vol 2, issue i, apr-jun 2016 - le passage to india new delhi- 110016 india and printed on its behalf...

Vol 2, Issue I, Apr-Jun 2016

4 | INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

Contents

DestinationSecret, secluded, and difficult to reach except by water, the Sunderbans is a place of fierce and unrestrained beauty.

Festive IndiaCome autumn, and Bengalis across the world prepare to celebrate their biggest, grandest, and most beloved festival – the Durga Puja.

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10Cover StoryThe Andaman and Nicobar Islands are made up of about 574 islands (of which only 34 are inhabited) formed by a submarine mountain range that divides the Bay of Bengal from the Andaman Sea.

Volume 2 Issue I | April-June 2016

Chairman Arjun SharmaManaging Director Mario Habig

Advertising Ramesh Punjabi,Pravin Bhardwaj

Editor Arundhati ChowdhuryAssistant Editor Subani Saxena

Design Rajesh Chhetri, Ashok Mathur, Arshad Ali

Contact Details:

All information in Inspiring Journeys is derived from sources we consider reliable. It is passed on to our readers without any responsibility on our part. Opinions/views expressed by third parties in abstract or in interviews are not necessarily shared by us. Material appearing in the magazine cannot be reproduced in whole or in part(s) without prior permission. The publisher reserves the right to refuse, withdraw or lost or damage in transit. The publisher reserves the right to refuse, withdraw or otherwise deal with all advertisements without explanation. All advertisements must comply with the Indian Advertisements Code. The publisher will not be liable for any loss caused by any delay in publication, error or failure of advertisement to appear.

Owned and published by Le Passage to India Tours & Travels Pvt Ltd, E-29, Hauz Khas, New Delhi- 110016 India and printed on its behalf at Pritha Offsets Pvt. Ltd.,B 62/11, Naraina Industrial Area, Phase - II, New Delhi – 110028.

Cover: gettyimages

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5INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |

A Bite of IndiaTraditional Bengali cuisine, like many other cuisines in India, has, over the centuries, absorbed the ingredients, flavours, and styles of many influences in the subcontinent – a result of India’s vast trade links with the rest of the world.

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The Great Escape

Experiences

The Zanskar Valley is impossibly cold and the air only gets thinner as you climb higher. But what awaits you is magnificent – the sight of the gorgeous Zanskar River as it winds its way across the Valley. And rafting down this splendid river is an experience you will never forget.

Take a look at the top 5 Heritage Walks of India that cannot be missed.

Green InitiativeLe Passage’s sustainable tourism think-tank researched, tested, and created the concept of ‘Message in a Bottle’.

Hotel FeatureBarefoot at Havelock resort is keenly aware that their guests’ choice of this destination is driven by a perception of the Andamans Islands as one of the last frontiers of outstanding pristine natural beauty.


Message from the MD

Dear Partners,

It gives me the greatest pleasure to share with you that Inspiring Journeys completes A YEAR this month!

We couldn’t be more excited to have made it to this point. When we set out to create an exclusive magazine that would showcase India in all its magnificence,

we had a vision – to portray as much of this beautiful country as possible; and to unveil that beauty not only to readers in India, but well beyond these shores.

Over the past year, we have attempted to do just that, unfolding India bit by bit, so you can travel, explore, and discover WITH us!

Having said that, we do live and work in the age of the internet, when print is almost an unknown again. It’s exciting for us to enhance the experience of reading a print magazine and bring to you all the wonderful things it offers!

Tourism in India has an incredible array to offer – so many different terrains, cultures, faiths, climates, tastes, smells, and flavours, come together to become veritable melting pots of society. And often, just travelling somewhere can sometimes be as exciting as the destination itself!

That is why we, at Le Passage, are constantly at work, creating new and fantastic experiences that entice visitors from all over the world to our land.

In this very special issue, we dedicate our cover story to that rare jewel of the Bay of Bengal – the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. We explore the remarkably pristine natural wealth of these remote

islands and salute the indomitable spirit of the islanders.

Come with us to West Bengal as we join in the celebration of the home-coming of its beloved Goddess.

Enter the deep, murky, mysterious waters of the world’s largest mangrove forests, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and feel unseen eyes watching you all the time!

Discover the culinary secrets of the Bengali kitchen and the amazing variety of pleasures it offers to those of us who love rich yet subtle flavours.

Travel the rough road to one of the most remote yet magnificent valleys up in the mountains of Ladakh, and ride its breath taking river.

Beginning with this edition, we bring you a new column – featuring guest writers/travellers narrating their travel experiences in India.

We hope you enjoy our anniversary edition of Inspiring Journeys. True to its name, our magazine is here to inspire people to come to India! We have much, much more to explore yet and would love to share this vast land with you. As a leading DMC, we look forward to bringing you more adventures and discoveries, and taking you to the places you are reading about.

Inspiring Journeys is especially for those of us who love to travel yet sometimes forget to appreciate every moment!

And if our efforts inspire you to make your own journeys to find your own stories, then we would have achieved our goal.

Here’s to a year of new journeys that will bring you much joy.

With warm regards,

Mario Habig Managing Director

Le Passage to India Journeys

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.— Marcel Proust


News

According to data released by Department of Tourism, Govt. of Goa, there was no drop in foreign tourist arrivals in 2015. A total

of 52,97,902 tourists visited Goa in 2015 which includes 47,56,422 domestic tourists and 5,41,480 foreign tourists. While the state has recorded an overall 30.54 per cent increase in tourist arrivals for 2015, domestic tourist arrivals were up by 34 per cent and foreign tourist arrivals up by 5.4 per cent. Tourist arrivals during the monsoon (June, July and August 2015) recorded a 22 per cent increase as against an 18 per cent increase in 2014. Foreign tourist arrivals to Goa from UK, Russia, UAE, USA, Portugal, South Africa and many others have shown an increase in arrivals to the State despite continued recession and crises that hit the European regions. The eTV regime introduced by the Central government in December 2014 has also facilitated easy access of foreign tourists to Goa. Within a year (Till December 31 2015) a total of 49,626 eTVs were issued to foreign tourists.

