Cellar Management Course Contents Brief History Details of how brewing started to modern day conditions

The Brewing Process Ingredients Malting Milling and Mashing

Sparging Specific and Original Gravity

Brewery Conditioned or Cask Lager

Ordering and Delivery Container Sizes Stock Control Dealing with Order Receiving Delivery Used Containers Hygiene in Cellar General Cleaning Cellar Maintenance Keg Beers Stock Rotation Bringing Down to Temperature

Different Heads Equipment Pipe Cleaning Frequency of Clean Theory and Practice Visual Checking

Testing Results Opening and Closing Duties Candidates will be encouraged to draw up their own checklist

Health & Safety Handling C0’2 and mixed gas General safety in the cellar Wine Storage and Knowledge Wine Champagne

Fortified Wines Spirits Storage and Knowledge Correct Storage Knowledge

Courses can be adapted to suit individual or company requirements

Cellar Management

Introduction The most important room in a public house, like the engine room of a ship is your cellar. Your pub will not run efficiently without you looking after and maintaining your cellar. It’s not just the beers in your cellar we also need to look at the cleanliness, the ordering, deliveries, the stock control, stock rotation, health and safety, line cleaning, etc. So get used to the idea that successful publicans spend 2 hours or more in their cellar every day dealing with the needs of the cellar. Follow the golden rules within this manual and you will be on your way to building a good business, neglect the cellar and you will be on your way to

ruination. Remember good beer is the key to your success, a publicans reputation is built around how he/she looks after their beer, serve a bad pint and you could loose your custom and your reputation. LTTA believe professional cellar management is essential for any outlet selling

and dispensing alcoholic drinks. We will spend all the time that is needed to ensure you get it right, we will also be happy to visit you in your pub or retail outlet to give you any further advice if required. It is also the companies policy remember to have advice available at any time or get back to you a.s.a.p. (to contact our advice line simply telephone 0121 459 6080) Before we start on the cellar it is important that you know something of the product you are selling, not only for the role you are going to play as a responsible licensee but so that you can understand the need to look after your products and the correct way to do so. 

Brief History

Beer has been in production well in excess of 2000 years from the knowledge we have it was first produced by the Egyptians. Beer has been drunk in this country since the Romans times. Although hops had been used in brewing on the continent since the thirteenth century. It was not until the British started to use hops in the fifteenth century thought to have been introduced by the Flemings, that we started to get the thinner longer lasting and more palatable drink that we look forward to enjoying today. Production of ales since the time that hops were introduced has improved greatly over the years giving British beers a world renowned flavour that many people from all over the world come just to sample as the good old British pub is well respected and talked about everywhere.

Lager on the other hand is derived from the German word for "to keep" hence the longer shelf life of today’s lagers, over those of real ales. The method and the principle ingredients used in the brewing process have remained unchanged from those early days. Although many old timers will tell you beer is all chemicals, nowadays it is only particular flavourings and differing methods of storage, to suit present day taste and national brewing needs.

The Brewing Process 

Introduction Although some equipment has changed the basic principles of brewing and the materials used have remained the same for hundreds of years. Beer is made from natural homegrown products and it is the art of the brewer to choose their ingredients well. They then must control the brewing process all the way through to maintain the quality and variety that today’s demanding customer requires, whilst at the back of their mind remember they are dealing with a perishable product.

Ingredients The basic raw materials are MALT (malted barley) for strength flavour and colour; HOPS for the bitter flavour we enjoy; YEAST the fermentation agent; WATER (called liquor by the brewing industry) before the introduction of public water supplies brewers used local wells and rivers for their water which gave the gave the final product its distinctive flavour, dependant on the mineral content of the water. Today brewers are able to adjust the mineral content of their water supply to suit the needs of a particular brew this is were the old timers get their ideas that all modern brews are chemically made.

Brewing Process

Malting The first stage of the brewing process is the preparation of the malt often carried out

away from the breweries by firms called maltsters there are still some breweries that produce their own maltings. The principle grain used in the brewing process is barley although other un-malted cereals such as wheat and maize have been used dependent on the type of brew. Barley corn is steeped in water spread out on the malting floor

where under controlled conditions of temperature and humidity, germination takes place this takes about five days when rootlets appear. The barley is now called MALT to stop further growth the malt is kilned (heated) the longer it is heated the darker it becomes

thus determining the colour or type of product that is going to be brewed. Dark malt for stouts light malts for lager and so on. Enzymes are formed during this process allowing the starch contained in the grain to convert to sugar in the next stage of the brewing process.

