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BURN -OUT

PRINTING

Md.Azmeri Latif BegM.Sc in Textile Engineering

Daffodil International University

Cotton and other cellulosic fibers are destroyed by strong mineral acids or their acid salts. This procedure is sometimes referred to as “Burn Out”. A cotton / polyester blended fabric can be printed with a print paste containing the burn out chemicals, and after fixation, the cotton portion is destroyed and only the polyester remains. This allows a patterned lacey design to be imparted to the fabric. It also is possible to incorporate a disperse dye in the burn out paste and dye the polyester during the burn out phase. This process is very corrosive and requires special screens and special care in handling.

In the apparel industry, besides the artwork to be printed, the most importantthing is the printing technique. There are several printing techniques, and eachof them is suitable for a certain business strategy. Printing can also be definedas localized dyeing. Defined as the application of dye or pigment in a differentpattern on the fabric and by subsequent after treatment of fixing the dye orpigment to get a particular design. Being a designer you may have multipleoptions to decide which printing techniques is most suitable for a specificdesign on the garment. Experienced designers choose printing methodprimarily on the basis final outcome as design sharpness, durability, brightness,texture and hand feel. Sometimes a printed fabric can be identified by lookingat the back side of fabric where there is no design or color as face side.Nowadays print is a very important thing for this textile sector. Print makesclothes attractive. We can’t imagine a dress or clothes without print. Printingsector is also expanding and changing every day with the fashion trend. We arediscovering new technique and qualities of print day by day. Print technology isgrowing up with the Clothes industry. 99% fashion clothes are now must haveany print on it.

Printing

Cotton and other cellulosic fibers are destroyed by strong mineral acids or their acid salts. This procedure is sometimes referred to as “Burn Out”. A cotton / polyester blended fabric can be printed with a print paste containing the burn out chemicals, and after fixation, the cotton portion is destroyed and only the polyester remains. This allows a patterned lacey design to be imparted to the fabric. It also is possible to incorporate a disperse dye in the burn out paste and dye the polyester during the burn out phase. This process is very corrosive and requires special screens and special care in handling. Table below contains the “Burn Out” print paste formula.Burn-out textiles is a technique used to develop raised designs on fabric surface. This is primarily being done in fabrics with at least 2 different fibrecontent i.e. Cotton-Polyester, Silk-Rayon etc. Here one fibre component is being dissolved thru chemical reactions while the other content remains intact giving away raised illusion designs.The printing factory makes this print with the flat bed printing machine. The printing way of this print is same as a normal flat bed print, just printer’s use acid type chemical instead of color.

BURNOUT PRINTING

We can do this print only some selected fabric. This print is not possible on 100% cotton fabric. The best composition for this burn out print is 60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric. This print is also possible on 60% cotton and 40% polyester.The main technique of burnout print is destroys the cotton portion of the fabric with Acid / Chemical. When the chemical flows over the fabric and contact with cotton portion, then it burn out the cotton by chemical reaction. Actually cotton is the victim here.

BURNOUT PRINTING

Burn Out Print Paste

Formula Chemical

Amount, g/kg Details

Thickener 48 Guar gum

Ethanol 50

Emulsifying agent 20

Humectant 100 Glycerin

Anionic Wetter 20

Aluminum Sulfate 85 Creates mineral acid

Water Bulk Water to total volume

Total 1000

1. PC or CVC fabric.2. Paste + Any acid liverating salt (like Nacl,Na2 so4)3. Steaming4. Washing (Roubasting wash)5. Burnout print completeOnly print technicians will understand the above 5 pointsStep by Step Printing Process of Burn out Print:1st Step: Develop the print design and screen with the buyer provided artwork.2nd Step: Knit the fabric with the yarn of following compositiona) 60% polyester 40% cotton ORb) 40% polyester 60% cotton Or similar like that.3rd Step: After complete the kitting of fabric send the gray or scouring fabric to printing factory.4th Step: Perform the print on this fabric. Here, the cotton part will be destroyed by the acid but polyester portion willbe remain same.5th Step: Then we will dye and finished the fabric as per our require color

BURNOUT PRINTING

In the image of the print we will clearly see the Polyester and cotton part.

BURNOUT PRINTING

Cotton Portion had blue where as polyester is having no color. So, during burn out cotton burnsdown leaving only polyester portion resultantly only white shade on burnt region and awonderful pattern appears.