Need to travel at short notice on an emergency or a job interview? Transporting an elderly or sick person,

but unable to get confirmed railway tickets under the Emergency Quota (EQ)? You can call up a newly set-up emergency cell of Southern Railways where an officer will ensure that tickets are released under the emergency quota after verifying the genuineness of the case.This recently launched initiative, probably the only one of its kind in the Indian Railways, is the brainchild of chief commercial manager of Southern Railways, Ajeet Saxena. “Any facility that can be accessed by my old mother or family members when they are travelling should be available to those who are facing a genuine emergency,” he said.The officer noticed that tickets under EQ were going to influential people and not the common man. The new system promises that the facility will be made available to any deserving person. Southern Railways has also given the contact number of the officer on special duty, Ishaq Shareiff, who is in charge of the special cell. There are individual helpline numbers for every division as well. In every division, the Senior Divisional Commercial Managers (Sr DCM) will be the nodal officer, and Southern Railways will release their contact numbers next week.Preference will be given to soldiers travelling at short notice, the elderly, those unwell, women travelling alone, pregnant women, students travelling for interviews and children who need assistance in emergency travel situations. The special cell can also be contacted in case of other emergencies for ambulances, medicines and wheel chairs.

Tourist arrivals in Goa cross 5 million mark in 2015

Now get railway tickets confirmed for emergency travel


News

Rajasthan signs 20 MoUs for Tourism

The Rajasthan Government has signed 20 Memoranda of Understanding (MoU) for projects worth over `963.65

crores to develop the tourism and hospitality industry in the state. Apart from these, 31 MoUs were also signed and these projects are expected to generate 26,678 jobs in the sectors of Industry, Agriculture, Urban Development and Housing (UDH), and Mining and Tourism. The proposal received for the projects are spread all over the state such as Jaipur, Bikaner, Alwar, Neemrana, Kota, Baran, Sawai Madhopur, Udaipur, Kishangarh, Jodhpur, Pushkar, Masuda (Ajmer district), Chittorgarh, Mordi (Banswara district), among others. The MoU signing ceremony was presided over by Vasundhara Raje, Chief Minister, Government of Rajasthan. Raje said that during the Resurgent Rajasthan Partnership Summit, they signed 295 MoUs

amounting to `3.21 lakh crores cutting across sectors. She added that the aim of the state is to keep the momentum going and to continue to facilitate investment in the state.

Air India adds new flights on domestic and International routes

Air India has announced its Summer schedule for 2016 with new

flights between Bengaluru-Thiruvananthapuram, Kolkata-Agartala, Vijayawada- Bengaluru and the much-awaited Dehi-Vienna flight. The national carrier will also increase its frequency in the Mumbai-Bhopal, Delhi-Amritsar, Delhi-Pune, and Delhi-Kullu (Himachal) sectors. Increasing its frequency in the domestic sectors, Air India has also added a daily return flight in the Mumbai-Bhopal sector. The flight will offer day-return facility to its passengers with a flight from Mumbai departing at 1930 hrs. The return flight from Bhopal will take off at 2130 hrs.On its International routes, Air India will start operations in the Delhi-Vienna sector with flights operating thrice a week on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday by B787 commencing April 06, 2016. Passengers looking for more options to Punjab will also be able to enjoy the

Now plan your travel with Google Destinations on mobiles

Search engine giant Google has introduced Destinations, a new feature which will enable users to explore

cities, book flights and also provide travel recommendations. This is a mobile only feature that will also integrate Google Flights and Hotel Search. Moreover, it will also provide instant information, so that users can compare different prices offered by various companies.

fourth frequency with return flights in the Delhi (Del)-Amritsar (ATQ) vv sector. Customers flying to Russia will now have the facility of a third frequency in the Delhi-Moscow vv sector. Passengers travelling on the Mumbai-Delhi-Hong Kong-Seoul/Osaka route and back will now have the comfort of the state-of-the-art B787 aircraft. To continue expanding its ‘Connect India’ program, Air India will now offer new routes to Vijayawada from Bengaluru with five return flights a week on its ATR 42. Kolkata will also be connected to Agartala by an ATR 42 with five return flights per week. Tourists to Himachal have a daily frequency from Delhi to Kullu in lieu of the existing six days a week.

10| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

Cover Story

The LandBefore TimeThe LandBefore Time

Andaman Island

The islands lay on the trade route between Burma and India, and made their first appearance on Ptolemy’s 2nd century map; and

also recorded by the Chinese traveller I-Tsing in the 7th century CE. For thousands of years the islands were inhabited by Aboriginal tribes but remained unexplored, firstly because they were inaccessible, and secondly, adventurous seamen who finally discovered them and did attempt to come ashore, would be stopped – either attacked or repelled or killed!

The indigenous Andamanese people seem to have lived on these islands in isolation, completely cut off from the rest of the world, though they were briefly used and controlled by both the Tamil Chola kings

and the Marathas as naval

bases for their empires in the 11th and 17th centuries respectively. The real time of contact happened only in the 18th century when the islands were first colonised by the Danish, and then by the British, who finally managed to gain control of most of the islands and used them as a sort of penal colony for prisoners. Political prisoners from various parts of India began to be sent here in large numbers only after the completion of the Cellular Jail in 1906. Today, the numbers of the indigenous Andaman people (the Onge, Jarawa, Sentinelese, Karen) and the Nicobar people (the Nicobarese, Shompen) may have dwindled, but they stay independent, protected, and more or less untouched by modern ‘civilisation’. The Andamans is home to not only Indians but also Burmese, Malays, Bangladeshis, and

emigrants from Guyana and Sri Lanka.

From up in the air, lying some 20,000 odd feet below in India’s Bay of Bengal, the archipelago looks stunning. But the view isn’t just that. It’s also a transforming experience. The earth somehow appears different…as if there was nothing covering the planet but limitless expanses of aquamarine water…only broken here and there by strips of emerald land!

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are made up of about 574 islands (of which only 34 are inhabited) formed by a submarine mountain range that divides the Bay of Bengal from the Andaman Sea. Yet again, the Andaman Islands are separated from the Nicobar Islands by a 150 km strait. The islands of Nicobar are strictly off limits since the native heritage is fiercely guarded by both the indigenous people as well as the Indian government.

This remote chain of tropical islands is thickly forested (96 per cent forest cover of which 86 per cent is protected), lush, and covered with rainforest and tropical trees, volcanoes, mangrove swamps, and wonderful palm-fringed, white-sand stretches of beach, and the biggest beauty of them all…the coral reefs!

It’s in discovering and exploring this marvellous marine world and its sparkling, clear waters…that the pleasure of holidaying

Cover Story

In 1890 Sir Arthur Conan Doyle described the inhabitants of an island thus “perhaps…the smallest race upon this earth…fierce, morose, intractable”.Doyle was describing the natives of the Andaman Islands, the place that has significant mention in his story The Sign of Four.