Milling and Mashing Milling is the process used to lightly crush the malt in roller mills before being mixed

with hot LIQUOR (water) in the MASH TUN once crushed it is known as GRIST (heard the fable More grist to the Mill). Great care is taken to ensure the mix grist and liquor are of the correct balance before the MASHING takes place. The mashing temperature is very important and is known as the STRICKING HEAT. Malts for different brews may be

mashed at slightly different temperatures but will all be in the region of 65ºC (150ºF) Mashing converts the starch in the grist into a number of different sugars which are

dissolved in the liquor to form a sweet extract called WORT (pronounced wert) after a period of time one to three hours dependant on the grist used, the wort is slowly drained from the mash tun into the COPPERS during the draining more hot liquor (78ºC) is sprayed onto the mash to wash out the last of the sugars this process is SPARGING as breweries waste nothing the spent grain is sold of as cattle fodder, as they still retain some nutrients.

Boiling The wort now in the copper has the HOPS introduced and is boiled vigorously for about two hours, the base of the hops contain insoluble resins that gives the beer the characteristic bitter flavour we have come to expect. Some sugars may be added at this stage should it be necessary for their strength or flavour of the particular brew.

The hop cones are dried out in oast houses before being sent to the brewery many brewers now use hops in pellet form saving on storage space and leaving less debris in the beer.

After two hours of boiling the wort is drained through coolers into the FERMENTING VESSEL the spent hops are also removed at this stage by straining

the hopped wort through a giant sieve know as a HOP BACK. once again with the breweries using their initiative sell off the spent hops as fertilizer. When the now cooled and aerated hopped wort has been run into the

fermenting vessels the specific gravity and volume is measured by the customs and excise so they can asses the amount of duty to be levied on the brewer.

Fermenting

Fermentation is a natural process caused by the introduction of YEAST (pitching the yeast). Yeast is a living organism that feeds upon the nutrients in the wort and provided that temperature is maintained at the correct level will use the

sugars in the wort to produce alcohol some flavourings and carbon dioxide. Once again the clever breweries are taking off the carbon dioxide bottling it and selling it to publicans to raise your keg beer with. The yeast will multiply during this process and rise to the surface, in the case of ales or top fermenting beers as they are called but don’t worry it is carefully skimmed off from time to time, the norm being that the brewers will finish up with five times the amount of yeast they started with. So after keeping some for future use will sell of the surplus for food preparation, whisky distillation and tonic. Different beers are fermented with there own yeast and great care is taken to ensure the strains are not infected by wild yeast, which would impair the flavour. Fermentation takes about five days after which the wort is now beer. Although not yet good enough to drink as it has to be allowed to mature and come into

condition

Conditioning Dependant on the type of beer required some beers are put directly into cask that may have a small amount of hops added to enhance the aroma and before leaving the brewery will have finings added that will help the beer come into

condition in the cellar taking some twenty four hours to become bright, as the finings help all the yeast or other debris to sink to the bottom of the cask. These products are known as cask conditioned ales, traditional ales or real ale.

Keg beers although produced in the same way as real ale will not be racked but will be passed to a conditioning tank where it will be conditioned and stored until ready for kegging. Keg beers are known as brewery conditioned beers.

Lager Lager is also produced the same way as real ale until fermentation takes place then it will be fermented in a closed container, for temperature control, and the

yeast that is introduced will sink to the bottom and are referred to as bottom fermented beers. Fermentation of lager will take place at 6ºC to 12ºC compared to 14ºC to 20ºC

for other beers the period of fermentation is also longer than other beers usually 6 to 7 days.

Once fermentation has taken place and passed to the conditioning tanks it is held at a

temperature of 5ºC to prevent any further fermentation taking place. Lager is a keg beer as are other beers that are brewery conditioned, when these beers are required for kegging they are pasteurized by passing over hot metal plates which takes the beers up to 76ºC and holds it at that temperature for 25 seconds. It is then immediately chilled this process kills all the living yeast effectively preventing any further fermentation makes the beer bright therefore giving it a longer shelf life. Once the beer has been pasteurised it is then kegged using a back pressure of carbon dioxide meaning the keg is filled with carbon dioxide ensuring a controlled filling while infusing gas into the beer to maintain its condition and allows for a nice head when the beer is dispensed.

Original gravity

Specific gravity is the weight of a liquid compared with the weight or density of distilled water of equal volume for brewing purposes distilled water is rated at a specific gravity of 1000 the measurement being made with a saccharometer the specific gravity of the wort is measured when it is passed to the fermenting vessels but before the yeast is pitched. This is then known as the ORIGINAL GRAVITY or O.G. as this measures the availability of sugars that will be

converted to alcohol, the original gravity is the useful guide to the final quality of the beer being produced. Yeast ferments (or feeds) of the sugars in the wort giving off two waste products, alcohol and carbon dioxide. (CO2) By law the breweries are required to display the original gravity of their beers. But as it is not possible to produce a wort that is a set O.G. every time, a range is given within the probabilities to be able to produce a wort. However as the laws on drink driving have become strict breweries are displaying the strengths

of their beers. As a percentage by volume, in other words Alcohol by Volume A.B.V.

