FORMULIENCE™

PolyAquol™OS2naturally emulsifying™

Key features

Molecular basis

Emulsification process

PEG-free naturally-derived W/O emulsifier

Compatible with a wide range of oils with different polarities and chemistries

Compatible with physical and chemical UV filters

Compatible with pigments

Forms stable emulsions without co-emulsifier

Cold-processable

Allows for a high internal aqueous phase

Sensory properties

Synergistic action between polyhydroxystearic structures and selected polyglycerol derivatives of fatty acids

O O

O

OH OH

HO

O O

O

OH OHHO

O O

O

OH OH

HO

O

O

HO

O

OO

HO

OO

O

OHOH

HO

OO

O

OHOHHO

OO

O

OHOH

HO

OO

HO

OO

OHO

PolyAquol™–OS2 forms stable W/O emulsions when used in cold or hot processes

Step 2Addition of the water phase in the oil phase already containing PolyAquol™–OS2

Step 1Addition of PolyAquol™–OS2 to the oil phase

Cold Process Hot Process

80°C

25°C

PolyAquol™–OS2

80°C

PolyAquol™–OS2

25°C

external oil phase

external oil phase

internal water phase

Comparison with polyglycerol-based W/O emulsifiers

PolyAquol™–OS2 produces a more homogeneous and stable emulsion in comparison with other polyglycerol emulsifiers

PolyAquol™–OS2 is compatible with polar oils

Emulsifier Polar oil* Apolar oil* Stability(1 month at 50°C)

5%

Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

10% 15%

Unstable

Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate Unstable

Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate

Unstable

PolyAquol™–OS2 3Stable

* 10% Sweet Almond Oil and 15% Paraffinum Liquidum

Optical microscopy analysis (600X)

PolyAquol™–OS2

A C

B D

E

PolyAquol™–OS2 produces a more homogeneous fine particle size distribution in comparison with the other polyglycerol-based emulsifiers

Cold Process Emulsions 25°C

Oil Phase (tot. 30%) Viscosity (cPs)2

Stability(1 month at 50°C)Emulsifier Emollients1

A Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

5% 25%

– Unstable

B Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate – Unstable

C Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 7150 3Stable¶

D Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2550 Unstable

E PolyAquol™–OS2 3950 3Stable

1 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil , Isononyl Isononanoate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Stearate 2 Brookfield, RVDV-I, Sp 92, 10 rpm

¶ separation after 3 months at 25°C

Optical microscopy analysis (600X)

Compatibility with silicone oils and enhancement of silicone-emulsifier performance

Excellent compatibility with silicone oils

PolyAquol™–OS2 allows to obtain stable emulsions with a high content of silicone oil up to 50% of the oil phase

Compatibility with silicone oils

Oil Phase (tot. 30%)Viscosity (cPs)2 Stability

(1 month at 50°C)PolyAquol™–OS2 Cyclomethicone Emollients1

3% 10% 17% 6950 3Stable

5% 10% 15% 11300 3Stable

5% 15% 10% 13150 3Stable

1 Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Magnesium Stearate 2 Brookfield, RVDV-I, Sp 92, 10 rpm

PolyAquol™–OS2– is fully compatible with silicone emulsifiers

– enhances the performances of silicone emulsifiers

– augments the homogeneity of the emulsion and increases its stability

Enhancement of silicone-emulsifier performance

Emulsifier Viscosity (cPs)1

Stability(1 month at 50°C)

Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18

DimethiconePolyAquol™–OS2

– 5% 11300 3Stable

5% – 8150 Unstable

3% 2% 19500 3Stable

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1

DimethiconePolyAquol™–OS2

– 5% 11300 3Stable

5% – 18450 Unstable

3% 2% 18300 3Stable

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl

DimethiconePolyAquol™–OS2

– 5% 11300 3Stable

5% – 13900 Unstable

3% 2% 12000 3Stable

1 Brookfield, RVDV-I, Sp 92, 10 rpm

Optical microscopy analysis (600X)

Cold Process Emulsions 25°C

Cold Process Emulsions 25°C

PolyAquol™–OS2Cyclopentasiloxane,

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Combination

Skin care application – Sensorial evaluation

PolyAquol™–OS2 vs Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Identical formulations containing 5% of either emulsifiers