QAMAR ZAFeeR

Qamar looks after the Italy, Nordic, and Greece markets, as well as the product and services platform. He is passionate about tourism and in his free time explores the country’s hidden gems with his scholar friends.He can be contacted at [email protected]

Ross Island


Cover Story

in the Andamans lies. If you love the water and want to reconnoitre the seabed, then by all means, scuba dive in! Or you could snorkel in the bay, swim in coves, windsurf, water ski, fish…or simply relax as you whizz on the water in doongis (motorboats), boats, little ships, and ferries, from one island to another. For birdwatchers, trekkers, and nature lovers in general, the islands are pure paradise – offering you walks (or drives) through canopied rainforests that are home to hundreds and thousands of species of birds, mammals, reptiles, and plants. Here’s a pick of some of the finest holiday spots in the islands:

SOUTH ANDAMANS

PORT BLAIR, the capital, is about 1200 km from Chennai and Kolkata, and is connected by several daily flights from both cities, and also from Delhi. Port Blair is known perhaps as both the gateway to these immaculate islands, and also the erstwhile British penal colony. It’s a small town where you can go easily on a sights tour in a couple of days.

SIgHTSThe Cellular Jail, the most striking landmark of Port Blair, was originally built by the British and till 1938, was used to incarcerate Indian freedom fighters. Three of the original seven wings survive. The Jail complex is large, clean, kept well, and even has flower gardens. The museum here displays photographs and lists of the ‘prisoners’.

The Chatham Saw Mill is one of the oldest in Asia. You can take a tour through the mill and also visit the Forest Museum here which showcases unusual local varieties of wood.

The Marine Museum has a collection of shells and corals, and displays 350 species of marine life.

The Zonal Anthropological Museum is worth visiting for its interesting collection of photographs of early exploratory expeditions, and the beautifully handcrafted weapons and artefacts of the natives.

MOUNT HARRIeT is 55 km by road / 15 km by ferry and trek from Port Blair. It was once the summer headquarters of the Chief Commissioner during the British rule.

Mount Harriet is the highest peak in the South Andamans (365 m).

VIPeR ISLAND is near Haddo Wharf at the mouth of the harbour. This served as a prison base before the Cellular Jail was built.

CORBYN’S COVe is 7 km south of Port Blair and quite famous for its beach. Watch out for crocodiles though!

COLLINPUR is 35 km south of Port Blair and the nearest beach where you can swim. The beach is pretty, but again, watch out for crocodiles!

NORTH BAY beach is just north of Port Blair. The beach offers snorkelling in the coral reefs that fringe it and can be reached by ferry from Aberdeen Jetty.

Cellular Jail, Port Blair

Ruins of abandoned church covered with roots, Ross Island

elephant bathing Havelock Island — Courtesy Barefoot at Havelock


CINQUe ISLAND is 26 km from Port Blair. With its tropical rainforests Cinque Island is a sanctuary with rare corals and under-water marine life, and has a sand–bar connecting North and South Cinque Islands.

ROSS ISLAND is just a 15 minute ferry ride from Port Blair. It was once the home of the indigenous Great Andamanese, and was the capital from 1848 till 1941, when the Japanese took control and turned it into a POW base. The ruins of the church in the centre, the British Chief Commissioner’s Residence amidst creepers and vines, and the Subalterns’ Club, are reminiscent of a bygone era.

MAHATMA GANDHI MARINe NATIONAL PARK (NP) is at Wandoor, which is 29 km south-west of Port Blair, and is an easy bus ride away. The NP, which was created

in 1983, protects and conserves some fantastic coral beds and the tropical marine eco-system here. It covers an area of 280 sq km, and has 15 uninhabited tropical islands thick with lush forests and mangroves. The rich marine life includes exotic and rare species of fish, lovely shells, and beautifully coloured corals. While on land, you can see several wonderful species of birds and plants. Only two islands are open to visitors – Jolly Buoy and Red Skin – alternatively for 6 months each. Tours begin at Wandoor village with a ferry ride through some stunning mangroves, and also include a tour of the coral reef in a glass-bottomed boat, snorkelling, and a drop-off at the beach where you can spend the next couple of hours. The two islands have gorgeous talcum-white beaches and offer simply outstanding views of the underwater corals and marine life.

The tranquil island of CHIDIYA TAPU is 30 km south of Port Blair, and only an hour by road. It has marvellous beaches; tours that offer some great snorkelling, diving, and glass bottomed boat rides. The island also has several small trails inside the forest that are great for birdwatching, and is famous for its gorgeous sunset experience, simply not to be missed!

BARATANgLying between the South and Middle Andaman Islands, and 100 km north of Port Blair, the island of Baratang, with its gorgeous beaches and mangrove creeks, is famous for its mud volcanoes and limestone caves. It also has a unique, uninhabited islet called Tota Tekri (Parrot Island), which is surrounded by mangroves that are visited by hundreds of parrots (parakeets actually) every evening! At sunset, the parrots congregate and roost here. And leave the island the next morning. This is an amazing sight and absolutely worth the effort. The Baludera Beach is on this island. The Andaman Trunk Road to Rangat and Mayabunder goes through this island.

MIDDLe AND NORTH ANDAMANS

The Andaman Trunk Road is the only road to the north from Port Blair. It passes through the restricted Jarawa tribal reserve but there are daily buses to Rangat and Mayabunder. The journey

Cover Story

Women’s Jail, Viper Island

Underwater CoralKingfisher at Havelock Island


sees some spectacular landscapes and forests.

MIDDLe ANDAMANS RANGATRangat is 170 km by road and 90 km by sea from Port Blair.

About 8 km from Rangat is the eco-friendly Aamkunj Beach which is good for snorkelling. The other places worth exploring around Rangat are the Dhaninallah Mangrove Nature Walk Way and Morcidera.

MAYABUNDeRSituated on the northernmost edge of Middle Andaman Island, and surrounded by mangrove swamps, Mayabunder is 157 km by sea from Port Blair. It juts out as a peninsula into the sea northwards between Middle Andaman and North Andaman Island. You can visit the enchanting black sand Karmatang Beach which is 13 km away. The sea is quite gentle here, and the sand soft. Avis Beach is a convex-shaped beach, so unlike most others, it juts out into the sea. The trip to this beach is worth the visit to the beautiful white-ringed coconut plantation that sits in the middle of a small island here. Permission is required to visit the island. And then, for the big adventure lover, Interview Island is perfect. About a three hour doongi ride away from Mayabunder, the uninhabited island is covered with dense jungle, mangrove creeks, and is home to wild elephants! Only day visits are permitted.

NORTH ANDAMANS

DIgLIPUREarlier called Port Cornwallis, Diglipur island is the northernmost region for tourists and travellers. Diglipur is famous for its oranges, rice and quiet village life. Flowing through the island is Kalpong, the only river of the Andamans.

