fine cooking 10.11.2012
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ocT/noV 2012 n.119
www.fiekig.m
20 Seasonal Side Dis
Hearty clamchowderew England, Manhattan& Rhode Island
risotto 101
A cooksGuide to Salt
H cI cAS IR
Bake ow,Eat LaterMake-AheadHoliday Desserts
Cranberry-Almond
Shortbread Tart, page 80
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2011WisconsinMilkMarketingBoard,Inc.
Wisconsin Cheese Outdo Ordinary
eatwisconsincheese.com
chewliciousadjective :when food is so delicious that it is savored
for as long as possible before being swallowed.
The last bite of Wisconsin Gouda always proves
to be the most chewlicious.
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contentso c t o b e r / n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2 i s s u e 1 1 9
f e a t u r e s
38 TurkeyBBQUsingeverytrickinherbook,barbecue
champion Lee Ann Whippenmakesthe
bestturkeyyoulleverhave.
42 OntheSideFromclassictocreative,20tasty
vegetabledishesforyourfalltable.
Recipes by Julissa Roberts
48 ApplePickingWithsomanyapplevarieties,choosingcan
beachallenge.Hereshowtosuitthefruittotherecipe.By Greg Patent
54 ChickenCacciatoreclassic/classic updateAtraditional
recipe,plusachefscreativespin.
By Melissa Pellegrino and Shea Gallante
Peeling apples
for an Apple
Upside-Down
Cake, page 52.
58 HeavyMetalInexpensive,nonstick,andpracticallyinde-
structible,acast-ironskilletrocksatalmost
anytypeofcooking.By Joanna Pruess
64 StirringtheChowderPotWiththreetypesofclamchowder
Manhattan,NewEngland,andRhode
Islandinacontentiousrivalry,wetake
thestancethattheyreallgood.
By Allison Ehri Kreitler
70 DotheTwistMasterbreadbaker Peter Reinhartshareshissecretsformakingsoft,
chewypretzelsathome.
76 BakeNow,EatLaterJustintimefortheholidaycrunch:four
irresistibleandcompletelymake-ahead
sweetendingsforyourThanksgivingmeal.
By Jill OConnor
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contentso c t o b e r / n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2 i s s u e 1 1 9
d e p a r t m e n t s
10 MakeItTonight FastandFresh Just30minutes
todinner,starttofnish.
17 Marketplace trythisPomegranates
WhatWerecookingnoW
AcornSquash,Broccoli,Celery,Celery
Root,Grapes,Pears,Sunchokes,Swiss
Chard,andThyme
BigBuycookingPecans
22 TheScienceoSalt FoodscienceThekitchensmost
popularseasoningandhowitworks.
24 TheReadingList Booksthatcook
Newmust-readsoroodlovers.
26 Risotto repertoireWhenitcomesto
thisclassicItalianricedish,theres
asmuchcomortinthemakingas
intheeating.
28 GreatFinds goshoppingOurlatestbuys
orthekitchenandtable.
30 NourishingThanksgivingTraditions
thegoodliFeThisholidaymeal
mightseemlikeanunhealthysplurge,
butmanyoitstypicalingredientsare
betteroryouthanyoumaythink.
33 TheEntertainersKitchen Behindthekitchendoor
Award-winningrestaurateur
TomDouglasserveshungrydinner
guestswitheaseromhisSeattle
homekitchen.
85 TestKitchen Tips,techniques,equipment,in
ents,andmore,romourexper
92 Pairings drinksWhattodrinkwithwh
thisissue.
in every issue 6 readersletters
8 contriButors
9 Finecooking.com
94 nutrition
95 WheretoBuyit
96 menus
98 recipeindex
30
85
19
28
22
4 f i n e C o o k i n g o C t/ n o v 2 0 1 2
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W Wk or a big holiday, when it
comes to planning a menu, the food is really only half of thepicture. What you choose to drin with it is the other half,
and its a choice that can mae or brea your meal. hats
where our new Pairings column comes in. Written by our wine and spirits
expert, contributing editor Patric Watson, its an in-depth guide that
not only gives a drin suggestion for every main dish in the issue but
also explains why the pairing wors so well. Patric will explore new wine
varietals, styles, and growing regions, as well as the more familiar ones.
ell go beyond wine, too, recommending beer and spirits when theyre
a good match. o see for yourself, turn to page 92. o learn more about
Patric, chec out his bio on page 8. Cheers! Jennifer Armentrout, editor
Drink This with That Editor JenniferArmentro
ArtDirector DonMorris
SeniorFoodEditor ShelleyWiseman
SeniorEditors RebeccaFreedmaDeniseMickelsen
AssociateEditor LaylaSchlack
SeniorCopy/ EnidJohnson ProductionEditor
AssociateArtDirector PamelaWinn
Staff Photographer ScottPhillips
PhotoEditor/Styl is t KellyCoughlanGea
AssociateFood RonneDay Editor/Stylist
AssistantFoodEditor JulissaRoberts
AdministrativeAssistant DianePatterson
TestKitchenAssistant AbbySimchak
Test K itchen Intern PeterFritz
Photography Intern KevinKeane
EditoratLarge SusieMiddleton
ConsultingEditoratLarge JoanneWeir
ContributingEditors MelissaDenchakTashaDeSerioAbigailJohnsonDoMaryellenDriscollAllisonEhriKreitleEllieKriegerKimberlyY.MasibaMelissaPellegrinoTonyRosenfeldJoanneSmartMollyStevensPatrickWatson
SpecialProjectsEditor KathyKingsley
SeniorManagingEditor, CarolynMandaran Books
FineCooking.com
SeniorWebProducer SarahBreckenridg
WebProducer RobynDoyon-Aitke
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letter from the editor
Whenthechipsaredownn Fabulous Fish & Chips (ugust/
eptember), you say that the chips
should be crisp and golden. n Britain,
the fried chips that accompany bat-
tered, fried sh are not crisp in any
way. heyre usually a bit squishy. f
you want your sh and chips to be
authentic, only the sh should be crisp.
Peggy Pilgrim, Spruce Grove, Alberta
Editors response: he double-frying
method we used is traditional and will
mae the chips crisp on the outside.
Many chip shops wrap chips in paper
or serve them in closed containers,
which traps steam and maes the
chips squishy. nother factor, which
we mention in the story, is that crowd-
ing the chips while they fry can mae
them soggy, and some shops may do
that. aving crisp chips is all the more
reason to mae your own.
Cookingthroughtheyears had to respond to Michelle Den-
niss letter in the ugust/eptember
issue about wanting more challenging
recipes. ve also noticed more quic-
and-easy recipes inFine Cookinglately,
maybe because ve been looing for
them. When started reading your
magazine, was young, with little
family responsibility, and was thrilled
to spend most of aturday preparing
an elaborate dinner. ow that have a
career and a family, love having great
recipes for weedays. When m retired
and have time for elaborate meals once
again, ll still loo toFine Cooking.
Tristin Wayte,Vancouver, British Columbia
CorninahurryYou had wonderful recipes in the u-
gust/eptember issue. When it comes
to 10-minute corn recipes (Corn in
10), however, wondered why anyone
would want to heat up a pot of water
to boil four ears of corn when you can
microwave the same four ears in their
huss in 8 minutes (cooing time is 2
minutes per ear). have been cooing
my corn this way for 20 years.
Barbara Fox, Montgomery, New York
Test kitchens response: hans forwriting; thats a great suggestion. Your
microwave method wors well, but it
does have a minor drawbac: Micro-
waving with the huss on means that
the ears dont get inspected for worms
before cooing.
readers letters
6 f i n e c o o k i n g o c t/ n o v 2 0 1 2
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contributors
Though he has a Ph.D. in
zoology, Greg Patent(Apple
Picking, page 48) stud-ies and writes about food
and cooking. The author of
seven cookbooks, Patent
won a James Beard Award forBaking
in America. He hosts The Food Guys on
Montana public radio and blogs at
thebakingwizard.com.
Mydesert-islandfoodischocolate-covered caramels because they com-
bine my two favorite foods.
Mymostrecentkitchenpurchaseisa 1960s KitchenAid mixer on eBay. It
beats eggs way better than the new
machines do.
ThemostoverratedfoodontheThanks-givingtableisthe turkey.
Shea Gallante(Chicken
Cacciatore, page 54) is the
executive chef and co-owner
of Ciano in New York City.
Previously, he was execu-
tive chef at Cru, which was
awarded three stars by The New York
Times during his tenure.
Myguiltyfoodpleasureissharinga bag of Skittles with my son.
MylatestkitchenpurchasewasMicroplanes in various sizes.
