magazine of los realejos (english)
DESCRIPTION
MAGAZINE OF LOS REALEJOS (english)TRANSCRIPT
A PARADISE TO EXPLORE
1. THE CHURCH OF SANTIAGO APOSTOL
According to the historian Millares Torres:”On the morning of July 25th, when the church
celebrates the Santiago festivity, five Guanche kings-Bencomo, Beneharo, Acaymo, Tegueste and Zebenzui
– went across the ravine which separated one camp from the other. There the general came to meet them
with open flags, small drums, bugles and, accompanied by some of his main officers, he kindly embraced
Bencomo”. This event led to the completion of the conquest and final incorporation of the Canary Islands
to the Kingdom of Castile. Castilians very soon laid down the foundations of a church and set about
building it “with the magnificence that time and their situation permitted”.
This it was possible to consecrate the first Christian church in Tenerife, the current one of Santiago
Apóstol in Realejo alto, from whose rough baptismal font, and according to a very ancient tradition
followed by the poet Antonio Viana and the historians Juan Núñez de la Peña and José de Viera y Clavijo,
the nine valiant Guanche Menceys, together with many other distinguished natives, received the waters of
baptism.
The recommended visit to the town of Los Realejos starts in the Church of Santiago Apóstol,
situated in between the avenue of Los Remedios and the road of El Medio de Arriba. It was declared
National Historical Monument in 1983 and has got among its valuable artistic treasures the oldest pieces
which remain in the Orotava Valley, “the triptych of Santiago”, a Flemish piece of the first quarter of the
XVI century and ascribed to the master de Delft.
Having its origin in a first building covered by a simple thatched roof, a temple of three naves was
erected, where the central one was designed by Juan Benítez in the first decade of the XVII century. The
main chapel was finished about 1667.
The following bodies were raised in successive stages, whose works finished around 1730. Forty
years later the tower is elevated ending in a sharp – pointed spire, which nowadays has turned into a
symbol of the municipality.
In the inner part we can
contemplate valuable artistic pieces
coming from local and foreign
workshop. So we can emphasise,
besides the above – mentioned
Triptych of Santiago, the
altarpieces of El Nazareno, La
Misericordia, our lady of Los
Remedios or that of Santa Bárbara
among others; the pictorial pieces,
sculptures and processional images,
likewise a great number of
craftsmanship pieces in precious
metals, among the most
outstanding, it is the filigree work
Cross from 1677.
It is worth noting, in the
same way, the three stonework
fronts, the main one that from the
primitive factory with Renaissance
shapes. The one in the southern
flank, raised by Manuel Penedo in
1627, and the one in the northern
flank related to its homonyms of
the nearby church of Our Lady of
the Immaculate Conception, which presents classicistic influences.
In front of this temple, surrounded by the square devoted to Viera y Clavijo, stands the building
which some years ago was the old Town Hall and where nowadays the municipal library is placed.
2. CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF EL CARMEN
The stretch
situated at the end of
La Alhondiga road
leads to the stairs that
allow us to see a carved
sculpture made of stone,
which represents the
shape of a seagull that
pays tribute to the
seamen. There we find
the Church of Our Lady
of El Carmen, a church
which was planned in
1955 by Tomás
Machado in the place
where the concent of the
retiring Augustinian
nuns of St Andrés and
St Mónica had been
erected, the last convent
founded in the Canarias
and the only one that
belongs to that order,
unfortunately
disappeared after a fire
which took place in
1952.
It has nothing
to do with the original
frame, since it was
completely designed
according to the Lady of El Carmen, which had to be the center of interest of the temple. Not in vain she is
the Honorary and Perpetual Lady of Los Realejos and the Saint Patron of the Orotava Valley. From the
old work it only incorporated its doorway. It also keeps the image of Saint Augustine, assigned to
Rodrìguez de la Olivia, the ones of St Andrew and St Mònica, attributed to Làzaro Gonzàlez de Ocampo
(1651 – 1714), the Lord of the Garden, anonymous work of the XVII century, coming from the Franciscan
ex-convent, an ivory crucified Lord and the portrait of the founder, Juan de Gordejuela.
