making traditional bows light

5/20/2018 Making Traditional Bows Light

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Maing Traditina Bs

Explained to the last detail easy instructions, color photos and video clips to guide you along

Making Traditional Bows LIGHT v. 1.21 Written by C. Mnkel Copyright 2011 Second Chapter Publishing ApS. All Rights Reserved. Page 1

Written by Chris Mnkel MD

Bow and arrow maker for The

Historic Viking Fortress Trelleborg

LIGHT version

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Light version - Introduction

This is the free light version of the e-book Making Traditional Bows. I

have included 42 pages and the video clip on how to make a Flemish

bowstring.

The video contentThe video clip included here is an example of how the video clips function

in the DOWNLOAD version of the e-book. In the DVD-ROM version of the

e-book the video clips are embedded in the PDF le which means you do

not need a connection to the internet to watch the video content.

If you encounter any problems when reading the e-book or when watching

the video clip -read the section about the e-book on page 11.

Remember, in only a few minutes you can be reading the full version of the

e-book. Just click here to buy and download the full version now!

Enjoy reading your copy of the light version!

The full version of the e-book includes:

More than 100 informative A4 (letter) size pages - Compared to most

regular books that is equivalent to more than 200 pages.

20 video clips - a mix of valuable instructive

video clips and bonus action video clips of

the author shooting the bows and arrows

that he carefully shows you how to make. All

videos are in English.

227 illustrative and supportive color photos.

When you make a bow or an arrow using this

book, you will not be lost in the dark with only

text to guide you - That is Guaranteed!

10 useful technical illustrations which will make your day at the workshop a

breeze; for instance when marking out a longbow.

Get the complete e-book now at: www.makingtraditionalbows.com

Reader reviews:

The book was easy to follow and told me everything I needed to know. I

have never done anything like this before and I found it easy and fun to do.

The videos were great to watch when doing the more complex aspect.

Tony, Wigan, England

This is the most well done work of its kind, worth paying for. I value what

youve done and recognise your labor and expense in making the book

and videos. Thank you!

Noah, Montana, USA

This e-book is very well writen. I wish I would have had this book when I

made my rst bow. This will be an excellent addition to my library of bow

making.

David, Georgia, USA

Many thanks for your excellent & prompt help! I think the E-book is really

great and the videos are worth their weight in gold!

Robert, Brighton, England

Read more reviews at: www.makingtraditionalbows.com/reviews.html

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Copyright 2011 Second Chapter Publishing ApS

This book is a personalized copy of the e-book Making Traditional

Bows with your name imbedded as a watermark and this watermark

associates the PDF le and the e-book to you the purchasing costumer.

The watermark will help us identify any unauthorized copies found online

or elsewhere. This is only meant as a copyright protection to protect therights of the copyright holder against unauthorized copying. The PDF le

contains absolutely no other information about you.

Your rights

You cannot share copies of this e-book with other people, and you cannot

sell a used e-book. Ownership is yours, and it cannot be transferred. You

may make copies for your own personal use on an unlimited number of

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but a print-out cannot be shared in any way. You have no right to copy,

modify, post, share, make available to others, or otherwise distribute this

e-book or any of the material contained herein. Any breach of these rights

whatsoever is illegal and will result in legal sanctions.

Front and back cover photos

The author shooting a 50 pound bamboo back laminate longbow.

The making of the bamboo back longbow, the war arrow and the medieval

style arrow bag featured in the photos are thoroughly covered in this book.

Photo by Jane Maimann

Text editing

Pia Sander

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Sections marked with a (*) are only included in the full version of the

e-book - Get it now at www.makingtraditionalbows.com

abe Cnnt:Light version - Introduction 2Introduction 8

Warning - Disclaimer 10

1. Te - 11Video clip playback 11

Printing the e-book 11

Zooming 11

Links 11Metric and imperial units 12

2. B n erm 133.Te ng 14

4. i erin 17

Fig. 1Bow proles 19

5. A uic esn n wo * 22Wood seasoning * 22

Wood grain * 22

6. Te aminate ng 22What you need 23The bamboo back laminate 23

The ash back laminate 23

The belly laminate * 23

The glue * 23

The Form * 23

The leather handle * 23

The string nocks * 23

The laminate longbow (ash back) * 23

The work process * 23Making the laminates * 23

Gluing the laminates together * 23

Marking out the bow * 23

Cutting out the bow 23

Shaping the bow * 24

Tillering * 24

Shortening the bow limbs to increase the draw weight * 24

The nock reinforcements 24

Sanding 24

The arrow plate 24

Final sanding and the varnish 25

The leather handle * 25

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Last * 25

The laminate longbow (bamboo back) * 25

The work process * 25

Making the bamboo laminate * 25Gluing the laminates together * 25

Marking out and cutting out the bow * 25

Dealing with the nodes of the bamboo * 26

Removing the rind and shaping the bow * 26

Tillering * 26

Making and tting the horn nocks * 26

Applying the varnish * 26

Last * 26

Fig. 2The laminate longbow * 26

Fig. 3The laminate longbow (use for heavy draw weight bow) * 26

7. Te flat - Hmegaa tyle 27The atbow 27

The Holmegaard bow 27

Fig. 4High and low crown * 28

What you need 28

The stave 28

The work process 29Removing the bark 29

Seasoning 29

Marking out the bow 29

Cutting out the bow * 30

Shaping the limbs * 30

Tillering * 30

Final sanding * 30

Last * 30Some comments on the making of the Holmegaard atbow * 30

The Holmegaard bow test shoot * 30

The dimensions of the original Holmegaard bow (6000 BC) * 30The dimensions of the replica Holmegaard bow (2010) * 30

Fig. 5The larger atbow * 30

8. Hael wo el 31The dimensions of the Hazel bow * 31

9. Te Femih wi trin 32What you need 32The string material 32

Materials for the string jig 32

Other stuff you need 32

The work process 32The string jig 32

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The bowstring 32

Last 33

Table 3(number of strands) 33

Fig. 6The string jig * 33

10. Arr in 3311. Te W Arr 34What you need 35The arrow shaft 35

The arrow head 36

The etchings 36

The binding thread 36

The nock 36

Other stuff you will need 37

The work process 37Fitting the arrow head 37

Cutting the shaft 37

The bobtail prole 37

The nock reinforcements 38

The self nock 39

The varnish 39

Fletching 40Binding 40

Last 41

War arrow test 41The target knight 41

Lets get it on! 42

Some nal thoughts * 42

12. e aget * 43What you need * 43The arrow shaft * 43

The arrow head * 43

The etchings * 43

The nock * 43

The work process * 43Dyeing the shaft * 43

The varnish * 43

The nock * 43

Fletching * 43

Cutting the arrow shaft * 43

Fitting the arrow head * 43

Last * 43

Target arrow test * 43

13. Te flight * 43What you need * 43The arrow shaft * 43

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The arrow head * 43

The etchings * 43

The nock * 43

The work process * 43The parallel ight arrow * 43

The barreled ight arrow * 43The bobtailed ight arrow * 43

Fig. 7Arrow shaft proles * 43

Last * 43

Flight arrow test * 43How to cut the etchings * 43

Flight arrow test continued * 43

14. Te B g-edieva tyle * 44What you need * 44The fabric * 44

The bands and rope * 44

Fig. 8The Bow Bag 44

The work process * 44Cutting the fabric and creating the tube * 44Fitting the bands * 44

Sewing the bag * 44

Finishing the bow bag * 44

15. Te edieva g * 44What you need * 44The fabric * 44

The cotton string, rope and bands * 44The leather disc * 44

The work process * 44Making the leather disc * 44

Cutting the fabric and sewing the edges * 44

Forming the tube * 44

The loops for the carry string * 44

Stitching the leather disc in place * 44

Last * 44

Fig. 9The leather Disk * 44

16. Fna hught 4517. Literatu/fene * 45

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that you save at the library and online may now be spent making and

shooting your own bows.

