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Pocket

hote

jig

Versatite

vise

Palm-sized

screwdriver

packs

a

punch

Back

pocket

square

Multiuse

tool that

reatty

works

Three

tools in one

Dual-use

wire

stripper

Single-squeeze

cautk

gun

Best

rolter

cleaner

ever

Stripped

screw remover

10-use

paint

tool

Big-grip

spring

ctamps

7t

72

73

74

90

93

94

97

54

58

61

62

66

80

82

87

Venetian

plaster

wa[[s

Space-saving

wa[[ niche

Mud-busting

boot

scraper

Regrout

a shower

Get a

weed-free

yard

Make

over a room

with

trim

Panel

a wa[[ in

one weekend

Transform

a

room

with

painted

rectangles

Quick

fix

for

dirty

dryer

vents

Repair

a

drippy

shower

Quiet

a noisy

fan

Garage

ceit'ing

storage

Super-si

mpte

box

shelves

Steppingstone path

Paint

your

kitchen

cabinets

Under-bed

ro[[-out

98

103

9

ways

to

save

etectricity

Save

150

with

CFLs

104

Cover

leaky

windows

106

110

115

Textured

walts in one

day

Cast

a concrete fountain

Ti[e

your

backsplash

Summer sanctuary

Insta[[

kitchen

cabinet

crown

molding

Install

open basket units

Bathroom

cabinet

Custom

closet

organizer

134

Elegant

and

easy bookcase

138

Attractive

barbecue

cart

747

Wallpaper

one

watl

118

122

728

133

t42

Cut

your

home

insurance

bi[[

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6

10

simple

cabinet

repairs

10

Super-simpte

DVD

hotder

77

Scum-proof your

shower

doors

Replace

a

broken

dryer

vent

cap

Speed-ctean

for

cheap

Fix

seams

in

watlpaper

Clean

chandetiers

quickty

Better

traction on

concrete

Stabitize

a wobbl y

bookcase

Repair

smatt

holes

in

walts

Quick

fix

for

a wobbly

table

leg

Patch

watls

with

aluminum

Balance

a

ceiting

fan

Reclaim

crusty

paint

Cautk

cracked

concrete

Ftoor-friendty

feet

for

furniture

Repair

otd

extensjon

cords

SPECIAL

SECTION:

1O-minute

plumbing

fixes

20

Unclog a

tub drain

without

chemica[s

27

Replace

a

[eaky

water

valve

22

Fast

fix for

a

slow-filting

washer

23

Qujet

ctanking

pipes

Fix

a

slow-running

faucet

24

Keep

your

washing

machine

fresh

A trick for

splicing

in

plastic

drainpipe

12

13

74

75

76

77

18

t9

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Glue

loose

knobs

Fill

stripped

screw

holes

When

cabinet

doors,

catches

or

drawer

slides

aren,t

working

right,

first

make

sure

the

screws

are tight.

If

a screw

turns

but

doesn't

tighten,

the screw

hole

is

stripped.

Here's

a

quick

remedy:

Remove

the

screw

and

hard-

ware.

Dip

toothpicks

in

glue,

jam

as

many

as you

can

into

the

hole

and

break them

off.

Either

flat

or round

toothpicks

will

work. If you

don't

have

tooth-

picks

handy,

shave splinters

off

a

wood

scrap

with

a

utility

knife.

Immediately

wipe

away

glue

drips

with

a damp

cloth.

You

don't

have

to wait

for

the glue

to

dry

or

drill

new

screw

holes;

just

go

ahead

and reinstall

the

hard-

ware

by

driving

screws

right

into

the toothpicks.

Any

handle

or

knob

that

comes

loose

once is

likely

to

come

loose

again.

Put

a

permanent

stop

to

this

problem

with

a tiny

drop

of

thread

adhesive

like Loctite

(about

$4

at home

cen-

ters).

Don'tworry;

if

you

want

to

replace your

hard-

ware

sometime

in

the future,

the knobs

will still

come off

with

a

screwdriver.

Touch

up nicks

and

scratches

il*irilHif:i :;:#' $

wipe

off

the excess

with

a

rag.

But

beware:

Scratches

can

absorb

lots

of

stain

and

turn

darker

than

the surrounding

finish.

So

start

with

a

marker

that's

lighter

than your

cabinet

finish

and

then

switch

to

a darker

shade

if

needed.

For

deeper

scratches,

use

a filler

pencil,

which

fills

and colors

the scratch.

If the

cabinet

finish

is

dingy

overall

and has lots

of

scratches,

consider

a wipe-on

product

like

Old

English

Scratch

Coat

(96

at home

centers).

These

prod-

ucts

can darken

the

finish

slightly,

so you have

to

apply

them

to

all

your

cabinets.

Clean

a

yucky

cutting

board

If

you

love

the

convenience

of your pullout

wooden

cutting

board

but don't

use it

because

itk

stained

and

grungy,

try

this

chef-approved,

two-step

process.

Simply

scour

the board

with a lemon

and

a

pile

of kosher

salt, then

apply

mineral

oil. The

coarse

kosher

salt is

an

excellent

abrasive,

and

the

citric

acid

kills

bacteria.

when

the

stains

are gone,

rinse

the board

with water

and let

it dry.

Then

appry

mineral

oil

to

the

board.

Mineral

oil helps prevent

the

wood

from

absorbing

stains.

C

nppty mineral

oit to

the

L

board

and wipe

off

the

excess.

After

a few

hours,

apply

a second

coat.

Buyer's

guide

AIL

the

cabinet

hardware

and

products

mentioned

here

are available

at home

centers

and

hardware

stores.

For

a targer

setection

of hinges,

catches

and

drawer

stides,

check

out Woodworker's

Hardware

at wwhirdware.com,

[800)

383-01

30.

1O SII/PLE

CABINET

REPAIRS

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

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Super-simple

DVD

holder

his

clever

shelf holds DVDs, CDs

or

even

small books.

You can

make

yours

with as

many shelves as

you

like

sim-

ply

by changing

the length of the

trunk.

To

get

started, cut

the trunk and shelves

to length.

Bevel one

end of

each shelf

by

tilting

your

miter saw

or table saw

blade to

5 degrees.

Mark

the notches in the shelves

and

trunk

(Photos

I

and

2). Measuring from the top ofthe

trunk, center

the notches at

8-112,

11.-112,

17-114,20-114,26-114and.29

in. Cut the

notches

using a 5-degree

guide

block

and a

pull

saw

(available

at home

centers for

$17.50).

Assemble

the

shelf

(Photo

3). Screw

metal

straps to the back

of the trunk, leaving

one screw

hole exposed

so

you

can screw the

DVD holder to

the

wall.

1-5l8

SCREW

I

{

Ef

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

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Scum-proof

your

shower

doors

Keeping

shower

doors

clean

and streak

free

is a

challenge-unless

you

know

the pros'cleaning

secret.

Start

by cleaning

any mold,

mildew

or

streaks

off

the

glass

with

a

glass

cleaner.

Use

a

Mr.

Clean

Magic

Eraser

( 3

for

a

two-pack

at

home

centers

and discount

stores)

to

get

into

the cracks

in

textured

glass.

Scrape

off

tough

buildup

with

a razor

blade.

Dry the

doors with

a cloth.

Tieat

the

doors

with

a

product

like Aquapel

( 8;

autobodydepot.com)

or Rain-X

( 5

at auto

parts

stores

and

home

centers).

These glass

treatments

form

an

invisible

film

on the glass

to

increase

water

repellency,

causing

water

and

soap

to bead

up and

run

offthe

glass.