3. THE CHURCH OF LA CONCEPCIÓN
It is always advisable to walk around the narrow roads full of charm and nice surprises in the
centre of the historical setting. To discover the houses of La Acequia road or the Toste one, or to observe the
Parochial House situated in Cantillo de abajo road is an itinerary worth doing.
By coming down Guillerme Camacho and Pérez Galdós road becomes visible the squire that
surrounds the Church of La Concepción, the second most important in the municipality.
An old Hermitage dedicated to Our Lady, build in the XVI century, was the predecessor of the
current church of the three naves. Its last construction stage dates between 1697 and 1701. A fire taking
place in 1978 destroyed the whole building, losing forever its precious covered ceilings of Mudejar origin,
baroque and neo – classical altarpieces, like the one of Our Lady of El Rosario, Sculptures from different
schools, like the one of Our Lady of La Candelaria, by Martínez Montañéz, or that of Our Lady of the
Afflicted, ascribed to Martín de Andújar, as well as the cancases which recalled the paintbrush of the
Canarian painter Hernández de Quintana), among them we emphasise the picture Ánimas, which shared
the altar which the carving of St Michael the Archangel (XVI century).
Two Mary images were recovered, the one of Our Lady of El Rosario and La Dolorosa. The first
one is likely to have come out of the workshop of Pereira, sculptor of Madrid of the XVII century. La
Dolorosa, work of art which was probably made by Rodríguez de la Oliva (+1777), was a part of the
Calvary located in the nave of the Gospel. The pieces of craftsmanship which could be rescued from the fire
are also importand and among them we stand out the Franciscan gilded silver custody, of the second half
of the XVIII century, and the processional Cross, made in 1563 by Francisco de Soto.
The above – mentioned fire did not seriously affect the stonework doors; the lateral door shows a
classical pediment over
pilasters which are very
similar to the Portuguese
manuelino ones.
The door
corresponding to the
Gospel nave presents in its
upper section two – raised
pattern busts, inside two
stone medallions, that
according to the tradition
symbolize Alonso
Fernández de Lugo and
king Bencomo. The small
Gothic door with a cone
arch that belonged to the
ancient vestry is worth
mentioning too.
The tower, which
was raised in the main
front, was moved to the
southern flank of the
building after its restoration. It was open again to workshop in 1993. Nowadays it is the target of a
reproduction plan of imagery and altarpieces.
The stairs located in the left side of square were built lead to the gardens where we find two
splendid samples of dragon tree, so called “Twin Dragon Tree” because of their resemblance.
Once on the road we must turn right to go along La Alhóndiga road.
4. SAN FRANCISCO DRAGON TREE
Then, after an amusing walk, the descent reaches the road Viera y Clavijo, called that way since it
was in the number 101 of that road where the illustrious writer was born. The road to the San Francisco
dragon tree is short. We find there the graveyard of San Fransisco de Asis, which is placed in the missing
Santa Lucia monastery of Franciscan order ,built at the beginning of the XVII century and destroyed by
the effect of fire in 1865.Inside its walls it is raised the stonework door of that monastery.
The San Francisco dragon tree, placed in an upper part, where El Medio and Cruz Verde roads
converge, is after the dragon tree of Icod de los Vinos, the most beautiful in the Canary Islands. About it,
travellers and writers from other ages have said that “ its appearance is strange, it could be said it is as a
huge candelabrum standing up a yucca forest. It is certainly one of the strangest vegetables in all the
creation and many have believed to have seen under its cover ,the image of the dragon of the fable ,
guardian of the gold apples from the “Hesperides Garden’’. From the gardens surrounding this magnificent
specimen the view does never disappoint. On side, a part of the municipality of Los Realejos and its
neighbouring town Puerto de la Cruz; on the other, the mountains and the hillside of Tigaiga, which ends
in the mouth of the ravine.
5.THE MENCEY BENTOR SCULPTURE
The view is spectacular from the viewpoint of
the Lance where the statue, as the high altitude where
it is located makes it dominates breathtaking scenery
from the mountain to the coast. Bentor, King of Taoro
and son of Bencomo, was the last native king mencey
or confronted by the ar more to the conquest of Tenerife
by Alonso Fernandez de Lugo, the Head of the
Catholic Monarchs in the islands. Must have been born
about 1463 and died after the Second Battle of
Acentejo in December 1494, following the ritual
suicide Guanche, tumbling down the side of Tigaiga.