Ordering and Delivery

Is it good guess work, luck, or skilled management that helps us get the ordering right well if the truth was known it is probably a combination of all three but in

saying that you do have to learn the basics otherwise you could start loosing money. So lets look at the situation logically we have to except there will be certain

weeks that we have to guesstimate, Christmas Easter Bank Holidays Industrial Disputes many things that can affect our ordering. The normal is that we will

order on a weekly basis, this happens by the person responsible for taking your order, will have a set time to phone for your order. Make sure you are ready with your order by the phone otherwise you will be guessing and that’s how we start

having problems. Your order will be with you either 24 or 48 hours later, yes breweries have been known to be helpful and send you a emergency order but that will only be if they are very quiet, which isn’t very often as they have cut there dray facilities, ( dray is the delivery vehicle, draymen are the nice people who deliver your goods ). So to be on the safe side we really need to have a stock holding of about fourteen days, but have to remember that with traditional ales we do not really need more than ten days stock on hand. Yes difficult isn’t it?. Most draught beers come in a variety of containers, so it is not only imperative to get the total order right, we have also got to think about the sale of our goods bearing in mind that cask conditioned ales should only be on sale for two days, and at the very most no more than three days. Although keg beers will last a little bit longer their quality will be impaired so try to stick to the golden rule remember people will come to your house for the quality of your products first

and foremost. So lets learn how to get it right from the start then we will always have the perfect pint.

We accept that in the ideal world cask beers should be sold within a 24 hour period and keg beers in 48 hours, while it is very nice to have a full range of beers you have to bear in mind the salability of the products if we have products that we cannot sell we lose money (we loose to - much we go out of business )

Container Sizes Because of European legislation the days of the big barrel are now history. The largest barrel now in general use is 22 galls.

Keg Beers 11 galls 88pints 22 Galls 176pints

the above two coincide with the metric measures our European partners want to impose on us 50 litres and 100 litres respectively Cask Beer 18 galls 144pints Kilderkin (Kil or Kiln) 9 galls 72pints Firkin Remember "off sale within two days or beer off" the choice is yours

Receiving the Delivery

When your dray arrives it is not simply a case of open the flaps and leave them to we have to be ready for them.

Preparation existing stock has to be moved around taking into account stock rotation and must in positions that will not allow for any bumping or accidental damage.

All empty barrels must be moved out of the way remembering that the draymen will have to unload first so make sure the can get the new stock into position

before having to remove returns or empties Ensure that all crates are filled with empties and neatly staked draymen are very experienced and can handle more than one case at a time.

Make sure you are there yourself and never refuse delivery (because you only just got up) there is always the possibility of the dray arriving early, especially in city centers as they want to beat the rush hour traffic. If you cannot be there yourself make sure you have a responsible person covering for you. Remember your cellar is normally underground and with your flaps open this will leave a big hole, and you know how nosey people can be especially children so cordon your area off you don’t want anyone falling down. Have your order book ready so the delivery can be checked off ask for the delivery note so you can check the correct address (yes it’s happened wrong delivery) it’s harder to get out than put in. Count the deliveries carefully and try to isolate them from your existing stock check the gyle number also check for any sign of damage or leaks. If a container is leaking refuse to accept it this will

save you going through the rigmarole of technical services. Many none returnable bottles come in cardboard boxes, and can easily have a few broken bottles. Check cases are full and no sign of any damage. Count the uplifted empties and any ullage that you may have (subject to uplift note) Check over your delivery before signing, make sure the date is correct, you should have checked the address already, all returns have been entered and any breakage’s have

been recorded. If you have a problem that the draymen cannot rectify to your satisfaction telephone the depot straight away with the draymen present.

Hygiene in Your Cellar

Lets not forget that with traditional ale we have a product that is still living and

can very quickly become contaminated so we have got to put cellar hygiene to the fore, hence we follow delivery with keeping our cellar up to perfection. Why is it the best time?.

Because your cellar is going to be at it’s emptiest when you have sold most of your stock therefore it makes sense to give your cellar its major clean the day

before delivery or very early in the morning of delivery. But let us not forget the health and safety side of things we don’t want the draymen walking on wet floors.