(Squeegee

off

the water

after

bathing

to

keep

soap scum

from building

up

again.) Spray

or wipe on

the

glass

treatment,

then wipe

it

off with

a

microfiber

cloth.

Overspray

won't

harm

sur-

rounding

surfaces.

The products

repel water

for

six

months.

ffiepfimce

ffi

hnm*qmffi

dnyffin

wffiffit

ffiffiffi

C

ryer vent

caPs

are deliberately

lighrweight

so

they'll

open

used

to

attach

the

cap to

the

siding

and cut

through

the

easily,

but this

flimsiness

also means

they'll

break easily.

The

caulk

around

the edges

(Photo

1).

pull

out

the cap,

scrape

caps,

especially

the

type with

multiple

small

flaps, also

clog

away

old caulk

and

dirt,

and then

wipe

the

siding

clea.,

so

easily

with

lint.

(Avoid this

t)?e

unless

you're

conscientious

new caulk

will

stick.

about

cleaning

it.)

Cut the new

vent pipe

to the

same length

as

the

old

one,

To replace

an

old vent

cap,

first

pull

apart

the duct at

then

slide it through

the wall.

Screw the

cap

to the

siding

and

the last

joint

inside

the house.

If

the duct doesn't pull

apart

caulk

around

the

edges

with paintable

caulk.

easily,

look

for

small

screws

holding the

sections

of

pipe

Finally,

join

the

old duct

inside

the

house

to the

new vent

together'

Next, go

outside and

remove

the screws

or nails

(Photo2).Ventcapsareavailablefor 8athomecenters.

Cut

the

old caulk

with a utility

knife

and

pull

out

the

vent from

the

outside.

Insert

the duct from

the dryer

into the

new

vent

duct

and wrap

the

joint

with

metal

tape.

PROOF

YOUR

SHOWER DOORS:

REPLACE

A BROKEN

DRYER

VENT CAP

UPER-SIt\4PLE

DVD HOLDER;

SCUM

11

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Sffieed-dean

for

cheap

Use a

multipurpose cleaner

Stop

using

four to

six

products

to

clean

your bathroom. Use one

multipurpose

cleaner that

does it all, such

as

Mr. Clean

Multi-Surfaces

Cleaner

with

Febreze

($3

for

28 ozs.).

With a multipurpose cleaner,

bathroom

cleaning takes

five minutes.

mrclean.com

Use

a stain remover

Stain

removers

like

Super

Iron

Out

($10

for

5 lbs.) make

quick

work

of

rust

stains

in

sinks, tubs

and

toilets.

Pour it

onto

a sponge

or

add

it

to the water

in the toilet

bowl,

then scrub

with

the sponge

or

a

nylon-bristle brush.

You can

get rid

of

most stains

in

less

than

five

minutes.

s u

m m it bra nds.

co

m

Use a

Magic

Eraser

Use

a disposercleaner

Forget

lemons-clean

and deodorize

your

garbage disposer

with

a

product

like

Disposer

Care

($4

for

a

package

of

six

packets), in about I 5 seconds. Turn

on the hot

water,

pour

a

packet

of

Disposer Care

into the

disposer

and

turn

it

on.

Do

it once

a

week.

disposercare.com

one likes cleaning the

house,

but

you

can

make

the

chore

take

a

lot

less

time.

Here

are

the best cleaning

products

to

keep

your

house

sparkling and

save

you

several hours of

cleaning

per

week. You

won't

have

to

spend

a

lot of

money

either-most

of the

products

that

help

you work

smarter

cost less than

$5.

Yr* #'f-h *

old vacuum.

A

HEPA vacuum

filter

(starting

at

$8)

captures microscopic

airborne particulates. Old-fashioned

paper

or conventional

vacuum

bags

capture

only about 30

percent ofdust

and

allergens,

and

blow the

rest

back

into the air.

Use Tide

with

Dawn

StainScrubbers

g',,;1,ii'ip.,;;

with

Dawn Stain-Scrubbers

($6.50

for

50 ozs.), a detergent

that can handle stains

in the wash

cycle, saves

you valuable time.

tide.com

12

PRoJEcrs

UNDER

$1

o

A Mr.

Clean

Magic

Eraser

($3

for a

two-

pack) easily

rubs scuff

and

grease marks

offthe

wall.

mrctean.com

Use

Dishwasher

Magic

Dishwasher cleaning

takes about

five

seconds

with this method:

put

a

bottle

of Dishwasher

Magic

($5)

in

the

silverware basket

and

run

an

;;,;* ; ;r.s,c.com$)

n

W

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

15/148

Fixseam-

g

in

wallpaper*

Repairing

loose

wallpaper

seams is fairly

simple

and doesn't

require

a steamer.

|ust

apply

a seam

repair

adhesive.

It provides

a

solid

bond and

will

keep

the

seams

from

coming loose.

It's

available

at

paint

stores

and home

centers for

less

than

$10.

Squirt

the adhesive

directly

onto

the

wall

behind

the loose

seams,

then

press

the

edges

back

into

place.

Use a

roller

or

straightedge

as

shown

to firmly

press

the

paper

against

the wall

and

drive

out

any air

bubbles.

Wipe

away any

excess

adhesive

with

a damp

sponge.

Clean

chandeliers

guickly

;f

:J;;ffi

:lltT,H.:ilH::1,:1 -#ilnT?,:,,.:.ilitll;H,9

a ladder.

Want

an

easier way?

Try

a spray-on

chandr

spread a

plastic

tarp

on the

floor

or table

under

the

ch

drips. Then

turn

off the

light

and

spray

the solurion

on the

chandelier

until liquid

beads start

to run

(you'll

use a

lot

ofspray,

but

it

beats

wiping).

The

spray

rinses

off

the dust.

The

solution that's

left

evaporates

quickly

and

doesn't

leave

water

spots.

The

spray works

well

on hanging

crystals,

but don't

expect

it

to

remove

dust from

crevices.

Buy it

for

$10

from nancysilver.com

or

chandelierparts.com.

Better

traction

on

concrete

Paint

stores

sell additives

that

you

mix

with a

gallon

of

any

type

of

paint

or

solid-color

stain to

give you

better

traction

on concrete

surfaces. The

additive won't

change

the color

of the paint

or

stain,

but it

provides

texture

to

improve

traction.

Don't

expect

a completely

slip-resist-

ant

surface.

Stir the

additive

into

the

paint

(one

package

per

gallon), then

apply

the

paint

with

a

paintbrush

or roller.

If you're

applying

more than

one coat, put

the

additive in

the

final

coat.

The

additive

costs

about

$4.

Mix

the nonskid

floor

additive

with the

paint.

Then

apply

the

paint

to

give

the surface

a rough

texture

to

help

prevent

slips.

SPEED-CLEAN

FOR CHEAP:

FIX SEAI\-4S

IN

WALLPAPER;

cLEAN cHANDELIERS

QUIcKLY;

BETIER

TRAcTION

ON coNcRETE

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

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Stabi

lize

a

wobbly bookcase

arpet

is held in

place

by tack strips

placed

along

the

perimeter

of

the

room. When

you

set

your bookcase

(or

any other furniture) over

the strips,

it won't

sit level.

You have a

couple of options to

keep the bookcase

stable.

The

first

is

to

pull

the carpet free of the tack strip,

cut out

a

strip

of

padding where the

front

corners

of

the

bookcase

will sit, and

replace

the

padding

with a

wood shim that's

the same thickness

as

the tack strip, usually

l/4 to

3/8

in.

(Option

1

).

Option

2 is to

install

adjustable feet

(called

gliders;

$4

at home

centers)

on the

corners of

the

bookcase.

