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387387

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Abbie Sevil, Agnès Lachasse, Alice Scharf, Alistair Inglis, Bethany Koch, Charlotte Toolan, Claire Brown, Dan Chen, Danielle Wolbers, Diego Coruña, Harold Fallon, Jan Ivarsson, Li Guan Tzung, Lisa Freeman, Mark de Haas, Neil Roth, Nick Kembel, Nicolas Combremont, Robin Weijer, Shui Ying Metselaar-Hou, Stu Keeton, Tan Yaling, Tony Backhouse, Veronica Matthew, Xuess Wee

WRITER THANKSPiera ChenSpecial thanks to Alvin Tse and Lee Chia-jung for much-needed support and inspiration. Gratitude also goes to Max Chang, Airey Wong, Nato and Trista, Anson Ng, Mark Hanson, Sigmund and Weihsiu, Lam Lap-wai, Eric Chan, Wen Li Tesar and Evelyn Lua for making this book much stronger than I could have made it on my own. And finally a big fat thank you to Kontau and Clio for their love and patience.

Dinah GardnerI would like to thank all the friendly Taiwanese people who helped me along the way, especially Aidan Chuang, who truly has his finger on the pulse of Taipei’s heartbeat. I am also grateful to my editor, Megan, for being so patient; and Miguel Fialho, who listened patiently day after day! Lastly I would like to thank Taiwan itself, a kind and generous host to all visitors.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Cover photograph: Temple, Kinmen, Lamia Lin/500px ©

Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

388

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

THIS BOOKThis 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Taiwan guidebook was researched and written by Piera Chen and Dinah Gardner. The previous edition was writ-ten by Robert Kelly and Chung Wah Chow. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Megan Eaves

Product Editors Carolyn Boicos, Grace DobellSenior Cartographer Julie SheridanBook Designer Gwen Cotter Assisting Editors Janet Austin, Imogen Bannister, Kate Chapman, Katie Connolly, Andrea Dobbin, Victoria Harrison, Bella LiAssisting Cartographer Alison Lyall

Cover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Cheree Broughton, Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Neill Coen, Daniel Corbett, Jane Grisman, Liz Heynes, Corey Hutchison, Andi Jones, Lauren Keith, Virginia Moreno, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Mazzy Prinsep, Angela Tinson, Dora Whitaker

389

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

13 Coffee 20818 Lords Temple 1342-28 Incident 592-28 Memorial Museum 592-28 Peace Memorial

Park 59

Aaccommodation 366-7,

381, see also individual locations

activities 20, 23-5, 31-41, 367, 34-5, see also individual activities

air travel 375, 376alcohol 46, 301Ali 281Alishan National Scenic Area

211-13, 21Ang Lee 355animals 362-4, see also

individual speciesAnping 260Antique Assam Tea Farm

233Antong Hot Springs 186Aowanda National Forest

Recreation Area 222architecture 348-50area codes 373art galleries, see museums

& art galleriesarts 353-5, see also

individual artstemples 351-2

arts centresHuashan 1914 Creative

Park 54International Pavilion of

Indigenous Arts and Cultures 68

National Taiwan Craft Research & Development Institute 58

Red House 64Taipei Performing Arts

Centre 72Ten Drum Rende Creative

Village 260-1Atayal people 130ATMs 372

BBaisha Bay 275Bali 111-12Baling 132-3Banqiao 86banyan trees 308Bao’an Temple 65-7, 350, 11bathrooms 373beaches 275

Aimen 311Beigan 298Chihli 311Chipei 310Fulong 143Green Island 319Kenting 275Kinmen 293Little Liuchiu Island 278-9Nei’an 311Penghu 308Shanshui 311Shitzuwan 245Wai’ao 144Wang’an 310

Beidawushan 282Beigan 297-8, 297Beihai Tunnel 298Beipu 153-4Beishan 293Beishan Broadcasting

Station 292Beitou 112-15, 113, 15bicycling, see cyclingBijia Shan 126birds 360, 363birdwatching 17, 111, 129,