Throughout the book I use ready available and reasonably priced materials

when making the various types of archery equipment. Personally, I nd it

very frustrating to read an instruction book where the author, for instance,

uses a very rare piece of yew wood to make a bow as yew is very hard tond and costs a fortune. Of course, if I am looking for information on yew

bows, that is ne.

My second reason for writing this book is to share with you some

information on the Holmegaard bows which are Mesolithic (Stone

Age) bows found only a few miles from where I live in Denmark. These

bows date back to around 6000 - 7000 BC and are known in archery

communities worldwide. One of the bows found was a completebow,

making it the oldest completebow found in the world and maybe also one

of the oldest bows at all. Other authors have written about the Holmegaard

bows and some are, in my opinion, more or less accurate. I would like

to share some of my knowledge on these bows with you with some

assistance of Danish archeologist Xenia Pauli Jensen.

Personally, I started making longbows or should I say short bows as I was

not very tall, aged 8 - 10 years. We lived next to the forest, so I had

plenty of resources at my disposal, and my dad had a fairly big

workshop with all the necessary tools. I have been making

bows and traditional archery equipment ever since, with

a few breaks, and in the recent years I have been

studying the subject in depth by reading a wide

selection of archery related books and articles.

Lately, I have been making traditional longbows

and arrows for the historic Viking Fortress Trelleborg

in Denmark. The fortress dates back to around 980AD and was possibly used by the Danish king Harald

Bluetooth. Todays Bluetooth technology is named after

the old Danish king due to his communication skills and

Introduction

My rst and most important reason for writing this book is to, hopefully,

create a single publication that can supply you with all the information that

you need to get started making your own traditional archery equipment,

with more ease and less time spent searching for information than I did

when I rst started out.

When I seriously started looking for information on how to make traditional

bows, arrows, and archery equipment, I found it very frustrating that I had

to search far and wide and go through a large number of books, videos

and websites, to nd what I needed to make my rst bow and arrows. It

meant that I often ended up spending all day at the library and all night

online. What I was looking for was easy-to-follow instructions, many

photos, illustrations and maybe a video clip or two to guide me in the right

direction. Often, I had to fumble in the dark with only written text guiding

me as photos and illustrations were missing or too few. In those tricky

moments it would have been nice with a video clip to shed some light on

the subject. I would also have enjoyed watching the authors shoot and usethe equipment, which they had just taught you how to make.

There are some very well written books on how to make traditional bows

as well as various sources of information online, but generally illustrations

and photos were too few for my needs. Some instructional video clips may

also be found online, but they are of erratic quality.

When the highly experienced bow makers write books on the subject, I

believe that they sometimes forget to tell you the details, simply because

making bows has become second nature to them.

Many of the well written books are in a foreign language, which is not a

problem as such, but I had to order the books from outside the country and

thus wait for a week or more to get started. I am sure this is not just the

case in Denmark.

You are now holding or should I say looking at your new e-book and

hopefully you have acquired it with no effort spent on your part. The time

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ability to lead diplomatic negotiations. Not a skill the Vikings are commonly

known for.

Since I was a child I have been drawn towards martial arts and traditional

weaponry, and I have been practicing more traditional forms of both armed

and unarmed combat. To this day I still wonder what it is that draws me/

us to search in the direction of the ancient traditions. Maybe it is becauselife was simpler back then, or at least we think so. Today, everyone is so

stressed out and life on this planet is becoming still more complicated, so

searching in this direction gives us a little taste of ancient simplicity.

I have spent a long time writing this book and turning it into what you see

before you today. I have made an effort to include all the things which I

thought were missing when I started out. I sincerely hope that you will

enjoy the book and nd that it includes all the information that you will

need.

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Warning - Disclaimer

This e-book (Making Traditional Bows) is meant to provide authoritative

and accurate information on the subject matter covered.

The author has been thorough in his research and is knowledgeable in the

eld of traditional archery and the making of such equipment. However, heis neither responsible nor liable for any inaccuracy or errors and omissions,

or for any damage or injury to persons or property resulting from the use

of this e-book or the use of any information, instruction, method or idea

contained or given herein.

When you choose to follow and/or rely on the instructions given in this

e-book, you do so at your sole risk.

Working with tools, especially power tools, is dangerous and so is shooting

and handling a bow and arrow without the appropriate training. This

e-book is sold with the understanding that the author and the publisher

Second Chapter Publishing ApS are not engaged in rendering professional

services, nor is anyone else connected with this e-book. If you have anydoubts whatsoever, professional advice or other expert assistance should

be sought.

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1. Te -This is an e-book made in the PDF format which makes it possible to

read on your computer, laptop or a variety of handheld devices such as

smartphones and e-book readers. To read this e-book on your computer or

laptop I recommend that you use Adobe Reader which you can downloadfor free here. The table of contents can be accessed in the Bookmarks

panel of Adobe Reader for quick and easy navigation within the book.

If you have any need for support, please contact:

[email protected].

Video clip playback

To watch the video content of the e-book, you need to have Adobe Flash

Player installed which is a free software. If you have an older version of the

player installed, the videos may not play, and you will then need to update

to the latest version of the player.

Click here- to go to the Adobe Flash Player site to see which version you

have installed.

At the Player Site you can also follow the link to the Player Download

Center to download the latest version of the player or you can click hereto

go to the player download page.

Regarding video playback on your handheld device, please refer to the

instructional manual included when you bought the device.

When you wish to watch a video clip while reading the e-book, left-click

the movie frame once (your computer or e-book reading device needs tobe connected to the internet). A popup box will appear, asking you if you

trust the website makingtraditionalbows.com. Choose Allow to go to the

website to watch the video (DOWNLOAD version & LIGHT version).

Click the Play button and the movie will start. The video clip can be paused

by clicking the Pause button on the control bar. To navigate within the clip

you use the slider on the control bar.

(When you buy the DVD-ROM version of the e-book, you receive the

e-book on a DVD-ROM. The video clips are embedded in the PDF le

which means you do not need a connection to the internet to watch the

video content).

The volume can be turned up and down by using the volume slider on the

control bar.

When you are done watching the video clip, you may close your browser.

Printing the e-book

You can print the e-book if you prefer to read the book this way. Before

going to your workshop printing the gures may be really helpful as you do

not need to bring the computer.

Zooming

To zoom in on the video clips, the photos or the text in the e-book you use

the zoom function in Adobe Reader.

Links

Links are one of the wonderful things that can be included in an e-book,

and something you cannot put into a regular ink and paper style book. Theexternal links are blue, underlinedand link to an external source on the

World Wide Web and are meant to be an aid to supply further information

on the particular word or phrase. Internal links are blue and link to other

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pages in the book. To return to the page which you came from, right-click

your mouse and choose Previous View (Adobe Reader).With the links

you, the reader, will quickly have access to further information on the

subject. The computer or the device which you use for reading the e-book

needs to be connected to the internet for the external links to work. The

World Wide Web is constantly changing so if you nd any dead links,

please let us know and we will correct it as soon as possible.

