water and oil fusion - sandro ballariano cosmeticlove

TE

CHNOLOGY

PATENTED

FORMULIENCE™

PALM OIL

FREE

PolyAquol™ VO4

Water and Oil Fusion

Our Technology

Vegetable oils PolyAquol™-VO4 is compatible with 100% vegetable oils

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

(20°

C, s

04)

0

4000

2000

6000

8000

30% tot oil phase (5% PolyAquol™-VO4, 25% Vegetable Oil); 70% Water Phase

Olive OilS. Almond Oil Jojoba Oil Sesame Oil Macadamia Oil Hazelnut Oil Cotton Oil

25ºCCold process

Synergistic action between polyhydroxystearic structures and selected polyglycerol derivatives of fatty acids

OH

OH OH OH OH

OH

OH

OH

OH

OH OH

OH

OH

OH

OH

OH OH OH

OH

HO

HO

HO

HO HO

HO HO HO HO

HO

HO HO

HOHO

HO HO HO

HO

HO

O

OO

O

OO

O

O

O O

O

O O O O

O

O

O

O O

O O O O

O

O

O

O O

O

O O

O

O

OOOO

O

O

O

Key features New exclusive concept for Water and Oil Fusion (W+O)

Excellent compatibility with vegetable oils

100% vegetable source, GMO-free, PEG-free, palm-free

Cold-processable

Environmental friendly

High internal water phase loading

Low energy emulsification process

Low usage level

Unique sensorial properties

Patented technology

25ºC

PALM OIL

FREE

TE

CHNOLOGY

PATENTED

PolyAquol™-VO4 creates stable emulsions in the presence of various vegetable oils with high polarities

Modifying the lipid phase composition and polarity

PolyAquol™-VO4 is compatible with various vegetable oil and mineral oil ratios

Possibility to create different viscosity levels

PolyAquol™-VO4 is compatible with various vegetable oil and lipid ester ratios

Possibility to create different viscosity levels

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

(20°

C, s

04. 2

0 rp

m)

0

3000

1000

5000

4000

2000

6000

Variation of the vegetable oil/ester ratio

100:0 75:25 50:50 25:75

25ºCCold process

Vegetable Oil Ester

30% total oil phase (5% PolyAquol™-VO4, 25% Sweet Almond Oil and/or Caprilylic/Capric Triglyceride); 70% water phase.

100% vegetable oil

25% vegetable oil/75% ester

Optical microscopy analysis 600x

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

(20°

C, s

04. 2

0 rp

m)

0

4000

1000

6000

5000

3000

2000

7000

Variation of the vegetable oil/mineral oil ratio

100:0 75:25 50:50 25:75

25ºCCold process

Vegetable Oil Mineral Oil

30% total oil phase (5% PolyAquol™-VO4, 25% Sweet Alamond Oil and/or Paraffinum Liquidum); 70% water phase.

100% vegetable oil

25% vegetable oil/75% mineral oil

Optical microscopy analysis 600x

Targeting a wide range of viscosity levels with as low as 1.5% PolyAquol™-VO4

Vis

cosi

ty le

vel (

cPs)

0

4000

5000

3000

1000

7000

6000

2000

8000

1.5% 2% 3% 5%4%

25ºCCold process

PolyAquol™-VO4 Concentration

*Total Oil Phase (30%) : PolyAquol™-VO4 (x%), Mixture of Vegetable Oils (x%): Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil,

Magnesium Stearate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid

A wide range of viscosity levels with up to 80% internal water phase

Vis

cosi

ty le

vel (

cPs)

0

15000

10000

5000

20000

25000

30000

25ºCCold process

Internal water phase (%)

Oil Phase : PolyAquol™-VO4, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Magnesium Stearate, Lecithin,

Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid

50% 60%

70%

75%

80%

PolyAquol™-VO4 creates a wide range of viscosity levels

PolyAquol™-VO4 allows for a high internal phase – 80% water

PolyAquol™-VO4 creates a wide range of viscosity levels

PolyAquol™-VO4 allows for a high internal phase – 80% water

Water Phase 50% 60% 70% 75% 80%

Oil Phase 50% 40% 30% 25% 20%

Viscosity (cPs) 1160 2300 6100 13060 29500

Appearance Serum Milk Lotion Cream Gel

Comparison with polyglycerol-based W/O emulsifiers

PolyAquol™-VO4 produces stable emulsion in comparison with other polyglycerol-based emulsifiers

