today and will be ini-tially available only for iPhone and iPad devices. There are plans to extend the service to other platforms in the future. To begin with, access to the app will be by invitation only. Net-a-porter’s editors, buyers and public relations teams will be armed with individually numbered invitation cards, which they will pass out to members of the fash-ion pack during London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks. The app will be made freely available in due course.

Watson said that the decision to personally in-vite people to the network was to build a commu-nity that fashion-minded people would want to join. “We’re building a social network from scratch; we have to get it right. It has to be a good experience and feel like luxury,” she explained. “The team will invite editors, stylists, bloggers, models, street-style stars, brands and VIPs that they meet at shows or at parties, which will make sure that the most influen-tial people in fashion are involved from the start.”

There was a practical element to the decision to keep access exclusive initially too. “We need to make sure that it can be supported and not crash if too many people use it. As the scale grows, we

will eventually be able to send Evites and users will be able to invite their friends on other social networks.” Users who download the app without an access code will automatically be added to the wait list and be invited on a first-come, first-served basis.

In the same way that Facebook has “friends” and Twitter has “followers,” users of the image-based shoppable app will be able to “admire” their friends and other users. They will be able to build a profile, search for thousands of items on Net-a-porter and build a “Love List” that other users can “admire” by tapping on an image in the live feed of luxury fashion items trending across the world.

Stella McCartney has sponsored the app, and the brand created a bespoke version of its current cam-paign to meet the app’s specifications.

“Net-a-porter already has a shopping app, which is great for goal-driven purchases,” said Watson. “This is more geared towards browsing, engag-ing and discovering product. By seeing what your friends are ‘loving,’ you may turn up something that you might never have found otherwise.

“With other digital launches we can usually breath a sigh of relief and move on, but we have just so many plans and updates for The Netbook,” she said. “This is just the beginning.”

WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2013

To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is firsTname_lasTname@fairchildfashion.com, using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 206, NO. 56. MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at condenast@theygsgroup.com, or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

on WWD.CoM

the Briefing Boxin Today’s WWd

Saks Inc.’s Stephen I. Sadove and Ronald Frasch are both leaving the business soon, in the wake of the Hudson Bay Co. takeover, according to sources. Page 1 Much of the action in London this season has been taking place off the runways and on the streets of Mayfair, Knightsbridge, and Covent Garden. Page 1 Kent & Curwen has tapped Simon Spurr as creative director and senior vice president. Page 2 Net-a-porter Group has created a new mobile app to create a social network of users sharing their favorite products from the luxury e-tailer. Page 2 Belstaff confirmed that David Beckham will front its spring campaign at an event that shut down London’s New Bond Street on Sunday. Page 7 C. Wonder on Friday opened a 3,000-square-foot boutique at 285 King Street in Charleston, S.C. Page 7 New York Fashion Week blew through town with easy, effortless and colorful collections, a welcome development for retailers. Page 8 Calvin Klein toasted Francisco Costa’s 10th anniversary with the house and its new fragrance on Thursday at Spring Studios in New York’s TriBeCa neighborhood. Page 10 Estée Lauder collected an eclectic group of Hollywood and fashion names at the Guggenheim Museum Thursday night, to promote the Modern Muse fragrance. Page 10 Karstadt’s Andrew Jennings took part in LIM College’s CEO Speaker Series on Sept. 9. Page 12 Gryphon, the contemporary label Aimee Cho and Andrew Rosen founded in 2006, is shuttering. Page 12 Roberto Cavalli on Monday will unveil his autobiography, called “Just Me!” Page 12

Nancy Pelosi at the San Francisco Opera. For more, see WWD.com.

EYE: Patrons on the San Francisco’s gala circuit had plenty to celebrate this month, including the San Francisco Opera and Symphony openings. For more, see WWD.com.

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Simon Spurr Takes Creative Lead at Kent & Curwen

By DAVID LIPKE

KENT & CURWEN, the British heritage brand res-urrected in the U.S. and Europe by a subsidiary of Star Branding LLC, has tapped Simon Spurr as cre-ative director and senior vice president. Effective immediately, the designer will oversee product de-sign as well as work on store development, market-ing and other creative aspects of the brand.

Spurr succeeds Michael Sondag, who exited the New York-based company earlier this month in order to move back to Europe. This newest in-carnation of Kent & Curwen, which has a history dating to 1926, ramped up last year, with the first prod-uct hitting stores this fall. Key wholesale partners are Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom and Harrods, in addition to a number of independent specialty stores.

“I think there’s a great platform that’s been built. I want to honor the heritage of the brand but also, by de-fault, make it slightly more modern,” said Spurr, who was at the Milano Unica fab-ric fair last week already preparing the fall 2014 collection. “I think it’ll be an extension of what’s been established. It won’t be a major shift, but we can modernize it while respecting the heritage.”

Spurr was most recently men’s creative con-sultant at Tommy Hilfiger, working on the runway collections for five seasons, a position he exited at the beginning of this year. Hilfiger, who is an owner of Star Branding, recommended Spurr to Craig Reynolds, president of British Heritage Brands LLC, the New York-based entity set up to operate the Kent & Curwen business.

“We call ourselves ‘heritage with the dust blown off,’ and Simon seemed to be such a perfect fit,” said Reynolds.

Spurr, who was born in Kent, England, previ-ously helmed his own label from 2006 to 2012, gar-nering acclaim in the men’s market for his English-inflected tailoring and upscale sportswear. That venture broke apart when Spurr quit the brand last year due to differences with financial partner Judd Nydes. The rift was a shock in that Spurr had just been nominated for the CFDA’s Menswear Designer of the Year prize.

Globally, the Kent & Curwen brand is strongest in Asia, where it is owned by Hong Kong-based Trinity Ltd., a publicly traded men’s retail group that also owns Cerruti 1881 and Gieves & Hawkes. Trinity operates more than 100 Kent & Curwen

stores in Asia, 30 of which are converting their mer-chandise assortments this season to newer British Heritage Brands designs.

Trinity has licensed Kent & Curwen to British Heritage Brands for the U.S. and European markets. British Heritage Brands is a unit of Star Branding, a brand management com-pany owned by Hilfiger, his brother Andy Hilfiger and Joe Lamastra, among others.

LF USA handles back-office functions for Kent & Curwen, including information technology and pay-roll operations. China’s Fung family has substantial stakes in both LF USA’s parent company, Li & Fung Ltd., and Trinity Ltd.

Kent & Curwen will open a 1,500-square-foot store at 2 Savile Row next month. In the spring, a 2,100-square-foot New York flagship will open at 816 Madison Avenue. It was designed by the late David Collins and was the last project overseen by the interior decorator before his death in July, said Reynolds.

A previous Kent & Curwen store that Trinity operated in London’s Piccadilly Arcade closed in June, as part of the new license agreement.

Simon Spurr Joins Kent & Curwen

Net-a-porter Launches Social Network

’’

’’

Iwant to honor the heritage of the brand but also, by default, make it slightly more modern.

— Simon Spurr

Net-a-porter has launched The Netbook app.

image in PAGE TWO folder to be scanned - from SF opera:

Nancy Pelosi

Photo by Drew Altizer

w16a002a.indd 2 9/15/13 5:51 PM09152013175314

Paul Smith: “Just relax” seemed to be the message at Paul Smith’s spring show. The key looks — there were two of them — were based on men’s tailoring cut with plenty of breathing room.

Smith repeated a breezy Bianca Jagger suit in a multitude of colors — cornflower blue, black, white and buttercup yellow. Then he broke up the suit, showing a similar, if not identical, pants silhouette with button-down shirts, some done in a sunny print or with blown-up herringbone embroidery for a whiff of novelty.

The borrowed-from-the-boys attitude continued with cuffed and cropped extra-large pants worn with large, loose shirts, and riffs on the shirtdress, ranging from a mini to billowing bohemian maxis.

