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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Adele Hansen, Ane Zugadi, Hans Derveaux, Jonathan Salisbury, Lumir Kunovsky, Martin Willoughby-Thomas, Michael Walti, Peter Wennington, Ron Perrier, Sean McHugh, Tom Mann, Will Rogers

WRITER THANKSAnthony HamSo many people helped me along the way and brought such wisdom and insight to this book. Special thanks as always to Andy Raggett at Drive Botswana, and to Paul Funston, Lise Hansson, Luke Hunter, Charlotte Pollard, Rob Reid, Eva Meurs, Daan Smit, Jacob Tembo, Induna Mundandwe, Kasia Sliwa, Lara Good and Ying Yi Ho. At Lonely Planet, heartfelt thanks to my editor Matt Phillips – no-one knows Africa like him – and the excellent team of writers. And to Marina, Carlota and Valentina – I loved sharing some of my favourite corners of Africa with you.

Brett AtkinsonA big shukran to the following: Ben and Ollie in Taghazout, Irene in Tamraght, Jane in Tarou-dannt, Sissi and Mafhoud in Taliouine, Sadat in

Tarfaya, Houssine and Liesbeth in Tafraoute, and Sally in Mirleft. Special thanks to Neil, Jackie and the kids in Dakhla. At LP, thanks to Helen Elfer for the opportunity to explore North Africa, my fellow authors and the hardworking editors and cartos, and final thanks to Carol for holding the fort back home in New Zealand.

James BainbridgeBelieve the hype about Malawian friendliness: this really is the Warm Heart of Africa. Ziko-mo, then, to pretty much everyone for being so awesome, and in particular to the many folk, too numerous to mention, in lodges from Mzuzu to Mulanje. My research trip was con-siderably more fruitful and fun with your local knowledge and sociable bottles of Green.

Stuart ButlerFirstly I must thank my wife, Heather, and chil-dren, Jake and Grace, for their patience and understanding while I was away in Guinea and Algeria. In Guinea thanks to Patrick Madelaine for the car and Bouba for driving. Big thanks to Christelle Colin and team for a great weekend with the chimps. In Algeria I owe a huge debt of gratitude to Ahcicene from Expert Algeria as well as to the guides at the archaeological sites for their endless enthusiasm.

Jean-Bernard CarilletA huge thanks to everyone who helped out and made this trip an enlightenment, especially

Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Waleed, and all the people I met on the road. At LP I’m grateful to Matt for his trust and support, and to the hard-working editors. At home, a gros bisou to Eva and lots of love to Morgane, whose support was essential.

Paul ClammerThis was my first Morocco update job where I could commute from home, our house in the Fes medina. So, thanks above all to Robyn for her amazing restoration job, and to Monkey the accidentally adopted mosque roof cat, for not smashing ALL the glassware when I was in Tangier. On the roof, my continued salaams to petit taxi drivers everywhere who put the meter on without asking.

Lucy CorneA huge enkosi to all who shared their in-sider tips, including Heather, Ivor, Eben, Terri, Shae, Meruschka, Megan, Scott, Troye, Matt, Sean, Sal, Tanya, Elmar, Ed and Sylvia. Thanks to Matt, Dianne and Dan at LP and great big hugs to my mum and dad for becoming travelling au pairs during research. High five to Kai, the cutest little LP writer-in-training, for being awesome throughout those long road trips. And above all, this one is for Shawn – I absolutely couldn’t have done it without you.

Emilie FilouThank you to Patricia Rajeriarison, Ortana, Jean Robert, Steve McDonald, Orpheu, Patrick Andrianomena and Mad Trekking for patiently answering queries. And thanks as ever to Adolfo, for everything.

Mary FitzpatrickAsanteni sana, muito obrigada to the many people who helped me out on the road in Tanzania and Mozambique. Special thanks to Sidney Bliss for his ongoing Mozambique updates; Rafael Holt for the Tofo back-ground; staff at Ngorongoro Conservation

Area Authority; the unnamed policeman near Mwanza; and Mama Sara near Mpanda whose outlook continues to inspire. Thank you most of all to Rick, Christopher, Dominic and Gabriel for their company, patience and good humour on the road and back home.

Michael GrosbergIn Guinea-Bissau, thanks to Adlino Costa for sharing his insights about his homeland; Daniel da Silva for his good-natured help; Mario for getting me to the islands; Solange and Alain on Rubane for their hospitality and assistance when sick; and to the Swiss trav-ellers with whom I shared a beautiful Thanks-giving lunch and who picked me up when sick on the beach after hippo spotting on Orango. And my baby Rosie for her wonderful home-coming hugs. In Mauritania, my gratitude goes to Theresa Eno, Sidi Boidaha, Jimmy Baum, Adam Janssen, Isabelle and Frederic, and Betsy Freeman.

Trent HoldenFirst up thanks to Matt Phillips for commis-sioning me to go to Zimbabwe, one of my all-time favourite countires in the world, as well as all the production staff for putting this together. A huge thanks to Karl Wright and Jenny Nobes from Rhino Safari Camp for all their assistance in getting around Matusado-na and for tips and recommendations across the country – an unbelievable help! Also thanks to the following people for all their time and assistance: the team from Chilo Gorge Lodge, Joy from Victoria Falls and Gor-don Addams, Ann Bruce, Tempe, Jane, Jacqui and George from the Eastern Highlands. A huge thanks to James S once again for taking time out to go on a road trip – I had a ball! Finally lots of love to my family, especially my partner, Kate, who allows me to travel to such far-flung, exotic places.

THIS BOOKThis 14th edition of Lonely Planet’s Africa guide was written by Anthony Ham, Brett Atkinson, James Bainbridge, Stuart Butler, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Paul Clammer, Lucy Corne, Emilie Filou, Mary Fitz-patrick, Michael Grosberg, Trent Holden, Jess Lee, Stephen Lioy, Nana Luckham, Vesna Maric, Tom Masters, Virginia Maxwell, Lorna Parkes, Helen Ranger, Brendan Sainsbury,

Caroline Sieg, Helena Smith, Regis St Louis and Paul Stiles. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editors Helen Elfer, Matt PhillipsProduct Editors Carolyn Boicos, Kate ChapmanSenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtCartographers Michael Garrett, Alison LyallBook Designers Gwen Cotter, Wibowo RusliAssisting Editors Andrew

Bain, Imogen Bannister, Pete Cruttenden, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Gabrielle Innes, Jodie Martire, Charlotte Orr, Ross Taylor, Saralinda Turner, Fionnuala TwomeyCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Hannah Cartmel, Bruce Evans, Paul Harding, Indra Kilfoyle, Catherine Naghten, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Lauren O’Connell, Kirsten Rawlings, Amanda Williamson

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Jessica LeeA huge shukron to Hisham for helping me out with convoluted Cairo microbus routes, Khairy and family for their wonderful hospi-tality, Khalid for cheerful cynicism, Fatima and Said, Muhammed, Mahmoud, Rania, and Ahmed. Also a big thank you to the staff at Aswan and Luxor tourist offices.

Stephen LioyWendelin, for the company and the keen ques-tions in frustrating situations. My favourite local friend, for the long chats and positive vibes. Take that girl to Massawa! Tekeste and Sam, for the fantastic tips and honest info. BGI, for dealing in good grace with my long absences. Nan, for keeping me pumped full of coffee in my wing of the house throughout write-up.

Nana LuckhamThanks to all who helped me along the way, including Joe Addo, Aboubacar Diédhiou, Melvin Kraan, Richard at the Sleepy Hippo Hotel, Geoffrey Awoonor-Renner at Visit Sierra Leone for his invaluable advice, Fritz and Angela for their company on the road in Sierra Leone, Tapsir and Hannah for their hospitality in Freetown, Elizabeth Yirenchi, George Tenkorang and Zena Ampofo- Tenkorang for putting me up in Accra, Patrick Smith at Africa Confidential for useful pre- departure advice as always, and Yaa Yeboah and Benjamin Swift for minding the fort at home.

Vesna MaricI would like to thank Matt Phillips for commis-sioning me for the project. Additional thanks go to Pascale and Charlotte in Abidjan, Ali in Burkina Faso, and Cheryl in Grand Bassam.

Tom MastersHuge thanks to Gabriel Gatehouse, Joe Kellner, Alex Lee, Josa Glück, Nina Mason, Sean Holiday, William Clowes, Aleks Sawyer, Retha Cook, Tessa Mayouya, Adam Nkunda, Roadtrip Uganda, Central Rent-a-Car and the teams at Kivu Travel, Aruba Mara Camp, Nkuringo Gorilla Campsite and Byoona Amagara who all went beyond the expected to help out with my research. Thanks to Matt Phillips for sending me back to Africa and the entire in-house crew at Lonely Planet.

Virginia MaxwellGreatest thanks go to my travelling compan-ion, Peter Handsaker. Thanks also to Tine Riera, Marie-Christine Martinet, Mustapha Bouamara, Helen Ranger and Jess Lee.

Lorna ParkesThanks to Helen Elfer, who gave me the best excuse to travel back to one of my favourite cities. To Said at Dar Bensouda, without

whom I would have got lost in the Fez medina many more times than I did. Thanks also to Jess Stephens and Liz Campbell for their trusted insights, and to Robert Johnstone for his offerings of food. Biggest thanks of all goes to Rob, for looking after our son, Austin, and to Austin himself, for joining me on part of the adventure.