Mylatestfooddiscoveryisnot somuch a discovery, but Im really into
canning, curing, and jams.
A professional opera singer
turned sommelier, Patrick
Watson (Pairings, page
92) co-owns two wine stores
(Smith & Vine and Brooklyn
Wine Exchange, where
classes and tastings are held), a wine bar
(The Jakewalk), and a cheese shop
(Stinky Bklyn), all in Brooklyn,
New York.
Mydrinkofchoiceisan old AustrianRiesling.
Thebestthingaboutmyjobisa con-tinuous learning curve.
Thethreeitemsalwaysinmyrefrigera-torareJoselito chorizo, Cato Corners
Hooligan cheese, and McClures pickles.
A graduate of the London
Cordon Bleu, Jill OConnor
(Bake Now, Eat Later,page 76) began her career
as the pastry chef for the
Golden Door Spa in
southern California. She is the author of
six cookbooks, including Sweet Nothings,
Simple French Desserts, and Sticky, Chewy,
Messy, Gooey.
Myfavoritepieceofkitchenequipmentismy KitchenAid mixer; I plan to be
buried with it.
IfIwerentachefIwouldbea screen-writer. I have fantasies about creating
the nextMad Men.
ThedishImostwanttolearntocookis
sfogliatelle [layered, shell-shaped Ital-
ian pastries]. I tried to make them once
and am still recovering.
Barbecue champion Lee
Ann Whippen (Turkey
BBQ, page 38) is the chef/
owner of Wood Chicks BBQ
in Virginia and Chicago Q
restaurant in the Windy
City. She competes in barbecue competi-
tions around the country and bested
Bobby Flay during a pulled-pork throw
down on the Food Network.
Myfavoritefoodsplurgeissteamed
lobster with drawn butter.
IfIwerenotachefIwouldbean airlinepilot, like my father; I actually took y-
ing lessons when I was younger.
Mylatestfooddiscoveryissmokingmeats over pomegranate wood.
Joanna Pruess(Heavy
Metal, page 58) is an
award-winning author of
ten cookbooks, including
Seduced by Bacon. A world
traveler, she also teaches
cooking classes and speaks regularly
about food and cultural anthropology.
Myfavoritefoodsplurgeis saltedcracklingsthey are pure heaven.
Myfavoritecomfortfoodisa perfectlyroasted chicken.
ThestrangestthingIeveratewassheeps eyes served by a Saudi adviser
to the king.
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Just 30 minutes to dinner, start to fnish
make it tonight
4 oz.thinuncookedglassnoodles
(seeTestKitchen,p.85,formoreinformation)
4 cupslower-saltchickenorturkeybroth
3 largeclovesgarlic,smashedandpeeled 1 2-inch-longpieceoffreshginger,
peeledandthinlysliced,slicessmashed
1 Tbs.soysauce;moreforserving
1 mediumheadbokchoy(about8 oz.),slicedinchthickcrosswise(about
3 cups)
2 cupscoarselyshreddedcookedturkey
orchicken
2 scallions,bothwhiteandgreenparts,thinlysliced
Putthenoodlesinalargebowland cover
with hot tap water; let soak while you pre-
pare the other ingredients.
Ina3-quartsaucepan, bring the broth,
garlic, ginger, and soy sauce to a rapid
simmer over medium-high heat. Cover
and continue to simmer for 10 minutes;
remove and discard the garlic and ginger.
Addtheglassnoodlestothebrothand
cookuntil nearly transparent (you should
see only a tiny thread of white in the cent
of each noodle), about 4 minutes. Using
tongs, distribute the noodles among
4 bowls.
Addthebokchoytothebrothandcook
uncovered, just until the white parts start
to become tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Using
a hand-held strainer or slotted spoon,
remove the bok choy and distribute amothe bowls.
Addtheturkeytothebrothandsimme
just until heated through,about 30 sec-
onds. Distribute the turkey and broth
among the bowls. Top with the scallions
and serve with more soy sauce on the sid
Dabney Gou
asian turkey noodle soup with bok choyBorrowed from Chinese immigrants, this simple dish is a classic comfort foodin Hawaii, where its known as long rice. Despite the name, theres no ricehere; the slippery, transparent noodles are made from mung beans. Look forthem in the Asian section of well-stocked supermarkets, or swap in ricevermicelli. This recipe is a great use for leftover Thanksgiving turkey. Serves4
10 C C T/ 2 0 1 2
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cider-glazedchicken thighsThis recipe couldnt be simpler: Justroast the chicken until cooked through,brush with a three-ingredient glaze,and broil until golden-brown. Roastedsweet potato and onion wedges makea nice accompaniment. Serves 4
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, trimmed
1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
cup apple cider
1 Tbs. honey
1 Tbs. cold unsalted butter, cut into -inchpieces
Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler
and heat the oven to 450F. Line a large
rimmed baking sheet with foil.
In a large bowl, toss the chicken thighs
with the oil, 1 tsp. salt, and tsp. pepper.
Put a rack on the baking sheet and arrange
the chicken thighs skin side up on the rack.
Roast until the thighs are lightly golden and
an instant-read thermometer inserted in
the thickest part without touching the bone
registers 165F, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring the
cider and honey to a boil over high heat.
Reduce the heat to medium and simmer
vigorously until the mixture has reduced to
cup, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from theheat and whisk in the butter.
Turn the broiler to high, brush the chicken
thighs with the cider glaze, and broil for
1 minute. Brush with more glaze and broil
again until deep golden-brown, 2 to 3 min-
utes. Remove the chicken from the oven,
brush with more of the glaze, and serve.
Melissa Pellegrino
pork chops with cranberry-maplepan sauceFresh cranberries color the sauce a vibrant red, and their tartedge is a perfect counterpoint to the sweet maple syrup. Serves 4
4 1-inch-thick bone-in pork chops(about 2 lb.)
2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
Kosher salt and freshly groundblack pepper
1 Tbs. olive oil
1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries
cup lower-salt chicken broth
cup pure maple syrup
2 tsp. cider vinegar
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
Pat the pork dry and season with
1 tsp. of the thyme, 1 tsp. salt, and
tsp. pepper.
Heat the oil in a heavy-duty 12-inch
skillet over medium heatuntil shim-
mering hot. Add the pork chops and
cook without moving until the pork
is browned around the edges and
easily releases when you lift a corner,
3 to 4 minutes. Flip the pork chops
and continue to cook until firm to the
touch and an instant-read thermom-
eter inserted horizontally into a chop
close to but not touching the bone
registers 140F, about 9 minutes.
Transfer the chops to a plate and
cover loosely with foil to keep war
Add the cranberries, chicken broth
maple syrup, cider vinegar, mustar
and the remaining 1 tsp. thyme to t
skillet and raise the heat to medium
high. Cook, whisking to incorporate
the mustard and any browned bits
from the bottom of the pan, until
the cranberries soften and the liqu
has reduced to a saucy consistenc
about 7 minutes.
Return the pork chops and any acc
mulated juice to the skillet, turning
coat both sides. Serve the pork cho
with the sauce. Tony Rosenf
Touch here to sign up for oudaily Make it Tonight eLetterpacked with quick weeknighmeal ideas.
F C . C M
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leek and goat cheese frittataThe high ratio of leeks to eggs in this frittata brings theleeks sweet flavor and meltingly tender texture to theforefront. Serve with a simple garden lettuce salad andthinly sliced prosciutto or Serrano ham on the side. Serves4
3 Tbs.unsaltedbutter
2 Tbs.ol iveo il
3 largeleeks(whiteandlight-greenpartsonly),halvedlength-
wise,slicedonthediagonalinchthick,andrinsed
Koshersalt
6 large eggs
Freshlygroundblackpepper
1 tsp.choppedfreshthyme
3 oz.goatcheese,crumbled
Positionarackinthecenteroftheoven and heat the oven to
350.
Heat2Tbs.ofthebutter and 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a 10-inch,
ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the
butter has melted, add the leeks and a generous pinch of saltand cook, stirring, until the leeks are tender and lightly browned,
about 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate, spread in an even layer,
and let cool briefly.
Inalargebowl,whisktheeggswith 1 tsp. salt and several grinds
of pepper. Add the leeks, thyme, and goat cheese and gently stir
to combine.
Wipetheskilletcleanandheattheremaining1 Tbs.eachbut-
terandoliveoil over medium-low heat. When the butter has
melted, add the egg mixture and gently shake the pan to evenly
distribute the leeks and cheese. Cook until the eggs begin to
set around the edges, about 5 minutes. ently shake the pan
to be sure the frittata isnt sticking (if necessary, slide a spatula
around the perimeter to release it). Transfer the pan to the oven
and continue to cook until the frittata is set in the center, about5 minutes. Remove from the oven and let sit for about 2 minutes.
