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872872

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes: Sain Alizada, Matthieu Brusseau, Tine Declerck, Stewart Gray, Balawyn Jones, Andy Leerock, Boyan Lin, Charlie Merry, Felicity Milanovic, Maria Skinnemoen, Jukka Sutinen, Connor Yocum, Zhu Zhengqing

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Clas-sification’, Hydrology and Earth System Scienc-es, 11, 163–344.

Illustrations p66–7 by Javier Zarracina & Michael Weldon, p90–1, p92–3, p310–11, p318–19, p418–19, p446–7, p514–15, p518–19, p532–3, p546–7, p574–5, p786–7 and p794–5 by Javier Zarracina

Cover photograph: Detail of timber-framed buildings, Copenhagen, Denmark, The Picture Store / Alamy ©

Behind the Scenes

THIS BOOKThe 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Europe on a Shoe-string guidebook was curated by Mark Baker, Tom Masters, Korina Miller, Simon Richmond, Andy Symington and Nicola Williams. This guidebook was produced by the following:Associate Product Director Kirsten Rawlings

Destination Editors Helen Elfer, Gemma Graham, James Smart, Anna Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic, Clifton WilkinsonProduct Editors Elizabeth Jones, Kate JamesSenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designers Cam Ashley, Kerrianne Jenkins, Katherine Marsh, Jessica Rose, Wibowo Rusli

Assisting Editors Andrea Dobbin, Katie Connolly, Bella Li, Katie O’Connell, Gabrielle Stefanos, Saralinda Turner, Fionnuala TwomeyCover Designer Campbell McKenzieThanks to James Hardy, Liz Heynes, Indra Kilfoyle, Claire Murphy, Darren O’Connell, Diana Saengkham, Eleanor Simpson, Angela Tinson, Tracy Whitmey

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 873

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAachen 251 Aarhus 158-9Abisko 170accommodation 22, 39,

850-1, see also individual locations

Accursed Mountains 650Acropolis (Athens) 494, 544,

546-7, 19, 546-7activities 27-31, 39, see

also individual activities, individual locations

air passes 860air travel 43, see also

individual countriesto/from Europe 859within Europe 860

Aix-en-Provence 340Akureyri 205-6Åland 179Albania 610-11, 647-54,

604-5accommodation 653climate 611costs 653food 653highlights 610-11holidays 653language 864money 653population 611public holidays 653religion 611telephone services 653travel to/from 653travel within 610, 653-4visas 653weather 611

Albanian language 864Albanian Riviera 652Alcobaça 395

alcohol 853, see also beer, vodka, whisky, wine

Aletsch Glacier 300, 358Algarve, the 468-75, 470-1Alhambra 392, 446-7. 448-9,

446-7Amboise 327-8Amsterdam 16, 216, 278-84,

280, 282-3, 16accommodation 279-81activities 279drinking 283-4entertainment 284food 281-3LGBT travellers 278nightlife 283-4sights 278-9tourist information 284tours 279travel to/from 284travel within 284

Ancient Agora 544Ancient Delphi 557Andalucía 439-58Ankara 588-92, 590Antalya 571-3, 572Antwerp 263-6, 264Anvers, see Antwerpaquariums 404

Aquarium San Sebastián 404-5

Malmö Museer 167Musée Océanographique

de Monaco 346Oceanogràfic 435Polaria 195

Arc de Triomphe 308architecture 24, 821art collections 26, see also

museums & galleriesAthens 19, 494-5, 544-56,

548-9, 19accommodation 551drinking 552-3emergencies 553entertainment 552-3

festivals 551food 551-2safe travel 553shopping 553sights 544-50tourist information 553tours 550-1travel to/from 553, 556travel within 556

ATMs 853aurora borealis 94

Iceland 148Norway 197Sweden 142

Auschwitz-Birkenau 692, 725Austria 302-3, 367-88,

296-7accommodation 386, 387business hours 387climate 303costs 387food 387highlights 302-3holidays 387internet resources 386money 387opening hours 387population 303public holidays 387religion 303telephone services 387travel to/from 387travel within 302, 388visas 387weather 303

Avignon 340-1Ávila 404Aya Sofya 497, 574-5, 579,

574-5Azores, the 485

BBacharach 245Balearic Islands 428-33

Balkans 49, 603-86, 604-5, see also individual countries

itineraries 604-5ballooning 596Baltic coast 806-48, 778-9,

see also individual countries

itineraries 778-9bank transfers 854Barcelona 17, 392, 416-26,

420-1, 424-5, 2, 17accommodation 422-3drinking 424-6entertainment 426food 423nightlife 424-6sights 416-22tourist information 426travel to/from 426travel within 426

bargaining 23bars 26, see also individual

locationsBasel 301, 360-1Batalha 395Bath 55, 75-7, 76baths, see hamams, hot

springs, saunasBayeux 322-3Bayeux Tapestry 322beaches 24-5

Andalucía 458Budva 639Cadiz 452Portugal 467, 474, 475Santorini 561Ventspils 832

Beaune 332beer, see also breweries

Belgium 214, 269Czech Republic 691festivals 28, 31, 213

Begijnhof 268Belarus 775, 774Belfast 127-31, 128

874

IND

EX B-C

Belfort 268Belgium 214-15, 257-75,

210-11accommodation 274business hours 274climate 215costs 274food 274highlights 214-15holidays 274LGBT travellers 274money 274opening hours 274population 215public holidays 274religion 215telephone services 274travel to/from 274-5travel within 214, 274-5weather 215

Belgrade 607, 662-6, 664-5

Berat 610, 651-2Berchtesgaden 235-6Bergen 146-7, 189-91Berlin 12, 212, 218-28, 218,

220, 222, 224-5, 12accommodation 221drinking 223-4entertainment 224LGBT travellers 223nightlife 223-4sights 218-21tourist information 225tours 221travel to/from 225-8travel within 228

Berlin Wall 220, 226-7, 226-7

Bern 356-7, 291Bernese Oberland 356-9bicycle travel, see cyclingBig Ben 60, 10Bilbao 406-9, 407birdwatching 470, 475Birkenau 692, 725Bitola 658-9Black Forest 213, 241-3,

242Bled 732-5, 734Blois 325-6Blue Lagoon 200, 95boat travel 860, see also

individual countries

Bohemia 708-10Bolshoi Theatre 791books 21Bordeaux 337-8Bosnia & Hercegovina 608-

9, 630-8, 604-5accommodation 637climate 609costs 637, 638food 635, 638highlights 608-9history 631money 637-8population 609religion 609safe travel 637travel to/from 638travel within 608, 638visas 638weather 609

Bovec 733Braga 485-6Bran 758Bran Castle 699, 758Brandenburg Gate 218, 12Brandenburger Tor 218, 12Braşov 755-8Braubach 246Bremen 255-6Brest 775breweries

Beck’s Brewery 255Brouwerij Troost 283Carlsberg Visitors

Centre 151Guinness Storehouse

108, 3Heineken Experience 279Stella Artois 263Trondheim

Microbryggeri 193Bridge of Sighs 498Britain, see Great BritainBrittany 323-5Brno 711-12Bruges 214, 268-71, 270Brussels 257-62, 258-9Bruxelles, see BrusselsBryggen 189Bucharest 698, 699, 749-

53, 752Budapest 16, 738-45, 740,

742, 2, 16budget 21, 38-42Budva 638-40, 639, 770Bulgaria 670-86, 612-13,

604-5accommodation 684,

685

beaches 612climate 613costs 685food 685highlights 612-13holidays 685language 864money 684-5population 613public holidays 685religion 613telephone services 685travel to/from 685travel within 612, 686visas 685weather 613