J.W. Anderson: What with his Versus collaboration last spring and reported interest from luxury giant LVMH, Jonathan Anderson has seen his fashion profile skyrocket. His spring collection delivered on his reputation as London’s new-ideas man. Anderson delved deeper into the conceptual minimalism he’s been developing for the past few seasons, here with a pronounced influence from the Comme des Garçons family.

He started with the relatively feminine: sheer baby-doll tops and long skirts — one white, one black — that were banded to create soft tiers of blouson pleating. From there, Anderson built “textural landscapes” that teased the eye.

“Is it leather, is it silk, is it organza? ” he asked backstage. In fact, all of those fabrics made appearances, as well as

nylon and pleather. They were sculpted into 3-D chevron pleats and puckers on stiff tops and wrap skirts that were short in back, long in front. The more engineered fabrics had a DIY finish to them. (After all, Anderson doesn’t have luxury conglomerate support yet.)

There were great moments of strange beauty, often quite wearable, too. A seersucker column gown with an exaggerated obi belt was striking, and printed sequin skirts were pretty. Everything was worn with leather shower sandals — the sensible shoe of the season.

Mulberry: In her final collection for the brand, creative director Emma Hill was faithful to her favorite English themes. Among this season’s inspirations were stately homes and their gardens, and the cartoons from the “Mr. Men” series of children’s books.

That translated into a feminine — but restrained — collection that featured heaps of bright flowers, as in splashy prints on silk dresses and trousers; embroideries around collars, and sequins and sparkles spilling down the seams of trapeze dresses. Flowers also wove their way onto silk jacquard coats and clutch bags.

Leather played a big role, too, in the form of dark coats with ponyskin panels and skirts and tops with chunky, horizontal suede stripes.

L’Wren Scott: A merger of two very distinct aesthetics, the collection fused 16th-century Japanese robes with L’Wren Scott’s own exacting style of dress. Titled

“Tagasode,” meaning “Whose Sleeves?” in Japanese, the collection’s origin was a Momoyama-period screen decorated with kimonos, which was considered a sort of makeshift fashion show for the women of the time, Scott explained during a preview.

Choosing such a culturally specific style offers the opportunity for inventive updates on traditional motifs — Japanese florals, structured silhouettes, in this case — and the risk of too-literal interpretations, such as costumes. For the most part, Scott stayed in the former camp, working the kimono effects with relative subtlety on clean, crisp day looks before developing them into grand gestures.

There was an obvious focus on sleeves. They came slashed open on a white dress with elaborate wisteria embroidery and on tidy tailored jackets. The simpler the silhouette, the better it fused with the Eastern details. So the pretty obi belts and colorful thread work on Scott’s signature strict dresses and some more relaxed styles felt the most modern.

The show ended with theatrical drama, including a fetish-y black-and-red boudoir motif, and a lean white gown elaborately embroidered with floor-sweeping sleeves. An example of impeccable workmanship, it was also nearly impossible to imagine off the runway. Then there was a fetish of a different sort: the shoes done with Brian Atwood. The lacquered sculpted platforms that wrapped up the ankles put the models at Scott’s flat-footed height of 6 feet, 3 inches.

“I wanted all the models to be taller than me,” she said.

Jonathan Saunders: Jonathan Saunders developed the trippy sport aesthetic he introduced for resort into a compelling vision for spring. Anchored in psychedelic colors and Seventies athletic gear, one might call the look slacker chic — a combination of craftiness, relaxed streetwear cool and offbeat beach babes. Saunders softened the bold acid palette of resort into warmer tones of burgundy, light brown, aqua blue, blush and orange, which brought to mind tacky retro interiors yet did not feel cheap. He chose expensive-looking fabrics — silky satin and organza — decorating with impressive floral embroideries and appliqués. Classic rockabilly shirts were recast in sheer organza with satin collars and colorful thread work. The early Eighties tracksuit was reimagined as streamlined satin jackets and languid shorts that snapped up the sides and rode low on the hips. Large-scale Hawaiian prints and rainbow dégradés appeared throughout.

Mary Katrantzou: Saks Fifth Avenue gave its giant shoe department its own Manhattan zip code. Now Mary Katrantzou exalted footwear with a collection using men’s brogues, sneakers and elaborate evening pumps as the jumping-off point.

Photo prints of the brogues were blown up to woman size or bigger and applied to relatively simple shapes: roomy jackets, jaunty shorts and bubble-shaped bustier dresses.

For the sneaker portion, Katrantzou pushed her techniques to the limit. Scuba dresses and racer-style jackets

4 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2013

London Co LEAN — OR RELAXED — SILHOUETTES, SEVENTIES TOUCHES AND A PERFUME

Paul Smith J.W. Anderson Mulberry L’Wren Scott

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carried dense layers of photo-realistic prints on Neoprene and mesh — up to 28 panels per dress. Then she added 3-D effects — occasionally printed, occasionally real — including strips of bonded rubber and Velcro straps.

The evening portion was the most convincing, in which Katrantzou interpreted mules Marie Antoinette might have worn into tiny, teacup-shaped dresses carrying heavy crystal embroideries, and ruffles printed with ruffles. Still, finding women bold enough to carry off these densely decorated clothes is something of a Cinderella question.

Matthew Williamson: Matthew Williamson did away with his digitally inspired prints this season, and opted instead for botanical motifs, hand-drawn daisies and dragonflies over loose, languid silhouettes. “I wanted the prints to look like a five-year-old girl had done them,” the designer said. “It’s a less precise take on pattern and print — abstract with no sharp edges.”

Big, cartoonish flowers blossomed over floor-sweeping tunics and sheer blouses, while dragonflies of various shapes and sizes appeared on belted silk dresses. Skirts and cropped jackets, some in shades of pink and purple with a dip-dyed effect, were abloom with appliquéd daisies and sparkles, while mint green firefly brooches alighted on one long white dress.

Topshop Unique: Eastern influences came through on the Topshop Unique catwalk, including intricate Turkish tile motifs in printed silks and as shiny embellishments on the closing looks. Shoulder and back-baring sundresses were the star attraction, in transparent voiles and ultralight silks. They came in mini versions, with delicate spaghetti

straps, or in longer proportions made from bonded silk, some of which had drawstring openings, exposing the models’ flanks.

Among the palette of sunshine yellow, navy, gray and white, more ethnic nods were seen in the tasseled trim on a roomy white shirtdress, or fringing on a rough silk poncho top. Raw edges appeared throughout, adding a homespun charm to a distressed jacquard shorts suit in royal blue.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label: Lily Cole introduced Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label show with a melancholy dance inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s grisly fairy tale “The Red Shoes.”

Westwood opened with a sharp double-breasted suit in a windowpane check, and segued into her signature draped tailoring, which was especially strong in a plunging black jumpsuit with a notched tuxedo collar. A rose-garden print bloomed on a silk jumpsuit, a leather jacket and a draped dress, also mingling with sequins in a gown cinched at the waist with a double-buckle belt.

Julien Macdonald: The collection was packed with enough sheer, sparkling dresses to outfit a mermaids’ ball. Macdonald went overboard with sparkles, glittering appliqué, and beading on delicate, sweeping gowns crafted from sheer tulle or his signature spider-web knits.

One number had a plunging back adorned with what looked like bits of glittering seaweed, while another looked as if it was covered in a jumble of gold and silver matchsticks. A gown with a V-neck that plunged to the navel was covered in tiny ornaments resembling shards of broken mirror. Macdonald’s lady — whether she’s on dry land or sailing the high seas — won’t go unnoticed.

5WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2013

LONDONSPRING 2014

COLLECTIONS

llections OF JAPAN WERE ALL PART OF A LIVELY FASHION WEEKEND.

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE

WWD.com/runway.

Jonathan Saunders Mary Katrantzou Matthew Williamson

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Topshop Unique Julien Macdonald

a 5,000-square-foot townhouse at 5 Carlos Place, across from the Connaught hotel and off Mount Street. The new space houses the designer’s boutique on the ground and first floors, and a workshop, production facilities and the head office upstairs.