Carefully slide the frittata onto a serving plate, cut into wedges,
and serve warm or at room temperature. Tasha DeSerio
skirt steak with mushroomsand shallots
The classic combination of steak and mushrooms comestogether quickly in this simple weeknight meal. Serve withroasted potatoes, an arugula salad, and crusty bread to mup the sauce. Serves4
1 lb.skirtsteak,trimmedand
cutcrosswiseinto4pieces
Koshersaltandcoarselygroundblackpepper
5 Tbs.ol iveoi l
lb.creminimushrooms,cutinto-inch-thickslices(about
4cups)
1 largeshallot,finelychopped( cup)
2 tsp.choppedfreshthyme
cupdrywhitewine
1 cupslower-saltchickenbroth
2 Tbs.coldunsaltedbutter,cut
into4pieces
Patthesteaksdryandseason
withsaltandpepper. n a heavy-
duty 12-inch skillet (preferably
cast iron), heat 2 Tbs. of the olive
oil over high heat until shimm
ing hot. Cook the steaks in a
layer, flipping with tongs half
through, until an instant-read
mometer inserted in the thic
part of the steak registers 13
for medium rare, 5 to 7 minu
total (if necessary, lower the
to medium high to finish coo
the thicker pieces). Transfer
plate and let rest, loosely covwith foil, while making the sa
Heat2 Tbs.oftheoliveoilin
skilletover medium-high he
until shimmering hot. Add th
mushrooms and a generous
of salt and cook, stirring occa
ally with a wooden spatula, u
golden-brown, 6 to 8 minute
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Koshersalt
1 lb.freshcurlykaleormustardgreens(about2 bunches)
3 Tbs.canolaoil
1 mediumshallot,thinlysliced( cup)
2 largeclovesgarlic,thinlysliced
cupcrmefracheorsourcream
Freshlygroundblackpepper
1 tsp.sweetpaprika
tsp.celerysalt
/8 tsp.cayenne
2 6-oz.catfishfillets
1 tsp.freshlemonjuice
Bringalargeheavy-dutypotofwell-saltedwatertoaboil.Mean-
while, tear the kale leaves from their ribs. Discard the ribs and tear th
leaves into bite-size pieces. Wash well. Cook the greens in the boiling
water until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain in a large-mesh sieve, pres
ing firmly on the greens with the back of a large spoon to extract as
much liquid as possible.
Usingthesamepot,heat1Tbs.oftheoilovermediumheat.Add t
shallot and garlic and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon,
until tender but not browned, about 2 minutes. Return the greens to t
pot, add the crme frache, and toss with tongs to combine. Season
taste with salt and pepper; remove from the heat, cover, and keep wa
Inasmallbowl,combinethepaprika,celerysalt,cayenne,and t
each salt and pepper. n a heavy-duty 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat
the remaining 2 Tbs. oil over medium-high heat. Brush the catfish wi
the lemon juice and sprinkle both sides evenly with the spice mixtur
Put the fish in the pan, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until
browned, 4 minutes. Carefully flip the fish with a spatula and cook u
it flakes easily when tested with a fork, 3 to 4 minutes. Serve the fishover the greens. Ivy Mann
Transfer to a bowl and keep warm.
Lowertheheattomedium,add
the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, the
shallot, and thyme and cook,
stirring, until the shallot is slightly
browned, about 1 minute. Add the
wine and cook, stirring and
scraping the bottom of the pan to
dissolve any browned bits, until the
liquid has almost evaporated, about
1 minute. Add the chicken broth.
Raise the heat to high and boil,
adding any juice that has accumu-
lated from the steak and mush-
rooms, until the sauce is reduced
to about / cup, about 7 minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat
and whisk in the butter. Stir in the
mushrooms and season the sauce
to taste with salt and pepper.
Thinlyslicethesteaksdiagonally
acrossthegrain,if you like, and
serve topped with the mushroom
sauce. Tasha DeSerio
pan-seared catfsh with creamy greePaprika, celery salt, and cayenne make a bright, slightly spicrub for this mild fish. Serves2
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sauted shrimp and pancettawith cheese gritsIf you cant find quick-cooking grits, you can use quick-cooking polenta insteadjust be sure to follow the packainstructions for the correct cooking time and the amoun
liquid needed. Serves4
3 Tbs.ol iveo il
2 smallleeks(whiteandlight-greenpartsonly),halvedlengthwthinlysliced,andrinsed(1 cups)
Koshersalt
2 mediumclovesgarlic,minced
3 cupslower-saltchickenbroth
1 cupquick-cookinggrits(notinstant)
4 oz.extra-sharpCheddar,coarselygrated(about1 cup)
Freshlygroundblackpepper
2 oz./8-inch -thick slicedpancetta,cutinto/8x1-inchstrips
1 lb.jumboshrimp(21to25perlb.),peeledanddeveined
tsp.cayenne
largegreenbellpepper,seededandfinelydiced( cup)
1 Tbs.finelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley
Inaheavy-duty4-to5-quartpot,heat2 Tbs.oftheoilover me
heat. Add the leeks and tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally
softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for ano
30 seconds. Add the chicken broth and tsp. salt, cover, and bri
a boil over high heat. Whisk in the grits, return to a boil, then redu
heat to medium low and cook, partially covered, stirring frequent
until the broth has been absorbed and the grits are thick, about 5
utes. Add the cheese and stir to melt. Season to taste with salt an
pepper, remove from the heat, cover, and keep warm.
Ina12-inchnonstickskillet,cookthepancettain the remaining
oil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden and
ing to crisp, about 5 minutes.Meanwhile,pattheshrimpdryand put them in a large bowl. Spr
with the cayenne and tsp. black pepper and toss to combine.
Addthegreenpeppertotheskilletand cook, stirring, until softe
3 to 4 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, un
pink and just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the parsley.
Distributethegritsamong4shallowbowls and serve the shrim
mixture over the grits. Nadia Arumu
penne with sausage,fennel, and pecorinoThis hearty fall pasta gets a double dose of fennelflavor, from both fresh fennel and fennel seed in the
sausage. Serves4
Koshersalt
4 Tbs.extra-virginoliveoil
12 oz.sweetItaliansausage,casingsremoved
2 mediumyellowonions,halvedandthinlysliced
(about3 cups)
1 largefennelbulb(about1lb.),halved,cored,andthinlyslicedcrosswise(about4cups)
2 Tbs.choppedfreshsage
1 cuplower-saltchickenbroth
10 oz.driedpenne
1 oz.finelygratedPecorinoRomano(1 cupusingarasp
grater);moreforserving
Freshlygroundblackpepper
Bringalargepotofwell-saltedwatertoaboil over high heat.
Meanwhile, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet
over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring
and breaking it up into smaller pieces with the edge of a slotted
metal spoon, until browned and cooked through, about 5 min-
utes. Use the spoon to transfer the sausage to a paper-towel-
lined plate and pour off any fat left in the skillet.
Settheskilletovermedium-highheatand add the remaining
2 Tbs. oil and the onion.Cook, stirring occasionally, until it
softens and begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in the
fennel, sage, and tsp. salt. Lower the heat to medium and cook,
stirring occasionally, until the fennel is softened and the onion is
golden, about 5 minutes. Add the cooked sausage and chicken
broth and cook, stirring, until heated through, about 2 minutes.Meanwhile,cookthepenneintheboilingwater,stirring
occasionally, until cooked through, 10 to 11 minutes. Reserve
1 cup of the pasta water and drain the pasta in a colander.
Return the pasta to the pot over medium-high heat and stir
in the sausage mixture until well combined. Remove from the
heat and stir in the cheese, tsp. pepper, and enough reserved
pasta water to moisten, if necessary. Distribute among 4 bowls
and sprinkle with additional cheese. David Bonom
14 C C T/ 2 0 1 2
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kitchenandcompany.com
TMThe Cooking, Dining and Entertaining Store.
Christiana, DE Asheville, NC Newington, NHBel Air, MD Lewes, DE Wilmington, DE
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Recipes and more at belgioioso.com
BelGioioso Fresh Mozzarella is craftedlocal milk only a few hours after mi
This cheese is made to order, then pfor optimum freshness. Though traditioserved in Caprese salad, BelGioioso Mozzarella also enhancessalads and light meals. Savorit in pastas, or by itself withsalt, pepper and olive oil.
