merck chemicals - cos magazine 2.09

8/8/2019 Merck Chemicals - COS Magazine 2.09

1/16

Color ForecastA frst look at Autumn/Winter 10/11

Where service and

expertise intersectA new center, a new kit

and applications galore

Wanted: youthul-looking skin

New products to keep complexions glowing

magazinecos2.09

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2/16

02 / From the editors & what s ins ide cosmagazine@merck .de

Dr. Matthias Lergenmller, let

and Dr. Hansjrgen Driller, right.

Dear cosmetics proessionals,

Welcome to the latest issue o COSmagazine! We hope you fnd it ull o inspiration

and insight.

Along with our Color Forecast, this issue explores the ever-popular concern o skin thatlooks young. Youll also fnd a related special report on application technology and dis-

cover whats in our unctional fllers and application kits or you. And o course, we have

plenty o news or you not just at Merck, but regulatory aairs too.

You may notice that many more websites are eatured in this issue. These links make it

easier or you to fnd the inormation you need online. Naturally, youre also welcome to

contact your local sales representative should you have any questions about the products

and services you see here.

Do you have a topic youd like to see covered in the next issue? Tell our editorial team

about it at [email protected]

Sincerely,

Dr. Hansjrgen Driller

Director Global Business Cosmetic Actives

Dr. Matthias Lergenmller

Director Global Business Pigments or Cosmetics

02 FROM THE EDITORS &WHATS INSIDE

Your guide to this edition o COSmagazine.

03 MERCK NEWSLearn how our new peptide, pigment, and updated CD beneft you.

04 SPECIAL REPORT:YOUTHFUL-LOOKING SKINThe glow o youth desirable at any age. We examine how to

keep skin looking younger, longer.

07 MERCK ON THE CASE

The latest developments in REACH, NaTrue, and EU regulation.

08 COLOR FORECASTA summary o color choices and trends or Autumn/Winter 10/11.

10 SPECIAL REPORT:CHILDRENS SKINSkin thats young in years needs special care.

12 SPECIAL REPORT:ENTER A WORLD OF OPPORTUNITY

A compact tour o our Cosmetic Technology Center,a new kit, and unctional fllers.

16 EXCLUSIVES & EVENTSAn introduction to our Simply Pink! kit plus a schedule

o upcoming events.


3/16

Merck news / 03www.merck4cosmetics .com

THE LATEST SHAPE IN ANTI-AGING

RINGING IN A UNIQUE BREAKTHROUGHPEPTIDE: RONACARE CYCLOPEPTIDE-5

HOW RONACARE CYCLOPEPTIDE-5 IS DIFFERENT

Merck is delighted to announce RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5,

the frst homodetic cyclic biomimetic peptide or cosmetic

applications. Thinking o peptides as keys and skin cell surace

receptors as locks helps explain what makes RonaCare

Cyclopeptide-5 such a design breakthrough: its cyclic structure.

It represents the ideal key or particular skin cells surace

receptors. Providing the best ft in the lock-and-key model,

this revolutionary peptide delivers high selectivity to the

biological target site. Equipped with the outstanding edge o

RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5, you can create cosmetic products

that work with the ultimate in precision. Welcome to a new

dimension in eective anti-aging.

Whats more, RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5 is the frst cyclic peptide

known to cosmetics in which all o the covalent linkages between

the amino acids are natural peptide bonds (ie, homodetic).

HOW RONACARE CYCLOPEPTIDE-5 WORKS

As skin ages, it undergoes three main physiological changes.

The epidermis thins and dermal compacting diminishes. Skin

also loses the distinctive wave structure typical o the dermo-

epidermal-junction (DEJ). Enter RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5.

It counteracts the aging process by mimicking natural processes

o skin communication and repair. Skin turns more elastic and

frmer and appears to have ewer wrinkles.

Learn more about the benefts o the unique RonaCareCyclopeptide-5 at

www.merck4cosmetics.com/RonaCareCyclopeptide-5

And i youd like to use the RonaCarebrand name on your packaging, write to us

at [email protected]

THE ALLURE OF COLOR TRAVEL

Xirona Moonlight Sparks

A luminous moonlight glow that casts a mysterious spell:

rom subtle silver to gorgeous gold, dotted with the sparkle

o the nights stars throughout. Welcome to Xirona

Moonlight Sparks, a brand-new cosmetic pigment rom

Merck. Inspired by the moons golden and silver shimmer

in the night sky, XironaMoonlight Sparks is the only pigment on the market that

helps you create such subtle yet striking color travel and make the competition glow

with envy. The secret: very thin, smooth, and uniorm calcium aluminum borosilicate

platelets encapsulated by metal oxide layers.

