industrial attach

Chapter One

Company Profile

Introduction of Company

NIAGARA Textiles Ltd. is one of the leading Textile products manufacturing company in Bangladesh.Fig-01: Niagara Textile Ltd.The company is managed by a group of dynamic professionals, working proactively in a challenging environment. NIAGARA is committed to provide excellent services to its clients. It is dedicated to focus on quality in order to excel in its performance. They make every effort to delight their customers by producing best quality Textile products at a finest price through efficient utilization of available resources. They manufacture and export high quality textile products at a rational price produced in an environmental friendly process and working high level of honesty and justice in dealing with our stakeholders. Their mission is to provide excellent quality and value added textile products at a competitive price for ultimate satisfaction of our customers.Since 1980 to till date the Apparel sector of Bangladesh has passed through different huddles & obstacles and now has reached a stage where it can compete with all its competitors in price and quality as well as variety. In this situation, Niagara Textiles Ltd. is a vertically set up textiles unit, which starts its operation in 2001 from knitting and ships the end product i.e. garments. The factory is well operational with high performance machinery and experienced technicians are engaged here to ensure the quality and customer satisfaction. They can produce international standard fabric and garments.

Dhaka EPZNandan ParkLocation Map From BUBT to NTL

NiagaraTextileLtd.

FantasyKingdomSaver GolfClub

Gabtali BusStand

NationalZoo

Bangladesh-KoreaTechnicalInstitute

SonyCinemaBUBT2ndCampus

BUBTPermanentCampus

Layout NIAGARA TEXTILE LIMITED

W.T.PTraining building( Steel building-2 )Floor-3 finishing, Floor-2 cutting, Floor-1 carton store/grey store/organic store

(Steel Building-3) Finishing

Building-1*Floor -7 gmts store/dining*Floor-6,5,4,3 sewing *Floor-2 office/ prayer/sample*Floor-1 knittingDyeing sectionFinishing section

(Steel building-1)Yarn storeMedical and day care centre

Chemical storeGrey fabric inspection room

Brush roomCompressor roomE.T.P

Electrical workshop

Generator room

H.R.DStore roomReceived roomGas sub- station roomReceip-tionSecurity room Building-2

Boiler roomMechanical workshop *Floor-7 Dining *Floor-6,5,4,3 Sewing *Floor-2 Printing *Floor-1 Knitting

Dhaka Tangail Road

West North South East

General Information

Name of the factory: NIAGARA TEXTILE LTD.(NTL).

Owner of the factory: Mr. Ahsan Habib, Chairman Mr. Nurul Hasan Mukti, M.D. Mr.Abu Baker Siddique, Director Mr. Shahinur Islam Zinnah, Director

Location of the factory: Chandra Circle, Union-Atabaha, Kaliakoir, Gazipur.

Head office: 27 Bijoy Nagar,Suite#C-1(1st floor),Dhaka-1000.

Commertial Production Started: 2001.

Business Line: Manufacturing & Marketing of high quality Knitted fabric.

Manpower: 4500 employees (Approx)

Member of :

Bangladesh Knitwear Manufactures & Exporters Association (BKMEA). Bangladesh Garment Manufactures & Exporters Association (BGMEA). Industrial & Business Welfare Foundation (IBWF).

Vision:To be the most ideal garment and building a true marketing with motivated workforce, innovative vision, and strong revenue based product, customer satisfaction & understand of global market.

Mission:To provide customized sourcing and logistics solutions to global clients having unique requirements. To achieve consistent high quality levels and on-time delivery schedules, through a team of committed personnel and a proven set of vendors with World Class, systematic manufacturing facilities.To open window for new avenue of business diver sit and development team always keen to deal new type of product apart from garments and textile items.

Product Range of NTL1. Fabric2. Long Wear3. Active Wear4. Sleep Wear5. Athletic Wear6. Sports Wear7. Under Wear

NTL has categorized its products in two main categories which are known as:1. Tops2. Bottoms

TOPS High Neck Polo Shirt T- Shirt V- Neck Raglan Shirt Jacket Tank Top

BOTTOMS Pant Short Trouser Underwear

Production capacity:

Garments Division (60,000 Pcs ready made garments per day ) Knitting Section (Capacity: 20,000 kg/day) Dyeing & Finishing Section (Capacity: 20,000 kg/day) Printing Section (Capacity:50000 Pcs/day-One Color Basic Rubber Print)

Export Countries:

Banking Information:Bank used for L.CAwards & Certificates:1)

Best Compliant Factory 2008 by BKMEA2)

WRAP(Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production)

3)

OekoTex 100(OEKO-TEX Standard 100)

4)

OE 100(Organic Exchange 100)5)

OE BLENDED (Organic Exchange Blended)

6)

BSCI (Business Social Compliance Issues)Facility:

Here are some existing facilities given below:

Pure Drinking Water Supply

Dining Hall

Auto Attendance

CAD/CAM

ERP

Own Covered Van

In house printing

Well Equipped Lab

Full Time Medical

Baby Day Care

Transportation

Fully Compliant

Physical Infrastructure

1) Two concrete building (seven storied)2) Three steel buildingPower produce by gas generator and petrol generator

Area details :

Building-1( Knitting,Office,Sewing,Garment store,Dining) -------------9000sft/floor

Building-2(Knitting collar,Printing,Sewing,Dining)----------------------5500sft/floor

Steel building 1(Bonded warehouse )---------------------------------------40,000 sft

Steel building 2( Grey store,Cutting,Garments finishing )--------------18500sft/floor

Dyeing & finishing(1)--------------------------------------------------------20000sft

Steel building 3 (Dyeing,finishing 2)--------------------------------------14000sft

Grand Total = 2, 08,500 sft

Different Departments:

Production Oriented Department: Yarn store Raw fabric store & Raw fabric inspection section Knitting Planning & Control Batching Chemical store Dyeing Section Finishing Section Dyeing lab section Wet lab Garments Section Quality Control Maintenance Utility Water treatment plant

Supporting department: Merchandising Marketing Compliance IT HRD Finance & accounting Medical Personnel Administration

NTL Present Clients:

Chapter Two

Management System

Organogram of knitting section

Organogram of Dyeing section:

Organogram of Dyeing Finishing Section: Organogram of Garment Production Section:

Table-01: Manpower of NTLSectionMaleFemaleTotal

Office Staff60516621

Admin13082212

Boiler67067

Knitting96096

Dyeing4080408

Cutting13879217

Printing185775

Sewing53416132147

Finishing355140495

Total235119874338

Table-02:Shift Change (only for Dyeing and Knitting section):General shift is applicable for some officers.ShiftFromTo

A6am2pm

B_2pm10am

C_10pm6am

General Shift8am5pm

Management System:

