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Home Defense

Picture Frame Plans

Version 1.0 How to build an 8” x 10” picture frame with a secret com-partment.

With easy to follow step-by-step instructions, you will be able to cut, assemble, and finish your very home de-fense picture frame Plan set preview: 26 pages 45 pictures Material list, cut list, and assembly instructions Material, hardware, and other supply sourcing

Workshop Addict Dewalt Organizer Plans Version 1.0

Workshop Addict Copyright 9/29/2016

Bill Of Materials (Does not include joinery supplies)

Material Quantity

8.5 x 10.5 (final size)

Plexi-Glass One

Building material

(Hardwood or softwood)

2-3

6” x 96” x 3/4” boards

Glue One bottle

Shellac One rattle can

8.5 x 10.5 (final size)

Hardboard One

Picture frame points

(to keep picture components in frame) 10 points total



Cut List Part Quantity Dimensions

Frame

Rail 2

8” long x 1.5” wide x .75”

thick

Frame

Stile 2

13” long x 1.5” wide x .75”

thick

Carcass

Rail 2

9.5” long x 2” wide x .75”

thick

Carcass

Stile 2

13” long x 2” wide x .75”

thick

Back Panel 1 12.25” long x 10.25 wide

x .25 thick

Plexi-Glass 1 10.75” long x 8.75” wide x

1/8” thick

Hardboard 1 10.75” long x 8.75” wide x

1/8” thick



Step 1: Determine your joinery method

We demonstrated using our Festool Domino when we completed

our Home Defense Picture Frame. There are a variety of joinery

methods that can be substituted for the domino. These joinery

methods may or may not require modification to the cut list dimen-

sions. The cut list dimensions will be suitable for any joinery loose

tenon joinery method.

Suitable joinery options (loose tenon options noted with an “*”)

Festool Domino*

Rockler Beadlock*

Dowels*

Traditional Mortise and Tenon (must modify the cut list)

Loose tenon joinery (router and shop made stock)*

Festool Domino:

It is a very expensive tool that is a one trick pony but as eve-

ryone always says, time is money. The Festool Domino saves

you an enormous amount of time, especially on projects with

a considerable amount of joinery needed.



Frame thickness note:

If you are starting from pre-milled stock, you will need to be extra

careful to make sure they are aligned when assembled. If you are

starting with rough milled stock, leave the frame thickness to 7/8”

to allow to be ran through the drum sander or hand planning to get

them perfectly flush.

Step 2: Cut all your parts to size

For explanation purposes, the frame will be identified as exactly

that, the “frame”. The box that creates the hidden compartment will

be identified as the “carcass”.

Cut all the parts for both the frame and the carcass. Rip them to

width at the table saw and then cut them to length with a crosscut

sled at the table saw or at the miter saw.



Step 3: Complete your joinery

Complete your joinery that you have selected at the beginning of

the project. The frame joinery is completed on the material thick-

ness dimension and the carcass joinery is completed on the width

dimension.

Joinery:

This is a picture frame and doesn’t need to be extremely strong.

The Domino was used for convenience and we had it available in

the shop. In addition to using Dominos for loose tenon joinery, we

are also using them for alignment. The moveable parts will register

with the aid of the Dominos. As mentioned earlier, other joinery se-

lection is completely acceptable.



Step 4: Mill a groove for the back panel

The back panel needs a groove to slide in. This sliding mechanism

will allow one side of the frame to open and close allowing the user

to access the hidden compartment and also change the picture.

Stopped grooves are needed in two (2) of the four (2) carcass piec-

es or they will show on the side of the piece. It is highly recom-

mended to mill this groove on the router table as it is much safer to

create the stopped dados.

The groove is 1/4” wide and 1/4” deep. Create the through grooves

first and assemble the frame. Mark where the groove ends on the

other two pieces. These marks will show you where you need to

stop.



Step 5: Apply some glue and assembly

Apply regular wood glue to all four joints on the frame and apply

light clamping pressure and set aside for at least two (2) hours to

dry.

Apply regular wood glue to ONLY two (2) joints on the carcass. If

glue is applied to all four joints, the carcass will be solid and you will

lose your secret compartment.

Clean up the glue from inside the frame and the carcass groove.

GLUE THEM UP SEPERATELY.