Helen RangerIn Equatorial Guinea, thanks to Ambassa-dor Crisantos Obama Ondo in Morocco who encouraged my trip to his country. In Malabo, Ángel Vañó shared his kaleidoscopic knowledge of Equatorial Guinea with great enthusiasm. To the local inhabitants who were astonished to see a tourist, thank you for a fascinating experience. May you see many more.

Brendan SainsburyThanks to all the untold bus drivers, chefs, hotel receptionists, tour guides, and inno-cent bystanders who helped me during this research.

Caroline SiegThanks to Myriam and Glenn in Cotonou for being such amazing hosts and travel buddies and for getting me sorted when my phone was stolen on Day 2. I owe you both massive beers in Munich. Special thanks to Lara for the pre-trip Liberia info and for being a voice on the phone when I most needed it. Big bisou to Lawrence for all the picnic supplies and last but not least, thanks to my Fatima for the endless supply of information and suggestions.

Helena SmithThanks for pre-trip help to Ranx, Segun, Alastair and Helen and Cordelia. In Cameroon: Caesar for excellent driving, Agatha and Ashwu in Limbe, Cyril in Buea for his kind invitation, Ismael in Foumban, Kelvin from Bamenda and Chris in Yaoundé. In Ni-geria: Bikiya, Toba, Odunola and Leke for the warmest Lagos welcome, our friends Chike and Edet at Bogobiri, Kunle and his wife at the Jazz Hole, Boma for taking us to the Shrine, Rasheed for fantastic driving, Nike and her team, Doyin for a gracious Yoruba welcome, Puja and Philip in Benin and Zac in Calabar. And to Art, for bringing a guitar and an open heart to Africa.

Regis St LouisCountless guides, drivers, boat captains, inn-keepers and many others helped along the way – and I am deeply grateful to the warm-hearted people in West Africa and Morocco. Special thanks go to Adama Ba, whose driving skills, humour and patience made the Senegambia journey a success. In Cabo Verde, thanks to Erick on Brava, Fatima on

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Fogo, Guillaume on Santo Antão, and Carolyn, Ismael and Bemvindo on Maio. In Morocco, I’m grateful to Abdel Haydar, Lahcen Igdem, Almodhik Aissa, Mohamed El Qasemy and Carolyn, Tahrbilte Rachid, Abdel Jalil, Omar and Ibrahim of Dar Sofian, Rashid and Doreen (and Jack the donkey), Ziad and Amqrane Tair (and family), Vanessa and Xavier, Toufiq Mousaoui, and Abdel Benalila and his family. Thanks to the support of Cassandra and daughters Magdalena and Genevieve, who make this whole endeavour worthwhile.

Paul StilesMy great thanks to Matt for this terrific as-signment, to Diogo and Luis for helping steer me through the country, and to the many

guides I met along the way, particularly Ar-mando, Helton, Yves, Ruben, and Ramos. No leve leve allowed! As usual, I must also thank Sarah for taking care of the home front while I was away, not to mention putting up that Sáo Tomé wood carving in the kitchen.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Detail of wristbands on Samburu woman, Keren Su/Getty ©

1104

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbeokuta 412-13Aberdare National Park 616Abidjan 240-6, 242, 244

accommodation 240-3drinking 243entertainment 243food 243shopping 245sights 240tourist offices 246travel to/within 246

Abomey 156-7Abono 330-1abseiling 900, 971Abu Simbel 95Abuja 416Abuko Nature Reserve 297accommodation 1062-3, see

also individual locationsAccra 310-18, 312-13, 316

accommodation 311-14drinking & nightlife 315entertainment 315food 314-15shopping 315sights 310tourist offices 317travel to/within 318

activities, see individual activities

Adanwomase 330Addis Ababa 579-87, 584-5

accommodation 582drinking & nightlife 583food 582-3safe travel 584-5shopping 583sights 579tourist offices 586tours 579, 582travel to/within 586-7

Addo Elephant National Park 916

adinkra 330Adjara 155Adrar, the 392Afrikaans 1089Agadir 120-1Agbodrafo 487AIDS 1039, 1083air travel 1073-4, 1075Aït Benhaddou 135-6Akagera National Park 649Aksum 589-91Akwidaa 327Albreda 299-300Alexandria 78-81, 80Algeria 52-65, 53

accommodation 52, 62climate 52embassies & consulates 62food 52, 62highlights 53history 60-1holidays 63internet access 62money 63opening hours 63safe travel 63tourist offices 64travel to/within 64-5visas 64

Algiers 53-7, 54Ambalavao 790-1Amboseli National Park

629-30Amedzofe 318-19Amharic 1088-9amoebic dysentery 1086Anakao 794Andasibe 798Aného 487Angola 498-501, 499animals 1056-60, see

also individual animalsAnomabu 320-1Antananarivo 783-7, 784-5antelope 925, 1059

Antsirabe 787-9, 788Antsiranana 796-7Arab Spring 104, 143-4Arabic 1089-91Arquipélago dos Bijagós

360-2art galleries, see galleriesarts 1043-5Arusha 686-91, 688Arusha National Park 691Asmara 567-72, 568-9, 570-1Assinie 247-8Aswan 91-4, 93Aswan High Dam 97Atakora region 157-8Atakpamé 489ATMs 1066Axim 325-6

BBafoussam 213-14Bagamoyo 679-80Baía das Agulhas 431Baka people 219Bamenda 211-13, 212Banana Islands 472Bandjoun 215-16Banfora 173-5Banjul 289-90, 290Bantu peoples

Namibia 889Swaziland 966Tanzania 703Zimbabwe 1017, 1024-5

bargaining 1063Basse Santa Su 300-1Bata 261-2bathrooms 1069Bazaruto Archipelago 845beaches 25Begrawiya 532-3Beira 845-7Benin 146-63, 147

accommodation 146, 161arts 160border crossings 163

climate 146embassies & consulates

161environment 160food 146, 160highlights 147history 159holidays 161-2internet access 161money 161opening hours 161safe travel 161tourist offices 162travel to/within 162-3visas 162

Benin City 414-15Bertoua 218Betamaribé people 160bicycle travel, see cyclingbilharzia 1082Bioko Island 256-60birdwatching 1060

Botswana 748Gabon 281Gambia, The 289, 298,

299Madagascar 790Malawi 816, 830Mozambique 854Namibia 862, 873Rwanda 650Senegal 454South Africa 899, 944Swaziland 961, 962, 963,

964, 965Tanzania 694, 699Uganda 724, 725, 726,

727, 731Zambia 993-4, 995-6Zimbabwe 1014, 1018,

1022Bissau 357-60, 358Biya, Paul 219-20black market 1066Blantyre 824-7, 826Bloemfontein 928-9Bo 475


1105IN

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-C Boa Vista 191-3boat travel 1074, 1076Bobo-Dioulasso 170-3, 172Boko Haram 420Bokong Nature Reserve

774Bolgatanga 333-4books 1030, 1041, 1043

health 1081history 1032, 1034, 1035,

1036border crossings 1074, see

also individual countriesBossou 350Botswana 740-66, 742-3

accommodation 740, 763

activities 763climate 740culture 762embassies 763-4environment 762food 740highlights 742history 761-2money 764safe travel 764tourist offices 765travel to/within 766visas 765-6

Brandburg, the 875Brazzaville 227-31, 228-9Bridal Veil Falls 1016Brufut 298-9Buchanan 374-5budget 21Buea 208-9Buffalo Springs National

Reserve 617Bukavu 516-18Bukoba 696-7Bulawayo 1018-21, 1019Bunce Island 473bungee jumping 971Burkina Faso 164-81, 166-7

accommodation 164, 179arts 178border crossings 180-1climate 164embassies & consulates

179environment 178-9food 164, 178highlights 166-7history 177-8holidays 180internet access 179money 179-80 opening hours 180safe travel 179

tourist offices 180travel to/within 180-1

Burundi 550-3, 551bus travel 1078bush taxis 163, 181, 355,

380, 397, 807 bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 1067, see

also individual countriesBusua 326-7Butre 326Bwabwata National Park

873-4Bwindi Impenetrable

National Park 727-8

CCabo Verde 182-96, 183

accommodation 182, 195climate 182culture 194embassies & consulates

195food 182, 194-5highlights 183history 193-4holidays 195-6internet access 195money 195opening hours 195safe travel 195tourist offices 196travel to/within 196visas 196

Cairo 67-77, 70-1, 74-5accommodation 72activities 72drinking & nightlife 73food 72-3medical services 76safe travel 76shopping 76sights 67-71tourist offices 76travel to/from 76-7

Calabar 415Cameroon 197-224, 198-9

accommodation 197, 221arts 220border crossings 224climate 197culture 220embassies & consulates

221-2environment 221food 197highlights 198-9history 218-20holidays 223internet access 222

money 222opening hours 223safe travel 221tourist offices 223travel to/within 223-4visas 223

Campo 217canoeing 757, 758, 971Cão Grande 428Cap Skirring 457-60Cape Coast 321-3, 322Cape Cross Seal Reserve

878Cape Maclear 820-2Cape of Good Hope 899Cape Three Points 327Cape Town 16, 898-910,

900-1, 904-5, 16accommodation 902-3activities 900-2drinking & nightlife

907-8festivals & events 908food 903-7medical services 909shopping 908-9sights 898-9tourist offices 909travel to/within 909-10

Caprivi Strip, the 873-4car travel 1076-8Casablanca 116-19, 118Casamance 455-60, 458Casbah, Algeria 55castles

Cape Coast Castle 17, 321, 17

Royal Enclosure, Gonder 587

St George’s Castle 324cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCederberg Wilderness