A fresh, soft cheese witha delicate, milky flavor
Fresh Mozzarell
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Shop Smarter, Eat Better
Marketplace
PomegranatesBeneath its turreted crown and crimson
rind, a pomegranate is lled with tight
clusters o ruby-red seeds. Bursting with
sweet-tart juice, these small jewels are
among all and winters greatest treats,
adding bright favor and a estive splash o
color to sweet and savory dishes alikeas
long as you can resist popping them intoyour mouth rst. Continued on page 18
try this
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Wonderful is most commonBelieved to have originated in Persia (todays
Iran), pomegranates grow on small, shrubby
trees in hot, dry regions. Botanically known
asPunica granatum, or apple with many
seeds, each fruit contains hundreds of arils
(the proper term for the juicy esh that en-
cases the actual seeds). Pomegranates have
long been a kitchen staple in India, Iran, and
Turkey; its only in recent years that theyve
become popular in the United States for their
avor and antioxidant powers.
Varieties range in color from brick red
to yellow and in size from 3 to 5 inches in
diameter. The U.S. market is dominated by
the variety Wonderful. Primarily grown in
California and available October through
January, Wonderfuls are about the size of
a grapefruit and have a purple-red rind.
Pomegranates keep for monthsOnce picked, pomegranates stop ripening.
Look for those with rm, smooth, fresh-
looking rinds and no soft spots. They should
be uniform in color and feel heavy with juice.
Minor surface blemishes are ne.
Stored at room temperature, whole
pomegranates will keep for several days. In a
plastic bag in the refrigerator, theyll last for
up to three months. Refrigerate loose seeds
in a zip-top bag for up to three days, or freeze
them for up to six months.
Pair with sweet or savory foodsEqual parts tart and sweet, pomegranate seedscan be sprinkled over yogurt or oatmeal,
tossed into salads, added to pancake or mun
batter, muddled and stirred into lemonade or
sparkling wine, or mixed into salsas, relishes,
or chutneys. They make a great addition to
chocolate (see the recipe at right). Of course,
theyre delicious eaten out of hand, too.
The juice is equally versatile. Buy it in the
supermarket produce section or make your
own: Blend the seeds until liqueed, then
strain. Try it in citrusy vinaigrettes, as a
poaching liquid for pears, or in glazes or pan
sauces for chicken, duck, or pork. Use it to
make sorbet or granitas. Boil it down withsugar until syrupy and add to cocktails, such
as planters punch.
Pomegranate pairs well with citrus, warm-
ing spices, nuts, rich meats such as lamb, duck,
and pork, and cheeses like feta, goat, and Brie
there are as many possibilities as there are
seeds in a pomegranate.
Melissa Denchak, contributing editor
pomegranates
Use water to seed a pomegranatef you try to just cut open the fruit and scoop out the seeds, youll stain your fingers anclothes. nstead, begin by removing the pomegranates crown and lightly scoring its rininto quarters from end to end. oak the fruit in a bowl of cool water for five minutes; thbreak the still-submerged fruit into sections with your fingers and gently remove theseeds. Discard the bitter rind, pith, and bits of membrane (which will float to the top) anthen drain the seeds in a sieve. A medium, 9-oz. pomegranate yields about cup seeds
chocolate-pomegranate-ginger bark
Impressive-looking yet quickand simple to make, thisconfection makes a perfectholiday or hostess gift. erves 6
10 oz. bittersweet chocolate (60%
cacao), broken into 1-inch pieces
1 cup fresh pomegranate seeds
(from 1 large pomegranate)
1 bs. minced candied ginger
tsp. fine sea salt
Line a baking sheet with a silicone bak-
ing mat or waxed paper. Put the choco-
late in a wide, shallow microwave-safe
bowl and microwave on high until it juststarts to melt, about 1 minute. Stir with a
spatula until the chocolate is completely
melted and smooth, heating in additional
15-second increments, if necessary.
Gently stir half of the pomegranate
seeds, the ginger (brea up any clumps wit
your fingers), and the salt into the choco-
late. Scrape the chocolate mixture onto
the baing sheet and spread it into an
8x10-inch rectangle. Sprinle the re-
maining pomegranate seeds evenly ove
the top, pressing them into the chocolate.
efrigerate until fully set, about 30 min-
utes. Brea the bar into chuns with your
hands (be careful not to crush the seeds),and serve. The bar will eep, refrigerated,
for up to 5 days M. D.
Watch a video of this technique
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ONE READERS SEASONAL SPECIALTY
Sunchoke and Shallot Salad
In a saucepan, simmer sunchokes in enough water to cover until tender. Drain and cool
slightly. In a large bowl, whisk together white wine vinegar, salt, pepper, and a pinch of
garlic powder. Slowly whisk in canola oil and olive oil. Carefully remove the sunchoke
skins, slice thickly, and add to the vinaigrette along with thinly sliced shallots. Toss and
allow the flavors to meld for at least an hour. Stir in chopped fresh
parsley just before serving. Christiane Potts, Winston-Salem, North Carolina
Sweet and SmokyAcorn SquashCut 2 seeded acorn squash into1-inch wedges and toss with oliveoil, pure maple syrup, chipotlepowder, and salt. Transfer to alarge, foil-lined rimmed bakingsheet and sprinkle with coarsesea salt. Bake in a very hot ovenuntil browned and tender.
Julissa Roberts
Penne with RoastedBroccoli and SausageOn a large rimmed bakingsheet, toss bite-size broccoliflorets with olive oil, salt, andcrushed red pepper flakes.Remove sweet Italian sausagefrom its casing and crumbleover the broccoli. Roast in a hotoven, tossing occasionally, untilthe sausage is cooked through.Toss with cooked penne, goldenraisins, finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, salt, and pepper.
Denise Mickelsen
Grape and Celery SaladCombine thinly sliced celeryand halved grapes in a medium
bowl. Toss with thinly slicedfresh mint and basil leavesand a vinaigrette made withstone-ground mustard, whitewine vinegar, and olive oil. Ronne Day
Slow-Cooked CeleryRoot with Pearl OnionsPeel and cut celery root into1-inch cubes. Put in a small Dutchoven with butter, peeled pearlonions, and salt. Cook, covered,over very low heat, letting thevegetables steam in their ownmoisture until very tender,about 1 hour. Shelley Wiseman
Swiss Chard ChipsRemove the stems from a bunchof Swiss chard. Rinse the l eaves
thoroughly, pat dry, and tearcoarsely into 2-inch pieces. Tosswith kosher salt and crushedred pepper flakes. Spread in asingle layer on a nonstick bakingsheet and bake until the l eavesare crisp and slightly darker butstill green. Layla Schlack
Honey-ThymeRoasted PearsArrange peeled, cored pearhalves cut side up in a butteredbaking dish. Drizzle with lemon
juice and honey, and dot withbutter. Add a splash of waterand tuck fresh thyme sprigs
around the pears. Roast in amedium oven until starting tosoften, basting occasionally.Turn the pears cut side downand roast until very tender andcaramelized. Serve with vanillaice cream or crme frache, oradd to a cheese plate or salad.
Jennifer Armentrout
What were cooking nowFine Cookingeditors (and a reader) share
some delicious ideas for in-season ingredients.
AT THE MARKET
PhotographsbyScottPhillips,excep
tbottoml
eft,courtesyofChristianePotts
F INECOOK ING .COM
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BIG BUY COOKING
PecansTheymay be pricey, but their rich, buttery flavor isworth every penny. B Y S H E L L E Y W I S E M A N
The Big Buy
What: Shelledpecan halves.How much:A twpound bag.How to store: Liall nuts, pecanscan turn rancidbecause of theircontent. If you pto use them soonafter buying, keethem well sealedat room temperature. Otherwise,freeze in a zip-tofreezer bag; theywill keep that wafor months.
PECANSLETS SAY IT TOGETHER: pih-KAHNS (not
PEE-kans)get lots of attention around Thanksgiving,
with pecan-studded stu ngs and pies gracing holiday
tables. This is fitting since pecans are native to North
America, but theyre always good to keep on hand simply
because theyre so delicious. They have a deep, almost
sweet flavor and a wonderfully crumbly texture thats
even better when theyre toasted.
