P R E S S R E L E A S E F 0 R I M M E D I A T E R E L E A S E July 14, 2018

VITTORIOSELLA

SEVEREREALITYANDREWSMITHGALLERY’SFAREWELLEXHIBIT

INSANTAFEe

WesternHimalayaandtheKarakoramExpedition

toK2,1909,sponsoredbytheDukeoftheAbruzzi,LuigiAmedeodiSavoia

PhotographsbyVittorioSella

ExhibitDates:Friday,July27,2018–September1,2018

“Icanseefixedonpaperthevisionofalostinstant,IrecognizescenesIhadnotbeen

abletoadmireonthespot.And,insuchdetails,Isometimesfindtheelementsof

beauty.Thetoilandaccidentsofaclimboftenblindoureyestothebeautyofthe

highestregions.Ourmindcannotretainatruenotionoftheviewsweadmired.We

knowwefeltuptherethestrongestemotions,werememberbutdimlythetruthofthe

siteswhichfascinatedoursenses.Photographyhelpstochoose,todetail,andto

idealizesuchelementsascanformabeautifulalpinescene.”

~Fromtheessay“PicturingtheSublime:ThePhotographsofVittorioSella”byWendy

M.WatsoninSummit:VittorioSellaMountaineerandPhotographerTheYears1879-

1909

“Geologicalevolutionisproceedingwithsuchobviousplainnessthatthetravelerfeels

as though he were beholding a country in a state of formation and witnessing the

modeling of the earth’s crust. The slowwork of the waters hollows out gorges and

hewstheirwalls intonewshapes,almostunderone’seyes,withsuchactivityandon

suchascalethatnothingelsewherecanbecomparedwithit....”

~Karakoram&WesternHimalaya1909byFilippiDeFilippo,(1912)

AFarewellExhibitinSantaFe

AndrewSmithGallery,upstairsat122GrantAve.,SantaFe,NM87501,

bringstoaclose33yearsofbeingSantaFe’smostdistinguishedfineart

photographygallery,withanexhibitofphotographsbyVittorioSella

(1859-1943),therenownedItalianmountaineeringphotographer.The

photographsonexhibitarefromSella’slegendary1909trektothe

KarakoramintheHimalayas,ajourneyofunthinkablecomplexity,

enduranceandartisticfortitude.Theyareverylikelythefinest

documentsofamountainrangeevermadebythegreatest

mountaineeringphotographerinthehistoryofphotography.Drawing

onfortyyearsofexperienceasamountainclimber,technicianand

artist,SellacapturedK2anditsretinueofmassivepeaks,alongthe

BaltoroGlacier,fromallsidesandinallmoods.Hisgroundbreaking

worksofartfromtheAlps,theCaucasus,Africa,Alaska,andthe

HimalayasinfluencedVictorianaesthetics,andfurtheredscientific

studiesinthefieldsofanthropology,cartography,meteorologyand

botany.AsphotographicworksofarttheywerehighlyadmiredbyAnsel

Adams.TheexhibitopensonJuly27,2018andrunsthroughSeptember

1,2018.

HK.2001–K2-28,250feet.KarakoramHimalayasatsunrise.K2asseenfromthe

eastfromtherocksaboveCampVI

“TheappearanceofK2isquitechanged;ithasbecomeamountainofice...Thewall,

ataverysteepangleofinclination,isliveicefor7,000feetup,andcrownedwith

séracs.Itisabsolutelyinaccessible.”FDFp.258

The42printKarakoramcollectionispartofamuchlargecollectionof

600VittorioSella'sthatareownedbytheAppalachianMountainClub,

ofBoston,America’soldestenvironmentalorganization,whose

founderswerecolleaguesandfriendsofSellainthe1880s.Itisthe

mostimportantcollectionofSella’sworkoutsideofItaly.