Area 918cell phones 1068Central African Republic

502-5, 503Central Kalahari Game

Reserve 759-60Chã das Caldeiras

190-1Chad 506-9, 507Chaouwara Tanneries 122cheetahs 1058

South Africa 943-4, 947Zambia 995-6, 996

Chefchaouen 111-12, 112children, travel with 1063Chilojo Cliffs 1018Chimanimani 1016

Chimanimani Mountains 847

Chimanimani National Park 1016-17

Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage 1000

Chimoio 847chimpanzees 1057

Congo, Republic of 234-5Côte d’Ivoire 350Democratic Republic of

Congo 519Gabon 278-9, 281Sierra Leone 471South Africa 942Tanzania 698Uganda 717-18, 724, 731Zambia 1000

Chinese influence in Africa 1037

Chingola 999-1000Chobe National Park

749-51cholera 1082churches & cathedrals

Basilica (Yamoussoukro) 249

Catedrál de Santa Isabel 256

Cathedral de Notre Dame (Cotonou) 148

Cathedral of St Peter 819Cathedrale St Paul 240Christuskirche

(Windhoek) 862Debre Berhan Selassie

587Felsenkirche 887First United Methodist

Church (Monrovia) 371Lalibela 12, 593-5, 12Livingstonia Church 815Nôtre Dame Cathedral

(Yaoundé) 200Ntarama Church 644Nyamata Church 644Rock-Hewn Churches of

Tigray 591-3Sagrada Familia Church

(Basakoto) 260St George Cathedral &

Museum 579St Mary of Zion Churches

Complex 590St Michael and All Angels

Church 824-5Chutes du Zongo 517climate 20, 28-32, see also

individual countriesclimate change 1053Cogo 263Colossi of Memnon 89

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Conakry 342-6, 344Congo, Republic of 225-38,

226accommodation 225, 236climate 225culture 236embassies 237 food 225highlights 226history 235-6money 237safe travel 236tourist offices 237 travel to/within 237-8

Constantine 57-9consulates 1065, see also

individual countriescosts 21Côte d’Ivoire 239-54, 241

accommodation 239, 252activities 252climate 239embassies & consulates

252environment 252food 239highlights 241history 251holidays 253internet access 253money 253opening hours 253safe travel 252tourist offices 254travel to/within 254

Cotonou 148-51, 150-1crafts 1045credit cards 1066-7Creek Town 416Crescent Island 611Cuamba 850culture 1038-45, see also

individual countriescurrency 20, 1067customs regulations 1063cycling 1075

Lesotho 776Madagascar 787-8South Africa 938Swaziland 961, 963Uganda 728

DDaan Viljoen Game Park

862Dafra 174

Dahab 81-3Dahshur 77-8Dakar 13, 437-48, 440,

442-3, 444-5, 13accommodation 441-3activities 437drinking & nightlife 445entertainment 445-6festivals & events 441food 443-5medical services 446safe travel 446shopping 446sights 437tours 437, 441travel to/within 447-8

Dakhla 121Dalaba 347-8Damaraland 874-7Danakil Depression 588dangers, see safetyDapaong 491Dar es Salaam 662-7, 664,

666Deadvlei 883Democratic Republic of

Congo 510-24, 512-13accommodation 510, 522climate 510embassies & consulates

522food 510, 522highlights 512-13history 520-1holidays 523internet access 522money 522opening hours 523safe travel 523tourist offices 523travel to/within 524visas 523-4

dengue fever 1082deserts 1050Devil’s Pool 974diamonds 477diarrhoea 1086-7Diego Suarez 796-7Diosso Gorge 231diptheria 1082disabilities, travellers with

1069diving & snorkelling 1050

Djibouti 557Egypt 82, 83, 86Kenya 626, 628Madagascar 800Malawi 818, 821Mozambique 843, 844,

845, 851

São Tomé 424, 428, 430Senegal 437South Africa 902, 916Sudan 538Tanzania 669, 677Zambia 998

Djemaa el-Fna 130-1Djemila 58Djibouti 554-65, 555


climate 554embassies 563-4food 554highlights 555money 564safe travel 564tourist offices 565 history 562-3travel to/within 565visas 565

Djibouti City 555-60, 556, 558

Dongola 535Douala 205-8, 206-7Drâa Valley 134-5Drakensberg 926-8drinking 45driving 1076-8Dungur (Queen of

Sheba’s) Palace 590Durban 919-23, 920-1dysentery, amoebic 1086

EEbodjé 218Ebola 351, 1082Ebolowa 217economy 1031Egypt 66-99, 68-9

accommodation 66, 97climate 66embassies &

consulates 97food 66, 97highlights 68-9history 96holidays 98internet access 98money 98opening hours 98tourist offices 98travel to/within 99visas 98-9

electricity 1064Elephantine Island 92elephants 1056

Botswana 748-9Congo, Republic of 234-5

Gabon 278-80, 281, 282Kenya 603, 629Malawi 822, 830South Africa 916, 924-5Swaziland 963Tanzania 691, 699, 700Uganda 726, 733Zambia 988, 993-4,

995-6Zimbabwe 1014, 1015,

1018, 1022Elmina 324embassies 1065, see

also individual countriesemergencies 1065Entebbe 717-18environmental issues 1051,

1052, 1053-5Equatorial Guinea 255-68,

257accommodation 255, 266climate 255embassies & consulates

266environment 266food 255highlights 257history 265holidays 267internet access 267money 267opening hours 267safe travel 266tourist offices 268tourist permits 267travel to/within 268visas 268

Erg Chebbi 136Erg Chigaga 134Erindi Private Game

Reserve 867-8Eritrea 566-77, 567

accommodation 566, 576climate 566embassies & consulates

576food 566highlights 567history 575money 576safe travel 576tourist offices 577travel permits 577travel to/within 577visas 577

Erongo Mountains 867Eshowe 924Essaouira 119-20Ethiopia 578-601, 580-1

accommodation 578, 599climate 578


1107IN

DEX E-G

culture 598-9embassies & consulates

599food 578, 599highlights 580-1history 597-8money 600safe travel 600 travel to/within 601visas 601

etiquette 23, 43, 1058Etosha National Park 14,

870-2, 871, 14events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 21Ezulwini Valley 959-60

FFadiout 450female genital mutilation

1043Fernan Vaz Lagoon 277-8festivals & events 28-32,

1044Amakula International

Film Festival 709Ashanti Festivals 32Atlantic Music Expo 184Bolgatanga

International Crafts & Arts Fair 333

Buganu (Marula) Festival 28

Calabar Festival 415Cape Town Carnival 908Cape Town Festival of

Beer 908Cape Town International

Jazz Festival 908Cape Town Minstrel

Carnival 28, 908Carnaval 29, 357Dak’Art Biennale 441Evala 490Fès Festival of World

Sacred Music 125Fespaco 29, 165Festival Azgo 835Festival des Divinités

Noires 487Festival of the Dhow

Countries 31Fête de l’Abissa 246Fête des Masques 171Gamboa Music Festival

184Gnaoua and World Music

Festival 119Hermanus Whale

Festival 32

HIFA - Harare International Festival of Arts 1007

Igue Festival 414Jazz à Ouaga 165Kampala City Festival

709Kigali Up 641Kilimanjaro Marathon 30Kirstenbosch Summer

Sunset Concerts 908Lake of Stars Music

Festival 830Les Fanals 453Maitisong Festival 741Marathon des Sables 30Mardi Gras (Mindelo) 187Marrabenta Festival 835Marrakech Biennale 132Maulid Festival 32Mbapira/Enjando Street

Festival 862Meskel 587Mother City Queer

Project 908Moussem of Moulay

Idriss II 125-6Moussem of Sidi ben

Aïssa 128Nguon tribal festival 215Odwira festival 328-9Oktoberfest, Windhoek

862Osun Festival 414Panafest 31Rwanda Film Festival 641Saint-Louis Jazz Festival

30, 453Sauti za Busara 669SIAO 165Sierra Leone Marathon

473Tabaski 215Timkat 28, 587Umhlanga Reed Dance

Festival 961Voodoo Day 154Voodoo Festival 28Windhoek Karneval

(WIKA) 862Zanzibar International

Film Festival 669Fez 122-7, 123, 124-5Fianarantsoa 789-90filariasis 1082-3films 1030, 1044, 1045Fish River Canyon 885Fogo 189-91food 42-5, see also

individual locationsfootball 1040-1forests 1050

Fort Portal 722-3forts

Cape Coast Castle 17, 321, 17

Fort Jesus 622Fort of São Sebastião

849Fort San Antonio 325Fort William 321Ksar Aït Benhaddou 135Maputo Fort 835Old Fort (Zanzibar Town)

669St George’s Castle 324

Foumban 214-15Fouta Djalon 346-9Francistown 746-7Franschhoek 911Free State 928-9Freetown 465-71, 466-7,

468Freetown Peninsula 471-3French language 1091-3

GGabon 269-86, 270


284environment 284food 269, 284highlights 270history 282-3money 285safe travel 284tourist offices 285 travel to/within 286visas 285

Gaborone 741-6, 744, 745Gaborone Game Reserve 741galleries, see also museums

African Artists’ Foundation 403

Centre d’Exposi-tion Artisanal de N’zérékoré 349

Centro de Artes e Cultura (Boa Vista) 191

Dja’r Fogo 189Espace Doual’art 205Fondation Zinsou 148Galerie Cécile Fakhoury

240Inema Art Center 641Jimoh Buraimoh’s

African Heritage Gallery 414

Johannesburg Art Gallery 930

National Art Gallery (Bulawayo) 1020

National Gallery of Zimbabwe 1007

Nick Amon’s Art Gallery 246

Nike Art Gallery 403Sakura Arts Studio 291Terra Kulture 403Wide Open Walls 298

Gambia, The 287-306, 288accommodation 287, 303arts 303climate 287culture 303 embassies & consulates

