freshstrawberry servedovercoldzabaglione anditalianespresso...

fresh strawberryserved over cold zabaglioneand italian espressoat cafe allegre – madison, ct

photo by hadyn lassiter

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6 Letter from the EditorLinda Kavanagh

8 Tables – Harbor LightsSeasonal Waterfront DiningLinda Kavanagh

14 Kitchen Not-So ConfidentalChef Prasad ChirnomulaThali RestaurantLinda Kavanagh

18 LibationsJonathan Edwards WineryMonica Brown

20 Food StuffNodine's SmokehouseSavored By Linda Kavanagh

24 Over the BorderProvidence, RILinda Kavanagh

holland red pepper stuffedwith ground beef, breadcrumbs, black olives,fresh mediterranean herbsand parmigiano reggianoserved over chef silvio’sfamous sunday sauceat cafe allegre – madison, ct

photo by hadyn lassiter


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When Kim first mentioned the idea of creating a magazine that reflects the style and energy of hervarious websites, I thought, why hadn't other entertainment based websites already scooped up thisidea? Makes perfect sense to me! An existing audience, an additional outlet for our advertisers, andthe opportunity to further toot the horn of this dynamic state of ours – it's a no-brainer.

On a personal note, whenever I have the opportunity to write about food and wine, talented chefs,unique restaurants, and fabulous destinations, I jump at the chance. I'm one of “those” long-timehospitality industry burnouts. You name it, I did it; hostess, bartend, waitress, manage, cook behinda hot and steamy kitchen line, run banquets, own a catering company…it's a list that most of usindustry folks have been through. And, why? Because we love it. It sucks you in and never lets yougo. Look at me! Okay, so I'm not behind the line at the sauté station anymore, but I still can't tearmyself away from the business.

I'm excited to play a part in the start-up of this magazine. Yes, we all feel like we are taking achance, but, just like any new venture, as long as there's a strong team behind it, a new idea,a viable product, and, most of all, passion, we've already achieved a level of success andgratification that has made it all worth-while. Besides, nothing ventured, nothing gained.

This first issue was to have been out in 2006. In fact, we were so behind schedule, each time werealized that we had blown yet, another deadline, we all had to redirect and re-research much ofthe magazine's content. While we were able to plug away at getting this publication on track eachtime, it became clear that we would never run out of ideas or options. Connecticut just has so muchto offer. We'll never be short on material!

Our approach to the Culinarymenus.com portion of the magazine promises to be unlike any otherpublication in this area. There won't be any restaurant “reviews” or rating systems whatsoever.We will venture to each corner, and every place in between this 5,544 square mile state of ours toexplore CT's gastronomic world. You will get to know some of our most gifted chefs through our

Chef Q & A, explore the world of wine and spirits in our Libations pages,travel Over the Border to unique culinary destinations, and dine out

with us in our Tables section. We'll even let you in on somedelicious Food Stuff and tasty events to experience.

I invite our readers to ask questions and offer suggestions.I'd love to hear from all of those restaurants out there as well.We may only be the 48th largest state in the country, but we suredo have a lot of great places to eat. It's a challenge to keeptrack of them all. No worries. I'm up to the challenge!

Enjoy the first issue of Excursionz Magazine. We look forward tosharing even more great things about living in Connecticut inissues to come!

And We’re Off!

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Letter from the E ditor

[email protected]

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10 Route 32North Franklin, CT 06254Phone: (860) 887-7755

Elegant Fine DiningFabulous Dessert Cart

Banquet FacilitiesWithin Minutes of the

Casinos and theNorwich Historic District

Delicious Gourmet ItalianSpecialties with some

Mexican Dishes preparedby Chef Modesto Using theFreshest Ingredients fromSeafood, Meats & Poultry

www.modestosrestaurant.net

464 South Main StreetColchester, CT, 06415Phone: (860) 537-6261

Romantic Fireside DiningLive Music EntertainmentFabulous Dessert Cart

Banquet Facilities for anyspecial occasion

Delicious Gourmet ItalianSpecialties with some

French Dishes prepared byChef Sergio Lucero Using theFreshest Ingredients fromSeafood, Meats & Poultry

www.modestosrestaurant.net


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One of the reasons many of us live in Fairfield County isits proximity to New York City and its shoreline commun-ities. Perched along the Long Island Sound, and its manyinlets, are numerous waterfront restaurants offering globalfare and calming views throughout the year. No longerreserved for summer time dining, Connecticut restaurantsthat are fortunate enough to have this prime oceanside real estate continue to offer diners great food andpanoramic views throughout foliage, snow, and therebirth of warmer weather to come. A favorite amongstlocals, bordering the trendy South Norwalk district knownas SoNo, is Harbor Lights, once a penny arcade in theearly 1900's. After many transformations throughout theyears, Chris Gavrielidis, his brothers Mike and Andreas,and sister Carol, purchased the entire property, and withthe harbor view as its focal point, built a restaurant fromthe ground up that would attract diners all year round,and not just as a seasonal respite.