HK.291-Srinagar,capitalofKashmir.MohammedanTemple

“DuringthelongperiodofMohammedandomination,thecapitalcitywasknownas

Kashmir,butwhenitfellintothepoweroftheSikhsitresumeditsancientHinduname

ofSrinagar.Ithasapopulationofabout130,000andstandsalmostinthecentreofthe

plainataheightof5,303feet,uponthebanksoftheJhelum,whichflowsthroughitin

asweepingcurve.”FDFp.34

ThisfinalexhibitinSantaFeisinkeepingwithAndrewSmithGallery’s

decadeslongtraditionofbeingtheleadinginternationalsourcefor

importantgeologicalandtopographicalcollectionsofthehighestartistic

calibermadeinthe19thand20thcenturybyluminarieslikeCarleton

Watkins,TimothyO’Sullivan,AlexanderGardner,WilliamHenryJackson

andAnselAdams.AndrewSmithGallery’scontributiontotheartsof

SantaFecannotbeunderestimated.ThegallerybroughttoSantaFe

themostcomprehensivecollectionofAnselAdamsphotographsever

amassed.ItexhibitedworkbysuchlegendaryartistsasAnnieLeibovitz,

YousufKarsh,HenriCartier-Bresson,DuaneMichals,FlorGarduño,

ArnoldNewman,ElliottErwitt,JudyChicago,ChristopherBurkett,

HermanLeonard,JerryUelsmann,ShellyNiro,O.WinstonLink,Shelia

Metzner,BillWittliff,RayMetzker,LeeFriedlander,BaronWolman,and

PaulCaponigro,manyofwhomattendedopeningsoftheirwork.It

exhibitedworld-renownedphotographers,manyofwhommadeNew

MexicoandtheSouthwesttheirhomelikeLauraGilpin,EliotPorter,

BeaumontNewhall,VanDerenCoke,AnneNoggle,WalterChappell,

WilliamChristenberry,PatrickNagatani,JackSpencer,TomBarrow,

BettyHahn,JoanMyers,DannyLyon,ZigJackson,AnneNoggle,Joel-

PeterWitkin,JodyForster,RolfKoppel,AlanRoss,JulyChicago,Victor

Masayesva,ZigJackson,HulleahTsinhnahjinnie,MiguelGandert,Oscar

Lozoya,ElliottMcDowell,DuaneMonczewski,LisaLaw,PhilBorges,

JamesBalog,DelilahMontoya,BarbaraVanCleve,andDavidMichael

Kennedy.Fornearlyhalfacenturythegalleryhasbrokeredimportant

collections,soldhundredsofthousandsoffineartphotographsto

individualsandcollectors,andbeenaninvaluableeducationalresource

forvisitors,artists,teachers,students,andartlovers.TheGallerywill

berelocatingtoTucson,Arizonainthefall/winter.

HK.13–DrasValleybelowKarah.Apricotsinblossominanoasis.

TheDrasriverwasfollowedbythepartyonitswaytotheKarakorammountains.It

emptiesintotheupperIndusandhassomesettlementsalongitscourse.P.78

VittoriaSella's1909ExpeditiontotheKarakoram

WhenVittorioSelladiedatageeighty-fourin1943,hehadmadeone

lastattempttoclimbtheMatterhornin1935attheageofseventy-six;

anendeavorthatfailedonlybecauseoneofhisguidessufferedan

injury.Bythen,thepioneerofalpinephotographyhadclimbedand

photographedthehighestpeaksintheEuropeanAlps,theCaucasus

(Russia/Georgia),Mt.SaintElias(AlaskaYukonBorder),theHimalayas

Sikkim,theAfricanRwenzori(Uganda),andtheHimalayan

Karakoram.Ina1946articlefortheSierraClubBulletinAnselAdams

wrote,“...withSella’ssensitiveinsightandresponsethemagnificence

ofmountainsisdistilledintoahighorderofexpression.”“The

contemporaryphotographerwoulddowelltostudySella’scraft.”

HK.1000–TheIndusValleyBelowParkutta.AcultivatedalluvialbelowTarkuttap.

101

VittorioSellawasbornin1859intoawealthy,politicallyinfluential

familyinthePiedmonttownofBiella,Italy.Asaboyhisclassicalstudies

includedGreekandLatinalongwithpaintinglessons,inwhichhe

excelled.Hewasintroducedtotherecentlyinventedartofphotography

byhisfather,atextilemillownernamedVenanzioGiuseppeSellaand

hisuncle,QuintinoSella,afamousItalianministeroffinance,bothof

whomwereenthusiastsofthenewart.In1856,Venanziopublisheda

treatiseonphotographythatwastranslatedintoGermanandFrench

andwasincludedinRoret'sEncyclopedic.QuintinoSellanotonly

foundedthestillactiveItalianAlpineClub,butalsotookhisyoung

nephewhikingthroughtheAlpsashetaughthimtolovethemountains.

HK.18–IndusValley,atconfluencewiththeDros.P.113

SellalivedduringtheGoldenAgeofEuropeanmountainexploration

whenmanypeakswerebeingscaledforthefirsttime.Priortohisera,

mountainsweremostlyregardedasdangerousobstaclestobecrossed,

hauntedbyevilspirits.Theearly19thcenturysawadramaticshiftin

people’sperceptionofmountains,heraldedbytheRomanticpoetswho

laudedthemas“palacesofnature”thatembodiedtheeternal.“To

WordsworthandothersoftheRomanticera,alpinepinnaclesbecame

symbolsoftheheightstowhichtheimaginationofmancouldaspire,

towardtheunattainablegoalsofunderstandinginfinity,eternity,and

thevastnessofGod.Itwasnoaccidentthatthebeginningsof

mountaineeringasasportcoincidedwiththerecognitionthat

mountainswere,infact,beautiful.Andthedevelopmentofphotography

coincidedwiththatverymomentinthehistoryofnaturalphilosophy

whichhasbeencalledthe“eraofmoralizedmountaineering.”This

usheredinasuddeninterestinlandscapeandnaturalscenery,along

withpoetry,painting,photography,andtheartoftravelaspeople

soughtouttheheightenedemotionsbroughtaboutbyafullexperience

ofNature.

Sellahelpedrunthefamilytextile,wineandbankingbusinessesand

wouldtakehistimeoffexploringtheAlpsorothermountainranges.