PolyAquol™-VO4 is fully compatible with polar oils

25ºC 25ºC 25ºC

PolyAquol™-VO4

Step 1Adding PolyAquol™-VO4

to the oil phase

Step 2*Incorporating the water phase to

the oil phase. Then, progressively increasing homogenization up to 2500 rpm

Step 3*Stirring the emulsion at 50 rpm

* for a 200 gram batch

Cold process

Oil Phase (tot. 30%)Viscosity

(cPs)3Stability

(1 month at 50°C)

Emulsifier Emollients

2%

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Propanediol

28%1

1700 Unstable

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate / Unstable

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

2100 Unstable

PolyAquol™–VO4 3400 3Stable

5%


25%2

3360 Unstable



2180 Unstable

PolyAquol™–VO4 3930 3Stable

1Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Magnesium Stearate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid2Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Squalane, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid3Brookfield, RVDV-I, Sp 05, 20 rpm

Oil Phase (tot. 30%)Viscosity (cPs)**

Stability(1 month at 50°C)

EmulsifierVegetable

Oil*

5%


25%

3500 Unstable



3160 Unstable

PolyAquol™–VO4 3740 3Stable * Olea Eropaea (Olive) Oil** Brookfield, RVDV-i, Sp 05, 20 rpm

Formulations with PolyAquol™-VO4

Pure Natural Lotion Reference: TR 49 11 02E

INCI Name % Function

Phase A

Water (Aqua)up to

100.00

Glycerin 5.00 Humectant

Magnesium Sulfate 1.00 Stabilizing Agent

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.05 Chelating Agent

Preservative a.n. Preservative

Phase B

Polyglycerol-4 Oleate (and) Polyglycerol-6 Oleate (and) Polyhydroxystearate-PolyAquol™-VO4

2.00 Emulsifier

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil 6.80 Emollient

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil 6.80 Emollient

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 6.75 Emollient

Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil 6.75 Emollient

Magnesium Stearate 0.80 Lipophilic gelling Agent

Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid 0.10 Antioxidant

Phase C

Perfume 0.10 Perfume

VISCOSITY after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 05, 20 rpm 4000 - 5000 cps

Hydrating Body Cream Reference: TR 49 10E7

INCI Name % Function

Phase A

Water (Aqua)up to

100.00

Glycerin 5.00 Humectant

Magnesium Sulfate 1.00 Stabilizing Agent

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.05 Chelating Agent

Preservative a.n. Preservative

Phase B

Polyglycerol-4 Oleate (and) Polyglycerol-6 Oleate (and) Polyhydroxystearate-PolyAquol™-VO4

5.00 Emulsifier

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil 7.50 Emollient

Dicaprylyl Carbonate 7.50 Emollient

Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid 0.10 Antioxidant

Phase C

Perfume 0.10 Perfume

VISCOSITY after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm 9000 - 13000 cps

Cold process

Excellent affinity with different types of oil

High amount of water phase (up to 80%)

Superior sensorial profile

Cold process

Low % of use

100% vegetable oil phase

Superior sensorial profile

PolyAquol™–VO4PolyAquol™-VO4 is a new, patented technology in the field of emulsions. Unlike stan-dard emulsifiers, it literally creates a Water-and-Oil Fusion; W+O. Our W+O technology developed based on synergistic interactions between polyglyceryl derivatives of oleic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid. In addition to be completely natural as per its Cosmos certification and palm-free origin, it performs even in the presence of 100% vegetable oil. PolyAquol™-VO4 is an easily pourable liquid that allows the formation of cold-process emulsions. Its particularity to accept up to 80% of internal water phase brings full control to the viscosity of the final emulsion. It can create stable emulsions when used in a concentration as low as 2% and surpasses competition in robustness and sensoriality.

Technical information INCI (proposed): Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid

W/O emulsions

Compatible with 100% vegetable oils

Cold-process emulsions

Low energy emulsification process

Recommended use level: 2-5%

Viscous amber liquid

PolyAquol™-VO4 is compatible with:

– Polar oils

– Pigments

– Organic and inorganic UV filters

– High % of internal phase

– Waxes (e.g. microcrystalline)

– Consistency agents (e.g. magnesium stearate)

Applications Skin care

– BB & CC creams, cushions

Sun care

Baby care

Make up

Fabric masks

Green emulsions

Background

Formulation

Innovacos corp.111 Howard Blvd, Suite 160 Mt. Arlington New Jersey 07856

[email protected]

www.innovacos.com

© 2018 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique

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