Metric and imperial units

All information is given in both metric and imperial units, the only exception

being the draw weight of the bows. It has become tradition to announce

draw weight and draw length of bows in imperial units. Draw weight is

announced in pounds. One pound equals 0.454 kilograms which is a little

less than 1/2 kilogram.

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2. B n erm

Draw length

Belly of

the bowBack of

the bow

Forces of

tension

Forces of

compression

Handle riserHandle

Upper bow

leg/limb

Lower bow

leg/limb

Bracing height

(string height)

Bowstring

String

nock

Arrow head Shoulder Arrow shaft Fletchings Nock

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3.Te ng

W

hen and how the longbow got its name, I am not certain and to

my knowledge neither are the history experts. When pondering

on the term longbow the rst thing that comes to mind as a

possible origin is, as implied in the name, the length of the bow. The lengthof the longbow is naturally also one of the theories on what gave rise to

the name. Longbows do, in general, have longer limps when for instance

compared to atbows. Another theory on how the longbow got its name is

referring to the way it is used and shot, which is upright compared to the

crossbow which is held across the body.

When comparing a longbow to a atbow it is not only the length of the

longbow that makes it different from the atbow but the complete design

of the bow. The design of a longbow is characterized by its narrow and

thick limps and the atbow by its wide and thinner limps. In cross section

the longbow is D shaped, and the atbow has a more rectangular or oval

shape. The limps of a longbow will, due to the design differences, have afaster return speed when compared to the limps of a atbow of the same

mass. The longbow will, as a result of the faster return of the limbs, be able

to shoot an arrow a longer distance. The wood of both the bellyand the

backof a longbow are stressed to a larger extend than that of a atbow

due to the design differences. The stress is lessened, to some degree,

by the longer limbs of the longbow. In a atbow the stress is more evenly

distributed across the whole cross section of the wider limbs, which means

you do not need perfect bow wood to make a atbow and can thus use

the weaker types of wood such as ash and elm etc. A atbow can also be

made with shorter limbs because the stress is more evenly distributed,

thus diminishing the requirement for the longer limbs. The weaker bow

woods are not equally suitable for making a longbow.

The above explains why only very few types of wood may be used to make

a longbow from one piece of wood (a selfbow), as it was practice back in

time. A type of wood that will make a good longbow is yew (taxus baccata).

Yew possesses the perfect combination of the compression resistant

heartwoodand the tension resistant sapwoodwhich makes it the perfect

bow wood. When that is said, it should be added that not all yew is perfect

bow wood. The quality of the particular piece of wood,depends on the

growing conditions of the yew tree from which the stave was cut. Yew has,

not surprisingly, been the favored wood of bow makers (bowyers) since

the Iron Age and up to the late medieval period, and to many it still is whenmaking a bow from one piece of wood.

Because of the almost unique characteristics of yew it is one of the very

few types of wood that has the ability to withstand thecompression forces

at work on the belly side of a longbow, without the wood giving in when the

bow is drawn and used over time, or in the worst case, getting a fracture.

This applies to longbows over 50 pounds in draw weight and made from a

single piece of wood. Longbows under 50 pounds can be made from the

weaker types of wood but the level of success will depend on how high

a draw weight is chosen, the quality of the wood being used and the skill

of the bowyer. Although yew is close to perfect bow wood, our ancestors

still had a lot of problems with yew bows breaking. Yew was the only bow

wood available for making powerful longbows in ancient and medieval

Europe, which made it a very desired commodity. In medieval England yew

was brought in from far and wide and it was illegal to export yew from the

region.

Today yew wood is rare and very expensive, and in some regions

of Denmark it is even illegal to cut down the yew tree. The

story is a different one with regard to the selection and

availability of wood for making a laminate longbow.

Many different types of wood can be combined to

make a laminate longbow and when doing so you

will still have a good, reliable and maybe even better

bow than a yew bow. In order to successfully combine

the layers of a laminate bow you need a strong adhesiveto create a safe and functional bond between the different

layers of the laminate bow. Today, a wide selection of glue

is available and some are able to effectively glue the layers

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of a laminated bow and this even under the stressful life of a bow. Back

in time the bow makers did not have the option of making laminate bows,

simply because they did not have reliable glue, and this is why they had to

make bows from a single piece of wood.

When making a longbow today the most common practice is to make

a laminate longbow, partly because the yew is so hard to obtain andwhen found so very expensive, but also because we have the right glue

available. Not to forget the fact that it is a lot easier to make a simple

laminate longbow than a yew selfbow or any selfbow for that matter, and

the laminate bow may even shoot better. When making a laminate bow

you can pretty much use a set of dimensions, which is not possible when

making a bow from one piece of wood, because you have to care for the

knots and the curvatures of the wood etc.

Having said all this, we cannot deny the awe and beauty that surrounds a

well made yew bow, which over the years has drawn the attention of many.

In the bogs of Denmark archaeological nds of Iron Age war booty

offerings have been recovered, and among the nds were several

longbows, some dating back to the year 200 AD. The bows found are

powerful yew selfbows, the size of a fully grown man, with an oval or

D shaped cross section. The D shaped cross section was the most

common design of the longbows from the late 3rd and 4th century whereas

the longbows with the oval cross section belonged to the earlier nds. It is

amazing how the design of the longbow has hardly changed since the 3rd

century.

The period between the Iron Age and the Medieval Times (800 - 1050

AD) signies the days of the Vikings to the Scandinavians. Powerful D

section longbows dating back to the Age of the Vikings have been found

in the former Danish Viking town Hedeby. The town lies just across theDanish/German border near the German town Schleswig. In German

Hedeby is called Haithabu. Hedeby dates back to 800 AD and was a key

trading center in the Viking Age. The town was attacked and destroyed

on numerous occasions and was nally destroyed, as far as I know,

around1050 AD by the Norwegians. It was never rebuilt. At the site of

the old Viking town one complete bow and six bow fragments have been

found. Also found were numerous arrow heads, some fragments of arrow

shafts and patches of leather thought to have been part of a hip-side

quiver (arrow bag).

The one complete bow found was made from a slender stem of yew andwas 191 cm long. At the handle the bow was 4 cm wide by 3.3 cm thick.

There were no signs of an actual handle but some markings were found

just above the centre, which are interpreted as wear caused by the arrows

passing. The only design differences when compared to bows from the

Iron Age are the characteristic de-exed tips found on these bows. 5 - 9 cm

(2 - 3 1/2) from the ends of the limbs the tips are bent back in the direction

of the archer. Why exactly the Vikings de-exed the tips of their longbows

I am not sure, and I have not found any good arguments concerning the

matter. Personally, I believe it might have been some form of aid when

bracing the bow.

A German author has made three replica bows of the one complete bow

from Hedeby, and the bows have a draw weight around 75 - 90 pounds.

Five of the six bow fragments that were also found were made from yew

and the last one from elm. All the designs were quite similar.

After the Viking Age comes the Medieval Times. Here, the English have

shown us the power of the longbow when it is used on a larger scale as

an artillery weapon. Medieval longbows have been recovered from the

English war ship The Mary Rose, which sank in 1545 while leading an

attack on a French invasion eet. The Mary Rose was salvaged in 1982

by The Mary Rose Trust. One could say that the longbows recovered

from The Mary Rose represent some of the last longbows used for war as

rearms were taking over at around that period. The English were some of

the last to let go of the longbow.