Buyer sample is send to G.M. Matching is done by lab in charge. Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing master. Sample is send to the buyer for approval. Approved sample is returned and taken as standard sample for bulk production. Asst. dyeing master gives responsibilities to production officer. Then production officer, with the supervisors start bulk production. On line and off line quality check is done by lab in charge and asst. dyeing master. After dyeing finishing in charge controls the finishing process with the supervision of production officer. After finishing, the material is checked by asst. dyeing master. Finally G.M. checks the result with asst. dyeing master and decision is taken for delivery.The Activities of Human Resource Department: Human resources planning Staffing Training & Development Compensation Management Employee Evaluation Employee Movement and ReplacementDuties & Responsibilities of Different DesignationManaging Director: To deal with the buyer and merchandiser. To set up price for the product. To plan apply and control all administrative functions. To follow up the instruction of managing director and chairman.General Manager: He meets with marketing team for future orders, present order status, and product costing and to discuss capacity status of the factory/s.He takes decision to accept any order or not when there is less margin. He handles production issues and when required he can directly contact to buyer for approval of variations. Production planning, Material planning and machinery planning is done or reviewed by him. For the reduction of making cost and production friendly samples, he changes technical setting of the garment. He attends pre-production meeting and ensure that important points are discussed at meeting. He does follow up day to day production from each line and ensures that production units meet the production target. He ensures that factory produces quality product at minimum alteration and repair cost. He ensures that only quality goods are shipped to the buyers. He plans shipment dispatch with documentation and shipping department. He checks manpower costing of each floor and try to keep manpower cost under control. Cost cutting is continuous goal to a General Manager. He looks into things possible ways where production cost can be minimized and goes for it. To motivate employees and enrich their knowledge in certain areas training program is arranged by him. He makes sure that all factories are compliance as per buyer. He ensures smooth flow of information and material from one department to another. He resolves inter-departmental issues if there is any.Manager: To supervise the personal working under him To plan the sequence of production To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems. To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production? To follow up the instruction of Managing Director and Executive Director as well.Duties & Responsibilities of DGM (production): Has the responsibilities for running the garment department including production planning, operation control, measuring and monitoring of product and the process. Inspection test status, taking corrective and preventive action. Controlling nonconforming products at intermediate and final stages in Garment Department. Analyzing product and process performance form measurement process to identify area for improvement.Production Manager: Receives cutting fabrics according style, color and size formcutting section Prepare sewing lines of floor & report to A.G.M. in three time every day. Distribute the cutting fabrics according to style, size & color to the respective line supervisors. Control the Sewing In charge, Q.C, Assist Q.C., supervisor, Asst. Supervisor, quality Inspector, Operator & helper. Maintain floor discipline & cleanness. Any other works as & when required by the management.

Quality Check (Sewing):

Check every complete garment, oil mark, dirty spot, yarn marks, fabric fault. Check the ironing of complete garment. Control the measurement and tolerance. Prepare the pre-final quality control report. Checks getup property. Shade matching base to base & country wise. Any other works as and when required by the management.

Quality Check (Cutting): Prepare batch wise cutting report and send to the authorized person. After complete the fabrics cutting report to A. G. M. of garment. Prepare weekly cutting report. Control the pattern master, Cutting master, Cutting supervisor, Cutting man, Neck man, Cutting helper & Labor Control the cutting quality for bulk production, shrinkage & consumption. Look after the cutting & band knife machine.Sewing in Charge: Receives cutting fabrics according to style, color & size from cutting section. Prepare sewing lines of floor & report to A. G. M. in three time everyday. Distribute the cutting fabrics according to style, size & color to the respective line supervisors. Control the sewing in charge Q.C., Asst. Supervisor,quality inspector, operator & helper. Maintain floor discipline & cleanness. Any other works as & when required by the management

Chapter Three

Machine Description

Knitting Section

Table-03: Flat knitting machine ( Machine Specification):

SL. NOBrand NameModelMachine GaugePowerLengthOrigin

01KAUO HENGKH-31314220V54TAIWAN


























27JY LEHJS-10114220V80TAIWAN

28JY LEHJS-10114220V80TAIWAN

Table-04: Circular knitting machine (Machine Specification):

NoBrand NameMachineTypeMachineDiaMachineGaugeOrigin

01PAI LUNGDouble Jersey3618TAIWAN




05PAI LUNGSingle Jersey3424TAIWAN





10PAI LUNGSingle Jersey 2324TAIWAN





15TERROTDouble Jersey3622GERMANY




19ORIZIODouble Jersey3024ITALY

20ORIZIODouble Jersey3024ITALY






Table-05: Auto Stripe Machine (Machine Specification):

NoManufacturer NameMachineDiaMachine GaugeModelOrigin

01PRECISION FUKUHARA WORKS, LTD.3424VX-RSY3REJAPAN

02PRECISION FUKUHARA WORKS, LTD.3024VX-RSY3REJAPAN

Table-06: Machines used for dyeing labMachine NameBrandOriginCapacity

Sample dyeing machineFONGS HONGKONG



Tumble dryerWhirlpoolAMERICA6 kg

Tumble dryerWhirlpoolAMERICA6 kg

Incubator(perspiration, water, Saliva test machine)memmertGERMANY

Spectro photometerDatacolorUSA

Color fastness to rubbingCrockmasterEngland

PH materHANNAUSA

Shaker machineGFLKOREA

Washing machineWascaterSweden6 kg

Color machine cabinetVerivideEngland

Table-07: Dyeing Machine Specification ( Sample):MachineNoBrandNameCapacityNo. of NozzleMaximumOperatingTemperatureManufacturingYearOrigin

01PMM (Atmospheric Winch)25kg0198c2001Turkey



04ACME (High Temperature Winch)50kg01135c2005Taiwan


06DILMENLER (High Temperature Winch)50kg01135c2005Turkey

Table-08: Dyeing Machine Specification ( Production):

MachineNoBrandNameCapacityNo. of NozzleMaximumOperatingTemperatureManufacturingYearOrigin
















16SCLAVOS300kg01135c2012Greece

Dyeing finishing Section:

Table-09: Hydro-extractor Machine(Machine Specification):

SL. NOBrand NameMachine SpeedWorking WidthMachine TypeYearOrigin

01BENEKS10-80 m/min350mm-1400mmBS.16002001Turkey

Table-10: Dryer machine(Machine Specification):

SL. NOBrand NameNo of BlowerOrigin

01PPM03Turkey

Table-11: Tubular Compactor Machine (Machine Specification):

SL NOBrand NameOrigin

01SERTEKSTurkey (Istanbul)

Compactor temperature depends on fabric construction and GSM.

Table-12: Slitter machine (Machine Specification)

SL NO.Brand NameMaximum Speed (m/min)Construction YearOrigin

01Bianco902013Italy

02Bianco902006Italy

Table-13: Stenter Machine (Machine Specification)

NO. of M/CBrand NameModel NoW/WNo. of BurnerNo. of ChamberNo. of BlowerNo. of MotorManufacturing yearOrigin

02LK & LH CO.LTDFWS-920 TKM

2800mm060612802005Taiwan

Table-14: Textile Compactor Machine (Machine Specification):

NO. OF M/CBrand NameMaximum SpeedTable Width MaximumOrigin

02Bianco30m/min105 inchItaly

Table-15: Compaction Machine Parameter

SL. No.Fabric TypeG.S.MMachine SpeedStream Pressure(BAR)Temperature

01Single Jersey

120-130153-4120c-130c

02Single Jersey

140-160183-4120c-130c

03Single Jersey

160-220203-4120c-130c

04Double Lacost200-220253-4120c-130c

05Single Lacost200-220253-4120c-130c

06Fleece350-360253-4120c-130c

07Fleece380-40025-303-4120c-130c

08L-Single Jersey200-220153-4120c-130c

09Rib200-220153-4120c-130c

1022Rib220-250153-4120c-130c

11Interlock240-260123-4120c-130c

12Cotton/Viscose200-220123-4120c-130c

Table-16: Brush machine (Machine Specification):

SL NO.Brand nameOrigin

01ART-TexTAIWAN

Table-17: Garment washing machine specification:

SL. NO.Brand nameModelPowerYearOrigin

01Flying tigerWA-4

440v2014Taiwan

02Flying tigerWA-4

440v2014Taiwan

Table-18: Tumble dryer machine (Machine Specification):

Machine NO.Brand NameModel NoOrigin

01WHOLE PLANTPT-3Taiwan



04TA TING MECHINERY CO. LTD.TT-120Taiwan

05PEACOCK MECHINERY WORKS CO. LTD.PC-7Taiwan




Garments Section

Table-19: Sewing machine used in sample section:

Machine NameBrand NameQuantity

Lock stitch machineJUKI12

Flat lock machinePEGASUS03

Over lock machinePEGASUS08

Over lock machineJUKI01

Zigzag machineJUKI02

Total=26

Table-20: CAD SL NOMachine NameBrand NameYearOrigin

01CADLectra2006France

02CADLectra2010France

03Digitizing board/Drawing boardLectra2006France

Table-21: Straight Knife Cutting Machine (Specification):SL NO.Brand NameVoltSpeedPhaseBlade LengthOrigin

01Mack2303000/3600110Japan

02Mack2303000/3600110Japan

03Mack2303000/3600110Japan

04Mack2303000/3600110Japan

05Mack2303000/3600110Japan

06Mack2303000/3600110Japan

07Mack2303000/3600110Japan

08Mack2303000/3600110Japan

09Mack2303000/3600110Japan

10Mack2303000/3600110Japan

11Mack2303000/3600108Japan

12Mack2303000/3600108Japan

Table-22: Band knife (Specification):

SL NO.Brand NameCutting capacityWeightVoltKnife sizeOrigin

01KM180mm218kg2203360100.45mmChina

Sewing section

Table-23: Types of machine list

NoTypes of machinesQuantityBrand Name

01Plain machine629Juki

02Flat lock machine174Pegasus, Juki, Amata

03Over lock machine319Pegasus, Juki, Amata

04Back tape6Kansai

05Button stitch19Pegasus

06Snap button9Prym, YK

07Puckding5Kansai

08Rip cutting9Pegasus

09PMD2Kansai

10Bar tack8Juki

11Button hole16Pegasus

12Feed of the arm2Juki

13Re-cone2Hasima

142 Needle plain machine2Juki

15DFD1Kansai

16Zigzag plain machine2Juki

17Cover stitch2Juki

18Smoke (Elastic thread)1Kansai

Total machine1208

Finishing section

Table-24: Thread sucker

SL NO.Brand NameYearOrigin

01UZV2005Thailand

02UZV2005Thailand

03UZV2005Thailand

04UZV2005Thailand

Table-25: Needle Detector Machine

SL NO.Brand NameOrigin

01CINTEXEngland

02PANDORA ASSOCIATESEngland

Printing Section

Table-26: Auto heat pressNO. of M/CBrand NameOrigin

01JupiterChina

Table-27: Curing Machine

NO. of M/CBrand Name

01SIROCO FAN

Table-28: Dryer Machine

NO. of M/CModelBrand NameOrigin

16Fakang 321PhilipsUnited States

Chapter Four

Raw Material

Table-29: Raw material for knitting

Types of yarnCount

Cotton20Ne,24Ne,26Ne,28Ne,30Ne,32Ne,34Ne,36Ne,40Ne,45Ne

Polyester70D,100D,150D

Spandex yarn20D,40D

Grey Melange24Ne,26Ne

Ecru Melange24Ne,26Ne,28Ne

Cotton Melange24Ne,26Ne,28Ne

PC (Polyester 65% & Cotton 35%)24Ne,26Ne,28Ne,30Ne

CVC (Polyester 60% & cotton 40%)24Ne,26Ne,28Ne,30Ne

Raw materials for dyeing:

Raw materials used in the dyeing section are: 1. Grey fabrics 2. Dyes 3. Chemicals.

Raw materials for cutting:

Marker Paper Finished Fabric

Raw materials for sewing:

Garment parts Sewing thread Trims & Accessories

Raw materials for Garment Finishing:

Garments Tag pin Hang tag Poly bag Levels Hanger Carton

Chapter Five

Internship Activity

KNITTING SectionProcess Definition:The fundamental unit of a knitted fabric is the loop. Any circular knitted fabric is composed of row after row of intermeshed loops. Different types of fabric are made of different method of intermeshing the loops. The gross dimension of knitted fabric is simply a reflection of any shape & size of individual loops. There are several key variables in the production which affect the average shape & size of the loops. After knitting the grey fabric is dyed to required shade & finished to required weight & width.

Fig-02: Knitting Section

Process flow chart of knitting:Yarn in cone form

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement & tension device

Knitting

Withdraw the rolled fabric & weighting

Inspection

Numbering

Different Section of Knitting:

KnittingKnitting Section CollarKnitting SectionKnitting Section AKnitting SectionB

Knitting Collar Section

Fig-03: Flat Knitting Machine

Uses of Flat Knitting Machines:

The common products: jumpers, pullovers, cardigans, dresses, suits, trouser suits, hats, scarves, accessories, ribs forstraight-bar machines(fully fashioned machines). Cleaning clothes, three-dimensional and fashioned products for technical applications, multi-axial machines are under development.

Source of yarn for knitting: Sinha rotor spinning ltd. Al-haj karim textile ltd. Padma textile Prime textile FM yarn dyeing ltd. Jamuna spinning Square textile Viyellatex spinning ltd. Delta spinning mills ltd. Apex yarn dyeing

Fig-03: Yarn

Layout of Knitting collar section:

TableTable

Exit

Exit

Self

First aid box North Flat knitting machine(Small)

Flat knitting machine(Large) WestEast

South

Layout of Knitting Section -A

Fabric Inspection Machine

OfficeOffice

Exit

Fabric Store

Exit

South

Circular knitting machine East West Auto stripe machine

North

Layout of Knitting Section -B

Exit

ExitExit

Office

First aid box

Danger electricity South

East West Circular knitting machine

North

FABRIC TYPES:

1)Single Jersey a) Single jersey (Plain) b) Single lacostec) Double lacosted) Polo piquee) Fleece fabric 2)Double jerseya) Rib fabrici) 1x1 Ribii) 2x1 Ribiii) 2x2 Rib Fig-04: Marking after weightiv) Lycra Ribv) Flat Back Rib b) Interlock fabrici) Plain interlockii) Drop needle interlock 3) Back Brush.

4) Collar and Cuffi) Plain Collar or Solid collarii) Shaving Collar.iii) Jacquard Collar.iv) Tipping Collar.v) Race Collar.vi) Stripe Collar. 5) Different decorative single and double jersey fabric. Fig-04: Fabric

Grey fabric store:

They collect grey fabrics from the knitting section and keep in a rack with resister and attach bin card. Before requisition comes from dyeing section they keep it in the store.

Process flow chart of grey fabric store:

(Receive/Keeping/Issue system)

Fabric Receive

Inventory 100% as per challan and maintain resister

Keeping the fabrics on the rack and color wise indicating bin card

Posting in the resister as per buyer

Fig-05: Weighting

Not ok fabric will return to dyeing storeIssue the fabrics as per requisition

Batch Section:

After requisition comes from the dyeing they deliver the grey fabric to the batch section.

Batch Process Flow Chart:

Fabric Received & stored

Fabric Divided according to Diameter after buyers recommendation

Supervisor batches the fabric according to quantity by Calculation

Inspection

Send forDyeing

Function or purpose of batch section:

To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source. To perform the grey inspection. Turn the grey fabric if require.

To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria

Order sheet (Received from buyer) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) M/C capacity M/C available Type of fabrics To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. To keep records for every fabrics before dyeing.

Dyeing Lab

Fig-06: Some equipment of dyeing lab

Layout of Dyeing lab

11910 Table4321

Standard sampleShrinkage board

Exit

Table

Desk

Desk

Almirah

Exit

11

Light boxComputerPrinter765

West

111Machine North South

East

Flow chart of dyeing lab:

Color from buyer

Find color in panton book

Color ? Panton no.

Swatch

Scan swatch in CMC data color machine

Find color in shade book

Match similar color

Select most similar color

Take recipe from shade book

Dyes are selected according to fastness

Recipe preparationReassume recipe based on colorDiference between current color& buyer color

Dye stock/pipeting

Salt dosing

Insert fabric

Soda dosing

Machine for heating

Cooling up to room temp.