A two-pound bag at a big-buy store retails for about
$8 a pound, so its a bargain compared to the smaller
bags of nuts sold at the grocery store. And while two
pounds may seem like a lot of nuts, youll fly through
them with the recipes here: maple spiced nuts that are
perfect for a predinner nibble, a sweet-and-savory salad
with Asian pears and pecans, and steak topped with a
decadent pecan-studded blue cheese butter. Just one
piece of advice: When measuring the pecans for these
recipes, always include a few extra because its impos-
sible to resist snacking on them.
beef tenderloin withroquefort-pecan buThese tender steaks, topped wittangy blue cheese and toasted n
butter, make for a main courseready in minutes but feels like y
fussed. Serves 4
2 oz. (1 cup) pecan halves, choppe
4 1 -inch-thick center-cut beeftenderloin steaks (6 to 7 oz. each
Kosher salt and freshly ground b
pepper
Tbs. vegetable oil
3 oz. Roquefort, at room temperat
2 oz. ( cup) unsalted butter, softe
2 Tbs. whole flat-leaf parsley leave
20 F i n e c o o k i n g o c T/ n o V 2 0 1 2
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maple and blackpepper pecansThese addictive spicy-sweet nuts
are just the thing to serve withcocktails. Yields 2 cups; serves 8
Tbs. egg white (1 large egg white)lightly beaten
Kosher salt
cup pure maple syrup
oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melteand cooled slightly
Coarsely ground black pepper
8 oz. (2 cups) pecan halves
Position a rack in the center of the
oven and heat the oven to 325F.
In a medium bowl, whisk the egg whit
with 1 tsp. salt until very frothy, about1 minute. Whis in the maple syrup,
butter, and 2 tsp. pepper; then stir in
the peans with a heatproof spatula.
Spread the nuts on a rimmed bak-
ing sheet and bae, stirrin one or
twie with the spatula, until they have
absorbed all the laze and are a shade
darer, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a
ra and let ool for about 5 minutes.
Stir with the spatula and ontinue to
ool until risp, about 5 minutes more
The pecans will keep in an airtiht
ontainer for 2 wees.
PhotographsbyScottPhillips;foods
tylingbyRonneDay
3 oz. ( cup) pecan halves, cut inthirds lengthwise
2 tsp. unsalted butter
Kosher salt
1 Tbs. sherry vinegar
1 tsp. granulated sugar
Freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbs. roasted walnut oil
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
small head (4 oz.) radicchio, cored,leaves separated and torn into3 or 4 pieces (4 lightly packed cups)
3 oz. frise, trimmed and torn into bite-size pieces (4 lightly packed cups)
medium (9 oz.) Asian pear, quarteredlengthwise, cored, and thinly slicedcrosswise ( cup)
pecan, radicchio, and asian pear saladCrisp, juicy Asian pears play off the crunchy buttered and toasted pecans andtender bitter greens in this colorful salad. Roasted walnut oil adds a welcomerichness. Serves 4
Position a rack in the center of the oven
and heat the oven to 350F.
Put the pecans on asmall rimmed baking
sheet and toast until frarant and pale
olden on the ut sides, 6 to 8 minutes.
Add the butter and tsp. salt and toss with
two heatproof spatulas until the butter is
melted and absorbed by the nuts. Set the
nuts aside (they an be added to the salad
warm or at room temperature).
In a small bowl whisk together the
vinegar, sugar, and tsp. eah salt and
pepper. Slowly whis in the oils until well
ombined.Combine the radicchio, frise, and pear
in a lare salad bowl and toss with just
enouh vinairette to oat. Add the nuts,
toss, and serve.
Position a rack in the center of the oven
and heat the oven to 350F.
Put the pecans on a small rimmed baking
sheet and toast until frarant and pale
olden on the ut sides, 6 to 8 minutes.
Let ool ompletely.
Pat the steaks dry and season with tsp.salt and tsp. pepper. Heat a 10-inh
ovenproof, heavy-duty sillet (preferably
ast iron; dont use a nonsti sillet) over
medium-hih heat for 2 minutes. Add the
oil and swirl the sillet to oat. Add the
steas and oo, flippin one with tons,
until well browned on both sides, 6 to
7 minutes total. Transfer the sillet to the
oven and oo the steas until an instant-
read thermometer reisters 125F for
medium rare, 5 to 6 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mash together
the cheese and butter with a for and
then stir in the peans.
Remove the skillet from the oven and topthe steas with the Roquefort butter. Let
the steas rest in the pan, loosely overed
with foil, for 5 minutes. Serve sprinled with
the parsley leaves.
F c k g . c F o r s o u r e s , s e e W h e r e t o B u y t
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food science
salt, the only rock we eat , is more than
just a seasoningits an essential avor in
our food. It can intensify aromas, balance
other avors, make meat taste juicier, and
preserve food for months or even years. Yet
a heavy hand with salt can easily ruin a dish.
Heres how to cook wisely with the worlds
most vital mineral.
H t fftth f f f?In a number of ways. Salt is one of the ve
basic tastes that were hard-wired to detect
(along with bitter, sweet, sour, and umami or
savory). It enhances foods by essentially turn-
ing up the volume of their salty avors. Salt
can also dial down the taste of bitter foods
by suppressing our perception of bitterness,
SaltThe kitchens most popularseasoning and how it works.b y a n d r e w s c H l o s s
a n d d a v i d j o a c H i m
and balance other tastes like sweet and sour
(salt added to desserts or vinaigrettes, for
example). Salt also unravels (or denatures)
the tight spiral structure of proteins, makingtheir avors tastier and more aromatic.
Even the texture of salt enhances the taste
of food. Flake salts like Maldon or Halen Mn
Gold sprinkled over a green salad transmit
crunchy bursts of saltiness that enhance the
soft texture and mild avors of lettuce leaves
and other vegetables. And surprisingly, salt
brings out aromas, too, because it helps
release aroma molecules from food into the
air. These stimulate our olfactory receptors,
helping us to smell things.
H t p f?Picture what happens when you sprinkle salt
on a sliced cucumber; within a few minutes,the salt is dissolved in a pool of cucumber
juice. Thats because water ows through food
cell walls towards greater concentrations of
dissolved particles, proteins, and pigments.
When you rub salt on a vegetable or meat,
it dissolves in the foods exterior moisture,
creating a concentrated solution that draws
more water from the interior to the surface.
This process illustrates salts role in
serving meat for jerky, ham, or hard-cu
salami. The salted meat is placed in circ
ing air, which evaporates emerging watthe meat dries out. Because microorgan
need moisture to survive, drying meat m
it inhospitable to molds and bacteria, th
lengthening the storage life of some sau
and hams for months.
H gkg t utk t uIn brining, the moisture ow described
is reversed. The concentration of salt in
brine is more dilute than the protein-ric
liquid inside the meat cells, and so the b
moves into the esh. There, the water fr
the brine bonds to the proteins, resultin
juicier meats. As salt enters the meat calters the structure of the muscle bers
proteins, swelling their water-holding c
ity by about 10 percent. Since most mea
loses about 20 percent of its moisture d
cooking, brining meat can cut moisture
by almost half.
the science of
22 f i n e c o o k i n g o c t/ n o v 2 0 1 2
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How and whenshould i salt my food?Not only does salt add avor, but it can also
alter the structure of proteins, speed thecooking of vegetables, and make sauces
thicken more quickly. Therefore, the answer to
this question depends on what youre cooking.
Bf ck
aw vegetables Salting crisp, juicy veg-
etables, like cucumbers or cabbage, before
tossing in a salad rids them of moisture that
would otherwise water down the dressing.
(Myth buster: Its said that salting eggplant
reduces its bitterness by releasing bitter
alkaloids with the drained water. This isnt
the case. The reduction in bitterness is due
to salts ability to reduce our perception of
bitterness on the palate.)rilled meats Seasoning meats with salt or
a salty spice rub draws out protein-rich juice
that dries on the surface during cooking,
creating a crisp, deeply seasoned crust.
Dried beans When soaking dried beans
before cooking, adding 2 tsp. salt per quart
of water greatly reduces cooking time by
replacing magnesium in the cell walls with
sodium, making the cells dissolve more easily
when heated. (Another myth buster: Its said
that salting beans before cooking slows down
the cooking, but its actually adding acid orsugar that slows it down, not salt.)
Du ck
cooed vegetables Salting the water for
boiling or blanching vegetables speeds up
cooking by hastening the breakdown of
hemicelluloses, substances that help hold
vegetable bers together. Because pure water
draws salts and other soluble nutrients from
the interior of vegetables, salting vegetable
cooking water also minimizes nutrient loss.
Pasta, rie, and potatoes Salting the
water for boiling these starchy ingredients
improves their avor by allowing the salt to
permeate the ingredients more deeply. Also,when dried pasta hits boiling water, starches
on the surface of the noodles gelatinize and
become sticky. Salt limits this starch gelation,
so liberally salting pasta water reduces sticki-
ness as it avors the pasta.
tar-tiened saes Thickening a
sauce with our or cornstarch reduces its
avor. This is because the long-chain carbo-
hydrates present in starches and ours bon
sodium ions to themselves, thereby reducin
our perception of sodium and aromas in th
sauce. The remedy is to add a little more s
Af ck
Wen salting or seasoning only If youre
adding salt solely for seasoning and not for
any of the reasons mentioned above, the be
time to do it is at the end of cooking. That
way, the salt crystals hit your palate direct
and you get the greatest avor impact with
the least amount of salt. Also, by salting at
the end of cooking, its easier to salt to taste
and avoid oversalting.