Bulgarian language 864bullfighting 408, 458bungee jumping 358, 830Burgas 682-3Burgos 409-10Burgundy 330-2bus travel 44-6, 860-1, see

also individual countriesbusiness hours, see

individual countries

CCadaqués 427Cádiz 452-4, 453cafes 26, see also

individual locationsCambridge 55, 81-2Camino de Santiago 393Camp Nou 422camping 850-1Campo de’ Fiori 525cannabis 853Cannes 344-5Canterbury 73Cape Sounion 545Cappadocia 496, 594-8,

595car travel 46, 861-2, see

also individual countriesCardiff 56, 87-8Carnac 324Colosseum 516Carnival

Italy 27, 502, 29Netherlands 27Portugal 477Spain 453

Carpathian mountains 699Cascais 467-8Casino de Monte Carlo 346castles & palaces 24, see

also fortressesAkershus Slott 186

Alcazaba (Málaga) 455-6

Alcázar (Seville) 439Alhambra (Granada)

392, 446-7. 448-9, 446-7

Ayasuluk Fortress (Selçuk) 576

Binnenhof (Den Haag) 286

Bled Castle 732Bran Castle 699, 758Buckingham Palace

(London) 61Car Samoil’s Castle

(Ohrid) 657Cardiff Castle 87-8Casa de Pilatos (Seville)

439Castello Visconteo

(Locarno) 363Castelo de São Jorge

(Lisbon) 460Castelo dos Mouros

(Sintra) 466Catherine Palace

(Tsarkoe Selo) 801-2Cēsis Castle 831Český Krumlov State

Castle 709Château de Bouillon 273Château de Chambord

326Château de Chenonceau

327Château de Cheverny

326Château de St-Malo 324Château de Versailles

318-19, 320, 318-19Château de Villandry 327Château Royal

d’Amboise 327Château Royal de Blois

325Conwy Castle 56, 89Diocletian’s Palace

(Split) 619, 621Dolmabahçe Palace

(İstanbul) 581Dunvegan Castle

(Skye) 104Edinburgh Castle 89,

96, 95Eger Castle 745Gravensteen (Ghent)

266Het Steen (Antwerp) 264Hofburg (Innsbruck)

367, 382Kaiserappartements

(Vienna) 367Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

875IN

DEX C

Kaiserburg (Nuremburg) 239

Kalaja (Berat) 651Karlštejn Castle 706Kilkenny Castle 116Kronborg Slot

(Helsingør) 141, 156Kungliga Slottet

(Stockhom) 161Ljubljana Castle 727-8Malbork Castle 692, 718Olavinlinna (Savonlinna)

182Palace of the Grand

Dukes of Lithuania (Vilnius) 834-5

Palácio Nacional de Sintra 466

Palacio Real (Madrid) 396

Palais des Papes (Avignon) 340

Palais Princier de Monaco 346

Peterhof 801Prague Castle 690-1,

700, 701Residenz (Salzburg) 377Royal Castle (Warsaw)

714Royal Palace (Budapest)

696, 738San Lorenzo de El

Escorial 404Schloss Belvedere 371Schloss Chalottenburg

220Schloss Eggenberg

(Graz) 374Schloss Heidelberg 240Schloss

Hohenschwangau (Füssen) 237

Schloss Mirabell (Salzburg) 379

Schloss Neuschwanstein (Füssen) 212, 236-7

Schloss Nymphenburg 234

Schloss Schönbrunn (Vienna) 371, 18

Sigulda Medieval Castle 828-9

Topkapı Palace (İstanbul) 580

Trakai Castle 840Turaida Museum Reserve

(Sigulda) 828Turun Linna (Turku) 177Urquhart Castle

(Inverness) 103Vianden 277

Villa Medici (Rome) 525Wawel Royal Castle

(Kraków) 721Windsor Castle 74Würzburg Residenz 238

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

Causeway Coast 131-2caves

Eisriesenwelt 303, 381Korykeon Cave 557Postojna Cave 695, 736Werfen 381

cell phones 20, 855, see also individual countries

cemeteries 275Capuchin Monastery 711Cimetière du Père

Lachaise 309Fromelles (Pheasant

Wood) Cemetery & Museum 322

Les Catacombes 305Lychakiv Cemetery 772Normandy American

Cemetery 323Prague Jewish

Cemetery 705Warsaw Jewish

Cemetery 717Ypres 272

Central Europe 49, 687-776, 688-9, see also individual countries

itineraries 688-9Cēsis 830-2, 831Český Krumlov 690, 709-

10, 710Cetinje 644-5Chamonix 299, 335-6, 290Champagne 299, 328-30Charles Bridge 690charter flights 43cheese 217chocolate 215churches & cathedrals

Aachen cathedral 251Aleksander Nevski

Church (Sofia) 613, 670-1

Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral (Tallinn) 808-9, 18

Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar (Barcelona) 417

Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome) 528

Basilica di San Marco (Venice) 498

Basilica di Santa Croce 509-10 (Florence)

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute (Venice) 498

Basilica of St Stephen (Budapest) 741

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur (Paris) 309

Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière (Lyon) 333

Basilique St-Rémi (Reims) 328

Canterbury Cathedral 73Catedral (Burgos) 409Catedral (Valencia) 433Catedral & Giralda

(Seville) 439, 554Catedral de Cádiz 452Catedral de Santiago de

Compostela 414Cathedral of St Domnius

(Split) 621Cathedral of the

Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Zagreb) 614

Cathédrale de Notre Dame (Lausanne) 353

Cathédrale Notre Dame (Reims) 328

Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris 305, 4, 11

Cathédrale St-André (Bordeaux) 337

Cathédrale St-Jean (Lyon) 333

Cathédrale St-Pierre (Geneva) 350

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (Lugano) 363-4

Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angioli (Lugano) 364

Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo (Ohrid) 657

Church on the Spilled Blood (St Petersburg) 793, 13

Dom (Salzburg) 377Domkyrka (Uppsala) 166Duomo (Florence) 508Frauenkirche

(Dresden) 228Fraumünster

(Zürich) 361Freiburger Münster 243Hallgrímskirkja

(Reykjavík) 197Hofkirche (Innsbruck)

382I Frari (Venice) 499

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo & Capela dos Ossos 469

Kaiserdom (Speyer) 241Kaliningrad Cathedral

802Kölner Dom 246La Catedral (Barcelona)

416La Sagrada Família

(Barcelona) 417, 418-19, 2, 17, 418-19

Lund Cathedral 167Mont St-Michel 323Nidaros Domkirke

(Trondheim) 193Onze-Lieve-

Vrouwekathedraal (Antwerp) 263

Rīga Cathedral 821Roskilde Domkirke 157Sainte-Chapelle (Paris)

305Salisbury Cathedral 74Santuario della Madonna

del Sasso (Locarno) 363

Sé (Faro) 468-9Sedlec Ossuary (Kutná

Hora) 691, 708St Anne’s Church

(Warsaw) 715St-Baafskathedraal

(Ghent) 266St Basil’s Cathedral

(Moscow) 784, 770St Canice’s Cathedral

(Kilkenny) 117St Mary’s Basilica

(Kraków) 721, 15St Nicholas Church

(Prague) 704St Paul’s Cathedral

(London) 61St Peter’s Basilica

(Vatican) 517, 522St Sophia’s Cathedral

(Kyiv) 764St Tryphon’s Cathedral

(Kotor) 642St Vitus Cathedral

(Prague) 691, 700Sts Peter & Paul

Cathedral (Kaunas) 841

Stavropoleos Church (Bucharest) 749

Stephansdom (Vienna) 367, 370

Storkyrkan (Stockhom) 161

Sveta Sofia Church 671

876

IND

EX C-F

churches & cathedrals continued

Tuomiokirkko (Tampere) 179

Turun Tuomiokirkko (Turku) 176

Vilnius Cathedral 835Wawel Cathedral

(Kraków) 721Westminster Abbey 60York Minster 82

Cinque Terre 493, 513, 7, 554-5

Çıralı 576Cliffs of Moher 59, 126climate 20, 27-31climate change 859clothing 22coffee 372Coimbra 395, 478-81, 479Cologne 246-9, 248-9Connemara 126-7consulates 851-2Conwy 89Conwy Castle 56, 89Copenhagen 140, 150-6,