Fabrics unload from machine

Cold wash

Hot wash

Dry err/Iron

Shade matching No

Appoved ? Yes

Preparing 3 sample fo buyer

Defining LD no. for each sample

Sent to buyer

Buyer approved ?No

LD no. to merchandiser

Dyeing recipe sheet to dyeingLab Dip

Dyeing Floor

Dyeing Deputy Manager Dyeing Manager Office Office

Exit

HeaterExit

m/c

m/c

m/cm/cm/c

m/cm/cm/c

m/cm/c

m/c

m/cm/c

m/cm/c

m/c

m/cm/c

m/c

m/cm/cm/c

South

m/c Dyeing machine West East

North

Following types of gray fabrics are dyed: Single jersey Single jersey with lycra Polo pique Single lacoste Fleece Interlock Interlock with lycra Rib Rib with lycra Different types of collar & cuff

Fig-07: Dyeing Floor

Fig-07: Unloading Dyed fabric from machine

Dyeing Finishing Section Layout of finishing section: 1

SqueezerOffice Fabric store Exit

Compactor machine

Inspection tableTable

Inspection table

rack

Fabric inspection machine

rack Exit

Slitting machineStenter machine

Fabric inspection zone

Compactor machineDryer machineSlitting machine

Hydro- extractor

rack

Compactor machine

Slitting machine

rack

South

WestEast

North

Lay out of finishing section 2:

RackRack

Rack Exit

Rack

Compactor machineTable

Over lock machine

Rack

Over lock m/cStenter machine

South

West East

North

Dyeing finishing:

Finishing machineries are used for applying varies types of finishes to the fabric or textile materials.All the finishing sequence is not same. Finishing sequence depends on the material type. Say, dyed yarn finishing process or garments finishing process is not similar as knit fabric finishing process. Although, finishing sequence of open form and tubular fabric form is not similar. After dyeing ,knit is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabrics are dyed in tubular form.

Following machineries are used for tubular from fabric finishing:

Hydro-extractor MachineDryer Tubular Compactor

Hydro-extractor Machine:

It is designed for squeezing of the knitting fabrics in tubular form after dyeing and washing also can be use softener. For the totaly automatic operation of the line it is necessary to install a turntable, which receivers the control from the de-twister. The machine is completely made of stainless steel.

Fig-08: Hydro-extractor Machine

Dryer machine:

Drying is done afterde-wateringof fabric. Intextilefinishingunit; dryer uses for dry the knit. But the drying process and drying mechanism of fabrics is different from one to another. The main functions of a textile dryer is to dry the textile fabrics. Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is evaporated from the fabric.

Fig-09: Dryer Machine (Feed Zone)

Fig-09: Dryer Machine (Back Side)

Function of Dryer machine:

Function of dryer: Various types of functions are achieved by the dryer. Following functions are most common.

1) To dry the fabric. 2) To control the overfeed system.3) To control vibration which increase the GSM.4) To control shrinkage % of the fabric.5) To control the GSM of the fabric.6) To match the shade of the fabric.7) To adjust the tone of the fabric.Tubular Compactor Machine:Tubular compactor machine is referred to the compactor machine for tubular knitted fabrics which is used as finishing machine. It is used for shrinkage control, GSM control, compact the fabric and increase smoothness of fabric. Tubular compactor isindustrial machineryused after hydro-extractor, de-watering and dryer.Functions of Tubular Compactor: 1. Shrinkage control,2. Fabric width control,3. GSM Control,4. Fabric smoothness is achieved by the tubular compactor.5. Heat setting of fabric for Lycra inquality machine6. Shade checking,7. Width checking,8. Edge line checking Fig-10: Tubular Compactor Machine

Following machineries are used for open form fabric finishing:

Slitter Machine Stenter Machine Open Compactor

Function of the Slitting Machine:

1)To open tube fabric according to specific needle mark2) Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing.3) To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering.4) Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air sprayer. 5) It can control the diameter of fabric andGSMandshrinkageby over feeding mechanism. 6) To prepare the fabric for nextstentering process. Fig-12: Slitting MachineFunction of Stenter Machine:

1) GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.2) Spirality controlled by the stenter.3) Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.4) Loop of the knit fabric is controlled by the stenter.5) Finishing chemicals apply on the fabric by the stenter.6) Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.7) Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric.8) Fabric is dried by the stenter.9) Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.

Fig-12: Stenter MachineTextile Compactor Machine:

Compactor is a textilefinishing machinewhich is designed specially for compacting 100% cotton knitted fabric like jersey, pique, interlock, plush, rib and sinker etc. as well as cotton blended fabric in rope form, changing the loft and dimensional stability of the fabric and presenting it to plaited form. Fitted with two felt compacting units which makes it to obtain top quality fabric, with minimized shrinking nature and a soft fluffy hand.

Function of compactor machine

1) GSMcontrol of the knitted fabric. For high GSM, overfeed is increased and fabric width is decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is decreased and fabric width is increases2) Control shrinkage.3) Twisting control.4) Increase smoothness of fabric.5) Heat setting is done of fabric etc.

Fig-13: Compactor Machine

Garment Sample Section Layout of sample section:

Dummy room

RackRack

Iron table

Inspection table

Iron table

Pattern tablepc

Exit

Input table

Input tableInput table

Ready for cutting Cutting table

Exit

East

Sewing machine SouthNorth

WestRack

Sample Section

Sample is the specimen of any product. Sample is a specimen or we can say a part which shows that the whole is look like. Sample is the physical form of design. In Apparel Industry- Sample is the physical form of buyers style.

Some Complete Sample in dummy

Fig-14: Some photo of sample section

Sewing machine used in sample section:Machine NameBrand NameQuantity

Lock stitch machineJUKI12

Flat lock machinePEGASUS03

Over lock machinePEGASUS08

Over lock machineJUKI01

Zigzag machineJUKI02

Total=26

Operation break down for sample section:

There are nine groups of operator in sample section each group has two operator. One group complete one sample garment whole by using the different types of sewing machine that they needed.Design or Sketch: It is nothing but one kind of engineering art including all measurement of particular style.

Basic Block: It is an individual component of garments without any design or style.

Working Pattern: To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension. .

Problem of Production or Production Related Matter:Production related problems should be eliminated in this step.

Approved Sample:The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.

Send to Buyer: When all process is done, then the garments are sent to buyer. Fig-15: Digitizing BoardProduction Pattern: To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance.

Pattern Making:

Pattern is the one of important element of a design. In a garment industries there are two type of pattern uses based on their capability. Mostly big companies are use CAD (Computer aided design) as well as little companies uses manual pattern. In NIAGARA use CAD also manual pattern in some cases. Basically Lectra Software uses here.

Picture of PatternMarker section:

In NIAGARA marker is made both manual system & automatic system. In computer aided marker NIAGARA use Lectra software. In manual marker making process, marker man use pattern paper to draw different garments parts in marker paper.