Althoughsmallinstature(only5foot6inches,todayhewouldbe

consideredaneliteathlete)Sellapossessedtremendousstrengthand

endurance.Hecarriedheavy,large-formatcamerasandglassplates,

scaledtreacherousslopes,workedinchallengingweatherconditions,

andenduredstorageconditionsthatsometimesruinedhisnegatives.He

madephotographswithbothstereoscopicandhandheldKodak

cameras,afterwardenlarginghisprintsbyvariousmeans.Hismasterful

compositionsofsublimepeakscapturedcrispdetailsandthevastarray

oftonalrangesenhancedbyhigh-altitudelightandshadow.Hismost

celebratedworksarelarge,multi-platepanoramas.

HK.1007–HimalayanpeaksinKashmir,fromnearSildi.ShigarValleyfromNest

Dilfi

“Shigarvalleyrunsfromnorth-westtosouth-eastforabout25miles,maintaininga

widthofaboutthreemilesandwithadropofsome350feet.Thesandhasobliterated

nearlyeverytraceofglacialaction.Onlyinshelteredcornersandontheleesideof

lateralspursaretobefoundmoraineremnants,whichbearwitnesstothepast

occupationofthevalleyuptoagreatheightbyagiganticglacier...”FDFp.139

ThepublicwasenthralledbythepicturesSellabroughtbackfromhis

daringexpeditions.Accordingtoonereviewer,hisannualexhibitof

mountainphotographsattheAlpineClubinLondonwas

“inconvenientlycrowded.”SellasoldhisprintstopeoplefromItaly,

France,GermanyandEngland,andwasrepresentedbyaLondondealer

namedSpooner.Hisphotographssatisfiedagrowingpublichungerto

knowmoreaboutdistantplacesontheearththatfewwouldeversee

first-hand,whileprovidingasatisfyingblendofartistic,scientific,

intellectual,andevenspiritualelements.Sella’sprimarygoalwasto

providetheempiricalevidenceofwhatheandhispartyhadseenon

theirexpeditions,andtoconveyrealityasitwasperceivedbythe

humaneye.Hisapproachwasgovernedbyrigoroustechnicaland

aestheticstandardsthathecalled“larealtàsevere–severereality.

1909ExpeditiontotheKarakoram

In1909,asSellawasapproachinghisfiftiethbirthday,heandhislong

timeclimbingfriendtheDukeoftheAbruzzi,LuigiAmedeodi

Savoia,embarkedontheirmostambitiousjourneyyet,toclimbK2in

theWesternHimalayaKarakoramrange,andtosatisfytheDuke’s

primaryintentiontosetanewhigh-altituderecordforamantohave

climbedto.InTibetan,thenameKarakorammean“blackgravel,”and

toreachitmeantcrossingthevastmountainousregionbetween

KashmirandChineseTurkestan,acomplexsystemofranges,immense

tablelands,intricatevalleysandmightyrivers.TheDukewantedto

determinehowhighhumanbeingscouldclimbandsurvive,aquestion

thatcouldonlybesolvedbydirectexperience.Theexpedition

ultimatelyspentovertwomonthsontheKarakoramglaciersand

returnedwithatroveofscientificdatathatincludedalargenumberof

photographs,atopographicalsurveyofaportionofthehighglacier

basins,newaltimetricmeasurementsandmeteorologicaldata,new

glaciologicalandgeologicalobservations,aswellastheexperienceof

longdurationatlowatmosphericpressurebybothEuropeansand

natives.

HK.74-Mt.PajuifromBaltoroGlaciertakenbytelephotographfromlowerBaltoro

Glacier“TothewestofthesewesawPaijuPeak,apileoftriangularrockpyramids

risingoneaboveanother,clearlyoutlinedbytheiriceridgesandliftingupa

symmetricalpointedsummitcompletelycoveredwithsnow.FDFp.181

SellahadalreadyaccompaniedtheDukeonexpeditionstoAlaskaand

Uganda,andonceagaintheDukewantednoonebutSellaonthe

Karakoramexpedition,knowingthathisphotographicrecordwouldbe

unsurpassed.SevenItalianguidesandporterswerechosenfrom

Courmayeur,inthevalleyofAosta,Italy.SellabroughtwithhimErminio

Botta,whoactedasassistantphotographer,guideandporter,andwas

familiarwithcamplifeandforeignmountaineering.