Transparent & versatile

With XironaMoonlight Sparks, you can highlight cosmetic ormulas without

changing the ormulations base color the pigment is that transparent. Whats more,

a little goes a long way in recreating the moons color travel plus exceptional glitter.

No limitations on use level have been placed on XironaMoonlight Sparks, so dont

hold back when it comes to creativity! XironaMoonlight Sparks is suited or all

cosmetics applications rom decorative products such as color cosmetics to

indulgent personal care products such as shower gels.

XironaMoonlight Sparks is approved or use around the world. I youd like your products

to cast a spell, order a complimentary sample rom your local sales representative today.

Visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/XironaMoonlight Sparks or more details.

UPDATED CD OFFERS EVEN MORE

RECIPES FOR SUCCESS

Looking to help revitalize your cosmetic ormulas with

pigments? Our popular Recipes or Success collection

available as a CD since last year is packed with updates.

The 2009 CD edition contains ormulation examples and

extra inormation or color cosmetics and personal care

now also including sun care and mens products. Users

will also fnd materials on new kinds o applications plus

a wide range o basic ormulas and innovative ideas or

using pigments. As an added bonus,

the updated CD contains our general

application guidelines or

emulsions, rinse-o products,

and much more.

Ask your local sales

representative or more

inormation, or get in

touch with your Merck

contact to order the

Recipes or Success CD

directly.


4/16

04 / Specia l report : youthul- looking sk in cosmagazine@merck .de

T H E T I M E L E S S A P P E A L O F

YOUTHFUL-LOOKING SKIN

When Queen Elizabeth I ruled sixteenth-century England, she used white lead paint to keep her

complexion looking youthul. Although todays cosmetics made the switch to skin-riendly

ingredients a long time ago, were still attracted to skin that appears to be in its prime. The latest

help in our quest or youthul-looking skin: breakthrough unctional fllers and innovative flters.


5/16

Specia l report : youthul- looking sk in / 05www.merck4cosmetics .com

YOUTHFUL-LOOKING SKIN NEVER GOES

OUT OF STYLECosmetics has made amazing advances in helping skin glow and appear young.

Whats more, skin that looks like this is desired by people at every stage o their lives.

So cosmetics proessionals have that many more reasons to create and take advantage o

solutions that help us look the way we want.

CAN WE DEFINE THE YOUTHFUL LOOK?In tangible terms, there are three traits common to skin that appears young. The frst:

a smooth complexion. Second: youll also notice that youthul-looking skin is almost

completely ree o shine. And the third characteristic? Skin looks younger when it diuses

light, resulting in a resh, appealing glow. Accomplishing all three with your products

may sound like a tall order but you dont have to tackle the challenge alone.

ANSWERS FROM EVERY ANGLEAt Merck, weve developed a range o unctional fllers and flters to help skin retain its

youthul radiance. Our latest unctional fllers now grouped under the uniorm brand

o RonaFlair are designed to minimize shine and help skin look its best.Well explore each one. And although you may be amiliar with our UV pearls,

we caught up with Sabine Hitzel here at Merck to fnd out why

UV protection is an essential part o young-looking skin.

RonaFlairSotshade

A FILLER TO BALANCE SKIN TONE

A pure white iller, RonaFlair Sotshade contains no intererence

eects. Although the skins tone remains unchanged, RonaFlair

Sotshade helps skin look matte and in perect balance.

THE IMPROVEMENT. Thanks to a small particle size and a unique

surace structure, this iller delivers a very satisying compromise

between coverage and transparency. RonaFlair Sotshade is

lexible enough to allow endless color combinations without

dramatically impacting the products inal shade.

THE YOUTHFUL GLOW.As the particles have a slightly rough surace,

the fller diuses light. This is known in the industry as the sot ocus

eect.

This means skin looks more even and natural, complexions smoother.

THE DIFFERENCE. RonaFlair Sotshade combines unique

properties to stand out rom other illers. Its matte inish helps

skin glow without the shine. Its transparent, yet oers just the

right coverage. And it glides on beautiully.

RonaFlair Sotshade is perect or make-up especially in

concealers and selected applications in personal care. Ask your

local sales representative to learn more. Flip to our special

section on application technology or urther details, too.