The technology uses cotton/polyester blended fabric where cotton portion from the blendedfabric is burned leaving behind the polyester portion only, according to the desired designs bymeans of rotary printing machine and thus providing the fabric a textured look.

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1ST TYPE: Printing with a chemical substance -

destroys the fibre in the design area, resulting a

designed hole in the fabric

2ND TYPE: Involves blended fabrics – ONE FIBRE IS

BURNT OUT, and ANOTHER FIBRE IS LEFT

UNDAMAGED when treated with chemicals

EX: A rayon/polyester blend. When the burn-out

printing is done, RAYON PORTION

DISAPPEARS(burn-out) leaving the polyester

unchanged. The result is a gauze-like print portion of

the fabric

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For velvet made of viscose & silk

Using sodium hydrogen sulphate

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Some information about burnt-out print1) Other names - Devour process, Corrosion process, transparency

process, carbonization printing

2) Flat bed Other names - Devour process, Corrosion process,

transparency process, carbonization printing

3) Flat bed screen printing

4) Acids instead of colours

5) Normally the cost of burnout print without profit is $4.5 to $5.0/kg

6) Can be done only on some selected fabrics ( cellulose & synthetic

blend or cellulose & cotton blend)

7) best composition- 60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric or vice versa

8) ommon chemical use - Sulphuric acid, mixed into a colourless print paste

9.Mostly done on velvet fabrics screen printing

10.Acids instead of colours

11.Normally the cost of burnout print without profit is $4.5 to

$5.0/kg

12.Can be done only on some selected fabrics ( cellulose & synthetic

blend or cellulose & cotton blend)

13.best composition- 60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric or vice

versa

14.Common chemical use - Sulphuric acid, mixed into a colourless

print paste

15.Mostly done on velvet fabrics

Step by step printing process of burn out print

1st Step: Develop the print design and screen with the buyer provided artwork.

2nd Step: Knit the fabric with the yarn of following composition

a) 60% polyester 40% cotton ORb) b) 40% polyester 60% cotton Or similar like that.

3rd Step: After complete the kitting of fabric send the gray or scouring fabric to printing factory.

4th Step: Perform the print on this fabric. Here, the cotton part will be destroyed by the acid butpolyester portion will be remaining same.

5th Step: Then we will dye and finished the fabric as per our require color.

Synthrapol

Sodium bisulfate

Guar gum

PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash

Glycerin & Water

Chemicals other than Sodium Bisulfate were also tested for this experiment. e.g.

1.Sulfuric acid Full Black Effect (No Burning)

2.Sodium Hydrosulfite (No Burning)

3.Sodium Bisulfite (No Burning)

Chemicals of Burn out Printing

1. Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140oF (60oC) water, or by hand in a pot

on the stove with (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator and (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of

fabric (454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards cotton muslin, or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium

T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse thoroughly. This step does not add the dye fixative to

the fabric; it prepares the fabric for dyeing by removing any dirt, oil or sizing.

2. Mix the thickener paste a few hours, or even the day before use it. In a large plastic or

stainless steel bowl, measure 2 cups (500 ml) of room temperature 75o to 95oF (24o to

35oC) water. In a separate dry container measure a 1/3 cup (50 gm) of guar gum. Using

a blender or hand mixer, starts blending just the water, then gradually add the guar gum.

Continue blending until well mixed. Allow to stand several hours or overnight for a

smooth paste.

Procedure

Equipment Blender or hand mixer

3. Make the burn-out paste just before you are ready to use it. Measure cup plus 2 Tbl (220

ml) of 100oF (38oC) water and dissolve cup (200 gm) of sodium bisulfate in the water.

Remember to always add the acid to the water, as a safety precaution. Once the sodium

bisulfate is dissolved, add a cup (80 ml) of glycerin and the thickener paste made in step

2. Mix thoroughly using your blender or hand mixer. Discard the burn out paste after

three days.

4. Prepare a padded surface to print on. If we do not have a padded print table, we can

create a padded surface by laying down a terry cloth towel on your work table and taping

it in place with masking tape. Cover the terry cloth towel with plastic or a canvas drop

cloth. Then secure your fabric with masking tape on the plastic, or with T-pins on the

canvas drop cloth.