The stately stone facade gives way into a sophisticated,yet casual, bar area and high ceiling dining room, repletewith breezy fans, large open-air windows, brilliant woodenarchitecture, and low lighting. While lunchtime is a brightand sunny experience, the evening hours are dazzlingwith the twinkling of the water’s edge lights in thedistance, soothing waves and ripples, and the restaurant’scelebratory atmosphere.

The menu pulls from mostly Mediterranean shores, alongwith hints of the owners’ Greek heritage. Icy raw barseafood and crustaceans include clams, oysters, lobster, andjumbo Gulf shrimp (mkt $). Appetizers ($10-$12) consist ofthe usual suspects such as calamari fritti with two dippingsauces, plump east coast oysters Rockefeller, and clamscasino with garlic butter, bacon, and toasted breadcrumbs.More exciting starters are the mussels a la Provencal with aspicy garlic, white wine, tomato and herb sauce served withplenty of crunchy bruschetta to soak up the wonderful

CONNECTICUTWATERFRONT DININGThe Harbor Lights Way


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flavors. My favorite is the tender“Octopus Mediterraneo” of grilledoctopus in a citrus infused dressingwith fresh herbs. This dish is oftenattempted, but seldom victorious.Here, it shines. Baked brie wrappedwith crispy phyllo sheets is servedwith candied walnuts and a honeyand red wine spiced pear, which isfabulous while lingering over aglass of chardonnay.

Harbor Lights is primarily a seafoodrestaurant, but gone are the clamshack days of deep fried morsels andFrench fries (which can be found atOverton’s Seafood stand located onthe same property and owned by theGavrielidis brothers). More refineddishes utilize daily fresh fish deliveries,seasonal produce, and aromaticherbs. Lamb and filet mignon, as wellas a scrumptious chicken in a marsalaand dried fig sauce, make an appear-ance, but this is not the place to satisfythe carnivore in you. This is a place toenjoy the bounties of the sea. Entree($22-$35) portions are generous, so, Irecommend sharing a variety of dishes

with your entire table. Before we goany further, I have two words ofadvice: Lobster Santorini. By far theirmost popular dish, the 1 poundlobster is stuffed with a wild mush-room, crabmeat, shrimp, bell pepper,and herb creation, then broiled witha creamy gratin. Need I say more?Somehow the lobster meat staystender and sweet under all thoseflavors, making this an indulgentdish to be savored.

Some more tasty examples of therestaurant’s signature dishes include:oven roasted Mediterranean sea bassover a mélange of sautéed artichokes,fennel, grape tomatoes, red onions,and celery in a Dijon vinaigrette;pecan encrusted salmon served withsweet mashed potatoes, wilted spinachand asparagus in a basil creamsauce; creamy saffron lobster risottowith pan-seared scallops, chunks oflobster meat, green peas, tomatoes,and scallions with a drizzle of cilantrooil; and crispy potato-crusted redAmerican snapper with sun driedtomatoes and sautéed zucchini.

The menu descriptions may seemoverwhelming, but the simplepreparations and fresh ingredientsmaintain the integrity of the fish.

Desserts ($7-$8) are as light andrefreshing as you want them to be, oras indulgent as you are in the moodfor. Seasonal berries and fresh fruitsorbets such as passion fruit, mango,blackberry cabernet, and lemonflavors are a fabulous way to end ahearty meal. If you’re craving some-thing a bit more naughty then the silkycrème brulee or dense flourless choco-late cake will hit the spot. The key limepie was done right here, a tart-sweetcontrast with a crumbly crust, and thebanana spring roll put us over theedge. Or, maybe it was the bottle ofwine with dinner…The wine list israther extensive and quite global,accommodating all tastes and wallets.