Discover RonaFlairSotshade at www.merck4cosmetics.com/

RonaFlairsotshade


6/16

06 / Specia l report : youthul- looking sk in cosmagazine@merck .de

YOUTHFUL SKIN IS SKIN THATS SHIELDED FROM THE SUNAN INTERVIEW WITH SABINE HITZEL, TECHNICAL MANAGER AT MERCK

COSmagazine:What makes Mercks Eusolex UV-Pearls such a

good choice or daily skincare that helps keep skin looking

young?

Hitzel:These flters screen out UV radiation at its frst point ocontact the outermost part o skin! So you shouldnt go a day

without protection, even i you have sensitive skin. Our Eusolex

UV-Pearls are actually UV flters encased in sol-gel silica this

reduces and can even prevent the chance o active ingredients

coming into direct contact with skin.

COSmagazine:In other words, the chemistry underlying UV

protection doesnt make your skin eel uncomortable.

Hitzel:Thats right. Eusolex UV-Pearls oer protection rom

the sun with a no-uss flter. Our Eusolex UV-Pearls B-O in

daily skincare products can ward o UVB rays as well as

hazardous UVA radiation that can penetrate glass windows and

clothing. Whats more, Eusolex UV-Pearls is an ingredient

with a demonstrated, excellent sensory profle compared to

non-encapsulated UV flters.

COSmagazine:Tell us about the role that RonaCare AP plays in

youthul-looking skin.

Hitzel:RonaCare AP is the perect complement to our UV pearls.

An incredibly efcient and remarkably stable antioxidant, it

orms the second line o deense in preventing UV damage.

COSmagazine: RonaCare AP is a cosmetic oil. How does it work?

Hitzel:As a three-phase mechanism and it has incredible

staying power. While RonaCare AP dims oxidative stress, it

builds up protection. At the same time, it prevents additionalreactive species rom orming. RonaCare AP is at work even

ater the suns sets. The ewer ree radicals that aect your skin,

the better your skins chances are at looking younger, longer.

COSmagazine: Can you give us an update on Mercks boost in

Eusolex UV Pearls production?

Hitzel: Production is up and running, and were excited to

announce that we now oer not only a variety o UV flters

but plenty o preservative systems in aqueous suspensions, too,

such as phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, and EDTA. We can also

accommodate regional dierences. No matter where you are in

the world, well fnd the right system or your UV flter.

For urther inormation and ormulation examples or RonaCareAP

and EusolexUV-Pearls, visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/AP

and www.merck4cosmetics.com/UVPearls

SABINE HITZEL,TECHNICAL MANAGER AT MERCK

RonaFlair Balance Colors

MATTE MEETS FRESH COLOR

RonaFlair Balance Red, RonaFlair Balance Blue, and RonaFlair

Balance Gold represent a quantum leap in cosmetics these brand-new

illers combine mattiying and intererence eects that can be used as skin

tone correctors.

THE IMPROVEMENT. Until now, all other manuacturers have provided

shiny intererence pigments or use in skin corrector products such as ace

lotions. This creates shine not always a welcome appearance when ap-

plying products on the ace. RonaFlair Balance Colors avoid this problem

entirely by relying on matte intererence eects.

THE YOUTHFUL GLOW.These illers relect light, so skin appears radiant

and resh.

THE DIFFERENCE. No other fller on the market

oers this combination o matte intererence,

transparency, excellent color strength, and outstanding skin eel

o RonaFlair Balance Colors. RonaFlair Balance Red, RonaFlair

Balance Blue, and RonaFlair Balance Gold are ideally suited or ace powders,

oundations, and ace care products. You can also use them individually or

blend them to match any skin tone in the world. Other uses: alter unwanted

or natural skin tones in any direction and conceal skin imperections. For

urther inormation, ask your local sales representative and dont miss our

special eature on applications with our new fllers!

Visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/RonaFlairbalance or essential inormation

on RonaFlair Balance Colors.


7/16

Legal news / 07www.merck4cosmetics .com

Always at the oreront o regulatory

aairs, Merck would like to alert its

customers to a new EU cosmetic regulation

on the horizon. Passed by the European

Parliament in March, this regulation willsoon go into eect. Our goal: to make sure

your products comply with the latest

requirements. Here is some initial inorma-

tion regarding:

CLEAR TERMS AND INFORMATION

Individual terms such as nanomaterials are clearly

defned.