5. Apply the burn-out paste to the fabric. Screen print, stencil, or apply the burn-out paste

freehand, with foam or bristle brush. Make sure the burn-out paste penetrates through to

the back of the fabric. The best paste penetration is achieved by screen printing, followed

by stenciling, and then freehand applications. When working on silk/rayon velvet, it is

best to print on the back side of the fabric rather than the pile. It is important to sample

your method of application before working on large projects, to make sure the fabric will

burn-out successfully.

6. Allow the fabric to air dry thoroughly. We can also speed up the drying by using a hairdryer.

7. Carefully remove the burned out (carbonized) areas of your fabric by one of themethods listed below. This part can be messy, so work outside if possible and alwayswear a cartridge respirator to avoid inhaling the small fibers.

Gently hands wash the fabric. Gently brush off the burned out fiber by hand. Use a small hand held vacuum.

8. Wash thoroughly with warm 110oF (44oC) water by hand or machine wash on gentlecycle with tsp (2.5ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of fabric. Rinse thoroughly andhang to dry.

NOTE :* Curing time and temperature are needed to be pre tested (Lab Trial), some time while using light blends, Polyester portion also get damaged. So, consequently no good print. One can choose one of these temperatures and times

1. 160C @ 5Min2. 180C @ 2Min3. 200C @ 1Min

1. Burnout print is not possible on 100% cotton fabric. Clothes should

be PC or CVC

2. 60% polyester 40% cotton is the best composition for Burnout print.

3. Process loss is very high. More than 35%

4. Single jersey construction is the best construction for Burnout print.

5. If you need the finished fabric with 120 to 130 GSM then you should

knit the fabric with 160 to 170 GSM.

6. Burnout print is not only expensive but also lucrative with nice

feelings.

Some important points regarding the Burnout print

Burnout on Garment

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1st printing is done with acid – it destroys a fibre and produce designed holes – then over printed with embroidery stitch

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procedure

Chemical requirements:

1. Sodium bisulphate

2. Synthrapol

3. Guar gum (thickener)

4. Soda Ash

5. Glycerine

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Equipments needed

1. Scouring m/c

2. Blender

3. Printing table

4. Printing source

5. iron

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1. Scour the fabric using soda ash and synthrapol in hot water

at about 60⁰ to remove oil, dirt and sizing

2. Rinse thoroughly

3. Prepare thickener paste – take water in a blender and

gradually add the guar gum. Continue blending till it is

smooth

4. Next add sodium bisulphate to water for burn-out paste

5. When acid is dissolved, add to it the glycerine(hygroscopic)

and the above prepared thickener paste and blend well

6. Prepare the padded printing surface

7. Apply the burn out paste by any form of printing source –

screen or stencil or freehand with foam or bristle brush

Steps to be followed

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1.Allow the fabric to dry through air2.When dried, it is taken to the ironing

table, place a cloth over it 3.Iron the fabric for about 3 – 5 minutes or

until the fabric becomes medium brown.4.Carefully remove the burnt out areas by

hand wash or brushing off or small vacuum

5.Wash with warm water (by hand or m/c) by adding synthrapol detergent

6.Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry

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Precautions & instructions

1. Mix the thickener paste a few hours, or even the day before you need to use

2. Make the burn-out paste just before you are ready to use it.

3. The best paste penetration is achieved by screen printing, followed by stencilling, and then freehand applications

4. When working on silk/rayon velvet, it is best to print on the back side of the fabric rather than the pile

5. Don't overheat the burn-out areas to a black colour, otherwise you run the risk of permanently discolouring the fabric.

6. While working with sodium bisulphate it is important to wear a dust/mist respirator, rubber gloves, safety goggles, and an apron or old clothes. Avoid contact with skin or eyes

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disadvantagesCostlyWhen fixation temperature is varied slightly,

big colour variation occurs and residues can’tbe removed off easilyPrinting paste when used on next day will not

give a smooth finishing (excess=waste)Excess time / temperature may cause

yellowing in unprinted areasRisky acids – skin damage

Burnout is a great effect. By this printingwe get a vintage & Distant look. It isadorable and seems pretty. Syntheticthickeners are usually polysaccharidebased and normally used in disperseprinting of Polyester Fabrics. Thisthickener is readily available in market. Itis not something like special thickener.

Remarks

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THANK YOU FRIENDS !

AZMIR