FORMULIENCE™

PALM OIL

FREE

PolyAquol™ LW

Key features

Our Technology*

Naturally-derived “naturally emulsifying™” – PEG-free – Non-ionic

Perfect for low-energy emulsification

Compatible with “one-pot” emulsions

Ideal for low viscosity lotions and sprayable emulsions

Cold process – Energy saving – Cost&Time effective – Friendly use - allowing the use of ingredients heating sensitive – Environmentally friendly

Bio sustainability – Palm free – Cosmos approved

25ºC

PALM OIL

FREE

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate

Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate

– Chemical integrity of polyglycerol and fatty acid components

– Know-how in reacting those components and assembling them to create a O/W emulsion matrix

OH OH

OH OH OH OH

OH OHOH OH

HO O

HO O O O O

O O O O O

O

O

OH OH

OH OH OH OH

OH OHOH OH

HO O

HO O O O O

O O O O O

O

O

* patent pending technology

PolyAquol™-LW can be added to the oil phase or in the water phase in a cold-process environment

0

1200

1000

800

600

400

200

PolyAquol™-LWin oil phase

PolyAquol™-LWin water phase

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

25ºC

Cold processemulsion

Low energy emulsions

One-pot formulation

25ºC

PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with “one-pot” emulsion systems where all components are added in one single container

5 Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

6 Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

7 Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Octyldodecanol

8 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

D

9 PreservativeE

Water 1

Glycerin 2

PolyAquol™-LW 3

Xanthan gum 4

A

B

C

Prepare phase A;

Add phase B to phase A and homogenize for a few minutes;

Add phase C to phase A+B and homogenize for a few minutes;

Add one by one the ingredients of phase D in the given order and continue to homogenize for a few minutes;

Add phase D under gentle agitation.

Homogenizer-free emulsification method

80ºC

25ºC25ºC

80ºC 80ºC

PolyAquol™-LW + oil O/W emulsion PolyAquol™-LW + oil Water dilution O/W emulsionCoarse W/Oemulsion

O/Wemulsion

Single step process P.I.T. (Phase Inversion Temperature) process

First stepPrepare oil phase (PolyAquol™-LW + oil) and warm it to 75-80˚C;

Add a small amount of water phase to oil phase, very slowly, under agitation;Cool down to 25˚C under gentle stirring.

Second stepDilute the O/W emulsion concentrate with the

remaining water, under gentle stirring.

EmulsifierOil

Phase*Stability

(1 month at 50°C)

A Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Aqua

5% 1%

Unstable

B Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Propanediol Unstable

C Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Dilauryl Citrate Unstable

D Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (commercial 1) Unstable

E Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (commercial 2) Unstable

F PolyAquol™–LW 3Stable

Water Phase: Water, preservative* Oil Phase: Dicaprylyl Ether

No need of homogenizer

A, B and C D and E

Comparison with liquid polyglycerol-based O/W emulsifiers

EmulsifierOil

Phase*Viscosity (cPs)**

Stability(1 month at 50°C)

A Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Aqua

5% 10%

1025 Unstable

BPolyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Propanediol

n.a. Unstable

C Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Dilauryl Citrate 1200 Unstable

D Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (commercial 1) 1000 Unstable

E Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (commercial 2) 1565 Unstable

F PolyAquol™–LW 1000 3Stable

Water Phase: Water, Xanthan Gum, preservative* Oil Phase: Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Paraffinum Liquidum** Brookfield, RVDV-i Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm

25ºC

Cold process emulsion

Superior stability

More homogeneous emulsion

Fine particle size distribution

PolyAquol™-LW

Optical microscopy analysis 600x

A

C

D

F

E

Compatibilty with different lipid phases

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

0

800

600

200

400

100

1200

1400

Prunus AmigdalusDulcis (SweetAlmond) Oil

Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride

innollient™LO ParaffinumLiquidum

PolyAquol™-LW forms stable emulsions and low viscosity regardless of the lipid phase polarity

Compatibility with rheological modifiers/thickeners

PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with various synthetic thickeners

Synthetic thickeners

P-LWOil

Phase*Thickener %

Viscosity (cPs)**

Stability(1 month at 50°C)