Wen sing nreined, ngrond salts
Salts like eur de sel, sel gris (gray salt),
and ake salts like Maldon contain crystals
of various sizes, so they dissolve on food anacross your palate over time. Adding them
after cooking results in prolonged and fulle
avor impact.
David Joachim and Andrew Schloss are the
authors of the award-winning reference book
The Science of Good Food.
A Cooks Guide to Saltere are two main types o salt.o salt is mined rom te eart by dig ging or bypmping water into salt deposits to dissolve te salt, and ten evaporating te resltingbrine in vam ambers to rerystallize it. ea saltis arvested rom oean watertats evaporated in open-air pans, in vam ambers, or by ire. Witin tese mainategories are several sbategories o linary salts. here are te most ommon types:
unreined salt usally sea salt (bt sometimes ro salt), evaporated in open-air pansand let nwased so it retains trae minerals and oter omponents tat provide niqelavors, aromas, olors, and rystal strtre. is ategory inldes ler de sel, graysalt, lae salt, and some lavored salts. ten sed as a inising salt at te end o ooing.
able salt iny, niorm, granlated rystals o reined salt ontaining 95 to 99 perentsodim loride and sally 2 perent antilmping agents lie sodim silioalminate(an alminm and silione ompond). ten sed i n baing reipes.
odized salt able salt spplemented wit potassim iodide or iodate to prevent iodine-deiieny onditions lie mental impairment and goiter. n areas were is and sea veg-etables (primary sores o iodine) are sare, iodized salt remains te most eetivemetod o preventing iodine-deiieny diseases. ten sed lie table salt.
koser salt coarsely grond reined salt (sometimes inlding an antilmping agent)manatred or oser btering, were its large rystals draw blood and moistre
rom te srae o meat. ten sed or ooing bease its easy to p in and sprinle.
cring salt eined salt ontaining added nitrite or nitrate; sed to re meats.
Piling salt Additives lie antiaing agents and iodine an ontribte o lavors topiles, so some salt manatrers sell additive-ree salt as pi ling salt.
Pretzel salt A oarse reined salt wit dry, solid grains tat limit te absorption o atrom te pretzel, wi an mae exposed rystals blaen dring baing.
llustrationb
y
StevenS
alerno
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BOOKS THAT COOK
The Reading ListNew must-reads for food lovers. B Y K I M B E R L Y Y. M A S I B A Y
Banana-Chocolate Chip Kugelhopf (page 154)This moist banana cake is not too sweet, and baing it in a mold makes it look pretty, too. The sambatter can also be made into cupcakes topped scrumptious Nutella Frosting (page 150).
Orange Sugar Cut-Out Cookies (page 83)Grated orange zest gives classic sugar cookies fresh twist. The recipe makes a generous batchdough, but it freezes well, so you can put aside to bake another day.
Susan Fenigers Street FoodIrresistibly Crispy, Creamy, Crunchy,Spicy, Sticky, Sweet Recipes
By Susan Feniger (Clarkson Potter, $27.50)
Cooks with an appetite for adventure will love
Susan Fenigers new book, in which the Los
Angeles-based chef, best known from TV and
Border Grill restaurants, celebrates street foo
from around the globe. A passionate world tra
Feniger fills the book with stories, snapshots,
collection of 83 authentic yet approachable re
that are true to their country of origin (which
mean hunting down unusual ingredients). Eac
perfected for the American home cook, with h
tips and techniques to guide the way. While th
much novelty to discover here (like Cantonese
ish Cakes and Stued Bitter Melon Soup), ma
dishes, such as Heirloom Tomatoes with Blackand Basil Vinaigrette and Korean Glazed Shor
Ribs, are truly universal in their appeal.
Uruguay Chivito Steak and Fried Egg Sandwich(page 102)South American cheese steak! This terrific, habforming sandwich combines the familiarsearsteak, fried egg, provolone, caramelized onionswith a few surprises: fresh cilantro, prosciutto,a traditional Uruguayan condiment called Golf(ketchup, mayo, and lime juice).
Ditalini Pasta with Roman Broccoli, White Beanand Pecorino (page 137)In this classic Roman pasta dish, zesty broccolislowly cooked in olive oil, meets creamy, comfo
ing white beans. A squeeze of bright lemon anda sprinkle of salty pecorino bring the flavors intperfect balance.
Kimberly Y. Masibay is a Fine Cooking
contributing editor.
Cooking O the ClockRecipes from My DowntimeBy Elizabeth Falkner (Ten Speed Press, $29.99)
With two acclaimed San Francisco Bay-area restau-
rants to run, chef Elizabeth Falkner lives at a fran-
tic pace. When she does get a chance to chill out
at home, she makes simple, satisfying food. Cooks
who enjoy easing into the kitchen at the end of a
busy day will appreciate this collection of Falkners
favorite recipes, most of them unfussy updates
of comforting classics, like Tomato-Centric Cobb
Salad with peppery arugula, fresh tarragon, and
crme frache. There is a chapter devoted to grilled
pizzas and another that features starchy main
courses like Spaghetti and Meatballs and Crab Pad
Thai. Falkner is famous for her creative desserts,
and although those recipes are more impressive
than easy, theyre definitely worth the eort.
Crab Pad Thai (page 126)Enriched with coconut milk and succulent crabmeat,this spicy, fragrant, hot-and-sour noodle dish com-bines the flavors of two of Falkners favorite Thaidishestom yum soup and pad thai.
Cherry Tomato Confit (page 168)Plop some tomatoes, garlic, herbs, and olive oil into abaking dish, roast for about an hour, andvoil!youhave an almost effortless (and deeply flavored)
alternative to tomato sauce.
The Seasonal BakerEasy Recipes from My Home Kitchento Make Year-RoundBy John Barricelli (Clarkson Potter, $35)
With his new book, chef John Barricelli, owner of
the beloved SoNo Baking Company in Norwalk,
Connecticut, serves up sweet and savory recipes
that he makes at home, often with his three children.
Even beginner bakers should find success with his
Peach-Raspberry Crisp, Cranberry-Pumpkin
Mu ns, and a bounty of other quick breads, crisps,
and cobblers that can be whipped up in no time.
(Major bonus: The mu n batters keep for days inthe fridge, which means you can bake a few at a
time for warm-from-the-oven mu ns whenever you
want them.) Experienced bakers will delight in
tackling more complex projects, such as the elegant
Lemon Sou Glac (a light, creamy frozen
sou ). Throughout, the recipes are written with
care, with tips to help achieve excellent results.Touch the cookbook titles to see recipeexcerpts from these cookbooks onFineCooking.com
F R OM OUR
C ON T R I BUT OR S
Bruce Weinstein andMark Scarbrough make
grains the main coursein Grain Mains (Rodale,
$24.99). Recipes likeTomatoes Stuffed withBlack Rice and Shrimp,and Tabbouleh withChicken and Pineapplewill have you lookingat grains in a wholenew way.
In Mini Treats & Hand-Held Sweets (Taunton,$22.95), expert bakerand Fine Cooking con-tributing editor Abigail
Johnson Dodge pres-ents 100 easy-to-eattreats with step-
by-step directions thatmake the cookies, can-dies, and mini tarts seemas much fun to make asthey are to eat.
the editors
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ADD DRAMA TO ANY SPACE.
The simple, yet enchanting addition of a skylight will impact a room in a way no other redesign
or renovation can. To discover the drama being sparked in this room, go to dramaheights.com. Download the VELUPlanner app at the A
Android Market to s
a skylight can bring
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repertoire
m
risotto is the ultimate comfort food. I realized that years ago ater I arrived,
eeling jet-lagged and homesick, in the Veneto region o northeast Italy. My riend Pia
ofered to make me a bowl o risotto with zucchini straight rom her garden. I ate bite
ater creamy bite, eeling rejuvenated, happy, and excited to be there.
Ater that, I learned all I could about the dish during my travels in northern Italy.
Almost obsessively, I asked all the cooks I met or their secrets. Is it the variety or
reshness o the rice that makes the risotto so good? Does the broth make a diference?
Do you have to stir the whole time? Which is more important, technique or ingredients?
I know now its a little o everything. Its taking care to use quality ingredients, having
the patience to stir constantly, and ollowing a ew o the tips that Pia and other won-
derul Italian cooks have taught me along the way. Now Im passing them on to you.