When considering the many and much earlier nds and proof of D

section longbows, I am confused and not quite sure what is meant when

someone calls a longbow an English longbow, because longbows were

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used in various places long before the Medieval Times. It is my opinion

that it would be fairer if we left the longbow design unclaimed by any man

or country. Let us all just enjoy the amazing design that it was and still is.

We will shortly start making some ne longbows, but rst you need to know

a little about tillering and the remarkable structure of wood. Read on!

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4. i erinWhen making bows you need to know something about the art of tillering.

Tillering roughly means to make the bow bend nice and evenly by

removing wood in the right places. There are more aspects to the art of

tillering than getting the bow to bend nicely. You also have to arrive at thedesired draw weight and draw length, all in the same process. The draw

weight of a bow is the amount of force/weight that is required to draw

the bow back to its full drawn position. Your draw length is the distance

from the back of the bow to the bowstring when you have drawn the bow

to its full drawn position. This is a practical way of measuring your draw

length. If you buy a more modern bow, the manufactures may measure

the draw length a little differently (and more complicated) in an attempt to

standardize the way of measuring draw length. We are making our own

equipment, so we do not have to worry about any standardization. The

most common draw length for adult males is in the area of 71 - 73.5 cm

(28 - 29).

To be able to tiller your bow you need a tillering

devise. The photos (p1-3) show two examples

of such a devise. The simple tiller in photo

(p1+2) is the easiest one to make as it is just a

simple board. When using the simple tiller you

place the handle of the bow in the slot at the

top of the board. The bow can now be drawn

back/down by hand with the device resting on

the ground as shown in the photos. Fix the

bowstring in one of the grooves cut into the

board at 5 cm (2) increments. Then step back

and watch the bend of the bow. You do not even

need to make the stand arrangements shown in

the photos (p1-2), just rest the tiller board and

your partly drawn bow against the wall.

The wall tiller seen in photo (p3),

may take a little longer to make but

it is really nice to have, especially If

you are considering making more

bows. When using the wall tiller it is

possible to draw the bow back from

a distance using rope and pulleys,thus making it convenient and easy

to see the bend of the bow while

you work. Working the bow on the

tiller after you have removed wood

as part of the tillering is also easier

when using a wall tiller.

You can see the wall tiller in use in the video clip - The tillering process.

The majority of wood removal during the tillering process is done on the

belly side of the bow. Occasionally it is necessary to remove wood from

the sides of the bow, for instance if a bow limb is twisting to one side.

Regarding the bows we will be making in this book, we never remove

wood from the back of the bow during the tillering process. When I tiller

a bow, I hardly ever use any other tools than a card scraper and maybe

some rough sandpaper. When I nd a spot that needs some wood

removed, I use the card scraper to remove the necessary amount of

wood and then remove the tool marks from the card scraper with rough

sandpaper.

Before we start the actual tillering

we should take a look at some

different bow proles to give you a

better understanding of how a bow

should bend, and what to look out

for when tillering.

Prole A(Fig.1) is a bow bending

through its full length, also called

bending full compass. The bow is

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also bending in the handle area, which means the handle section is a part

of the working bow. This prole is great for distance shooting and was also

the preferred prole for the artillery bows back in time. Having the bow

bend through the handle makes it more powerful, but often uncomfortable

to use as it is more prone to kick when shot. Prole A is not the best

prole for obtaining maximum accuracy and consistency, especially at

a shorter range, which is something you would wish for when targetshooting.

Prole B (Fig.1)has a stiff handle section which is obtained through a

small handle riser(rise of the handle). A bow with prole B has more

stability and will be more accurate and comfortable to shoot compared to a

bow with prole A. The increase in accuracy is gained by only a slight loss

in distance. Prole B is a good all round bow design and this is the design

we will be using for the longbows in this book.

As with everything else good in life, such as the stiff handle section, the

tendency is that if you overdo it, it does not turn out very well, which is the

case with prole C.

Prole C(Fig.1),the whip ended bow is the extreme case of a stiff handle/

centre section. This prole has a bad tendency to stack when drawn, which

means the bow gets harder to draw as you approach your full draw length.

The bow is much more in danger of taking a bad set (follow the string) or

getting a fracture, as there is much more stress on the bow limbs at the

point where they actually do bend. The whip ended bow is often quite

accurate over shorter distances, but it will not have a great amount of

power and thus not be able to achieve any great distance when shot. This

is why we want our bows to bend all the way up to the handle section, with

the only stiff part being the small handle area with the riser.

Prole D (Fig.1)shows a bow that bends too much in the handle. The bow

will be more prone to damage in this area.

Prole E (Fig.1)shows a bow with a hinge on the right bow leg. The bow

will be more prone to damage in this area.

Prole C, D and E all illustrate problems that you should try to avoid when

tillering. The problem areas are exaggerated for illustration purposes and

may not be as obvious when tillering your bow and should be corrected

long before they get as bad as illustrated.

Prole F(Fig.1)shows a bow with an uneven tiller, where one bow leg is

bending much more than the other. The two nocks should be at the samehorizontal level and the bow should have an even bend.

The handle of the longbow is offset from the centre of the bow (length

wise), which means you are holding down on the lower bow limb(Fig. 2

(only full version). This results in the lower bow limb being both shorter and

stiffer than the upper limb. The upper bow limb will thus bend slightly more

than the lower limb, which is not an uneven tiller but the way a longbow

should bend, and this can be checked during the tillering process. To do

this, brace the bow and measure the distance from the string to the belly of

the bow, on both the upper and the lower limb at any point equally distant

from the handle. When doing so, the distance from the string to the belly of

the bow should be about 0.5 cm (3/16) shorter on the lower limb than on

the upper limb.

To get started with the tillering process you need to make an overlong and

temporary bowstring. I use braided nylon, but the temporary bowstring can

be made from any material that is strong enough for the job. I recommend

that you do not use the actual bowstring as it probably will get damaged in

the tillering process.

When you start tillering your bow, the rst task is to achieve an even bend

and avoid one bow leg being much stronger (stiffer) than the other. If this is

the case, you need to remove wood from the belly side of the stronger leg,

in order to make the bow bend nice and evenly.

Slowly start bending the bow on the tiller, only making it bend a few inches

at rst. Lets say I am drawing the bow down 10 cm (4) and it still bends

nicely, then I draw it down 10 cm (4) repeatedly 20-50 times before I

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A

B

C

D

E

F

Fig. 1Bow proles

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proceed. At some point in the past your bow was part of a tree and was not

exposed to the amount of stress that it will experience in its life as a bow.

Therefore it is important to take small steps and only bend the bow little by

little to let the wood get used to its new state. If and when the bow bends

nicely I draw it a little further and continue like this with 2.5 - 5 cm (1 - 2)

increments until I reach my intended draw length.

During the tillering always watch for irregularities and asymmetry in the

way the bow bends. If any stiff areas present themselves, remove wood

from this area and NEVER from the weak areas (an area were the bow

bends too much). To avoid causing permanent damage to the bow limbs it

is crucial that you take your bow off the tiller as soon as you see any form

of hinge or weak area starting to develop and do not draw your bow any

further until the error is corrected. The way you correct a hinge or weak

area is by removing wood around the area and leaving the hinged/weak

area untouched. When doing this you relieve the weak area and the bow

leg will start bending more evenly. Correcting a hinged area may cause

the particular bow limp to become weaker than the other limb due to the

removal of wood. If this happens, remove wood from the other limb to get

an even bend again.