They're simple

to

install-just drill

a hole and insert the

feet. You

won't have to

mess with the carpet,

but

the feet may be

noticeable,

which

you

might not

like.

Resist the temptation to simply

remove the tack

strip. The car-

pet

can move,

even

under the weight of the

bookcase,

eventually

resulting in

a

carpet wrinkle in the

room.

Regardless

of

the option you choose,

secure the

bookcase to

the

wall

so

it

can't

tip

over. A

child climbing

or

pulling on an unse-

cured bookcase

could knock it over

(hundreds

ofkids

are

injured

each

year

by

falling furniture).

Fasten a

furniture

strap to

the wall

and

the

bookcase

to keep it from tipping over.

The straps

cost

about

$6

at Target and

hardware stores. Or, fasten

the bookcase

to

the wall by driving 3-in. screws through

the back of

the bookcase

(at

obscure locations)

into

studs

(be

sure

you hit studs). A total of

four screws-two screws

into

two

studs-is

plenty.

0PTION

2:

Drilt

hotes and

install

adjustable

feet on the bookcase

corners to levet it from

front

to

back and side

to

side,

'I

,N

:r i

OPTION

1:

Pu[l

back

the carpet.

Measure from

the wall the

width of the bookcase,

cut away

the

padding,

then insert shims

for

the

bookcase

corners,

,Y

t*

l/,

1

r,

.i

\

'

,\

,1

11

PRoJEcrs

UNDER

$ro

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

17/148

Rep*ir

srnall

holes

in

walls

Small holes

caused

by screws,

hooks,

wall

fasteners

or

drywall

fasteners

that pop

up are simple

to repair,

but

time

consuming

because

you

almost always

have

to repaint

the

walls.

Nail pops

are

common

and

particularly

irritating,

because you're

likely

to

have

more than

one. But

drywall

screws

sometimes pop

up too,

as a result

of damp

framing

that

dries

out

and

shrinks

during

the first

year

or

two in

new

construction.

The first

step

of the fix is

to drive nails

back down

using

a

nail set

(Photo

1).

If

you

have

screws,

dig the

drywall com-

pound

from

their

heads

with a

utility knife and

turn them

in

tight

with

a

screwdriver.

Then

dimple

the

hole slightly

concave with

a hammer

to

indent

any raised

edges. But

take care not

to crush

the dry-

wall

core. In

addition,

cut

away

any

paper

tears with

a

sharp

utilityknife.

This is

a

good

technique

to use

with

old wall

fas-

teners

as well.

It's

usually

easier

to

tap them

into

the

wall

slightly

rather

than

pull

them

out.

Two

coats of

joint

compound,

applied

with

two

swipes

of

a

putty

knife

in

a

+

pattern,

should

fill the

holes

(photo

3).

The

first

coat will

shrink

a

bit,

leaving

a slightly

smaller

dent

to

be

filled

by

the second

coat.

Scrape

the

excess

off

the

surrounding

wall

so

you

don't

build up

a

hump.

Sand

lightly

to

blend with

the surrounding

wall.

Be sure

to

prime

the

spot before painting

it.

Otherwise

the

paint

will absorb

into

the patch

and

make

the area

look

different

from

the surrounding

paint.

Use

a

roller

when

priming

to help

raise

the

surface

texture

to match

the

sur-

roundingwall.

Drive

a

popped

nail

betow

the

surface

of the

drywall with

a hammer

and

a nail

set.

Cut

away loose

joint

compound

and

paper

shreds.

Drive

drywall

screws

about

7-t/2

in.

above

and below

the

popped

nai[.

Sink

the

screw head

just

below the

surface

of the

drywait.

Fil[

the

holes

with

joint

compound,

swiping first

across

the holes,

then

down.

Let

dry

apply

a

second

coat,

then

sand,

prime

and

paint.

Quick

fix

for

a wobbly

table

leg

Got a table

leg, a

swing

set or

just

about any

other item with

chronically

loose

nuts

and

bolts? Here's

a

quick

fix to keep

metal threads

tight

once

and

for

all

(not

for

plastics)

using color-coded

Loctite

Threadblocker

products.

Loctite

Threadblocker

Blue 242

(97

ar home

cenrers)

is

great

for

locking

together

114-in.-

to 3/4-in.-diameter

fasteners.

Blue

creates

a

strong

hold but

can

be

broken free

to

unscrew

the fastener

when neces-

sary.

Red Loctite

271

($7)

is

for

larger

fasteners

and more permanent

connections

for

swing

sets,

decks and

ready-to-assemble

furniture.

With

either color, you

just

squeeze a little

Loctite

adhesive

onto

the

threads

and

then

tighten

the fastener.

The

bond

will

set

in

20

minutes

and

cure

completely

in

24

hours. The

Loctite adhesive prevents

fasteners

from

vibrating

loose

or rusting.

It

also

does a

good

job

of sealing

metal

plugs

in

water

or air

tanks.

Clean and

dry

the

parts.

Appty

Loctite

Threadblocker

Blue

to the fastener

threads

and

reassemble

the

table.

STABILIZE

A WOBBLY BOOKCASE;

REPAIR SMALL

HOLES

IN

WALLS;

QUICK FIX

FOR A WOBBLY

TABLE LEG

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

18/148

Patch

wallg

with

aluminum

he

traditional

method

of

repairing

holes

in

walls is to

square the

hole,

put

wood

backing

behind

it,

cut

and

screw

on

a

drywall

patch, and

then

tape

the edges.

Aluminum

patches,

available at

home centers

and

paint

and

hardware

stores

for

2

to

4,

give

the same

results

with

much

less

work. The

patches, which come

in

4-,

6-

and 8-in.

sizes,

are

stiff

enough to span holes and

thin

enough to

disappear

after taping

and

painting.

Select

a

patch

large enough

to overlap the

hole

on

all

sides

by an

inch, then stick

the

patch

on

(Photo

1).

Patches can be

cut

or overlapped as

needed.

Tiowel on the

first coat

ofjoint

compound over

the

patch,

spreading the compound

flat enough to

see

the outline of the

mesh through

it

(Photo

2).

Allow the compound

to dry

overnight, then apply a

wider

second coat

(Photo

3), followed

by

a

final,

third

coat after

the

second coat dries.

Spread the compound

in thin coats extending

8

to 12 in. beyond

the

patch

in

all

directions.

After the final coat

has

dried overnight,

sand it smooth,

prime

and

paint

(Photo

4).

Spread

the

first

coat of

joint

compound over

the

patch

with

a wide taping

knife.

Let it dry overnight.

4

Ctean

off

broken

edges

and

tears

around

the

hole.

Then

l.ou.r

the

hote

entirety

with the

patch,

sticky

side toward

the wa[t.

3

16

When

it's

dry, recoat the

patch

and then

feather out

the

compound on atl sides to

make

the

patch

blend

in.

PROJECTS

UNDER

1

O

/.

Sand

the

patched

area with a sanding

sponge until

it feets

e'*

smooth and even.

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

19/148

Balanceaceilingfan

s}

f

your

ceiling

fan

wobbles

and

makes

more

racket

than an

,n-

'*

the

blade

holder

is firmiy

screwed

into

the fan

fl',vheel.

Remove

balanced

washing

machine

load,

this

fix

is for

you.

Ceiling

fan

anydustorbuildupfromthefalbladeswithahouseholdcleaner.

l

:

...i

,:

I

-

,l

.i:

i

;rl-,

; : I

:rr

j

i

I

:,

;.

t,

wobble

is

caused

by

Run

the fan

to

check

the wobble

and to

dry the

fan

blades.