Product inormation, product saety, and evidence o

product claims must adhere to strict guidelines

(publication orthcoming).

Technical details such as GMP or analytical methods

must reer to ISO standards.

AN EU-WIDE DATABASE

Existing national cosmetic databases will be merged

into an exhaustive database o products and materials.

EXISTING MATERIALS AND ADVERTISING

Existing nanomaterials must be listed as nano on

labels.

Product claims must meet criteria set by the

EU Commission.

Should you have any speciic questions about how this impending

regulation could impact your Merck products, please contact us

directly at [email protected]

TAKING THE LEADUNDER REACHMerck has once again moved ahead o the crowd in bringing our

materials in line with new regulations. Acting as lead registrant,

we have registered our frst ingredient dihydroxyacetone (DHA)

under the EUs REACH regulation.

As well as handling the bureaucracy or our customers, were

actively involved in consortia that aim to optimize and accelerate

registration procedures in numerous areas, such as UV flters.

Further confrmation o our work comes rom the regulatory aairs

authority: Merck KGaA is well prepared and successully proceeds

in taking the lead to register DHA under REACH. The necessary

toxicological studies required or the REACH registration have been

perormed well in advance. Thereore, DHA rom Merck can be

considered as uture-proo with respect to European regulatory

compliance and product saety.

Products already registered under the existing ELINCS legislation

only have to be registered under REACH ater surpassing the

projected volume.

Learn more on how Merck can support you with REACH at

www.merck4cosmetics.com/reach

MAKING HEADWAY WITH NATRUE AND ECOCERT

Merck has good news or those capitalizing on the natural trend.

Nearly 95% o the pigments and fllers in our portolio ulfll

NaTrue criteria.

A number o Merck active ingredients also meet NaTrue and EcoCert

requirements. Ask your local sales representative or inormation.

Although both organizations defne their own standards, products

that bear the EcoCert or NaTrue label do not need to have 100% o

their ingredients certifed. To learn more about how Merck can

assist you with eco-labels, contact us at [email protected]

A NEW COSMETICS REGULATION: YOUR ADVANCE NOTICE


8/16

08 / Color Forecast cosmagazine@merck .de

Portraits: Luis Huber, make-up artist Munich

Color Forecast Autumn/Winter 10/11

World in Flux 2010/2011The Merck Chemicals Color Forecast always right on time, right on trend. The Autumn/Winter 10/11 season is a response

to todays complex, interconnected, and ultimately uncontrollable world. Two distinct reactions in ashion and beautyemerge as a way o looking at contemporary society: a return to small-scale and a push or renewed energy.

DREAMSCAPEDREAMSCAPEplays with the sensational and simple to surprise, impress,

and intrigue at every turn. This twoold romantic beauty is sweet and sot

by day almost angelic and turns moodier and gothic-like when the

sun sets. Fresh, easy looks are marked by delicate rainbow accents and

powdery contours or a subtle glow. Sophisticated evening styles turn

to smoky eyes and precious touches. Whether day or night, the overall

look remains toned down.

DISTINCTIVE FEATUREThe palette eatures a somber and moody range

o inky shades punctuated by dusty pastels and tangy brights winters

new foral tones.

DARING CHICDARING CHIC is sel-condent, alluring, and outgoing all in one.

Mixing bold couture styles with bohemian accessories, these looks

speak to high drama and eminine sensibilities. Daytime looks

stay light and eminine, but bolder colors and jump make-up

are called or when its time to hit the town at night. Loud colors

and innovative patterns adorn eyelids and nails. Complexions

with healthy glows also eature color on temples and cheeks to

sculpt eatures and turn heads.

DISTINCTIVE FEATUREGolden tones mix with bright, dense accents

and colored metallic shades. Kohl returns sparkling and in color. Lips are

glossy, whether nude or coated with color.


9/16

Color Forecast / 09www.merck4cosmetics .com

Transmission strongly expresses a down-to-earth need or reassurance, harmony, and comort as well as the aspiration

or a world that unctions on a more human scale. The retro undercurrents o Dreamscape and 4th Dimension alsospeak to this outlook. With the world beleaguered by a number o crises, Daring Chic and its optimism exempliy the

call or renewed energy, imagination, and creativity.

4th DIMENSION4th DIMENSIONis the intellectual in the crowd, careully blending

classicism and experimentation, retro and uturistic. Looks ocus

on one bold graphic eect l ike brows or lips and oten exhibit

a bizarre, otherworldly quality. The mood is neutral and low-key,

playing with white and powdery complexions and silver, subtle,

and graphic gradations. Jump make-up lends a supernatural touch,

and grays are the mainstay o nude looks.