Every time I remove wood during the tillering process, I draw the bow

down repeatedly 20 - 50 times to work the changes into the wood, before I

continue with the tillering.

When you have reached your intended draw length, shorten the string

to make it t tightly against the bow in such a way that the bow is still not

bending. Now with the shorter bowstring tted, draw the bow down in

small increments like before, repeating the process. Continue like this,

doing your magic, and remove wood if necessary. When you reach your

intended draw length once again, and if the bow is still bending nicely, it

is time to brace the bow at a lowbracing height. You do this by shortening

the bowstring once more. The bracing height of a bow is the distance fromthe belly side of the grip to the bowstring, measured at 90. An easy way

to gure out the distance, which has to suit the archer, is by using the

distance from the tip of a outstretched thumb to the other side of the hand,

which is typically around 15 - 17 cm (5 29/32 - 6 11/16). Now, go through

the process again at low bracing height and if the bow still bends nicely

when you reach your draw length, it is time to fully brace the bow and go

through the whole process one last time.

Before you have completed tillering you have to x your braced bow in a

vise near the handle with the belly side up. Now look down the bowstringfrom both ends and see how the bowstring is positioned in relation to the

central vertical axis of the bow (the centre line). The bowstring and the

centre line should be in alignment with the string overlapping the centre

line. If they do not overlap, make sure the bowstring is placed centrally in

the temporary nock grooves, which it should be. If the string is still not in

alignment with the centre line, it means one or both bow limbs are bending

off to one side and this may need to be corrected, depending on your

luck. When looking at the bow from the bottom leg, and you nd that the

bowstring is closer to the left edge of the bow, you have what is called a

handed bow, meant for a right handed archer. It takes a fair amount of skill

to make a handed bow, so congratulate yourself. If you are right handed

and the bowstring is closer to the right edge of the bow, you are not as

lucky and will have to do some work to get it back in alignment.

Here is what you do to get the bowstring to overlap the centre line as it

should, if you cannot excuse the fact that it is off by saying it is a handed

bow. You already have the bow xed in the vise and you now need to

remove a little wood from the side of the limbs. Remove the wood from

the side opposite to the side which the string has moved to, as this is the

stronger side. If for instance the bowstring is off to the right of the centre

line, you carefully remove wood with the card scraper from the left side

of the bow limbs. One bow leg alone could cause the string to be off the

centre line, if so, you only need to remove wood from the side of that

particular bow leg to get the string back in alignment with the centre line.

Having removed the wood you may need to bend the limbs by hand inthe desired direction for the effect to show. When you are done with the

corrections, put the bow back on the tiller and draw it down a couple of

times to see whether the changes remain effective.

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If you choose to make or keep the bow handed always make sure the

limbs of the bow are both bending evenly to the same side.

Making a handed bow is usually something that you do at the end of the

tillering process and it is done just as explained above, by removing a

little wood from the side of the limbs to which you want the string to move

to. Removing the wood will make the side from which the wood has beenremoved weaker, and the string will move in that direction.

A handed bow is more accurate on a short distance shot as the arrow does

not have to bend around the handle as much as it normally would (Read

the chapter on arrow spine and the archers paradoxfor more on this

subject). Professional bow makers often make handed bows.

It is now time to measure the draw weight of your bow. When doing so, the

bow needs to be drawn to the intended draw length. If you do not have a

scale that you can hook up to the bowstring as you draw it down or back,

it is possible to use a regular bathroom scale together with the simple tiller

(p1-2). You place the foot/base of the simple tiller on the bathroom scale

and then you draw the bow down without xing the string. You can now

read the draw weight of the bow on the bathroom scale. The bow limbscan be shortened to increase the draw weight, if you nd that it is lower

than intended. For more information on how to increase the draw weight by

shortening the bow limbs, please read Chapter6 (The ash back longbow).

If you have a certain draw weight in mind, make sure you never, at any

point during the tillering process, exceed your intended draw weight. To

avoid this, it is important to check the draw weight frequently during the

tillering. Drawing your bow beyond the intended draw weight may cause

the belly wood to compress beyond what is desirable or in the worst case

damage the bow limbs. If this happens you could end up with a rather

lifeless bow compared to what it could have been with a little care taken

during the tillering process.

Watch the video clip below to complete the lesson on tillering and become

a tillering wizard.

Click the video frame to watch the video (only in the full version of Making

Traditional Bows).

Tillering is an art only to be mastered through practice. Making a bow that

is too light in draw weight in the pursuit of perfection is a common mistake

when rst starting out, and is caused by excessive wood removal. Making

a functional bow, that may not be bending perfectly in your rst attempt,

is in my opinion better than attempting to achieve perfection. More often

than not you will end up with a bow that cannot cast an arrow past the tip

of your shoe. So do not wear sandals. I would like to spare you the pain of

watching all those hours of work go up in smoke, as you watch your rst

bow making attempt burn in the re place. Keep a close eye on the scales

as you tiller your bow and go for perfection when you have made a few

bows. When you gain more experience, you will also know what you want

from a bow, or maybe even more so, what you do not want.

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5. A uic esn n wo *

Y

ou need a basic knowledge on how to handle and choose the right

wood for your bows. This knowledge includes learning a little about

wood seasoning and the grain of the wood....

Wood seasoning *

Wood grain *



6. Te aminate ng

W

e will now be making a simple laminate longbow and for

illustration I will make two bows with different back laminates one

with bamboo and one with ash.

Before you start I recommend you look through the instructions for makingboth the ash back and the bamboo back longbow regardless, which one

you choose to make. The work processes are quite similar and information

needed may be given in one passage and not in the other. When doing so,

you will also know what to aim for in your minds eye.

First you have to decide whether you want to use bamboo, ash or maybe

even a different type of wood for the back laminate of your bow.

Bamboois very strong intensionand you hardly have to worry about the

grain running off the edges of the laminate. The backlaminate can much

easier be made to have a perfectly straight grain as you only have to think

about the front view plane. Bamboo is in fact a type of grass, but from now

on I will refer to it as wood. Then you saw and le the grass, just does notsound right.

Ashwill also make a greatback laminate and thus a ne bow, but it is not

as strong in tension as bamboo. The bow will have a larger risk of taking a

set, which means the bow limbs may follow the string over time.

Making a thin back laminate of ash without a band saw or circular saw is

hard, if not impossible, and it would also take a very long time. The same

applies to any other back laminate except for bamboo. Thus you will need

to nd someone with the necessary power tools to help you cut the thin

back laminate. I would recommend that you make the back laminate from

bamboo if you cannot get help or are the lucky owner of one of the above

mentioned power tools.

My bows will be in the 40 - 50 pound range, using the dimensions inFig.

2(only full version). If you choose to make a bow with a draw weight of 80

pounds or higher, I recommend the dimensions inFig. 3(only full version).

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When making a 70 pound bow or higher with a draw length of 76 cm (30)

or more, you should also use the dimensions in Fig. 3(only full version).

Before we start, remember it is better to have made a bow that is not all

perfect, than to give up half way because you feel it is getting too difcult.

More experience is often gained by the less perfect bows that you have

made in your time as a bowyer. The next bow you make may turn out justthe way you want it to!