304environment 303food 287highlights 288history 302-3holidays 305internet access 304money 304-5opening hours 305safe travel 303-4tourist offices 305 travel to/within 305-6visas 305

game reserves, see national parks & nature reserves, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

Ganvié 153Gaoua 175Garden Route National

Park (Tsitsikamma Section) 914

gardens, see parks & gardens

Gauteng 930-41gay travellers 1066Gederef 539geography & geology

1049-52Ghana 307-40, 308-9

accommodation 307, 337arts 336border crossings 339climate 307culture 336embassies & consulates

337food 307, 337highlights 308-9history 335-6holidays 338internet access 338money 338opening hours 338safe travel 337

1108

IND

EX G-K

Ghana continuedtourist offices 338travel to/within 339-40visas 339

Ghardaïa 60giraffes 1059

Kenya 603South Africa 924-5,

943-4Zambia 988, 993-4

Gisenyi 646Giza pyramids 11, 67, 11Goda Mountains 562Gola Rainforest National

Park 476golden monkeys 647Goma 518-19Gombe National Park 698Gonarezhou National Park

1018Gonder 587-9gorillas 15, 1056-7, 15

Congo, Republic of 232, 233, 234-5

Democratic Republic of Congo 519

Gabon 277, 278, 281, 282Rwanda 647Uganda 727-8, 730

Gorongosa National Park 846

Grand Bassam 246-7, 247Grand Erg Occidental 59Grand Popo 155-6Graskop 943Great Limpopo

Transfrontier Park 1018Great Reef, the 792-4Great Rift Valley 611, 613,

1049Great Zimbabwe 1017-18Guinea 341-55, 343

accommodation 341, 352border crossings 354climate 341embassies & consulates

352food 341, 352highlights 343history 351holidays 353internet access 353money 353safe travel 352tourist offices 353travel to/within 354-5visas 354

Guinea-Bissau 356-67, 357 accommodation 356,

365arts 364border crossings 367climate 356electricity 366embassies & consulates

365food 356highlights 357history 363-4holidays 366internet access 365money 365-6opening hours 366safe travel 365tourist offices 366travel to/within 367visas 367

Gulu 732-3Gunjur 299

HHarar 595-7Harare 1007-13, 1008-9,

1010Harper 376Hartmann’s Valley 878Hausa 1093-4health 1080-7heat exhaustion 1087Hell’s Gate National Park

612hepatitis A & B 1083hiking 27

Burkina Faso 175Cabo Verde 184, 189Cameroon 209Côte d’Ivoire 250 Ethiopia 589Guinea 348 Kenya 614, 620Lesotho 774-5Liberia 375 Madagascar 789Malawi 828Namibia 869, 885São Tomé & Príncipe

428, 429, 430, 432 South Africa 901-2, 914, 924, 927, 928

Swaziland 963Tanzania 683, 686-7,

689Togo 489 Uganda 721, 722, 726Victoria Falls 971Zimbabwe 1016-17

Hippo Regius 58

hippos 1059Gabon 276, 278Ghana 334Malawi 822, 830Swaziland 963Uganda 725, 726, 731Zambia 993-4Zimbabwe 1015

history 1032-7hitching 1078HIV 1039, 1083Hlane Royal National Park

963-4Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park

924-5Hogsback 917-18holidays 1068Hurghada 86-7Huye (Butare) 648-9Hwange National Park

1022-3hyenas 596, 947

IIbadan 413Île de Gorée 448-9Île de N’Gor 437Île Sainte Marie 800-2, 801Îles de Los 346Ilha da Bubaque 360-1Ilha de Bolama 360Ilha de Orango 361Ilha de Rubane 362Ilha João Vieira 362Ilhéu das Rolas 429-30Ilhéu de Santana 428immigration 1073immunisations 1080-1Incwala 960Inhambane 842-3insect bites 1087insurance 1065, 1078, 1080internet access 1041-2, 1065internet resources

health 1081music 1048news 1042planning 21

Iron-Ore Train 390iSimangaliso Wetland Park

925-6Isiolo 616-17Isla Corisco 263-4itineraries 33-8Ivindo National Park 281-2

JJambiani 678Janjanbureh 300

Jeffrey’s Bay 915-16Jinja 719-20, 720Joal 450Johannesburg 930-7,

932-3, 936-7Jozani-Chwaka National

Park 668Juffureh 299-300

KKabale 728-9Kafue National Park 995-6Kakamega Forest 619-20Kalahari, the 14, 759-60, 14Kampala 709-17, 713,

714-15Kaokoveld, the 877-8Kara 490Kariba 1013-14Karima 535-6Karnak 87Karonga 814-15Kasama 997-8Kasese 725Kassala 536-7Katonga 697Katse Dam 775kayaking 901, 971Kendwa 677kente cloth 330, 336Kenya 602-38, 604-5

accommodation 602, 633-4

climate 602culture 633embassies & consulates

634-5 food 602, 633highlights 604-5history 631-2money 635safe travel 634travel to/within 636-8visas 635-6

Kérékou, Colonel Mathieu 159

Keren 572Kerma 534-5Kgalagadi Transfrontier

Park 947Khama Rhino Sanctuary

746Khami Ruins 1020Khartoum 526-32, 528-9,

530-1Khaudum National Park

873Kibale Forest National

Park 724Kibidwé 171


1109IN

DEX K

-M

Kibirizi 697Kibuye 646Kidepo Valley National

Park 733Kigali 640-5, 642-3Kigoma 697-8Kimberley 945-6Kinshasa 511-16, 514-15Kisoro 729-30Kissidougou 349Kisumu 619kitesurfing 677, 844Kitwe 999Knysna 912-13Kokrobite 320Kolmanskop 888Koro 171, 174Koumi 171Koutammakou 490-1Kpalimé 487-9Kribi 216-17Krio people 474Kruger National Park 943-5Kubu Island 748Kumasi 327-30, 328Kunta Kinteh Island

299-300Kuti, Fela 407KwaZulu-Natal 919-28

LLa Mare aux Poissons

Sacrés 174Lac Abbé 561Lac Assal 560Lac Télé 235Lac Togo 487Lagoa Amelia 430Lagos 403-12, 406, 408-9,

410-11accommodation 403, 406drinking & nightlife

407-8entertainment 408-9food 406-7medical services 411 shopping 409sights 403travel to/within 412

Lake Ahémé 156Lake Bosumtwe 330-1Lake Bunyonyi 729Lake Chad 1051Lake Kasenda 723Lake Kivu 646Lake Malawi National Park

16, 820, 17Lake Manyara National

Park 692-3Lake Naivasha 611-12

Lake Nakuru National Park 613

Lake Niassa 850-1Lake Nkuruba 723Lake Nyabikere 723Lake Nyinabulitwa 723-4Lake Nyinambuga 724Lake Tanganyika (Tanzania)

697-9Lake Tanganyika (Zambia)

998Lake Turkana 618Lake Victoria (Kenya) 618-19Lake Victoria (Tanzania)

694-7Lalibela 12, 593-5, 12Lambaréné 280-1languages 1088-99Larabanga 333legal matters 1066le-Ife 414leishmaniasis 1083lemurs 1060leopards 1057

South Africa 916, 924-5Zambia 993-4, 995-6

leptospirosis 1083lesbian travellers 1066Lésio Louna Gorilla

Reserve 232Lesotho 767-80, 768-9


779environment 778-9food 767highlights 768-9history 777-8money 779tourist offices 780 travel to/within 780visas 780

LGBTIQ travellers 1066Liberia 368-80, 369


arts 378border crossings 380climate 368culture 377embassies & consulates

378environment 378food 368, 379highlights 369history 377holidays 379internet access 379

money 379opening hours 379safe travel 378tourist offices 380travel to/within 380visas 380

Libreville 271-5, 272-3Libya 100-4, 102-3Likoma Island 16, 819Lilongwe 810-14, 812-13Limbe (Malawai) 824-7Limbe (Cameroon) 209-11,

210lions 1057

Botswana 760Malawi 830Namibia 873South Africa 916, 924-5,

943-4, 947Tanzania 692, 694Uganda 725, 726, 733Zambia 995-6, 996Zimbabwe 1014, 1015

Liphofung Cave Cultural & Historical Site 773

literature 1044-5Liuwa Plain National Park

996Livingstone 974-9, 976Livingstone, David 521,

679, 702, 829, 974Livingstonia 815Liwonde 822Liwonde National Park

822-3Liwonde Rhino Sanctuary

823Loango National Park 18,

278-9, 18Lobamba 960-1Lobi people 176Lomé 482-6, 484Lopé National Park 281Lower Omo Valley 596Lower Zambezi National

Park 994-5Loyangalani 618Luba 260Lüderitz 886-7, 886Lusaka 988-93, 990-1Lusaka National Park 988Lushoto 682Luxor 87-91, 88-9

