richard's machine quilting frame plans...

6
Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBook Copyright © 2007 Chapter 7 Bars * Gears * Hand Knobs In this chapter we will deal with the bars that hold the quilt. This quilt frame was built using galvanized 1 ¼” EMT thin wall conduit. I have only found it to be available in 10 ft lengths. If you are planning on building a 12 foot frame the length of the bars need to be 12’ 1 ½” long. This will allow the bars to extend through the support arms and have something for the knobs to be fastened to. If you are building a 10 ft frame the bars will not need to be altered as long as they are 10 foot in length. The only way that I have found to extend the conduit is to butt weld them together. This method is not recommended however because galvanized steel emits toxic fumes when being welded. There are other ways to extend the conduit I am sure but I welded mine and then ground the welds down smooth. Another alternative to conduit is top rail for chain link fence. It comes in 21 ft lengths. How ever the outside diameter is different then the conduit and in all the steps involving drilling the arms, gears and knobs the drill bit will have to be changed to that particular outside diameter Mark a 2X4 down the center and drill it every 3 1/2”with a 1 ½” bit set at a depth of ¾”. Continue on to make 6 holes as shown www.buildaquiltingframe.com

Upload: others

Post on 21-Jun-2020

20 views

Category:

Documents


2 download

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookqfdl.weebly.com/uploads/1/6/0/6/1606085/chapter_7.pdfRichard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBook Copyright © 2007 Chapter 7 Bars * Gears

Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookCopyright © 2007

Chapter 7Bars * Gears * Hand Knobs

In this chapter we will deal with the bars that hold the quilt. This quilt frame was built using galvanized 1 ¼” EMT thin wall conduit. I have only found it to be available in 10 ft lengths. If you are planning on building a

12 foot frame the length of the bars need to be 12’ 1 ½” long. This will allow the bars to extend through the support arms and have something for the knobs to be fastened to. If you are building a 10 ft frame the bars

will not need to be altered as long as they are 10 foot in length. The only way that I have found to extend the conduit is to butt weld them together. This method is not recommended however because galvanized

steel emits toxic fumes when being welded. There are other ways to extend the conduit I am sure but I welded mine and then ground the welds

down smooth. Another alternative to conduit is top rail for chain link fence. It comes in 21 ft lengths. How ever the outside diameter is different then the conduit and in all the steps involving drilling the arms, gears and

knobs the drill bit will have to be changed to that particular outside diameter

Mark a 2X4 down the center and drill it every 3 1/2”with a 1 ½”

bit set at a depth of ¾”. Continue on to make 6 holes as

shown

www.buildaquiltingframe.com

Page 2: Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookqfdl.weebly.com/uploads/1/6/0/6/1606085/chapter_7.pdfRichard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBook Copyright © 2007 Chapter 7 Bars * Gears

Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookCopyright © 2007

Cut them apart as shown here

You can now make the blocks round or hexagon or leave

square if you desire

www.buildaquiltingframe.com

Page 3: Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookqfdl.weebly.com/uploads/1/6/0/6/1606085/chapter_7.pdfRichard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBook Copyright © 2007 Chapter 7 Bars * Gears

Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookCopyright © 2007

Sanding all rough edges is nice!

As you see here I used a treated 2X4 because that is what I had on hand. When it was stained it looked good in contrast to the rest of the

frame!

www.buildaquiltingframe.com

Page 4: Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookqfdl.weebly.com/uploads/1/6/0/6/1606085/chapter_7.pdfRichard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBook Copyright © 2007 Chapter 7 Bars * Gears

Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookCopyright © 2007

Mark the one end of each conduit at 1” then 1 ¾” then 2

½”. You can use one of the gears to trace the circle around

the bar.

www.buildaquiltingframe.com

Page 5: Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookqfdl.weebly.com/uploads/1/6/0/6/1606085/chapter_7.pdfRichard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBook Copyright © 2007 Chapter 7 Bars * Gears

Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookCopyright © 2007

I choose two part epoxy for attaching the gears and the

knobs. Start with a clean surface!

It is important to note that one gear goes clockwise as shown

here and the other two gears go counter clockwise! Epoxy the

three gears to the left end of all three conduits between the two

previously marked lines that are furthest inward on the bar. Then

epoxy the six knobs to both ends of all three conduits.

www.buildaquiltingframe.com

Page 6: Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookqfdl.weebly.com/uploads/1/6/0/6/1606085/chapter_7.pdfRichard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBook Copyright © 2007 Chapter 7 Bars * Gears

Richard's Machine Quilting Frame Plans eBookCopyright © 2007

Set the bars in the supports as shown then pre drill and fasten the locking cogs in place with a

deck screw as in the picture. Snug the screw but do not tighten

it so tight that the cog will not swivel. Note the third cog is

upside down but will lock into the gear when it is flipped down.

This machine is ready for the fabric leaders to be attached to the bars. We use pillow ticking. The speed control for the machine varies by

the make and model of each machine. I recommend getting a

Grace Speed Controller from www.sewvacdirect.com or getting a

set of Handi-Handles from www.handihandles.com

Please Visit Our Web Site Now For Instructions On Fastening Your Fabric Leaders!

www.buildaquiltingframe.com