152-3Córdoba 443-8, 444Corfu 495, 538-43Corfu Town 539-43,

540-1Cork 118-21, 120Corniches 298Corniglia 813costs 21, 850, see also

individual countriesCote d’Azur 341-7credit cards 853-4Croatia 606-7, 614-30,

604-5accommodation 629business hours 629climate 607costs 629food 629highlights 606-7language 864-5money 629opening hours 629population 607travel to/from 629-30travel within 606, 630visas 629weather 607

Croatian language 864-5

Curonian Spit National Park 783, 846-7

currency 20, 853, see also individual countries

customs regulations 851cycling 46, 860

Austria 388Denmark 140-1Finland 145France 349Ireland 136Latvia 825London 72Netherlands 216, 285

Czech language 865Czech Republic 690-1,

700-13, 688-9accommodation 712business hours 712climate 691costs 712, 713food 690, 713highlights 690-1holidays 712-13language 865money 712opening hours 712population 691public holidays 712-13telephone services 713travel to/from 713travel within 690, 713weather 691

DDalí, Salvador 427Dalmatia 628dangers, see safe travelDanish language 865Danube, the 373Daugavpils 832Delft 216-17, 287-8Delphi 494, 556-8, 557,

558Den Haag 285-7Denmark 140-1, 150-61,

138-9accommodation 160business hours 160climate 141cycling 140-1highlights 140-1holidays 160language 865LGBT travellers 160money 160opening hours 160population 141

public holidays 160religion 141telephone services 160travel to/from 161travel within 140, 161weather 141

Derry 132-4, 133Dihovo 660Dijon 330-2, 331disabilities, travellers with

856-7discount cards 39

Belfast 130Berlin 219Bordeaux 337Dublin 109Finland 184Freiburg 243Innsbruck 384Luxembourg 277Rīga 826Rome 525Salzburg 377Salzkammergut 381Switzerland 366Venice 505Vienna 367

diving 634Dracula 757, 758, 760Dresden 228-30, 229drugs 853, 854-5Druskininkai 840-1Dublin 16, 58, 108-16,

110-1, 3accommodation 112-13drinking 113-14entertainment 114-15food 113, 114nightlife 113-14sights 108-12tourist information 115tours 112travel to/from 115-16travel within 116

Dubrovnik 14, 606, 625-9, 626-7, 14

Dune du Pilat 299, 338Durmitor National Park

609, 645Düsseldorf 249-51, 250Dutch language 865

EEastern Europe 49, 687-

776, 688-9, see also individual countries

itineraries 688-9Edinburgh 57, 89-99, 96

accommodation 97drinking 98entertainment 98food 97-8nightlife 98sights 89, 96-7tourist information 98travel to/from 98-9travel within 98-9

Edinburgh International Festival 30, 97

Eger 697, 745-6Eiffel Tower 298, 304Eisriesenwelt 303El Escorial 404electricity 851embassies 851-2emergencies 21, see also

individual countriesEngland 54-5, 60-87, 52-3,

see also Great Britainclimate 55highlights 54-5population 55religion 55transport 54weather 55

Epernay 329-30Ephesus 496, 576, 578,

555Escher, MC 286Estonia 781, 806-21, 806

accommodation 820highlights 781holidays 820language 866public holidays 820telephone services 820tourist information 820travel to/from 820travel within 780, 820-1

Estonian language 866etiquette 23Eton 73-4events 27-31Evora 394, 475-6exchange rates 21, 854EXIT Festival 30, 607, 667

Ffado 465Faro 468-72, 469FC Barcelona 422ferries, see boat travelfestivals 27-31, 39, see also

music festivalsFigueres 427Fimmvörðuháls 149


87 7IN

DEX F- H

Finland 144-5, 172-85, 138-9

accommodation 184, 185

business hours 184climate 145costs 185cycling 145food 185highlights 144-5holidays 184language 866LGBT travellers 184money 184opening hours 184population 145public holidays 184religion 145telephone services 185travel to/from 185travel within 144, 185weather 145

Finnish language 866Firenze, see FlorenceFlåm 191-2flamenco 443Flanders 215Florence 492, 505-16,

506-7accommodation 510drinking 512food 511-12money 509nightlife 512planning 510sights 508-10tourist information 512travel to/from 512, 516travel within 516

food 23, see also individual locations

football 422Formentera 433fortresses

Ayasuluk Fortress (Selçuk) 576

Barbican (Warsaw) 714Brest Fortress 775Citadela (Budva) 638Festung Hohensalzburg

(Salzburg) 378Fortaleza de Sagres 474Kalemegdan Citadel

(Belgrade) 662Kremlin 784, 786-7,

786-7Minčeta Tower

(Dubrovnik) 625, 14Niš Fortress 668

Petrovaradin Citadel (Novi Sad) 666

Sighişoara Citadel 759Suomenlinna (Helsinki)

173Tower of London 61Tsarevets Fortress

(Veliko Târnovo) 679Tvrdina Kale Fortress

(Skopje) 655Vyšehrad Citadel

(Prague) 705France 298-9, 304-49,

296-7accommodation 348business hours 348climate 299costs 348discounts 349food 295highlights 298-9holidays 348internet resources 348itineraries 296-7language 866money 348opening hours 348population 299public holidays 348religion 299telephone services

348travel to/from 349travel within 298, 349visas 349weather 299

Frank, Anne 278Frankfurt 243Freiburg 243French language 866French Riviera 341-7Füssen 236-7

GGalicia 416galleries, see museums &

galleriesGalway 58, 124-6, 125gardens, see parks &

gardensGaudí, Antoni 417, 428gay travellers 852, see also

individual countriesGeirangerfjorden 146,

192-3gelato 529Geneva 350-3, 351Georgia 749, 748German language 866-7

Germany 212-3, 218-57, 210-11

accommodation 256business hours 256climate 213costs 256food 256highlights 212-13holidays 256itineraries 210-11language 866-7LGBT travellers 256money 256opening hours 256population 213public holidays 256religion 213telephone services 256travel to/from 256-7travel within 212, 256-7weather 213

Ghent 266-8, 267Giant’s Causeway 59,

131-2, 33Girona 426-8Glacier Express 301Glasgow 57, 99-103, 100-1glassware 500Glastonbury 77Glastonbury Festival 29, 77gluten-free travel 314Golden Circle (Iceland)

201-2Göreme 594-8Gospa od Škrpjela 643Göteborg 142-3, 168-9Gotland 169-70Granada 448-52, 449Grand Bazaar (İstanbul)

581Grand Canal (Venice) 514-

15, 12, 514-15Graz 303, 374-6, 375Great Britain 47, 51-136,

52-3, see also individual countries

accommodation 105business hours 105costs 106currency 51emergencies 51food 106highlights 105holidays 105-6internet resources 105itineraries 52-3languages 51LGBT travellers 105mobile phones 51

opening hours 105public holidays 105-6telephone services 106travel to/from 106travel within 106-7visas 51

Great Synagogue (Budapest) 696

Greece 494-5, 538-71, 490-1

accommodation 568business hours 569children, travel with 570climate 495consulates 568costs 568, 569customs regulations

567-8embassies 568emergencies 568etiquette 568-9highlights 494-5holidays 569internet access 569itineraries 490-1language 867LGBT travellers 569money 567, 569opening hours 569population 495public holidays 569religion 495safe travel 568telephone services 569time 489travel to/from 570travel within 494, 570-1visas 489. 570weather 495