If

the

imbalances

in the

fan

wobble

persists,

one

of the

blades

may

be

out

of alignment.

blades

or blade

hoid-

Check

blade

alignment

with

a

yardstick

by

measuring

the

dis-

ers,

misalignment

of

tance from

the

edge

of any

blade

to

the ceiling

(photo

l), and

blades,

excess

dust

make

a

note

of

the

distance. Measure

all

the other

blades

in

accumulation

or just

exactly

the same

manner.

If

any

blade is

out of

alignment,

gently

loose

blade holder

bend the

blade

holder

up or

down

until the

blade

is in line

with

mounting

screws.

the

others.

Restore

your

fan

to its

Turn the

fan

on to

see

if it

spins

smoothly.

If it

still

wobbles,

smooth-running

days

pick

up

a blade

balancing

kit

(g6)

from

a hardware

store

or home

before you

wear down

center.

The balancing

clip

will

balance

the fan

blades,

eliminating

the moving parts.

the

wobble.

{

Measure

the

distance

from

the

I

ceiling

to

the

edge

of

a blade

with

a

yardstick.

Hold

the

yardstick

stil[

and

rotate

the fan

to measure

the other

blades (most

blades

are

angled, so

be

sure to

measure

on

the same

side

of

atl

the bLades).

.*:.,,

First,

make

sure

all

the

biades

are

tightly

screwed

into

t* hr.

the blade

holder,

and

Photo

2

shows how

to

attach

the

balancing

clip

and

pinpoint

the wobble.

Once you've

found

the

best

location

for

the clip,

install

a balancing

weight

on

the

blade

as shown

in

photo

3.

Add

more

weight if

needed

to get

a

smooth-running

fan.

)

suae

the

balancing

ctip

on the

E

trailing

edge

of any

blade.

haifway

between

the holder

and

tip.

Run

the fan

to

check

the

wobble.

Repeat

with

each

blade,

noting

which

one

most reduced

the wobbte,

then slide

the

clip

in

small

increments

away from

the

center

of that

blade.

Move

the

clip, operate

the fan,

then

move it

again

until

you

eliminate

as

much

wobble

as

possible.

Q

reet

off

the back-

J

ing

and stick

the

adhesive-backed

ba[-

ancing

weight

on

the

top center of

the

btade

directly

in

[ine

with

the

ba[-

ancing

clip.

ADHESIVE.BACKED

-

':*

J?

'flYf '+.51i-

ffimc$m$nx

*rrusty

pm*mt

You

don't

have to

toss

out old

paint

just

because

it contains

a few

gooey globs

or chips.

Instead,

filter out

the bad

bits with

a dispos-

able

paint

strainer

(about

g1).

Two

types

of

strainers

are readily

available

at

home

centers

and paint

and

hardware

stores:

the cone

type

and

the mesh

type,

which

does the

job

faster

but is

a

bit

messier

to use.

Keep

in

mind

that

old acrylic latex paint

may

not

stand

up

to

the

elements

as well

as new paint.

So if

you

have leftover

exterior

paint

that's

more

than

four

years

old,

play

it

safe

and

buy new

paint.

Better

to spend

a

few

bucks now

than

to scrape

peeling

paint

later.

.-

\

ADHESIVE-

BACKEDWEtcttt

r'

PATCH

WALLS

WITH

ALUN4]NUl\/:

BALANCE

A

CEILING

FANI

RECLAIM CRUSTY

PAINT

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

20/148

Caulk

cracked

concrete

racks and

gaps

in

concrete

are more

than

just

an eyesore.

Water can

get

into

the

joints,

freeze

and then expand,

making the

cracks

even

larger. Gaps against

a

house can

direct water against the foundation, leading

to

more

problems.

Once

a

year, go

around

your

home and

filI these

gaps

and

joints

with urethane caulk to

prevent problems. The

caulk

is available at

contractor supply stores, home centers and

hardware stores for

about

$5

per

tube. For

gaps

and

joints

more

than

l/4

in. wide,

install

foam backer

rod to support

the caulk.

You

want

the

rod to

fit

tight

in

the

joint,

so buy

it

one size

larger

than

the

gap. It costs

about

$3

per

20 ft.

Keep

the urethane caulk

offyour bare

hands and clothes;

it's

the stickiest stuff

you'll

ever touch. Wear disposable

gloves

when

you're

tooling the

joints.

If

you get

some on

your skin,

quickly

wipe it offwith a

paint

thinner-dampened cloth.

-*.

sg

{

fusn foam backer rod into

the

gap

with

your

fingers.

Set

I

the rod

1/4

in.

lower than the surface of the

concrete.

Q

Cautt< cracks

7/4 in. wide

or less

without

using backer rod.

rJ

Draw the

gun

down the crack, smoothing the

caulk

with

the

tip as

you

go.

)

fnthe crack with

urethane

cautk. Snip the opening

of the

E

tube at

a 30-degree

angle,

making

the

opening

the same

size as

your

gap.

Use a

smooth,

even motion,

fi[ing the crack

flush

with

the surface,

beveling

it if it's against

the

house.

Smooth the caulk in wide

joints

with the

back of an old

spoon.

Wipe the spoon clean as needed

with

a rag and

mineral spirits.

18

PRoJEcrs UNDER

$io

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

21/148

Floor-friendly

feet

for

furniture

Most

manufacturers

put

small

metal

buttons

on

furniture

legs.

Metal

feet

slide

easily

across

factory

and

warehouse

floors,

but

they

can

damage

any

type

of

hard

flooring

in

your

house

(even

ceramic

tile).

On carpet,

a

spilled drink

can even

lead

to rust

stains,

So

whenever

you get

a

new

piece

of

furniture, go

to your

local

home

center

or

hardware

store,

where

you'll

find

a

variety

of furniture

feet

for

less

than

$5.

,l

Remoue

metat

buttons

on

furniture

tegs. If

I

a

button is

sunk

deep into

the

wood

and

you

can't

pry

it

out,

dritt a 1/4-in.

hote and

lever it

out

with

a small

screwdriver.

)

StrX

setf-adhesive

pads

to

the

E

[egs

or

drive in

nail-type

feet.

0n

hardwood

legs,

dritl

a

pilot

hote

stightty

smaller

than

the nait

shank.

Pads

Felt

or cloth

pads

are

gentle

on

ftoors,

but

they don't stide

as

easily

as

plastic

feet.

Make

a sha[low

cut

lengthwise

through

the

outer

jacket,

then

tightty

score

around

the

cord

until

you

can

break

the

jacket

off.

Cut

and strip

the

wires

to the

length indicated

in

the strip

gauge,

leaving

as much

of

the outer

jacket

as

possible.

\ ff1,1: 1

:,5. *,::

il:

T,.: :,:::

because

of

rising

copper prices,

so rebuilding

old,

damaged

ones

with

new plugs

or receptacle

ends

($5)

is

a smart

move.

(Photo

I

).

Don't push

the

blade in-just

score

the rubber

jacket

gently

until

you

can

tear the rubber

off,

so

you

don't accidentally

cut

into

one

ofthe

wires.

strip

the

wires

(look for a

stripping

gauge

on

the

plug

or

in the

instructions),

then separate

the wires

and screw

them

into

place.

This

step can

be fussp

especially

with

stiff

l2-gauge

wire,

but

resist

the

temptation

to cut

the

insulation

jacket

back-

the

more

of

the

jacket

you

can leave

inside

the

plug,

the less

likely

it is

to

tear or

pull

out

of the

plug

clamp

when the

cord

is

yanked

out

of an

outlet.

close

the

plug

and

screw

it

together

tightly

so

the

cord is

locked

in.

