4.RESULT
MANAGEMENT OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION RETAIL BASED ON REUSE
– A STRUGGLE WITH MULTIPLE LOGICS
1. PURPOSEThe purpose of the study is to show the complexity in the management of fashion-retail based on reuse by identifying and explaining obstacles in the reuse process.
3.MATERIAL AND METHODThe study is inspired by ethnography and based on 41 interviews and additional observations, focusing on actions and practices at ReTuna, a shopping mall based on reuse.
ReTuna aims to be a traditional mall, but the shops sell reused products.
5.CONCLUSIONThe complexity is a result of the need to manage and balance different logics, which are enacted by the actors’ actions. Thus, the goal of re-circulating as much fashion products as possible is hindered by actors not being able to handle different logics equally due to a lack of knowledge, experience and skills, coordination, and material conditions. The shopping mall logic receives most support.
AUTEX2019 – 19th World Textile Conference on Textiles at the Crossroads, 11-15 June 2019, Ghent, Belgium
Scan for a 2 minutes BBC-video about ReTuna
Shopping mall logic
Reuse logic &Work integration logic
Basis of attentionThe mall’s primary goals focus on all
logics, but the prioritization is fuzzy. The owner and the management prioritize the
shopping mall logic, while some of the stores do otherwise.
Basis of strategyThe reuse ambition is obstructed as the management has emphasized the creation of a system for market transactions, i.e., the shopping mall
logic which does not favour the reuse of fashion.
Primary actorsAt the mall, the same actor plays
many roles. The combination of different roles and lack of experience and knowledge
complicates the work.
Focus of practicesPractices at the mall and the material
context are seldom in line with all three logics at the same time, and this is likewise a source of obstacles to the
reuse of fashion.
2.CONCEPTUAL FRAMEWORKA performative perspective on institutional logics [1][2] enables the identification of three enacted rationalities working in favour and in conflict with each other.
1. Meyer, J.W. and B. Rowan, Institutionalized organizations: Formal structure as myth and ceremony. American journal of sociology, 1977. 83(2): p. 340-363.2. Lindberg, K., Performing multiple logics in practice. Scandinavian Journal of Management, 2014. 30(4): p. 485-497.
Reuse logic
Shopping mall logic
Work integration logic
Hedegård L ([email protected]), Gustafsson E, & Paras M. K.The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, Sweden
Photos and images: The authors and ReTuna
