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    A tour to the worlds largest

    Textile and Apparel Workshop

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    China history of silk more than 5000 years old

    First to invent the science of sericulture and silkproduction

    LucrativeChinese silk trade during the Han

    Dynasty (206 BC220 BC)

    Silk Route: a symbol of the cultural andeconomic exchange between the East and the

    West

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    GDP: US $4.33 Trillion

    Third largest Economy (exchange-rate ) Second Largest (PPP Basis)

    5th Fastest Growing Economy

    Largest Trading Nation Traditionally Driven by Agriculture and

    Industry

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    Largest in the world

    Cotton-Largest Producer, but, not thebiggest exporter

    Long Staple Cotton (90%)

    Constitutes 78% of the exports from China. Employs 19 million people.

    Textile Clusters

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    China faces shortage of Labour?

    Textiles- special focus area for Chinese

    Govt.? Relationship of Nonwoven industry

    growth and Growth of GDP

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    Enhancement of export tax rebate

    Ensure the tax rebates come to enterprisesin time

    Adjusting Industry Structure includingrelocation.

    Enlarging Domestic Demand.

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    Initial textile mills in China: a mere extension ofthe Lancashire and Japan Textile industry

    Privileges like Cheap Labor,Security,FavorableClimate and Extensive Markets : Attractedforeign Management andCapital (esp. from

    WesternCountries)

    Increase in domestic investment owing to lesserrisks

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    Downfall of British Textile Industries

    Defeat of Japan in Sino-Japan II war (1937-1945)

    China gaining ownership of many well equippedand efficient manufacturing units

    China lost Experienced Management and

    Technical Skills

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    Loss of 2 million spindles-approx. 40% of the

    1937 total of 5082000 spindles

    Loss of productivity of upto 35% (of pre war)

    owing to shortage of skilled labor anddeterioration of plants

    Still 3 million spindles operating at 70% of

    prewar efficiency

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    China pursued an inward-looking developmentalstrategy, free of foreign direct investment (FDI)

    Between 1950 and 1960: Chinas foreign loanswere provided by the Soviet Union

    Foreign Capital in China: Mostly a down payment

    for sellers credit to purchase equipment fromWestern Europe and Japan

    Foreign capital equated with Foreign Exploitation and

    Economic Imperialism

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    From late 1978 onward,Deng exerted a critical role in Chinesepolitics and the opening of China.

    First political hurdle: stern political opposition at the national

    levelconservative ideologues Chose to open up a few places first as experimental zones where

    measures for attracting foreign direct investment would betried out and foreign capital, technology would be usedeffectively for local development

    Experimenting with liberalization and demonstrate theeffectiveness of the Open Policy and encourage other areas tofollow suit

    A defeat the decades-old autarky legacy

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    In the early 1980s, fourSpecial Economic Zones (SEZs),namely,Shenzhen,Xiamen,Zhuhai, andShantou

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    The designated SEZs enjoyed geographicproximity to neighboring advanced economies

    Inexpensive land and labor here would attractinvestors fromHong Kong, Macao, Taiwan, aswell as Singapore, Malaysia, and Thailand andlater prompt Japanese, Korean, and Western

    investors to follow suit

    Also to attract successful overseas Chineseentrepreneurs who had strong sentimental bonds

    with theirChinese home towns.

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    SEZs enjoyed a number of special policies until April1984

    Joint ventures and foreign-owned enterprises were

    allowed in the SEZs

    Prices and distribution of goods were regulated bythe market within the SEZs

    SEZs had jurisdiction in approving much largerinvestment projects than non-zone localities

    SEZs enjoyed preferential treatment in tax and

    tariffreductions and exemptions

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    Deng and other reformists carefully appointed

    leaders with political experience to head the majorSEZs to accomplish different tasks for reform

    They were also loyal cadres the communist partytrusted politically

    Technical difficulties were resolved and

    marketization was implemented.

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    By the end of 2002, a total of 6866 industrial

    parks had been set up inChina, including state-

    level,

    provincial,

    municipal and county-levelindustrial parks

    However, since 2003,China has launched

    rectification for the industrial parks in order tonormalize the land usage, and cut the amount

    of industrial parks to 1568 by the end of 2007.

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    The textile and apparel clusters are mainly located inthe cities or towns of the coastal regions, particularlyin the Yangtze River Delta (YRD), the Pearl River

    Delta (PRD) and the Bohai-rim region

    Hundreds and even thousands of textile and apparelmanufacturers have clustered together

    In most cases, specialized wholesale markets arealso presented to act as trading platforms for thefinished products

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    38 major textile clusters and 48 major apparel

    clusters inChina

    Each of these clusters specializes in theproduction of one or more textile or apparel

    products.