HK.84–PaijuPeakandthelowerBaltorotakenfromRdokassBaltoroGlacierand

PaijumountainsfromRdokass“ThecalculationsbasedonthesedatesgiveRdokass

analtitudeof13,205feet.Itthusbecameastationofreferenceforthecalculationof

theDuke’sobservationsinthehighmountainsduringthisperiod.Wehadnowreached

morethan13,000feetabovesealevel,withoutexperiencinganysymptomofsuffering

fromaltitude.Weallsleptsoundly,andourappetiteswereexcellent.Someofus,

however,notedevenattheearlyperiodthatwhenwestoopeddowntotieourshoesor

windourputtees,forinstance,wewouldbecaughtbyaslightsenseofoppressionon

standingupagain,andobligedtotakefourorfivedeepbreaths.“FDFp.194

TheDukehadalltheirequipmenttransportedfromEurope–camp

materials,personaleffectsandsuppliesfortheglacierregionslike

ropes,ice-axes,crampons,nailsandcobbler’stools,aswellas

meteorologicalinstrumentsandfragileFortinmercurybarometersthat

wereaperpetualsourceofanxiety.TheDukewantedtousePaganini’s

photogrammetricsystem(awayofmakingmeasurementsfrom

photographs)forthetopographicalwork,soaphotogrammetriccamera

withastockofplateswasaddedtoSella’sequipment.Medicalsupplies

werealsoincludedtoministertotheneedsofthenativeswhoseldom

sawaEuropeandoctor.Onlytwogunswerebrought,onchanceof

gettingsomespecimensofzoologicalinterest.

HK.1003–Abruzzi’sCampatTolti

AsitwouldtaketwomonthstogetfromEuropetotheKarakoram,

wheretheDukewantedtobebyearlyJune,theteamdepartedfrom

MarseillesonMarch26,1909,sailingviaSicily,theSuezCanal,theRed

Sea,andtheIndianOceantoBombay.Theythentraveledtwodaysby

railroadtothenorthofthePunjabwheretheyandtheirluggagewere

depositedinRawalPindionApril11th.Fromtheretheexpeditionand

equipmentweretransportedbyhorse-drawncartsfor200milesto

Srinagaronacarriageroad(finished20yearsearlier)thatwentfrom

RawalPindi(1,700ft.)totheKashmirplateau(5,200ft.).Aftersome

wellearnedrestinKashmir,thepartyheadedfortheKarakoramon

April24th.

HK.78–SouthernwallofK2fromSouthwest-p.230

InEuropetheDukehadarrangedforallthebaggagetobedividedinto

packagesoftherightweightfor250bearers(whomtheycalledcoolies)

and95ponies.Alltold,262loadsofabout50lbs.eachhadtobe

transportedintothehighmountains.Thecoolieswerepaidthe

“extraordinary”wagesofawholerupeeaday(ratherthan4to6annals

aday–withoutfood),afeedeterminedbytheKashmirgovernmentto

compensatethemforcrossingtheZojiLainwinterorspring,whenthe

dangerofavalanchesandfatigueofwalkingthroughthedeepsnowwas

muchworsethaninthesummer.(Anannalbeingequalto1/16rupee,

thecoolieswerebeingpaidfourtimesmorethanusual).

HK.270–PaijuMt.fromMashurbrum

Theexpeditionengagedfreshcooliesandponiesateverystageofthe

journey,sincethebearerscouldnotleavetheirvillagefieldsformore

thantwoorthreedays.ThankstotheDuke’smeticulousorganization,

theyreachedSkarduin11dayshavingtraveledthrough225milesof

extraordinarilyharshterrain.Scatteredthroughoutthisforbidding

landscapeweresmallvillageswheretheyobtainedfreshcooliesand

ponies.

HK.35–GameofPolofromIndusValley–PoloatParkutta“Atfouro’clockinthe

afternoonagameofpolowasorganizedinhonoroftheDuke.Twelveplayerstook

part...Theoriginofthegameiscertainlyremote.Itseemstohavebeencommonat

thecourtoftheMogols.ThenthetraditionwaslostinIndia,andonlykeptupat

Manipur...TheEnglishofCalcuttalearnedthegameinManipur,andwereso

attractedbyitsfineandmanlyqualitiesthattheymadeittheirownandhavediffused

itthroughouttheworld.”FDFp.122

Thetrip’schronicler,FilippiDeFillippo,describedtheregionas“...one

vastlabyrinthofhigh,barren,desolatemountainchains,ofcliffssplit

andshatteredineverydirection,usuallyprecipitous;overhanging

valleysfullofrocksandstones,pebblesandsand;detritusofallshapes

andsizeshurleddowninavalanchesandmingledwithvast

accumulationsofalluvialdeposits...”“Tracesofavalanchesare

everywherevisible,signsofancientorrecentcataclysms...”

HK.UNK-EmptyBasinofGlacialLakeIcePyramidsinBack–p.210“Theice

pyramidspoisedonthemarginoftheselittlelakesaredazzlinglyreflectedinthe

translucentwater...”FDFp.211

Sellaphotographedeverystageoftheirjourney,generallyleavingcamp

beforebreakfastwithhisassistantBottaandthecoolieswhocarriedthe

photographicandcinematographicapparatus,sothathecould

photographthescenery,orcatchtheexpeditiononthemarchat

picturesqueplacesontheroad.Often,helingeredbehindtophotograph

someespeciallybeautifullandscapefeature,orhewanderedaroundthe

outskirtsofthecampsearchingforsubjectstophotograph.