Not long ago, Azagury-Partridge had a shop that was a fixture on Westbourne Grove in Notting Hill, but after moving to Mayfair under her brand’s previous owners Labelux, she knew she could never have a store anywhere else. “Being in Mayfair after being in Notting Hill makes it impossible to return. Notting Hill is lovely, but feels more local and neighborhoody. Mayfair has real international, luxurious glamour,” she said.

Alexandre de Brettes, Christopher Kane’s chief execu-tive officer, said the designer’s Mount Street store will have a worldwide reach. “London is a powerful retail center, so our store will become not only a destination for a global consum-er, but an incredible marketing platform for the brand around the world.” For Kane and his sister Tammy Kane, deputy creative director of the label, there was no question about the location of their first store. “To open in London first was really important to us, as this is where our label was born,” they said.

Although Mayfair has always been popular, its emergence as London’s most in-demand retail neighborhood for fashion and luxury brands has been rapid. Mark Henderson, chairman of Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes and of London Luxury Quarter, an organization that rep-resents and promotes more than 40 luxury streets across Mayfair, Piccadilly and St. James’, said Internet shopping is partly re-sponsible for Mayfair’s boom.

“Internet sales are increas-ing, and multichannel retailing is working exceptionally well. At Gieves, our customers may shop online twice a year, but they’ll also come into the store twice a year — and what they are look-ing for is a full brand experience. Mayfair is uniquely positioned to offer that because of the size and

scale of the stores, the depth of the offering and the sheer con-centration of brands,” he said.

Size and scale are major priorities, especially for the megabrands: In June, Chanel unveiled its new London flag-ship, a 12,600-square-foot space designed by Peter Marino on New Bond Street. Last September, Burberry opened a 44,000-square-foot flagship on Regent Street.

Earlier this month, Belstaff moved into a 26,000-square-foot property at 135-137 New Bond Street, with 3,500 square feet of selling space. In February 2012, when Belstaff took a 20-year lease on the building, it set a record for the highest rent paid for a new, open market let-ting. It will be paying 3 million pounds, or $4.7 million at cur-rent exchange, in annual rent. That equates to 840 pounds, or $1,324, a square foot for the prime ground-floor space. Today, on the other end of the street, deals are being done for up to 1,300 pounds, or just more than $2,049, a square foot.

In early November, J. Crew will open its first European flag-ship, a 17,000-square-foot space with about 11,000 square feet of selling space, on the corner of Regent and New Burlington Streets, while Fendi plans to un-veil its Bond Street flagship — in the sprawling former Mallett art and antiques space — in the first quarter of 2014.

While Bond Street has al-ways been in demand — espe-cially among the big luxury and jewelry brands — its surround-ing streets were mostly sleepy, dotted with independent shops, art and antiques galleries and cafés for local office workers. Not anymore.

“Eight years ago, we followed Stella McCartney’s lead and opened our flagship on Bruton Street, which was mostly lined with galleries and art deal-ers. It was a through road to Berkeley Square,” said Matthew Williamson, whose shop is at 28 Bruton Street. “We knew Bond Street wasn’t right for us, but we also knew we needed to be near the megabrands.”

Today, Bruton Street, which runs perpendicular to Bond, has

become a fashion destination, with shops such as Miu Miu, Diane von Furstenberg, Alice Temperley and perfumer Miller Harris, and it’s one of many Mayfair streets in demand.

One of the most coveted streets in the area is Mount Street, which lay dormant — in the fashion retail sense — until Marc Jacobs planted his flag there in 2007.

Today, Helen Franks, head of retail leasing at Grosvenor, which owns and develops prop-erty across Mayfair, said she

and her team “speak serious-ly” to about 10 brands for each unit that becomes available on Mount Street — home to brands including Jacobs, Goyard, Balenciaga and Lanvin.

Newcomers to Mount Street and to nearby Carlos Place this fall include Pringle, Céline, jeweler Jessica McCormack and eyewear brand Linda Farrow. Pringle previously had a larger store on Lower Sloane Street, near Sloane Square.

Douglas Fang, the brand’s vice chairman, said the team

was immediately attracted to Mount Street. “It is — and remains — vibrant and var-ied in terms of retail formats. Also, thanks to one landlord [Grosvenor] overseeing develop-ment, it allows for a more inter-esting experience,” he said.

Franks acknowledges that she’s working with powerful tailwinds: “London is, and will always be, an international destination, and tourism and foreign visitors are a big driver for the international re-tailers in Mayfair.”

According to Global Blue, which operates the world’s biggest tax-free shopping net-work, in the seven months from January to July, the international shoppers with the highest spend in Mayfair were Americans, who made up 12 percent of total spend, up 12 percent from last year. Shoppers from China represented 10 percent of total spend, up 23 percent year-on-year, followed by those from Saudi Arabia, at 7 percent, up 15 percent compared with last year.

6 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2013

{Continued from page one}

LONDON PREVIEW

Street Action Heats Up

London is, and will always be, an international destination, and tourism and foreign visitors are a big driver for the international retailers in Mayfair.

— HELEN FRANKS, GROSVENOR

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE

WWD.com/retail-news.

Paul Smith in Mayfair.The new Rolex store at Knightsbridge.

Knightsbridge is home to several retail developments.Bond Street in Mayfair.

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EASY RIDERS: David Beckham is to front Belstaff ’s campaign for spring. At the party to celebrate the brand¹s new flagship on London’s New Bond Street, the retired English soccer star arrived to confirm rumors of his latest modeling gig. He shot the campaign with Peter Lindbergh on Saturday on location in the English countryside, and will be the central figure in a group of models.

Beckham, with his love of motorcycling, was a natural choice for the job: He has two bikes in Los Angeles and told of his love of riding at the opening at the Belstaff party.

“What I love about riding is the freedom part,” he said. “When you’re out there, no one knows that it’s you. You have a full-face helmet on, so you enjoy just being alone.”

Beckham said he has been wearing the brand since he came to love bikes. “About five or six years ago, I went into a vintage store,” he said. “It was around the time I started thinking about riding bikes, I was looking for a cool biker jacket. So I went into this vintage store and came across this vintage Belstaff jacket. I bought it and have worn it ever since.”

But he said he’s unlikely to get his wife, Victoria, on a bike anytime soon. “She’s never ridden with me, and I don’t think she will,” he explained. “Obviously with four children, trying to get her on the bike is difficult.”

New Bond Street itself was closed for the event — not seen since Louis Vuitton opened its flagship on the same street in 2010 — to allow for a motorbike parade, in a nod to Belstaff ’s heritage.

Inside the party, bearded and tattooed bikers mingled with the likes of Lord March, whose Goodwood Estate hosts several annual motoring events, as well as Jade Parfitt, Jemma Kidd, Edie Campbell, David Gandy, Tommy Hilfiger and Pixie Lott.

Amber Le Bon said that she’d “practically grown up on the back of a motorbike. When I was little, like seven, I had my own helmet and gloves. When summer would come, Dad [Simon Le Bon] would put us on the back and ride us around the back garden. Mum would shout at him to stop, saying, “Simon, stop it, you’ll ruin the lawn!” — JULIA NEEL

ROLE PLAY: “This show always makes me want to bring my dog, but then I always think he’ll misbehave and embarrass me, so I have second thoughts,” said Douglas Booth following the Mulberry show Sunday, which featured a bulldog in designer gear, as well as canine guests.

Booth, who’s headed to Los Angeles to start promoting “Romeo and Juliet,” joined a crop of other globe-trotting actors, including Léa Seydoux, Rebecca Hall, Brit Marling and Juno Temple in the front row.

Seydoux is at work on “Saint Laurent,” a biopic about the late designer in which she plays his muse-turned-designer Loulou de la Falaise. She read some books about Saint Laurent, but said research wasn’t too difficult. “I know about this life — he is part of our patrimony in France,” she said. After the show, the actress planned to return to France to promote her latest film, “Blue Is the Warmest Color,” a lesbian love story that won the Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival earlier this year.

Temple confirmed that she will start filming

“Far From the Madding Crowd” next month, directed by Thomas Vinterberg.

