digital textile printing status 2014 and emerging field of … · 2019-03-22 · digital printing...

Dig i ta l Tex t i l e P r i n t i ng S ta tus 2014

and

Emerg ing F i e l d o f Sur face Imag ing

Digital Fabrication and Digital Printing

NIP30

by

Society for Imaging Science and Technology

Imaging Society of Japan

at

Philadelphia, PA

Hitoshi UjiieDirector of the Center for Excellence in Surface Imaging

Philadelphia University4201 Henry Avenue, Philadelphia, PA, 19144 USA

215.951.2682 [email protected]

September 8, 2014

• State of the Art of Textile Printing Industry

• State of the Art of Inkjet Textile Technology (after ITMA 2003)

• Case Studies and Results (Direct Coloration)

– Printing Operations in Europe and US

• Digital Fabrication on Textiles (Wearable electronics / Smart textiles)

• Outcomes

– Design, Engineering and Business

• Into the future

– Emerging field of Surface Imaging

O u t l i n e s

September 8, 2014

Sources: Web Consulting 2005 and I.T. Strategies 2006

Sta te o f the Ar t o f Tex t i l e P r i n t i ng Indus t ry

End Uer Expenditures

Soft Signage

Soft Signage 33% ( 45+ % inkjet printing penetration)Industrial Textile 67% ( 1+ % inkjet printing penetration)

Source: Osiris, 2008; Reggiani Macchine, 2013

29.5 + Billion meters per year (2013)

At least 1% per year of increase

Reasons:

Acceleration of fashion cycles

Continuous world population growth

Printed textile world wide in linear meters

• Worldwide Printing Growth (Industrial Textile Printing – interior / fashion / technical)

• Worldwide Total Textile Printing $100+ B (analog and digital)

Textile – A substrate made of fibers by woven, knit and/ or non woven structures

September 8, 2014

Tex t i l e Co lo ra t i on P r in t i ng

Source: Digital Textiles, 2014; Reggiani Macchine 2013; Osiris, 2008; Stork Textile Printing Group, 2002

Asian countries produce more than 60 % of Printed Textiles

September 8, 2014

• China• India• Americas• Western Europe• Middle East

China32%

India32%

Americas13%

Western Europe11%

Middle East12%

Printing region End use types

Fashion Textile54%

Interior Textiles38%

Technical Textile

8%

• Fashion Textiles• Interior Textiles• Technical

Textiles

Tex t i l e Co lo ra t i on P r in t i ng

Textile substrate types

September 8, 2014

Printing technology types

Cotton53%

Cotton / Polyester

14%

Viscose8%

Polyester22%

Silk3%

Rotary63%

Flat Bed25%

Table4%

Transfer7%

Digital1%

• Cotton• Cotton Polyester• Viscose• Polyester• Silk

• Rotary Screen• Automatic Flat Bed• Table• Transfer• Digital

Source: Digital Textiles, 2014; Reggiani Macchine 2013; Osiris, 2008; Stork Textile Printing Group, 2002

D i g i t a l P r i n t i n g T e c h n o l o g y a f t e r I T M A 2 0 0 3 - 2 0 1 1 – 2 0 1 5

• Inkjet Technology becomes the main digital textile printing technology

Piezo electric DOD / Multi-deflection Continuous Flow Inkjet

• Established Production Printing 400 – 600 - 8000 sqm/h v.s 150 sqm/h (2003)

• Increasing Reliability

• Flexible Printing: Grayscale / Variable 4 pl – 12 pl – 40+ pl v.s. 30-40 pl static drop size (2003)

• Attempt to solve penetration: Introduction of penetration ink / Plasma treatment

• More developments in high production and finishing

Epson, Konica / Minolta, Kyocera, Ricoh, Seiko, Fujifilm Dimatix – More development for aqueous print heads

Reggiani / Tencate Advanced Technology – Digital Finishing Machines

Shifts towards High Speed Production Printers

September 8, 2014

P r i n t i n g S t a t i s t i c s

• Average production printing speed: 400-600 sq meters per hour

• High speed industrial print headsKyocera (KJ4B): development started in 2001 and public announcement in 2007

2009 897 units2012 4181 units (500% increase in 3 years)

• Annual printing speed increase (from 2003):Monna Lisa Printer (Robustelli/Epson/ Fortex)

2003 (Gen 1) 27 sq meters per hour2007 (Gen 2) 65 sq meters per hour (60%+ annually)2009 (Gen 3) 132 sq meters per hour 2011 (Gen 4) 210 sq meters per hour (80%+ annually)