Harbor Lights is a fun place to linger,as the view, no matter what the sea-sons may bring, is gorgeous. Its loca-tion, away from the mayhem of down-town SoNo, is convenient, with plentyof parking and an outdoor deck adja-cent to Overton’s Seafood stand nextdoor. There are 12 boat slips for thosewho are nautically inclined to docktheir boat right at the restaurant.

Look for the Gavrielidis brothers toexpand their domain in the nearfuture, as this dynamic team has afew more ideas that are sure to bejust as successful and pleasurableas Harbor Lights.

82 Seaview AvenueNorwalk, CT(203) 866-3364www.harborlightsrestaurant-ct.com

SO, YOU WANT MORE?Let’s travel up the coast a bitfor some more of Connecticut’scharming coastline diningdestinations. (see next page!)


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New Haven CountyFBucci’s Beachhead Restaurant –This beachside restaurant and gather-ing place is the perfect place for thosedeep fried, whole belly clams andshrimp with fries that you crave. Italianspecialties, fresh catches of day, andhouse favorites such as shrimp andscallop Veneziana and baked stuffedshrimp can be savored on the outsidedeck overlooking Long Island Sound.

3 Cosey Beach Ave., East Haven, CT(203) 469-5450www.beachheadct.com

Guilford Mooring, SeafoodRestaurant – The owners of thisunique restaurant say it the best: “Ourgoal is to create a restaurant that suc-cessfully marries a poetic and genuineNew England ambiance with outstand-ing, indigenous and unique flavors ofNor’ Eastern seafood cooking in abright and festive atmosphere.” Built in1836, and situated on the shore ofLong Island Sound, the GuilfordMooring is headed up by Chef BobAnello. Here you will find plenty ofseafood and Italian dishes, and one ofthe best Lazy Man’s Lobsters around!

505 Whitfield Street, Guilford, CT(203) 458-2921www.guilfordmooring.com

Middlesex CountyBill’s Seafood – Located at TheSinging Bridge, this seafood house isa popular place for boaters to docktheir boats and grab a bite to eat.New England lobster roll, hearty clamchowder, Maryland blue crab cakes,and Bill’s famous seafood platter areserved with a side of ocean air ontheir outside picnic tables along theedge of the Patchogue River.

548 Boston Post Road, Westbrook, CT(860) 399-7224www.billsseafood.com

Dock & Dine – Inside or out, year-round dining with breezy ocean sideviews at Saybrook Point are teamedwith seasonal raw bar selections,seafood stuffed mushrooms, grilledfresh tuna Nicoise, New England codwith a potato crust, and classicBouillabaisse brimming with lobster,shrimp, clams, mussels, scallops,and fish in a tomato-saffron broth.Operated by JTK ManagementRestaurants, Dock & Dine is one oftheir five distinct restaurants along theConnecticut/Rhode Island shoreline.Other restaurants include: Go Fish,Steak Loft, and Ten Clams in Mystic,CT; and Dead Eye Dick’s on BlockIsland, RI.

Saybrook Point, Old Saybrook, CT(860) 388-4665www.dockdinect.com

New London CountyBoom, Fine Waterfront Dining –This year round restaurant, locatedat Dodson Boatyard on historicStonington harbor, offers upscaledining, fabulous views, and genuinehospitality. Ahi tuna tartar with Asianslaw, BBQ duck quesadilla withchipotle creme fraiche, pan roastedhalibut, and grilled sliced hangarsteak with gorgonzola demi-glazeare just some of the menu highlightsthat made Boom so successful thatthey even opened a second locationat Brewer’s Pilots Point Marinain Westbrook.

194 Water StreetStonington, CT(860) 535-2588Pilot’s Point Marina, US 1,Westbrook, CT(860) 399-2322www.boomrestaurant.net

Sunset Rib Co – Fantastic sunsets,live entertainment (music and comedy),and, yes, their mouthwatering ribs iswhat has family and friends gatheringat this casual restaurant and night-club along the Thames River. Themenu is full of fun finger foods, ribsand chicken, fresh seafood, andhearty sandwiches. A must try is the“pachos,” a baked dip with creamcheese, cheddar cheese, choppedpepperoni, and cherry peppersserved with tortilla chips. Yummm…

378 Rope Ferry Road, Waterford, CT860-443-RIBS (7427)www.sunsetribs.com


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By Linda Kavanagh

* Curry is not a spice in itself, butrather a blend of spices.