Some will tell you that your cellar floor should be cleaned daily fine if you have got the time what is important is that any beer spillage must be cleaned up at once. to avoid bacterial infection. You must ensure that your cellar floor is thoroughly cleaned at very frequent intervals. This should be done by scrubbing down with a solution of beer line cleaner mixed to manufacturers recommended proportions, it should then be hosed down and all surplus water got rid of leaving the floor as dry as possible. Check your sump drains and gulleys so that water does not become stagnent keep covers in place at all times. Repairs to the floor should be done straight away to prevent bacteria breeding. Wall should also be cleaned down as often as possible. A good coating of anti bacterial paint should be a periodical chore. Don’t forget the ceiling, the pressure in a cask of beer can spray all over the place so leave nothing to chance your cellar has to be spotless for you to have a pint that can be enjoyed every time a person visits your pub.

It goes without saying that all beer raising equipment must be kept spotlessly clean both inside and outside (we will deal with pipe cleaning later).

Where possible it is best to keep your beer cellar away from all the rest of stock, if you are very lucky you will have an area partitioned off just big enough to take your full stock level this will help to maintain the correct cellar temperature. All refrigeration units should be kept separate and outside of your beer cellar

where possible not only for the heat that these pieces of equipment give of there is also the chance that mould and slime may build up, this can be very true in the case of the cellar cooling equipment, inline cooling equipment and ice makers

Pipe cleaning

Pipe cleaning is one of the most important jobs you have to do in your very busy schedule and has to be done, no matter how long a time you spend on

conditioning your beer you will not be able to present the perfect pint if you don’t keep your pipes up to standard. Failure to carry out this normal function will result in the following problems

• Cloudy beer

• Build up of yeast in the lines, causing bits in the beer • Restricted flow creating fobbing • Bad tasting and bad smelling beer

It is essential that all beer lines are cleaned every seven days for keg beers and every change over for cask beers if possible, some publicans will flush the lines

with water only during a cask

change in mid service. This will normally ensure any stray hops are removed from the beer line that may lead to cloudy or un-clear beer, you should always check and clean the hop filter when changing a cask or have a fresh clean one

ready in cellar. The hop filter fits in between the cask tap and the traditional beer line it’s self and looks like a small tom bola hat providing a good seal and also acting as a filter.

Flushing a Cask line with water A cellar bucket is a useful tool when handling cask beers as you can use the bucket to flush lines with water during cask changes rather than connecting to the ring main cleaning system. Some cellars still use the old bucket system for the entire cleaning process. As mentioned above remember to ensure the filter is clean and free from hops or any sediments. Within a cask the beer settles in layers and this can effect the taste of the beer depending on how much beer is remaining. Cask conditioned beer finishes off it’s fermenting process in the publicans cellar and a hand full of hops are normally added to the cask when the container is filled at the brewery thus cask beer is a lively and fermenting

product and requires regular pipe cleaning as yeast build up on the inside of the pipes will occur. If yeast build up is left unattended layers will form inside pipes and this may lead to your beer smelling like old socks it can also lead to giving

your customers a bad stomach or a bad case of the trots.

KEEP YOUR PIPES CLEAN

Cleaning a ring main system The ring main system can be found in most modern cellars and is used to clean both Keg Beers and Cask Conditioned beers the simple diagrammed below shows how a basic system will work. The beer is dispensed using pressurised gas such as C02 or a mixed gas, the cleaning process is the same apart from the beer is replaced using water and a cleaning fluid. The heads from beer kegs are detached from the keg beer and connected to the cleaning ring main. The same can be done with the cask conditioned beer pipes these are normally a different style of fitting to the keg type (please note there are several types of coupling heads used by breweries) Once all the coupling heads are connected to the

cleaning ring main the individual gas lines to each keg or cask are then discontented from the snap-in connectors and the cleaning bosh is filled with water and a mix of cleaning fluid as per the instructions by the cleaning fluid manufacture (always follow the instructions).

Remember most cleaning fluid is corrosive! so you should always wear protective clothing such as an apron, eye protection and gloves. It’s a good idea not to clean beer lines in your best cloths an old pair of jeans and a T shirt will do as cleaning fluid rots clothing very quickly. Cleaning fluid is a hazardous substance and should be stored according to C.O.S.H.H. conditions. Once the cleaning fluid has been mixed with water to the correct measure pull off the waste beer in your pipes until it has been replaced by the cleaning solution (this waste beer should be recorded as ullage or waste) Remember H M Customs & Excise will want to collect V.A.T. from you on all beer sales so you need to keep a record of all waste including line cleaning. Most beer lines contain approximately 1 to 2 Pints of beer from the dispense head to the cellar. If you have 14 dispense heads then this could be a lot of wastage, remember to

record it. If you cant prove it, you will end up paying the duty on it.

Cleaning Keg Beer Lines 1. Ensure all protective clothing is on hand. 2. Make up sufficient quantity of cleaning solution to do all the keg beer lines.

Always follow manufacturers instructions as cleaning products will vary. 3. Disconnect individual gas lines from the snap-in couplers. 4. Disconnect the individual keg couplings from the kegs, and in cases where

there is a cleaning ring main installed in the cellar, connect them to their respective fittings on the ring main. Then connect the ring main to the cleaning bottle. In instances where there is no ring main connect one of the lines directly on to the cleaning bottle.