HK.91–Masherbrum,fromtheBaltoro

“ItseemedasifthewholesouthernchainoftheBaltorohadnootherofficethanto

formabaseforthemarvelousMasherbrum,whichtoweredupinitsmidst,showinga

littledimlythroughthemist.”FDFp.212

TheyreachedtheheartoftheKarakoramonlysixweeksafterleaving

Italy,ajourneythatincluded350milesonfoot.Morethan150coolies

hadcarriedtheirequipmentandsuppliestothefootofK2:ice-axes,

mountaineeringrope,crampons,show-shoesandironspikesforthe

rocks,topographicalinstruments,photogrammetriccameraandplates,

compasses,meteorologicalinstruments,mercurybarometers,aneroids,

hypsometers,thermometers.TheluggageincludedallofSella’s

photographicequipment,exceptthecinematograph,whichremainedin

Rdokass.

HK.198-GasherbrumIV“Infrontofus,apparentlyquitecloseathand,the

transversalchainoftheGasherbrumseemstoshutinthevalley.Itisafileofpeaksand

snowcrests,stretchingonbothsidesoftheprecipitousrockwallofGasherbrumitself,

allridgesandicegullies,andnearly10,500feet.FDFp.213

K2

HK.1005–K2,Mt.Godwin-AustinGlacierfromsouth

“Oneverysidetheeyemeetsaspreadingvistaofwidevalleysfilledwithalmostlevel

glaciers,whichgoupatagentleslopeamongtheloftychains.TheGodwinAustinis

composedofparallelstripesofblackandwhite,formedbythealternationofbareice

andmorainedetritus.ItrunsnorthwardforsixmilestothebaseofK2,whichrise,a

pyramidofrock,12,000feethighfrombasetosummit,betweentworidgesthat

outlinethemselvestowestandeastagainstthesky.”FDFp.221

AstheyobservedK2fromitsbasetoitssummit,themountainexerted

suchastrongfascinationonthemthatFilippodescribed:“the

compellingandirresistibleambitiontowardacloseracquaintanceand

moreintimateknowledgeofthelonelygiant,whichsofewmenbefore

ushadeverbeheld....allthelandscapearoundK2hastherichest

varietyofdesign,thegreatestmajestyofformandaninfinitediversity

ofplaneandperspective.Thescaleisfartoovastforonetoreceivean

impressionofthewholeatonce.Theeyecanonlytakeinsingleportions

...thewallappearedtogrowlesssteep,but,ontheotherhand,the

obstaclesbecamemoreevident–theliveiceofthegullies,dominated

byoverhangingséracs;thegleamofverglasontherocks;thesheer

precipicesshowingeverywhereonthefaceofthewall.”

HK163–StaircasePeakandendofN.E.RidgeofK2andtheopeningoftheStaircase

Basinp.263

Withtheguidesandmostoftheluggage,theDukewentuptheGodwin

AustenglaciertothefootofK2tolookforasuitablespotforabase

camp,fromwherehewouldconductoperationsonalltheslopesofthe

mountain.Thefirstdayhemadeacursoryexaminationoftwo-thirdsof

thecircumferenceofthemountain,butcouldnotfindaneasy,obvious,

saferoutetothesummit.Havingsetupbasecampat16,493ft.,they

determinedwhichofthestrongestandyoungestcoolieswould

accompanythemintothehighestmountains.Thesemenweregiven

substantialtunics,trousers,blankets,puttees,heavywoolsocks,nailed

boots,snowspectacles,sheepskinsleepingbags,andthreetentsperten

men.

HK.SC.1010–TheDukeleavingBaseCamp“OnthemorningofMay30thallwas

ready.Theweatherhadnotchangedandthemountainslookedsinister.Webadeadieu

toourleaderwithgoodwishes,whichdidnotsucceedindisguisingfromourselvesthe

insecuritywefeltastotheoutcomeofhisboldundertaking.Thesimplefactisthat

thesearenotmountainslikeothermountains,andonecannotlookatthemwithout

disquietandforeboding.TheDukewasaccompaniedbythethreeguides,thefour

portersandthecoolies,carryingtheirowntentsandsupplyofchupattis.Hecrossed

thefrontoftheglacierthatcomesdownfromthesouthernwallofK2,andwentupthe

GodwinAustentothefootofthesouthernridge,some500feethigherthanthebase

camp...Hekeptclosetotherightsideoftheridge,andreachedashelteredsunny

nook(18,245feethigh)atthebaseofarockytooth,wheretheguidesdepositedthe

equipment.”FDFp.235

TheyweresituatedatahugeglacialcrossroadsofGodwinAusten

Glacier,surroundedbyBroadPeak(26,414ft.),K2(28,251ft.),the

GoldenThrone(23,990ft.),BridePeak(25,148ft),andMitrePeak

(19,718ft.).K2roselikeapyramidofrock12,000feethighfromthe

baseoftheglaciertothesummit.Theimpressionmadebythe

extraordinarylandscape,wroteFilippo,“wassostrong,somoving,that

nowordscanconveyittothereader.Itwaslikenootherexperience,it

provokednorecollectionsorcomparisons.Soinconceivablyvastarethe

structurallinesofthelandscape,thattheideacomesintoone’smindof

beingintheworkshopofnature,andofstandingbeforetheprimeval

chaosandcosmosofaworldasyetunvisitedbythephenomenonof

life.”