* Commercial sweet yellow currypowder is a generic blend of spicesthat just happen to take off in theretail market.

* Curry blends include: pepper, cin-namon, cloves, coriander, cumin,ginger, mace, turmeric, cardamom,tamarind, fennel, chilies, and manyother aromatic herbs and spices.

* There are Asian and Americancurry blends, as well as Indian.

Taking a more modern approach toIndian cuisine, style, and décor, Thalihas brought this wonderful, bold,and aromatic food experience toNew Haven. Chef/Owner PrasadChirnomula, upon the success of

his New Canaan and Ridgefieldlocations, continues to grow hisempire of exciting restaurants andgathering places. The large space,across from the extinct coliseum, isbroken down into three separatedining rooms, a long bar and lounge,and a cozy alcove replete with fluffypillows and colorful lights. Vibrantcolors and comfy furnishings makeit all too easy to linger for hours onend. There is a slight noise levelexuding a comfortable energy.

Prasad takes traditional Indian ingre-dients and preparations and presentsthem in a more contemporary fashion.Appetizers, such as jinga or gobimanchurian, Asian influenced crispyfried shrimp or cauliflower in a hot

soy and garlic sauce, chicken tikkakabab, breast meat marinated inyogurt, garlic and spices then grilledin the tandoor oven, and tawa crab,flaked crab meat tempered in mustardseeds, ginger, green chilies andtomato sauce, are popular startersand really get the taste buds going.House breads (paratha, nan, poori,and kulcha) are always served hotout of the tandoor and fill theroom with a constant stream ofintoxicating aromas.

Sizzling iron skillets of tandooridelicacies include jumbo prawns andThali's signature lamb chops rubbedwith nutmeg, cardamom, carawayand mace. Daily fish deliveries arealways intriguing at Thali – combining

Chef Prasad ChirnomulaThali, Regional Cuisine of Indian in New Haven

One of my favorite radio show interviews was with DavidRosengarten, a passionate food historian and cookbook author.The entire show revolved around food myths and misconceptions.You know, that cheese is a major ingredient in Mexican cuisine(so untrue!) and sweetbreads are a cow's “unmentionableparts” — (who started that one?). One of the most universalmisconceptions was that of Indian food tasting primarily of curry.David was quick to come to this misunderstood cuisine's rescue.

The Facts areThis:

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the bold flavors of India to everything from Chilean seabass to sweet sea scallops. My constant need for hot andspicy food always brings me back to the adu isthu,deviled lamb curry in black pepper reduction, and prawngassi, large shrimps in roasted coriander, red chilies andcoconut milk.

Vegetarian dishes include my beloved (spinach) saagpaneer, and more innovative items such as bagar dal,yellow lentils tempered with cumin, garlic and curryleaves, baigan dahiwala, eggplant in yogurt sauce, andchole peshawri, chick peas simmered in ginger andground spices. I recommend using the fragrant basmatirice to gather up all the wonderful sauces.

Enjoy creative cocktails, top shelf spirits, and an impres-sive wine list created by sommelier Raju Somerpet. Indianbeers, such as Taj, are great with this type of fare, as arepeppery pinot noirs and sweet gewürztraminers.

Date Opened: June 2006

Concept/Cuisine:Authentic Regional IndianCuisine / Modern InterpretationsThali Regional Cuisine of India4 Orange Street, New Haven203-777-1177www thali.com

Chef Prasad ChirnomulaHometown: Hyderabad, India

Career Highlights:

* Considering I came from a family of doctors, I gotaway with graduating from college with a degree inHotel/Restaurant Management & Applied Nutrition.

* Coming to America

* Landing my first job as Sous Chef at Akbar Restaurantin New York City

* Spearheading several Fairfield County restaurants andeducating consumers about Indian cuisine

* Receiving “The Best Indian Chef And The MostExciting Indian Chef In America’” June 2006 DavidRosengarten, The David Rosengarten Report

Family/Children:Happily single and living with my two beautiful childrenand my great parents

Was being a chef / restaurateur even a blip onyour radar when you were growing up?No and yes! No, because I wanted to be a pilot and flyplanes and have fun traveling the world. Yes, because Iwas enjoying my mom's food and was always peekinginto the kitchen to watch and learn.

What else would you like to accomplish, in orout of the restaurant business?Of course I want to be able to open world renownedrestaurants in New York City, London, and Paris, andeventually explore the hotel business again – maybe onan island so I can relax and not work 16-hour days,seven days a week!