Fig-16: Marker paper

Sample required for different types of buyer in Niagara textile

Sample stages for signet

a) Fit sampleb) Size set samplec) If size set sample is approved than pre production sample

Sample stages for H&M

a) Quatation sampleb) Size set samplec) Counter sample

Sample stages for BANEX

a) Fit sampleb) Pre production samplec) Sales man sample

Sample stages for SEARS

a) Fit sampleb) Photo samplec) Pre production

Sample stages for EURO CENTER

a) Fit sampleb) Size set samplec) Pre production sampled) Counter sampleFig-17: Some Sample

Cutting SectionLayout of cutting section:

Office Room Fabrics Relax zone

Cutting Table-1 Cutting Table -14

Cutting Table-2 Cutting Table-3 Ready for Input

Cutting Table-13 Cutting Table-12


Cutting Table-11

Cutting Table-6

Cutting Table-10


Cutting Table-9

Input Fabric

Male ToiletTable

East

South North

West

Fabric Spreading & Cutting Section

Spreading - layering the fabrics:

Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process because it is basic for obtaining a high quality final product. Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of garments desired and the fabric thickness. Fabric Spreading Machines are used for bulk production.Fig-18: Fabric Relaxation & Spreading

Objectives of spreading process:

Understanding the process of fabric spreading Factors affecting spreading Face and nap of the fabric

Table-30: Fabric spreading system:

Fabric typeHeightlength

Fleece4 inch6 yard

Rib (1x1,2x2)3 inch4 yard

Lycra single jersey2 inch4 yard

Single jersey10-15 inch5 yard

Types of Lay Plan:

Half Garment Lay includes only half of the garment pieces for example one side left or right. Generally used for tubular fabrics. Whole Garment Lay includes garment pieces, left and right sides. Generally used for Open width fabrics. Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size. Disadvantageous as the consumption of fabric is higher.

Fig-19: Fabric Spreading

Types of Lay Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples Multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other Stepped Lay is multiple lay in which groups of layers have different lengths generally used for getting best utilization and consumption of fabric.

Forms of Spreading: One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply. Face to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the same direction. Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left without cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one directional printed fabric.

Fig-19: Fabric SpreadingRequirements of Spreading Process: 1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric must be at least equal to marker length and width.

2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided.

3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces up, all faces down, face to face etc.

4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.

5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife.

6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defects in garments due to variation in dimension. 7. Checks and stripes should be matched.

Fabric CuttingCutting is the major operation of the cutting room, when the spread fabric is cut into garment components. Of all the operations in the cutting room this is the most critical, because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious mistakes. Cutting can be done manually using powered knives or by computer-controlled system. Fig-20: Fabric Cutting

Flowchart chart of cutting section

Receive fabric from dyeing

Shade check with standard

Shrinkage check

GSM & fabric dia check

Fabric relaxation

Tension & dia are sameSpreading check

Marker ratio all parts presentsMarker check

Lay & cut panel measurement check

Cut mark shape measure deviation

Country sticker according to cut off

Numbering & bundling

All types of fabric defectsFabric kept from some rollPanel check

Re- cut

Re-cut panel checkPrint & embroidery check

Sewing input

Factors involved in Cutting Fabrics:Factors affect the cutting process for fabrics are as follows:- Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill etc.) Thickness of fabric. Design characteristics of finished garment. Machines and tables used.Equipment use in cutting section:

1) Straight knife knitting machine2) Band knife3) Numbering machine4) Punch machine 5) Scissor Fig-20: Fabric CuttingHere Scissor is used in 100% cases in cutting section. Straight Knife is used in 100% cases for bulk cutting directly from lay cutting.Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

It is the most useful cutting instrument in apparel cutting. In apparel industry, more than 99% cases this knife is used. This machine is calledstraight knife cutting machinebecause its cutter is straight in shape. It is used for both woven & knit fabric. In this machine different types of straight knife are used according to the different cutting objects. This machine provides good efficiency.

Features of Straight knife: Fig-23: Straight knife1. Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from the fabric lays.2. Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric.3. High cutting speed.4. Sharp and heavy corners can be cut.5. Blade could be sharpened by attached grinding facilities.

Band knife

KM Band Knife Cutters are for Exact Cutting of small parts. Selected the most optimum type from among a wide section from and easily removable.

Cutting faults

Needle break Contamination Pin hole Oil spot Patta Hale Yarn missing Color spot Slub Fig-22: Band knife Crease mark Embroidery defects Print spot

Sorting/ Bundling:

After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern.

Fig-23: Bundling

Numbering: Only for small parts different color is used for numbering.

Table-31: Numbering Sticker SizeColor

XXLBlue

XLBlack

LGreen

MRed

SBlue

Fig-24: Numbering

Numbering with Machine Label size: 22mmx12mmModel Number:Blitz 2253

Layer & Shade Numbering Machine for Garment Industries. Self Adhesive labels In variable colors for different fabrics.

There are three number indicating -12880088

128=cutting number80=size no. 088=lay no. Fig-24: Numbering with machine

Quality control flow chart of cutting

Cutting

Pattern checkReceive fabric from dye store

Size set make and check measurement

Check fabric shade,GSM, twisting & shrinkage

If ok pilot cut 200 pieces

If pass sent for relaxation

If not ok adjust pattern size set make & check measurement

If not ok return to dye store

If ok pass for bulk cutting

Lay height

Lay tensionCheck in laying period

Roll separation

Knotch markCheck in table after cut

Shape

Defect part replace by following shade

T.M.B same or notCut panel check 100%

Spot, reject, pin hole etc.

Print & EBM check

Ok cut goods pass to sewingDefect part pass to back process

Printing Section

Fig-25: Printing Section

Factors Affecting Cost of Printing:

Type of printing Size of printing Number of color of printing Any grading of size of printing from size to size Any restriction/selection of use of dyes and chemicals Lab test requirement Wash sustainability Tolerance in placement of print art-work Tolerance in color shade variation Place of printing

Layout of printing section:

Input rack

Printing table-1

Exit Exit

Printing table-3Printing table-2

Camera roomOffice room

Color room

Quality tableFemale toilet

Curing machine

Male toilet

Sample table

Heat set

North

East West

South

SEWING SECTIONSewing:

This is the main assembly stage of the production process, where sewers stitch fabric pieces together, and a garment is assembled. Computerized sewing machines (costly) can be programmed to sew a specific number of stitches to perform a standard operation, such as setting a zipper or sewing a collar.

Fig-26: Some Photo of Sewing Section

Working Procedure of Sewing Department:1. Garments Analysis Planning2. Target setup for production (on the basis of ship schedule)3. Machine layout4. Operator layout5. Quality control of product1. Line Balancing Layout2. Line setup (advance or normal)3. Process distribution1. Parts Received from cutting dept. Sewing2. Parts storing/racking3. Parts distribution to the operator and helper4. Position mark to components where required5. Parts making (individual)6. Inline Quality Checking/auditing7. Parts assembling8. Inline quality audit.9. Output counting & checked with the target10. End line quality audit Preparation for Finishing1. Thread Trimming Department2. Quality Inspection 3. Garment measuringName of the machines used in sewing section are: Single needle lock stitch machine Double needle lock stitch machine Single needle chain stitch machine Double needle chain stitch machine 4 thread Over lock machine 5 thread Over lock machine Flat lock machine Bar tack machine Button hole machine Button attaching machine Rib cutting machine Kansai machine

Some Sewing Machine Photo

Fig-27: Some Sewing Section MachineActivities of sewing section:

Attend pre-production meeting Receive sample Receive work sheet Receive Approved swatch Operation Break-down Machine layout Receive cut Fabric from cutting section by using Receiving Register Receive Sewing pattern from pattern maker Marking at necessary parts Input First production approved by Q.C. department Look after production Cycle check Line Balancing Target setting Co-operative with Q.C. Department Hand over complete Garments to finishing section through end line Q.C. Inspector Show hourly production on production board Prepare every day input and production statement Maintain discipline and working environsTools and equipment of sewing section:

Rack for cut fabric keeping (for every line) Desk for trims keeping(with lock for every line) Supporting table for bigger components operation (as per required) Desk (one for every operator)first aid-box(at every corner of the factory) Fire extinguisher(at every corner of the factory) Hammer Big scissors Hand needles Bodkin Tailors chalk Pencil Small scissor.