Greek language 867Grindelwald 358-9Grossglockner Road 302-3

HHadrian’s Arch 544Hadrian’s Wall 55, 87Hague, the, see Den HaagHallstatt 381-2hamams 445, 583Hamburg 213, 251-5,

252-3Hardangerfjord 193health 852Heidelberg 240-1Helsingør 156Helsinki 144, 172-6, 174-5Hermitage 780, 794-5,

794-5

878

IND

EX H-K

hikingAbisko 170Algarve 468Camino de Santiago

414-5Cappadocia 596Cinque Terre 513Lapland 183Lofoten 194Portugal 480, 486Santorini 561Sigulda 829Swiss National Park 364Switzerland 358

Hill of Crosses 783, 844hitching 862Hitler, Adolf 219, 236Hitler’s Bunker 219holidays, see individual

countriesHolland, see Netherlandshomestays 851hostels 851, see also

individual locationshot springs

Bath 75Blue Lagoon 200Budapest 739, 2, 16Hungary 696Iceland 146Kalithea Thermi 566Lake Bled 732Rogner-Bad Blumau 376

Hotel-Dieu des Hospices de Beaune 332

hotels 851, see also individual locations

Hradčany 700Hungarian language 867Hungary 696-7, 738-47,

688-9accommodation 746business hours 746-7climate 697costs 746, 747food 697, 744, 747highlights 696-7holidays 747language 867money 746opening hours 746population 697public holidays 747religion 697telephone services 747

transport 696travel to/from 747travel within 696, 747weather 697

Hurtigruten coastal ferry 146, 191

Húsavík 206-7Hvar Island 606, 623-5

IIbiza 431-3, 432Iceland 148-9, 197-208,

148-9accommodation 207business hours 208climate 149costs 207food 207highlights 148-9holidays 208LGBT travellers 207money 208opening hours 208population 149public holidays 208religion 149telephone services 208travel to/from 208travel within 148, 208weather 149

Ieper, see YpresIhlara Valley 596, 597immigration 859Inari 184Inlandsbanan 143Innsbruck 303, 382-5,

383insurance 852, 861Interlaken 357-8internet access 852internet resources 21, 38,


accommodation 39health 852travellers with

disabilities 857Inverness 103-4Ireland 58-9, 108-36, 52-3

accommodation 134-5business hours 135climate 59costs 135, 136food 136highlights 58-9, 134internet resources 135itineraries 52-3LGBT travellers 135

opening hours 135population 59public holidays 135religion 59telephone services

135-6travel to/from 136travel within 58, 136weather 59

islands 24-5Isle of Skye 57, 104-5İstanbul 19, 496, 578-88,

579, 580, 584-5, 19accommodation 583drinking 586-7festivals 582-3food 586-7money 582nightlife 586-7sights 579-82tourist information 587tours 582travel to/from 587travel within 587-8

Istria 628Italian language 867Italy 492-3, 498-538,

490-1accommodation 534children, travel with 536climate 493consulates 534costs 498, 534, 535discount cards 534electricity 534embassies 534emergencies 534etiquette 510, 534food 529, 535highlights 492-3holidays 535itineraries 490-1language 867legal matters 534LGBT travellers 535money 534, 535opening hours 535population 493religion 493telephone services 536time 489, 536tourist information 536transport 492travel to/from 537travel within 492, 537-8visas 536weather 493visas 489

itineraries 32-7Balkans 604-5Central & Eastern

Europe 688-9France, Switzerland &

Austria 296-7Germany, Belgium,

Luxembourg & Netherlands 210-11

Great Britain & Ireland 52-3

Italy, Greece & Turkey 490-1

Russia & the Baltic Coast 778-9

Scandinavia 138-9Spain & Portugal 390-1

JJewish sites

Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla 400

Dubrovnik Synangogue 627

Great Synagogue (Budapest) 696, 739

Jewish Museum (Prague) 705

Jewish Museum & Centre of Tolerance (Moscow) 785

Jewish Museums (Kraków) 722

Museu d’Història dels Jueus de Girona 427

Vilnius 835Warsaw 715,717

Jökulsárgljúfur 205, 205Jökulsárlón 148, 203Julian Alps 732-5Jungfraujoch 358, 45Juodkrantė 847Jūrmala 782, 827-8

KKaliningrad 802-3, 802Karneval 247Karst Region 735Kaunas 841-5, 842Kauppatori 173Kazimierz 693Kerry 123-4Kilkenny 58, 116-18, 117Killarney 121-3, 122Kiruna 170-1Kitzbühel 302, 385Klagenfurt 376-7Klaipėda 845-6, 845Klimt, Gustav 371


879IN

DEX K

-M

Konya 592-4, 593Koprivshtitsa 677Korčula 628Kosovo 661, 661Kotor 609, 640-2, 641Kraków 14, 692, 719-26,

720, 15Kremlin 784, 786-7. 786-7Kronborg Slot 141Kuldīga 830Kurshskaya Kosa National

Park 803Kutná Hora 708Kyiv 764-8, 766

LLa Lonja 433La Rambla 416La Sagrada Família 417,

418-19Lago di Lugano 301Lagos 472-4, 473Lahemaa National Park

781, 813Lake Balaton 697, 745Lake Bled 695Lake District National Park

54, 86-7Lake Geneva 301Lake Koman 650Lake Ohrid 611Lakeland 144, 182-3Lakenhalle 271lakes

Königssee 236Lago di Lugano 301Lago Maggiore 363Lake Balaton 697, 745Lake Bled 695Lake Geneva 350Lake Koman 650Lake Ohrid 611Lake Lucerne 359Lake Zürich 361Loch Lomond 57, 103Loch Ness 103-4

Landmannalaugar 204-5landmines 637languages 20, 864-71Lapland 145, 183-4Latvia 782-3, 821-33, 778-

9, 822accommodation 833climate 783costs 833food 833highlights 782-3holidays 833

language 868population 783public holidays 833religion 783telephone services 833transport 782travel to/from 833travel within 782, 833weather 783

Latvian language 868Lausanne 353-5, 354Le Clos Lucé 327Le Rocher 346legal matters 852-3Legoland 141, 158Leiden 284-5Leipzig 230-1, 231Lens 322León 412-13lesbian travellers 852, see

also individual countriesLeuven 262-3LGBT travellers 853, see

also individual countriesLienz 385-6Lille 320-1Lindos 567, 48Linz 373Lisbon 19, 394, 460-6,

462-3, 19Lithuania 782-3, 834-48,

778-9accommodation 847costs 847LGBT travellers 847highlights 782-3holidays 847language 868population 783public holidays 847telephone services 847travel to/from 847-8travel within 782, 848

Lithuanian language 868Ljubljana 694, 727-32, 730Locarno 363Loch Lomond 57, 103Loch Ness 103-4Lofoten 146, 194-5, 194Loire Valley 298, 325-8London 10, 60-73, 62-3,

65, 68, 70, 4, 10accommodation 65, 68-9drinking 70-1entertainment 71-2food 69-70markets 71nightlife 70-1

parks & gardens 69sights 60-5tourist information 72travel to/from 72travel within 72-3

Londonderry 132-4, 133Louvain, see LeuvenLouvre 308, 310-11, 310-11Lovćen National Park

643-4Lübeck 255Lucerne 359-60Lugano 363-7Lund 167Luxembourg 275-8

accommodation 277business hours 277costs 274, 277holidays 277itineraries 210-11LGBT travellers 277money 277opening hours 277public holidays 277telephone services 277-8travel to/from 278travel within 275

Luxembourg City 214-15, 275-7, 276

Lviv 769, 772-3Lyon 332-5, 334-5Lysefjord 189

MMaastricht 292-3Macedonia 610-11, 654-62,

604-5accommodation 660costs 660food 660highlights 610-11language 868money 660telephone services 660transport to/from 660-2travel within 610, 662