HK.185–SouthWallofBaltoroGlacier

AfterassessingvariouspossibleroutesupK2,theDukedecidedtotry

itssouthernridge,whichhadcertainadvantages.Itwassteeperand

longerthanthenorthwesterncrest,buthewouldnothavetoclimban

ice-walltoreachthecol(thelowestpointofaridgeorsaddlebetween

twopeaks.)Furthermore,theslopefacedsouthandgotfullsunfrom

earlyinthemorning,extremelyimportantinascentsabove24,000ft.,

whereintensecoldcanbeaseriousdangertotheclimber.

230(1)MitrePeakandMustaghTower.TelephotographicSella’stelephotoswere

madewithalongfocal-lengthlenstoencompassallthatcouldbeseenfromalofty

vantagepoint,andtogatherinthephysicalfactsofagreatrange,aswellasto

portraythevisualspectacle.Thiswastakenfromthebaseoftheircampatthe

GoldenThrone“This mountain, of course, is the Mustagh Tower. It is about 24,000 feet high,and stands isolated from other peaks on a somewhat narrow base marked by sharp ridges. It appears, and is, a true monolith, a rocky mass of a single formation, without traces of breaks or divisional planes – no other, of any comparable size, is known to exist in the world.” FDF p. 299

Althoughtheyhadpaireddowntheirtents,sleepingbags,foodfora

week,cookingapparatus,andparaffin,theirsuppliesstillhadsomuch

weightthattheDukedeterminedtogoupalone,withalltheresources

oftheexpeditionsetupinadvancebythecoolieswhowouldpitch

campsashighaspossiblebeforecomingbackdown.TheDukewould

thenattempttoreachthehighestpossiblepointatadash,andifhis

powersfailedhewouldreturn,leavingthetentsontheridge,and

handingovertheundertakingtoanotherteammember,whowould

havetheadvantageoffreshstrengthandtheequipmentbeingalready

onthespot.

HK.233–GlacialTorrentonUpperBaltoro(enlargement)attheConfluenceofthe

Vigne,p.292-293

Butastheysoonlearned,theterrainwastootreacherousforthecamps

tobesetup,andat20,000ft.theguideswereforcedtoreturntocamp

withthesupplies.Alldescribehavingincredibleopticalillusionsinthe

thinairandvastdistances.Slabsofrockthatlookedlikegentleinclines

turnedouttobenearlyperpendicular,anditwasimpossibletoestimate

thegradeofslopesorthedistancesbetweenpointsoftheascent.

HK.133–WesternwallofK2fromSavoiaGlacier“Nowbegantheattackonthewall.

..Fromthecamp,towhichwehadreturnedafterourwork,wewatchedwiththe

telescopetheslowascentoftheclimbingparty.”FDFp.248

Filippowrote:“Wehadnostandardsofcomparison,andtheglaciers

andvalleysaresowelladjustedintheirproportionstothesurrounding

mountainsthatitwashardtorealizetheabsolutesizeofanyobject.All

thiswasrevealedtousgradually,bydintofdailycontemplationand

detailedobservation,mostofallbyrepeatedfailuresinestimating

heightsanddistances.Thusithappenedthatouramazement,insteadof

diminishingwithfamiliarity,grewgreatereveryday,andthis

extraordinaryregionnevermadeamoreprofoundimpressionuponus

thanonthedaywhenwebadeitfarewell.”

HK.2003–K2.BroadPeak

Sellaworkedconstantly,thoughtheweatherwasacontinualchallenge.

Sometimeshespentwholedayspatientlywaitingonaledgeabove

camp,crouchedbesidehisequipment,hopingforabreakintheclouds.

Thecoldpenetratingwindpiercedhisthickwoolens;histeethchattered

ashestampedhisfeetandslappedhishandstogether,waitingforthe

skytoclearintemperatureshoveringaround20degrees.Theforced

inactivitymadehissufferingacute,andwhenthestormsworsenedhe

retreatedintohistenttoprepareasimplemealandwaitformorningas

thesavagewindsblewfinegrainsoficethrougheverycrannyofthe

tent.

HK152BroadPeakfromCampVI.“ThiswasCampVIofourmap,18,602feetabove

sealevel.“FDF-p.256

WhiletheDukewasexploringK2’sglaciersandsurroundingrangeson

thesouth,westandeast,Sellaandhisteam,despitethemistsandfogs

thatrepeatedlycoveredthepeaksandwalls,succeededingettingviews

ofthevalleysandmountainsaboutK2andmakinganetworkof

photogrammetricpanoramasandanglesreadonthetacheometer.Sella

madeaseriesofspectacularpanoramasoftheBaltoroglacierand

surroundingpeaks,capturing25milesoftheglacier’s36milesfromthe

footoftheGasherbrumdowntoapointclosetothesnout.