    All of these clusters are located along the

    coastal provinces of Guangdong,Zhejiang,Jiangsu,Shangdong and Fujian.

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    Strong linkages with the outside world

    Extended production chain

    Existence of wholesale market/commodityexchange market in/near the cluster

    Concerted marketing efforts among enterprisesin the cluster

    Governments role in the textile and apparelindustry

    Clusters act as the main sources of raw

    materials and other processed apparel products

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    Movement out from the relatively high-cost

    coastal areas to the inland regions

    Continual surging land and labour costs

    Rising costs of raw materials and energy in the

    coastal regions

    Some enterprises even move their production to

    other lower cost countries in Asia.

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    Rank Country Export Value (Billion

    USD)

    YoY Change (%)

    1 US 16.1 18.9

    2 Japan 15.7 7.43 Hong Kong 9.0 33.2

    4 Romania 5.0 838.9

    5 Russia 4.0 -25.4

    6 Germany 3.6 17.7

    7 Korea 3.2 31.9

    8 UK 2.8 31.2

    9 Canada 2.6 52.9

    10 Italy 2.3 27.8

    Data: 2006

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    QUOTA SYSTEM and Environment issues

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    2/3rd of enterprises affected

    Net losses: $ 1.17 bn

    15% ofChinese products cant enterAmerican market: $ 8bn products affected

    Nitrogen dye prohibited: influenced 70% ofapparel enterprises

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    Heavily dependent upon developed nations Cant appeal to WTO Have to abide by their regulations to continue

    trade Restructuring industry structure Focus on better technology Emphasis on innovation and R&D Shift from OEMs to ODMs & OBMs Thus offer highest quality goods to them Thus arises need for other avenues

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    New foreign policy target Africa as a newmarket and resource base

    Continuously building relations- Diplomacy- Trade Deals- Debt forgiveness- Aid packages

    Major motive: Investment in Africa as a newmarket (Aid always follows trade)

    Trade by 2008: $ 70 bn

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    Specialized in low cost mfg

    Still many small and medium textile firms in

    China operate at low costs No stringent laws in these LDCs

    Politically unstable: bribe officials

    No quotas

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    Offer cloth at much cheaper rates

    Companies all import this cheaper cloth

    Cheap due to low-quality No restrictions to prevent such practices

    Carry & imitate local designs

    Increases unemployment

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    ATL and GTP shut down spinning & weaving

    plants

    Import cheapChinese wax prints Much less durable than Ghanaian textiles

    Unemployment level high

    Ghanaian designs imitated

    The cheap imports are slipped in at theborder and ports

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    Nigeria

    1996 2006: NTMA employees: 250000 to

    30000 One-fourth cos shut down

    Cumulative production: 1.5bn to 400mn mtsof fabric per yr

    South Africa

    Textile Imports fromChina: 40% to 80%

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    Joined WTO on 11 December 2001

    Why??

    China felt discriminatory policies by its tradingpartners

    Anti-dumping and countervailing measures

    Determination of dumping and its margins based on

    third country reference prices, instead ofChinesedomestic costs

    Textiles - Anti Dumping duties ranged from 54-500%

    WTO Dispute settlement mechanism

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    Textile industry profits

    Phase 3 of ATC 51% of quotas eliminated

    Tariff reduction Stability in External Economic Relationships

    Firer and Speedier Economic Reform

    Reduction of barriers forChinese exports

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    ATC(Agreement on Textiles andClothing)-Quotas as specified in bilateral agreements

    Successor to The MFA(Milti Fibre Arrangenment)

    Exceptions to GATT and WTO rules

    Restricted the absolute level of textile andclothing imports of individual countries for a

    variety of product categories Global trade figures for clothing provide partial

    confirmation of the experts predictions for gains

    forC

    hina in post-ATC

    trade

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    On how to start business

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    Speed of reforms and restructuring

    FDIs

    Currency Management Timing of joining WTO

    Supportive Infrastructure

    Liberal Labour Laws

    Removal of textiles and clothing exportsquota system.

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    Quality of Governance

    Focus on Value Addition

    Technology Up-gradation Capacity Building

    Building Clusters

    Human Resource Development

    Accreditation and Certification

    Reducing the cost of doing Business

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