Macedonian language 868Mackintosh, Charles

Rennie 102Madrid 392, 396-402,

398-9Malá Strana 704Málaga 455-7, 456Mallorca 428-9, 429Malmö 167-8Manarola 513, 7Manchester 85-6maps 853

Mariinsky Theatre 780-1marijuana 853markets

Barcelona 416Berlin 221Cork 119Finland 144İstanbul 581Lille 320London 71Paris 309Rome 528Zagreb 614

Marseille 299, 338-40Matterhorn 300, 355-6,

4, 15Melnik 677-8memorials

Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial 321

Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer 220

Holocaust Memorial 219Memorial 1815 261Memorial Museum

Passchendale 1917 272

Memorium Nuremberg Trials 239

Menin Gate 271Mons Memorial Museum

273Ring of Remembrance

322Menorca 429-31, 430Meteora 494, 559, 42Mezquita 393Michelangelo 511, 522Minsk 775Mittelland 356-9Mljet 628mobile phones 20, 855, see

also individual countriesMoldova 762, 763Monaco 299, 346-7, 347monasteries

Cetinje Monastery (Montenegro) 645

Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik) 626-7

Franciscan Monastery (Dubrovnik) 625-6

Franciscan Monastery (Hvar Island) 624

Kyiv 764Meteora 494, 559, 42Moldavia 760Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

(Lisbon) 461

880

IND

EX M

monasteries continuedNovodevichy Convent

(Moscow) 785Painted Monasteries 760Portugal 477Rila Monastery 676Selime Monastery (Ihlara

Valley) 596St Francis Xavier

Monastery (Kaunas) 841

St Michael’s Monastery (Kyiv) 764

Studenica 667Monet, Claude 304money 20, 21, 853-4Mons 272-3Mont Blanc 336Mont St-Michel 298, 323Montenegro 608, 609,

638-47accommodation 645-6business hours 646costs 646food 646holidays 646opening hours 646public holidays 646safe travel 646telephone services 646tourist information 646travel to/from 647travel within 608, 647visas 647

Monterosso 513Moravia 710-12Morocco, travel to 455Moscow 784-93, 788-9,

770accommodation 790drinking 791entertainment 791-2food 790-1medical services 792nightlife 791shopping 792sights 784-5tours 785, 790travel to/from 792travel within 792-3

mosquesAya Sofya (İstanbul) 497,

574-5, 579, 574-5Et’hem Bey Mosque

(Tirana) 649

Mezquita (Córdoba) 443Mosque of Süleyman

(Rhodes) 565Süleymaniye Mosque

(İstanbul) 581Mostar 608, 634-7, 636mountains

Accursed Mountains 650Grossglockner 386Harder Kulm 357Julian Alps 732-5Jungfraujoch 358Matterhorn 300, 355-6,

4, 15Mont Blanc 336Mt Lovćen 643Mt Triglav 694, 733

Mozart 378-9Mt Lovćen 643Mt Triglav 694, 733Mucha, Alfons 705Munich 213, 231-5, 232-3museums & galleries

Acropolis Museum 544Albertina (Vienna) 367Alte Pinakothek

(Munich) 233Anne Frank Huis

(Amsterdam) 278Antalya Museum 571ARoS Aarhus

Kunstmuseum 158Ashmolean Museum

(Oxford) 78Astrup Fearnley Museet

(Oslo) 185Atomium (Brussels)

260Bach-Museum Leipzig

230Basilica di Santa Croce

(Florence) 509-10Benaki Museum

(Athens) 550BMW Museum (Munich)

234British Museum 60Byzantine & Christian

British Museum (London) 60

Casa Museu Dalí (Girona) 427

Centre Pompidou (Paris) 308

Centre Pompidou Málaga 455

Centro de Arte Reina Sofía 396

Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla 440

Centro Flamenco Fosforito (Córdoba) 444-5

Chester Beatty Library 108-9

Delphi Museum 557Deutsches Historiches

Museum (Berlin) 218-19

Ephesus Museum 576-7Ermita de San Antonio

de la Florida 396Escher in Het Paleis

Museum (Den Haag) 286

Fondation Beyeler (Basel) 360

Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence) 508

Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence) 510

Gallerie dell’Accademia (Venice) 498

Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Rome) 525

Gemäldegalerie (Berlin) 219-20

Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Dresden) 228

Goldenes Dachl Museum (Innsbruck) 382

Göreme Open-Air Museum 594-6

Groeningemuseum (Bruges) 268

Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes (Seville) 439

Hamburger Kunsthalle 252-4

Haus der Musik (Vienna) 370

Hermitage 780, 794-5, 794-5

Historial de la Grande Guerre (The Somme) 321

Historisches Grünes Gewölbe (Dresden) 228

Historisches Museum Bern 357

Hotel des Invalides (Paris) 304

Hungarian National Gallery 738

Icelandic Phallological Museum 197

İstanbul Archaeology Museums 581

İstanbul Modern 581Jorvik Viking Centre

(York) 83

K20 Grabbeplatz (Düsseldorf) 249

K21 Ständehaus (Düsseldorf) 249-50

Kaiserliche Schatzkammer (Vienna) 367

Kiasma (Helsinki) 173Klimt Villa (Vienna) 371Kunsthaus (Zurich) 361Kunsthaus Graz 374Kunsthistorisches

Museum (Vienna) 371La Cité du Vin

(Bordeaux) 337La Piscine Musée d’Art

et d’Industrie (Lille) 320

Leopold Museum (Vienna) 370

Louisiana (Copenhagen) 150

Louvre-Lens 322MACBA (Barcelona) 416Maison de la Magie

(Blois) 326Malmö Museer 167Maritiem Museum

Rotterdam 288Matterhorn Museum

356Mauritshuis (Den Haag)

286Memorial Museum

Passchendale 1917 272

Metropol Parasol (Seville) 440

Mevlâna Museum (Konya) 592

MIM (Brussels) 260Mons Memorial Museum

273Mozarts Geburtshaus

(Salzburg) 378Mozart-Wohnhaus

(Salzburg) 379MUMOK (Vienna) 370-1Munchmuseet 186-7Musée d’Art et d’Histoire

Baron Gérard (Bayeux) 322

Musée d’Art Moderne, d’Art Contemporain et d’Art Brut - LaM (Lille) 320

Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Nice) 343

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Dijon) 330

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Lyon) 333


881IN

DEX M

-N

Musée des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée (Marseille) 338-9

Musée des Confluences (Lyon) 333

Musée d’Histoire de la Ville de Luxembourg 275

Musée d’Orsay (Paris) 305

Musée du Cinquantenaire (Brussels) 260

Musée du Louvre (Paris) 308, 310-11, 310-11

Musée du Quai Branly (Paris) 304

Musée International de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge (Geneva) 350