Tested in a blind fashion on the back of the hand

FORMULA A FORMULA B

INCI PolyAquol™–OS2 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1

DimethiconeFunction

A

PolyAquol™–OS2 5.0% – W/O Emulsifier

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone – 5.0% W/O Emulsifier

Magnesium Stearate 2.0% 2.0% Consistency Agent

Paraffinum Liquidum 2.5% 2.5% Emollient

Isodecyl Neopentanoate 5.5% 5.5% Emollient

Cyclomethicone 15.0% 15.0% Emollient

B

Aqua (Water) up to 100% up to 100%

Glycerin 5.0% 5.0% Humectant

Disodium EDTA 0.05% 0.05% Chelating Agent

Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate 2.0% 2.0% Stabilizer

C Preservative a.n. a.n. Preservative

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Formula B)PolyAquol™–OS2 (Formula A)

Lightness Stickiness

Emolliency Absorption

Spreadability

Film Forming effect

01

56789

10

234

PolyAquol™–OS2 provides unique sensorial properties to a formulation

– Brings a high spreadability index

– Increases lightness and absorption

– Reduces stickiness

Oil Phase (tot. 30%)

Viscosity (cPs)1

Emulsifier Pigments

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl

Dimethicone

Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18

DimethiconePolyAquol™–OS2 Iron oxides &

Titanium dioxides

6%

2%

26500

6% 13000

6% /

6% 15500

1 Brookfield, RVDV-I, Sp 92, 10 rpm Oil phase: innollient™SL, Cyclomethicone, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Magnesium Stearate

3Stable Unstable Unstable 3Stable After 1 month at 50°C

Theoretical SPF 15 20 (cold process) 25

UV filters Inorganic Organic & Inorganic

UVAButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2%

Zinc Oxide 8% 4% 6.5%

UVB

Benzophenone-3 1%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5% 1%

Homosalate 1%

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7% 7%

Titanium Dioxide (and) Trimethoxycaprylylsilane 4%

Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica 5% 3%

Total 13% 20% 21.5%

Oil Phase * ** *

PolyAquol™–OS2 5% 4% 5%

Viscosity (Brookfield, RVDV-I) 28000 cps

(Sp 93, 10 rpm)21000 cps

(Sp 92, 10 rpm)28000 cps

(Sp 93, 10 rpm)

Stability (1 month at 50°C) 3Stable 3Stable 3Stable

* Oil Phase (50%): PolyAquol™–OS2, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Coco -Caprylate, innollient™LO, innollient™SL, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Magnesium Stearate ** Oil Phase (40%): PolyAquol™–OS2, Paraffinum Liquidum, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Cyclomethicone, Magnesium Stearate

Suncare – Organic & Inorganic UV filters

Makeup – Pigment dispersion

PolyAquol™–OS2 is compatible with organic and inorganic UV filters

Optical microscopy analysis (600X) Arrowheads: agglomeration of iron oxides

PolyAquol™–OS2– is compatible with pigments

– Provides a homogeneous distribution of pigments

– Prevents agglomeration of pigments in the oil phase

PolyAquol™–OS2The emulsifying properties of PolyAquol™–OS2 (patent pending) mainly reside in the synergy between polyhydroxystearic structures and selected polyglycerol derivatives of fatty acids. The ratio into which those components are combined together allows for the formation of a hydrophilic pocket mainly created by the polyglycerol heads. Lipophilic tails are externally oriented and interact with the oil phase completing the W/O emulsion. This molecular arrangement provides strong emulsifying properties without the need of co-emulsifiers. PolyAquol™–OS2 is completely natural (PEG-free), can be used for cold-process emulsions and endows formulations with a remarkable sensory profile.

Technical information INCI: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

W/O emulsions

Silicone containing W/O emulsion

Recommended use level: 2-6%

Cold-process emulsions

PolyAquol™–OS2 is compatible with:

– Polar oils

– Pigments

– Organic and inorganic UV filters

– High % of internal water phase

– Silicone oils

– Silicone emulsifiers

– Waxes (e.g. microcrystalline wax)

– Consistency agents (e.g. magnesium stearate)

Applications Skin care

BB & CC creams

Sun care

Baby care

Make up

“Green emulsions”

Background

Formulation

Innovacos corp.111 Howard Blvd, Suite 160 Mt. Arlington New Jersey 07856

info@innovacos.com

www.innovacos.com

© 2014 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique

(02/15)