DISTINCTIVE FEATURENeutral tones, elted grays, mercury, char-

coal, all the way to navy blue concrete and beige soten and add

warmth. Pearl, mauve, and jade accents create an impact.

TRANSMISSIONTRANSMISSION is chic and perectly groomed, a refection o an

active proessional and busy social lie. Natural beauty plays with

light and shade, taking center stage thanks to the secrets o

make-up artists. Warm glows rely on powdery smooth complexions

decked in rich beiges and voluptuous browns, smoky chocolates, and

grays. The nude look turns sophisticated with colorless glossy eects

on lids or straight caramel rom eyes to nails to lips.

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE The warm palette o caramel beiges, browns, and

khakis is subtly accented with coral pink and luminous red. Nuanced cherry,

raspberry, and gray-tinged pinks heighten the looks elegance.

For the ull Color Forecast, head to www.merck4cosmetics.com/CF1011


10/16

10 / Specia l report : chi ldren s sk in cosmagazine@merck .de

EusolexUV-Pearls and RonaCareAP

NO-FUSS SUN CARE

A childs epidermis is substantially thinner than that o an adult

and has ewer protective mechanisms. Whats more, a childs skin

tends to dehydrate more quickly. So is exposure to the sun putting

young skin at risk? Not with EusolexUV-Pearls and RonaCareAP

rom Merck.

EusolexUV-Pearls

These UV flters are entrapped in sol-gel silica, so they reduce

even avoid direct flter contact with the skin. This is good news

or young and sensitive skin. Whats more, our EusolexUV-Pearlsare easy to use in sun care products. Since the flters can be

deployed in the aqueous phase, products dont turn sticky or

greasy and protected skin eels comortable or hours.

RonaCareAP

This transparent cosmetic oil is a highly stable antioxidant and

neutralizes ree radicals, continuing to work long ater the sun has

set. It also protects components o the sebum rom oxidation.

RonaCareAP is the perect complement to EusolexUV-Pearls

thats why we call it the second line o deense or protection

against the sun.

When used together, Eusolex

UV-Pearls and RonaCareAP

provide excellent protection

rom the damaging eects o

the sun or any kind o skin

including young and sensitive

skin.

Visit www.merck4cosmetics.

com/UVPearls and www.

merck4cosmetics.com/AP

to download brochures.

IR3535

THE BEST WAY TO KEEP BUGS AT BAY

Mercks IR3535repels mosquitoes, ticks, lice, and other

insects with impressive efciency. As well as having a

remarkable toxicological profle, this insect repellent is very

skin-riendly. In act, IR3535is even suited or childrens

sensitive skin, as it meets the strict requirements placed on

childrens products. As a result, children can play outside

and parents dont need to worry about bug bites or

inection.

Approved the world overthe world over

Both the World Health Organization (WHO) and the United

States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) haveevaluated and classifed IR3535.

The WHO

has classifed IR3535as a Class U hazard. Class U substances

are unlikely to present acute hazard in normal use.

The EPA

has termed IR3535a biopesticide. Although IR3535

is structured like a chemical, it does bear similarities to

naturally-occurring amino acids.

IR3535 in your products

IR3535is odorless, highly stable, and simple to ormulate.

It can be used in lotions, creams, gels, sprays, and roll-ons.

At Merck, weve designed a ormula with IR3535that

helps your products work longer with up to seven hours o

protection!

We have a wealth o experience when it comes to ormula-

tion. Ask your local sales representative how you can beneft

rom Merck expertise or write us at [email protected]

Details are also available at www.merck4cosmetics.com/

IR3535

PRODUCTS FOR CHILDRENS SKIN?CHILDS PLAY WITH MERCK

As the seasons change, dierent kinds o skin require dierent kinds o care. Childrens

skin, or example, is quite sensitive. And its never too early to shield young skin rom

harmul UV radiation. As an industry leader, Merck inherently understands these needs

and has the product portolio to match.


11/16

www.merck4cosmetics .com Specia l report : chi ldren s sk in / 11

CandurinPearl Eect Colors

SAFETY THAT SHINES

Children love putting objects in their mouths: buttons, sand, even

cosmetic products. When it comes to childrens cosmetics, manu-

acturers need to design products that look attractive while repre-

senting the ultimate in saety. Its also essential to communicate this

inormation on the shel. Candurin the mineral pearl eect color

line rom Merck meets all three o these challenges.