212, 221, 222, 299Bitan 118-19

Bitou Cape 143Blue Tears 298boat tours 234, 275-6, 312boat travel 375, 376Bombing Master Handan 194books 322

birds 360culture 342hiking 37history 326, 329, 332, 337religion 347

Bopiliao 63Bowang New Village 228British Consulate

Residence at Takou 245Buddhism 344-5budget 19, 43, 366Burning of the Wang Yeh

Boats 276-7, 24bus travel 376-7bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 372butterflies 17, 362, 363, 17

Ccanals 264Caoling Historic Trail 146-7car travel 377-8, 385Cat Village 141caves

Caves of the Eight Immortals 192

Fengkuei Cave 309Five-hole Cave 314Kuanyin Cave 318Little Liuchiu Island 280Swallows Cave 317-18Water & Fire Cave 270Whale Cave 311

cell phones 373cemeteries

13th Squadron Graveyard 317

Jinbaoshan Cemetery 135Mackay Family Cemetery

109

Chaishan Nature Reserve 247

Changhua 220-3, 221Checheng 226-7Cheng Yen 174Chenggong Village 292Chiang Kai-shek 55, 73, 115,

131, 327, 332-4Chiang Kai-shek Memorial

Hall 55Chiayi 214-19, 216Chihnan National Forest

Recreation Area 184-5Chihpen 195-6children, travel with 64, 367Chimei 310Chinese Lunar New Year 341Chipei 310Chung Tai Chan Temple 231churches

Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus 281

Jinan Presbyterian Church 59

Saint Cross Church 270Ciaotou Sugar Factory 244Ciaozai Village 297Cihu 131Cijin Island 242-3Cinbi Village 297-8cinema 322, 354-5Cingjing 227-8climate 18, 23, 24, 25, 32,

360, see also individual regions

coffee 46, 96, 208, 219, 271Confucianism 343-4Confucius Temple

(Changhua) 220Confucius Temple

(Hsinchu) 152Confucius Temple (Tainan)

259Confucius Temple

(Taipei) 65conservation 364consulates 369

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

390

IND

EX C-H

convenience stores 367costs 19, 43, 366, 368County Rd 169 212County Road 199 272courses

language 77, 371credit cards 372culture 322-4, 339-42,

353-5currency 372customs regulations 367-8cycling 38-9, 376, 385

east coast 11, 169-76, 10-11

Fulong 144Hengchun Peninsula 275Hualien 171Kaohsiung 246Kenting coastal loop 275Little Kinmen 295Meinong 254Nanao 148Nanliao Harbour 152Pinglin 123Shimen Reservoir 125Sun Moon Lake 234 Taipei 80Taroko Gorge 180

DDabajianshan 161Dahan Stronghold 299dance 353, 354dangers, see safetyDasyueshan Forest

Recreation Area 210-11Daxi 146deer 223dengue fever 370Dewen 281Dihua Street 67disabilities, travellers

with 374distilleries 301diving 41

Bitou Cape 143Fulong Beach 143Green Island 319Kenting National Park

273, 275 Lanyu 315northeast coast 145Penghu 308

dolphin watching 145

Donggang 273, 276Dongju 299Dongpu 203Dongshan Coffee Rd 271Dongyanshan Forest

Recreation Area 131-2Dongyin 299drinks 46, 383, see also

coffee, teadriving 377-8, 385drumming 99Dulan 188-9Duona 256Duxing 10th Village 305

Eearthquakes 358-9east coast 49, 166-97, 167

accommodation 166climate 166, 168food 166highlights 167travel seasons 166, 168travel to/from 168travel within 168

East Rift Valley 182-7economy 322-4, 335, 336-7electricity 368Elephant Mountain 78, 28Eluanbi Lighthouse 275embassies 369Emei Lake 154emergencies 19, 37

language 383-4environmental issues

357-8, 364Erkan Village 309Ershawan Fort 135-6Ershui 230ethnicity 339-42etiquette

eating 47photography 372temples 351

events, see festivals & events

exchange rates 19

Ffeng-shui 294Fenqihu 213ferry travel 375, 376festivals & events 20, 23-5,

341, see also individual festivals & events

films 322, 354-5flowers 361Flying Fish Festival 315

Foguangshan 251-2folk medicine 370food 20-1, 42-7, 44, see

also individual locationscosts 368language 382-3

forest recreation areas, see national parks & forest recreation areas

forests 360forts 110

Anping Fort 261Dutch Fort 311East & West Fortresses

309Ershawan Fort 135-6Eternal Golden Castle

265Fort San Domingo 110Hobe Fort 107-8Iron Fort 299Iron Men’s Fort 295Warriors’ Fort 295