What was your first job in the industry?At 21 years of age I was managing 200 employees withinthree multi cuisine specialty restaurants in a 232-roomhotel in India.

Do you recall the first dish you mastered?Biryani, a slow cooked basmati rice dish with layers ofmeat or vegetables or seafood.

According To PrasadCookbook To Live by: Larousse, and of course the internet

Favorite Cooking Tool: Chef's knife and the sharpening rod

Favorite Secret Ingredient: Fenugreek

Most Misused/Overused food/Ingredient:I cannot imagine

Music To Cook By: Contemporary Jazz and Reggae

Favorite Food Indulgence: Roti canai — a form ofpuffed bread served hot with curry or dhal (lentils)

Least Favorite Food: Mexican

Beverage of Choice: Johnnie Walker Blackon the rocks w/splash of Coke

Sexiest Food: Sushi

Favorite Dinner Companion: My daughter

Dream Job: I have one

Chef Perks: Food, wine, friends and the media!

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Jonathan Edwards Winery

libationsBy Monica BrownCellar XV Wine Market,Ridgefield, CTwww.cellarxv.com

I arrive at Jonathan EdwardsVineyards, a trip that has been threeyears in the making (what a shame,since I'm so close). I forget howa short day trip can revitalize andremind you of all the great thingsthat are so close to us in Connecticut.It was just three years ago when I firsttasted Jonathan's wines from NapaValley. At first I was a skeptic – awine from Connecticut with the catchof Napa grapes, interesting?Wonderfully, the wines were eyeopening. His production at thattime included: Cabernet, Merlot,Zinfandel and Chardonnay.

The Jonathan Edwards winery is onlyseven years old and began with ayoung couple's dream. Jon and hiswife Rachel met in grad school, gotmarried, and settled in Washington,D.C. With the help of Jon's parentsthey began pursuing their dream andlove of wine. They moved to NapaValley, CA to learn the wine trade. Itwas in Napa that Jon gained thefriendship and stewardship ofWinemaker Vincent Arroyo. Alongwith working at Vincent's winery, Jontook classes in winemaking andvineyard management at theUniversity of California at Davis.

After two years of training, Jon beganto seek out his own winery. Jon andRachel initially looked in Napa, buttheir heartstrings pulled them back tothe coast. So began the quest offinding the perfect location for theirwinery in pursuit of both of theirpassions, wine and family.

On their vision quest of wineries andsite locations from Virginia to RhodeIsland, they found CrosswoodsVineyards. Located in NorthStonington, CT, the winery had lainuntouched for a decade. The grapevines were sick and diseased, and

Only a few hours from Ridgefield, Connecticut, on a warm spring day,rounding a corner I see nirvana on a hill in front of me. Vines, bare vines,still a few weeks from bud break. My mouth waters with delicious thoughts ofthe grapes in the glass to come. I approach a majestic, fresh, white, 18thcentury dairy barn that feels delightfully warm and welcoming.

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although the winery and vineyardswere in complete disrepair, Jon andRachel realized they had found home.

In 2000 the yearlong renovation ofthe vineyards and winery began. Thefirst major hurdle was a high watertable, which was not suitable forgrowing grapes. After surveying thefarm, an extensive drainage systemcalled “tiling” was put in place toremove the excess water from thevineyards. The first vines were plantedand the old dairy barns were restored.Jon was now ready to make wine.

It would be three years before Jonwould be able to make wine from hisConnecticut vineyard. So, in keepingwith their plan to bring together thebest of the East and West, Jon head-ed back to Napa to fortify his grapecontracts with his five key vineyardsthroughout the valley. Each locationwas selected for its optimal environ-ment of each grape varietal to makethe best wine possible. The yearlyroutine had begun; a week or two inCT in the spring to check the vine-yards (20-acres) and to work with thefarmers on what his expectationswere for the coming season, thenback to Napa for up to two monthsin the fall to oversee the harvest,crushing, fermentation, stabilizing,and the shipping of the juice inrefrigerated trucks to Connecticut.