RisottoWhen it comes to this classic Italian rice dish, theres as muchcomfort in the making as in the eating. b y J o a n n e W e i r
Use the right pot skillet is too wide, a saucepan too narrow. heavy-duty5- to 6-quart stainless-steel or enaeled-cast-iron pot is just right.
Choose a risotto rice here are several varieties, all of which are able to absorblarge aounts of liquid without breaking down to ush. rborio is the ostcoon, but I like carnaroli and vialone nano for their firness.
Toast the rice eating the rice with oil (shown above) until opaque in the centerand translucent around the edges creates a coating that keeps the rice froabsorbing too uch liquid or releasing too uch starch and falling apart.
Add the wine first It softens the toasted rice and adds acidity and flavor.
Dilute the broth If you are using store-bought chicken broth, buy the low- orno-salt variety. hether its hoeade or store bought, always dilute it with anequal aount of water. t full strength, it becoes overpowering.
Dont stop stirring his prevents the rice fro sticking to the sides of the potand helps it release its starch.
Let risotto stand before serving 5-inute rest gives the butter and cheesetie to elt into the liquid and bind to the rice, aking for unbelievably silkyrisotto.
Need to Know
risotto
To avoid overcooking your risotto,taste it frequently, beginning abou15 minutes after you add the first laful of broth. Yields 5 cups; serves 6 afirst course
2 bs. olive oil
1 ediu yellow onion, finely choppe
3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
14 oz. (2 cups) arborio, vialone nano,or carnaroli rice
cup dry white wine, such as Sauvign
Blanc or Pinot Grigio
1 oz. (2 bs.) unsalted butter, cut into4 pieces
2 oz. finely grated Parigiano-Reggia
(2 cups using a rasp grater)
osher salt and freshly ground black p
In a wide heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart pot
the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add
onion and cook, stirring occasionally, un
soft and translucent, 5 to 8 minutes.
meanwhile, in a 3-quart saucepan, brin
broth and 3 cups of water to a bare sim
over medium-low heat.
dd the rice to the onion and stir with
wooden spatula until the grains are coa
with oil, slightly translucent around the eand opaque in the center, 2 to 3 minute
dd the wine, raise the heat to ediu
stir until almost evaporated, about 1 min
Using a large ladle, add about cup of
broth. Stir, mixing any rice sticking to th
pots sides back into the mixture, until m
of the broth is absorbed, the rice no lon
seems loose when you shake the pot, a
a wide trail forms when you run the spat
across the bottom of the pot.
Continue to add broth in -cup incre
stirring constantly and scraping around
edge of the pot, until the rice is al dente
a bit firm to the bite but without a hard o
crunchy center) and most of the broth iabsorbed, 18 to 22 minutes. (You may o
may not use all of the broth; if you run o
use hot water.)
Iediately turn off the heat. Add an
cup broth and the butter, Parmigiano
giano, and salt and pepper to taste, and
quickly. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and
for 5 minutes. Stir again and serve.
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Variations
BURU SUS, PC, SG
Add 4 oz. chopped pancetta with the onions
and cook as directed. Add 3 cups -inch-
diced butternut squash and cook, stirring,
for 5 minutes. Continue with the basic risotto.
Add 1 bs. chopped fresh sage along with the
butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
PRCII mUSRm GRG
ently simmer oz. dried porcini ush-
roos in cup heavy crea until softened,
about 5 minutes. Remove the mushrooms
from the cream, coarsely chop, and return to
the cream. Cover and keep warm while you
make the basic risotto. At the end, instead ofbroth and butter, add the mushroom cream,
4 oz. room-temperature Gorgonzola, and
just oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
SRImP, CRRY mS, SR
n a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet, roast
3 cups cherry toatoes tossed with 1 bs.
olive oil at 450 until soft and brown in
spots, 15 to 20 minutes. n a large skillet, cook
1 lb. shelled and deveined large (31 to 35 per
lb.) shrip in 1 bs. olive oil over medium-
high heat until just opaque, about 2 minutes.
nstead of chicken broth, make the basic
risotto with fish stock or bottled cla juice
heated with a large pinch ofsaffron. Add the
shrimp and tomatoes along with the butter
and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
RS m
Remove the fronds from 1 lb. fennel, chop,
and set aside. rim and cut the fennel bulb
into -inch pieces. n a large heavy-duty
baking sheet, toss with 2 bs. olive oil and roastat 375, stirring once, until tender and golden,
about 30 minutes. Make the basic risotto. Add
the roasted fennel, fennel fronds, 1 tsp. finely
grated leon zest, and 1 bs. leon juice along
with the butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Add more broth when your spatulaleaves a trail through the rice. ddingbroth in sall aounts keeps the
grains close together to create frictionwhile stirring, which releases thestarch that akes risotto creay.
CS IP
PhotographsbyScottPhillips;food
stylingbyRonneDay
Joanne Weir is a cookbook author, cooking teacher,
andFine Cookings consulting editor at large.
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GO SHOPPING
Great FindsOur latest buys for the kitchen and table.
B Y L A Y L A S C H L A C K
A New Leaf
Made of olive wood, these beautiful fig leafservers feel smooth and light, making it apleasure to serve even the simplest salad.Because theyre handcrafted, no two sets areexactly the same. Care for them gentlyhandwash, dry immediately, and wipe occasionallywith bees wax or mineral oiland theyllbecome an heirloom. $38; amazon.com; 866-216-1072.
Cubed or FlakedSyrup has two new rivals for adding pure maple flavorto food. Tonewood maple flakes make a pretty, crunchytopping for cakes, fresh berries, and salad. Theylldissolve and add a mellow sweetness to cappuccino,roasted vegetables, or grilled meats. The solid maplesugar cube can be grated over just about anything. Welove how the gratings melt like little snowflakes overyogurt and oatmeal. 4-oz. jar of flakes for $9.99, 7-oz.cube for $16.99; tonewoodmaple.com; 855-755-5434.
Top of the Pecking Order
Around this time of year, a lot of thought goesinto putting the perfect turkey on the table.Why not give it some adorable, highly func-tional companions? The Birdrizzler oil andvinegar set designed by Carol Jacobs is madeof white porcelain; both pieces have detach-able heads held snugly in place by silicone
rings, and small holes in the beaks allow forperfect pouring. $22.50; philamuseumstore.org; 800-329-4856.
Flower Power
Hibiscus-based Sorelliqueur, handcrafted byJack from Brooklyn, haswarm clove, nutmeg, andcinnamon flavors, likemulled wine, but its alsobright and fruity, withnotes of ginger. Typi-cally made in Caribbeanhomes around the holi-
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GrateExpectations
Microplanes newbar tool does whatMicroplanes do bestcreate fluffy, pith-freecitrus zest. It also has acouple of bells and whistles:a bottle opener and a garnishingblade to create pretty citrus peelcurls. The pocket-size stainless-steel instrument is dishwashersafe. $19.95; williams-sonoma
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Roast on Your Laurels
This flexible silicone wreath is as versatile as it isfun to play with. It can act as a roasting rack (itsoven safe to 482F) or a trivet, and because it canbe molded into just about any position, it works forpans of all sizes and shapes. If all that isnt enough,its also dishwasher safe. $24.99; prepara.com;888-878-8665.
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T h e l o u r t h a t w i l lCHANGE YOUR MIND ABOUT FLOURI you want breads that rise higher, cakes that are moister and pie cruststhat are akier, then the brand o our you choose defnitely matters.
Only the innermost heart of the wheat
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We use only wheat grown by American
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Read our blogs, start a discussionand find tested recipes on our website.
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Nourishing Thanksgiving TraditionsThis holiday meal might seem like an unhealthy splurge, but many of its typical ingredientsare better for you than you may think. B y E l l i E K r i E g E r
the good life
Cranberrieshavearemarkabletypeofantioxidantthatpreventsbacteriafromstickingtoourcellsandcausingdisease.
chances are, eating healthfully is about
the furthest thing from your mind at Thanks-
giving. It is, after all, the start of a season
that turns our attention toward celebrating
and indulging. Its a chance to enjoy holiday
dishes that connect us with our past and
the loved ones around us, and of course, to
simply eat for the pure pleasure of it. But you
might be surprised to know that while youre
doing all that delicious celebrating, youre
also getting a powerful nutritional boost.
A closer look at the key ingredients of the
traditional Thanksgiving table reveals some
remarkable health benets.Turkey The star of the feast does more
than make a glorious presentation and feed
an extended family. Its a nutritional prize
toojust a 3-ounce serving provides nearly
half a days worth of lean protein and is
packed with minerals like selenium and zinc,
which are key for a strong immune system. It
could be just what we need to help us through
the cold and u season.