This

replace-

ment plug

had

a reversible

gasket

with

a curved

side

for heary

cords.

other

types

use

screws

to hold

the

cord in

place.

Twist

the

wires

tight,

then

screw

them

into

the

plug-black

to

the

gold

screw,

white

to sitver,

green

to

green.

CAULK

CRACKED

C0NCRETE;

FL00R-FRIENDLY

FEET

FOR FURNITURE;

REPATR

0LD EXTENSTON

CORDS

19

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

22/148

Unclog

a

tub drain

without chemicals

bout

80

percent

of

the time,

you

can

fix slow-draining

or

clogged

tub

drains in five

minutes,

without

chemicals

and

without

a

100

plumber

bill.

In most cases,

you'll

only

need a screwdriver and

a

stiffwire

or a bent

coat

hanger. The

prob-

lem

is

usuallyjust

a

sticky

wad ofhair that

collects on

the crossbars,

a few inches under the stopper.

All

you

need

to do is figure

out how

to

remove the stopper

(that's

almost always

easy) and

fish out the

gunk.

Bend a

little hook on the

end

of the stiff

wire with a

needle-nose

pliers

and shove it through the clog-you'll

nearly

always

extract the

entire ugly

mess.

If hair

is

wrapped

around the

crossbars, slice

through it

with a utility knife and then

grab

it with

the

wire.

Follow

this

series

of

photos

to

determine which type

of

stopper

you

have and

how

to

remove it.

The most

common

type, a drop stopPer

(shown

at

right),

has

a setscrew

located under

the cap.

Pushflock

drain

stoppers

These stoppers lock

and seal when

you

press

them down and

release

when

you

push

down

L

a

second

time. The

way to remove them

isn't

,

I

so obvious.

In

most cases

you

have

to hold the

\

Drop

stoppers

Lift

the

stopper and loosen

the

screw

on the shaft

stightty. Stide the

stopper off the shaft.

stem

while unscrewing the cap as

shown.

With

the

cap

off,

you can sometimes

fish out the

hair

from

the

crossbars.

Otherwise simply

remove

the

entire

shaft by unscrewing

it. You may

have

to

adjust

the screw

tension on the

stem when

you

reinstall

everything

to

get

a

good

seal.

Hold the stopper shaft

tightty with

a

finger and

unscrew

the top.

20 spEcrAL sECTroN: 10-MtNUTE

ptuMBtNG

FIxES

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

23/148

*\\

Levered

stoppers

ilxT::::T:il:1#H#::T:L1t T

[T.,P**B

Most ofthese

have

a

lever on the

overflow

plate and

a

screen

over the

drain.

The

screen

keeps most hair

-

,/

out of

the drain,

but

some

gets

through and eventually

forms

a clog

at the crossbars.

Simply

unscrew

the

screen

for

easy

access

to

this

clog and

remove

it as before, If

the drain has

an

internal

stopper,

simply

unscrew

the overflow plate

and

pull

the

linkage

and

stopper

up and

out. Then clean

the linkage and

stop-

per

and

run

water down

the

drain to flush

it out.

Occasionally

the

linkage

is

out of adjustment

and

the stopper

doesn't

open far

enough

from its

seat to

allow

a

good

flow.

Adjust

it,

reinsert

it and

test

it.

Run water

into

the

tub.

If it leaks

out,

Iengthen

the stopper

linkage

to

seal the

drain better.

If

the drain

doesn't

open

to let the

water

out, shorten

the stopper linkage.

First remove

the

screen

and clean

the crossbars. Then

unscrew

the overflow

plate, pull

out the linkage,

clean the stopper

and

linkage,

and

rinse

the drainpipes.

Readjust

the tinkage

if

necessary.

Reinstatl

the

assembly.

.;J

If,;s

Replace

a teaky water

valve

The

key

to

replacing

a leaky

water valve

is

to

use a

special

slip

or

no-stop

coupling

(available

at home centers

for

less

than

$3).

Unlike

traditional

couplings,

no-stop

couplings

don't

have a flange

or

dimple

that

stops

the

plumbing

pipe

once it's inserted

halfiuay into

the cou-

pling.

This lets you

install

the cou-

pling

and move

it back

out of

the

way)

then have

room

to

insert

the

new

section

ofpipe.

Turn

off

the water,

then cut

the

pipe

about

6

in. from

each side

of

the

leaky valve,

using

a

pipe

cutter

or

a hacksaw.

Place

the no-stop

coupling

over the

existing pipe. Cut

a

new

section

ofpipe

to

replace

the

piece

you

cut

out

(be

sure

to

factor

in

the

length

of

the water

valve).

Solder the

pipe

to

the valve,

then

stick the

assem-

bled

section

between

the

two

existing

pipes.

Move

the

no-stop

coupling over

the new pipe,

then

solder all the

joints.

fl\

STOPPED

COUPLING

{TWO

swLEs)

NO-STOP

COUPLING

Move

the

no-stop

coupling

over the

pipe

assembly,

then

install

the

new

valve

and

pipe

assembly.

Move

the no-stop

coupling

over

the

pipe

assembly,

then

sotder it

to

the assembly

and the

existing

pipe.

SPECIAL

SECTION:

1O-MINUTE

PLUN4BING

FIXES

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

24/148

Fast

fix

for

a

slow-fitling

washer

lf

**i*.* .T*ffr}i.']

plugged

inlet

screens. These screens

catch debris

in

the

water supply

and

protect

a

washer's

internal

parts.

Often, screens clog after a

remodeling

project or after

work

by

city

crews on water

mains. Any

work on

water lines can

loosen

sediment

in

pipes

and

lead to

plugged

screens.

Cleaning the

screens

is a

simple

job.

The only

tricky

part is removing

the screens

without

wrecking

them

(Photo

l).

Don't

just

yank

them out.

Gently

squeeze and twist as

you pull.You'll

distort

the

screens

a

little, but

you

can mold them

back into shape

with your

fingers.

If

your

screens are cemented

in

place

by mineral

deposits,

you may

not be able to remove them

without

damage.

A

new

pair

of

screens

will

cost about

$5

at an appliance

parts

store. Clean the

screens

with

run-

i

ning water or blow out debris with

an air compressor. You may

have to

pick

and

scrape away

stubborn

particles

with

a

utility knife.

tip

cn..r

your

washer

suppty

hoses, too.

Some contain

screens that

can be

removed and

cteaned

just

tike

inlet screens.

'l

turn off the hot

and cotd

water

supplies and

I

disconnect the hoses. Use a

pair

of needle-nose

pliers

to

gently

remove

the screens

for

cleaning.

)

Wort

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

25/148

If your plumbing

bangs and

clangs

like a

metal, you've

got

water

hammer.

Water developt

momen-

yffo

tum

as it flows

fast through pipes.

When

a

valve

closes

quickly

and

stops the

flow

that

momentum

shakes

and

pounds pipes.

Water

hammer

arresters

cure this

condi-

tion with

a

cushion

of air that absorbs

the

SLIDING

PISION

momentum.

Before

you

install

arresters,

determine

which

faucets

Quiet

clanking

pipes

or valves

in

your

house

cause

the

noise.

Washing

mac$ines

and{

dishwashers

are

prirge

sgfo.glg

because

their

automatic

close fast.

Arresters

for washing

machines

have

screw-on

connec-

tions, making them

as

easy

to

as

a

garden

hose,

Other

arresters

connect

directly

to ll2-in. pipe,

often

under

sinks.You

usually have

to

cut

pipes

and

add tees

to

install them.

Check

the

packagitrg

for installation

details. Arresters

cost

a6out

$10

each at home

centers

and

hardware

stores.