With his death, he concluded the conquest of the
Canary Islands. During the Battle of Aguere , the
leader of the faction wars and King of Taoro,
Bemcomo, was killed, and the people of Taoro named
his son, Bentor as new mencey and leader. He refused
to surrender to the troops sent by the Catholic
Monarchs, despite the large number of military dead
Guanche, as explained by the declaration of the
witnesses provided by Margarita Guanarteme (1526), indicating that action as " killing the King Great was
called the King of Taoro Venitomo, and Don Alonso de Lugo sent Fernando Guanarteme so it would look
with King Bentor Venitomo son to require is back with the answer give the new king did not want to .
"The tagoror Bentor elected as the new mencey, and he was prepared to resist. A month later,
Fernandez de Lugo entered from the north of the island towards Taoro where Bentor, commanding some
6,000 warriors awaited Guanches in a ravine of the present municipality of La Victoria de Acentejo , near
the place where there had been a great victory Guanche months ago. But Fernandez de Lugo wanted to
ensure the victory So he divided the army into two groups, the first of them with guns and crossbows and
cavalry on the flanks. The victory of the troops of Lugo was all, in what is also called the Second Battle of
Acentejo and the collapse of the aboriginal resistance. Bentor committed suicide following the Guanche
ritual by jumping of the slope of Tigaiga, in the present municipality of Los Realejos. The conquest of
Tenerife was consummated, although the island is not formally joined to the crown of Castile until the
summer of 1496. Bentor had several children with his wife Hañagua: Deríman, Ramagua and Collarampa.
Deríman after being baptized by the Catholic rite, who was imposed the name of Christopher Hernandez
Taoro, later adopted his grandfather’s surname, calling himself Christopher Bencomo. He moved to Seville
where he studied law.
6.HOLY WEEK
Holy Week has turned into one of the most splendid celebrations among all those that take place in our municipality all over the year.
The number of fraternities and brotherhoods set up in the last decades, likewise the acquisition of a
huge amount of new images, together with those ones of a great artistic value the town already had got,
have made Holy Week in Los Realejos be followed every year by a arge number of visitors and faithful
people aware of the showiness that goes on increasing with regard to the touristic resource.
7. EXALTATION OF THE CROSS
Leaving behind that building we find the road of El Medio de Arriba which still preserves a large
amount of its old houses. This road, besides the neighboring road of El Sol are famous because of the
celebrations on the 3rd of May upon the Cross devotion, the feasts which are well known in the
municipality and that stand out above all in the town nucleus of La Cruz Santa.
Nowad
ays, Los Realejos
has all over the
municipality
about three
hundreds of that
Christian
symbol, which
are present at
chapels, temples,
private houses,
in the heads of
streets, rocks and
cliffs in the sea
and in the forest,
roads of service
and royal roads, viewpoints or simply stuck in the ground, as identity signs of the Village.
The flower branches are an essential part of the celebration on the special 3rd of May. Chapels,
hermitages and crosses on the walls, irrespective of their location, wake up in their best dresses.
The great pyrotechnic exhibition takes place after evening, with a “pique”(competition) between the
two roads and is regarded as one of the greatest and most important in Europe, assembling for about three
hours thousands of visitors, who follow that show from the roads, borders, squares and other corners of the
municipality. Some Scholars point out that this “pique” comes from 1770 and the existence of two well
distinguished social classes: the owners of the lands where El Medio road passes, and the owners of the
adjoining properties and the poor peasants of El Sol road. In the middle of El Medio de Arriba road, we
find the crossroad that leads to El Lance and Icod el Alto. This is the legendary place where Mencey Bentor
jumped off the cliff to avoid being prisoner of the Spanish at the end of the conquest of Tenerife. Therefore,
there is a sculpture devoted to him placed in the viewpoint of El Lance, where we can also enjoy a splendid
overall view of the Orotava Valley. Coming back to the crossroad, in the road called Travesia El Pino, we
find a couple of barbuzano and centenarian pine trees which show their magnificence to anyone who goes
along.