An appealing shine

Children are naturally drawn to sparkling products made just or

them, such as toothpaste, lip gloss, and ace paint. Candurinhelps

you achieve the shimmering eects o pearlescent colors that are

so popular with kids.

Proven saety

A word rom Mercks regulatory aairs ofce: The saety o Candurin

is internationally approved: The ingredients ulfll the requirements

o ood laws in Europe and other countries. Candurin is produced

according to Good Manuacturing Practices (GMP) and all o this in

addition to Mercks own strict saety standards, which have defned

our company or more than one century.

An outstanding claim

With sophisticated shine and uncompromising saety, Candurin

pearl eect colors open up new opportunities in advertising the

benefts o your products. A label such as made exclusively with

ood colors is guaranteed to stand out on any shel.

I youd like your childrens cosmetics products to oer a genuine

dierence at the point o sale, ask your local sales representative

about CandurinPearl Eect Colors rom Merck.

Visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/candurin to download brochures

and other inormation right away.

MERCK KNOWS WHAT KIDS LIKE: PINK!

Looking or some exciting new avenues into childrens cosmetics?

Think pink with the new Simply Pink! kit rom Merck. Featuring

shampoo, lip gloss, and eye shadow, Simply Pink! is flled with

ideas and inspiration on how your products can play up this

much-loved childrens color.

Ask your local sales representative or your very own

Simply Pink! kit plus additional samples straight rom

our laboratory.

For urther inormation, go to

www.merck4cosmetics.com/simplypink


12/16

12 / Specia l report : appl icat ion technology cosmagazine@merck .de

No product exists in a vacuum. Thats common knowledge, but its a act that

bears repeating because you also need to know how to reap the maximum

beneft rom the products youre working with. This is where Merck can help.

With decades o expertise in application technology, we can work with

customers to develop new solutions or take existing ones to the next level.

Just take a look at our track record and latest developments in cosmetics.

T H E M E R C K C T C A N D A P P L I C A T I O N K I T S

A WORLD OF POSSIBILITY


13/16

Specia l report : appl icat ion technology / 13www.merck4cosmetics .com

A NEW SPOKE IN THE SERVICE WHEEL: THE MERCK CTC

Ofcially opened on September 8, 2009, Mercks new Cosmetic

Technology Center (CTC) in Darmstadt oers R&D proessionals

in pigments and active ingredients a 100% increase in work-

space, larger labs, rooms or training sessions and meetings, and

state-o-the-art lab equipment. But whats in this expansion o

technical services or Merck customers besides cutting-edge

R&D?

GREATER INSIGHT

The new CTC belongs to a network o six other Merck Application

Technology Centers around the world (one each in France,Taiwan, China, and Brazil, and two in the US). Merck customers

in need o cosmetics solutions are welcome to draw on this

global expertise. Whats more, the CTC leverages synergies

between pigments and active ingredients, adding a unique

perspective. Input rom both areas is also an excellent way to

pick up and capitalize on trends around the world. In addition,

the CTC can call on Merck experts in the companys own

chemicals and pharmaceuticals division or added insight in

cosmetics. That kind o joint in-house expertise is rare.

CLAIMS THAT SPEAK THE TRUTH

Naturally, highly-skilled cosmetics specialists are the lieblood o

the CTC. Seasoned proessionals in their industry, these Merck

experts are ready to tackle a number o projects. Take product

claim substantiation. Customers who want to play up their

products with statements such as provides excellent coverage

or lends the skin a matte appearance can ask the CTC or

assistance in fnding the right ingredients and understanding

what makes them the right choice in the frst place.

INSTRUCTION AND INSPIRATION

Twice a year, Merck customers are invited to attend fundamentals

workshops at the CTC addressing new developments in applica-

tions. The CTC also holds tailored workshops to help customerstackle their individual challenges in cosmetics whether theyre

about underlying concepts in cosmetics or real-lie practice.

These workshops are ideal or exploring application options and

routes in a proessional, hands-on environment.

I youd like an example o what Merck and our new CTC can do

or you in the way o application technology, look no urther

than our new unctional fllers, all developed in Japan:

RonaFlair Balance Gold, RonaFlair Balance Red, RonaFlair

Balance Blue, and RonaFlair Sotshade. For a frst look, head to

our interview with Christian Reischneider.