KALIPUR BeACH22 km from Diglipur is the wonderful, serene, palm tree-lined Kalipur Beach. The Beach provides lovely views of Ross Island and is set against the impressive backdrop of Saddle Peak (730 m), the highest peak of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands.

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are also home to the beautiful Olive Ridley turtles during their nesting period in December/January. Turtle nesting takes place at Kalipur beach, which also has a turtle hatchery. This is a truly incredible sight…don’t miss the chance to see thousands of these fascinating, primitive creatures as they slowly gather on the beach.

LAMIYA BAY BeACHA few kilometres ahead of Kalipur lies the pebbled Lamiya Bay Beach. The beach lies at the foothills of Saddle Peak. To make a trek to Saddle Peak NP, its best to start early in the morning after camping at Lamiya Bay.

ROSS AND SMITH ISLANDS are tiny, circular

islands just north, connected to one another by a natural silvery white sandbar, which in turn is transformed into a lovely beach. Evergreen tropical forests cover the expanse of the two islands. What makes these islands truly beautiful and unique is that during high tide, the sandbar disappears, leaving a trail of water between the two islands and during low tide the sand bar appears again, creating the effect of a dumbbell-like shape! The islands have a marine sanctuary making them perfect to do a spot of scuba diving or snorkelling to view the beautiful coral reefs and stunning underwater life. The surrounding tropical forests are great for trekking and trail hiking. Ross and Smith Islands are also home to the Olive Ridley turtles that come here to nest in the winter months – a phenomenon absolutely worth sighting!

The limestone Alfred Caves are near Ram Nagar Beach. You need to hire a guide or take the help of a forest guard to accompany you on the trek through the forest to the cluster of 41 caves. It’s best to start early in the morning so that you are back by evening.

RITCHIe’S ARCHIPeLAGOLying about 20-40 km off the east coast of South Andaman and Baratang, Ritchie’s Archipelago consists of mostly inhabited islands, of which only three are open to foreign tourists: Havelock, Neil, and Long Island. They can be reached by ferry from Port Blair and Rangat Bay.

Cover Story

Leatherback Turtle


HAVeLOCK ISLAND21 nautical miles northeast of Port Blair, this gorgeous island with its long stretch of pristine beaches is undeniably one of the loveliest in the entire archipelago. Also, strolling through its paddy fields, and banana and coconut plantations, is a nice way to unwind at leisure. The most exciting spots though, are the Radhanagar Beach, which is a striking curved bay with a sudden beautiful lagoon at the far end; and the narrow but stunning Elephant Beach, which can be reached by either ferry or a short jungle trek. Vijaynagar Beach and Kalapather Beach are also great stretches if you enjoy long walks.

The sea along the coast of Havelock is rich in coral and marine life, offering some of the best spots to go diving: Seduction Point, Aquarium, and Lighthouse are the most popular spots; other good spots are Pilot Reef, Mac Point, Turtle Bay, and Minerva Ledge. Snorkelling is also wonderful here, especially at the Lighthouse near Elephant Beach and Aquarium, which have shallow coral ecosystems.

NeIL ISLAND19 nautical miles northeast of Port Blair, this is the smallest island in the Andamans that tourists are permitted to stay on. The island is dense with lush green forests and is quite peaceful since it has much fewer visitors than Havelock. The Bharatpur Beach here is great for swimming and

coral-spotting. At the Sitapur Beach, where you can watch the sunrise, a lovely curve of the bay ends at limestone caves where the Hawabill birds (unique to the Andamans) build their ‘edible’ nests! Then there is a natural rock formation in Laxmanpur Beach which is also called the Howrah Bridge, possibly due to its unique shape! It’s good to see this during low tide. Sir Hugh Rose Island (also called Chhota Neil) is a tiny island at the southern tip of Neil Island. It has been declared a wild life sanctuary and is a turtle-nesting ground. Visitors require permission from the Forest Department at Neil Island and only day visits are permitted.

LONg ISLAND47 nautical miles from Port Blair, this small, unspoilt island has silvery beaches, secluded coves perfect for sunbathing and snorkelling, green hills, swamp and evergreen forests, and immense marine wealth. Long Island is also a birder’s paradise. The main beach of this beautiful island is Lalaji Bay. The coconut tree-lined beach is pristine and is a two hour trek through the forest or reached by boat. The area around Long Island has some of the best dive sites in the Andamans. You can also take day trips by boat to beautiful Merk Bay on North Passage Island, where you might get the chance to see dolphins! And if you’re feeling rather adventurous, you can travel further to the exotic Button Islands: North Button,

South Button and Middle Button.

LITTLe ANDAMAN ISLANDHome to the Onge, one of the last remaining negrito tribes, the island lies 120 km south of Port Blair across the Duncan Passage, around 6 hours by boat. Much of the island is covered by betel, red oil palm, and banana plantations. Hut Bay in Little Andaman is the entry and exit point and also the island headquarters. 14 km away is Butler Bay Beach, with white coral sands, and great for surfing. Also 14 km east of Hut Bay, stands the Little Andaman lighthouse (41 m). 200 steps up the spiral tower, and you have spectacular views of the coastline and forests. There are also lovely waterfalls on the island. White Surf waterfall is 6.5 km away in the rainforest and can be reached by a path along a freshwater creek. You can also trek to the top of the waterfall which is like a pool on the hill. Whisper Wave waterfall is 25 km away, again, in the forest. You need to trek 4 km through the rain forest to get here. There are two more waterfalls above Whisper Wave, and more at Krishna Tala. You could also bird-watch at 18 km (RK Pur) Dam, or visit the Red Oil Palm Plantation.

But perhaps Little Andaman’s most delightful claim to fame is this: it’s now famous as one of India’s finest surfing destinations! So if you love to ride the waves, then grab your board and simply surf!

Cover Story

Beautiful cottage at Havelock Island Neil Island beach


GReAT NICOBAR

Now this one requires immense patience, determination, and an iron-clad stomach!!Great Nicobar is 500 km south of Port Blair. It’s actually a 40 hour ship journey which is definitely NOT for the seasick! There is also a weekly helicopter service and ferry services from Port Blair. The only town here is Campbell Bay, which has a lone guesthouse.

However, if you do manage to make the journey, know that you’re going to feel like one who’s just been blessed! For Great Nicobar has glorious beaches and sands, crystal clear waters, lush rainforests… which sounds exactly like the other islands but with a little difference: it’s virtually free of tourists! If you ardently desire immense solitude, then Great Nicobar it is! When you’re here be sure to see the Indira Point Lighthouse at the southernmost edge

of Great Nicobar. Beware of crocodiles though!