ARBESTER

WATER

MOMENTUM

attach

Fix

a

slow-running

faucet

If

the flow

from

your

kitchen

or

bathroom

faucet is

weak,

the

aerator

is

probably

plugged.

An aerator

can clog

slowly

as mineral

deposits

build

up, or

quickly

after

plumbing

work

loosens

debris

inside pipes.

Usually,

a

quick

cleaning

solves

the

problem.

Remove

the

aerator

(Photo

l)

and disas-

semble

it. You

may need

a small

screwdriver

or knife to

pry

the components

apart.

Scrub

away any tough

buildup

with

an old

toothbrush

(Photo

2)

and rinse

each

part

thoroughly.

Gunk

can

also build

up inside

the faucet

neck, so ream

it out

with your

finger

and

flush

out the loosened

debris.

If the

mineral

buildup

resists

scrubbing

and

you

have

a

standard

cylinder-shaped

aerator, you

can replace

it

(about

$5).

Take

your

old

aerator

along

to the home

center or hard-

ware

store

to find

a

match.

Ifyour

aerator has

a fancy

shape

(like

the

one shown

here),

finding

a

match

won

t

be

as sim-

ple.

So

try

this

first:

Soak

the

aerator parts

in

vinegar

overnight

to soften

mineral

buildup.

Ifthat

doesrt't

work,

go

to any

online

search engine

and type in

the brand of your

faucet

followed

by faucet parts.

With

a

little

searching,

you

can

find

diagrams

ofyour

faucet and

order a new

aerator,

E4pect

to

spend

$10

or more

for

a

nonstandard

aerator.

rt

Wrap

the

jaws

of a

pair

of

I

pliers

with

electricat tape

and unscrew

the aerator.

Close

the

stopper

so the small

parts

can't

fall

down

the drain.

trt

ID

@r:d

J

Oisassembte

the aerator

L

and

lay

out the

parts

in

the

order

you

remove

them

to

make

reassembly

foolproof.

Scrub

the

parts

and

reassemble

them.

spEctAL

sECTt0N:

10-MtNUTE

pLUMBtNG

FtxEs 23

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

26/148

A

trick

for

splicing

in

plastic

drainpipe

When

working with

plastic pipe,

don't try to cement

(solvent-weld)

all the new

couplings

when replacing a section at a

junction.

Most drain

systems use

rigid

pipes fairly large in diameter. You can't

flex them enough to slide on that

last fit-

ting and

get

it to

seat

fully.

Rather than struggle with cement,

pros

use a

mis-

sion coupling

(Photos

3 and

4) that clamps over the

last

joint.

Even

though

a

mission coupling

costs

$5

to

$10,

compared

with

a 500

plastic

coupling, the

extra cost

is worth it. Sometimes,

pros

will even use

two

mission couplings in

tight

situations.

Photos 1

-

4

walk

you through the

process. Be

sure to buy cou-

plings

with full steel sleeves,

and make sure

mission

couplings meet

code

requirements in

your

area.

'l

sry and assembte

matching

I

replacement

parts.

Mark the

cutting

points

on

the old

drains

about

1/2 in. larger than the

reptacement.

a

Cut the

plastic

at a

right

angte

G

using a

fine-tooth

saw and

remove the assembly.

L

Center

the

mission

coupting

rt

ouer the third

joint

and

tighten

the

bands

firmly.

?

stia. the

mission

coupting

J

onto one

pipe

and cement

plastic

couptings

onto

the

other

two

pipes.

Keep

your

washing

ffi1 :-:': :: n:,.9

between loads and only wash

a couple

of

loads

per

week,

you'll probabiy notice

a

moldy smell after a few

months. That's

because

the

ultra-tight

seal on

front loader

doors doesn't

let

the

interior

dry,

and

between

washings,mold

can grow inside

the

damp confines.

And

because

front

loaders

use

less

water

than

top

loaders

(which

fill up

almost to the top),

they

don't

always

wash away the mold

when

you run

a

load oflaundry.

Eliminating the mold

is easy.

Just

run

the empty

washer through a cycle

once a

month

with a

mold cleaner designed

for

front

loaders,

such as Affresh.

Buy

it at

whirlpool.com

($7

for

a

pack

ofthree)

or

find retailers at affresh.com.

If

you

don't

want to use the tablets,

you can substitute

a cup ofbleach.

You can

prevent

mold

by treating

the

washer

monthly

with a

mold cleaner

or bleach and keeping the

door open

between

washings so

the

interior

can

dry out.

21

SPECIAL

SECTI0N: 10-MINUTE

PLUMBING

FIXES

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

27/148

26

Kitchen

cabinet

rolt-outs

31

Cookware

organizer

32

Customize your

kitchen

cabinets

33

Instant

organizer

Measuring

cup

hang-up

Spice holder

34

Fix

a drippy

batt-type

faucet

36

Make

oLd

windows

like new

4A

Renew

tired-tooking

windows

47

Two-story

ctoset

shetves

Ctoset

nook

shelves

42

How

to

stop

a running

toilet

45

Easy-to-buil d shoe storage

46

Laundry

room

improvement

47

Upgrade

your

recessed

lights

Test

for

lead

SPECIAL

SECTI0N:

Free

projects

48

Extend

the

tife

of

your

water

heater

49

Free

a sticking

storm

door

SeaI

a drafty

door

50

Fix

a door

[atch

that

won't

catch

5t

Prevent

bathroom

motd

Stripped

hinge

screw

fix

52

Stop washing

machine

walk

Doubte

the

Ufe

of

your

paintbrushes

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

28/148

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

29/148

finish

them

to

match your

cabinets

(use

ply-

wood

for

the bases).

But

if

you

use

3/4-in.

mate-

rial for

the

sides,

subtract

3 in.

from

the

door

opening

to build

the

roll-out

(not

2-112

in'

as

described

in Photo

2).

The

drawer

carriers

(Figure

A) are

made

from pine

1x4s

for the

sides

(Photo

7)

and ll4-

in.

MDF

(medium

density fiberboard)

for

the

bases

(Photo

9).

The MDF

keeps

the

drawer

base

spaced properly

while

you

shim

and attach

it to

the

cabinet

sides.

It

can be removed

and

reused

for

other

carriers

after installation.

If

MDF

isn't

available,

substitute

any

other

l/4-in.

hardboard

or plywood.

Side-mounted

slides

are

the

best

choice

among

drawer

slide

options.

Their

ball-

bearing

mechanisms

and

precise

fit

make

for smooth-operating

drawers

that

hold

90 lbs.

or

more.

These

roll-outs

feature

22-in.

full-

extension

KV

brand

side-mount

drawer

slides

that

have

a 90-lb.

weight rating. That

means

they'll

be

sturdy

enough

even

for a

drawer

full

of

canned

goods.

Full-extension

slides allow

the

roll-out

to

extend

completely

past

the

cabinet

front

so you

can

access

all

the contents.

Expect

to

pay

about

$6

to

$15

per

set

ofslides

at any

home

center

or well-stocked

hardware

store.

Measure

carefully

before

you

build

Nearly

all

standard

base cabinets

are

23-ll4in.

d,eep from

the

inside

of the

face frame

to

the

back

of the

cabinet.

So in most

cases,22-

in.-long

roll-out

drawer

and carrier

sides

wili

clear

the

cabinet

with

room

to spare.

Check

your

cabinets

to make

sure

that 22-in.

roll-outs

will

work.

If

you

have

shallower

cabinets,

sub-

tract

whatever

is necessary

when you

build your

roil-outs

and

their

carriers

(see

Figure

A).

Then

measure

the

cabinet

width.