Fuguei Cape 134Fulong Beach 143-4Fushan Illuminated Wall

300Fusing 131-2Fuyuan Forest Recreational

Area 183-4

Ggables 294galleries, see museums &

art galleriesgay travellers 94, 368geography & geology 356-7geothermal areas 112, 254,

see also hot springsGold Ecological Park 137-8Green Island 317-20, 318Green Island Human Rights

Cultural Park 317Guandu Nature Park

112-13 Guanwu Forest

Recreation Area 159-61Guanziling 270-1Guoyeh Prismatic Basalt

309

HHakka people 58-9, 252-3,

340health 368-70Hehuanshan Forest

Recreation Area 228-9Highway 11 173, 10-11Highway 23 173Highway 24 281

hiking 14, 16, 31-3, 36-7, 15Baiyang Trail 179Beidawushan 282Bijia Shan 126Bitou Cape Trail 143Caoling Historic Trail

146-7Chaishan Nature Reserve

247Dabajianshan 161Dongju 299Elephant Mountain

78, 28Fairy Footprint 77Fu-Ba National Trail 128Green Island 319Hehuanshan 229Hemeishan 118-19Huangdi Dian 126Hushan 164internet resources 37Jia Jiu Liao Stream Trail

128-9Jiaming Lake 196Jiantan Mountain 78Jinshui Ying Old Trail

271, 273Lanyu 314, 315Lüshui-Wenshan Trail 179maps 37O’ Holy Ridge 159permits 36Pinglin 123Pingxi Crags 140safety 32Sandiaoling Waterfall

Trail 139Shuangliou Forest

Recreation Area 273Snow Mountain Main

Peak 159-61Sun Moon Lake 235 Syakaro Historic Trail 157Taipei 77, 78Taoyuan Valley Trail 147Taroko National Park

179-80Tonghou Trail 129Walami Trail 186-7Wuliao Jian 127Wuling-Quadruple 159Yangmingshan National

Park 115Yushan National Park 16,

200-3, 201, 16history 325-38

2-28 Incident 59books 326, 329, 332, 337Dutch colonial era 325-8ECFA 335

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

391IN

DEX H

-M

Japanese colonial era 329-30

Kaohsiung Incident 333Kuomintang (KMT)

331-4martial law 327post-martial law 334-6Qing dynasty 328-9White Terror period 329

hitching 378Hoklo people 339holidays 372-3hot springs 15, 22, 40

Antong 186Beitou 15, 114, 15Chihpen 196Dashan 129Green Island 319Guanziling 270-1Jiaoxi 147Lisong 196-7Nanzhuang 155Qingquan 157Seisen 272Sileng 149Tai’an 163-5, 164Taipingshan National

Forest Recreation Area 150

Taroko National Park 179Yangmingshan National

Park 115-16Hou Hsiao-hsien 354, 355Houbi 270Houtong 141-3Hsinchu 150-3, 151Hsinchu County 150-65Hualien 168-75, 170

accommodation 171-2activities 171drinking 172-3food 172medical services 175shopping 173-5sights 168-71tourist offices 175travel to/from 175travel within 175