Once the young juice reachesStonington, the wine will then spend12 to 18 months in a barrel

(French and American), before thefinal blend is made and bottled.The rest of the year Jon enjoys theother end of winemaking, which isfarming. He enjoys the ability of con-trolling every aspect of the vineyards.When planting the new vineyards thegrapes are carefully selected to bestsuit the climate. Short growing sea-sons make it difficult to grow certainvinifera varieties (i.e. cabernet, mer-lot, syrah) on a consistent basis, andas Jon puts it, “I'm not interested inmaking so-so wine.” The grapesselected were based on other historiccool weather wine regions suchas Germany and Alsace, France.Vineyard Manager Tim Barry, alongwith Jon, selected the vinifera (nothybrids) varieties of Chardonnay,Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grisand Cabernet Franc. They purchasedcultivated American rootstocks andgrafted European vines to combinegrowth vigor with resistance to dis-ease. They then selected the bestlocation for each variety and plantedthe vines according to vine density,row direction, and spacing to maxi-mize each variety's ability to producethe best juice possible. JonathanEdwards' 18-acres of vineyards havethe advantage of being on a hill onlynine miles from Long Island Sound.Believe it or not, the grapes enjoy thewarm coastal breezes and southernexposure to the sun.

All of this hard work and planninghas been paying off for Jonathan.The Vineyard annually producesapproximately 9,000 cases ofNapa Valley and 1,000 cases ofConnecticut Varietals, growing to3,000 cases this year. The newreleases planned for this year areCabernet Franc and Petit Syrah Port.The Vineyard now averages justunder 10,000 cases per year.

Along with The Vineyard's great winetasting room, visitors can alsoindulge in wine friendly picnic foodsand take in the views of theConnecticut shoreline and the vine-yard's 50-acres of breathtakingpastures. You can enjoy your glass ofwine when it is cold outside by thetasting room fireplace, or when theweather permits, on the front fieldstone patio, surrounded by the herbgardens, or on the back deck over-looking the vineyards. There is alsoa gift shop and loft gallery, as well asan active spring and summer scheduleof events, such as a live music series,food festivals, and their famousHarvest Fest where you can stompgrapes if you would like. The winery isopen Wednesday through Sunday from11 a.m. to 5 p.m. for tasting. Winetours are held at 2 p.m. where you canexperience the winery and barrel roomand learn how the wine is made.

Now that I'm sitting looking over thevineyards and feeling the afternoonsun, I can understand why Jonreflected about this particular siteover all others, “Not a spot I wouldrather be,” beams Jon. I could notagree more, but unfortunately, I canonly stay for a couple of hours andnot a lifetime. But now I know thatwhen I feel the need for a little“Napa,” I'm only a car ride away.

Jonathan Edwards Winery74 Chester Maine RoadNorth Stonington, CT 06359Phone: 860-535-0202www.jedwardswinery.com

Tasting Notes:Napa Valley; Chardonnay, Merlot,Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon,Syrah, Zinfandel Port, Syrah PortConnecticut; Gewürztraminerand Chardonnay. Riesling andCabernet Franc (not yet released).


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Nodine'sSmokehouse

To coin a phrase, it's a pork fat thing! And, for whateverreason, Americans love bacon and all things pork.According to the ERS, USDA, pork ranks third in annualU.S. meat consumption, behind beef and chicken, aver-aging 51 pounds per person each year. The Nodine fam-ily, which includes Ronald, Johanne, and son Calvin, areno doubt, loving those statistics, as they are the master-minds behind Torrington's popular Nodine's Smokehouse.

Originally a small custom smokehouse that began in1969 in Goshen, CT, Nodine's quickly outgrew the petitspace due to the high demand, expanding product line,and overwhelming production needs. What was once thelocal place to grab various cuts and flavor varieties ofbacon, sausages, and holiday hams and turkeys, soonblossomed into an extensive gourmet meat, cheese, andfish retailer, wholesaler, and mail order business. The newproduction plant, a state-of-the-art 20,000-square footfacility in Torrington, opened in 1989, while the originallocation still acts as Nodine's storefront.

Nodine's signature items include:

• Woodland Hams• Whole/Boneless Breast of Turkey• Bacon (non-nitrated, juniper,double smoked,apple, pepper)

• Smoked Fish (mackerel,salmon, trout,peppered bluefish)

• Sausage (pork and chicken kiel-basa, chicken apple cranberry,

Italian, beef summer)

Also available are duck, chicken, paté, game meat,and various cheeses, such as cheddar and mozzarella.Nodine's produces over 4,000 pounds of bacon everymonth, between 6,000 and 8,000 pounds of sausage,and up to 4,000 of turkey and ham, and will double theirsales volume throughout November and December. “Theseproducts are fabulous throughout the holidays,“ explainsCalvin, “Not only are they flavorful, but they are simple toprepare, most of them pre-cooked and ready to go.”