Once primitive, remote, and inaccessible, the Andaman Islands are now world-class holiday destinations that offer a mind-boggling range of fantastic activities and experiences to choose from! You’ll simply fall in love with these!

Adventure water sports include water skiing, water scooter, speed-boat rides, wind-surfing; safe water sports include paddle boats, row boats, and water cycles. Then there’s all this too: game fishing; forest and beach camping; snorkelling and scuba diving; sea walk; sailing; kayaking; trekking; bird watching; mangrove creek safari; even an elephant ride; or simply beach-combing, sunbathing, swimming, and watching the sunrise and sunset over the emerald waters!

On December 26, 2004 the tsunami that shook the Indian Ocean devastated the coasts of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, killing and injuring thousands of people, and destroying homes. The consequent road to complete recovery, rehabilitation, and restoration has been neither easy nor quick. But nearly 12 years on, these incredibly pristine and exquisite islands still stand solitary, remote even, with great pride – having solidly established themselves as not only one of the finest and safest holiday and adventure destinations in the world today but also as protectors and preservers of the islands’ native peoples and ancient heritage, their glorious natural beauty, and their spectacular marine ecosystems.

These peaceful islands, rich with beauty and mystery, are among India’s most cherished treasures. Do visit. n

Cover Story

Nicobar Pigeon (Caloenas nicobarica)

ParasailingFishing — Courtesy Barefoot at Havelock


The nip in the early morning air heralds the arrival of the divine Goddess. Come autumn, and Bengalis across the world prepare to celebrate their biggest,

grandest, and most beloved festival – the Durga Puja. Durga Puja begins with Mahalaya.

According to legend, Goddess Durga visits the earth for only four days but begins her descent to earth seven days before the Puja. Hence, the auspicious occasion of Mahalaya, observed seven days before the Durga Puja, announces the advent of Durga, who is Shakti (supreme power) personified. Mahalaya is an invocation of the mother Goddess, inviting her to descend on earth saying “Jaago Tumi Jaago, Jaago Durga…” (“Rise O Durga...”).

DeVI: The unvanquished oneYaa Devi sarva bhuteshu Maatri rupena samsthitaaYaa Devi sarva bhuteshu Shakti rupena samsthitaaYaa Devi sarva bhutesu Shanti rupena samsthitaaNamastasyai Namastasyai Namastasyai Namoh Namah

(To that Goddess who in all beings is abiding in the form of Mother To that Goddess who in all beings is abiding in the form of powerTo that Goddess who in all beings is abiding in the form of peace Salutations to her, Salutations to her, Salutations to her)

– Aparajita Stuti: Yaa Devi Sarva Bhutesu

Durga idol

Artisan at work in Kumortuli


Since the early 1930s these beautiful words have been brought alive to millions of Bengalis around the world by AIR (All India Radio) – when it started the early morning programme Mahisasura Mardini or The Annihilation of the Demon – by the sonorous and enchanting voice of the legendary Birendra Krishna Bhadra. The programme, a lovely audio montage of

recitation from the scriptural verses of the Chandi

Kavya, Bengali devotional songs, and classical music, continues to run to this very day. Much before sunrise, Bhadra’s moving invocation fills the air, marking the beginning of the countdown to Durga Puja.

Bhadra, in his inimitable style, recites the holy verses and tells the story of the descent of Durga to earth. Bhadra has long passed, but his voice remains the heart of Mahalaya.

And this is the voice every Bengali home waits for – for it means that Durga has finally come to her home: to be loved, revered, and celebrated!

Durga means ‘one who is difficult to approach’. She is the Mother Goddess (Maa), the one who embodies the primeval source of all power. She personifies love, compassion, beauty, prosperity, and all virtues. She is worshipped in 64 different forms, of which Parvati, the wife of Siva is one. In her form as the Goddess Durga, she is the beautiful and terrifying warrior with ten arms, each arm carrying ten different lethal weapons given to her by the Gods; she rides a lion to battle with the evil buffalo demon Mahisasura, finally slaying him with her trident after a fierce combat. Heaven and earth rejoice at her victory.

This is the essence of the festival. Durga Puja not only marks this great victory but also epitomises the triumph of Good over Evil. The deeper message being to annihilate all desire and unfold divinity in each one of us! In Bengal, Durga is worshipped as the destroyer of evil and the protector of her devotees.

The first grand worship of the Goddess Durga in recorded history is said to have been celebrated in the late 1500s. Apparently, only the richest zamindar (feudal landlords)

NITeSH KAKKAR

Nitesh’s operational expertise, relaxed demeanour, and strong relationships with Industry partners are his biggest assets. His passion is to travel and experience new products, whether in India or overseas. He handles the Middle East and Africa markets at Le Passage. He can be contacted at [email protected]

Festive India

Sindur-khela

The dhak

Durga aarati


families would organise the Puja in their homes. However, in the 18th – 19th centuries and the early 20th century, the growing middle class, mainly in Calcutta, wished to celebrate Puja. They created the community or Sarbojanin Puja (puja for all), a tradition that carries to this day.

Commemorating the ten day festival are its six most important days – Mahalaya, Shashthi, Maha Saptami, Maha Ashtami, Maha Nabami and Vijayadashami.

But Durga Puja isn’t simply about ten days of fast, feast, worship, prayers, traditions, and religious rituals. The grand festival is also an occasion for family, friends, reunion, rejuvenation, and the celebration of that precious gift called life! And no other Indian city celebrates Durga Puja quite like Kolkata! Bengalis simply call it Pujo!

Charming, laid-back Kolkata springs to life during Pujo. The air is thick with the

fragrance of camphor, incense, and flowers; the aroma of fantastic food feasts being prepared wafts out of homes and temples; shops and malls overflow as frenzied shoppers buy new clothes, sweets, and Pujo items.

Meanwhile, across the city and its suburbs, thousands of special Pujo pandals (enormous temporary canopies – held by a framework of bamboo poles and draped with colourful fabric – where the exquisitely sculpted icons of the Goddess and other deities are placed for worship) are set up. The traditional icon of the goddess worshipped during the Durga Puja depicts the Goddess on a tableau – astride a lion, her trident piercing Mahisasura as he lies dying in both forms as half demon-half buffalo; also on the tableau are her four children – Kartikeya, Ganesha, Saraswati, and Lakshmi. The pratima (traditional clay image of Durga) with all five gods and goddesses under one structure is known as

‘ek-chala’ (one cover).