5. Draw off the beer in the lines until it has been replaced by the cleaning solution and pour away.

6. Allow cleaning solution to remain in the lines for the recommended period

of time normally 30-40 minutes. 7. During the period the lines are in soak, make up a further small amount of

cleaning solution in a bucket, and using a stiff brush such as a nylon pot brush, disconnect the individual couplings and clean thoroughly. Wash off the cleaning solution using plenty of clean water. Reconnect to the ring

main when finished. 8. After the recommended period of time has elapsed, draw off the remaining

cleaning fluid until it is replaced by gas. The passing of gas through the lines after cleaning fluid helps to dislodge obstinate yeast particles. Then flush the lines with clean water. As with cask beer lines, check for particle of yeast and taste for palate, ensuring all traces of yeast and cleaning fluid have been flushed out.

9. Once satisfied that the lines are clean, reconnect the lines to the individual kegs, ensuring correct line to correct keg, and reconnect the individual gas lines.

10. Draw off the clean water in the lines until it is replaced by beer. Sample the beers individually to ensure that all are palatable before selling.

Cleaning Cask Beer Lines Cask beers in most cellars are dispensed by hand pull beer engines 1. Ensure all protective clothing is on hand. 2. Make up sufficient quantity of cleaning solution to do all the cask beer lines.

Always follow manufacturers instructions as all cleaning products will vary. 3. Turn off beer taps on casks to be cleaned, avoid disturbing the cask. 4. Disconnect any assistance device and disconnect each cask coupling. 5. Remove all cask filters (bola hats) and clean 6. Place all cask pipe lines in to cellar bucket full of clean water (most

publicans will use a hose pipe to ensure the water supply does not run out) 7. Pull water through to your bar dispense system to flush lines 8. Remember to record the beer wastage from each line in your ullage book. 9. Next pull through your cleaning solution 10. Allow cleaning solution to remain in the lines for the recommended period

of time normally 30-40 minutes. 11. During the period the lines are in soak, make up a further small amount of

cleaning solution in a bucket, and using a stiff brush such as a nylon pot brush, disconnect the individual couplings and clean thoroughly. Wash off the cleaning solution using plenty of clean water.

12. After the recommended period of time has elapsed, draw off the remaining cleaning fluid.

13. Then pull through clean water until the water clears all solution from the lines (this could be between 4 - 8 gallons) The passing of clean water through the lines after cleaning fluid helps to dislodge obstinate yeast

particles. As with keg beer lines, check for particle of yeast and taste for palate, ensuring all traces of yeast and cleaning fluid have been flushed

out. 14. Reconnect beer lines to casks remembering to replace hop filters to beer

tap couplings.

15. Pull through beer and check for quality and clarity. (you may have to ease vent pegs at this stage to ease any disturbance from excessive suction). Pull beer through system slowly to avoid disturbing the cask

16. Follow these rules and you should end up with the perfect pint.

Additional information on cask beers If you run a small pub and sell traditional ales it is advisable to stock 9’s (9 gallon firkins) as they only hold 72 pints real ale can normally only be on sale and remain in good condition for about 72 hours once opened/prepared for sale. Maximum shelf life of cask beer is 25 days from rack date.

Cleaning Pre mix and Post mix Lines Some public houses have post mix systems installed within the premises. It was always advisable to check with your area manager or the dispense system

provider on the cleaning of these systems, as some companies will offer a regular cleaning service. In most cases the cleaning of the post mix system will be down to the licensee. Most managed / tenanted leased houses will have a cellar management / Technical support team who will advise you on the suitable cleaning methods for your house.

Conditioning of Cask Beers in Cellar

Venting Immediately after delivery ALL cask beers must be placed on stillage in the

cooled cellar. Then leave to cool to cellar temperature which should ideally be in the range of 54° – 58° (12°C – 14C°g. In general terms this equates to one hour per gallon i.e. 18 gallons will take approx 18 hours to cool. To ensure perfect cask beer, venting must commence within 24 hours of delivery. Venting is done through the opening on the waist of the cask, which is filled with a wooden bung called a SHIVE. The center of the shive has a small plastic plug called a TUT, in it. Before venting ensure that the area around the tut is clean, any bacteria growth which may be on or around it is liable to be transferred into the beer when the tut is knocked in, which could contaminate the beer and turn the beer sour. Before venting ensure that you have the following items to hand, and that they

are clean. 1 . Rubber mallet 2 . Hard spile (nylon) 3 . Soft spile (must be new –unused, never use more than once).

