monitoring & predicting ca waves & sand migration overview of cdip a new monitoring-based...
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Monitoring & PredictingCA Waves & Sand Migration
• Overview of CDIP
• A New Monitoring-Based Approach to Predicting Beach Change
• The CDIP Wave & Sand MOnitoring & Prediction (MOP) System
• CDIP MOP Program Goals & Synergies01
CDIP Mission
• Based at SIO since 1975.
• 30+ Wave Stations• 170km Beach Monitoring (Mexican Border – Long Beach)
• 14 People
• $2.5M+ / year budget
• Funded by:
USACE CDBW CA CC ONR NSF NOAA BEACON
Monitor and Predict Coastal Waves and Beach Change
CCOASTALOASTAL DDATAATA IINFORMATIONNFORMATION PPROGRAMROGRAM
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Datawell Directional Waverider
CDIP Wave Monitoring
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CDIP Sand Monitoring
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RSM(Coastal Evolution w/
Climate Change)
Sediment Transport Prediction
Sand: ATV Surveys
Sand: LIDAR Surveys
Beach Safety (rips)
Pathogen Transport (beach closures)
Inundation
Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction
Waves: PUVs
Sand: Jetski Surveys
Beach Safety
Coastal Engineering and Planning
Nearshore Wave Prediction
Waves: Directional Buoys
Waves: PUVs
Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction
Waves: Directional Buoys
Observations Models Applications
SIO Waves & Beaches CDIP Waves & Sand
Islands
Shelf
Surf
Beach
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RSM(Coastal Evolution w/
Climate Change)
Sediment Transport Prediction
Sand: ATV Surveys
Sand: LIDAR Surveys
Beach Safety (rips)
Pathogen Transport (beach closures)
Inundation
Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction
Waves: PUVs
Sand: Jetski Surveys
Beach Safety
Coastal Engineering and Planning
Nearshore Wave Prediction
Waves: Directional Buoys
Waves: PUVs
Marine Navigation Regional Wave
Prediction
Waves: Directional Buoys
Observations Models Applications
Information Flow
Surf
Beach
Islands
Shelf
CDIP Waves & Sand
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CurrentsCurrents -Surface (6km)-Surface (6km)
WavesWaves -San Pedro Buoy-San Pedro Buoy -Prediction Points-Prediction Points -Swell Model-Swell Model
NOAA ChartsNOAA Charts
Shipping LanesShipping Lanes
Port of Los Angeles/Long Beach –Customized Website integrates CDIP Waves and SCCOOS HF Radar Surface Currents
Wave Forecast
http://sccoos.ucsd.edu/themes/harbors 08
RSM(Coastal Evolution w/
Climate Change)
Sediment Transport Prediction
Sand: ATV Surveys
Sand: LIDAR Surveys
Beach Safety (rips)
Pathogen Transport (beach closures)
Inundation
Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction
Waves: PUVs
Sand: Jetski Surveys
Beach Safety
Coastal Engineering and Planning
Nearshore Wave Prediction
Waves: Directional Buoys
Waves: PUVs
Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction
Waves: Directional Buoys
Observations Models Applications
Information Flow
Surf
Beach
Islands
Shelf
CDIP Waves & Sand
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Huntington Beach Wave Buoy
Local Seas
Monitoring-Based Nearshore Sea & Swell Predictions
Distant Swells
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RSM(Coastal Evolution w/
Climate Change)
Sediment Transport Prediction
Sand: ATV Surveys
Sand: LIDAR Surveys
Beach Safety (rips)
Pathogen Transport (beach closures)
Inundation
Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction
Waves: PUVs
Sand: Jetski Surveys
Beach Safety
Coastal Engineering and Planning
Nearshore Wave Prediction
Waves: Directional Buoys
Waves: PUVs
Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction
Waves: Directional Buoys
Observations Models Applications
Information Flow
Surf
Beach
Islands
Shelf
CDIP Waves & Sand
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South Swell
West Swell
Local Seas
Santa Ana River
AlongshoreCurrent ?
Huntington State Beach 2006 Nearshore Circulation Experiment
Huntington Beach Pier
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Huntington State Beach Mean Alongshore Current Prediction
Northward Current
Southward Current
Flow Reversal
Sep-Oct 2006
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RSM(Coastal Evolution w/
Climate Change)
Sediment Transport Prediction
Sand: ATV Surveys
Sand: LIDAR Surveys
Beach Safety (rips)
Pathogen Transport (beach closures)
Inundation
Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction
Waves & Currents: PUVs
Sand: Jetski Surveys
Beach Safety
Coastal Engineering and Planning
Nearshore Wave Prediction
Waves: Directional Buoys
Waves: PUVs
Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction
Waves: Directional Buoys
Observations Models Applications
Information Flow
Islands
Shelf
Surf
Beach
CDIP Waves & Sand
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• Beach response to waves varies greatly throughout the SCBPS region.