80+ % annual increase (since 2003)

• MS-LaRio: 8100 sq meters per hours (70 linear meters per minutes)Reggiani DReAM: 150 sq meters per hour – 75 linear meters per hour (2003)

Survey by the Center for Excellence of Digital Inkjet Printing of Textiles at Philadelphia University, March 2011

• 119 Kyocera Heads (17 heads inline x 7 beams/colors)

September 8, 2014

H i g h S p e e d P r o d u c t i o n P r i n t e r s

• MSJP and JPK: MS Industry

1 line + 4 Kyocera heads or 3 line + 24 headsOver 600 sq meter per hour (200 + linear)600 – 2400 dpi, 1-4 pass printing€ 300K – 500K

• Monna Lisa: Robustelli / Epson / Fortex

32 Epson heads 4 line + 8 heads 210 sq meters per hour (720 x 720 dpi)720dpi, 2-16 pass printing, 4-18 pl variable drop14 M linear meter per hour (2010)€ 400K

• Nessenger Pro 1000: Konica / Minolta

81 Konica / Minolta heads 9 line + 9 heads 1000 sq meters per hour (720 x 540 dpi)360 (native) x 1080 dpi, 2-12 pass printing12 (24) pl multi drop € 850K

• ReNOIR: Reggiani Machine

1 line + 8 Kyocera heads or 2 line + 16 headsOver 540 sq meter per hour (200 linear)600 – 2400 dpi, 1-2 pass printing€ 250K – 500K

September 8, 2014

Today ’s Rea l i t y

Digital printing penetration in industrial textile ($67B)

Digital printing penetration in soft signage ($33B)

45%

1.2%September 8, 2014

Source:Reggiani Macchine, 2013, Digital Textiles, 2014

2020 - P red i c t i on


Popularity of Rotary Screen Printing (1963) – more than 10 years

Introduction of production digital textile printer - 2003

2 - 4%September 8, 2014

Source:Reggiani Macchine, 2013, Digital Textiles, 2014

C a s e S t u d i e s

September 8, 2014

Como reg ion: (D ig i t a l Tex t i l e P r i n t i ng Cap i ta l )

• It is known for high end prints including for fashion and home. Avantgard Studio, Chiara, De-Ca Stamp, Di Casssna Pirzardi, Lipomo, Luce, Maver, Mantero, Miroglio, Nomega, Olonia, Ratti, Seride, etc.

• Started with multiple Mimaki TX printers in early 2000 have been replaced with high speed production printers (Robustilli MonnaLisa, Reggiani, ReNOIR, MS JP / JPK) for productions.

• Integrations of conventional and digital productions.

• End users demand for Digital Printing production.

• One of the most installation numbers of digital printer in a world.

• “Speed is not the issue, the quality is.”

Epson Textile Solution Center (Como)Epson Textile Printing Center (Kyoto, Japan)

September 8, 2014

F i n i s h i n g O p e r a t i o n ( C o m o )

• Steaming, washing, finishing and tentering

• Former engraver becomes finishing operation for digital textile printing

• One of the biggest problems in the US

September 8, 2014

H e i m t e x t i l 2 0 1 4

• A larger popularity for digital printing with reactive dye on bedding (3.2 m)

Conventionally, a majority of bedding has been printed by pigments.

• Market domination of latex pigment technology on wall covering

A large scale wall murals with HP latex technology

One of the main annual tradeshows for interior textiles

September 8, 2014

M e n d e r e s

• Vertical home textile mills in Turkey (Bedding)

• Yarn spinning - Fabric constructions (weave & Knit) - Printing & Finishing

• 400,000 meter / day: Printing and dyeing

• One of MS LaRio installation site (1 single pass printer = 20x multi pass printers)

September 8, 2014

2013 2014 2020

Menderes Digital: 1% Digital: 10% Digital: 50%

Worldwide Digital: 1% Digital: 1% Digital: 2-4%

Tex t i l e p r i n t i ng i ndus t ry i n the U .S .

Apparel: Almost diminished - a couple of specialized printers (swimwear / silk)

Home Furnishing (Decorative): Several vat dye rotary printers – (technical applications for military)

Home Furnishing (Domestic): Diminished – Pigment printersDupont targeted digital production printer for this market in 2001 - (Artistri 3210: 3.2 meter wide pigment printer)

D i g i t a l Te x t i l e P r i n t i n g i n t h e U S• Many digital printing operations are from engravers and new comers.