HK.152–BroadPeakfromCampVI–GroupofmountainsbetweenGasherbrumand

HiddenPeak.P.254-255

ForweekstheDukecircumambulatedK2,tryingvariousroutestothe

summit,butafterextensiveexaminationandhoursofcontemplationin

searchforthesecretofthemountain,hewasforcedtoconcludethatK2

couldnotbeclimbed.Heightwasnotsomuchafactor,aswerethe

obstaclespeculiartomountainclimbingandfamiliartomountaineers

suchasthetreacherousgradeandfrequentstorms.Finally,hedecided

toabandonthestruggle,knowingthathehaddoneeverythingwithin

hispowertosucceed.Nonetheless,beforeleavingthatregiontheDuke

madehistorybyreachinganelevationofaround20,510feetonthe

SouthEastSpur,(nowknownastheAbruzziSpurorAbruzziRidge),

thathassincebecomepartofthestandardclimbingroute,thoughthe

Dukehadtoabandonitbecauseofitssteepnessanddifficulty.TodayK2

iscalledtheSavageMountainbecauseoftheextremedifficultyof

ascent,andthefactthatithasthesecond-highestfatalityrate,with

Annapurnabeingthehighest.Todatetherehavebeenaround300

successfulsummitsand77fatalitiesonK2.

Their work around K2 was finished, but the Duke had no intention of ending

the campaign. Nor did he give up the hope of climbing another peak in the

region and reaching a higher altitude than any yet attained, thus satisfying

the chief purpose of his expedition. As they left K2, the team was

encouraged that the season was not yet far advanced, that their native guides

had done splendidly on the high slopes, and that aside from a slight

reduction of strength and powers of resistance, no one was really the worse

for their life above 16,500 ft.

TheDuketurnedhisattentiontoBridePeak,oneofthehighChogolisa

peaks,wherehesetanaltitudeworldrecordbyclimbingto24,600ft.

Indeed,hewaswithin490ft.ofthesummitwhenastormforcedhimto

retreat.

PointReachedbyH.R.H·24,600ft.)

“Sella’s photography was accomplished using orthochromatic plates which are

sensitive toall colorsof light except thoseof the red regionsof the specter. Skies

were rendered light gray, and foliage medium gray; atmospheric space was well

recorded,andas therewaslittlered in thegeneralsubjectmatter, “panchromatic”

materialswouldhaveofferedslightadvantage.Colorfilterswereundoubtedlyused

toreducethevaluesoftheskyandtobringsnowandcloudsintovigorousrelief.”

~AnselAdams

HK.2–BroadPeakatSunset

“WehadstilltoexploretheupperbasinoftheGodwinAustenandtheeasternslopesof

K2–aworkwhichoccupiedthenextfifteendaysofthecampaign.Accordingtothe

surveymadebytheexpedition,theGodwinAustenfromtheConcordiatoWindyGapis

twelveandahalfmileslong...Fromthispointontheglacierrunsnorth-east,ina

deepgorgebetweenK2andBroadPeak.”FDFp.254

HK.179-184–PanoramafromridgeforminganglebetweentheBaltoroandGodwin-

AustinGlaciers.17,332feet.

“Sellahadprofitedbythetwoexceptionalfinedaystomakehighlysuccessful

photographicexcursions.Onthe26thheclimbedtherockycornerbetweenBaltoroand

theGodwinAusten,reachingashoulder17,239feethighontheblackandbroken

schist’sfromwhichrisesthemarblepeak.ThencehetookpanoramaC.Thenextdayhe

crossedtheglaciertothefootofthegreatwesternridgeoftheGasherbrums,and

madeadifficultwayuptherocksandicygulliestoaledge17,917feethigh,justabout

oppositetohispositionofthedaybefore.HerehetookpanoramaD.Thesetwo

panoramasareallthatcouldbedesiredinthewayofshowingthewholeamphitheatre

anditssurroundingmountainchains.Sellaalsocollectedandphotographedsome

Alpineplantsgrowinginshelteredplacesontheheightsuptonearly18,000ft.”FDFp.

287

HK.109-113–PanoramafromnorthernspurofGasherbrum:2005:BridePeak

(pointreachedbyH.R.H.);2006:VigneGlacier;2007:MitrePeak,Gasherbrum,

Baltoro;2009:K2,Godwin-Austenglacier–variantof109-110-righttwopanelsto

theVigneGlacieranditstributariesoftheleftbank.“Therewasalighteningofthe

atmosphereinthewest,andwecouldtellthatwehadreachedthelevelofthemouth

oftheVigneglacier.Alittlefartheron,wheretheendofitsright-handspurabutson

thevalley,wemadeourcamp...”FDFp.293

HK.230(2)“MitrePeakandMustaghTowerfromCampX1.Telephotographic”

Titleonback:KarakoramMountains,HimalayanpeaksinCashmere

HK.174–“BridePeakandGodwin-AustenGlacierfromCampIII

“OnJune25thSellaleftusatthebasecampandwentdowntothemouthoftheGodwin

Austen,takingwithhimBottaandfifteenloadedcoolies.Hesentbackthelatter

directly,andonthedayfollowingthemadethejourneydownandbackasecondtime,

amarchofnearlyninehours.Werewardedthisextraworkandtheirdocilityin

performingitbysomepresentsofbiscuits,alittleteaandsugar,chocolateorbutter,

allofwhichwehadgraduallypersuadedthemtoaccept.Wewereastonishedtohave

someofthemaskforsoapandwashthemselves,nearlynudeforthepurpose,intheicy

rivuletbetweenthecampandthemoraine.”FDFp.284

HK.1008-1009–2-partpanoramaMitrePeak&MuztaghTower,Himalayas,

KarakoramMts.