Musée Magritte (Brussels) 257

Musée Marmottan Monet (Paris) 304

Musée Masséna (Nice) 343

Musée Matisse (Nice) 343

Musée National Picasso (Paris) 308

Musée Océanographique de Monaco 346

Musée Olympique (Lausanne) 353

Musée Rodin (Paris) 304Musées Royaux des

Beaux-Arts (Brussels) 257

Museo Carmen Thyssen (Málaga) 455

Museo de Bellas Artes (Bilbao) 407

Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville) 439

Museo das Peregrinacións e de Santiago 415

Museo de Art Nouveau y Art Decó (Salamanca) 411

Museo de Cádiz 452Museo de la Evolución

Humana (Burgos) 409Museo del Bargello

(Florence) 509Museo del Prado

(Madrid) 396Museo di San Marco 510Museo e Galleria

Borghese (Rome) 525Museo Guggenheim

(Bilbao) 407

Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia (Rome) 525

Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 527

Museo Picasso Málaga 455

Museo Thyssen- Bornemisza (Madrid) 396

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (Lisbon) 461

Museu do Fado 460Museu d’Història dels

Jueus de Girona 427Museu Nacional d’Art

de Catalunya (MNAC) (Barcelona) 417, 422

Museu Picasso (Barcelona) 417

Museum Boijmans van Beuningen (Rotterdam) 288

Museum der Bildenden Künste (Leipzig) 230

Museum der Moderne (Salzberg) 379

Museum het Rembrandthuis (Amsterdam) 278

Museum Jean Tinguely (Basel) 360

Museum Ludwig (Cologne) 247

Museum of Anatolian Civilisations (Ankara) 588

Museum of Broken Relationships (Zagreb) 614

Museum of Contemporary Art (Zagreb) 614

Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts (İstanbul) 579-80

Museum Plantin-Moretus (Antwerp) 264-5

Museum Sammlung Rosengart (Lucerne) 359

Museum St-Janshospitaal (Bruges) 268

MuseumsQuartier (Vienna) 370

Nasjonalgalleriet (Oslo) 186

National Archaeological Museum (Athens) 545

National Gallery (Dublin) 109

National Gallery (London) 60-1

National Museum of Contemporary Art (Athens) 550

National Museum of Montenegro 644

National Museum of Scotland (Edinburgh) 97

National Museum (Reykjavík) 197

National Portrait Gallery (London) 61

Natural History Museum (London) 64

Neue Galerie Graz 374Neue Pinakothek

(Munich) 233-4Neues Museum

(Berlin) 219Palais des Beaux Arts

(Lille) 320Palais du Tau 328Palazzo Vecchio

(Florence) 508, 509Peggy Guggenheim

Collection (Venice) 498

Pergamonmuseum (Berlin) 219

Prague Jewish Museum 705

Reykjavík 871±2: The Settlement Exhibition 199

Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 278

Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Cologne) 247

Rubenshuis (Antwerp) 265

Russian Museum (St Petersburg) 793

Salzburg Museum 378Skansen (Stockholm) 161State Hermitage

Museum (St Petersburg) 793

Statens Museum for Kunst (Copenhagen) 150

Svrzo House (Sarajevo) 630-1

Tate Modern (London) 64

Teatre-Museu Dalí (Girona) 427

Tiroler Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum (Innsbruck) 382

Titanic Belfast 127Topkapı Palace

(İstanbul) 580Tower of London 61Tunnel Museum

(Sarajevo) 631Van Gogh Museum

(Amsterdam) 278Vatican Museums 522-3,

523Vermeer Centrum Delft

287Victoria & Albert

Museum (London) 64Vikingskipshuset (Oslo)

185-6Zeitgeschichtliches

Forum (Leipzig) 230Zentrum Paul Klee

(Bern) 357music 26, 465

Greece 55Portugal 465

music festivals 141, 145Brussels Jazz

Marathon 28Copehagen Jazz Festival

151EXIT Festival 30, 607,

667Glastonbury Festival

29, 77Iceland Airwaves 31, 199Þjóðhátíð 203Roskilde Festival 29-30,

157Ruisrock 177Savonlinna Opera

Festival 182Sziget Music Festival 30

mustard 330Mývatn 206

Nnational parks & reserves,

see also parks & gardens

Abisko National Park 170Connemara National

Park 126Curonian Spit National

Park 846-7Durmitor National Park

609, 645Gauja National Park

782, 828Hohe Tauern National

Park 386Ķemeri National Park

827Killarney National Park

122

882

IND

EX N-P

national parks & reserves continued

Kurshskaya Kosa National Park 803

Lahemaa National Park 781, 813

Lake District National Park 86-7

Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park 103

Lovćen National Park 643

Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park 183

Parc National des Calanques 339

Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês 395, 486-7, 486

Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa 413

Parque Natural da Ria Formosa 472

Pelister National Park 659

Plitvice Lakes National Park 607, 618, 770-1

Snowdonia National Park 88-9

Swiss National Park 301, 364

Triglav National Park 733Urho Kekkonen National

Park 183Vatnajökull National Park

(Jökulsárgljúfur) 148-9, 205, 205, 25

Žemaitija National Park 846

Nazaré 477-8Nesebâr 682Netherlands 216-17, 278-

94, 210-11accommodation 293business hours 294costs 293climate 217cycling 216food 293highlights 216-17holidays 294itineraries 210-11language 865legal matters 293LGBT travellers 293money 293-4

opening hours 294population 217public holidays 294religion 217travel to/from 294travel within 216, 294weather 217

Nice 298, 341-4, 342Nida 847nightlife 26, see also

individual locationsNiš 668-9Normandy 322-3Norrland 170-1Northern Ireland 127-34northern lights, see aurora

borealisNorway 146-7. 185-97,

138-9accommodation 196business hours 196climate 147costs 196food 196highlights 146-7holidays 196language 868LGBT travellers 196money 196opening hours 196population 147public holidays 196religion 147telephone services 196travel to/from 196-7travel within 146, 196-7weather 147

Norwegian language 868Notting Hill Carnival 30Nové Město 704-5Novi Pazar 667Novi Sad 666-7Nuremberg 239-40

OÓbidos 476-7Odense 157-8Odesa 769Ohrid 656-8, 657Oia 561, 34-5Oktoberfest 31, 213, 235Olympos 576opening hours, see

individual countriesOslo 147, 185-8, 186-7Östersund 170Oxford 54, 77-80, 79oysters 325

Ppaella 438palaces, see castles &

palacesPalatino 516Palma de Mallorca 428-9Pamplona 408Panathenaic Stadium 545Pantheon (Rome) 523Panthéon (Paris) 305Paris 10, 304-17, 306-7,

312-13, 316, 4, 11accommodation 309discount cards 305drinking 315entertainment 316-17food 309-15nightlife 315sights 304-9tourist information 317travel to/from 317travel within 317

parks & gardensGiardini Pubblici

(Locarno) 363Gorky Park (Moscow)

785Hyde Park (London) 69Jardin Anglais (Geneva)

350Jardin des Tuileries

(Paris) 308Jardin du Luxembourg

304Kadriorg Park (Tallinn)

810Kensington Gardens

(London) 69Łazienki Park (Warsaw)

715Memento Park

(Budapest) 738-9Musée Rodin (Paris) 304Park Güell (Barcelona)

422Villa Borghese (Rome)

525-7Vondelpark (Amsterdam)

279, 41Windsor Great Park 73

Pärnu 781, 817-20, 818Parque Nacional da

Peneda-Gerês 395, 486-7, 486

Peja 661Pelister National Park

659-60Perast 609, 642-3Peterhof 801phonecards 855

Piazza di Spagna 523Piazza Navona 523Piazza San Marco 498Picasso, Pablo 308, 417,

455Piccadilly Circus 61pintxos 406Piran 694, 735-6planning 22-3, 38

budgeting 21calendar of events 27-31Europe basics 20-1internet resources 21itineraries 32transport 43-6travel seasons 20

Plateia Syntagmatos 550Plitvice Lakes National

Park 607, 618, 770-1Plovdiv 612-13, 674-7, 674Poland 692-3, 714-27,

698-9accommodation 726business hours 726climate 693costs 726food 693, 726highlights 692-3holidays 726language 869money 726opening hours 726population 693public holidays 726religion 693telephone services 726-7travel to/from 727travel within 692, 727weather 693

Polish language 869Pompeii 493, 531, 532-3,

25, 532-3Pont du Gard 341Ponte Vecchio 509porcelain 287Porto 394-5, 481-5, 482-3,

554Portugal 364-5, 460-88,

390-1accommodation 487business hours 487climate 395costs 487currency 389emergencies 389food 487highlights 394-5holidays 487-8language 869


883IN

DEX P

-S LGBT travellers 487money 487opening hours 487population 395public holidays 487-8religion 395telephone services 488time 389travel to/from 488travel within 394, 488weather 395