MMadagascar 781-807, 782

accommodation 781, 804activities 804 climate 781culture 803-4

embassies & consulates 804-5

environment 804food 781highlights 782history 802-3money 805 safe travel 805-6tourist offices 805 travel to/within 806-7visas 806

magazines 1042Mahale Mountains National

Park 698-9Mandela, Nelson 898, 938,

947-8, 949Majete Wildlife Reserve

828-9Makasutu Culture Forest

297-8Makeni 473-4Makgadikgadi Pans

National Park 748-9Malabo 256-60, 258Malagasy 1094malaria 1083-5Malawi 808-33, 809


activities 830arts 830 climate 808culture 830embassies &

consulates 830-1environment 830food 808highlights 809history 829money 831tourist offices 832 travel to/within 832-3visas 832

Malealea 775-6Mali 381-4, 383Malindi 626-8Malindi Marine National

Park 626Malindidzimu Hill 1022Mali-Yemberem 348-9Malolotja Nature Reserve

962-3Mamou 346-7Man 249-50Mana Pools National Park

1014-15Manchewe Falls 815Mantenga Cultural Village

& Nature Reserve 959Manzini 962maps 1066

1110

IND

EX M- M

Maputo 835-42, 838-9Marangu 685Marburg 1082Mardi Gras (Mindelo) 187Marrakesh 12, 129-34,

130-1, 12Marsabit 617-18Marshall 373-4Masai Mara National

Reserve 15, 620-2, 15Maseru 770-2, 770-1Massawa 573-5, 574Mastaba of Ti 77Matobo National Park

1021-2Maun 751-6, 754Mauritania 385-97, 387


arts 393-4climate 385culture 393embassies & consulates

394environment 394food 385, 395highlights 387history 393holidays 395-6internet access 395money 395opening hours 395safe travel 394, 395tourist offices 396travel to/within 396-7visas 396

Mayumba National Park 279-80

Mbabane 957-8, 958Mbale 720-1Mbombela 942-3Mbour 449-50media 1041-2medical services 1081-2,

see also individual locations

Medinat Habu 87Meknès 127-9, 128Memphis 77-8meningococcal meningitis

1085Meroe 532-3Merzouga 136Mgahinga Gorilla National

Park 730M’hamid 134

Mikindani 701-2Mindelo 186-9Missirah 450-1Mkhaya Game Reserve

964-5Mlawula Nature Reserve

964Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary

961-2mobile phones 1068Mognori Eco Village 332Moka 260mokoro canoeing 757, 758Mole National Park 332-3Mombasa 622-6, 623, 624money 1066-7, see also

individual countriesMonkey Bay 820monkeys, golden 647 Monrovia 369-73, 370-1Monte Alen National Park

264Moremi Game Reserve 759Morija 772Morocco 105-40, 106-7

accommodation 105, 138activities 138 climate 105culture 137 embassies & consulates

138food 105, 138highlights 106-7history 137holidays 139internet access 139money 139opening hours 139safe travel 138tourist offices 139travel to/within 140visas 139-40

Moshi 683-5, 684Mosi-oa-Tunya National

Park 974, 982mosques

Al-Azhar Mosque 67Grande Mosquée 171Hassan II Mosque 117Kairaouine Mosque &

University 122Khatmiyah Mosque 537Koutoubia Mosque 131-2Mosque-Madrassa of

Sultan Hassan 67National Mosque

(Kampala) 709motorcycle travel 1076-8Mozambique 834-58, 836-7

accommodation 834, 854activities 854

border crossings 856-7 climate 834culture 854embassies & consulates

855food 834, 854highlights 836-7history 853money 855 safe travel 845, 854-5travel to/within 856-8visas 856

Mozambique Island 12, 849-50, 12

Mpumalanga 941-3Mt Agou 489Mt Bintumani 474Mt Elgon National Park 721Mt Kenya National Park

613-15, 615Mt Kilimanjaro 685-7, 26Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 685-6Mt Klouto 489Mt Meru 691Mt Mulanje 827-8Mt Nimba 375Mtwara 701Mua 820Murchison Falls National

Park 731-2, 732Musanze (Ruhengeri)

645-7Musawarat es-Suffra 533museums, see also

galleries, slavery memorials & museums

Alexandria National Museum 78

Apartheid Museum 930Bandjoun Station 216Bardo Museum of

Prehistory & Ethnography 55

Beit el-Sahel 669Bibliotheca Alexandrina

78Big Hole 945Bulawayo Railway

Museum 1019Calabar Museum 415Casa da Memoria 189Centre d’Art Acrobatique

Keita Fodeba 342Chamare Museum 820Copperbelt Museum 999Coptic Museum 67, 71Cultural & Museum

Centre Karonga 814Cultural Village,

Thaba-Bosiu 773District Six Museum 898

Egyptian Museum 67Elsamere 611Ethnographical Museum

(Khartoum) 527Ethnological Museum

(Addis Ababa) 579Fort Jesus 622Great Zimbabwe

Museum 1017Hector Pieterson

Museum 938IFAN Historical Museum

448Imhotep Museum 77Independence Memorial

Museum 862Kalakuta Republic

Museum 403Karen Blixen’s House &

Museum 603Kerma Museum 535Lusaka National Museum

988Luxor Museum 87Mandela House Museum

938Masitise Cave House

Museum 776Morija Museum 772Moroccan Jewish

Museum 117Musée Andafivaratra 783Musée d’Art Camerounais

200Musée de la Blackitude

200Musée de la Musique 165Musée de Poni 175Musée d’Histoire de

Ouidah 154Musée Ethnographique

de Porto Novo 153Musée Historique

d’Abomey 157Musée Honmé 153Musée National

(Abidjan) 240Musée National

(Conakry) 342Musée National

(Yaoundé) 200Musée National de

Kinshasa 511Musée Nationale des

Arts et Traditions du Gabon 271

Musée Théodore Monod 437

Museu do Mar 187Museum of Malawi 824National Art Museum

(Maputo) 835National Cultural Centre

(Kumasi) 328


1111IN

DEX M

-N

National Museum (Accra) 310

National Museum (Addis Ababa) 579

National Museum (Benin City) 414

National Museum (Khartoum) 527

National Museum (Lobamba) 960-1

National Museum (Nairobi) 603

National Museum (Ouagadougou) 165

National Museum & House of Culture (Dar es Salaam 662

National Museum Cirta 58

National Museum of Albreda 300

National Museum of Antiquities (Algiers) 55

National Museum of Namibia 862

National Museum of Rwanda 648

National Railway Museum 466

Natural History Museum (Bulawayo) 1019-20

Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts 122

Nubia Museum 92Prempeh II Jubilee

Museum 327‘Red Terror’ Martyrs

Memorial Museum 579Sala-Museu Amilcar

Cabral 184Schweitzer Hospital

Museum 280Sierra Leone National

Museum 467Stone House Museum

815Swakopmund Museum

879Tangier American

Legation Museum 109Tanji Village Museum

298Tipaza Museum 56Uganda Museum 709Urithi Tanga Museum

681Zanzibar National

Museum of History & Culture 669

Zinzou Foundation Museum 154

music 25-6, 407, 1046-8Mutare 1015-16

Mwanza 695-6Mzuzu 817

NNa’ama Bay 83-5Nairobi 603-11, 608-9Nairobi National Park 603Nakuru 612-13Namibia 859-94, 860-1

accommodation 859, 891activities 891 climate 859culture 891 embassies & consulates

891-2environment 891food 859highlights 860-1history 888-91money 892safe travel 892-3tourist offices 893 travel to/within 893-4visas 893

Namib-Naukluft Park 882-5NamibRand Nature

Reserve 884-5Nampula 848-9Naqa 533Naro Moru 615-16national parks & nature

reserves 1052-3, see also wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

Aberdare National Park 616

Abuko Nature Reserve 297Addo Elephant National

Park 916Akagera National Park

649Amboseli National Park

629-30Arusha National Park 691Baobolong Wetland

Reserve 300Bazaruto National Park

845Bokong Nature Reserve

774Budongo Forest Reserve

731Buffalo Springs National

Reserve 617Bwabwata National Park

873-4Bwindi Impenetrable

National Park 727-8Cederberg Wilderness

Area 918Chimanimani National

Park 1016-17

Chobe National Park 749-51

Crescent Island 611Etosha National Park 14,

870-2, 871, 14Garden Route National

Park (Tsitsikamma Section) 914

Gola Rainforest National Park 476

Gombe National Park 698

Gonarezhou National Park 1018

Gorongosa National Park 846

Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park 1018

Hell’s Gate National Park 612

Hlane Royal National Park 963-4

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park 924-5

Hwange National Park 1022-3

iSimangaliso Wetland Park 925-6

Ivindo National Park 281-2Jozani-Chwaka National

Park 668Kafue National Park

995-6Kakamega Forest 619-20Kakum National Park

323Kgalagadi Transfrontier

Park 947Khaudum National

Park 873Kiang West National

Park 300Kibale Forest National

Park 724Kidepo Valley National

Park 733Kruger National Park

943-5Lake Malawi National

Park 16, 820, 17Lake Manyara National

Park 692-3Lake Nakuru National

Park 613Liuwa Plain National

Park 996Liwonde National Park

822-3Loango National Park 18,

278-9, 18Lopé National Park 281Lower Zambezi National

Park 994-5

Lusaka National Park 988

Mahale Mountains National Park 698-9

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park 748-9

Malindi Marine National Park 626

Malolotja Nature Reserve 962-3

Mana Pools National Park 1014-15

Mantenga Cultural Village & Nature Reserve 959

Masai Mara National Reserve 15, 620-2, 15

Matobo National Park 1021-2

Mayumba National Park 279-80

Mefou National Park 200Mgahinga Gorilla

National Park 730Mlawula Nature Reserve

964Mole National Park

332-3Monte Alen National

Park 264Mosi-oa-Tunya National

Park 974, 982Mt Elgon National

Park 721Mt Kenya National Park

613-15, 615Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 685-6Murchison Falls National