8.THROUGH RAMBLA DE CASTRO
This is one of the most peculiar natural settings of the Canaries. The route starts in the viewpoint of San Pedro, coming from the Northern main road and from there a wonderful overall view of the area can be contemplated. From the viewpoint two roads split up. The first of them, on the left, roams along the line of the ancient royal road which ends in the coast, going across the hermitage of San Pedro, a building which dates from the XVIII century and from its
terrace we can observe another majestic view of the coastline.
The return allows us the access to the
second footpath, which we will find from the parking area, and in the direction to the coast. In the first turn there are nice panoramic views of both the group of dwellings Las Pamblas del Mar and Babon. The following crossing of the road, taking the turning to the right, leads to one of the most beautiful palm groves of Tenerife, in the central point of the ravine of Castro and a scarcely some metres from its country estate.
In the old entailed Estate of Castro,
which offers lands of a special charm, the sound of the sea is often passed over in silence by the singing of the birds. Its gardens, with leafy palm trees, where the admiration of many travellers and illustrious visitors, like Berthelot, Lecrercq, Hans Meyer, Carballo Wanguemert, etc.
The route, once the palm grove of the ravine is crossed over, goes on through the footpath until the Fortress of San Fernando, a small defensive construction which, due to its strategic position, helped to defend the coastline from the attacks of the corsairs and pirates who very often came to this side of the island, which nowadays has 3 days of the 5 cannons which originally made up its loophole.
At this point, there are several choices for the traveler, since there is the possibility of deciding
between doing the descent down to the beaches of Castroand La Fajana, visiting the Water Elevator of La
Gordejuela, going on through the main footpath to the beach of Los Roques or coming back to the
viewpoint of San Pedro, the starting point of this tour.
9.VITICULTURE
Los Realejos is
regarded as the “cathedral of
the white wine”, and largely
recognized by the vine experts
of the archipelago. This type
of wine, like the one of the
Orotava Valley, has enjoyed
well-deserved fame
throughout their history,
since it was the first
viticulture center in the
Canaries. In the XVII and
XVIII centuries these wines
were exported to England
and its colonies, Germany,
Holland and Latin America.
The vineyards were so
extensive that the illustrious
son of Los Realejos, Viera y
Clavijo, was moved to write
that the entire valley was one
immense tapestry of wines.
At present, this sector is
growing up together with the
one of gastronomy,
characterized by a wide
network of cooking
establishment of any kind,
although headed by our
traditional “guachinches”,
typical and pleasant sites
where everybody can taste the best home-made food and the home-grown wine.
Every year, during September, the Vintage Festivity is celebrated in the town nucleus of
La Cruz Santa, an event that attempts to approach the overall history of our wine-making tradition to the
visitors.
10.FESTIVITY OF SAN ISIDRO LABRADOR
The local pilgrimage of San
Isidro Labrador and Santa Maria de la
Cabeza, regarded as a festival of National
Tourist Interest, is one of the main
entertainments of May Feasts. The fervor
of the countrymen of Los Realejos towards
this Saint comes from the XVII century
because of the spreading of the miracles and
legends, after his canonization in 1622 by
the Pope Gregory XV. During this festivity
the participants wear traditional clothes
and the bands of musicians and dancers
multiply besides the embellished carriages
and peasant wagons together with groups
of people singing and dancing in front of
the images of their Saint Patrons.
11.FESTIVITY OF EL CARMEN
In July the most important meeting takes place in the Sanctuary of El Carmen, where the
image of Our Lady of El Carmen, Genovese work coming from the workshop of Anton Maria Mariagliano
in 1726, becomes the central point of religious devotion throughout the Orotova Valley. With regard to the
extensive cultural and festive program, which happens every year and lasts about a month, the most
outstanding event of the feast is the one of the Octava Procession, where the image is carried on the
shoulders of the seamen of Puerto de la Cruz.
12.EL SOCORRO BEACH
The descent to the beach of El Socorro ends in a long avenue, which leads to a big creek of black
sand, which is well-known among the local people of the northern region of Tenerife. Because of its natural
conditions it is suitable for the practice of sea sports.