Step 5: Mill the rabbit in the frame

The rabbit in the frame will allow the Plexi-glass, picture, and back-

ing to sit recessed in the frame. This will allow more room in the

hidden compartment.

We made the rabbit at the router table with a rabbiting bit.

The rabbiting bit created a rabbit that was 3/8” x 3/8”.

When using a rabbiting bit that needs to clear that much material,

you need to take it in a few passes. The first pass is very light to

help prevent tear out on the faces, the second pass takes a bit

more material, while the third pass clears the remaining material

away.

Cutting the corners:

Don’t rush when cutting the rabbits at the router table, take

your time to help increase the quality of cut and prevent any

injuries or kickback.


Workshop Addict Copyright 9/29/2016 Page

Step 6: Address the rabbit corners

You can leave them with a radius or chisel them square. We are us-

ing Plexi-glass so we can easily sand the corners to fit. If you are

going to use actual glass (don’t recommend it), you won’t be able to

easily sand and may want to chisel the corners square.

Clamp frame to your work surface.

Start with a large chisel and estab-

lish the edge of your corner with a

couple light taps.

Starting from inside and working

your way towards your newly es-

tablished edge, slowly chisel away

the material.

As you get closer to your edge, pay

attention to keeping your chisel

plum.

Once you are one or two chisel

strokes away from your edge, you

can now place your chisel in your

line and make your final pass.



Step 7: Join the frame and the carcass

The frame and the carcass can now be joined together.

Apply masking or packing tape to the moveable carcass parts. This

will prevent it from accidentally being glued to the frame.

Apply a light amount of glue to the carcass, while keeping glue

away from the movable joint.

We used two (2) 23-gauge pin nails to keep the frame from shifting

while applying clamping pressure. If you do not have access to a

pin nailer, take your time when clamping and shifting the parts in

place. You can also use a couple shakes of salt. That will help keep

the parts from shifting.

Apply clamping pressure on the glued faces.



Step 8: Mill the back panel

We have waited to mill the back panel for a few reasons. First, we

want to use the actual workpiece to determine the measurements.

Second, we want to make sure the actual workpiece is square. If it

isn’t, these adjustments can be made to the back panel for a per-

fect fit.

We re-sawed some ambrosia maple on the bandsaw and then

glued up a panel. It is much easier if you have the ability to pur-

chase lumber (pre-milled or rough cut) that is full width.

VERY IMPORTANT: Grain direction should allow expansion to-

wards the moveable faces.



Step 9: Install back panel and glue on carcass piece

Slide in the back panel and apply glue in the groove of the movable

carcass piece. Keep the glue to “just enough to get the job done”

and avoid the ends.

Install the moveable carcass piece and apply light clamping pres-

sure and allow at least two (2) hours to dry.



Step 10: Sand smooth and ease edges

Sand the entire project smooth with whatever sanding methods that

are available to you. Sand up to 180 grit.

While you are at it, using some 180 grit paper, ease all the edges to

make the project enjoyable to touch and handle.

Step 11: Apply the finish

Apply your desired finish.

We picked semi-gloss shellac. It is fast drying and available in a rat-

tle can (spray paint can).

Sand in between coats and apply as many coats as your finish de-

sires.



Step 12: Hidden compartment details

Depending on what you are going to store in your hidden compart-

ment, there may be some things you can do to make it easy to

store, organize, and access them.

In the frames we build, we plan on concealing handguns in them.

For this, we are going to use Kaizen foam. For more information on

Kaizen foam, please visit www.fastcap.com and search for Kaizen

foam.

We traced our handgun with Fastcap’s long nose pen and cut it out

with their new slim razor knife.

Spray adhesive was

then applied and

pressed to the back

panel.

ORIENTATION NOTE:

Imagine you need to access the hidden compartment in a timely fashion

(home invasion), you want to be able to open the frame and grab the

gun in a swift motion. You want the orientation of the handgun and foam

to make this easier.



Step 13: Install your picture

Cut your Plexi-glass, picture, and hardboard to the rabbit dimen-

sions. Install them and using picture frame points to keep them se-

cure.

Step 14: Place in your home or office

Place on nearly any horizontal surface and enjoy your picture all

while enjoying the comfort knowing protecting your family and

home are within an arms reach.

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