Cask Stillage

To stillage cask beers, ‘up-end’ in front of stillage with keystone uppermost, and shive facing towards your right leg, Tilt cask towards stillage until the rolling ring of cask rests on the stillage. then,

in one movement, lift the cask from the base and top and swing cask base to the right until the keystone is facing towards you. Secure cask with wooden chocks either side, front and rear, ensure cask is LEVEL AND NOT TILTED at this stage.

Cask Floor Stillaging and Tilting Procedure

Stillage Casks on Cellar Floor

Fig,1 Set cask level position on floor. Fig,2 press down on the front chime of the cask and place wooden back block under cask behind back rolling ring. Fig,3 Using wooden blocks as fulcrum raise front of the cask to point of balance. Fig,4 Place the metal scotch fixed to wooden block under the front end of the cask in front of the first rolling rings. Fig,5 Lower cask on to a metal scotch and using both ends shake or settle Cask until scotch is against the front rolling rings. The

cask may be tapped in this position. Fig,6 Tilt cask when not less than 1 /3 empty.

Filter Pan Procedures

Company policy lays down two instances only whereby beer may be filtered back. 1. First pull off from a new cask on dispense 2. Any beer spilt as a result of changing a broken keystone, or replacing a broken cask tap.

BEER MAY ONLY BE FILTERED BACK TO THE CASK FROM WHICH IT WAS FILTERED

Non compliance of this instruction is a Contravention of:

A. The Trade Descriptions Act, B. A Customs & Excise ruling.

Method Before any attempt is made to filter, it is vital to ensure that all equipment is perfectly clean, and that the stem screw is tightly in place at the bottom of the filter stem.

Ensure also that the cask into which the beer is to be filtered is NOT LESS THAN

2/3 rd’s FULL AND HAS NOT BEEN ON DISPENSE FOR LONGER THAN TWO DAYS. Any attempt to filter back beer into a cask

that has been on dispense longer than two days could result in cloudy beer or a

harsh palate.

1. Before any attempt is made to filter beer back, it must be sampled for palate. This can only be satisfactory, if filtering procedures are carried out without delay.

2. Clean the area around the shive and remove the spile.

3. Place the filter stand on the cask to receive the beer.

4. Take a new clean filter paper and place it on the filter mesh, locking it in place with

the filter cover plate, in the filter pan.

5. Check again that the screw in the filter stem is tightly in place at the bottom of the

filter stem before screwing into place on the filter pan.

6. Place the filter pan on the stand, gently guiding the filter stem through the shive hole.

7. Gently pour the beer into the filter pan, taking care not to overflow the pan.

8. On completion of the filtering, remove the dirty filter paper from the pan and destroy. Do not leave dirty filter papers in the cellar as they will contaminate the

remaining beers in the cellar.

9. Replace the spile in the cask.

10. Thoroughly clean all components of the filtering equipment, including the stem, which should be brushed through using the stem brush provided, taking care not to

lose the stem screw.

11. Store filter pan and papers in a clean dry area.

REMEMBER THAT ANY BEER TO BE PUT BACK MUST BE FILTERED BACK WITHIN ONE HOUR OF IT BEING DRAWN OFF.

Venting Venting is done by knocking the tut in by using the Hard Spile and replacing immediately with a soft spile. The soft spile, usually made of cane, allows the controlled escape of CO2, which is created by the further fermentation of the beer. This fermentation deposits solids on the base of the soft spile, thus effectively sealing the cask, therefore it is essential That the soft spiles be replaced 3 times a day until the beer has stopped working. It is easy to tell when this stage has been reached, for the beer will cease to effervesce through the soft spile, which should then be replaced with a hard spile. Both the soft and hard spiles should be placed in the shive “finger tight”, and under no circumstances should they be “knocked in” with the mallet . The sealing of the cask with a hard spile will hold the remainder of the CO2 in the

cask and isolate the beer from the atmosphere and keep the beer in condition. The hard spile must be gently eased every 24 hours, to allow the controlled escape of any excess CO2.

If too much pressure is allowed to build up in the cask, the sudden release of the gas will disturb the whole of the cask contents.

If a soft spile is used continuously, to excess, even though the beer has ceased working, all the natural CO2 gas generated during conditioning will escape into the atmosphere, with the result that the beer Flat Tasteless It is essential to use the spile that the beer demands.

Tapping

Before tapping a cask one must first make sure that the beer is quiet, in other words not working. The Hard spile should be eased to release any excess CO2, and replaced with a soft spile, which should be put in the finger tight. As with the shive it is important to ensure that the tap plug known as the KEYSTONE is clean and free from any bacterial growth.

The first step is to place a container under the keystone to catch any beer that might spill from running over the floor. Then using a clean tap that has been partly opened to prevent a vacuum forming in the barrel of the tap, carefully but firmly knock the tap into the keystone, using either a rubber or wooden mallet. Under no circumstances should a metal hammer, or any metal object be used, as this will damage the threads of the tap.