The sport which has a large number of enthusiastic people is surfing, and thanks to those people, El
Socorro beach has got fame and prestige among the experts of Europe. Together with the formation of
waves all over the year and the nice temperatures, surfing and other activities make El Socorro beach an
ideal place to enjoy.
Here, several surfing, longboard and bodyboard championships take place very year. July, August
and September are the habitual months chosen for these competitions, standing out among them the regional
and national trials like the O’Neill award.
13. LA CORONA VIEWPOINT
Located in the slope of Tigaiga , in the area of Icod el Alto, the viewpoint of La Corona constitutes
a unique setting from where an overall view of the Orotava Valley and the north-western side of the island
can be observed. Because of its position, height and flight conditions it is one of the best places of the
Canaries for the practice of paragliding and hand-gliding
The Village of Los Realejos is an excellent paradise to practice alternative sports, dealing with
adventure and in contact with nature. Because of the amount of naties, arranged to guide all those persons
interested in the practice of this type of sports, we find out an ideal destination which comprises in a short
space, all the necessary elements to make lovers of nature and adventure live unforgettable experiences.
Among them, we have to stand out the important consideration paragliding has got. This
alternative sport, associated to lovers of nature and free hand gliding, make Los Realejos a special place for
its practice in the best circumstances all over the year. The softness of the weather conditions of the region,
the characteristics of the setting and the orientation of the strong blowing winds play an important role for
the activity of paragliding. In La Corona viewpoint, where a big slope situated 750 metres over the sea
level has been built, the paragliders can fly during hours and play with the soft clouds of the alisio winds,
enjoying a majestic view which goes from the Teno Hillside, in the municipality of Buenavista, to Anaga, in
Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
The Canarian Archipelago, near by the tropic of Cancer, allows the practice of diving all over the
year, another type of sport which has been growing in importance in that region. The clearness of water,
with a very good visibility throughout the year (from 15 to 20 metres in winter and over 40 or 50 metres in
summer) and the variety of fish species, make the coastline of the Village, and the Guindaste area, a
paradise to observe and take photos of the submarine lives.
With an average water temperature of 19◦ in February and the 23◦ in August, the activity of
diving will always turn into a nice one. The most outstanding and famous spot is the Baja of Los Realejos,
a big basaltic rock under water, placed 10 metres under the syrface and which falls down 70 metres deep.
It is a suitable place for all divers and it is remarkable because of the large amount of the large
amount of caves, stone arches and tunnels, rock made steps and abysses which take the form of big sunken
stone organs, which together with the flora and fauna varieties turn into original and indelible shapes,
which amaze those who look at them. Besides the previous ones, there are other sport practices, which are
advisable to do in Los Realejos, such as tracking and horse riding, activities that allow going through the
town enjoying the splendid surroundings, across the fit equipped roads, or on food through the wide
network of footpaths which goes from the coastline to the mountains. Apnoea, mountain bike, underwater
fishing and other disciplines complete the large sport offer in the village of Los Realejos.
14. WATER ELEVATOR OF LA GORDEJUELA
The second choice, which starts in Castro Ravine, leads the traveler through the Water Footpath
down to the Water Elevator of La Gordejuela. To enter this old factory, situated in a natural setting of a
great beauty, it is necessary to turn right and begin the slope that winds up to the factory, which was the
place of the first steam machine in Tenerife, set up by the Hamilton house in 1903 with the aim at bringing
water to the banana plantation areas in the Orotava Valley. The water footpath does not finish in that
place but it surrounds the coastline of the protected Landscape of Rambla de Castro as far as the beach of
Los Roques, leaving behind the Callao de Mendez, Callao Gordo and Pejes Reyes, three of the most
outstanding settings of the coastline.
15. NATURAL POOLS OF EL GUINDASTE
From the viewpoint of San Pedro stands out the Punta de Guindaste, a small border of land, which
spreads out to the sea. We came to E Guindaste through the slope of el Socorro. The first turn on the right
crosses over the banana plantations landscape and a small country dewing to a number of stairs which
make easy the access to the sea, where the traveler finds a privileged place to enjoy the underwater and
diving: the natural pools of El Guindaste.