Hualien Sugar Factory 182-3

Huangdi Dian 126Huashan 1914 Creative

Park 54Huashan Coffee

Area 219Huazhai Traditional

Settlement 312Huisun Forest Reserve 231Hujing 310

Iindigenous people &

culture 15, 68, 340, 353festivals 25

insect bites & stings 370insurance 368, 370, 378International Pavilion of

Indigenous Arts and Cultures 68

internet access 370-1internet resources

birds 360blogs 324cycling 39health 369hiking 37planning 19

Iron Fort 299islands 50, 284-320, 285,

see also individual islands

accommodation 284climate 284food 284highlights 285travel seasons 284

itineraries 26-30, 55, 26, 27, 29, 30

JJapanese B encephalitis

370Jhaishan Tunnels 292Jhushan Village 293Jia Jiu Liao Stream 129Jialeshui 275Jiaming Lake 196jiǎnniàn 351Jiantan Mountain 78Jiaoxi 147Jiji 229-30Jiji Small Rail Line 230Jilongshan 138Jingliao 270Jingtong 142Jinguashi 136-9Jinsha Village 299Jinshui Ying Old Trail 271-3Jiufen 136-9Ju Ming 134Juguang Tower 293Jyuguang Township 299

KKaohsiung 239-51, 240-1

accommodation 246-7activities 246, 247drinking 248-9

entertainment 249festivals & events 246food 247-8medical services 250shopping 249-50sights 239-46tourist offices 250travel to/from 250-1travel within 251

Kaohsiung Incident 333Kaohsiung Lion Dance

Competition 25Keelung 135-6Keelung Ghost Festival 137Kenting National Park

273-8, 274Kincheng 288-92, 290Kinmen 13, 286-95, 287, 13Koxinga 261, 327-8Kuomintang (KMT) 331-4

Llakes

Emei Lake 154Jiaming Lake 196Lake Cuifeng 149Liyu Lake 184-5Lotus Pond 243-4, 244Sun Moon Lake 16,

233-6, 234, 16Lalashan Forest Reserve

132-3land expropriation 358landslides 358-9language 380-6

courses 77, 371Lantern Festival 17, 23, 140,

306, 17Lanyang River 357Lanyu 15, 313-17, 313, 15Laomei Algal Reef 134-5Lee Teng-hui 334, 336-7legal matters 371lei cha 155lesbian travellers 94, 368Liji Badlands 189 Lin Antai Historic House

69Lin Family Mansion &

Garden 86Lintianshan 185Lisong Hot Spring 196-7literature 355, see also

booksLittle Kinmen 295Little Liuchiu Island

278-81, 279Liyu Lake 184-5Longdong 143

Longshan Temple (Lukang) 223

Longshan Temple (Taipei) 63, 21

Longshan Temple (Tamsui) 108-9

Loshan Scenic Area 187Lotus Pond 243-4, 244Lukang 223-6, 224Lunar New Year 341Luye 189-91Luzhou Lee Residence

House 86

Mmacaques 230, 247Maestro Wu 292magazines 371Makung 302-8, 304Ma-Kou Ecological Park

148 Mandarin Chinese 380-6Manyueyuan Forest

Recreation Area 125-7Maokong 116-18, 117Maolin Recreation Area

255-6maps 371markets 13, 22, see also

night marketsBreeze Farmers Market

250Jianguo Weekend Holiday

Jade Market 100Peichen Market 307Wufenpu 102Yongle Market 101 Zhongxin Market 205

martial law 327Mass Rapid Transit 378Matai’an 184Matsu 13, 295-302, 296Matsu Cultural Village 299Matsu Pilgrimage 14, 23,

214, 14measures 371medical services 369-70Meinong 252-5, 253metro travel 378Miaoli County 150-65Mid-Autumn Festival 341Ming Yuan Pharmacy 218Mingchih Forest Recreation

Area 148-9Minsheng Community 73Miyazaki, Hayao 138mobile phones 373Mona Rudao Memorial 227money 368, 372

392

IND

EX M-N

mosques 65motorcycle travel 377-8,

385mountain retreats 22mountains 356, see also

individual mountainsMRT 378Mt Lion Howitzer Station

293Mt Taiwu 293Mt Tsao Moon World 254mud volcanoes 254, 359Mugua River Gorge 184museums & art galleries