Portuguese language 869Porvoo 177postal services 854, see

also individual countries

Postojna Cave 695, 736Potsdam 228Potsdamer Platz 219Prague 15, 700-8, 701,

702-3, 2, 15, 771accommodation 705drinking 706-7entertainment 707food 705-6nightlife 706-7sights 700-5tourist information 707travel to/from 707-8travel within 707, 713

Prague Castle 690-1, 700, 701

Preikestolen 147Pristina 661Prizren 661Provence 338-41public holidays 761-2,


Pula 628Pulpit Rock 147

QQuimper 323Quinta da Regaleira 466

Rracism 854Red Light District 279Red Square 780, 784Reichsparteitagsgelände

240Reichstag 218Reims 328-9Rembrandt 279-8Reykjahlíð 206Reykjavík 149, 197-201,

198-9

Rhine River 243-6, 244-5, 290-1

Rhodes 495, 562-7, 563, 48

Rhodes Town 564-7, 564-5

Rīga 782, 821-7, 824Rila Monastery 676Rila Mountains 676Ring of Kerry 123-4Riomaggiore 513, 554-5road rules 862Rock of Cashel 59, 119Roman Forum 517, 518-9,

17, 518-19Roman remains

Athens 544Bath 75Cologne 247Ephesus 578, 555Evora 475-6Hadrian’s Wall 87Macedonia 659Plovdiv 675Pompeii 493, 531, 532-3,

25, 532-3Pont du Gard 341Pula 628Rome 516-17, 518-19, 17,

518-19Selçuk 577Split 619, 621Trier 246Varna 681York 84

Romania 688-9, 749-64, 750

accommodation 761business hours 761climate 699costs 761food 761highlights 698-9holidays 761-2language 869money 761opening hours 761population 699religion 699telephone services 762transport 698travel to/from 763-4travel within 688, 764weather 699

Romanian language 869

Romantic Rhine 212, 243-5, 290-1

Romantic Road, the 236-9

Rome 17, 492, 516-31, 517, 520-1, 524, 526-7, 17

accommodation 528-9discount cards 525drinking 529-40food 529nightlife 529-40safe travel 530sights 516-28tourist information 530travel to/from 530-1travel within 531

Ronda 457-8Roskilde 156-7Rothenburg ob der Tauber

237Rotterdam 217, 288-92,

289Rovaniemi 183-4Rovinj 617-19Royal Mile (Edinburgh)

90-1, 90-1ruins 24, see also Roman

remains, individual locations

Running of the Bulls 30, 408

Russia 780-1, 784-806, 778-9

accommodation 803business hours 803climate 781costs 803, 804food 804highlights 780-1holidays 804itineraries 778-9language 869-70LGBT travellers 804money 804opening hours 803population 781public holidays 804religion 781safe travel 804telephone services 804transport 780travel to/from 805travel within 780, 805-6visas 805weather 781

Russian language 869-70

Ssafe travel 23, 854-5

Athens 553Bosnia & Hercegovina

637Greece 568

Montenegro 646Russia 804Serbia 669Turkey 598-9

Sagres 474-5Salamanca 410-12, 411Salisbury 74-5Salzburg 302, 377-80, 378Salzkammergut 303, 381-2Sámi culture 145, 184San Sebastián 404-6, 405sand dunes 338Santa Claus 182Santiago de Compostela

414-16, 414Santorini 13, 495, 558-62,

560, 13, 34-5Sarajevo 608, 630-4, 632saunas 144-5, 181Savonlinna 182-3scams 855Scandinavia 47, 137-208,


itineraries 138-9Schengen Agreement 856Schloss Neuschwanstein

212Schlossberg 374Scotland 56-7, 89-107,

52-3, see also Great Britain

climate 57highlights 56-7population 57transport 56weather 57

Selçuk 576-8, 577Semana Santa 441Serbia 606-7, 662-70,

604-5accommodation 669costs 669, 670food 670highlights 606-7language 864-5LGBT travellers 669money 670population 607safe travel 669telephone services 670travel to/from 670travel within 606, 670visas 670

Serbian language 864-5Seville 393, 439-43, 440Shakespeare, William 80-1Shkodra 650Sighişoara 758-61, 759

884

IND

EX S-T

Sigulda 828-30, 829SIM cards 855Sintra 394, 466-7Sistine Chapel 522Skaftafell 205, 204, 25Skagen 141, 159-60Skellig Michael 123skiing

Austria 385, 386Sweden 143

Skógar 204Skopje 611, 654-6, 654Skye 57, 104-5Slovak language 870Slovakia 714Slovene language 870Slovenia 694-5, 727-38,

728accommodation 695,

736-7business hours 737climate 695costs 737food 695, 737highlights 694-5holidays 737language 870money 737opening hours 737population 695public holidays 737religion 695telephone services 737travel to/from 737-8travel within 694, 738weather 695

Smiltynė 847smoking 348, 853Snowdonia 56, 88-9soccer 422Sofia 670-4, 672-3Sognefjorden 191-2, 192Sound of Music, The 377,

380Sozopol 683-4, 683, 23Spain 392-3, 396-460,

390-1accommodation 458area codes 389beaches 393budgeting 459business hours 459climate 393currency 389

discount cards 458emergencies 389food 389, 401, 402,

406, 438highlights 392-3holidays 459itineraries 390-1language 870LGBT travellers 458-9money 459opening hours 459population 393public holidays 459religion 393telephone services

459time 389travel to/from 459-60travel within 392, 460weather 393

Spanish language 870Spanish Steps 523Split 606, 619-23, 620St Goar 245St Goarshausen 245St Moritz 352St Petersburg 13, 793-801,

796, 13accommodation

799-800activities 798-9drinking 800entertainment 800food 800nightlife 800sights 793-5, 798tourist information

801tours 799travel to/from 801travel within 801

St Peter’s Square 522Staré Město 700-4Stari Most 634Stavanger 188-9Steiermark 376St-Malo 324-5Stockholm 142, 161-6,

162-3, 95Stonehenge 54, 74Stratford-upon-Avon 55,

80-1St-Tropez 345-6Styria 376Subotica 667-8surfing 474Sveti Ðorđe 643Svetlogorsk 803

Svolvær 194Sweden 142-3, 161-72,


172business hours 171-2climate 143costs 172food 172highlights 142-3holidays 172language 870-1LGBT travellers 171money 171opening hours 171-2population 143public holidays 172religion 143telephone services 172travel to/from 172travel within 142, 172weather 143

Swedish language 870-1Swiss National Park 301Switzerland 300-1, 350-66,


365climate 301costs 365electricity 365food 365highlights 300-1holidays 365internet resources 365money 365opening hours 365population 301religion 301telephone services 365travel to/from 366travel within 300, 366visas 365weather 301

synagoguesChoral Synagogue

(Vilnius) 835Dubrovnik 625Great Synagogue

(Budapest) 739Prague 705

TTallinn 18, 781, 806-14,

808-9, 18Tampere 179-81, 180Tarifa 454-5Tartu 781, 814-17

taxes 854taxis 863telephone services 20, 629,


Temple of Artemis 577Temple of Olympian Zeus

544Temple of Poseidon 545Temple to Athena 545Ţepeş, Vlad 757, 760terrorism 855Thames, River 66-7,

66-7theft 855thermal springs, see hot

springÞórsmörk 205 Ticino 363-4time zones 20, 856, see

also individual chapters

tipping 23Tirana 610, 647-51, 648toilets 856Toledo 402-4, 403Tomar 395Torre de Belém 461tourist information 856,

see also individual locations

Trafalgar Square 61train travel 44, 863, see

also individual countries

Glacier Express 352Gornergratbahn 356Jungfraujoch 358

Trakai 840Transylvania 699, 755-61,

754-5travellers cheques 854travel passes

air 43bus 44-6rail 44

travel to/from Europe 859-60

travel within Europe 860-3

Trevi Fountain 523Trier 246Trinity College (Dublin)