HK.206-207–2partPanoramaoftheKarakoramHimalayasfromBaltoroGlacier

HK.1006–TowersontherightsideofBaltoroglacier.

HK.1004–BridePeakfromGodwin-AustinGlacierneartheConcordiap.223

HK.145-147–K2andStaircasePeakfromWindyGap(3partpanoramaof

enlargements)

HK.253–WestSpurofGasherbrum,fromUpperBaltoroGlacier(inourgallerylist

identifiedasHK.210)

“TothenorthoftheGasherbrum,onthecontinuationofthesamerange,thegreat

roundeddomesofBroadPeakriseabovethelastspursoftherightwalloftheBaltoro,

whichstillprojectinfrontofus.”FDFp.213

HK.132-BroadPeak–WesternwalloftheBroadPeakfromthetopoftheTerminal

CascadeoftheSavoiap.245

HK.266–RopeBridgeonPunmahRiver

“Thebridgewasinfaircondition,thoughratherlongandswaying.Aftercrossingit,we

stoppedfornearlyanhourtoenjoythesightofthepassageofthecaravan,Jemadars

andchuprassisshouteddeafeningorders,andthemengotfromonebanktotheother,

movingwithgreatcautionbutnotawkwardly.Aftertheloadswereover,thelittle

flockhadtobetransported,eachgoatridingontheshouldersofacoolie,carriedina

shortofsling.”FDFp.330

HK.2002–MountBaltoro.GlacierLakeintheLowerBaltoro–p.188-189

HK.2004–GoldenThrone

Sellareceivednumerousprizesandhonorarydiplomasfrom

internationalexpositions,geographicalsocieties,andalpineclubs

aroundtheworld.AfterwinningaGrandGoldMedalatthe1893

GeographicalCongressinTurin,morethanfourhundredofhisprints

weresenttoBostonwheretheywereshowninanexhibitionsponsored

bytheAppalachianMountainClub(AMC)andtheBostonArtClub.The

collectionwasthenexhibitedinBridgeport,Connecticutandviewedby

overtwentythousandpeople.in1922,acquirednearlyathousandof

hisphotographs.

HK.1001–FirstCamponBaltoroGlacierbetweenLeligoandRhobutse

Sella’sarchivesarehousedintheFondazioneSella,Biella,Italy.In2010,

thePanopticonGalleryofBostonheldasoloexhibitionofhisworktitled

“HeightsofObservation:ThePhotographsofVittorioSella.”

Retrospectiveswereheldin2008attheEstorickCollectionofModern

ItalianArt,London,UK,underthetitle“FrozeninTime:TheMountain

PhotographyofVittorioSella”,andin2006attheGalleriaCivicad’Arte

ModernaeContemporanea,Turin,Italy.In1999,amajortraveling

retrospectivewasorganizedattheMountHolyokeCollegeArtMuseum,

SouthHadley,MA,accompaniedbythepublicationSummit:Vittorio

Sella,MountaineerandPhotographer,theYears1879-1909,releasedin

associationwiththeApertureFoundation,NewYork.Yetanother

collectionofhisworkishousedintheGeorgianMuseumofPhotography

intheCaucasus.

SellaPass(namedbytheDukeinhonorofthephotographer)islocated

wheretheGodwinAustenglacierflowssouthwardintoawidevalley.

TheSellaPassintheSouthTyrol,ItalywasalsonamedforVittorioSella.

HK.1002–MustaghTower,MitrePeaketc.atsunsetfromCampXIIoverBaltoro

Peaks–p.302-303

FormoreinformationpleasecallAndrewSmithGalleryat(505)984-

1234.Visitusonlineathttp://www.andrewsmithgallery.com.Oure-

mailaddressisinfo@AndrewSmithGallery.com.

LizKay

NotesinitalicsarefromKarakoramandWesternHimalaya1909:anaccountofthe

expeditionofH.R.H.PrinceLuigiAmedeoofSavoy,DukeoftheAbruzzibyFilippode

Filippi.NewYork:E.P.Dutton&Co.,1912

References:

Summit:VittorioSella:MountaineerandPhotographerTheYears1879-1909,Preface

byAnselAdams.EssaysbyDavidBrower,GregChild,PaulKallmes,WendyM.

Watson.Aperture(1999)

KarakoramandWesternHimalaya1909:anaccountoftheexpeditionofH.R.H.Prince

LuigiAmedeoofSavoy,DukeoftheAbruzzibyFilippodeFilippi.NewYork:E.P.

Dutton&Co.,1912