182 Art Space 2602-28 Memorial

Museum 59August 23 Artillery War

Museum 294Beitou Hot Spring

Museum 113-14Beitou Museum 113Buddha Memorial Center

251-2Changhua Arts Museum

221Chung Tai Museum 231 Chunghwa Postal

Museum 60Cihu Memorial Sculpture

Park 131Ciji Temple Museum 262Discovery Centre of

Taipei 77Fine Arts Museum 69Fogstand 169Formosa Vintage

Museum Cafe 65Grass Mountain Chateau

115Guningtou War Museum

293Ham Gallery 245Hsiaomen Geology

Museum 311Huchingtou War Museum

295Jiufen Kite Museum 138Juming Museum 134Kaohsiung Museum of

Fine Arts 240Kaohsiung Museum of

History 244-5Ketagalan Culture

Centre 113Land Bank Exhibition

Hall 54-5

Lanyang Museum 145Living Museum 305Maritime Museum 110Matsu Folklore Culture

Museum 300Meinong Hakka Culture

Museum 252-3Military Brothel

Exhibition Hall 294Miniatures Museum of

Taiwan 67-8Municipal Glass Museum

152Museum of

Contemporary Art Taipei 68-9

Museum of Drinking Water 58

Museum of World Religions 86

National 2-28 Memorial Museum 55, 58

National Museum of History 58

National Museum of Marine Biology 274

National Museum of Taiwan History 261

National Museum of Taiwanese Literature 257

National Palace Museum 12, 71-2, 73, 12

National Science & Technology Museum 243

National Taiwan Museum 59

National Taiwan Science Education Centre 73

Penghu Reclamation Hall 305-6

Prison Museum 215Puli Wine Museum &

Factory 231Puppetry Art Centre of

Taipei 73, 75Saisiyat Folklore

Museum 155Sanyi Wood Sculpture

Museum 158Shihsanhang Museum of

Archaeology 111Shuangli Wetlands Area

Centre 293Shung Ye Museum of

Formosan Aborigines 72-3

Su Ho Paper Museum 68Taipei Astronomical

Museum 73Taipei Story House 69Tea Museum 122

Togo Rural Village Art Museum 270

Wulai Atayal Museum 127Yingge Ceramics

Museum 124music 353, 354

NNanao 147-9Nangan 298-302, 300-1Nanliao Harbour 152Nanshan 293Nantian Temple 220Nantou County 226-36Nanwan 275Nanyao Temple 220Nanzhuang 154-6National Centre of

Traditional Arts 133National Palace Museum

12, 71-2, 73, 12national parks & forest

recreation areas 31, see also nature reserves

Alishan Forest Recreation Area 211-13, 21

Aowanda National Forest Recreation Area 222

Chihnan National Forest Recreation Area 184-5

Chihpen Forest Recreation Area 196

Dasyueshan Forest Recreation Area 210-11

Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Area 131-2

Fuyuan Forest Recreational Area 183-4

Guanwu Forest Recreation Area 159-61

Hehuanshan Forest Recreation Area 228-9

Huisun Forest Reserve 231

Kenting National Park 273-8, 274

Lalashan Forest Reserve 132-3

Ma-Kou Ecological Park 148

Manyueyuan Forest Recreation Area 125-7

Maolin Recreation Area 255-6

Mingchih Forest Recreation Area 148-9

Neidong Forest Recreation Area 127

Ninth National Park 312

Shei-pa National Park 158-62, 160

Shuangliou Forest Recreation Area 273

Siangyang Forest Recreation Area 197

Taijiang National Park 265

Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area 149-50

Taroko National Park 49, 166, 177-82, 178

Wuling Farm 162, 162Yangmingshan National

Park 115-16Yushan National Park

16, 49, 198, 200-3, 201, 16

National Taiwan Craft Research & Development Institute 58

nature reserves, see also national parks & forest recreation areas

Chaishan Nature Reserve 247

Guandu Nature Park 112-13

Sheding Nature Park 274Wazihwei Nature Reserve

111Wushanding Mud

Volcanoes 254, 359New 18 Lords Temple 134-5New Taipei City 122-33newspapers 371night markets 13, 22, 47,