Smoked foods are wonderfully tasty, taking on variousflavors and aromas when preparedwith savory wood, such ashickory and mesquite,and numerous dry-rub combinationsand herbs. Simpleaccoutrements,such as mustard,chutney, andmayonnaise, alongwith a crusty Frenchbaguette and somecornichons, have themakings for a delicious picnic.Smoked foods also make for fabulous gift giving, asthey are often considered to be an indulgent item, andcertainly, unique.

A little bit about “smoking”:

"Hot smoking" is a several-hours-long process that canbe used to fully cook meats or fish; barbecue is a formof hot smoking. Generally, hot-smoking involves holdingthe food directly above the fire, or in an enclosure thatis heated by the fire. The cooking temperature in a hot-smoking environment is usually between 130-180°F.The temperatures reached in hot-smoking can killmicrobes throughout the food.

"Cold smoking" is an hours or even days-long process inwhich smoke is passed by food, which is held in a separatearea from the fire. Generally, the food is held at roomtemperatures (60-80°F) as it is smoked. Since no cookingtakes place, the interior texture of the food generally isn'taffected; neither are any microbes living within the meator fish. For this reason, cold-smoking has traditionally(frequently) been combined with salt-curing, in such foods asham, bacon, and cold-smoked fish, such as smoked salmon.

The method of smoking is a useful preservation tool, asare salt-curing and drying. For oily fish, smoking is

Savored byLinda Kavanagh


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especially useful, as its antioxident properties delayexposure to oxygen causing surface fat rancidity.This antioxident effect could be especially important forsalted meats and fish, since salt itself is a prooxidant.Some heavily salted, long-smoked fish could keepwithout refrigeration for weeks, or even months.

So,where doyou find Nodine's foods?

Adams Super Food Markets(various locations throughout Connecticut)Country Grocer, Thomaston, CTBishops Orchard, Guilford, CTTulmeadow Farms, West Simsbury, CTMail Order: 800-222-2059www.nodinesmokehouse.com

Nodine's Smokehouse

Production Plant668 Riverside Ave., Torrington, CT 06790860-489-0132

Retail StoreRoute 63/North Street, Goshen, CT 06756860-491-4009

“At the production plant,

while using the finest U.S.D.A.

inspected ingredients,we

feelwe have been able to

capture the best of both

the small family quality

andwholesomeness,

while consistently main-

taining high production and

shipping capabilities.”

— The Nodine Family


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Providence, Rhode Island

The Hotel Providence and L'EpicureoIn a recent squabble with my sweetheartover whether we would continue to live inFairfield County, it became quite clear to methe many reasons why I have chosen to livein Connecticut, let alone its southern mostcorner. “The best of all worlds” I touted tomy befuddled boyfriend, “I have the oceanto my side, the city below, the country allaround, and easy access to it all, with itsglorious change of seasons, scenery, andsensations!” Damn. I should be a writer….

by Linda Kavanagh

A favorite road trip destination ofmine is two hours north, straight upI-95 to the exciting city of Providence,RI. Recognized by Forbes Magazineas one of the “Top 50 Cities forBusiness and Careers,” named oneof the “100 Best Communities forYoung People” by America's PromiseAlliance and acknowledged byAmerican Style's list of “Top 25 ArtsDestinations,” this charming city's entiredowntown district is listed on theNational Register of Historic Places.Its fabulous architecture, manicuredstreets and parks, enriching museumsand galleries, as well as its progres-sive retail, dining, and entertainmentofferings make this a wonderful cityto escape to for a quick respite.Wishing I could give you a completeoverview of this fun destination, I'llhave to narrow it down to the lastadventure I had there – a romanticdinner and overnight stay.

The newly opened Hotel Providence,located in what's referred to asThe Downcity Arts and EntertainmentDistrict, a mere jaunt away from manyof the city's sights, is a stylish hotelunlike any other lodging in the area.Its turn-of-the-century architecturehas been preserved, whilst modernamenities and impeccable service areat the forefront. “Boutique” and“Corporate” are not typically used inthe same sentence when describing ahotel, but here, the two marry quitewell. An “urban sanctuary” is how thewebsite defines it.