92-3, 108, 112, 16, 92-3

Tromsø 147, 195-6Trondheim 193-4Tsarskoe Selo 801-2tulips 284Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

885IN

DEX T- W

Turkey 496-7, 571-602, 490-1

accommodation 598business hours 600children, travel with 600climate 497consulates 599costs 598, 599electricity 599embassies 599emergencies 599-602etiquette 599food 589, 599highlights 496-7holidays 600itineraries 490-1language 871LGBT travellers 599money 598, 599-600opening hours 600population 497public holidays 600religion 497safe travel 598-9telephone services 600time 489travel to/from 601travel within 496, 601-2visas 600-1weather 497women travellers 601visas 489

Turkish language 871Turku 176-9, 178Tyne Cot 272Tyrol 382-6

UUkraine 764-76, 688-9

accommodation 773business hours 774costs 773, 774food 765, 774holidays 774internet access 775language 871money 773-4opening hours 774public holidays 774telephone services 774-5travel to/from 775-6travel within 776

Ukrainian language 871Unesco World Heritage

SitesAlhambra 392, 446-7.

448-9, 446-7

Banks of the Seine 308

Belfort 266Berat 651-2Bern 356-7Bordeaux 337-8Cinque Terre 493, 513,

7, 554-5Curonian Spit National

Park 846-7Danube Valley 373Diocletian’s Palace

619, 621Dubrovnik 606, 625-9Geirangerfjorden 146,

192-3Giant’s Causeway 59,

131-2Goreme Open-Air

Museum 594-6Hallstatt 381-2Innere Stadt (Vienna)

367Kaliningrad Cathedral

802Kraków Old Town

721-2Kurshskaya Kosa

National park 803Kutná Hora 708La Lonja 433Luxembourg Old Town

275Lviv 769, 772-3Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

461Museum Plantin-

Moretus 264Nesebâr 682Palais du Tau 328Plitvice Lakes National

Park 607, 618, 770-1

Pompeii 493, 531, 532-3, 25, 532-3

Porto 394-5, 481-5, 482-3, 554

Potsdam 228Rhodes Old Town

564-5Salzburg Old Town 377Sighişoara Citadel 759Sintra-Vila 466Skellig Michael 123Speicherstadt 254Stari Most 634Studenica 667Torre de Belém 461Vienna 367

Visby 169Würzburg Residenz

238-9Uppsala 166-7

Vvaccinations 852Valais 355-6Valencia 433-9, 434-5,

436Van Gogh, Vincent 278Varna 680-2, 681Vasamuseet 143Vatnajökull National Park

(Jökulsárgljúfur) 148-9, 205, 205, 25

Veliko Târnovo 612, 678-80, 679

Venice 12, 492, 498-505, 499, 500-1, 502-3, 12

accommodation 502-4

costs 505drinking 504-5entertainment 504-5festivals 502food 504sights 498-500tourist information

505tours 500-1travel to/from 505travel within 504, 505

Ventspils 832-3Vernazza 513Versailles 318-19, 320,

318-19Vestmannaeyjar 202-4Vienna 18, 302, 367-74,

368-9, 18, 290accommodation 371-2discount cards 367drinking 372-3festivals 371food 372nightlife 372-3sights 367-71tourist information

373travel to/from 373-4travel within 374

Vieux Nice 341Vieux Port 338Viking sites

Jorvik Viking Centre (York) 83

Reykjavík 871±2 199

Viking Ship Museum (Roskilde) 157

Vikingskipshuset (Oslo) 185

Vilnius 783, 834-40, 836visas 20, 856, 857, see also

indvidual countriesSchengen visas 856

Visby 142, 169vodka 693volunteering 857Vorarlberg 386

WWales 56-7, 87-9, 52-3, see

also Great Britainhighlights 56-7language 57population 57transport 56

walks, see hikingWarsaw 692, 693, 714-

19, 716water 852waterfalls

Gullfoss 202Hohe Tauern National

Park 386Rheinfall 361Skógafoss 204Triberger Wasserfälle

242Ventas Rumba 830

weather 20, 27-31websites, see internet

resourcesWestern Fjords 188-93Westfjords 149whirling dervishes 587whisky 57Wieliczka Salt Mine

693Windsor 73-4wine 337, 484, see

also ChampagneBulgaria 613, 678festivals 31Lavaux 353

women travellers 857-8work 857, 858Würzburg 238-9WWI sites

D-Day beaches 323In Flanders Fields 271Mons Memorial Museum

273The Somme 321-2Ypres 271, 272

886

IND

EX W-Z

WWII sites 219Anne Frank Huis 278Dachau 234Fromelles (Pheasant

Wood) Cemetery & Museum 322

Frauenkirche 228Memorium Nuremberg

Trials 239Reichsparteitagsgelände

240US Military Cemetery

275

YYork 54-5, 82-5, 83Ypres 271-2

ZZagreb 607, 614-17, 616

Žemaitija National Park 846

Zermatt 15, 355-6Zugspitze 236Zürich 300, 361-2Zytglogge 356


Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

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894

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Tube station

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book


Map Legend


© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

Andy SymingtonScandinavia, Germany & Benelux, Spain & Portugal Andy hails from Australia but has been living in Spain for 15 years, where, to shatter a couple of stereotypes of the country, he can frequently be found huddled in sub-zero temperatures watch-ing the tragically poor local football team. He has authored and co-authored many LP guidebooks and other publications on Spain and elsewhere; in his spare time he walks in the mountains, embarks on epic tapas trails, and co-bosses a rock bar.

Nicola WilliamsFrance, Switzerland & Austria British writer and editorial consultant Nicola Wil-liams has lived in France and written about it for more than a decade. From her hillside house on the southern shore of Lake Geneva, it’s an easy hop to Paris where she has spent endless years revelling in its extraordinary art, urban archi-tecture, boutique shopping and cuisine. Nicola has worked on numerous titles for Lonely Planet, including France and Discover France. Find Nicola on Twitter at @Tripalong.


Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541539th edition – October 2016ISBN 978 1 78657 113 7© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSMark BakerCentral & Eastern Europe Mark Baker is an independent travel writer based in Prague. He’s lived in Central Europe for more than 20 years, working as a writer and editor for the Economist, Bloomberg and Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty, and is an enthusiastic traveller throughout the region. He’s author of several Lonely Planet guides, including Prague & the Czech Republic, Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania, Romania & Bulgaria, Poland and Slovenia. Tweet him @markbaker prague.

Tom MastersBalkans Tom has been travelling in Eastern Europe since the early ’90s when, as a young teenager, he travelled by train across the newly liberated ‘Eastern Bloc’ with his mother, an experience not unlike a Graham Greene novel. Having studied Russian and lived in St Petersburg, and currently residing in the former East Berlin, Tom knows this part of the world like few others, though it constantly manages to surprise him. You can find more of his work at www.tommasters.net.

Korina MillerItaly, Greece & Turkey Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been explor-ing the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies and an MA in Migration Studies en route. Korina has written nearly 40 titles for Lonely Planet and also works as a children’s writing coach.

Simon RichmondGreat Britain & Ireland, Russia & the Baltic Coast, and Plan and Survival Guide chapters UK-born writer and photographer Simon’s first taste of continental Europe was on a family holiday to Mallorca in the 1970s. Many subsequent Euro trips have followed including work assignments to, among other places, the Baltic States, Belgium and Portugal. Simon is co-author of Lonely Planet’s Russia and Trans-Siberian Railway guides. Read more about Simon’s travels at www.simonrichmond.com and on Twitter and Instagram @simonrichmond.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS


© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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