see also marketsDongdamen Ziqiang

Night Market 172Fengjia Night Market

208Miaokou Night Market

13, 136, 13Ningxia Night Market 91Raohe Street Night

Market 92Ruifong Night Market

248Shida Night Market 89Shilin Night Market 72Tonghua Night Market

100Niushan Huting 175-6North Cross-Island Hwy

124northern Taiwan 49,

120-65, 121accommodation 120climate 120, 122

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

393IN

DEX N

-T food 120highlights 121 travel seasons 120travel to/from 122travel within 122

nuclear waste 316

OO’ Holy Ridge 159opening hours 372opera 354outdoor activities 20, 23,

25, 31-41, 367, 34-5, see also individual activities

Ppagodas, see also temples

Sokang Pagodas 311Wuntai Pagoda 293

painting 351Paper Dome 231parks & gardens

2-28 Peace Memorial Park 59

Botanical Gardens 60-1Da’an Forest Park 65Gold Ecological Park

137-8Guanyin Pavilion

Waterfront Park 305Indigenous People’s

Cultural Park 281Lin Family Mansion &

Garden 86Red Leaf Park 270Shilin Official

Residence 73Songshan Culture &

Creative Park 76-7Sun Yat-sen Memorial

Hall 77Taipei City Hakka

Cultural Park 58-9Peace Memorial Park 297Penghu 302-13, 303performing arts 354photography 372pilgrimages 14, 214, 345-6Pinglin 122-3Pingtung County 271-83Pingxi Branch Rail Line 142Pingxi District 139-41Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival

17, 140, 17Pingxi Town 142planning, see also

individual regionsbudgeting 19calendar of events 23-5

children, travel with 64, 367

internet resources 19itineraries 26-30, 26, 27,

29, 30Taiwan basics 18-19Taiwan’s regions 48-50travel seasons 18, 23,

24, 25plants 360-2Platform of the Three

Immortals 192politics 322-4, 331-8pollution 370population 322-3, 339-42postal services 372pottery 351public holidays 372-3Puli 230-2Pu-Lu Monastery 206puppetry 355Purple Butterfly Valley

255-6

QQing dynasty 328-9Qingquan 157Qionglin Village 292

Rrabies 370radio 371Red House 64religion 323, 343-7Remains of the 13 Levels

136-7Rénjiān Fójiào 345ride-sharing 378river tracing 40-1rivers 356-7Rueili 213-14Rueisui 185-6Ruigang Highway 173

Ssafety 32, 39, 373

hitching 378road 377Taroko National Park 182Wai’ao 146

Sail Rock 275Sandimen 281-3Sansia 124-7Sanyi 158, 159senior travellers 368Shanhou Folk Culture

Village 292-3Shanlinhsi 232

Sheding Nature Park 274 Shei-pa National Park

158-62, 160Shifen 142Shihmen Historical

Battlefield 272Shihting 126Shihtiping 176-7Shimen Reservoir 125Shitoushan 156-7shopping 384, see also

individual locations, markets, night markets

shrinesEarth God Shrine 253Koxinga Shrine 293Koxinga’s Shrine 261Martyr’s Shrine 169National Revolutionary

Martyrs’ Shrine 69Shuangliou Forest

Recreation Area 273Shuitou Village 292Siangyang Forest

Recreation Area 197Siouguluan Mountain 356Sitou 232Sixty Stone Mountain 183Smangus 157-8smoking 371snakes 363snorkelling 41, 275

Bitou Cape 143Green Island 319Kenting National Park

275Lanyu 315Penghu 308

Snow Mountain 159-60southern Taiwan 50,

237-83, 238accommodation 237climate 237food 237highlights 238travel seasons 237travel to/from 238travel within 238

southernmost point 275southwest coast 239-71Spring Scream 23stinky tofu 89, 44stone carving 352Sun Moon Lake 16, 233-6,

234, 16Sun Yat-sen Memorial

Hall 77surfing

Fulong Beach 143Honeymoon Bay 146

Kenting National Park 275

Wai’ao 146Swallows Cave 317-18swimming 14, 275

Kenting National Park 273, 275

Lanyu 315Mugua River Gorge 184Wai’ao 146

TTai’an Hot Springs 163-5,

164Taichung 203-10, 204Taijiang National Park 265Tainan 256-69, 258

accommodation 266-7activities 266drinking &

entertainment 268festivals & events 266food 267-8medical services 269shopping 268-9sights 257-66tourist offices 269travel to/from 269travel within 269walks 263, 263