In Kumortuli, the famous artisans’ town in north Kolkata, preparations begin months in advance. Clay for the sculptures is collected from the banks of the Ganges, and work begins. The entire process of creation, right from sculpting to ornamentation, is done only according to traditional rituals. Beginning with Goddess Durga, the eyes of the deities are painted on them on Mahalaya. Before painting the eyes, the artisans fast for a day and eat only vegetarian food! The typical traditional pandal has today evolved to become a sheer visual extravaganza that is nothing short of spectacular! Pandal decoration is a very serious business indeed! Neighbourhoods compete with each other to create stunning, unique pandals – finally, the pandal created around the most outstanding theme, walks away with the honours! But the pandals

Pandal panel depicting Goddess Durga

Festive India


aren’t just places of worship – they come alive with art, music, dance, food, stalls, games, fairs, and cultural programmes.

Pujo in the city is like a giant, mad carnival that spills out into the streets…the streets are jammed, transport virtually comes to a standstill – but the enthusiastic, cheerful, tenacious Bengalis simply walk everywhere! They walk from neighbourhood to neighbourhood, pandal to pandal; distance, size, age, class, caste, religion – none of it matters…because this is Kolkata going to see its beloved Maa Durga.

Neon light images twinkle and the night skies are lit up with fireworks. Both popular as well as traditional music plays on loudspeakers. Food stalls serve delicious fare in every nook and corner of the city. Inside the pandal, crowds gather to offer pushpanjali (offering of flowers) in the mornings; women sound the “ululudhvani” (ululation); in the evenings, the dhakis (ritual drummers) play the dhak (ceremonial leather-strung drums); and as the beat of the dhak rises to a crescendo, the priest performs the aarati (ceremonial adoration with kindled lamps), to chants and singing. As the beauteous face of the Goddess glows with the light from the flame, everyone bows in prayer, invoking her blessings.

After nine days of worship and celebration, it is time to bid farewell to Maa Durga. On Vijaya Dashami (vijaya means victory), the tenth and last day of Durga Puja, women holding dhunuchi (earthen lamps filled with lit coconut husks) dance the traditional dhunuchi nritya in front of the Goddess to the beat of the dhak; married women participate in sindoor khela (smearing each other with red vermillion powder); then the idols are carried out in large processions from every corner of the city towards various ghats of the Ganga and immersed in the water (bishorjon) – to chants, and the beat of the dhak, symbolising the departure of the Goddess from the earth to be reunited with her consort Siva.

Later, families and friends visit each other. Greetings of “Shubho Bijoya” (auspicious victory) are then exchanged, and sweets offered.

As the fervour and clamour of the past few days slowly winds down, it is time for the people of Kolkata to now get back to work – their hearts full of their magnificent Goddess and the love, joy, courage, and strength she bestows on them every year.

Till next autumn. n

Festive India

Durga idol slowly being immersed in the Ganges on Dashami


112 km south of Kolkata, away from the charming city’s chaos and busy streets, is no ordinary city or town or even a thriving ‘tourist’ spot. For

here, deep in India’s vast and alluvial-rich Ganges Delta lies an incredible portion of the earth. The Sunderbans.

Secret, secluded, and difficult to reach except by water, the Sunderbans is a place of fierce and unrestrained beauty. Perhaps

A thousand dangers lurk beneath the foliage among the mire and sallow waters. Large and ancient crocodiles patiently await their prey, hiding by ponds and riverbanks; tigers stalk passing boats, ready to pounce upon

the first sailor that strays too close to shore. Rhinoceroses roam and attack at the slightest provocation; snakes abound in infinite varieties,

from tiny poisonous serpents to enormous pythons large enough to grind an ox within their coils.

– From The Mystery of the Black Jungle (Original Italian Title: I Misteri Della Jungla Nera), 1895

By emilio Salgari

The Royal Bengal Tiger, the Sunderbans

The of the Tiger


Destination

even somewhat intimidating at first sight. But this untamed treasure in the wild makes you catch your breath, and wonder…could a place like this possibly be so close to ‘ civilisation’ and yet so remote? But yes, it indeed is!

The Sunderbans is a delta in the Bay of Bengal that forms the world’s largest contiguous tidal mangrove forest. Named for the beautiful native sundari tree, this spectacular delta region is made up of densely forested, mangrove-fringed islands interwoven by an unbelievably labyrinthine network of creeks, backwaters, and canals that crisscross each other in a vast saltwater swamp.

From the water, mangrove trees like hetal, garjan, and sundari appear like gnarled, tangled forms – fringing the land with long, twisted roots that rise snorkel-like, through the thick mud of the swamp. The spiky roots are magnificent. The mangrove’s sprawling root system at the water’s

edge protects the land from erosion. The pneumatophores, as they are called, are specially modified roots of trees that grow out of the water’s surface to let the trees breathe.

The marvellous mangrove trees have

NeeRAJ MATHUR

Neeraj Mathur started his career in travel in 1992 as an Airport Representative. Today, he handles the NFF business from France, clients from Indonesia, Domestic clients through Le Passage’s local offices, and other corporate clients. Neeraj believes his USP to achieve goals and ensure Customer satisfaction is to keep his team positive and motivated always.He can be contacted at [email protected]

Fishing

Salt water crocodile in the mangroves


evolved over thousands of years to withstand the relentless pull of a powerful shifting tide that swamps the low-lying forest – constantly creating new banks – and then recedes, leaving behind only shimmering sand.

These remarkable mangroves are a mix of trees and shrubs that encompass two countries – southern Bangladesh and a part of West Bengal in India – covering an enormous area of 6,000 sq km and another 4,000 sq km respectively! On both sides of the border, densely populated villages flank protected areas specially earmarked for the region’s extraordinary and outstanding biodiversity.

The Sunderbans was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 and a Biosphere Reserve in 1989. It is also a National Park and a Tiger Reserve. The Sunderbans Tiger reserve is in South 24 Paraganas, West Bengal.

Here, in the deep, dark, swampy waters and its secret forests, you may see a brilliantly hued kingfisher or a noisy macaque or a silent estuarine crocodile… ostensibly sleeping!

The Sunderbans is an absolute paradise for an astounding and splendid array of diverse species of animals. If it’s your lucky day, you could spot all kinds of fantastic creatures – such as the rare Irrawaddy and Ganges River dolphins, the highly endangered Royal Bengal tiger, and other endangered species such as the saltwater crocodile, the river terrapin, the Olive Ridley Turtle, the hawksbill turtle, and the mangrove horseshoe crab.

And then at low tide, you might get to see other animals such as the wild boar, flying fox, pangolin, and spotted deer emerge from the forest; and often, on the mud banks, you’ll see the deep pugmarks of the elusive tiger!

Destination

White heron

Axis deer

Brown winged Kingfisher


The many species of mangrove are also home to more than 300 different species of birds, and an amazing variety of reptiles, and marine animals, including.