Immediately after this has been done, close the tap and draw off a sample of beer and check for taste, aroma and brightness. Having satisfied yourself as to the condition of the beer the soft spile should now be removed and replaced with a hard spile, which will hold the beer in condition until

such time as it is required to be put on dispense.

NB . Tapping must be carried out at least 24 hours before going on dispense in order to allow any disturbance caused by tapping to settle.

Replacing Broken Keystones

In the event of the Keystone either splitting or Breaking completely, with the resultant loss of beer, The following procedures must be adopted. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE CASK BE UPENDED THUS NECESSITATING THE NEED FOR THE BEER TO SETTLE YET AGAIN.

Before attempting to change the keystone ensure that You have the following

items to hand.

1. New Keystone 2. Rubber mallet 3 . Screwdriver.

Firstly place a small container under the leaking keystone to catch the beer and to prevent it running over the floor.

Remove the soft spile, and replace it very firmly with a hard spile. This will effectively create a vacuum in the cask. Gently, using the tap, ease the broken keystone out. If this proves difficult remove the tap completely and with the screwdriver prise the keystone out and replace with the new keystone. Before re-tapping, remove the hard spile and replace with a soft spile. This is to ensure that the pressure created when the tap is knocked in does not disturb the sediment. The beer that has been caught in the container can Be filtered back- see filtering.

Putting Cask Beer on Sale

When the time comes for a cask to be put on Dispense - the following procedures should be Adopted.

1. Remove the line from the empty cask and place in water and pull off any

sediment that might be in the line from the previous cask.

2. Replace hard spile with soft spile on the new cask.

3. Check the quality of the beer by sampling a small Quantity in a glass prior to connecting the line which now contains water to the new cask.

4. Gently open the tap, this should be done slowly.

5. Pull off the water, to ensure that the first pint of the new is not spoilt by the sediments from the old beer.

Closing Time Duties

In order to maintain the conditions of the cask beer, it is vital that the soft spile is replaced at the end of each day/trading period with a hard spile. NEVER leave a cask without a spile in it. Once the soft spile has been replaced, the cask tap is turned off. This prevents the beer in the line from running back down the line into the cask, thereby causing a disturbance in the sediment and clouding the beer.

Tilting

When casks are first received, they MUST be stillaged, conditioned and tapped in the horizontal position. Never tilt a cask before it has been allowed to condition. In a tilted cask the level of the beer would be above the tut and when the cask is vented beer would be lost through spillage. Casks must be tilted to enable maximum dispense of the available beer. This must be done when the cask is not less than 1/3 full. The procedure is completed by gently lifting the cask and placing a wedge at the rear.

Wherever possible tilting should be done at the end of a trading period, thereby allowing maximum time for what little disturbance has been caused, to settle before the beer is dispensed again.

Advanced Cellar systems Most modern cellars are fitted with self cleaning systems and advanced cellar

technology gadgets. This diagram shows ring main cleaning sockets for both keg and cask beers, anti fob detectors, waste return lines and automatic line cleaning system.

Cellar Equipment Below some items you may come across in a modern cellar

Health & safety in your cellar

Co2 & mixed gas in Cellars Most modern cellars use a verity of CO2 and mixed gases to help aid the dispensing of beers. The standard gases used in most cellars are normally as listed below.

• CO2 100%

• CO2 60% nitrogen 40%

• CO2 70% nitrogen 30% Both the gas and the cylinders can be lethal if not treated with respect, but handled with due care and attention they are both relatively harmless. The CO2 gas is sorted in the cylinder at the pressure of 700-750 p.s.i. at a normal cellar temperature, in liquid form. The cylinder is tested to withstand 2100 p.s.i. so the likelihood of a cylinder bursting is low if treated with care. The CO2 gas on the

other hand can be lethal. It is odorless, colorless and heavier than air. Any gas which may escape will settle from the floor up. it is one of the gases in which nothing can live, exposure to this fumes would cause death.

If it is ever suspected that there has been a major leakage of gas in the cellar,

you should under go the following procedure. A) immediately open all the doors and cellar flaps to create a through draught

and if possible use electric fans. B) Spray water on to the floor. As the gas is heavier than air it will be

absorbed by the water and flushed out through any drainage. C) you must report this matter to technical services department immediately. In the event of there being a minor leakage of gas, this will be noticed by either the cylinder frosting up or signs of moisture at the base of the cylinder/ or the regulator. If the cylinder is frosted up under no circumstances must any attempt be made to touch the cylinder with bare hands. If so this would result in severe burns. You must use thick gloves or wait for the technician. All leaks in the system must be reported to technical services department. NEVER tamper with cylinder valves, remember that the gas is being held under

a pressure of 700 p.s.i.