Taipei 48, 52-119, 53, 56-7, 66-7, 74, 4, 28

accommodation 52, 80-7activities 77-8children, travel with 64climate 52Da’an 65, 77, 81-2, 88-90,

94-5, 98-9, 100-1Datong 65-70, 77-8, 84-5,

90-1, 95-7, 99, 101, 70drinking 92-8emergencies 103entertainment 98-9festivals & events 79-80food 52, 87-92highlights 53internet access 103internet resources 98itineraries 55medical services 103nightlife 92-8 orientation 102-3Shilin 70-3, 78, 85, 91, 97,

101, 76shopping 99-102sights 54-77Songshan 73-5, 85-7, 92,

97, 101-2tourist offices 103

394

IND

EX T-W

Taipei continuedtravel seasons 52travel to/from 104-5travel within 105-7walks 82-3, 83Wanhua 61-4, 81, 88,

93-4, 98, 100Ximending 61-4, 81, 88,

93-4, 98, 100, 60-1Xinyi 75-7, 78, 87, 92,

97-8, 99, 102, 78Zhongshan 65-70, 77-8,

84-5, 90-1, 95-7, 99, 101, 70

Zhongzheng 54-61, 77, 80-1, 87-8, 92-3, 98, 99, 60-1

Taipei 101 75Taipei Artist Village 59-60Taipei Grand Mosque 65Taipei World Trade Centre

77Taipingshan National

Forest Recreation Area 149-50

Taitung 191-5Taitung County 187-97Taiwanese language 380-6Tamsui 107-11, 108Tangci Village 297Tao people 314, 316Taoism 344Taroko Gorge 12, 177-8, 12Taroko National Park 49,

166, 177-82, 178taxes 372taxis 378tea 16, 22, 46, 93, 122, 154,

155, 233, 16telephone services 373temples 11, 21, 348-52

18 Lords Temple 134accommodation 367Altar of Heaven 262Anping Matsu Temple

262architecture 348-50Bao’an Temple 65-7,

350, 11Chaotian Temple 215Chingszu Temple 168Chung Tai Chan Temple

231Cijin Tianhou Temple 243City God Temple (Chiayi)

215

City God Temple (Hsinchu) 151

City God Temple (Kincheng) 289

City God Temple (Lukang) 225

City God Temple (Tainan) 259

Cixian Temple 72Ciyou Temple 75Confucius Temple

(Changhua) 220Confucius Temple

(Hsinchu) 152Confucius Temple

(Tainan) 259Confucius Temple

(Taipei) 65Daitian Temple

(Kaohsiung) 240-1Da-yi Temple 309decorative arts 351-2Donglong Temple 276Dongyue Temple 262etiquette 351Fahua Temple 262Fengtian Temple 215Foguangshan 251-2Fushan Temple 138Futian Temple 156Fuyou Temple 109Glass Matsu Temple 224Grand Matsu Temple 257Guandu Temple 112Guangshan Temple 252history 348Huakuang Tati Temple

301Kailung Temple 262King of Medicine Temple

261-2Kuanyin Pavilion 305Lady Linshui’s Temple

265Longcyuan Temple 245-6Longshan Temple

(Lukang) 223Longshan Temple

(Taipei) 63, 21Longshan Temple

(Tamsui) 108-9Luermen Matsu Temple

242Madou Temple 242Matsu Temple (Lukang)

223Matsu Temple (Makung)

304-5Matsu Temple (Nangan)

299Nankunshen Temple 242

Nanmen Matsu Temple 289

Nantian Temple 220Nanyao Temple 220New 18 Lords Temple

134-5Official God of War

Temple 260Orthodox Luermen

Matsu Temple 242Peichen Temple 306Puji Temple 112Qingshan Temple 62-3Qingshui Temple 82Sanlong Temple 280Stone Temple 246Temple to the Lords of

the Three Mountains 169

Tianhou Temple 63Tungching Temple 169Tzushr Temple 125Water Fairy Temple 265Wenwu Temple 233White Horse God Temple