But the undisputed king of the mangroves is most definitely the stunning and menacing Royal Bengal Tiger. Both feared and protected, the big cat of the world’s largest mangrove forests is a unique one – standing out among its fellow cats all over the world. Here, in the swampy forests, the endangered tigers are completely at home. They are also powerful, excellent swimmers, allowing them to navigate their way around this watery landscape.

For the tiger to adapt to the tough Sunderbans terrain is a testament to the remarkable resilience of the species. However, surviving on the brackish water seems to have increased its appetite and changed its usual diet! The Sunderbans is the only place on earth where tigers still actively hunt humans for food! And the Sunderbans tiger is unbelievably dangerous.

Having said that, you should still go. Why? Because the star of the mangroves IS the Royal Bengal Tiger. One of the last major tiger populations on earth lives here. More than a hundred tigers live in the

Sunderbans, calling it home.

Funnily, despite their dubious reputation, the tigers are extremely difficult to spot, but the incredible thrill of trying to track one down is indescribable! And even if you’re disappointed at seeing none, simply cruising through thick mangrove forests on your boat is an experience you’ll never forget!

Sajnekhali, at the confluence of the Peechkali and Gomdi rivers, is the main entry point to the Sunderbans. Tourists can take routes chalked out by the Forest Department, in the Sajnekhali Wildlife Sanctuary and Tiger Reserve. But every boat that goes into the sanctuary area NEEDS a guide. The core area is closed to tourists but, you can visit other buffer areas, all accessible only by boats.

The Sajnekhali Tiger Reserve is the heart of the Sunderbans. It’s the only place where tourists can safely step onto land and explore the reserve, all with a guide of course! The reserve has a watchtower, a crocodile pond, an Olive Ridley Turtle enclosure, a museum, the Mangrove Interpretation Centre, and the Herbivore Acclimatisation Centre that rehabilitates lost deer!

The Sajnekhali Bird Sanctuary lies on

the confluence of the Matla and Gumdi rivers. For birders, this is wonderful – the rare Asian dowitcher, white ibis, paradise flycatcher, Caspian tern, white-bellied sea eagle, peregrine falcon…are just a few of the sheer variety of birds to spot here!

But perhaps what is truly worth doing here is to simply spend a day on the boat. Visit the mohona, the place where the waters of the five mighty rivers merge. Or navigate the amazing network of creeks, canals and backwaters. Monsoon cruises are especially stunning.

The largest mangrove forest in the world is a primeval place, shrouded in mist, crisscrossed by rivers; it’s a swamp of shifting tides, maze-like creeks and backwaters, silent man-eating tigers, and unusual adventure. It’s flanked by two of the most densely populated countries on earth – India and Bangladesh – yet it remains secluded, difficult and inhospitable, and largely uninhabited by people. But the breath taking Sunderbans is truly wild terrain – and when you ride the water to travel into its mysterious, swampy heart of darkness, it’s electrifying, enchanting, heart-stopping, and tranquil…all at once! Because in this place of shifting sands and tides, the indomitable mangroves are what hold the mighty land together. n

Destination

World’s largest mangrove forest


The Zanskar Valley is impossibly cold and the air only gets thinner as you climb higher. But what awaits you is magnificent – the sight of the

gorgeous Zanskar River as it winds its way across the Valley. And rafting down this splendid river is an experience you will never forget.

Remala, the base for the rafting expedition, is situated on the Stod River, a tributary of the Zanskar River. Remala lies 230 km SE of Kargil; 415 km SW of Leh. The route requires you to spend a few days acclimatising, preparing you to overcome the dizziness, headaches, and breathlessness; conditions that come with the high altitudes of the region.

Remala, beached by the gushing Stod that is racing through the mountains, is where the rafting expedition begins. Rafts are pumped up and gear is loaded; neoprene wetsuits, splash jackets, gloves and helmets are put on; safety and rescue instructions are issued

with great seriousness. The last bit is the one to pay attention to the most! Because, here in the beautiful but unpredictable Zanskar Valley, nothing is to be taken for granted or underestimated. When you’re rafting, especially if you’re a beginner, it’s only too easy to fall into the bitterly cold water – and get hypothermia, and that’s dangerous. In rafting, rivers are graded according to how easy, difficult, or even how dangerous they are, to navigate. The Zanskar is graded as a difficult class IV river!

Carrying the rafters are paddle rafts and oar-powered rafts, catarafts

for the gear, several

safety kayakers, and of course, the one person each group of rafters can’t do without – the guide.

The first stretches of the river are short and easy, with a few Class II rapids. Meanwhile, the guides are constantly at hand, giving lessons on how to paddle and move through the speeding waters. And yes, there is time to take in the outstanding beauty of the rugged peaks and the bare terrain as you glide past them.

Over the next few days, the expedition stops at designated campsites along the way, allowing you to break journey, relax, and

ZANSKAR: Down the solitary riverIt’s a three-day bus journey from Leh to Ladakh, in the northernmost state of Jammu and Kashmir. The starkly stunning landscape of the Zanskar Valley lies in the high-altitude mountains of Ladakh – they protect the Valley, keeping it beautifully remote and nearly inaccessible.

PRABHAT VeRMA

Prabhat has been instrumental in designing unique active-holiday experiences given his vast outdoor experience in areas of wildlife, adventure and photography. He can be contacted at [email protected]

The Great Escape


ZANSKAR: Down the solitary riverrecoup, so that you can be up at the crack of dawn the next day – to get ready for the river again!

When the rafts enter the breath taking gorge that drains the river system of the Zanskar, it’s both terrifying and thrilling! Because here, there’s no other way to move forward except on the water – you raft or go by boat or in the deep winter, when the Zanskar freezes over, you walk on the ice! There’s not a plant or even a shore in sight, just black, red and mustard rock walls looming high and craggy on either side of the roaring river. Here, in the deep gorge, the Class III rapids get tougher, faster, furious, and more and more tricky to navigate; the rock cliffs get narrower, ensuring that you put all you have into paddling; as if your very life depended on it! Rescue is much tougher here than in other spots.

But it’s in the very heart of the gorge that the

real excitement lies. Rafters will experience large Class IV rapids as the river now smashes its way through extremely long stretches that can only be covered over the next few days with a break or two at campsites.

But finally, after hours and days of tireless paddling and navigating, you approach the very last and most chilling stretch; and you’re marvellously rewarded with a moment you’ll never forget for the rest of your life as the ferocious river bursts out of the canyon and then simply drops. Down you go, raft, paddle and all…till you hit the enormous expanse of water below!