• How a specificspecific beach responds to waves can be surprisingly well predicted by simple models “tuned” with detaileddetailed monitoring data.
• Numerous wave-driven subcells exist within the Oceanside littoral cell.
6 Years of ConcurrentWave & Sand Monitoring
Preliminary Findings
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Torrey Pines : Monitoring-based Beach Change Predictions
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Oceanside Littoral Cell: The “River of Sand”
Wave-DrivenNet SouthwardSand Transport
Sand Leaves Cell at Scripps Submarine Canyon
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CDIP Buoys
Wave Climate : Oceanside Littoral Cell
Alongshore Wave Climate Reconstruction
Incident waves
Cross-shore Component
Alongshore Component
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Wave-driven Lagoon Sub-Cells
Batiquitos Sub-Cell
Moonlight Sub-Cell
San Elijo Sub-Cell
Fletcher Sub-Cell
San Diegito Sub-Cell
Penesquitos Sub-Cell
Torrey Pines Sub-Cell
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Coastal Lagoon
Coastal Lagoon
Sand Borrow Sites
Ocean
Ocean
Ocean
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m d
ep
th c
on
tou
r
COASTAL LAGOON LITTORAL SUB-CELLS
Potential downcoast sand transport increases betweenLagoons.
Naturally sand-deprived section ofcoast along base of cliffs betweenLagoons.
Natural Wave Erosion Hot Spot. + Net Offshore Sand Transport0 Net Alongshore Transport
Sand Borrow Sites
Wave-driven transport slows near lagoon entrance
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m
more sand
lesssand
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CDIP Waves and Sand
MOnitoring & Prediction (MOP) System
Wave Monitoring
Wave Buoy NetworkNOAA WW3 Forecasts
Surfzone Monitoring
Current Measurements Dye/Drifter Tracking Jetski Sand level Surveys
Beach Modeling
Beach width changeInundation levels
Coastal Wave Modeling
Breaking wave heightsRadiation stresses (Sxx,Sxy)
Beach Monitoring
LIDARATV Sand level surveys
Surfzone Modeling
Current Direction & SpeedBottom Velocities
Public
Access
To Core
Coastal
Environment
Variables
Via
“MOP Sites”
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The CA coastline is divided into a contiguous set of MOP Polygons.
Polygon IDentifierbased on County
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Each MOP Transect is bounded by a MOP Nearshore Site and a MOP Backbeach Site.
Backbeach Site ~100m alongshore spacing
Nearshore Site (10m Depth)
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Online Access To MOP Wave Information
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CA Counties with Operational MOP Wave Information
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Predicted surfzone averaged alongshore currentsare provided at each transect on a relatively straight beach without obstructions. A seasonalcross-shore bathymetry profile is assumed if thereis no recent survey data.
MOP Alongshore Currents
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MOP Coastal Inundation
Predicted Inundation Elevations will be providedfor transects with simpleshoreline profiles
Known elevation that results inparking lot flooding at this location
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Each MOP Polygon will contain a set of MOP Sandboxes.NEXT: MOPS & RSM
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MOP Program Goals
• SustainableSustainable State-wide Monitoring and
Prediction of Coastal Waves & Sand Migration.
• ExpandedExpanded support of fundamental research using MOP monitoring data.
• Formal Formal and and RoutineRoutine communication with communication with
coastal engineers and decision-makers.
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MOPping UP
• 2 Years of seed money from CDBW San Diego County MOP-RSM Demonstration Project
• New Cooperative Agreement with USGS Southern California Coastal Hazards Project
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MOP-RSM Synergies
• MONITORING :USGS & NPS : Nearshore Sand Survey Teams
• PREDICTION :MOP-RSM Climate Change Initiatives?
• POLICYCALOST : science-to-policy success story?OPC: Tri-State Collaboration?
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Tri-StateTri-State CollaborationCollaboration WA, OR, CAWA, OR, CACDIP has wave buoys at the entrance to allCDIP has wave buoys at the entrance to allthe major west coast ports except the the major west coast ports except the Columbia River/PortlandColumbia River/Portland
• USACEUSACE• dredging and shoreline managementdredging and shoreline management
•NOAA & NWSNOAA & NWS
• website disseminationwebsite dissemination• marine broadcast on NOAA marine broadcast on NOAA weather channelweather channel
• USGS & Dept. of Ecology (WA)USGS & Dept. of Ecology (WA)• shoreline change and erosionshoreline change and erosion
• Maritime TransportationMaritime Transportation• interstate commerceinterstate commerce
• Ocean Observing Systems Ocean Observing Systems • SCCOOS, CENCOOS, NANOOSSCCOOS, CENCOOS, NANOOS
Coos Bay
Gray’s Harbor
Humboldt Bay
San Francisco
LA/LB
San Diego
Port Hueneme
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