Picture of Some Stitch

Fig:Over lock stitch Fig: Flat lock stitch Fig:Botton hole Fig: Bar tack stitch

Fig:Zig-Zag Stitch Fig:Gathering Stitch

Fig-28: Picture of Some Stitch

Button attachment flow chart

Sewing output before button attach

Quality tableCheck the garments as per buyer requirement

Production coordinator(PC)Size wise separate the garments

Marking by correct pattern

Mark table

Attach on female part

Attach on the male pat

Mark following by male part

Checking :1) Button position2) Button stitch3) Button line4) Broken button5) Shade ,etc.Quality table

Q.C passed garment deliver to finishing

Layout of sewing section (2nd floor): I.TM.DStair

TableQuality check table

Quality check table Exit Line-4Line-3 Line-2Line-1

4A

Input table 4B

Input table

Input table

Input table

Input rack

Input rackInput rackInput rack

Toilet

Sewing machine

Line no:01Style Name: Basic polo shirtProduction target: 120 piecesNo of machine: 39 Lock stitch: 24 Over lock: 09 Flat lock: 04 Button attaching: 01 Button holing: 01No of operator: 39No of helper: 33

Operation breakdown for Basic polo shirt

Back part and front part matching

Shoulder Joint

Shoulder Top stitch

Level Making

Placket Making

Level Tuck

Placket Match to body

Placket Joint

Placket Top stitch

Nose Tuck in placket

Collar and Cuff making

Cuff Joint

Sleeve Joint

Collar Tuck

Neck Tape joint

Placket top stitch(upper)

Placket top stitch(lower)

Placket pattern top stitch

Placket box making

Neck top stitch

Arm hole top stitch

Body hem

Side seam

Side vent tuck

Side vent top stitch

Chap tuck

Button hole

Button attaching

Thread trimming

Sent to quality check table

Line no: 02

Style Name: TrouserNo of machine: 22 Lock stitch: 10 Over lock: 10 Flat lock: 02 No of operator: 22No of helper: 18

Operation breakdown for Trouser

Match front and back part

Front rise and back rise joint

Inseam

Cuff make

Cuff joint

Elastic cutting Making belt

Belt servicing

Belt joint

Attaching level

Inseam tuck

Belt top stitch

Cuff top stitch

Thread trimming


Line no: 03

Style Name: Labrea henly

No of machine: 34 Lock stitch: 14 Over lock: 08 Flat lock: 10 Button attaching: 01 Button holing: 01

No of operator: 34

No of helper: 26

Fig-29: Labrea HenleyOperation breakdown for Labrea Henly

Match back and front part

Shoulder joint

Iron body

Placket make

Placket joint

Placket lower part joint

Placket tuck

Placket top stitch (zigzag)

Placket chain stitch(other side)

Placket inner tuck

Placket box

Neck tuck

Neck joint

Neck top stitch

Rib false tuck

Sleeve and body match

Sleeve joint

Arm hole top stitch

Cuff joint

Cuff top stitchSide seam

Khara tuck

Chap tuck

Care level make

Care level tuck

Side top stitch(zigzag)

Side top stitch (chain stitch)

Side zigzag false tuck

Hanger loop tuck

Body hem

Hem zigzag stitch

Button hole mark

Button hole

Button attaching mark

Button attach

Thread trimming

Sent to quality check tableLine no: 4AStyle Name: Olga TopNo of machine: 24 Lock stitch: 09 Over lock: 11 Flat lock: 04No of operator: 24No of helper: 30

Operation breakdown for Olga Top

Marking middle point on the front part and make cross mark (X)

Tuck on the end of cross mark according to the measurement

Match back part with raglan

Joint back part and raglan Fig-30: Olga Top

Match front part and back part

Joint front and back part

Rib tuck(Neck)

Neck joint

Found middle point on back part and attach level

Side seam

Cuff making

Joint cuff with body

Fig-30: Olga Top Sewing Make bottom

Bottom mark for side seam matching

Bottom joint

Bottom top stitch

Attaching hanger loop

Hanger loop top stitch

Neck top stitch

Cuff top stitch Fig-30: QC in Olga top

Remove extra thread from cross mark

Thread trimming


Line no: 4BStyle Name: Olga BottomNo of machine: 12 Lock stitch: 04 Over lock: 06 Flat lock: 02No of operator: 12No of helper: 03Operation breakdown for Olga Bottom Match front and back part

Front and back rise joint

Inseam

Cut elastic according to the measurement

Tuck elastic

Waist belt fabric tuck with elastic

Waist belt servicing

Waist belt joint with body

Cuff making

Line no.Style1st2nd

3rd

4th5th

6th

7th

8th

1Basic Polo Shirt/100110/210120/330120/450120/570130/700130/830120/950

2Trouser/8080/16090/250100/350100/450110/560120/680140/820

3Labrea Henley/100110/210120/330130/460130/590140/730140/870150/1020

4AOlga Top/4050/9070/16070/23070/30080/38080/46090/550

4BOlga Bottom/4050/9060/15060/21060/27070/34080/42080/500

Joint cuff with body

Level attaching Fig-31: Olga Bottom

Cuff top stitch

Waist belt top stitch

Thread trimming


Table-32: Hourly production board for 2nd floorGarment washing

Garment washing is normally done after stitching. According to fashion trend and customer demand buyers ask for garment washing. For the washing apparel buyers mention exactly what types of washing they need for the order.

The primary objects of garment washing is

1) To remove starch that applied during fabric manufacturing.

2) To soften the garment hand feel and improve bulkiness

3) To remove dirt, spots, oil stains that accumulate to garment at the garment manufacturing processes. 4) To remove chemicals used during printing process and embroidery process.

To fulfill customer demand

1) Washed clothes can be worn directly after purchasing

2) To give faded look or any other color tinted look to the garment.

3) To stabilize garment shrinkage and dimensional instability.

Fig-32: Washing Machine

Tumble drying

Tumble dryers have larger drums than washing machines, because the larger the drum, the better the efficiency of hot air flow through the machine resulting in faster drying times. Allowing fabrics plenty of room to tumble also means less creasing. The best quality machines have long lasting stainless steel drums, and provide a smooth finish so fabrics don't catch.Most machines have two heat settings, for cottons or synthetics. There are a few with three settings, with the third usually for delicates. They also have a timer or sensor to control the length of the drying cycle. During the last ten minutes or so of the cycle, the heating element is turned off and the fabrics tumble in cooling air back to ambient room temperature. This reduces the effect of static and 'fibre shock', which causes creasing. Some machines have a cool air setting which can be used to air fabrics stored away for some time.

Operating principle is based on a heated air circulation system. The air flow is conveyed through the garments, which are constantly kept in movement inside the perforated drum. The air is then sucked through filter box and finally expelled out of the machine. The air heating is carried by stainless steel steam batteries. Air temperature and treating time are managed by control panel.

Fig-33: Tumble Dryer Machine

Garments Finishing Section

Finishing is a series of processing operations applied to a textile material to improve its appearance, handle and functional properties.

Fig-34: Some Photo of Garments Finishing Section

Layout of garment finishing section:

Stair

Input table

ToiletExitWash room

Spot removing ZoneUnit- 6

Office Unit-1 Unit-2 Unit-3 Unit-4 Unit-5 Unit-6

Cartoningzone

Office

ExitExit

WestSmoke detector

First aid box North South

East

Process flow chart of garment finishing section:

Receive garments from sewing section

Thread sucking

Pressing/Ironing

Primary checking

Spot removeRepair/Alternation

Measurement checking

Getup/final checking

Repair/Alternation

Tagging

Metal detection

Remove country sticker

Folding

Poly

Assorting

Packing to box

If fail, back to re-checkPre-final

Inspection of ready to ship goods

Dispatch shipment

Object of Finishing:

To enhance the suitability of the fabric for end use. To improve appearance and sale appeal for comport and utility.