14/16

14 / Specia l report : appl icat ion technology cosmagazine@merck .de

COSmagazine: Tell us about the unctional part o

unctional fllers.

Reischneider: Our fllers help change the appearance

o skin, such as lending mattiying properties and

covering up wrinkles. They also improve a cosmeticproducts texture. As a result, consumers will discover

that their avorite products glide on more easily, or

example, or that their skin eels better with the product

on it.

COSmagazine: Mercks assortment now eatures our

new unctional fllers. What makes them special?

Reischneider: Lets start with RonaFlair Balance Gold,

RonaFlair Balance Red, and RonaFlair Balance Blue.

Each o these fllers display matte intererence eects,

so you can achieve the same strong colors without the

shine. Were incredibly excited about the opportunities

this oers. Not only are these fllers matte and trans-

parent, you can use them individually or blend them to

correct any skin tone in the world. And the skin eel is

excellent.

COSmagazine: RonaFlair Sotshade, on the otherhand, is a pure white fller without any intererence

eect. What kinds o applications can you use it in?

Reischneider:RonaFlair Sotshade strikes an excellent

balance between transparency, coverage, and mattifca-

tion, so it can be used to correct a number o skin

complaints, such as eye rings. And its perect or

make-up and ace care. The most interesting thing

about RonaFlair Sotshade, however, is its reputation

as a sot ocus fller. You see, this particular fller has

a unique surace structure and uses extremely small

particles. Thats what helps RonaFlair Sotshade

diuse and scatter light on the skin. It looks natural

and resh, and complexions appear smooth.

RonaFlair is the new umbrella brand name or all Merck unctional fllers.

Aside rom a more recognizable name, what do these fllers oer customers in

the way o applications? We sat down with Christian Reischneider to fnd out.

HAVE YOUR

FILL OFFILLERS


15/16

Specia l report : appl icat ion technology / 15www.merck4cosmetics .com

Merck Application Kits

HOW TO BRING THE SPA EXPERIENCE HOME

The Your Beauty Spa kit is the latest addition to the inspiring and innovative

line-up o Merck application kits. In keeping with our well-established applica-

tion kit tradition, the Your Beauty Spa package is flled with tangible ideas and

suggestions on how to incorporate the good or the soul and natural trends

into your daily skincare products.

SEVEN SAMPLES IN THE YOUR BEAUTY SPA KIT HELP RECREATE

THE SPA EXPERIENCE AT HOME:

The resh avocado mask with RonaCareTiliroside, a natural substance espe-cially suited to caring or sensitive skin

The shimmering body oil ormulated with natural oils and amazing optical

eects based on TimironIce Crystal and ColoronaPrecious Fine Gold

The Zen soap bar with its calming green hue highlighted by XironaKiwi Rose

and RonastarGreen Sparks

The delicious mango body butter with RonaCareAP to care or skin and ef-

ciently scavenge or radicals that are generated naturally in the skins surace

The sot skin glow lotion with a gradual tanning eect thanks to dihydroxy-

acetone (DHA) plus ingredients considered to be commonly accepted by NaTrue

The delicate bath powder with nurturing RonaCare Ectoin and RonaCare

Allantoin, as well as sparkling RonastarPurple Sparks

The extraordinary beauty capsules with CandurinPearl Eect Colors add the

perect fnishing touch to the spa theme

As with every Merck application kit, youll fnd cosmetics ormulas with Merck

active ingredients and cosmetic pigments a combination the competition

simply cant match.

To learn more about the Your Beauty Spa kit or request

a sample, contact your local sales representative or visit

www.merck4cosmetics.com/Yourbeautyspa

Another application in store or you: Discover the possibilities o stable pink

shades with Mercks Simply Pink! kit on the back page.

COSmagazine: Particle size now were getting into

substrates.

Reischneider:Merck uses a broad variety o premium

substrates: silica, alumina, natural as well as synthetic

mica, bismuth oxychloride, and calcium aluminum

borosilicate. These can take the shape o spheres,

crystals, or platelets, and to a certain extent theycan be combined. Whats worth noting here is this: other

companies rely heavily on platelets, whereas Merck

oers a greater choice. So we can help our customers

achieve a number o eects like the ball bearing

eect where the product glides on as though ball

bearings are at work when our spheres are gliding

between our platelets. Merck also covers the matte-shine

and transparent-opaque spectrums.

COSmagazine:What about other ingredients that make

these fllers stand out?