— SAMANTHA CONTI AND J.N.

HEEL THYSELF: “This is sort of a ‘happening,’ like there used to be in the Seventies,” said Manolo Blahnik, who made his first appearance on the London schedule in a very long time — at the Covent Garden Hotel.

“Who cares about the shoes? I love the movie,” he said Sunday, just before a screening of the short film, “Jealousy!,” he commissioned Michael Roberts to direct. “It’s like five minutes of joy. Michael captured the mood of the collection, which is very much turn of the century — 20th century,” said Blahnik to clarify.

The film featured Rupert Everett (“How beautiful is the bastard?” asked Blahnik), Lucy Birley and lots of shoes in a witty tale of love, lust and torment with a Surrealist touch. There were several shots of handsome men with shoes on their heads.

As for the actual collection, Blahnik employed two motifs for spring: flowers and an African influence. The former could be seen in sandals decorated with dainty daisies, while the latter a pump with multicolored suede fringe and, the pièce de résistance, the Agapax, an ankle-wrap style with a metal stiletto heel. “The danger shoe, I love,” said Blahnik. “I think nobody would buy this stuff. You think you can go through the airport with this?” — JESSICA IREDALE BARBIE’S BANDAGE MOMENT: Hervé Léger by Max Azria is the latest design house to dress Barbie, collaborating with Mattel on a limited-edition doll making its debut Oct. 15 at Hervé Léger

stores, select Neiman Marcus locations and on barbiecollector.com. Donning a classic red bandage dress, a black corset belt from the fall 2012 collection, black gladiator boots and a gold clutch, the $150 doll comes with an outfit change of a black-and-white jacquard dress, open-

toe booties and a studded clutch. Barbie’s runway-inspired looks were constructed in the same factory that produces the real collection, and her dresses and accessories will also be available in life-size versions. “As you can imagine, the biggest challenge was the scaling down of the knit,” said chief creative officer Lubov Azria. — MARCY MEDINA

MUSIC MEN: The Rolling Stones’ 50 & Counting tour wrapped up in July, but Mick Jagger is already back at work on a series of projects. “I’ve been doing some songwriting — I write all the time — and I’m producing a film called ‘Get On Up,’ a biopic about James Brown,” he said before the start of L’Wren Scott’s show. “It

starts filming in November and stars Chadwick Boseman, who most recently played Jackie Robinson in the film ‘42.’” — S.C.

SOUTHERN COMFORT: C. Wonder continues to expand its horizons. On Friday, it opened a 3,000-square-foot boutique at 285 King Street in Charleston, S.C. To mark the occasion, the mayor of Charleston, Joseph P. Riley Jr., cut the ribbon with Chris Burch, chief executive officer of Burch Creative Capital.

The Charleston store marks C. Wonder’s 20th location. C. Wonder currently has stores in Atlanta and Orlando, Fla., and, in the next two months, plans to open new stores in Birmingham, Ala., at The Summit and in Raleigh/Durham, N.C., at the Streets at Southpoint. Next year, additional Southern locations will be added to the lineup.

“The South is a very important market for us and we have exceeded expectations in our two current locations and we are looking to do the same in Charleston, Birmingham and Raleigh/ Durham,” said a C. Wonder spokeswoman, who declined to give first-year projections for the Charleston location. The whimsical retailer, which carries women’s apparel, shoes, jewelry and accessories, housewares, home decor and personal electronics, was launched in the fall of 2011. — LISA LOCKWOOD

Russia accounted for 6 percent of the total spend in Mayfair, a 40 percent rise com-pared with 2012, while Qatar, Kuwait and Brazil each generat-ed 5 percent of the spend, with those figures rising in the high double digits year-on-year.

“While Chinese tourists re-main a key driving force behind spend in Mayfair due to their taste for luxury and bespoke items, spending on average 858 pounds [$1,352] per tax-free transaction, the number-one shopper in the area still remains the [American],” said Gordon Clark, U.K. country manager, Global Blue.

As Bond, Mount and Bruton Streets become oversubscribed, Conduit and Albemarle Streets are emerging as up-and-comers. According to real estate agent Savills, Dior has agreed to a deal for a ready-to-wear and accessories shop at 16 Conduit Street that will open in March, while Jimmy Choo will open a store at number 19.

John Varvatos plans to open at numbers 12 and 13, while a 9,000-square-foot retail develop-ment is in the works on the cor-ner of Conduit and Savile Row. In addition, Louisa Guinness Gallery, which specializes in jewelry made by 20th-centu-ry artists including Picasso, Alexander Calder and Anish Kapoor, will open on the street.

Albemarle Street, which runs parallel to Bond and Dover Streets, has been one of Mayfair’s sleepier sites of late — despite longtime luxury resi-dent Brown’s Hotel — but is set to blossom soon. According to a real estate source in London, a single landlord with “a clear vision” has been snapping up properties with an eye to trans-forming Albemarle into a hot retail destination. Earlier this month, Paul Smith opened an ex-panded shop on Albemarle, sell-ing men’s and women’s clothing and furniture, in addition to spe-

cial pieces and one-off designs.“We have had our furniture

and curiosity shop at number 9 Albemarle Street since October 2005, which has always been successful. So when the building next door became available, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to join the two,” said Smith, who owns the bulk of his retail prop-erties worldwide.

“I like a slightly alternative location, and Albemarle Street is definitely one of those. Since we first moved there, the sur-rounding streets, such as Dover Street, have become quite popu-lar. It is — and is continuing to become — a very interesting and vibrant location.”

Boodles, the luxury jeweler, is also set to open on Albemarle, as is Amanda Wakeley, which is moving to a townhouse at num-ber 18 Albemarle Street, opposite Brown’s Hotel, later in the fall. The new space will span 3,000 square feet over three floors and showcase a new retail concept.

“Having a home in Mayfair is important from both a business and brand-image standpoint: We think it will expand our cus-tomer base, attracting different customers from our Fulham Road boutique and our concession in Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge,” said Sagra Maceira de Rosen, the brand’s ceo.

Melandra Curley, a direc-tor at Savills, which is han-dling leases on Albemarle, said brands including Dsquared2 and Marc Jacobs and compa-nies including Club 21, whose portfolio includes A|X Armani Exchange and DKNY Jeans, have expressed interest.

Mayfair’s prices per square foot vary greatly depending on the street: Bond is the most expensive, commanding up to 1,300 pounds, or just more than $2,049, per square foot, while Albemarle is fetching 400 pounds, or $630, and Dover 325 pounds, or $512. Tenants on Mount Street can be expected to pay up to 500 pounds, or $788, a square foot — plus key money — while Conduit commands up to 350 pounds, or $552.

While Mayfair may be super prime, two other neighborhoods are gaining momentum.

Knightsbridge, long a fashion destination, with Harrods and Harvey Nichols, as well as the designer boutiques on Sloane Street, is becoming even more attractive, thanks to several new developments. There is One Hyde Park, a Richard Rogers-designed residential development that in-cludes a Rolex megastore and a McLaren Automotive shop and showroom, while real estate investor Chelsfield Partners is currently halfway through a 75 million pound, or $118 million, program to create a luxury shop-ping destination in a 3.5-acre stretch of Brompton Road that runs between Harvey Nichols and Harrods.

In the neighborhood, prices per square foot are averaging about 550 pounds, or $867, and can reach 800 pounds, or $1,261, plus key money, according to real estate sources.

On nearby Sloane Street, a major redevelopment of Liscartan House, on the southern part of Sloane Street, near Sloane Square, will be completed by the second quarter of 2015, with facil-ities for six large retailers, nine smaller ones and a restaurant.

— WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM LORELEI MARFIL

AND JULIA NEEL

7WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2013

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Lobo of Tome really moved their collec-tion forward.”Sound off: “There are far too many run-way shows. It’s gotten out of control and is unmanageable. This problem does not exist in London, Milan and Paris. It is not necessary for every contemporary brand to have a show.”