To give desirable qualities to the fabric like-1. Luster 2. Drape 3. Dimensional stability 4. Crease recovery 5. Softness6. Soil repellenceWork flow in the Finishing Room:As mentioned earlier, workflow in the Finishing Department is shown here for reference:

Eliminate micro-dust and residual thread from the garment; Press/iron garments as specified by buyer or as per requirements; Fold the garments as required by customer; Fix necessary tickets (Price tickets) or tags (hang tags),etc to the garments at this stage; Insert garments into poly bags; Divide garments as per size and color (assortment); Package garments inside the cartons.

Characteristics of Well Finished Garments:Good fitting is achieved by doing the work with care, patience and practice. A well-fitted garment feels comfortable, adjusts naturally to the activities of the wearer, is becoming in line and amount of ease and consistent with current fashions.

Initial Production Check:This is carried out when the production of the total quantity of an order or partial delivery is completed. A sample lot will be selected from the order and a percentage of the garments will be inspected, this percentage usually being stipulated by the buyer. The AQL sampling inspection may be applied or another inspection system designed by the buyer.

AQL (Acceptable Quality Level):

Ascertain portion of defective will always occur in any manufacturing process. If the percentage doesnt exceed a certain limit it will be economical to allow the defective to go through instead of screening the entire lot. This limit is called AQL.The most commonly used AQL is a major 2.5 and minor 4.0 . The AQL random sampling inspection is derived from the mathematical theory of probability. Some defectives are considered acceptable. AQL 1.5 is applied when severe inspection condition are required for expensive items like, up market or Boutiques.

Table-33: AQL normal inspection plan

Total Order Quantity

SampleQuantity1%

1.5%

2.5%

4.0%6.5%

AcRe

AcReAcReAcReAcRe

90-150

20

0

1

0

1

1

2

2

3

3

4

151-280

320112233456

281-50050

1

2

2

3

3

4

5

6

7

8

501-1200

80233456781011

1201-320012534567810111415

3201-100002005678101114152122

10001-3500031578101114152122

35001 >500101114152122

The General Rules of Spot Removing: The longer a stain remains, the tougher it is to remove. Always treat a stain before laundering. Blot gently never rub; and don't ever blot with hot water.Lipstick Stain Removing: Blot with a baby wipe or a washcloth moistened with rubbing alcohol. Blood Stain Removing: If it's fresh, blot repeatedly with cold water, an ice cube, or club soda; if it's dried, use a 3 percent hydrogen-peroxide solution.Oil Stain Removing: Fig-34: Spot removing Cover with talc or baby powder immediately and allow it to sit at least a half hour. Then brush it off, apply a stain remover (such as Spray n' Wash), and wash in the hottest water the fabric can stand. Ink Stain Removing: On cotton, apply rubbing alcohol to the spot, then wash. On polyester, spray liberally with hair spray and pat with a clean, dry cloth. Then wash.Red wine Stain Removing: Douse with salt, dunk in cold water, blot until the stain disappears, and wash as soon as possible.

Fig-34: Chemical & equipment to use for spot removing

Ironing:

Ironing is the use of a heated tool (an iron) to remove wrinkles from fabric. The heating is commonly done to a temperature of 180220 Celsius, depending on the fabric. Ironing works by loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibers of the material. While the molecules are hot, the fibers are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new shape as they cool. Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to loosen the intermolecular bonds.

Fig-35: Ironing

Basic Ironing Symbols:Do not iron

Cool iron (110)

Medium iron (150)

Hot iron (200)

Garment Inspection :

The inspections are done to control the quality is means by examining the products without the products any instruments. To examine the fabric, sewing, button, thread, zipper, garments measurements and so on according to specification or desired standard is called inspection. There are so many facilities for inspection in every section of garments industries. The aim of inspection is to reduce the time and cost by identifying the faults or defects in every step of garments making.

Fig-36: Garment InspectionNecessity of Inspection:

All the retailers want to buy high quality products from manufacturers, to sell the product to their customers. The quality of the garments may vary depends on the price ranges. So we need to follow various methods of inspection techniques, depends on the customers wants

Quality Check Procedure (How to check garments)

Check all garments according to proper check system. All the garments inside & outside check. Oil spot, dirty, color spot not acceptable. All children order neck extended measurement must be check. Round check the garments. Check stitch tension (looms/teight) needle cut, needle damage etc. Check shadding: sleeve+body,rib+body,back+front. Both sleeve & both shoulder & both sleeve opening must be even. Check care label & size label properly. Check the percentage of care label of grey color garments. Check sleeve join stitch,tension, needle cut etc. Check sleeve cuff tension,shade etc. Check side seam stitch. Check bottom stitch. Check main label Check placket+button,button hole,button stitch. Check embroidery,print,hole,color,design,pocket. Check side seam stitch,tension,needle cut etc. Check bottom (inside/outside) ,broken stitch. Check side slit,care label. Check collar,neck tape,label.

Fig-37: Measurement Check Fig-37: Get-up Check

Inspection Procedure of Garments are Described BelowConfirmation of Quantity:First step of garment inspection start with confirmation of Quantity with the vendors packing list by counting all Pecs of each box. If Qty is not matching to the packing list and written in the box then this discrepancy is informed to the vendor.Confirmation of Accessories:Next step is the confirmation of accessories, here we confirm brand tags, demerit tags, Price tags, or other tags, wash care labels, woven labels, or other labels and accessories as required by the buyer.Size Spec inspection:After confirmation of accessories all pieces are checked as per size spec based on the instruction sheet which is given by the buyer side. If any measurement problem is noticed then we check the original sample and inform the buyer same time.In Side Inspection:At this stage garment is checked from reverse side to ensure that there is no fabric defect, poor stitching, and stains etc in the garment.Out Side Inspection:At this stage garment is checked from outside to ensure that there is no color variation, kniting defect, fabric defect, printing defect, holes, poor stitching, bad smell , dying defect and stains etc in the garments. Final Inspection:Final Inspection stage is the most important part of inspection process, here garment is rechecked to confirm that inspection is done properly without missing any checking step if any defect is noticed we put it into rejection bin or send it for repay. Packing:All Grade-A goods are put back into poly bags as per the original packaging and then they are send for needle inspection.

Needle Detector Machine

Fig-38: Needle detector machineMachine checking:For machine checking NTL used 9-point system.Inside this card a 1.2mm ferrous metal sample is placed for metal checking.

Fig-38: Checking InstrumentProcess flow chart of metal free zone

Machine Cleaning

Machine Calibration (machine checked by 9-point system, every after 2 hours)

Goods Checking

For Japan CountryFor other country (1 way check)

Adult 1+4 (2 way check)

Children (4 way check)

Take action according to H & M guideline

OK body passes for foldingNot OK body keep in a fixed box

Input the data in a data bankKeep the data in a data bankMetal Free Process For Japan:

2Way & 4 Way checking system

Front side vertical Front side horizontal Back side vertical Back side horizontal

Folding:

Although folding remains largely a manual task.

Fig-39: FoldingPackaging & Cartoning After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the carton. The carton is marked with important information in printed form which is seen from outside the carton easily.Table-34: Measurement of some carton are given below: For H & MObjectLengthWidthHeight

Polo Shirt543520/40

Hanger item584040

Small Quantity292020

General582640

For BANEXObjectLengthWidthHeight

General563641

Fig-40: Cartoning

Assortment: Buyers generally place order of garments in certain assortment of color and sizes. The production of such colors and sizes is called assortment.