Reischneider:RonaFlair products are inorganic in

origin. This means that you can use them almost

without exception to support product claims such as

mineral or natural in cosmetic assortments.

COSmagazine: Natural and mineral are on everyones

lips these days. Where do RonaFlair fllers actor in?

Reischneider:Natural and mineral arent legally

defned as a claim or cosmetic product. But the philoso-

phy behind both is a wonderul ft with our unctional

fllers. Our products are incredibly skin-riendly, sourced

rom inorganic minerals, and show non-comedogenicproperties. As a company, Merck takes a sustainable

approach to everything we do. And as ar as RonaFlair

fllers are concerned, they meet NaTrue criteria so

were very well positioned to help our customers

products reect the natural trend.

Developing breakthrough applications takes more than

the right fllers you need the best selection on the

market and highly capable proessionals to support you

every step o the way. At Merck, wed be delighted to

help you take advantage o all three. Ask your local

sales representative to get started.

To learn more, visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/RonaFlairbalance

and www.merck4cosmetics.com/RonaFlairsotshade

to download brochures. Theyre illed with all the technical

inormation you need even benchmarks.

CHRISTIAN REIFSCHNEIDER,

LABORATORY MANAGER FOR

COSMETIC PIGMENTS AT MERCK


16/16

16 / Events

PUBLISHED BY

Merck KGaA

Performance & Life Science

Chemicals

Frankfurter Strasse 250

64293 Darmstadt

Germany

Phone: +49 6151 72-6899

Fax: +49 6151 72-916899

[email protected]

EDITING & LAYOUT

RTS Rieger Team,

www.rts-riegerteam.de

DISCLAIMER

Merck provides information

on application technologies

and relevant regulations

based upon our current

knowledge and opinion at

the time of printing. Merck

makes no representation

or warranty of any kind, ex-

press or implied, including

merchantability or fitness

for a particular use, with

respect to such informa-

tion or its application.

Purchasers must indepen-

dently determine the

suitability of our ingre-

dients for the purchasers

intended product, use

or process. Purchaser is

responsible for observing

all laws and regulations

relevant to such products,

uses or processes. The

foregoing information and

suggestions are also pro-

vided without warranty of

non-infringement as to the

intellectual property rightsof third parties, and shall

not be construed as any

inducement to infringe the

rights of third parties.

THINK PINK WITH OUR SIMPLY PINK! KIT

Pink: a must-have color! It appeals to a wide

range o consumers teenagers, young women,

more mature women, even career women whodlike to add a dash o color to their proessional

look. But did you know that pink can vary

rom a light pastel to red and even tones

tinged with blue? Thanks to our broad

product portolio, Merck oers you

the right combination o

pearlescent pigments and

unctional fllers or a

dedicated and stable

shade o pink.

WHATS IN THE

SIMPLY PINK!

KIT?

This new kit

rom Merck is a

compact showcase

o just a ew ways

we assist our custom-

ers in making the most o

stable pink shades. The kit

contains lip gloss, eye shadow, and

shampoo plus plenty o ideas andinspiration. In act, Mercks product

portolio is ideally positioned to help you think

pink immediately.

Heres a preview:

XIRONA LE ROUGE LINE

This pigment demonstrates excellent color andlight stability so you can use its pearly shine in

many more red-hot applications.

RONAFLAIR EXTENDER W

Blend in this fller to reduce

pearlescence and create

boundless varieties o

pastel shades.

RONASTAR SPAR-

KLING PIGMENTS

Add sophisticated

sparkle eects

and turn heads.

Need more inorma-

tion on the Simply

Pink! kit? Head to

www.merck4cosmetics.

com/simplypink

Ready to order? Talk to your

local sales representative.

Theyll put pink at your fngertips,complete with additional

application samples straight rom

the Merck laboratory.

www merck4cosmetics comThis magazine is just a taste of Merck expertise and service

EVENTS IN 2009/2010September 9-13 2009 SUNSCREEN SYMPOSIUM ORLANDO, USA www.scconline.org

October 7-9 IFSCC MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA www.iffscc.org

October 14-16 56th SEPAWA WRZBURG, GERMANY www.sepawa.com

October 25-28 COLAMIQ GUAYAQUIL, ECUADOR

March 1012 PCHi SHANGHAI, CHINA www.pchi-china.com

April 1315 IN-COSMETICS PARIS, FRANCE www.in-cosmetics.com

cosmagazine@merck .de

merck chemicals - cos magazine 2.09

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