5% 10%

A Carbomer 0.10 1600 3Stable

BAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

0.10 1080 3Stable

CAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

0.15 950 3Stable

DAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

0.30 2500 3Stable

E Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 2100 3Stable

F Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11 0.30 2500 3Stable

* Oil Phase: Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Paraffinum Liquidum** Brookfield, RVDV-i Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm

25ºC

PolyAquol™-LW Thickeners

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

0

2000

1500

1000

500

2500

3000

A B C D E F

Naturally derived thickeners

P-LWOil

Phase*Thickener %

Viscosity (cPs)**

Stability(1 month at 50°C)

5% 10%

A Dehydroxanthan Gum 0.30 2100 3Stable

B Xanthan Gum 0.50 1000 3Stable

C Sclerotium Gum 0.50 750 3Stable

DMicrocrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum

1.20 700 3Stable

E Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 2.00 890 3Stable

F Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 3.00 820 3Stable

* Oil Phase: Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Paraffinum Liquidum** Brookfield, RVDV-i Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

0

1500

1000

500

2000

2500

A B C D E F

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

0

1500

1000

500

2000

A B C D

PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with various naturally derived thickeners

A 0.3% Xanthan Gum + 1.0% Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

B 0.3% Xanthan Gum + 1.2% Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum

C 0.3% Xanthan Gum + 0.4% Sclerotium Gum

D 0.5% Xanthan Gum + 1.0% Tapioca Starch

Formulations with PolyAquol™-LW

Cold process Lotion TR 52-09

INCI Name % Function

Phase A

Water (Aqua) up to 100.00

Glycerin 3.00 Humectant

Phase B

Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 Thickener

Phase D

PolyAquol™-LW 3.00 Emulsifier

Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 5.00 Emollient

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00 Emollient

Parafinum Liquidum 2.00 Emollient

Phase E

Preservative a.n. Preservative

Parfum a.n. Parfum

VISCOSITY after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm pH (100%) 1500 - 2000 cps 5.0 - 7.0

Cold process

Low viscosity

Light and fresh texture

25ºC

Cold process emulsion

PolyAquol™-LW

Wet Wipes Lotion CP 17-18-26D

INCI Name % Function

Phase A

Water (Aqua) up to 100.00

Phase A1

Water (Aqua) 20.00

Phase B

PolyAquol™-LW 5.00 Emulsifier

Dicaprylyl Ether 1.00 Emollient

Preservative a.n. Preservative

Phase C

Polysorbate 20 a.n. Solubilizer

Parfum a.n. Parfum

VISCOSITY after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm pH (100%) 200 - 300 cps 5.0 - 7.0

Low energy emulsion

No need for homogenization

Super low viscosity

PolyAquol™-LW

PolyAquol™–LWThe selection of highly purified polyglyceryl and fatty acid building blocks coupled to a molecular engineering know-how led to the creation of PolyAquol™-LW (patent pending). The key features of PolyAquol™-LW reside in its ability to form O/W emulsion in a cold-process environment while achieving very low levels of viscosity. It can be incorpo-rated in the water phase or in the oil phase, independently. Those characteristics make PolyAquol™-LW perfectly suited for “one-pot” emulsions and also low-energy process avoiding the use of heat or homogenization. Moreover, its Cosmos status and palm-free origin make it an ideal candidate for green formulations. Thanks to its molecular de-sign, PolyAquol™-LW outperforms other emulsifiers with an apparent similar chemical composition.

Technical information INCI (proposed): Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate

Cold process O/W emulsions

One-pot emulsions

Low energy systems

Recommended use level: 2-5%

Works in a pH range from 3 to 9

Whitish thick liquid

PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with:

– Lipid phase with different chemistry and polarity

– Synthetic and naturally derived thickeners

Applications Skin care

Sprayable lotions

Milks

Wipes

– Baby care

– Cleansing

– Makeup removal

Fabric masks

Sun care

Green emulsions

Background

Formulation

Innovacos corp.111 Howard Blvd, Suite 160 Mt. Arlington New Jersey 07856

info@innovacos.com

www.innovacos.com

© 2018 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique

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