Rothtec Engraving, Custom Printed Fabrics (Zenith Engraving), Advanced Digital Textiles (Master Screen), Ultimate Textile (Cheran Digital Imaging), First2Print, B3 Studio, Fabrics2Dye4, Adaptive Textiles, Spoonflower, etc.

• Lack of driving factors for the digital textile printing marketplace (after 2008)

In 2000’s, the US market was stimulated by sales and marketing forces of printing manufactures –Dupont, Reggiani, etc.

• Lack of resources for Pre and Post treatment in wet processing – favor to dry processing

Reggiani / Huntsman / HP (Scitex Vison) DReAM: 2003 –200940 pl static drop

Dupont / Ichinose Toshin / SeikoArtistri 2020: 2002-200835 pl static drop

September 8, 2014

Spoon f l ower (www.spoon f l ower . com)

• Online printing service, locates in Mebane, NC.

• For small design and craft practitioners as well as students.

• Established in May, 2008 with Modified Mutoh textile printer with pigment ink.

• $18 – 32 per yard$5 for swatch (8”x8”)on their 100% cotton cloth.

• Submit the design online:150dpi, RGB or Lab, Tiff or Jpg or Png format

• 3 weeks delivery time

September 8, 2014

Dig i ta l D i rec t to Garment P r in t i ng

• US is considered as the one of the biggest DTG market.

• Introduced in early 2000’s and now become competitive.

• EPSON industrial printing initiative for Textile.

• Pigment white (Titanium-dioxide) – more than 50% use in DTG.

• Ink recirculation print heads: StarFire (Fujifilm Dimatix), JetFlow (Seiko Instruments)

2004

2014

September 8, 2014

R e s u l t s

§ EngineeringTechnology After ITMA 2003 to 2014

Upgrading Production Printing Speed and Refining Printing Quality

Need for robust digital coloration for high end home furnishing (cellulosic fibers)

Compatible digital colorants to vat dye in conventional printing Need for High Quality Low Cost Printing Solutions

Independent Textile Designers and Textile Art / Craft Practitioners§ Design

Design AestheticsNew design styles and Materiality

§ BusinessNew Workflow

Alternative Manufacturing

Digital textile printing finds the way where it does something analog printing can not accomplish. no engraving / new design / minimum machine downtime / sustainable / personalization/short run production / fast turn around / minimum dye waste/ no color registration problems / mass-customization / minimum inventory / etc….

September 8, 2014

N e w D e s i g n S t y l e s

• Photographic

• Unlimited use of color

• Diminutive

• Digital effect

• Engineered

• Materiality

September 8, 2014

P h o t o g r a p h i c

September 8, 2014

September 8, 2014

U n l i m i t e d U s e o f C o l o r s

September 8, 2014

D i m i n u t i v e

September 8, 2014

September 8, 2014

D i g i t a l E f f e c t s

September 8, 2014

Digital Inkjet Wall paper of Douglas Gordon by Maharam

September 8, 2014

E n g i n e e r e d

September 8, 2014

M a t e r i a l i t y ( T a c t i l e Q u a l i t y )

September 8, 2014

“Our specialty is to blend printing images into tactile, which generate a variety of moods to the final products.”

By Marco Alvarez, Fabric Images

M a t e r i a l i t y ( T a c t i l e Q u a l i t y )

September 8, 2014

September 8, 2014

B u s i n e s s a n d W o r k f l o w

September 8, 2014

A l t e r n a t i v e M a n u f a c t u r i n g

• P e r s o n a l i z a t i o n

• M a s s C u s t o m i z a t i o n

• N e o C o t t a g e I n d u s t r y M o d e l

September 8, 2014

N e o C o t t a g e I n d u s t r y M o d e l

• Individual Designers can directly deal with end users.

• From designing to productions, designers / practitioners can control the systems and processes as metamedium*, dynamic and creative medium with many outcomes and processes rather than programmable production machines.

• Synchronization between small digital printers to mid / high end printers. (new trend)

• A New business Style.

* Individual designers / practitioners can produce short to medium run production.

* Larger volume can be out sourced to commission digital textile printers.

* Kay A, (1984), ‘Computer Software’ , Science American, 25, 3, 52-59.