Linda Fargo, senior vice president fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf GoodmanFavorite collections: Joseph Altuzarra, Ralph Rucci, Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, Prabal Gurung, and Victoria Beckham. Favorite trends: A new sense of ease, lan-guid and floating looks. Black and espe-cially white continue and the infusion of pastels feels right. A clear favorite of the week was shirt dressing. Sound off: American designers have “now reached a level of sophistication, originality and business viability. The Europeans should take note of our fu-ture national bench strength.”

Tomoko Ogura, senior fashion director at Barneys New YorkFavorite collections: Joseph Altuzarra, Juan Carlos Obando, Narciso Rodriguez, Proenza Schouler and Opening Ceremony.Favorite trends: A modern Nineties remix, minimalism that’s not as stark and has a fluid, feminine touch. Must-haves: Slipdresses, soft tailoring, cropped tops for layering, softer bags from Rag & Bone or The Row.Price-value: “Refreshingly, at the show-rooms, we’ve seen strong price-value re-

lationships. Where we find the fashion and price is outstanding on the runway we’re happy to have the option to select more accessible reinterpretations of these styles in the showroom.”Up-and-comers: “She’s no newcomer within the New York fashion scene but we’re excited about the transformation of VPL into an activewear collection. Victoria Bartlett has always been mind-ful of the anatomy of the body and in-fluenced by sport. A more technical and performance VPL is a natural evolution for the brand.”

Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Lane Crawford in Hong KongFavorite collections: Joseph Altuzarra, Victoria Beckham, Alexander Wang, Jason Wu, Proenza Schouler and Rag & Bone. Favorite trends: Minimal, clean, pared down, a softer and fresher Nineties sen-sibility with an ease and serenity to it, Fifties-midcentury femininity, white, monochromatic black-and-white and plenty of color. Must haves: Cropped tops is the number one element that came through at every collection. Shirting and skirts — short, at the knee or midcalf. The dress is a Nineties slipdress.Ones to watch: Rosie Assoulin, Tome.

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman MarcusFavorite collections: Joseph Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, Victoria Beckham, Helmut Lang, Rag & Bone and Alexander Wang.Favorite trends: A return to separates;

By SHARON EDELSON

NEW YORK — Retailers are hoping con-sumers will be as optimistic as New York’s designers come spring.

New York Fashion Week blew through town with easy, effortless and colorful collections, a welcome development for retailers (all except Marc Jacobs, that is). Store executives used words like “fresh” and “optimistic” to describe a host of new items women presumably don’t own and, they hope, will spur the increasingly picky consumer to buy apparel for a change rather than only accessories.

“There are a lot of great new items coming this way that we don’t have in our wardrobes,” said Suzanne Timmins, se-nior vice president of the fashion office for Hudson’s Bay Co. Those include every-thing from cropped tops and shirting to white motorcycle jackets. There’s a grow-ing separates movement where a matching top that’s not a jacket and skirt are seen as the new suit.

“I felt an energy or a newness in the silhouettes that felt fresh,” said Brooke Jaffe, operating vice president of fashion direction for women’s ready-to-wear at Bloomingdale’s. “It felt like certain shows had an optimism about them.”

It all came down to brass tacks for retailers. “It’s a season that is very much all about sellable product,” said Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Lane Crawford, Hong Kong. “You want to buy and wear without overthinking. New

York City has been very much about that pragmatism. New York for us is an important market and big commerce.”

“We saw a lot of beautiful clothes that have commercial viability,” said Ken Downing, se-nior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus. “We are a color company. Overall, we are very [pleased] about the amount of color we saw on the runways.”

Skirts and pants will be key items, and with many guises, retailers hope consum-ers won’t settle for just one of each.

The trends didn’t go far enough for some, however. “New York has been a bit confused,” said Nevena Borissova, found-er of the Curve stores. “The silhouettes aren’t changing that dramatically.”

Here’s more of what retailers had to say about spring:

Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director at Saks Fifth AvenueFavorite collections: Suno, Alexander Wang, Joseph Altuzarra, The Row, Tory Burch, Helmut Lang, Jason Wu and Proenza Schouler. Favorite trends: Casual and effortless ele-gance, relaxed, but not completely undone. Must-haves: Jumpsuits, white and pale-colored leathers, sleeveless jackets and vests, culottes and three-quarter-length pants, longer skirts and dresses, cropped tops, men’s wear-inspired shirtings, sporty blouson jackets.Ones to watch: “Ramon Martin and Ryan

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Enjoy multi-course gourmet meals and up to 1,500 channels of entertainmentat every seat. Or simply close the doors to your Private Suite and relax in your own quiet space. Fly Emirates® non-stop from JFK to Milan startingOctober 1st. Say hello to arriving in style at Italy’s high-fashion hub.

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pleated pants; shades of pink, black and white, Jordan almond colors and all white; logos; interesting new takes on skirts with longer hemlines, from midi to calf to just above the ankle.Must-haves: The little white dress, the shirt or shirtdress with a fitted bodice and fuller skirt. It’s a piece the customer has not had in her wardrobe for a while. Sound off: “Lincoln Center has become an absolute circus. It’s challenging to get in and challenging to get out. Last season, we saw an enormous influx of people who weren’t in the fashion in-dustry. I’m thrilled that people are enthusiastic about fashion. But when enthusiasm becomes a hindrance to conducting business, we have to ask ourselves, ‘What’s the purpose of hav-ing people there?’”

Brooke Jaffe, operating vice president of fashion direction for women’s rtw at Bloomingdale’sFavorite collections: Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Narciso Rodriguez, Vera Wang and Rag & Bone.Favorite trends: Dressing in separates, black-and-white and head-to-toe white.Sound off: We saw a lot of things on the run-way that were more generous or had more relaxed fits that will probably be toned down in the showroom. The really over-size bottoms and baggy pants, I don’t know if they’ll translate on the selling floor. On Marc Jacobs: “It was certainly different than anything else we’ve seen. I want to understand the inspiration behind it. He’s like no one else. It was fabulous and fantastical.”Ones to watch: Tanya Taylor, Marissa

Webb, Misha Nonoo, Veronica Beard. “We buy Misha Nonoo. We’re always looking for newness at Bloomingdale’s.”

Nicole Fischelis, Macy’s group vice president/fashion director — global forecastingFavorite collections: Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger. Favorite trends: “The white story is amaz-ing. Mesh, sheer, cutouts and lace and eyelet are very modern and very femi-nine. The floral story is very important, from small bouquets to oversize and ar-tistic. The athletic trend and the mood of graphic and black-and-white.” Must-haves: “The new crewneck, shirt-dress, motorcycle jacket, not necessarily in leather and not only in black, varsity jacket and pencil skirt.”Sound off: “The fact that there’s such an overlapping of shows. It would be great if every organization could coordinate a calendar that could be a little more realistic.”

Suzanne Timmins, senior vice president of the fashion office for Hudson’s Bay Co.Favorite collections: Proenza Schouler, Jason Wu, Joseph Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Theyskens’ Theory.Favorite trends: The street and a sporty, Nineties feel are two major themes.Must haves: The blouson, varsity jackets, longer skirts, narrow pencil skirts and fuller skirts, wider trousers, cropped or boxier tops, shirting, shirtdresses, figure-hugging Fifties-esque dresses. Ones to watch: “Wes Gordon put on a re-ally strong show. We buy Wes. We’re pick-ing up Tome and we’re going to look into buying Rosie Assoulin.”

Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direction at Holt Renfrew, CanadaFavorite collections: Joseph Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham, Rag & Bone, The Row, Oscar de la Renta and Marc Jacobs.Favorite trends: Nineties minimalism, pale pinks, white leather, culottes. Slouchy and relaxed silhouettes, separates and two-piece dressing — the matching top and skirt is the new suit. Must-haves: The oversize shirt, bomber jacket, sleeveless oversize jacket-vest, loose relaxed pant and slipdress. Ones to watch: Adam Lippes, Misha Nonoo, Adeam, Rosie Assoulin, Tome and Wes Gordon. We picked up Tanya Taylor, a Canadian, and we’re starting to see some growth with Jonathan Simkhai and O’2nd.

Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president of designer merchandising at Nordstrom Favorite collections: Narciso Rodriguez, Prabal Gurung and Proenza SchoulerFavorite trends: “We’re really loving the important skirt trend. There were amaz-ing transparent skirts, voluminous skirts, pleated skirts and supercool pencil skirts. We saw a lot of longer lengths in dresses and skirts and there was an abundance of desirable cropped tops on the runways. We also loved the return of so many solid colors this season.”

Nevena Borissova, founder of the Curve storesFavorite collections: Alexander Wang, Joseph Altuzarra, Phillip Lim and Proenza Schouler.Favorite trends: “There are new shapes and new dimensions. The Nineties thing was really on the runways. Cropped tops, but

they have to be styled right.”Sound off: “What’s been missing from New York is novelty. That very embel-lished item, I need to have that. People are more playing with fabrics. For me it’s exciting, but to the average consumer, it’s not that different.” Price-value: “It’s expensive. In some collec-tions, a blazer costs as much as a couch. I’ll buy two that are very expensive and 15 cheaper ones.”

Carmen Borgonovo, fashion director at My-wardrobe.comFavorite collections: Thakoon’s new take on minimalism, Proenza Schouler and Marc Jacobs’ dark Victorian extravagance.Favorite trends: Nineties nostalgia, the lightweight minimalist trend, anything white and sugar-almond pastels.Must-haves: Wide-leg culottes at Suno, pleated below-the-knee skirt at Proenza Schouler and an embroidered jacket from Marc Jacobs or Altuzarra.Up-and-comers: Rosie Assoulin is definitely the one to watch.

Susan Davidson, chief executive officer of ScoopFavorite collections: Michael Kors, Alexander Wang, Zac Posen, Jonathan Simkhai and Kaufman Franco. Favorite trends: Eyelet, perforated and stamped leathers, floral prints, black and white and light pink.Must-haves: Boxy shirts, Alexander Wang’s “Parental Advisory” T-shirt. Ones to watch: “Veronica Beard and Jonathan Simkhai looked good. The one to watch is going to be Edun with new creative director Danielle Sherman.”

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Proenza Schouler Altuzarra Rag & Bone

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ESTÉE LAUDER collected an eclectic group of Hollywood and fashion names, posing as muses, at the Guggenheim Museum Thursday night, to promote the upcoming launch of its new women’s fragrance, Modern Muse.

“To me, a muse is someone who makes you work harder,” said Drew Barrymore, in a Marc Jacobs dress (having just come from his runway show) and her mother-in-law Coco Kopelman’s Chanel jacket.

For her, that overall muse is her mother-in-law. “Just because of the human being she is.” The actress reveled in the fact that Jacobs had mixed patterns galore in his spring show. Barrymore said, “I love mixing patterns. And it will give me a good argument to my husband [Will Kopelman] for when he’s like, ‘Whoa, that’s a lot of pattern mixing.’ I’ll be able to point to this and say, ‘Look! It’s OK!’”

“That’s my muse there, Linda Johnson,” said Leonard Lauder, chairman emeritus of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., pointing to his fiancée. He noted that he is engaged, but did not mention a wedding date. Of Modern Muse, he said, “I think it’s the best fragrance we’ve done in memory. It’s a gorgeous fragrance, and it’s going to be a long-term success. It’s going to be one of our classics, because once you smell it, you’re hooked on it.”

Maggie Gyllenhaal, wearing vintage Yves Saint Laurent, was clearly channeling her muses as she eagerly discussed her latest project. “I’m making a BBC series called ‘The Honorable Woman,’ and it’s the thing I’m most proud of that I’ve ever worked on in my life. It’s a seven-part series about a woman whose father was a Zionist gun runner. She inherits his company and basically subverts what he was doing and starts laying communication

cable — like for the Internet and telephones — between Israel and Palestine. But she’s also like f--king people in the back of taxi cabs and watched her father be killed in front of her. She’s a big mess and at the same time really trying to do something honorable and incredibly difficult. And because it’s Israel and Palestine and she’s English, it ends up pulling in the mix MI6 and CIA and there are kidnappings and murders, but it’s basically about this woman who’s both deeply, deeply flawed and really trying to be honorable.”

Gyllenhaal took a break from filming to spend time with her family, actor Peter Sarsgaard and the couple’s two daughters, Ramona and Gloria. “At this point, the things that help draw me to a project are that they’ll let me leave for four weeks and get my daughter [Ramona] into second grade,” she said. She’s also planning to do a Sam Gold play, “The Village Bike,” next spring.

Like many actresses before her, Gyllenhaal also didn’t discount the possibility of getting involved with the beauty world. “One of the things that’s most interesting about that [beauty ads] for actors is that it’s being inside of a piece of art. If the campaign is beautiful, then you’re actually making a piece of art with someone.”

10 WWD monday, september 16, 2013

THE LAST SHOT of Rooney Mara’s campaign spot for Calvin Klein’s new fragrance Downtown features the actress staring out a taxi window studying a passing New York. This week, many a passenger of the city’s cab-taking classes was not dolefully looking out the window but rather at Mara’s mug, thanks to the video’s frequency of play on those unavoidable in-taxi TVs. In fact, many attendees of Thursday night’s Calvin Klein bash — which celebrated both the new perfume and Francisco Costa’s decade as its women’s Collection creative director — had seen the ad on the trek to

TriBeCa’s Spring Studios for the party.

“I’ll have to remember not to take any more cabs here. I’ll take Uber from now on,” Mara said in her measured cadence. The actress looked the consummate Calvin Klein girl on the party’s press line in her silk crepe slipdress from spring 2012, a shock of jet black against her alabaster skin.

“But it was really fun to film,” Mara continued, playing with her rings as she spoke. “I think we took, like, five days; it was summertime in New York, and David Fincher directed it, which was really nice of him to do. We just had a lot of fun.”

After moseying down the step-and-repeat, revelers mounted a dusty elevator up to the party level. Doors opened to a clean, starkly white room (very on-brand), which was barely lit and thumped courtesy of DJ Mike Nouveau, posted onstage.

Daria Strokous got grooving by the bar to Missy Elliott’s “Work It.” Anh Duong planted herself between Dylan McDermott and Nicole Kidman in the cordoned-off VIP area and gabbed with the actress. The booths got increasingly snug as Leonardo DiCaprio, Drake and their respective entourages were whisked in. Alexis Stoudemire curled up to hubby Amar’e Stoudemire at the next table. Alexander Skarsgård eschewed the velvet rope in favor of mingling with the rubbernecking mortals, most

of whom he towered over. Eventually, Pharrell Williams emerged onstage.

“I want to thank Calvin Klein for lending me these jeans and killer white T,” he said into the mic. “Those Nineties ads meant everything to me.”

Revelers began inching their way toward the stage. Female attendees did so with remarkable agility. The crooner got the crowd going, running through his various hit singles, even taking Lily Kwong’s hand in the front row while serenading, “you the hottest bitch in this place” during “Blurred Lines.” Her cheeks burned and she backed herself further into the crowd. Others were not so easily flustered.

“I want all the ladies up here for this one,” Williams commanded. One by one, chicly dressed partygoers ascended — Natalie Joos and Hanneli Mustaparta among them — with Williams himself doing much of the

heavy lifting. By the time the performer got to “Beautiful,” he had about a dozen fashion-heavyweights-turned-groupies

jiggling beside him, each taking time to court the singer in a one-on-one grind session. One particularly interested reveler batted her eyes at the singer and started to rub his chest. Williams turned toward the woman’s date, still standing in the audience down below. “Sorry dude,” he shrugged.

� —�TAYLOR�HARRIS

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Nicole Kidman in Calvin Klein Collection.

Alexander Skarsgård in Calvin Klein Collection.

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Francisco Costa, Drake and Italo Zucchelli.

Drew Barrymore in a Chanel jacket and Marc Jacobs dress.

Carol Lim and Liu Wen in Opening Ceremony with Prabal Gurung.