The

drawer

has

to

clear

the

narrowest part

of the

opening

(Photo

1).

When

taking

this

measure-

ment,

include

hinges

that

protrude

into the

opening,

the edge

of

the

door

attached

to

the

hinges,

and

even

the

doors

that

won't

open

completely

because

they

hit

nearby

appliances

or

other

cabinets.

Plan

on

making

the drawer

front

and rear parts

2-l12

in. shorter

than

the

opening

(Figure

A).

Drawers

with

3-l12-in.-high

sides are

shown

here,

but you

can

customize

your

own.

Plan

on

higher

sides

for

lightweighr

plastic

storage

containers

or

other

tall

or tippy

items,

and lower

sides

for

stable,

heavier

items

like

small

appliances.

LENGTH:

OPENING

MINUS

Z-tl2"

WIDTH:3-1l2"

SIDE

3-112"

x22"

'l

open

the

I

cabinet

doors

to their

widest

point

and

measure

the narrowest

part

of

the

cabinet

opening

(usually

at

the

hinges).

ROLL.OUTS

27

314"

x3-112"

x22"

Figure

B

3/4" x3-112"

x22"

,:r'i

;i:i

: :

Carrier

assembly

+',

f. i,l'.

I

I

Drawer

assembly

all 1/2" plywood

SIDE

3-112"

x22"

114"

MDF

KITCHEN

CABINEI

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

30/148

A

nip 1/2-in.

plywood

down

to

3-1/2-in.-wide

strips

and cut

L

two

22-in.

tengths

(drawer

sides)

and

two

more

to the

measured width

(from Photo

1)

minus 2-t/2

in. (drawer

front

and back; Figure A).

Q

CUrp

or

screw

two straight

l2-in.2x4s

to the corner of

a

J

ftat

surface

to

use as an assembly

jig.

Use

a carpente/s

square to ensure squareness.

Leave

a

2-in.

gap

at the

corner.

L

spread wood

glue

on

the

ends and clamp

a drawer side

A]

.iO

front

in

p-lace,

then

pin

the corner together

with

three

l-714-in.

brads.

Repeat for the other three

corners.

Drawer

slides

aren't

as

confusing astheyseem

At first

glance,

drawer

slides are

pretty

hard

to figure out,

but after

you

install one set,

youll

be an

expert. They're

sold in

pairs and

each

ofthe

pairs

has trvo

parts. The

drawer

part attaches to the

roll-out

while

the

cabinet

part

attaches

to the carrier.

To separate

them for mounting, slide them out

to full length and

then

push,

pull

or depress a

plastic

release

to

separate the two

parts.

The

release button

position

and shape

vary among manufacturers,

but

ifyou

look

at

the directions,

youll

be able to

figure it out.

The

cabinet

part,

which always encloses

the drawer

part,

is

the

larger

of the

two,

and the

mounting

screw

hole locations

will

be shown

in

the directions.

(Screws

are

included with

the drawer

slides.)

The oversized

holes

allow

for

some

adjustment,

but if

you follow

the instructions,

you

shouldn't

have to fuss

with fine-tuning

later.

28

PROJECTS

$1

o ro

$25

f,

Cut a

t/2-in.

plywood

bottom to size.

Appty

a thin bead of

J

gtue

to the

bottom edges, and nail one edge of the

plywood

flush with a side, spacing

nails

every 4

in. Then

push

the frame

against

the

jig

to

sguare

it and nait the other three

edges.

When mounting the

slides,

make

sure

to hold them

flush with the

front ofthe

roll-out drawer

and carrier sides

(Photos

6 andT).

The front of the drawer

part

usually

has

a

bent metal stop that

faces

the

front ofthe drawer.

Assembling

parts

and

finishing the

roll-outs

It's important to build the roll-out drawers

perfectly

square

for

them to

operate

properly.

Photos

3

and

4

show

a

simple

squaring

jig

that

you

can

clamp to a corner of any

workbench

to

help.

Use

the

jig

to

nail

the frame together,

but

even

more important, to

hold the frame square

when

you

nail on the bottom

panel.

If

it hangs over the sides even

a little, the drawer slides

won't

work

smoothly.

Use

l-1/4-in.

brads

for all of the assembly. Glue the

drawer

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

31/148

f,

Separate

the drawer

stides and

space the

drawer

part

V 7/4

in.

up

from

the bottom.

Hold it

fl.ush to

the front

and

screw it

to the

rott-out

side.

Q

Stia

the

drawer

and

carrier

sides

together

and measure

the

t/

carrier

width.

Cut

7/4-in. MDF

to

that width

and 1

in.

less

than

the

carrier

depth (usually

21

in.).

parts

together

but

not

the

bottom

ofthe carrier.

It

only

serves

as a

temporary

spacer

for mounting.

(After

mounting

the

carrier

and

drawer,

you

can

remove

it

if it

catches

items

on

underlying

drawers

or

even

reuse

it

for

other carriers.)

Ifyou'd like

to finish

the

roll-out

for

a

richer

look

and

easier

cleaning,

sand

the

edges

with

120-grit paper

and

apply a couple

of

coats

of

water-based

pollurethane

before mounting

the slides.

To figure

the

spacer

thickness,

rest

the lower

carrier

on

the

bottom

of the

shelf,

push

it against

one

side of

the cabinet

and

measure

the gap

on

the

other

(Photo

l0).

Rip spacers

to

halfthat

measurement

and

cut

six

of

them to

3-112

in.

long.

Slip the spac-

ers between

both

sides

of

the carrier

to check

the

fit.

They

should

slide

in

snugly

but

not tightly.

Recut

new

spacers if

you

have

to. In

out-of-square

cabinets,

you

may

have to

custom-cut

spacers

for

each

ofthe

three

pairs

ofspacers,

so

check

each ofthe

three

spacer

Mount

the

carrier

part

of the

drawer

slide ftush

with

the

bottom

and

front

of the

carrier

sides.

Q

nest

the

carrier

assembly

on 3/4-in.-thick

spacers,

puI

the

J

carrier sides

slightly

away

from

the

drawer,

then

nail

on

the carrier

bottom (no

glue).

positions.

It's

easiest to

tack

the

spacers

to the

roll-outs

to

hold

them

in

place

before predrilling

l/8-in.

holes

and

running

the

screws through

the roll-out

frames

and

spacers

and

into

the cabi-

net

sides

(Photo

i t

).

Slip the roll-out

into

its

carrier

and

check

for

smooth

opera-

tion.

If

you

followed

the

process,

it

should

work

perfectly.

If it

binds,

it's

probably

because

the

spacers are

too wide

or narrow

Pull

out

the

carrier,

remove

the

spacers

and

start

the

spacer

process

all

over

again.

The

best way

to

level

and

fasten

the

upper roll-out

is

to

sup-

port

it

on temporary plywood

spacers

(Photo

12).

The

height

of

the spacers

is up

to

you.

If, for

example,

you

want

to

store

tall

boxes

of

cereal

on the

bottom

roll-out

and

shorter items

on the

top,

space the

top roll-out

higher.

You

can

even

build

and

install

three

or more

roll-outs

in

one

cabinet for

mega

storage

of

short

7

KITCHEN

CABINET

ROLL-OUTS

29

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

32/148

'l

fl

n"tou.

the drawer,

tip

the carrier

into the cabinet

and

IV

pustr

the

carrier

against

one side.

Measure

the

gap

and

rip

six

3-l/2-in.-[ong

spacers

to

half

of the

thickness.

{

el

lait

the

spacers

to the center and

each

end of the

I I

carrier sides

(not

into the cabineti see inset

photo).

Then

predrill

and screw

the carrier

sides

to the cabinet

in

the

center of each spacer.