September 8, 2014

A N e e d f o r s y n c h r o n i z e p r i n t i n g s o l u t i o n s b e t w e e n

s a m p l i n g a n d p r o d u c t i o n

• Epson SurePress FP-30160 • To sync with Monna Lisa printing system

Epson Epson / Robustelli35 sqm/h vs. 200+ sqm/h ( Monna Lisa)$190Kvs. vs. $500+K

September 8, 2014

W e a r a b l e e l e c t r o n i c s

D i g i t a l F a b r i c a t i o n o n T e x t i l e s

September 8, 2014

• Market prediction: Over $14 B (2014) to $70+ B (2024)Google eyeglasses – 70 million Users by 2017

• Devices | Apparel/Textiles:Glasses, jewelries, headgear, belt, arm wear, wrist wear, legwear, footwear, skin patches, exoskeletons and e-textiles

• Market sectors:Healthcare (medical, fitness, and wellness)

Spacesuits worn by Alan Shepard in 1971Stainless steel fabric with communication, life support, Radiation resistance and temperature control system.

e - T e x t i l e


September 8, 2014

• Information technology into wearable interfaces that integrate software, communication devices, surveillance systems and haptic sensors into the fabric form.

• Relay information via conductors, switches and sensors to exchange signals with remote systems via transistors and antenna.

The Philips Research: LumaliveThe Philips Research: Emotional sensing Diana Eng: Fairytale Collection 2010

September 8, 2014

H u s e i n C h a l a y a n - P a r i s Fa s h i o n We e k - S S 0 7

e - T e x t i l e


September 8, 2014

• Main technology: Weave, knit and embroidery with conductive yarns (clad or core conductive materials )

• Considerations to functions:

Scale of the system components (Ideally to the fiber size to be interwoven)Physical property and fastness (Light, wash, crock, perspiration fastness)

Challenge for fabrication printing on textiles

3 D P r i n t i n g


September 8, 2014

• Exploration of new form and structure• Need development of printable materials for wearable


How do you define Textile?

What is Textile Printing?

?September 8, 2014



Digital printing penetration in soft signage ($33B)

45%

1.2%September 8, 2014

O u t c o m e s

• A problem in the imaging industry

The industry has lack of understanding and communication among machine

manufactures, printing operations and application users including designers,

project leaders and end users.

• Requirement for a new way of system thinking

Design, engineering and business components in the industry have not been

properly integrated, partly because they have retrofitted their systems and

processes into preexisting workflows.

• Investigating Outside of Traditional Textile Printing Industry

Desktop printing: Off-Set vs. Digital Printing

Photography: Multi functional digital media and printing

Project based (Soft Signage) vs. Yardage based (Traditional Textile)

Trans- disciplinary trends: Beyond the boundaries of existing traditional disciplines.

September 8, 2014

I n t o t h e f u t u r e

- New Position and Concept of Textile Printing Industry -

• More Research

Compatible colorants to conventional vat dye applications

Penetration of colorants to the porous substrates (textile)

Color Gamut

Universal Ink (pigments / dyes)

Specialty printing (material deposition)

Hybrid color management (solid, tonal, photographic)

Speed of printing production

• Digital Printing Technologies emphasize:

Non Impact printing: Universal to colorants and substrates (porous / non

porous)

Digital Textile Printing is one of the most difficult printing systems

• Advancement of Technology and New Business Models

Printing and fabricating on non-traditional surfaces to increase opportunities

New design products with industrial digital printing (mid 2000 -)September 8, 2014

A New Eme rg i ng F i e l d o f Su r f a ce Imag i ng

Surface Imaging provides imagery for various physical forms using a

variety of digital printing technologies, including “direct surface

imaging” on porous and non-porous substrates as well as “fabrication

printing” of material deposition and subtraction printing technologies

(laser and 3D printing).

It is a trans-disciplinary field of discipline that moves beyond the

boundaries of existing traditional fields of disciplines.

• Surface Imaging will emphasize new concepts and approaches

toward the development of this new imaging industry.

• Surface Imaging does not adhere to the traditional boundaries of

a concentrated design discipline.

September 8, 2014

Poss ib i l i t i e s fo r New Produc t Deve lopment

Digital Non Impact Printing Technology

Direct Printing

Porous and Non Porous Substrates

UV, Latex, Eco solvent, Sublimation,

Aqueous dye / pigment

Digital Fabrication Printing Technology

Material Deposition

Relief Surface / 3D Modeling

Metals, Composites, Functional Materials

Subtraction Printing

Laser Printing

Analog and Digital Surface Imaging Design

Contained and Continuous Imaging

Drawings and Paintings

Raster and Vector Imaging

Photo Imaging

September 8, 2014

F r o m G r a p h i c S i g n a g e

September 8, 2014

T o D e c o r a t i v e E n v i r o n m e n t a l G r a p h i c s

( A r c h i t e c t u r a l S u b s t r a t e s , W o o d , G l a s s , L a m i n a t e s , F l o o r i n g , I n t e r i o r T e x t i l e s , e t c . )