Here we go!

What you need

The bamboo back laminateA bamboolog about 10 - 15 cm (4 - 6) in diameter.

The nished bamboo laminate should be ?? cm (??) (only full version)

in length and must have an equal distance from the ends to the top and

the bottom node of the laminate. Unless you measure this before youbuy the bamboo, it is safer to get a log that is somewhat longer than what

you need. Also get the bamboo log with the longest distance between the

nodes and as few cracks as possible.

If you buy green bamboo and season it yourself, you will need to split

the log open at least once, down the whole length of it, and hammer out

the internal space dividers of the bamboo with for instance the shaft of a

broom. In doing so, the bamboo will not have the same tendency to crack,

as it looses its moisture. I actually do this to all my bamboo logs before I

store them, green or not, just to be on the safe side.

The ash back laminateAnashboard, a plank or a quarter log, cut in such a way that the grain of

the wood is straight and does not run off the edges of the board in front or

side view as mentioned earlier.

The dimensions of the board should, as a minimum be ??? cm (??) (only

full version) in length by ?? cm (??) wide by ?? cm (??) thick (only full

version).

The laminate must be made from the sapwood of the tree, which is the

outer band of light colored wood that can be seen when studying the

cross section of a tree. The darker wood in the centre of the stem is the

heartwood.

Hickory, elmand mapleare other types of wood which may be used as

backing for your bow with no need to change any of the dimensions given

here. Hickory is used by many professional bowyers for bow backing

and is very good and probably also the best of the four types of wood

mentioned. Hickory is harder to come by and also quite expensive, well at

least in Denmark.

The belly laminate *

The glue *

The Form *

The leather handle *The string nocks *



The laminate longbow (ash back) *

The work process *

Making the laminates *Gluing the laminates together *

Marking out the bow *

Cutting out the bow

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Shaping the bow *

Tillering *

Shortening the bow limbs to increase the draw weight *



The nock reinforcements

16.Now we will make some nicelooking nock reinforcements using

a small slice of hardwood (p25+26).

This is by far the easiest way to

reinforce the string nocks. For

information on how you make and

t horn nocks see the description

below on page 40(only full version).

Make 2 small slices of hardwood

about 0.5 cm (3/16) thick, withthe same width as the bow. With

regard to the length, please refer

to the photos (p23-26). At the top nock I have chosen to keep one of the

temporary nock grooves to use with the stringer when bracing the bow

(p23+26).

Use a two component epoxy resin

to glue the 2 slices of hardwood to

the back of the bow as shown in

photo (p 23+24).

When the glue is dry, use a metal

work le and sandpaper to round

everything off to a nice and smooth

nish. Then make the nal nock

grooves with the 4 mm (5/32)

round le. When making the nock

grooves you should le into the face

of the reinforcing slice of hardwood, but do not cut or le into the face of

the bow backing, in this case the ash laminate (p25+26).

Sanding

17.It is now time to sand the whole bow. I do the nal sanding by hand.First use 80 grit sandpaper and make sure that the surface is smooth

and even with no dips. Then run everything over once more, with 120

grit sandpaper. You do not have to sand the back if you did it earlier as

recommended.

The arrow plate

18.Before applying the varnish you have the option of making an arrowplate, which is meant to protect the bow from wear caused by the arrows

passing. It will give the bow a nice

nish (p37 (only full version)). The

plate is not a necessity in this case

as this type of belly wood is quite

resistant to the wear caused by the

arrows.

For this bow I use a piece of bone

to make the arrow plate. The sizeis about 30 mm x 8 mm x 3 mm

(1 3/16 x 5/16 x 1/8). Horn also

works ne.

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Place the bone piece just inside

the handle area in such a way

that you will not be able to see the

lower edge of the bone when the

leather handle is tted (p37 (only

full version)). Mark along the edges

of the bone with a ne tipped pencil(p27). Cut along the markings using

a sharp knife and a steel ruler in

order to avoid splits once you start

working with the chisel. Then use a

chisel to carefully remove the wood

inside the markings to create a hole

about 2 mm (3/32) deep (p28)

with the same shape as your bone

piece. Be very careful when working

with the knife and chisel, otherwise

you can easily damage the bow.

When the piece of bone is tted into

the hole, it should be just above thelevel of the wood (p29). This way

the arrow will only brush against the

bone when it is shot.

Glue the bone piece in place using

a two component epoxy resin. When the glue is dry, le the edges of the

bone down to the level of the wood to give it a nice t into the body of the

bow (p37 (only full version)). Make sure that the centre part of the bone is

still above the level of the wood.

Final sanding and the varnish

19. The nocks are nished and the arrow plate is in place and looking

good. Your rst shooting session is done and the bow still bends nicelywhen set on the tiller. Meaning it is now time to apply the nish!

Before doing so, I run the whole bow over one last time with 180 grit

sandpaper. Some bowyers use 300 - 400 grit sandpaper when doing the

nal sanding.

When you are done sanding and you are certain all dust is removed, you

can apply the nish to protect the bow from moisture and dents. There is a

wide selection of oils and lacquer available, which can be applied by brush,

sponge or by the use of compressed air and sprayed on. Two component

products are often most effective but also more expensive and harder to

come by. A one component oor lacquer or boat lacquer is in my opinionnot a bad choice, as they are quite resistant to both wear and moisture.

Give the bow a few coats of lacquer and you will have a great looking

nish. Remember to add your personal mark, and if you like also the draw

weight and draw length of the bow, in between the coats of lacquer.

Please refer to the instructions included with the product regarding safety and use.

When you are certain the lacquer is dry you are ready to proceed.

The leather handle *I will now show you how to make a sweet looking leather handle, that will

blow the competition away.....


e-book Making Traditional Bows. You may be reading the full version in

only a few minutes - Click here to buy the full version.

Last *

The laminate longbow (bamboo back) *

The work process *

Making the bamboo laminate *

Gluing the laminates together *

Marking out and cutting out the bow *

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Dealing with the nodes of the bamboo *

Removing the rind and shaping the bow *

Tillering *

Making and tting the horn nocks *

Applying the varnish *

Last *

Fig. 2 The laminate longbow *

Fig. 3 The laminate longbow (use for heavy draw weight bow) *

Fig. 2, Fig. 3 and sections marked with a (*) are only included in the full

version of the e-book - Get it now at www.makingtraditionalbows.com

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7. Te flat - Hmegaa tyleThe atbow

The design of the atbow is very old and was developed long before

Christ was born. When making a atbow, it is possible to make astrong and durable selfbow from the weaker types of wood like ash,

elm and maple just to name a few. These types of wood would not perform

well if they were used to make a longbow from one piece of wood. As

mentioned earlier the atbow has wide, thin, and shorter limbs compared

to the longbow.

Now, let us step back in time.

The Holmegaard bow

About 8000 years ago a Mesolithic (Stone Age) hunter was sitting at the

edge of a lake, in what is now called the country of Denmark, and in hishands he was holding a bow. This is the very same complete bow that is

now in the caring hands of the National Museum of Denmark. The hunter

may just have come back from the daily hunt and now taking a well-

deserved rest, having carried his trophy deer through the vast pine forest,

with a thick undergrowth of hazel, which is thought to have surrounded

the lake at the time. The lake of that time was near what today is the town

of Holmegaard. Long ago the lake dried out and it is now a bog, the bog

of Holmegaard. For many years there has been a glassworks right by the

bog. They needed fuel for their furnaces and for a long time they depended

on the peat supply from the bog. During their peat digging activity more

Stone Age settlements have been discovered. Therefore, we have the

glassworks to thank for the great discoveries made in the bog. In 1944 anamazing discovery was made at one of these Stone Age settlements. One

complete bow was found, 154 cm (60 5/8) long, and another incomplete

bow thought to have been around 160 - 170 cm (63 - 67) long was also

found. Other small fragments of bows were also recovered. The bows date

back to around 6000 - 7000 BC.