NEVER use a cylinder without a primary reducing valve/ regulator. REMEMBER TO TURN OFF THE GAS AT THE BOTTLE AFTER EVERY TRADING PERIOD D) CO2 bottles must be secured in a upright position when in use, and either

laid down and placed in racks for storage. ( this also includes empty cylinders that are being stored ). If laid down they must be secured by the use of wedges.

Frozen Kegs When kegs have frozen due to an extreme drop in temperature these must be stored separate to all other stock. They should be gently laid on there sides with

the spear facing a wall or turned upside down as a precaution against the spear being ejected as the keg defrosts. Also notify technical services department immediately.

Electrics

These must always be correctly installed, and should include an earth leakage circuit breaker. Under no circumstances must multi socket adaptors be used. These represent a fire hazard.

Pipe cleaning fluid

Always follow manufactures directions regarding dilution. Always add concentrate to water, never the reverse, failure to do so could result in severe burns.

Floors Always keep floors clean and dry. Clean up any spilt beer to avoid slipping. Remove rubbish such as empty cardboard boxes, plastic wrapping materials and especially any broken glass.

General Pay attention to the stacking of crates, both full and empty, empty casks and kegs, and the storage of broken bottles. Guard against damage or missing drain and sump covers. Ensure there are warning signs in the case of low beams. Where possible these should be padded.

Ensure areas are well lit, increase wattage of the bulb if necessary. Keep the cellar clean and dry and free from any obstructions and do not store empty crates/cartons, mops, buckets and brooms on or around the cellar stair. Ensure that the hand rails are securely fixed to the wall.

KEEP YOUR CELLAR CLEAN & SAFE

Wine Storage and Knowledge

Good storage of wine is essential as you are dealing with a commodity that can deteriorate very quickly even in the bottle. The shortest and simple definition of wine is that it is a alcoholic drink produced by the fermentation of freshly gathered grapes the juices of the grape are poured of into vats that are normally open topped allowing the carbon dioxide to

escape from the fermenting must. The grape contains most of its own fermenting agents thus is able to ferment as

a natural process once the grape is crushed.

Wild Yeast Wine Yeast Sugars liquid Some wines improve with correct storage while others will have a varied shelf life with many being recommended to be drunk within twelve months of purchase these are the cheaper commercial wine that are expertly blended to give us a quality wine at a reasonable price Wine should be stored so that the neck of the bottle is below the center of the

base with the wine actually touching the cork keeping it moist and preventing corking Bottles should not be able to move and any vibration could affect the clarity of the wine. All wines especially vintage wines that mature in the bottle will need to be stored in the dark in a draught free room, even white wine can become discolored by being exposed to light. Temperatures should be as follows white wine 9º c (48º f) Red wine 10º c (50º f)

fortified wines 14º c (58º f)

Champagne

Champagne is produced in the champagne region some 90 miles north of Paris to a method unique to the region by using a secondary fermentation. Other sparkling wines producers are not permitted to use the term champagne it is usually made from a blend of grapes both black and white when all white grapes are used it is known as blanc de blancs

Fortified wines

These wine are produced in the same way as other wines then alcohol is added to strengthen the content. The most famous ones are sherry and port. Courses for wine appreciation and service are available to certification standard please contact us for details

Glassware and Knowledge

A good cellar man should also have an understanding of the correct type of glassware to be used with each product. There are various types of glassware

available to the industry and you should ensure that the front of house staff are serving drinks in the appropriate glassware for presentation of your product. The sight of a good looking beer served to a customer in the correct glass is a great reward for all the hard work you have put into managing your cellar.

A selection of beer glasses

A selection of mixed glassware

What drinks should be served in what glass ?

Notes

Notes Licensed Trade Training Academy Ltd

Cleaning Bosh Kegs Cask

Standard keg coupling

Gas pressure valves for CO2 cylinders & mixed gases

Different types of fob detectors Stein Dimple Tulip Nonic Sleeve Tulip Bordeaux Flute Cocktail Brandy Balloon Hi-ball Paris

Goblet Serving drinks from a bottle The glass you are about to dispense in should be discreetly checked before to ensure it is clean from any water marks or lipstick etc. Both the glass and the product should be raised together with the label presented to the customer. The glass should be angled and the beverage should be poured into the glass ensuring that the bottle neck does not touch the rim of the customers glass. Gradually straighten the glass from the outset angle of 45 degrees and present to the customer, once poured, with the label facing the customer. Remember a glass is a customers drinking vessel so keep your hands and fingers well away from the rim. Golden rule - The top 2 thirds of the glass belong to the customer. The bottom third belongs to the barperson. Also remember, NEVER pass a drink to a customer using the rim of the glass.