Park 731-2, 732Nairobi National Park

603Namib-Naukluft Park

882-5NamibRand Nature

Reserve 884-5Ndere Island National

Park 619Ngorongoro

Conservation Area 693Nkasa Rupara National

Park 874Nkhotakota Wildlife

Reserve 821Nxai Pans National Park

748-9Nyika National Park 816Nyungwe Forest National

Park 650Okonjima Nature

Reserve 868-9Outamba-Kilimi National

Park 474-5Palmwag Concession

876-7

1112

IND

EX N-P

national parks & nature reserves continued

Parc National Analamazaotra 797

Parc National Andasibe Mantadia 797

Parc National d’Andringitra 16, 791, 16

Parc National de Campo-Ma’an 217

Parc National de Fazao-Malfakassa 491

Parc National de l’Isalo 792

Parc National de Kahuzi-Biéga 517

Parc National de la Langue de Barbarie 452

Parc National de la Pendjari 158

Parc National de Mantadia 797

Parc National de Niokolo-Koba 455

Parc National de Ranomafana 790

Parc National de Taï 250Parc National des

Oiseaux du Djoudj 454Parc National des

Virunga 519-20Parc National Diawling

391Parc National d’Odzala

233Parc National du Banc

d’Arguin 392Parc National du Delta

du Saloum 450Parc National du Haut

Niger 350-1Parc National Lokobe

794, 796Parc National

Nouabalé-Ndoki 234-5Parque Nacional das

Ilhas de Orango 361Parque Nacional de

Cantanhez 363Parque Nacional Marinho

João Vieira e Poilão 362

Parque Natural das La-goas de Cufada 362-3

Pongara National Park 276

Queen Elizabeth National Park 726-7

Ras Mohammed National Park 84

Reserva Natural de Rio Campo 262

Réserve d’Anja 791Réserve de Nazinga 176Réserve Naturelle

Somone 449River Gambia National

Park 301Royal Natal National

Park 927Ruaha National Park

699-700Rwenzori Mountains

National Park 725-6Samburu National

Reserve 617Sapo National Park 375Sehlabathebe National

Park 775Semuliki National Park

725Serengeti National

Park 694Shaba National Reserve

617Simien Mountains

National Park 589South Luangwa National

Park 18, 993-4, 18Table Mountain National

Park 899Tarangire National Park

691-2Tsavo East National

Park 631Tsavo West National Park

630-1Ts’ehlanyane National

Park 774uKhahlamba-

Drakensberg Park 926-8

Victoria Falls National Park 979, 1020, 982

Volcanoes National Park 647-8

Watamu Marine National Park 628

Waterberg Plateau Park 869

Zambezi National Park 979

Naukluft Mountains 883Ndola 998-9Nelspruit (Mbombela)

942-3New Afrika Shrine 408-9newspapers 1042Ngamba Island

Chimpanzee Sanctuary 717-18

Ngorongoro Conservation Area 693

Ngorongoro Crater 693Ngurdoto Crater 691Niger 398-401, 399Nigeria 402-21, 404-5


climate 402culture 417-18embassies & consulates

418-19environment 418food 402, 419highlights 404-5history 416-17holidays 420internet access 419money 419opening hours 420safe travel 418, 420travel to/within 421visas 420-1

Nile Valley 87-95Nkasa Rupara National

Park 874Nkhata Bay 817-19Nkhotakota Wildlife

Reserve 821Nkrumah, Kwame 335Northern Cape 945-7Nosy Be 794-6, 795Nouâdhibou 390-2Nouakchott 386-90, 388Ntonso 330Nungwi 676-7Nxai Pans National Park

748-9nyala antelope 925Nyika National Park 816Nyungwe Forest National

Park 650N’zérékoré 349-50

Ookapi 1059Okavango Delta 19, 751-9,

752-3, 19Okonjima Nature Reserve

868-9Old Dongola 536Omboué 277-8onchocerciasis 1085opening hours 1067,

see also individual countries

Opuwo 877-8Oshogbo 413-14Otjinjange Valley 878Ouagadougou 165-70,

168-9Ouesso 233-4

Ouidah 154-5Outamba-Kilimi National

Park 474-5

PPaarl 912Paje 677-8palaces

Bahia Palace 132Fon’s Palace 213Imperial Palace

(Massawa) 573Mengo Palace 709Moro-Naba Palace 165Oòni’s Palace 414Palace of Ahmed Bey 58Palais Royal (Foumban)

214Presidential Palace

(Lomé) 482Rova 783Tooro Palace 722

Palmarin 450Palmwag Concession 876-7Paquitequete 851parks & gardens, see

also national parks & nature reserves, wildife reserves & sanctuaries

Arboretum d’Antsokay 792-3

Botanical Gardens (Limbe) 209

Centre Songhai 153Cotton Tree 467Forodhani Gardens 668Jardins Auguste

Chevalier 347Jardin d’Essai 55Kirstenbosch Botanical

Gardens 898-9Stellenbosch University

Botanical Garden 910passports 1073Pedra do Lume 191Pemba (Mozambique)

851-2Pemba (Tanzania) 679penguins 899Petite Côte 449-51Philae 94phonecards 1068photography 1067Pico de São Tomé 430Pietermaritzburg 926Plage des Sables Blancs

561planning

Africa basics 20-1Africa’s regions 46-8budgeting 21


1113IN

DEX P

-S calendar of events 28-32food & drink 42-5internet resources 21itineraries 33-8repeat visitors 24safaris 39-41travel seasons 20, 28-32

Plettenberg Bay 913-14poaching 1055Pointe Denis 275-6Pointe-Noire 231-3polio 1085politics 1030-1Pongara National Park 276population 1031, 1038Port Elizabeth 916-17Port Said 85-6Port St Johns 919Port Sudan 537-9Port-Gentil 276-7Porto Novo 152-4Portuguese language

1094-6Possotomé 156postal services 1067-8Povoaçao Velha 191Praia 184-6, 185Pretoria 938-41, 940-1Príncipe 431-2, 423public holidays 1068, see

also individual locationsPyramids of Giza 11, 67, 11

QQaddafi, Muammar 104Qohaito 573quadbiking 971Queen Elizabeth National

Park 726-7Quelimane 847-8Quinhámel 362Quirimbas Archipelago 852Quthing 776

RRabat 112-16, 114-15rabies 1085radio 1042Ras Mohammed National

Park 84Rawlings, Jerry 335Red Sea Coast 86-7religion 282, 1031, 1039-40Réserve d’Anja 791Réserve de Nazinga 176rhinos 1058-9

Botswana 746Malawi 823Namibia 870, 876

South Africa 916, 924-5, 943-4

Swaziland 964-5Tanzania 700Uganda 732Zambia 988

Rift Valley fever 1085Ring Road 213, 214Rio Campo 262-3Rio Muni 260-4River Gambia National

Park 301River No 2 472Robben Island 898Robertsport 374Roça Agua Izė 428rock art

Botswana 750Lesotho 776Namibia 867, 875, 876South Africa 927, 945Zambia 997Zimbabwe 1022

Rock-Hewn Churches of Tigray 591-3

Roma 772-3Roman sites 58Route des Pêches 152Royal Natal National

Park 927Ruaha National Park

699-700Rundu 872Ruta 47 260Rwanda 639-54, 640

accommodation 639, 652climate 639embassies 652 food 639highlights 640history 651-2money 653 safe travel 652tourist offices 653 travel to/within 654visas 653

Rwenzori Mountains National Park 725-6

Ssafaris 39-41safe travel 1063-4, 1077,


Sahara, the 52, 65, 100, 121Sai Island 534Saint-Louis 451-4, 452Sal 191salt pans 748Saly 449-50

Samburu National Reserve 617

San Pédro 248-9San Rock Art 927Sandwich Harbour 879Sani Top 774-5Sankara, Thomas 177Santiago 183-6Santo Antão 189Santo António 432São Filipe 189-90São Tomé 422-35, 423


climate 422environment 433-4food 422highlights 423history 433holidays 434-5internet access 434money 434opening hours 434safe travel 434tourist offices 435travel to/within 435visas 435

São Tomé (city) 424-7, 425São Vicente 186-8Saqqara 77-8Sassandra 248savannahs 1050-1Sehlabathebe National

Park 775Selous Game Reserve

700-1Semonkong 775Semuliki National Park 725Senegal 436-63, 438-9


climate 436culture 461embassies & consulates

461food 436highlights 438-9history 460holidays 462internet access 462money 462opening hours 462safe travel 461tourist offices 462travel to/within 463visas 463

sept places 367, 463Serekunda 291-7, 292-3Serengeti National Park

694

Sesriem Canyon 883-4Setté Cama 279Shaba National Reserve

617Sharm el-Sheikh 83-5Shona 1096-7Siavonga 995Sibebe Rock 957Sierra Leone 464-79, 465


478food 464, 478highlights 465history 477holidays 479internet access 478money 478-9opening hours 479safe travel 478tourist offices 479travel to/within 479

Silacoro 249-50Simien Mountains National

Park 589Sinai 81-5Sindou Peaks 175Siné-Saloum Delta 449Sirleaf, Ellen Johnson 376Skeleton Coast 878slavery 17, 193, 321, 324,

399, 448, 477, 668-9, 1035

slavery memorials & museums

La Maison des Esclaves 448

Route des Esclaves 154Slave History Museum

415sleeping sickness 1085snake bites 1087snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingsoccer 1040-1 Sokodé 491-2Soleb 534solo travellers 1071Somalia 655-8, 656Somaliland 658Somba people 160Sossusvlei 19, 883-4, 19South Africa 895-954,