The rst piece on the Holmegaard bows was written in the year 1945, the

year right after the discovery of the bows. The article was written by C. J.

Becker (1915-2001). C. J. Becker was a Danish archeologist and later he

also became a professor at the University of Copenhagen. As far as I know

Becker participated in the excavation, but I am not aware of the extent

of his involvement. The article was part of an annual collection of articles

published by the National Museum of Denmark. The issue is called Fra

Nationalmuseets Arbejdsmark 1945, but unfortunately for readers with no

knowledge of Danish it is in Danish. I will try to summarize the information

given in this article by one of the rst people who lay hands and eyes on

these very old artifacts. Added are a few of my own comments.

Both of the Mesolithic bows were made fromelm wood, which was not a

common tree at the time. Therefore the wood must have been specially

chosen for the purpose. The advanced layout and construction of these

highly specialized and effective weapons, points towards.........

The missing section is only included in the full version of the e-book

Making Traditional Bows. You may be reading the full version in only a few

minutes - Click here to buy the full version.

........It is my intension to make a bow that is as close to a copy of the real

bow as possible. This will be a great illustration of how to make a selfbow

with the design of a atbow.

Now, I am sure that you are thinking 154 cm (60 5/8) is a short bow, but if

you have ever tried to get a longbow through a thick forest, not to mention

shooting it in one, you will know that a shorter bow would be quite handy insuch a place. A shorter bow is also great to have at a 3D course as there

are often some tricky shots, I think mostly for the amusement of the course

makers.

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Now, let us make the bow.

Fig. 4 High and low crown *

What you need

The staveAn elm woodlog (the stem) about 6 - 10 cm (2 - 3 1/8) in diameter. Larger

logs can be used to make both the Holmegaard bow and the larger atbow

in Fig. 5.

Ashhas many characteristics that are similar to elm and is a great

alternative. Hickoryand mapleare two other ne alternatives. Many other

types of wood can be used for making a atbow as this design is very

forgiving with regard to both strength and quality of the wood so do not be

afraid to experiment with different types of wood.

In Denmark we have had the elm decease for quite a while now, but I was

lucky to acquire a ne straight piece of shadow grown wood with hardlyany knots.

In general, you should avoid knots and nd a log as straight as possible.

If you cannot nd such a perfect piece, then just get the snaky one with all

the knots. You will be amazed by what a ne bow it will make anyway.

When searching for your elm log, it is important that the wood just below

the bark is still intact as it will be the

future back of the bow. If you do not

cut down your own tree, look out for

the small holes in the bark made by

the bark beetle (p1). Especially, if

the wood has been in storage with

the bark still on. If you spot these

beetle holes in the bark, it is very

likely that the wood (the sapwood)

just below the bark is damaged

(p1). Such a damaged piece

Click the video frame to watch the video (only in the full version of Making

Traditional Bows).

of wood can still be used, but you will have to carefully work down the

damaged annual growth ring, until you have one complete and undamaged

ring to use for the back of your bow. Doing this takes time, patience, and

some precision work. If this is not you, avoid the bark beetles!

The size of the what you need list for this bow is short because the one

piece of elm wood is pretty much all you need. This is why you could

certainly justify calling these bows simple. I do wonder, why anyone would

choose to call the Holmegaard bows and other bows alike for primitive

bows. The Mesolithic men created a fantastic performing weapon with

whatever means they had at the time. You may choose to call the bows

simple, but in my opinion primitive is not an appropriate term for these

masterpieces.

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The work process

A large part of the work processes

on how to make bows are similar. I

therefore recommend that you also

read Chapter 6(only full version)

on making the laminate longbowbefore you start making the atbow

as described below.

Before you begin, watch the video

clip - Making the Holmegaard bow.

Removing the bark

1.Remove the bark of the elm log,but be VERY careful not to damage

the wood just below the bark as

this is the future back of the bow

(p2-4). I use a knife to loosenthe bark and then I pull it with my

hands. It was quite easy with my

particular piece as the tree was

felled in the late summer. If you fell

the tree in the winter the inner bark

can be quite laborious to remove as

it was the case with my hazel bow

in Chapter 8.

Seasoning

2.Store your log until it has

reached the desired moisturecontent (around 9 - 12%) if deemed

necessary (read Chapter 5(only full

version)). As mentioned earlier you

can seal the ends of the log with

some paint to keep the wood from

splitting while it loses its moisture.

This technique can be combined

with the tying of a steel wire tightly

around the ends of the log. After

the bark was removed, my log

was stored in the shed for about

2 months. I then split the log once

down the middle (p5) and stored it

inside the house for a few weeks. It

was now ready to be shaped into a

bow with a moisture content of about 11 - 12 %. When you split the stem,

make sure you end up with a piece large enough to t the bow that you

choose to make.

Marking out the bow

3.Study the bow stave (it is now a stave) to gure out where to positionthe layout of the bow in order to get as few knots as possible in your

nished product. Also try to get the two bow limbs as symmetrically looking

as possible. My stave had two small deex curves, so I placed the handle

midway between them to get the bow limbs as symmetrically looking as

possible (p12+13 (only full version)). When doing so, it is more likely that

the limbs will bend evenly and the bow will be easier to tiller.

4.Draw a center line down thewhole length of the stave (p6).

Make sure it does not twist;

otherwise the grain will be cut. Use

a string to check whether the line is

straight or mark along the string.

5.Mark out the back of the bowwith reference to the center line,

using the dimensions inTable 2

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(only full version) or Fig 5(only full version), depending on which bow you

are making (p7 (only full version)).

6.Mark out the belly tapers (p8+9 (only full version)). Again, by using thedimensions in either Table 2 or Fig. 5 (only full version).

Cutting out the bow *Shaping the limbs *

Tillering *

Final sanding *

Last *

Some comments on the making of the Holmegaard atbow *

The Holmegaard bow test shoot *

Table 1:

The dimensions of the original Holmegaard bow (6000 BC) *

Table 2:

The dimensions of the replica Holmegaard bow (2010) *

Fig. 5The larger atbow *



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8. Hael wo el T

o make a hazel wood selfbow, like the ones I made in my childhood,

is something that I have wanted to do for some time now. Back in my

childhood days, we made all our bows from hazel wood, as hazel

grew widely along the forest next to our house. It was always easy to nda straight stave to make a bow from. Being kids, we did not have the time

or the patience to season the wood nor did we have the knowledge of

the advantage gained by using seasoned wood. At that time we actually

did not know anything about making bows at all, but our experience was

growing rapidly with the many attempts........

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.......The whole project was nished in a day not counting the time it took

to season the wood. This bow is very easy to make and could be a fun

little something to do with your friends or your kids. At the end of the day,

you could make a contest to see who can get an arrow to y the

furthest using your newly constructed bows.