September 8, 2014

D i g i t a l P r i n t i n g P e n e t r a t i o n

S o f t S i g n a g e ( 4 5 % ) - I n d u s t r i a l T e x t i l e ( 1 % )

September 8, 2014

September 8, 2014

Reva, GreenaerSurface Imaging by Ella Doran

September 8, 2014

September 8, 2014

M a s t e r s o f S c i e n c e i n S u r f a c e I m a g i n g P r o g r a ma t

P h i l a d e l p h i a U n i v e r s i t y

- Launch in Summer 2015

• The MS in Surface Imaging offers students the opportunity to develop imagery for various physical forms using a variety of latest digital printing technologies.

• Students will explore direct surface imaging on diverse porous and non-porous substrates. Fabrication printing, including material deposition and subtraction printing technologies (laser and 3D printing), will become an integral part of the program.

• The MS in Surface Imaging offers a trans-disciplinary approach to learning that moves beyond the boundaries of existing traditional academic fields.

• The curriculum combine design, engineering and business components in order to achieve creative, innovative and economic opportunities in a wide range of professional fields.

• The program supplements “Business Incubators” to encourage entrepreneurial approaches to the Surface Imaging fields.

Surface Imaging industry – 800 billion dollar market and over 10% CAGR in North America

September 8, 2014

The Cen t e r o f E x ce l l e n ce i n Su r f a ce Imag i nga t

Ph i l ade l ph i a Un i ve r s i t y

• To promote and improve imaging industry as a whole.

• To educate and provide information in neutral position.

• To conduct design / engineering / marketing research.

Research projects (design, technology, marketing)Proof-of-concept projectsTesting Production printing

• To conduct educational events.

• To serve printing service bureau

• To provide business incubator program (our graduates)

September 8, 2014

R e s e a r c h

• Design researchNew design styles New product application and production workflows“Smart Algorithm for Printed Textile Design”

• Marketing researchA Various Digital Textile Printing Marketing consultations and researches for private companies.

• Engineering research“Creation of Textile-Based Durable Printed Antenna Systems”“Encapsulated Ink for Digital Ink Jet Technology”“Integration of fabric formation and coloration processes“Universal Set of Dyes for Digital Inkjet Textile Printing”“Inkjet printing textile archives - Barnes Museum”, etc.

• Proof-of-concept projectsInkjet printing for Military Camouflage printing Inkjet printing narrow bandAutomotive polyester tubingChemical Impregnations, etc,

• Testing (Print performance, Line acuity, optical density, fastness, etc.)Various inks and substrates; Software.

• Production (samples to short runs)Scarves, ties, umbrellas, bags, T- shirts, yardages.

September 8, 2014

E d u c a t i o n

• Conferences and workshops

Digital Inkjet Printing 101 Conference (2002)

Digital Inkjet Printing Workshop (2003)

Designer Meets Technology (2004)

Digital Textile Design and Printing Workshop (2005)

Designer Meets Technology: Europe (2005)



Digital Textile Printing Workshop for Textile Conservators (2008)

Digital Surface Imaging and Printing for Textiles Workshop (2013)

Digital Surface Imaging and Printing for Textiles Workshop (2014)

September 8, 2014

• Cannon (Japan)

• Dupont Ink Jet (US)

• ErgoSoft (Switzerland)

• GA Technology Institute (US)

• Konica / Minolta (Japan)

• Lee Nicole (UK)

• Mimaki Industries (Japan)

• NC State University (US)

• Philadelphia University (US)

• Reggiani Macchine (Italy)

• Rohm and Haas (US)

• TC2 (US)

• U. Mass-Dartmouth (US)

• UMIST (UK)

• VCE Solutions (US)

September 8, 2014

September 8, 2014

E x h i b i t i o n - S u r f a c e I m a g i n g

Philadelphia Art Alliance:

Contemporary craft + design

251 South 18th Street,

Philadelphia PA 19103

Opening Reception

Thursday, September 11

6 - 8pm

E R O T I C A L C H E M Y : H e a t h e r U j i i e

September 8, 2014

W e d n e s d a y R o u n d t a b l e D i s c u s s i o n

Digital Printing on Textiles

Wednesday, September 10

3:45 - 5:15 PM

For more i n fo rmat ion

L iber ty Ba l l room A

digital textile printing status 2014 and emerging field of … · 2019-03-22 · digital printing...

Documents