Maggie Gyllenhaal in Yves Saint Laurent.

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“There are certain things in your career that you manage, and others that you create,” said Jane Hudis, global brand president of the Estée Lauder brand, in a black Lanvin cocktail dress. “I created this and feel like a sculptor, an artist. It’s very big and very close to my heart. We’re just now rolling the products into the stores, and it’s doing quite nicely. Of all the things I’ve done in my career, this feels the most important and significant and personal to me.”

Iman, who dazzled in purple Zac Posen, ruefully noted that the designer fit the dress on Pat Cleveland’s 17-year-old daughter. But while she might have the body of a teenager, other parts are considerably older, like her knees. “Trust me.”

“A muse is somebody that can inspire change, who has inspiration for the future but is rooted in the great things of the past, ” said Fabrizio Freda, president and chief executive officer of the Estée Lauder Cos., who named two muses: Hudis and his wife Marianne.

Tom Pecheux, who grabbed a nap after keying the makeup at Ralph Lauren’s Thursday morning runway show, accompanied Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. While the twins shied away from the press, Pecheux spoke of the inspiration his recent trip to the American Southwest gave him. But it wasn’t without drama: “For the first time in my life, I got stopped in Marfa [Tex.] by the border police,” he said. “And it was the most scary thing in the world. They were like, ‘Passport, where are you from, what are you doing so close to the Mexican border?’ I said, ‘I’m drug-free sir! And I’m too blue-eyed to be Mexican.’”

— Julie NaughtoN aNd Pete BorN

11WWD monday, september 16, 2013

eye

named Stephanie Solomon, formerly of Bloomingdale’s, as fashion director.

Sadove and Frasch have been two of the industry’s most popular retail lead-ers. With their complementary skill sets — Sadove, the strategist with strong market-ing, financial and people skills and point man to Wall Street; Frasch, the merchant with deep-seeded ties to brands and de-signers — the two worked well togeth-er. They typically appeared together at events, worked conference calls together and projected a harmoni-ous working relationship. They guided Saks through some tough times, includ-ing the Great Recession, where the retailer’s steep markdowns rattled the vendor community. However, relations were quickly restored with ven-dors, and they have since revamped the merchan-dise, continued to weed out weak stores, rolled out Off 5th outlets, and re-jiggered operations and responsibilities to take an omnichannel approach.

Saks’ performance has been up and down over the past decade, the stock has stagnated and profit tar-gets have been elusive, though earnings have grown. The Sadove-Frasch team has managed to maintain the tony image of the Saks brand, through renovations, special events and designer appearances, and sustain the prominence of the Fifth Avenue flagship with its international ap-peal and audience.

Ultimately, they were successful in get-ting the business sold.

Last month, Frasch wrote a letter to vendors after the agreement was inked with HBC noting that Hudson’s Bay was attracted to the “Saks brand, our people, our real estate and store base, our loyal customers and our very special vendor relationships.

“Most importantly, they believe in the power of Saks Fifth Avenue and in the long-term growth potential of the busi-ness,” he said. “Our understanding is that HBC will continue to run Saks Fifth Avenue separately under their corporate umbrella and that Saks Fifth Avenue will remain headquartered in New York City.”

Frasch has a long career in mer-chandising. He began as a temp at Bloomingdale’s after college, taking re-turns in the men’s department. He be-came a Saks associate buyer for designer shoes, later a store manager, and, subse-quently, a dress divisional merchandise manager. He was at Neiman Marcus from 1984 to 1994, rising to senior vice presi-dent and general merchandise manager and making his mark in the luxury sec-tor, building the store’s designer and bridge businesses. He later became presi-

dent and ceo of Escada USA, then president of GFT USA from 1996 until 2000. From 2000 to 2004, Frasch was chair-man and ceo of Bergdorf Goodman before joining Saks again, as the store’s top merchant. When he was hired by Saks, he had a peculiar role, due to his non-compete contract at Bergdorf ’s. Saks said he would be supervising private label and interna-tional operations for Saks Inc., given Frasch’s career experience in the luxury arena and his links to designers and suppliers. After 10 months, however,

he was named vice chairman and chief merchant, responsible for the merchan-dising and planning divisions. His 10022-Shoe strategy has made a major mark on the industry, sparking footwear wars among leading department stores in dif-ferent cities.

Sadove joined Saks in January 2002 as vice chairman and rose to chief oper-ating officer two years later. He stepped up to ceo in January 2006, after turmoil at the department store ranging from chargeback investigations to rumors that the company would be sold. Sadove suc-ceeded R. Brad Martin. Earlier, Sadove held posts of increasing responsibility with Bristol-Myers Squibb Co. between 1991 and 2001, including president of Bristol-Myers Squibb Worldwide Beauty Care and Nutritionals. Among other accomplishments at Bristol-Myers, he developed Clairol into a leading hair-care business and oversaw its sale to Procter & Gamble Co. for $4.95 billion. From 1975 to 1991, he worked at General Foods USA.

Sadove, Frasch Exits Seen ImminentPharrell Williams in Calvin Klein Collection.

Rooney Mara in Calvin Klein Collection.

Ryan Lochte and Amar’e Stoudemire, both in Calvin Klein Collection.

Tom Pecheux with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen.

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Stephen I. Sadove

w16a010(11)b.indd 11 9/15/13 3:35 PM09152013153745

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CAVALLI UNVEILED: Four years after penning his first rough draft, Roberto Cavalli will on Monday unveil his autobiography, called “Just Me!”

“I screwed everybody over — I have been an amazing actor,” Cavalli confessed to WWD. “With this book, people will discover a Roberto Cavalli that you don’t expect, because the recital is over, so I take the stage and introduce the real me.”

Dropping his flamboyant mask, in the book Cavalli retraces the most significant moments of his life, starting from the tragic loss of his father, who was executed by German soldiers in 1944, when the designer was only three years old.

“This is not a book about fashion, it is about a boy from a modest family who achieved success thanks to his strong willpower,” Cavalli said. “I wrote this book very slowly. I wrote it for me and also to leave something to my children, to inspire them.”

According to Cavalli, the autobiography also acts as a motivational tool for younger generations. “The book features a dedication [to the most important women of his life, including his mother, her sister Lietta and his two wives, Silvanella and Eva], but actually I really want to dedicate this book to young people,” he said. Cavalli said that even if he doesn’t consider himself a designer, because he is not able to sketch, he found his way to succeed by developing a certain type of lifestyle brand. “I thought that young people need to

understand how important it is to rely on themselves and their qualities.”

Cavalli also expressed frustration about the fashion world. “The fashion industry has changed a lot, and now it’s more important to do a beautiful advertising campaign than a pretty collection,” he said. “I feel a lot of resentment. I made the most of it, I found success, but I would like the fashion industry to go back to the past. I liked to make dresses, make women look beautiful and sexy. Today, I don’t have that amazing feeling anymore, because the fashion industry changed a lot. Journalists consider excellent people who are just copying what others have done before.”

Asked about retirement, Cavalli categorically ruled out the possibility. “How could I stop? Indeed, I could not stay away from the catwalk. When I go out, it’s such an emotion…and I look you all in the eyes,” he said with a laugh.

— ALESSANDRA TURRA

LOVE FEST: On Wednesday night, Self magazine hosted a dinner for its annual awards recognizing philanthropic work. Lucy Danziger, the editor in chief, was one of the first speakers. She introduced the awards, and also took her time at the podium to tell Condé Nast president Bob Sauerberg, seated directly across from her, she really, really loves working at Condé.

“I have to say there is somebody in the house who also needs a shout-out and that is Bob,” she said. “None of us would be here but for the great leadership at the top of this corporation.”

She did not seem to run out of effusive praise for her employers of more than a decade.

It was the 12th anniversary of Sept. 11, and after a day of moving tributes, she had gotten to thinking about the small ways people honor their country. Personally, she felt proud Condé was doing its part too.

“I am so proud we’re going to be in that tower,” she said referring to the One World Trade development, where the company will move in 2015. “Because we symbolize the best of this city, this country, this age.”