You could try straining the wood to its maximum capability,

just as I did, to get your arrows to y as far as possible. I

ended up with quite a good bow and I am sure this

bow will last longer than the day. Well, it already

did. Therefore, the bow has both outlived and

outshot my many childhood attempts.

The dimensions of the Hazel bow *



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9. Te Femih wi trinY

ou need a bowstring for your bow, and the most traditional type

of string is the Flemish twist bowstring. In my opinion the Flemish

twist bowstring is the best suitable bowstring for all traditional bows,

and consequently the only type of string I will cover here. Traditionally,the bowstrings were made from materials such as linen and hemp, which

were not as reliable and durable as the modern materials that are available

today. Due to the poorer durability of the bowstrings back in time, the

strings had a greater tendency to fail and break. When a bowstring breaks,

it often means that the bow is also damaged to a certain extent, so this is a

serious issue.

Making a Flemish twist bowstring is much easier when you use a string

jig. I therefore recommend that you make one referring to Fig. 6and the

photos (p1-3). The time spent making the jig is easily gained when you

make the bowstrings using the jig compared to making a bowstring without

the aid of a string jig.

What you need

The string materialDacron B50 or Fast Flight.

Dacron is the cheaper option and to my knowledge the most commonly

used string material. Dacron does not have the same high performance as

Fast Flight, partly because it is a more stretchy material. Fast Flight has a

tendency to increase the shooting distance, but Dacron is said to be more

forgiving on a shorter distance shoot. Mostly, I use Dacron because it is

inexpensive, functions well and is what I have gotten used to.

Materials for the string jigRefer to Fig. 6and photo (p1-3). My jig is made from fairly cheap pine

wood.

Other stuff you needBowstring wax.

A serving material for the bowstring.

A serving tool.

The work process

The string jigYou should be able to make the

string jig referring to Fig. 6 and the

photos (p1-3).

The bowstring

I will make a double loop Flemishtwist bowstring.

When making a Dacron bowstring,

the string has to be made 10 - 12.5

cm (4 - 5) shorter than your bow,

measured from one nock to the

other. When making a Fast Flight

bowstring, it has to be made 7.5 -

10 cm (3 - 4) shorter. These are the

gures I use to get the correct string

length. You may need to make

your string a little shorter or longer

depending on your string makingtechnique, and you probably have

to make a few strings to get the

length exactly right.

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Watch and follow the video clip - Making a Flemish twist bowstring.

The bowstring can also be made in two colors, which look really nice but

maybe not so traditional. E.g. when making a 14 strand bowstring, you

simply start with 7 strands of one color string material and 7 strands of a

different color and when cutting the measured strands, you sort the strands

into similar colors in such a way that you have two main strands, each with

a different color.

Number of strands of Dacron or Fast Flight

The string material manufacturer

Brownell recommends 1 twist in the

string for each 5 - 7.5 cm (2 - 3) of

string length.

Fast Flight has a smaller diameter

than Dacron. When serving a Fast

Flight bowstring, you may have tolay a few small pieces of Fast Flight

material under the serving to bulk

up the bowstring. When doing so,

the bowstring will still have a nice t

to the nocks on your arrows despite the smaller diameter of the Fast Flight

string material.

Last

Dacron does have some initial stretch. To eliminate that stretch before

using the string, I hang the nished bowstring from the ceiling with some

weights at the end. I usually let the string stretch overnight.

Always care for your bow string. Wax it with regular intervals, when the

bow is in use. When a string starts to show signs of wear, change it,

Table 3(number of strands)

Draw weight of

the bow

Number of strands

(Dacron or Fast Flight)

- 35 lbs 10

35 - 45 lbs 12

45 - 55 lbs 14

55 - 65 lbs 1665 - 75 lbs 18

75 - 85 lbs 20

85 - 95 lbs 22

because as mentioned earlier, a string that breaks can cause damage to

your bow and in worst case, to your pretty face.

Click the video frame to watch the video.

Fig. 6 The string jig *



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11. Te W ArrS

hortly we will be making a war arrow, which resembles the arrows

used for war in medieval England. It will not be an exact replica of

the arrows as this would make the process more difcult, both with

regard to getting the right materials and making the arrow. It is my intentionto make traditional bow and arrow making easier, therefore we will be

using ready available materials and cut some small corners, all without

losing the sweet feel and look of this ne type of arrow. This arrow design

is in my opinion the most awesome of the various designs which I have

seen during my time as a bowyer. The armor penetrating and fear striking

bodkin arrow head, the long triangular etchingsbound to the shaft and

the beauty of the horn reinforced self nock. Not to mention, the fat battle

shaft with a diameter of 1.3 cm (1/2) at the head.

The medieval battle shaft, like the ones found on The Mary Rose, had a

diameter of 1.3 cm (1/2) at the head and tapered to 0.95 cm (3/8) at the

nock. The longbows that were used for war in those days are estimated to

have had a draw weight of around 100 pounds, which is far greater than

recreational bows today. The greater draw weight also meant that the

archers needed a stiffer arrow than most of us do today, which to some

extent was obtained by increasing the diameter of the arrow shaft. The

greater diameter also increased the mass of the arrow, which in turn meant

more power on impact. The larger mass of the arrow was important and

necessary at the time for the arrow to be able to penetrate plate armor.

Today, only few archers shoot longbows with a draw weight over 60 - 70

pounds and even fewer shoot bows with a draw weight of 100 pounds. A

more common draw weight for a longbow today is around 35 - 60 pounds.

We do not need a great amount of power on impact and our lives do not

depend on the ability of the arrows to penetrate plate armoror chain mail

any longer. I believe this development is a positive thing for our health, butit does not mean that we cannot enjoy this ne type of arrow.

The medieval battle shaft measured 76 - 80 cm (30 - 31 1/2) from the

nockto the shoulder, and it is believed to have been drawn to the ear.

This style of shooting naturally required a longer arrow shaft than when

the arrow had just been drawn to the corner of the mouth. The latter is

the most commonly used anchor point today, resulting in a draw length

of around 71 cm (28). The longer draw to the ear meant more energy

was transferred to the arrow when it was shot, which in turn increased the

shooting distance and probably also the lifespan of the archer. Drawing

the arrow to the ear results in less accuracy than one would have with

a draw to the corner of the mouth, but on a long distance shoot pinpoint

accuracy is not that important, especially if you are shooting at a charging

army. When the enemy came closer a more precise aim would have been

desirable, and at this point of the battle the shorter draw to the corner of

the mouth was probably used. For this shorter distance shot there was no

longer a need for the longer arrow shaft and maybe a different shaft prole

would also have been in place. This theory is supported by the ndings

from the Mary Rose where remains of quivers issued to the archers were

found containing arrow shafts of different length and prole.

The bodkin arrow head, which was used in medieval times, was chosen

for war for its armor penetrating abilities and most likely also for its easeof mass production. This type of arrow head has also been found by

archaeologists in the bogs of Denmark. Some dating back to the year 200

AD, which is the Iron Age, i.e. long before Medieval Times. The arrow head

is also believed to have been used for war purpose then. When

comparing the earliest nds from the Danish bogs of Iron

Age arrow shafts and arrow heads to the later nds, the

earliest nds have a more individual character. This

tells us that the archers from that period probably

made their own equipment. When we study the

arrow heads found from the late 3rd century, they

begin to show signs of standardization and production

in larger quantities. As you may recall, this is also theperiod when the D section longbow was the more

common design found. The ndings from the late 3rd

century combined with other nds like reinforcement of

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