896-7accommodation 895,

949activities 949 climate 895culture 949

1114

IND

EX S-V

South Africa continuedembassies & consulates

950-1food 895highlights 896-7history 948-9money 951 safe travel 935, 951tourist offices 952 travel to/within 952-4visas 952

South Luangwa National Park 18, 993-4, 18

South Sudan 545-8, 546Soweto 937-8Sphinx 67Spitzkoppe, the 874-5sports 1040-1Ssese Islands 731Stellenbosch 910-12Step Pyramid of Zoser 77Stone Town 13, 668,

672-3, 13Suakin 539Sudan 525-44, 526


541-2food 525, 542highlights 526history 540-1holidays 543internet access 542money 542opening hours 543safe travel 543tourist offices 543travel to/within 544visas 543-4

Suez Canal 85-6Sunshine Coast 914-18surfing

Freetown Peninsula 471Kokrobite 320Plage de Yoff 437Robertsport 374South Africa 915, 916

Swahili language 1097Swakopmund 878-82, 880Swaziland 955-68, 956

accommodation 955, 966-7

climate 955culture 966

embassies & consulates 967

environment 966food 955highlights 956history 965-6safe travel 967travel to/within 968visas 968

TTable Mountain 898Table Mountain National

Park 899Tadjoura 561-2Tafi Abuipe Cultural Centre

319Takoradi 324-5Tamale 331-2Tamatave 798-800, 799Tambacounda 455Tamberma compounds 491Tanga 680-2Tangier 108-10, 108Tanji 298Tanzania 659-707, 660-1

accommodation 659, 703climate 659embassies & consulates

704food 659highlights 660-1history 702-3safe travel 703-4travel to/within 706-7visas 705-6

Tarangire National Park 691-2

tata 491taxis 1079taxis-brousses 163, 181,

355, 380, 397, 807telephone services 1068temples

Great Temple of Ramses II 95

Karnak 87Luxor Temple 87Medinat Habu 87Memorial Temple of

Hatshepsut 87Soleb 534Temple of Horus 90Temple of Isis 94Temple of Kom Ombo 90Temples of Abu

Simbel 95Tengréla Lake 174Thaba-Bosiu 773Thabana-Ntlenyana 774

Tiébélé 176-7time 1068-9Timgad 58Timimoun 59Timkat 28, 587Tipaza 56tipping 1067Tiwai Island 475-6Toamasina 798-800, 799Tofo 843Togo 480-96, 481


arts 493climate 480culture 493embassies & consulates

494environment 493food 480highlights 481history 492-3holidays 494-5internet access 494money 494opening hours 494safe travel 494tourist offices 495travel to/within 495, 496visas 495

Togoville 487toilets 1069Tokeh Beach 472-3Toliara 792-4, 793Toro-Semliki Wildlife

Reserve 725Toteil 537Toten Island 681Toubab Dialao 451Toubakouta 450-1tourist information 1069,


train travel 390, 1079travel to/from Africa

1073-4travel within Africa 1074-9travellers cheques 1067trekking, see hikingtruck travel 1079Tsavo East National Park

631Tsavo West National Park

630-1Ts’ehlanyane National

Park 774Tsodilo Hills 750Tsumeb 869-70tuberculosis 1085Tujering 301Tuléar 792-4, 793

Tuli Block 747-8Tunisia 141-4, 142Turtle Islands 475turtles 231-2, 276, 279, 628TV 1042Twyfelfontein 875-6typhoid 1085-6

UUganda 708-38, 710-11

accommodation 708climate 708culture 735 embassies & consulates

735-6food 708highlights 710-11history 734-5money 736 safe travel 735travel to/within 737-8visas 737

uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park 926-8

uMkhuze Game Reserve 925

Upington 946-7urbanisation 1038Ureca 260Usambara Mountains 682

Vvacations 1068, see

also individual locationsvaccinations 1080-1Valley of the Kings 87Varela 362vegetarian & vegan

travellers 44-5Viana Desert 191Victoria Falls 11, 969-84,

1020, 970, 980, 982, 10-11

access 975accommodation 969activities 970-3food 969highlights 970travel seasons 969, 972Zambia 973-9Zimbabwe 979-84

Victoria Falls World Heritage National Monument Site 11, 974, 10-11

Vilankulo 843-5Village des Arts 437visas 20, 1069-71, see

also individual countriesVolcanoes National Park

647-8Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1115IN

DEX W

-Z Volta region 318-20Volubilis 129volunteering 1071voodoo 154Vwaza Marsh Wildlife

Reserve 816-17

WWa 334Wadi Halfa 533-4walking, see hikingWassu Stone Circles 302Watamu 628-9Watamu Marine National

Park 628water 1055, 1087Waterberg Plateau Park

869waterfalls

Bridal Veil Falls 1016Cascade de Womé 487-8Cascata São Nicolau 430Chutes de Ditinn 347Chutes de la Lobé 216Chutes du Zongo 517Epupa Falls 877Kalambo Falls 998Karfiguéla Waterfalls 174Ketane Falls 775Kongou Falls 282La Cascade 250Maletsunyane Falls 775Manchewe Falls 815Mingouli Falls 282Murchison Falls 731Sipi Falls 721-2Victoria Falls World

Heritage National Monument Site 11, 974, 10-11

Wli Falls 319-20Wawa 534weather 20, 28-32, see

also individual countriesweaving 330websites, see internet

resourcesWest Nile fever 1086whale-shark watching 557whale-watching 276, 279white-water rafting 719,

965, 971-2Wide Open Walls 298Wild Coast 918-19wildebeest 694, 988, 996,

1059Wildebeest Kuil Rock Art

Centre 945

wildlife 1056-60, see also individual animals

wildlife reserves & sanctuaries, see also national parks & nature reserves

Afi Mountain Drill Ranch 415

Bijilo Forest Park 291Birds of Eden 913Boulders Penguin Colony

899Cape Cross Seal Reserve

878Central Kalahari Game

Reserve 759-60Chimfunshi Wildlife

Orphanage 1000Chimpanzee Eden 942Chimpanzee

Rehabilitation Project 301

Daan Viljoen Game Park 862

David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust 603

Erindi Private Game Reserve 867-8

Fathala Wildlife Reserve & Lodge 450-1

Gaborone Game Reserve 741

Giraffe Centre 603Harnas Wildlife

Foundation & Guest Farm 867

Institut de Recherche Environnementalde Bossou 350

Kachikally Crocodile Pool 291

Khama Rhino Sanctuary 746

Lekki Conservation Centre 403

Lésio Louna Gorilla Reserve 232

Lilayi Elephant Nursery 988

Lilongwe Wildlife Centre 810

Limbe Wildlife Centre 209

Liwonde Rhino Sanctuary 823

Lola Ya Bonobo Sanctuary 517

Majete Wildlife Reserve 828-9

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary 961-2

Mkhaya Game Reserve 964-5

Moka Wildlife Center 261Monkeyland 913Moremi Game Reserve

759Nata Bird Sanctuary 748Ngamba Island

Chimpanzee Sanctuary 717-18

Parc Sarakawa 490Réserve Satellite du Cap

Blanc 391Selous Game Reserve

700-1Senkwekwe Gorilla

Orphanage 519Serpents du Congo 511Tacugama Chimpanzee

Sanctuary 471Tafi Atome Monkey

Sanctuary 319Tiwai Island Wildlife

Sanctuary 475Toro-Semliki Wildlife

Reserve 725Uganda Wildlife

Education Centre 718uMkhuze Game Reserve

925Ureca Nature Center 260Vwaza Marsh Wildlife

Reserve 816-17Wechiau Hippo

Sanctuary 334Wild is Life 1007Ziwa Rhino Santuary 732

wildlife-watching 25, 1058Congo, Republic of

231-2, 233, 234-5Ethiopia 596Gabon 276, 278-80, 281-2Kenya 603, 611, 613, 616,

617, 619, 620-1, 628, 629-31

Namibia 890Rwanda 647, 649, 650South Africa 916, 924-5,

943-5, 947Zambia 988, 993-5, 996,

1000Wimbi Beach 851Windhoek 862-7, 864Winelands 19, 910-12, 19wineries 868, 899, 910, 911Wolof 1097women in Africa 1042-3women travellers 1072work 1072World’s View 1022

XXhosa language 1098

YYamoussoukro 249Yaoundé 200-4, 202, 204yellow fever 1086York 474

ZZagora 134-5Zambia 985-1004, 986-7


activities 1001-2 climate 985culture 1001 food 985highlights 986-7history 1000-1money 1002-3 safe travel 1002travel to/within 1003-4tourist offices 1003 visas 1003

Zanzibar 668-78, 670Zanzibar Town 668-76,

672-3zebras 694, 733Ziguinchor 455-7, 457Zimbabwe 1005-28, 1006


activities 1025 climate 1005culture 1024-5 embassies & consulates

1025-6environment 1025food 1005highlights 1006history 1023-4money 1026 safe travel 1025tourist offices 1026 travel to/within 1027-8visas 1026-7

ziplining 973Ziwa Rhino Santuary 732Zomba 823-4Zomba Plateau 824zoos, see wildlife reserves

& sanctuariesZulu 1098-9Zululand 924-6Zwedru 375-6

1116

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


1117Caroline SiegBenin, Liberia, Togo Caroline began her career producing foreign-language textbooks before hopping over to travel publishing, first as a travel editor at Frommer’s Travel in the US and later as a commissioning editor at Lonely Planet in London. She then managed and curated digital marketing content for diverse brands including Travelzoo and Art Basel. She’s written about destinations across the globe. For Lonely Planet she’s covered the US, Africa and Europe.