Sweet potatoes These hearty, sweet, and
fragrant spuds get their deep orange color
from the antioxidant beta-carotene. This
form of vitamin A helps protect every cell in
our bodies, but especially targets the skin,
eyes, and immune system. On top of that,sweet potatoes have more potassium than a
banana, so they help keep blood pressure in
check, and theyre a good source of vitamin C
and ber. All in all, a pretty sweet package.
Squash Beta-carotene is the orange-
hued star of the squash family, too, and its
disease-preventing properties extend across
Good to KnowThese are my top five healthy ways to useThanksgiving leftovers, from potatoesto turkey.
Sweet potato hash with eggs Saut achopped onion in olive oil in a largeskillet, add a diced red bell pepper andsome diced leftover sweet potato, andcook until browned and warmed through.Serve as a bed for poached eggs.
Turkey, bok choy, and almond stir-fryHeat oil in a wok or deep skillet. Addminced garlic and ginger, sliced bokchoy, and leftover turkey and stir untilthe bok choy is tender and the turkeyis warmed through. Season with soysauce and sesame oil. Garnish withsliced almonds.
Curried pumpkin or squash soup Sautchopped onion with a little curry powdin a large saucepan. Add cooked squasor pumpkin and chicken broth. Bring toboil, then pure.
Turkey, cranberry, and Brussels sproulettuce cups Finely chop leftover tur-key, Brussels sprouts, and almonds orcashews. Toss with cranberry sauce. F
Bibb lettuce leaves with the mixture aeat taco-style. Quinoa salad with pumpkin seeds and
squash Saut a chopped onion withsome ground cumin and coriander. Tosswith cooked, cooled quinoa, diced leftovsquash, and pumpkin seeds. Dress witan olive oil and lemon juice vinaigrette
all varieties, from pumpkin to hubbard. Eat-
ing it could also make you more attractive by
imparting a warm hue to your skin. Research
from the University of Bristol, in England,
found that people given a diet high in beta-
carotene were found to have more attractive
skin tones than those who were suntanned.
So enjoy squash throughout the holiday
season; it might help keep that winter pallor
from setting in.
Brussels sprouts Its probably not news
that Brussels sprouts are healthy, but this
holiday staple oers more healing power than
you may realize. Not only do they providea sizable dose of essential nutrients like
vitamin C, ber, folate, potassium, and beta-
carotene, but they also contain powerfu
anti-cancer and anti-inammatory prop
ties. Luckily, they contribute all this goo
even if you choose to cook them with ba
Nuts Besides providing a sumptuous
crunch and nutty avor, holiday favorite
almonds, walnuts, and pecans have hea
healthy monounsaturated and omega-3
essential minerals like magnesium and
and plenty of antioxidants.
Cranberries These tart little wonderhave antioxidants called proanthocyani
which act like Teon, preventing bacter
from sticking to our cells and causing d
ease. Scientists think this anti-stick ben
the main reason cranberries prevent ur
tract infections and could also work to p
tect the stomach and gums.
In the recipe opposite, cranberries a
simmered with orange juice and maple
to make a healthful, tasty cranberry sau
thats sure to become a holiday favorite
Serve it as part of your holiday meal an
enjoy the nutritional benets cranberri
have to oer. The only thing that can enthe eect further, for pleasure and healt
to slow down and savor every bite.
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1 12-oz. package fresh or frozen cranberries
(about 3 cups), picked over and rinsed
1 cup pure maple syrup
1 medium orange, finely grated to yield
1 tsp. zest , squeeze d to yield / cup jui ce
orange-maple cranberry saucePure maple syrup makes all the difference here, so avoid artificially flavored syrup.Cooking the cranberries just until they burst prevents the sauce from becoming too
thick. Yields about 2 cups; serves 10
Combine the cranberries, maple syrup, ad
orag juc a 3-quart saucpa ad brg
to a bol ovr mdum-hgh hat. Rduc
th hat to mdum low ad smmr, strrg
occasoally, just utl th crabrrs burst,
about 5 muts.
Remove from the heat, str th zst, ad
lt cool to room tmpratur, about 1 hour
(h sauc wll thc as t cools. it may bmad up to 3 days ahad ad stord a
artght cotar th rrgrator.)
Registered dietitian Ellie Krieger is a Fine
Cooking contributing editor. Her latest book
is Comfort Food Fix.
f i n e C k i n . C
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The Entertainers KitchenAward-winning restaurateur Tom Douglas serves hungry dinner guests with ease
from his Seattle home kitchen. b y c h a r l e s m i l l e r
as a delaware native, Tom Douglas is no stranger to fresh
seafood. Having grown up in a family of 10, hes also used to
cooking for a crowd. Early on, Tom and his siblings
learned that dipping a chicken neck tied to a string
into the Chesapeake River would yield buckets of
blue crabs; dinner at the Douglas house on
those nights always included a heapingplatter of fresh crab cakes.
Fast forward a few decades
and Toms commitment to
using the freshest
ingredients
(seafood,
behind the kitchen door
especially), his attention to culinary detail, and
his natural ability to create welcoming spaces f
dining have earned him 13 Seattle restaurants,
cookbooks, and 3 James Beard awards, includi
this years Outstanding Restaurateur in Ameri
But creating successful restaurants isnt the
only thing Tom does. He works for several localnonprot organizations, and dinner at the Doug
home with his wife and partner, Jackie Cross, is
perennial favorite item at charity auctions. In fa
a typical weekend dinner for the couple often
includes 10 guests, all gathered around the hug
picnic-style table that sits just o their kitchen.
recently paid Tom a visit to nd out just what it
takes to entertain big.
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The Layout
To accommodate the large-scale entertainingstyle they enjoy, Tom and Jackie turned the
former family room of their 1950s ranch house
into a big, hard-working kitchen. The space
now combines restaurant-grade appliances
and ttings with custom woodwork in an open
oor plan that keeps everything close at hand.
The room that used to be the kitchen is now
the dining room, anchored by a 10-foot-long
wooden table thats just a few steps from the
kitchen on one side and from a deck overlooking
Puget Sound on the other. The beauty of the
two adjoining spaces, explains Tom, is that
we can serve in the kitchen, eat in the dining
room, and then leave dirty dishes out of sight
in our tucked-away dishwashing station untilIm ready to clean them the next morning.
The KitchenThe heart of the kitchen is the island, says
Tom, referring to the maple-topped, baseball-
diamond-shaped island thats the centerpiece
of the room. Its massive but mobile, thanks
to heavy-duty casters. I can chop veggies
and herbs right on the maple top, so I need a
cutting board only when Im prepping sh or
meat. Sliding doors near the bar stools open
to reveal cookware storage, and on the refrig-erator side, big drawers hold pantry items.
A cutout in the island top opens into a trash
container for quick, easy scrap disposal.
Toms known for his Pacic Northwest
Asian-style cuisine, so at rst, his remodeled
kitchen included a 120,000 BTU wok burner.
We discovered that our dog could turn the
wok burner on with her tail, Tom recalls, so
it had to go. A six-burner Garland stove
two ovens and a griddle provides the co
power now, complete with knobs that ar
from wagging tails.
Magnetic strips mounted on the side
Liebherr refrigerator (right) and above
Lambert prep sinks (page 33) keep Tom
knives, spatulas, graters, and spices wit
reach, as do custom-built hanging rackspots, pans, and other tools. I hate sear
through drawers for things, explains T
put my herbs and spices in aluminum can
with clear lids, and glue big steel washe
the bottom so they stick to the strips. Op
Metro Super Erecta shelving units at th
dishwashing station and next to the stove
complete the everything-in-sight philoso
When dinner
is ready, I roll the
island toward the re-
frigerator until the edge
is under the pendant
lights, which transforms
it into a buffet for
serving.
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The Dining RoomWhen we travel, were always on the looko
for plates, platters, and other dining room
gear, says Tom, who designed the custom-
built hutch (left). It holds stacks of dishes
and racks of wine glasses, adding color and
interest to the room and encouraging trave
stories during dinner parties. Below thestemware, a row of pickets allows platters
stand on edge so they can be easily seen an
appreciated, and just as easily pulled into du
The other large piece in the room is the
marble-topped sideboard (above). Heavy-
duty, full-extension drawer slides make eac
deep drawer fully accessible, and weve
packed it full of atware, linens, and
tchotchkes from around the world, says To
The focal
point of the dining
room is the picnic-
style table that Tom,
Jackie, and Jackies father
built. Made from East Af-
rican bubinga wood, it
weighs 1,000 lb. and
easily