There are 4 types of assortment:1) Solid size and solid color (the order comprises one size & one color)2) Solid size & assorted color (the order comprises one size & different colors)3) Assortment sizes & assorted color (the order has only one color but different sizes)4) Assorted sizes & assorted color (different sizes & different colors in the order) Generally most of the order comes in assorted sizes & assorted colors.

Fig-41: AssortmentDispatch/Finished Carton Zone:

The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the finished carton zone, where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.

Fig-42: Finished Carton Zone

Chapter Six

Work Study

Work Study:

Work study is the analysis of the operations required to produce a style. Effective work study requires both methods analysis and work measurement. Methods are studied, analyzed, and the elements of the method measured in terms of time consumed.

Objectives of Work Study:

- Explain mechanization and automation relative to general- and special-purpose machines- Examine the basic components of sewing machines and work aids - discuss the effect of equipment on product quality and performance.

Work Study can be best expressed in the following manner:

1. Method Study: Record to Compare Seek best method

2. Work Measurement: Time Study Synthetics

Work Measurement Techniques are:1) Time Study2) Judgment or past experience of the engineer / production manager3) Predetermined Time systems4) Standard Data5) Operator Reporting6) Work Sampling

1.) Time StudyTime study is a systematic technique for determining the amount of time required for a qualified, well trained person, working at a normal pace to perform a specific operation.

2.) Pre-determined Motion Time Systems (PMTS)Production Standards are established for new styles before the style goes into production The basis is historical data for hundreds of replications of basic motions and elemental times that have been averaged and converted to standard times for a specific motion.

3.) Judgment Time Study may be, time consuming and costly For small orders a style may not be in production long enough for Time Study This can provide only approximate values

4.) Standard Data (Garment Synthetics)Standard data may be developed for: Operations, Components, Styles, and Used for preliminary costing and design decisions as well as cost estimating.

5.) Operator ReportingRelates to the volume completed during the time spent. There are no specified methods or output expectation. The amount of work completed in a specific time frame is often inconsistent and may be unreliable.

6.) Work SamplingIt is a work measurement method that is not concerned with how fast a unit is completed but rather which machines are used and activities pursued the job over an established period of time.

Types of Allowance:Different types of allowance are given bellow-

Relaxation Allowance Contingency Allowance Machine Delay Allowance Style Change Allowance Special AllowanceLine Capacity Study Sheet

DateBuyerStyleLine no.

25.8.14H&MKitt Trouser07

#S/LProcess NameOperators IDMachine No. of pcsTotal timeAllow- anceCapacity

1Back & front rise joint+label attach 21746Over lock052.2520%104pc/hr

2Inseam6597Over lock055.0020%50pc/hr

3Crotch point tuck11094Lock stitch050.4520%333pc/hr

4Waist Belt joint31503Over lock052.2520%104pc/hr

5Belt top stitch25551Flat lock052.5520%85pc/hr

6Leg hem joint29196Flat lock052.4020%93pc/hr

7Inseam8189Over lock054.1620%58pc/hr

8Elastic tuck13138Lock stitch051.0520%240pc/hr

9Elastic joint29637Over lock052.5020%88pc/hr

10Waist belt tuck7633Lock stitch052.5020%88pc/hr

11Waist belt tuck821Lock stitch 052.1220%113pc/hr

12Leg hem joint30633Flat lock052.4020%93pc/hr

13Belt top stitch5300Flat lock051.4520%142pc/hr

14Back & front rise joint+label attach18221Over lock053.1020%80pc/hr

A time study work sheet that we have done during our internship

Table-35: Calculation of capacity of an operator

Standard minute value (SMV) = Total minute 60 Total second No.of pieces 60 Allowance = (260) + 25 5 60 + 20% = 120 + 25 5 60 + 20% = 145 5 60 + 20% = 29 60 + 20% = 0.48 + 20% = 0.48 + 0.096 = 0.576

Capacity = 60 SMV = 60 0.576 = 104 pcs Total textile process at a glance

Fig-43: Total textile process at a glance

For cotton fabric total textile process is briefly described below:

By spinning process cotton fibre is formed into yarn. Then the yarn is sized by using different types of sizing chemicals and methods. By using sized yarn knitted fabric is made by knitting machine. Knitted grey fabric is then pre treated and then the fabric is dyed and printed as per requirement of the buyer. From the colored fabric garment goods are made through the different process. Finished garment is then sent to retail store. From the retail store consumer get their fashionable garment that they want to buy.

Chapter Seven

Merchandising& Costing

Merchandising:Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production departments. The term merchandising means simply to buy & sell commodities for a product. Merchandising is the planning, developing & presenting product lines for identified target markets with regards to pricing, assortment, styling & timing. It is a central coordination point for the product line. The product line is the primary responsibility of merchandising.

Process flow chart of Merchandising

Receive product package form buyer

Sample development

Price negotiation

Order confirmation and receive order sheet.

Sourcing low good quality right time

Material collection and receive it in factory

Check and listing

Swart card making and approval

Pre production meeting

Daily collect daily production report and daily quality report

Arrange final inspection

Shipment

Costing: After receiving an enquiry from the buyer, the merchandiser has to do the costing for the product which is mentioned in the enquiry. Costing means to calculate the total investment for producing a product and how much profit will come from thats investment. It is most important to calculate the processing cost before starting production. Costing is the process of estimating the tentative price of a product. For knit garments costing a merchandiser needs to have clear conception of the raw materials price and CM calculation of knit garments.

Costing of a product includes different factor. They are as follow:

Yarn cost Knitting cost Dyes and chemical cost Cost of dyeing Cost of finishing Cost of cutting, sewing and accessories Cost of printing(If needed) Labor cost (Direct or indirect) Office and Administrative cost Factory cost Sales and carrying cost Other cost Profit etc.

Trims and AccessoriesTo fulfill the design objectives we need different kind of materials. Fabrics are the main material, which used for garment manufacturing. We need other materials also, which make the garments aesthetic, functional and commercially required. Usually other than fabrics these materials used for making garments are called trims and accessories.Trims:The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric are called Trims. On the other hand materials are directly attached with the fabric to make a garment are called trims. Like: Threads, buttons, lining, Interlining, zippers, labels, care labels, etc.(Interlining is used as shape forming / preserving materials.)Accessories:The materials, which are used to make a garment attractive for sale and packing, other than fabrics and trims, are called Accessories.

Fig-44: Some Trims & Accessories

Chapter Eight

Quality Assurance System

Quality Assurance System

Quality assurance

Quality assurance (QA) refers to the planned and systematic activities implemented in a quality system so that quality requirements for a product or service will be fulfilled. It is the systematic measurement, comparison with a standard, monitoring of processes and an associated feedback loop that confers error prevention. This can be contrasted with quality control, which is focused on process outputs.

Objective of quality control: Research Selection of raw material Process control Process development Product testing Specification check

Dimensions of Quality:

QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM OF KNITTING DIVISION

INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM: After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing. Quality assurance of knitted grey fabric is described here.

SOME POINTS ARE NEEDED TO MAINTAIN FOR HIGH QUALITY FABRIC: 1) Brought good quality yarn. 2) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly. 3) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately. 4) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month. 5) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.

LIST OF EQUIPMENT FOR QUALITY CONTROL: The list of equipments to assure quality:- 1) Inspection m/c. 2) Electronic balance 3) GSM cutter. 4) Measuring tape. 5) Scissors. 6) Indication sticker.

QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE

Body & rib inspection:All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubs etc are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system.

Collar & cuff inspection:Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor fault in collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round problem etc properly counted and recorded.

QUALITY STANDARD: NTL maintains the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality. Therefore, the four point system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by

industrial attach

Documents

best quality textile

finishing building

excellent quality

leading textile products

finest price

rational price

competitive price

apparel sector of bangladesh