There are 80 guest rooms, whichinclude suites and deluxe accommo-dations. Upon entering our room weimmediately felt we were in the lap ofluxury. Rich fabrics, bold colors, plushfurnishings, and original artwork byNancy Friese, a nationally recognizedartist from the Rhode Island School of

Design, are in every room. Weespecially loved (dove onto) ourtwo-poster bed with fresh linens, fluffycomforter and lots of pillows. Anoversized desk with an ergonomicchair is another staple in all of therooms, accommodating those onbusiness (or those who just can't pullthemselves away from the frickin'computer!). Always disappointed inboutique hotels with teeny-tinybathrooms, here we were quitepleased with the pedestal sinks, rainhead showers, marble floors, andplenty of space in our abode.

With toiletries and computer unpacked,clothes hung, and the bed alreadydisheveled from our super hero dives,we were off to explore what newthings had taken place since our lastvisit and track down an aperitif, ofsorts. A favorite spot to have a cock-tail before dinner is across town, past

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City Hall at The Capital Grill locatedat the Union Station Complex. Martinispack a wallop and their homemadepotato chips are perfectly spicy andaddictive. There are a few neighboringrestaurants in the area and lots ofgreat places to meander (KennedyPlaza and the Canal Walk are a few).

We were looking forward to dinner atL'Epicureo, a landmark Italian restau-rant originally located in the FederalHill district, and after nearly ten yearsrelocated to a larger space at The

Hotel Providence. We anxiouslyweaved our way back through thebustling streets. Upon entering therestaurant one cannot help but bemoved by the Renaissance inspireddécor. Likened to the hotel's design,the stately manor, dark wood furnish-ings, lush fabrics, large crystal chan-deliers, and magnificent artwork is mostimpressive. I recommend a visit to thepiano bar with its beautiful stainedglass bar, comfy leather back chairs,jazzy tunes, and intoxicating cocktails.

As we perused the menu and sippedour wine we continued to admire theimpressive artwork (Mona Lisa andthe like). The Italian menu featuresclassic dishes and more moderninterpretations of some of my favorites.We began with the hot and cold foiegras (pate and seared) and then amouthwatering dish of braised escar-gots with wild mushrooms, chive

gnocchi, and baby carrots in a redwine reduction. A sinful butter poachedMaine lobster tail was next on ourtasting menu. Simple, sweet, and per-fectly tender, this was clearly the bestlobster either of us had ever enjoyed.

Another dish that we'd come back foris the slow roasted Atlantic salmonwith braised leeks, black belugalentils, endive marmalade, and redwine vinaigrette. The flavors andcontrasts in this preparation were pureperfection. In the mood for pasta,

we split the veal Bolognese with herbpappardelle, parmigiano reggiano,and fresh basil. The sauce was a richreduction of mirepoix, pork fat andlean veal. True to form, and feelinglike we could conquer the world, orat least some more food, we had thechef prepare us something of hisliking for that evening. Out of thekitchen came braised short ribs withcaramelized celery root, potatopuree, and haricots verts, with anearthy porcini mushroom bordelaise.The beef fell apart with every touchof the fork, and once again, a richreduction that can only be accom-plished with patience and care, madethis dish shine.

Too full for dessert….I had youfooled for a moment, didn't I? Ofcourse we ordered something sweet.There was no turning back now. Noneof those light sorbets or fresh berries

for us. We were going all the way!I'm talkin' chocolate ganache breadpudding with port caramel sauce.Rich and decadent. One more for theroad, a rustic granny smith applecrostada with a flaky free form pastrycrust drizzled with caramel sauce andunsweetened whipped cream. And toensure a restful night's sleep, a warm-ing glass of Tawny Port (although, wecould hear our bed upstairs calling tous…or was that just the wine speaking…)The wine list runs the gamut frommedium-high price points, offering a

wide selection of Italian and domesticvarietals. Some more global selectionsare also available.

L'Epicureo is reasonably priced (entrees$19.95-$34.95) and, more importantly,offers quality food and exceptionalservice in a lovely atmosphere, which isall relative in the scheme of things. Thesame goes for The Hotel Providencerooms, ranging (superior/deluxe) from$170-$359. Look for on-going specialrates and packages.

The best is waking up in the morningknowing that home is only a fewhours away. No schedule to keep,plane to catch, or time to kill. Justenough time in the car together toreminisce and talk about where wewant to go next! Next issue…

www.hotelprovidence.comwww.lepicureo.com

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freshstrawberry servedovercoldzabaglione anditalianespresso...

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