300Wind God Temple 260Wufei Temple 265Xiahai City God

Temple 69Xingtian Temple 70Xuanzang Temple 233Xuejia Ciji Temple 262Yinshan Temple 107Zhenxing Temple 242Zhinan Temple 117-18Zinan Temple 232

Tianliao Moon World 265-6ticks 370Tienchi 314time 373tipping 372tofu 89, 44toilets 373Tomb of Ryukyuan Sailors

272Tomb Sweeping Day 341Tongpan 310tourist information 373-4tours 77-8, see also boat

tours, walking tourstraditional medicine 370train travel 378-9travel to/from Taiwan

375-6travel within Taiwan 376-9Treasure Hill 55trekking, see hikingTsou villages 212Tungliang Banyan Tree 308

Turtle Island 145TV 371typhoons 358-9Tzu Chi 174

Vvacations 372-3vaccinations 369Vase Rock 279vegetarian travellers 45visas 104, 374volcanoes 359volunteering 374

WWai’ao 144-6Walami Trail 186-7walking, see hikingwalking tours

Tainan 263, 263Taipei 82-3, 83

Wang’an 310water, drinking 370water sports 40-1, see also

individual sportswaterfalls

Baiyang Waterfall 179Cloud Pool Waterfall 214Golden Waterfall 137Maolin Gorge Waterfall

256Sandiaoling Waterfall

Trail 139-40Shifen Waterfall Park

140Shui Yun Waterfall 164Silver Stream Cave

Waterfall 117Wufengqi Waterfall 147Wulai Waterfall 127-8, 28Xiao Wulai Waterfall 131

Wazihwei Nature Reserve 111

weather 18, 23, 24, 25, 32, 360, see also individual regions

weaving 353websites, see internet

resourcesweights 371western Taiwan 49,

198-236, 199accommodation 198climate 198food 198highlights 199travel seasons 198travel to/from 199-200travel within 199-200

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

395IN

DEX W

-Z wetlands 357whale watching 145wildlife 360-4, see also

individual speciesWind Lions 289windsurfing 41, 308women in Taiwan 340-1women’s health 370woodcarving 159, 351,

353work 374Wulai 14, 127-31, 128

Wuling Forest Recreation Area (Wuling Farm) 162-3, 162

Wulu 196-7Wushanding Mud

Volcanoes 254, 359Wushe Incident 227Wutai 281

XXibenyuan Temple Square

64Xijju 299

Xin Yangnyu Mud Pond 254

Xindian 118-19

YYami people 314Yangmingshan National

Park 115-16Yeliu Geopark 135Yenshui Fireworks

Festival 266Yingge 123-4Yoichi Hatta 358

Yonghe 86Youfu Pavilion 309Yuli 186Yushan National Park 16,

49, 198, 200-3, 201, 16

ZZhonghe 86Zhongshan Hall 61-2Zinan Temple 232zoos 245

396

NO

TES

397N

OTES

398

NO

TES

399

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415310th edition – May 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 439 8© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSPiera ChenNorthern Taiwan, Taroko National Park & the East Coast, Yushan National Park & Western Taiwan, Southern Taiwan, Taiwan’s Islands, Plan Your Trip, Understand Taiwan, Survival Guide When not on the road, Piera divides her time between hometown Hong Kong, Taiwan and Vancouver. She has authored more than a dozen travel guides and contributed to as many travel-related titles. Piera has a BA in Literature from Pomona College. Her early life was peppered with trips to

Taiwan, China and Southeast Asia , but it was during her first trip to Europe that dawn broke. She remembers being fresh off a flight, looking around her in Rome, thinking, ‘I want to be doing this everyday.’ And she has.

Dinah GardnerTaipei Dinah is a freelance writer focusing on travel and politics. Since 2015 she has been happily based in Taiwan, one of Asia’s most charming and courteous countries. She’s lived in and written about Vietnam, Tibet, China, Hong Kong, Nepal and Bhutan.

Read more about Piera at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/pierachen

Read more about Dinah at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/dinahgardner

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’