Helena SmithCameroon, Nigeria Helena is an award-winning writer and photographer cov-ering travel and food – she has written guidebooks on destinations from Fiji to northern Norway. Helena is from Scotland but was partly brought up in Malawi, so Africa always feels like home. She also enjoys global travel in her multicultural home borough of Hackney and wrote, photographed and published Inside Hack-ney, the first guide to the borough (insidehackney.com).

Regis St LouisCabo Verde, The Gambia, Morocco, Senegal Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest and developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, cover-ing destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the moun-tains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him on www.instagram.com/regisstlouis.

Paul StilesSão Tomé & Príncipe When he was 21, Paul bought an old motorcycle in London and drove it to Tunisia. That did it for him. Since then he has explored around 60 countries, and covered many adventure destinations for Lonely Planet, including Morocco, Madagascar, São Tomé & Príncipe, Indonesia, the Philippines, Hawaii, Maui, and Kaua’i. In all things, he tries to follow the rocking chair rule: when making key life decisions, assume the perspective of an elderly person sitting in a rocking chair. Because some day that will be you.


Stephen LioyEritrea Stephen Lioy is a photographer, writer, hiker, and travel blogger based in Central Asia. A ‘once in a lifetime’ Eurotrip and post-university move to China set the stage for what would eventually become a semi-nomadic lifestyle based on sharing his experiences with would-be travellers and helping provide that initial push out of comfort zones and into all that the planet has to offer. Follow Stephen’s travels at www.monkboughtlunch.com or see his photogra-

phy at www.stephenlioy.com.

Nana LuckhamGhana, Sierra Leone Nana began writing about travel in 2006, after several years working as a United Nations press officer in New York. She has been all over the world for Lonely Planet including to Malawi, Zambia, Algeria, South Africa, Fiji and Tuvalu. She has also written features for lonelyplanet.com and for other leading publications. Currently based in London, she’s lived in New York, France, Ghana, Zimbabwe, Tanzania and Australia.

Vesna MaricBurkina Faso, Côte d’Ivoire Vesna has been a Lonely Planet author for over a dec-ade, covering places as far and wide as Bolivia, Algeria, Sicily, Cyprus, Barcelona, London and Croatia, among others. Her latest work has been updating the Burki-na Faso and Ivory Coast chapters for the West Africa and Africa guides.

Tom MastersDemocratic Republic of Congo, Kenya, Republic of Congo, Rwanda, Uganda Dreaming since he could walk of going to the most obscure places on earth, Tom has always had a taste for the unknown. This has led to a writing career that has taken him all over the world, including North Korea, the Arctic, Congo and Sibe-ria. Despite a brief spell living in the English countryside, Tom has always called London, Paris and Berlin home. He currently lives in Berlin and can be found

online at www.tommasters.net.

Virginia MaxwellMorocco Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage in Europe and the Middle East. The Mediterranean is her favourite place to travel, and she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Morocco for LP guidebooks – there are only eight more countries to go! Virginia also writes about Armenia, Iran and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Lorna ParkesMorocco Londoner by birth, Melburnian by palate and ex–Lonely Planet staffer in both cities, Lorna has spent more than 10 years exploring the globe in search of the perfect meal, the friendliest B&B, the best-value travel experience, and the most spectacular lookout point. She’s discovered she writes best on planes, and has con-tributed to numerous Lonely Planet books and magazines. Wineries and the tropics (not at the same time!) are her go-to happy places. Follow her @Lorna_Explorer.

Helen RangerEquatorial Guinea, Gabon Although born and brought up in the UK, Helen left in her early twenties to explore other shores. Cape Town was her home for many years but she now lives in Fez, Morocco. She has contributed to Lonely Planet’s Fez Encounter, South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland, Cape Town, Africa and Mo-rocco guides. Follow her on Twitter: @helenranger @fezriads @conciergmorocco and on Instagram: helenranger and conciergemorocco.

Brendan SainsburyAngola, Mozambique Originally from Hampshire, England, Brendan first experi-enced Africa on a solo cycling trip around Morocco in the early 1990s. He revisited the continent in 1997, when he hitchhiked from Cape Town to Kilimanjaro. Brendan learned Portuguese and became eternally obsessed with the African Lusosphere while teaching at a rural school in Angola in 2001–02, He once directed a Portuguese production of Shakespeare’s Comedy of Errors at a theatre in war-torn Benguela.

Paul ClammerMorocco Paul Clammer has worked as a molecular biologist, tour leader and travel writer. Since 2003 he has worked as a guidebook author for Lonely Plan-et, contributing to over 25 LP titles, covering destinations including swathes of South and Central Asia, West and North Africa and the Caribbean. In recent years he’s lived in Morocco, Jordan, Haiti and Fiji, as well as his native England. Find him online at paulclammer.com or on Twitter as @paulclammer.

Lucy CorneSouth Africa, Lesotho, Swaziland Lucy left university with a degree in journalism and a pair of perpetually itchy feet. She taught EFL for eight years in Spain, South Korea, Canada, China and India, while writing freelance features for a range of magazines, newspapers and websites. She joined the Lonely Planet team in 2008 and has since worked on a range of titles including Africa, Canary Islands, South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland and several foodie titles. Lucy lives in Cape Town with

her husband and young son, where she writes on travel, food and beer. Her popular blog, www.brew mistress.co.za, documents the South African beer scene.

Emilie FilouMadagascar Emilie is a freelance journalist specialising in business and devel-opment issues, with a particular interest in Africa. Born in France, Emilie is now based in London, UK, from where she makes regular trips to Africa. Her work has appeared in publications such as the BBC, Economist, Guardian, Africa Report and Christian Science Monitor.

Mary FitzpatrickTanzania, Mozambique Originally from the USA, Mary spent her early years dreaming of how to get across an ocean or two to more exotic locales. Following graduate studies, she set off for Europe. Her fascination with languages and cultures soon led her further south to Africa, where she has spent the past two decades living and working as a professional travel writer all around the continent. She focuses particularly on East and Southern Africa, including Mozambique and

Tanzania. Mary has authored and co-authored many guidebooks for Lonely Planet, including Mo-zambique; Tanzania; South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland; East Africa; West Africa; and Egypt.

Michael GrosbergGuinea-Bissau, Mauritania Michael has worked on over 45 Lonely Planet guide-books. Prior to his freelance writing career, other international work included development on the island of Rota in the western Pacific; South Africa where he investigated and wrote about political violence and helped train newly elected government representatives; and Quito, Ecuador, teaching.

Trent HoldenVictoria Falls, Zambia, Zimbabwe A writer based in Geelong, just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his ele-ment when assigned to cover a nation’s capital to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes guides to tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcon-

tinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor and reviewer and spends all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.

Jessica LeeEgypt, Morocco Jess high-tailed it for the road at the age of 18 and hasn’t looked back since. In 2011 she swapped a career as an adventure-tour leader for travel writing and since then her travels for Lonely Planet have taken her across Africa, the Middle East and Asia. She has lived in the Middle East since 2007 and tweets @jessofarabia. Jess has contributed to Lonely Planet’s Egypt, Turkey, Cyprus, Marrakesh, Middle East, Europe, Africa, Cambodia, and Vietnam guidebooks

and her travel writing has appeared in Wanderlust magazine, the Daily Telegraph, the Independent, BBC Travel and Lonelyplanet.com.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415314th edition – Nov 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 152 6© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSAnthony HamBotswana, Libya, Namibia, Tunisia, Plan Your Trip, Understand Africa, Survival Guide Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US.

Brett AtkinsonMorocco For this new edition, Brett travelled from his New Zealand home to explore the fascinating medinas of Taroudannt and Tiznit, the spectacular Atlantic coastline, and the wild desert vistas of the Sahara. A highlight was the poignant and elegant Spanish Art Deco architecture of Sidi Ifni. Brett’s contributed to Lonely Planet guide-books spanning Europe, Africa, Asia and the Pacific, and covered over 60 countries as a food and travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures.

James BainbridgeMalawi James is a British travel writer and journalist based in Cape Town, South Af-rica, from where he roams the globe and contributes to publications worldwide. He has been working on Lonely Planet projects for over a decade. He has contributed to several editions of Lonely Planet’s South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland, Turkey and Morocco guides, and his articles on travel, culture and investment appear in the likes of BBC Travel, the UK Guardian and Independent and Condé Nast Traveller.

Stuart ButlerAlgeria, Burundi, Central African Republic, Chad, Guinea, Mali, Niger, South Sudan Stuart’s earliest travel writing was all based on surfing and exploring little- known coastlines for waves. Today, as well as guidebooks, Stuart writes often about con-servation and environmental issues, wildlife watching and hiking. He also works as a photographer and was a finalist in both the 2015 and 2016 Travel Photographer of the Year Awards. His website is at www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com.

Jean-Bernard CarilletDjibouti, Ethiopia, Somalia, Sudan Jean-Bernard is a Paris-based freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Africa, France, Turkey, the Indian Ocean, the Caribbean and the Pacific. He loves adventure, remote places, islands, outdoors, archaeological sites and food. His insatiable wanderlust has taken him to 114 countries across six continents. It has inspired lots of articles and photos for travel magazines and some 70 Lonely Planet guidebooks, both in English and in French.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS


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