Stide

the drawer

back into

place.

4 a

Cut

ptywood

spacers to

temporarity support

the

upper

I 4

rott-out and set them onto

the carrier below.

Rest

the second carrier on the spacers

and instatl

it as shown

in

Photo 11.

items like cans, cutlery or beverages.

(Those

now-obsolete

shelves

you're

replacing

with roll-outs are

good

stock

to use

for

your

spacers.) Again,

pin

the spacers

in

place

with

a

brad or two

to hold

them while

you're predrilling

and

screwing the

carriers to the

cab-

inet sides. Be sure

to

select screw

lengths that

won't

Penetrate

exposed cabinet sides

In

most cases,

1-5/8-in.

screws

are

the best

choice. Strive for 1/2-in.

penetration into the cabinet

sides. Coun-

tersink the heads as far as necessary

to

get

the

proper

penetration.

Building

wastebasket rol l-outs

Wastebasket roll-outs are

just

upside-down

versions

of

standard

roll-outs. That

is,

the carrier

is

mounted on the

top rather

than

the bottom

of

the

roll-out

and the slides

are

positioned at the

bottom edge

ofthe

carrier sides.

That

lets

the wastebasket

lip clear

the MDF. Follow

Figure B

on

p.

27 for the

details.

30

PRoJEcrs

$1

o ro

$2s

{ Q

euifU an

upside-down version of the carrier and

rott-

*rJ

outs

for

the wastebasket drawer

(Figure

B).

Center and

trace around

the rim of the wastebasket(s).

Use a compass to

mark the opening

1/2 in.

smaller.

This wastebasket

roil-out

is

built inside an

18-in.-wide

cabinet,

to fit two

plastic

containers

back to back.

Ifyou

only

have

a 15-in. cabinet

to

work with,

you

may

be

limited to one container

mounted sideways.

Buy

your

containers

ahead of time to fit

your

opening.

With some

wastebasket roll-outs,

you

may need to knock the

MDF

free

from

the carriers after

mounting

so

the

wastebasket

lips

will clear. That's OK; it won't affect operation.

It

may

not

always work

to

center

roll-out

assemblies

in

all

openings

with equal spacers on each side.

That's

especially

true

with narrow

single cabinets that only have one

pair

ofhinges.

It's

best to test things

before

permanent

mounting.

But if

you

make

a

mistake, it's

a

simple

matter to unscrew the assembly,

adjust the

spacers and remount

everything.

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

33/148

cabinets

with

center

dividers

Many two-door

cabinets

have

a

center divider

(photo

abovel,

which

cat[s

for

a

stightty

different

strategy.

You

can

stitt

buitd

rolt-outs,

but

they'1.1.

be

narrower

versions

on

each

side of

the

divider.

[Check

to be

sure

they

won't

be

so

narrow

that

they're

impracticat.)

The

key

is

to instatI

a

3/4-in. ptywood,

particl.eboard

or

MDF

panel.

between the

center

l

I4:;:;:::.-in'

startins

hores

and

cut the

openings

with

Cookware

organizer

Most

kitchen

base

cabinets

lack

vertical

storage

space

for

big, flat

cookware

like

cookie

sheets

and,

pizza

pans.

To

provide

it,

just

remove

the

lower

shelf,

cut

a vertical panel

ofplywood

and

fasten

it

at the

cabinet

bottom

with

furniture

braces

and

at the

top

with

a

strip

of wood. Drill

holes

for

the

adjusting pins

to

match

the

origi-

nal

locations

and

trim

the

shelfto

length.

iJ:ffi

:t1[T1?;::j

'*

/,, *t

ffi{#{l#/ffi

to

support

the top

ro[t-

out

position.

Center

the

pane[

on

the

back

side

and

middLe

of

the

divider

and

screw

it

into

p[ace

with

1-in.

ang[e

brackets

[they're

completety

out

of

sight).

Use

a

carpen-

ter's square

to

position

the panet

perfectty

centered

and

verticaI

on

the

cabinet

back

and

anchor

it there,

again

using

ang[e

brackets.

Measure,

buitd

and

insta[t

the

rotl-outs

as

shown.

Building

roll-outs

in

'l

f

fUount

the

wastebasket

carrier

and drawer

as

shown

in

Irf

Photos

10 and

11.

KITCHEN

CABINET

ROLL-OUTS:

COOKWARE

ORGANIZER

31

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

34/148

Customize

your

kitchen

cabinets

you have a short cabinet

flanked

by two

taller cabinets,

you can

add this combination

shelf/

wine rack.

Cut the shelf to

length, then

add

mounting strips on each

end. Cut

four

9-in. sections

of

wine

glass

molding

from

a 3-ft. length,

then

glue

and

nail

them

to

the

bottom of

the

pine

shelf.

Wine

glass

molding

is available

from Rockler

(rockler.com,

item No. 22210).

A

24-in.

length

costs

$13.

Cut curved

brackets

from

each end

bf a

lx6 maple board

and

cut the

center 1

in. wide

to

serve

as

shelf

edging.

Finally, install the

unit by driving

screws through

the

mounting

strips

and

into the cabinets

on each side.

To display

your

plates

and

keep them

accessible

and chip-free,

build

and

install

this

plate

rack.

The total

cost

of

materials

is about$15.

To create the

two

plate rack

ladders,

measure the cabinet,

then build

each lad-

der so

the finished

height

equals

the

height

of

the

inside

of

the cabinet.

The

finished

width

should be

equal

to

the

width

of

the face

frame opening.

Drill

3/8-in.

holes, 3/8 in. deep in 3/4-in.

x

3/4-in.

32

PRoJEcrs

$10

ro

$2s

Buitd a shelf

to

fit snugly between

adjacent

cabinets. Use a

jigsaw

to

create curved

brackets,

nail wine

glass

brackets

to the

bottom of the shelf, then

instatt the entire

unit as one

piece.

Cut, assemble

and install the

two

plate

rack

tadders.

Use

short screws to

secure the

tadders

in the cabinet

opening. Set

the rear ladder 4

in. away

from

the

back of the

cabinet

and the

front ladder snug

against

the

back

of the

face

frame.

square

dowels

and space

them

every

A

drill

press comes in handy, but

you

1-112 in. Cut

the dowels

to length,

add can also

get good results using a cordless

a

drop

of

glue

in each

hole,

insert

the

drill, a steady

hand and

a 3/8-in. drill

bit

dowels,

then

use

elastic cords or

clamps to

with

masking tape

wrapped around

it as a

hold things

together

until the

glue

dries.

depth

guide for the

holes

in

the

rails.

f

7/23/2019 Budget DIY 2009

35/148

lnstant

organizer

Y ;:;T[::l

j:. :

t*Tfi:::]: ,

6

ength

with

a

hacksaw

e

screws

to

the

back side

o

hold

the

racks

in

place.

The

back

side

of

the rack

simply

rests

against

the

back

of the

cabinet.

Now

you

can

easily

find your

soup

and

check

the

rest

of

your

inventory

at

a

glance.

Measuring

cup

L:*:,:f,n.*@

ing

measuring

cups inside

a kitchen

cabinet.

Position

and

mount

a wood

strip

so

that

the

cups

will

hang

between

the

shelves

and

allow

the

door

to

close

com-

pletely.

Mount

a

second

strip for

your

measuring

spoons,

then

screw

in

cup hooks

on

both

strips.

Spice

holder

If your

spices

are

jammed

into

a drawer

with

only

the

tops

visible,

this

nifty

rack

that

slips

neatly

into

the

drawer

will

solve

the problem.

And it

only

takes

an

ho