Danziger has been editor in chief of Self since 2001, and after that long a tenure, it figures an editor would want to reflect on her legacy.

But Danziger emphasized she still has more work to do. Referring to her daughter, she said, “I never say to her, ‘I have to go to work.’ It’s not a sentence I’ve ever uttered to my children. I say, ‘I want to go to work.’ I feel so lucky to do what I do every single day.”

Danziger acknowledged her corporate enthusiasm might appear too transparent, but she pressed on anyway. It was the heroic women in the room who inspired her so, she said.

“I don’t like to tell that to people so often. When your boss is in the room, don’t say things like, ‘I could work for free.’ You really do need that paycheck. But, every single day, I think about tonight, and I would absolutely go to work for free because I’m so privileged to shine a light on the work you all do.”

The awards, called Women Doing Good and on their sixth year, later went on to a number of activists and philanthropists, like Shakira, Katie Lowes of TV’s “Scandal” and Padma Lakshmi, who delivered an emotional speech about her foundation.

— ERIK MAzA

WWD.COMWWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 201312

Jennings: Survival Relies on ChangeBy JEAN E. PALMIERI

NEW YORK — Embrace change and never give up.

Those were just a few of the words of advice imparted by Andrew Jennings, chief executive officer of Karstadt Warenhaus Gmbh, to LIM College stu-dents on Sept. 9. Jennings was a partici-pant in the college’s CEO Speaker Series and addressed a room full of M.B.A. stu-dents and scholars.

“Change is the only constant,” he said. “The old rules no longer apply, and a business that fails to be relevant to the customer today will not have cus-tomers tomorrow.”

Jennings said that while retailing has always been about change, the key prin-ciples have remained the same over the years: providing great value, having an efficient and reliable supply chain and providing exceptional customer service.

“But success in the past is no guarantee of success in the future,” he said, pointing to the disappearance of once-prosperous retailers such as Blockbuster and Borders. “All businesses are under constant pres-sure to innovate, sharpen and differenti-ate, and our job as leaders is to understand and make appropriate ongoing refine-ments to the way we do business.”

He said the first step is to know the cus-tomer. “One of the key initiatives I’ve intro-duced at Karstadt in Germany is a lifestyle segmentation program,” he explained, which resulted in identifying six distinct customer segments, including a classic cross-shopper, one whose shopping is driv-en by kids and another who seeks sports and technical gear. Once identified, retail-ers can buy the right brands and products to appeal to each segment, modernize and improve the selling floors to accommodate the product and target marketing pro-grams to connect with each.

“This is a very important message we use to gain market share,” he said.

Jennings said understanding the in-teraction between brick-and-mortar and online retailing is also essential in

today’s world. “There are no firewalls [between these two types of retailing],” he said. “They’re profoundly entwined and mutually supporting.” He said that 76 percent of consumers today recom-mend companies they like to a friend or colleague, while 63 percent of all online shoppers read product-related com-ments from friends on Facebook. “Word of mouth remains a crucial influencing factor. It’s just that that word of mouth is as likely to be digital as it is verbal.”

Retailers can participate in this “digital blizzard” by constantly telling their customers about new products and where to get the best deal. “[Customers] want to communicate, and we have to be ready to respond,” he said.

Jennings also said retailers need to work hard to hire the best people to work for their stores. “Retail is still a people business,” he said. “We have to recruit the best people, we have to develop them and we need to listen to them.” Google, eBay, Amazon and

Zappos are among the best examples, he said, noting that he looks mainly for “life experience, energy and passion” when seeking employees. He recounted the story of a waitress he encountered at a New York City restaurant who was so superior at her job that he recruit-ed her to join Saks Fifth Avenue. He placed her at the Fifth Avenue Club, the store’s personal shopping department, and within a year she had booked more than $1 million in sales.

Jennings then turned to the changing retail landscape. Technology has given businesses the ability to adjust prices with just the click of a mouse, and re-tailers need to be prepared for that. But instead of focusing only on price, stores need to “excel in other aspects of cus-tomer service — including the quality of the customer experience in-store, de-livery time, a willingness to refund and excellent warranty periods. How do you win the war on price? By winning on all other fronts,” he said.

At Karstadt, which emerged from bankruptcy three years ago, man-agement has been restructuring the business, slashing jobs and modern-izing the assortment to keep pace with competitors. Jennings said the newly unveiled and refurbished 220,000-square-foot Düsseldorf flag-ship sports more than 100 new brands, including Topshop, whose introduction into Karstadt stores last week has been “unbelievable.” Jennings has also been the catalyst behind the Feel London promotion at the company’s 84 stores this fall. “That’s what the customer wants,” he said, “an experience.”

While retailing remains a challeng-ing industry, “with the right ideas and the right strategies, I believe the tradi-tional retail industry has a very bright future. Make a plan, make sure it’s the right one, then execute it ruthlessly.”

Jennings, who is planning to leave Karstadt when his contract expires at the end of the year, would not divulge what he plans to do next. But he hinted the plan is in motion: His next step will be in London.

MeMo pad

Andrew Jennings ANDREW S. GORDON, 52, a former architect and designer with Gruppo Finanziario Tessile/Giorgio Armani, died Sept. 5 at his home in East Hampton, N.Y., following a long battle with cancer.

Gordon worked for Armani for 10 years before starting his own architec-ture and design company, Andrew Gordon Inc., with current projects in New York, Florida and California. Earlier in his ca-reer, he worked with the architecture firm Hanna/Oli. He built his reputation on his modern, minimalist aesthetic.

In later years, Gordon’s focus shift-ed away from architecture to painting, experimenting with variations in light and texture.

Gordon graduated from the University of Pennsylvania, where he earned a de-gree in Design of the Environment. He also studied architecture at the Harvard Graduate School of Design.

In February, Gordon was cleared by a judge to collect on the vast major-ity of the $260 million estate of his late boyfriend, Christopher Browne, former managing director of the investment firm Tweedy, Browne Co., after a bitter lawsuit brought by Browne’s friends and family against Gordon was dropped.

Gordon is survived by his parents, Robert Gordon 3rd and Eleanor, his brothers, Robert and William, and a sis-ter, Elizabeth Dellenbaugh.

Contributions in Gordon’s name may be made to Rockefeller University and the East Hampton Village Preservation Society.

obituary

Andrew S. Gordon

By DAVID LIPKE

GRYPHON, the contemporary label Aimee Cho and Andrew Rosen founded in 2006, is shuttering. This fall is the last season the New York-based company is shipping merchandise to retailers.

Cho cited slowing sales as a key factor in the decision to close the company. “There comes a time when either a line takes off or it plateaus. And I don’t think we ever reached our taking-off point, for whatever reason,” she said. “The marketplace is so crowded. It took a lot of soul-searching.”

About 50 retail accounts carried Gryphon in recent seasons, including key partners Saks Fifth Avenue and Shopbop.

Rosen — who is global chief executive officer of Theory and Helmut Lang, units of Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. — had exited his 50 percent ownership in Gryphon last September. Rosen is a savvy investor in fashion brands and holds stakes in Proenza Schouler, Rag & Bone and Alice + Olivia.

Cho bought back Rosen’s share of Gryphon and then sold it to another inves-tor, Los Angeles-based Armen Gregorian, who also holds a stake in A.L.C., the label Andrea Lieberman founded and designs. Gregorian was previously ceo of Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent.

Cho said it was an amicable and mutual decision between herself and Gregorian to wind down Gryphon.

Cho originally launched Gryphon, with Rosen’s backing, following a six-year stint as a fashion writer at Vogue. The company was conceived around the concept of the perfect trenchcoat and then expanded into a full collection, with an aesthetic that tied back to the classic raincoat. More recently, the company had pulled back on other categories to focus once again on outerwear.

Cho said she is already working on a new women’s apparel venture with a group of partners. She declined to pro-vide details but said the new brand will launch in the spring.

Gryphon Label Shutting Down

w16a012a.indd 1 9/15/13 4:11 PM09152013161222

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