From here, you paddle through Class III

and IV rapids again, crossing the confluence of the Indus,

eventually reaching the shore at Nimu, from where you travel back

to Leh.

What are you waiting for? The magnificent Zanskar River beckons. n

The Great Escape

Rafting on the Zanskar river, Jammu and Kashmir


Green Initiative

The company’s sustainable tourism think-tank researched, tested, and created the concept of ‘Message in a Bottle’. The message is a simple

low-cost option which helps clients be green tourists. To reduce the use of plastics, Le Passage to India Journeys has come up with the unique initiative of providing metal sippers to their clients when they arrive in India; and for the entire duration of their stay. The metal sipper would have both their name and the promoting company’s logo engraved on it. This reusable bottle is then used when they travel around the country. Our research shows that for a ten day long holiday in India, a tourist spends much more than €20 on mineral water. Keeping this factor in mind, our metal sipper will be especially made available to you at €15.

This metal bottle can be refilled with clean water wherever and whenever required. To facilitate this, we would carry a 20 litre water container that carries pure mineral water, ensuring an unlimited supply of clean and pure drinking water for the entire duration of

the holiday. Clients can refill their metal sipper/bottle from this big container and can carry the water bottle to their room, restaurant, etc.

Guests can take these bottles back with them as souvenirs or donate them to NGOs in India who work for the uplift of the economically deprived and the under privileged. The sippers would then be thoroughly disinfected

and gifted to special schools for the use of under privileged children.

World-renowned still water bottling companies such as Coca Cola (Kinley), Aquafina (Pepsi), and Bisleri, produce one, two, 20 and 25 litre water bottles of the same still water. Once the water from one and two litre bottles is consumed, the bottles are simply thrown away, thereby polluting the environment. However, in the case of 20 and 25 litre water bottles, once the water is consumed and the bottles are emptied, they go back to the company and are then disinfected and refilled, encouraging the concept of reuse.

We would use these types of 20/25 litre sealed water bottles, and once water is consumed from each bottle, we would replace it with another sealed bottle. The bottle will not be refilled from a tap or any other source; we would buy only sealed bottles from the company.

Do join our campaign to save the environment. Your contribution will go a long way in making this world a better place by simply reducing the use of plastic! n

Message in a bottleLe Passage to India Journeys acknowledges it’s responsibility to the environment and the world around. We take this role very seriously and as an organisation that put together the first travel foundation – the Le Passage Travel Foundation, we uphold eco-friendly practices in order to minimise the degradation of the environment.


Once, during a visit to Calcutta, I was invited to lunch by a woman whose reputation as a Bengali cook made me accept with delighted anticipation. The meal she served surpassed my expectations. What stood out above all the expensive fish and meat was her mochar ghanto, a fragrant dish consisting of banana blossom, or mocha, combined with tiny cubed potatoes, tinier coconut chips, chickpeas, and spices. It’s a classic of Bengali cuisine which is known for its flavourful yet delicate use of spices and a wide range of ingredients.

- (Author Chitrita Banerji in her food piece ‘Banana Blossom’)

Of the sil nora and the boti

Fish in mustard paste


A Bite of India

Geography has had the biggest role to play in shaping the traditional food of Bengal.Bengal or ‘Sonar Bangla’

(Golden Bengal), was the name given to the combined regions of what are now the Indian state of West Bengal (in eastern India) and the country of Bangladesh (earlier called East Bengal). Bengal is an enormous delta region, rich with alluvial soil, which comes to life every year with the silt deposited by innumerable flooding rivers. Small rivers meet the big ones like the Ganges, the Brahmaputra, and the Padma, and together they eventually make their way into the Bay of Bengal.

The fertile delta land is manna to the farmers! The land and its great rivers offer them the precious and abundant gifts of rice, vegetables, fruits, and the beloved FISH…without which rarely is a Bengali meal complete! The rivers, lakes, and the swampy coastal waters of the mangrove forests of the Sunderbans are flush with freshwater fish, which have come to form the most integral part of a Bengali repast. But in Bengal, fish is

not merely food. The

ubiquitous fish is seen as a symbol of fertility and prosperity; finding its way into practically every aspect of the Bangla culture, from food to rituals to celebrations to even art and the movies…fish is a way of life here!

But more on that later. What you must know is that traditional Bengali cuisine, like many other cuisines in India, has, over the centuries, absorbed the ingredients, flavours, and styles of many influences in the subcontinent – a result of India’s vast trade links with the rest of the world. Assimilating, and modifying itself, the cuisine of Bengal today has come to inherit a legacy of food that is all at once distinct, vibrant, rich, and subtle in flavour. In ancient times (and incredibly till today) the cornerstones of this unique culinary tradition were always rice, vegetables, milk, and fish – all local ingredients. Mangoes, bananas, coconuts, and sugarcane were also abundant. And then yoghurt, and spices such as ginger and black mustard were used for seasoning.

When the Mughals came to India in the 16th century, they brought with them the

Mughlai style of cooking, characterised by ‘dum’ (slow cooking), rich gravies and sauces, and plenty of meats. Muslim rule in Bengal was centred in Dhaka, in what was then East Bengal. The Mughlai food traditions slowly made their way from there to the courts of the Nawabs of Bengal, who popularised the cuisine here.

When Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh was exiled to Bengal in the 19th century, he brought with him the wonderful legacy of Awadhi cuisine – derived from Mughal cuisine – that introduced among other dishes, kebabs, biriyani, and koftas to the state. Tipu Sultan, the exiled ruler of Mysore, also brought his version of Mughlai cuisine when he shifted here.

The European traders brought with them food from the New World - potatoes, chillies, and tomatoes. These were integrated into the native Bengali cuisine to create new dishes. In colonial Bengal, the British famously introduced tea (hence the tea plantations of West Bengal!), chops, puffs, pastries and cutlets – all now such an inseparable part of the Bengali snack tradition! And the Portuguese introduced cottage-cheese (called chhana), which is now the mainstay of most Bengali sweets.

Then there were the immigrant communities like the Baghdadi Jews who set up Kolkata’s famous Jewish bakeries. The Anglo-Indians also popularised baking and the celebration of Christmas, two significant traditions of the British legacy in India. Bengal had its first taste of Chinese

KIRAN JOTI

After acquiring her Masters in French Literature and spending a year at the Sorbonne University, Kiran’s journey from a multi-lingual tour guide to Executive Director at Indian Routes is a story of dedication and difference. An ardent traveller herself, Kiran has travelled extensively within India and the surrounding regions. She is the Joint Managing Director and heads the Central European markets.She can be contacted at [email protected]


A Bite of India

food when Chinese migrants came here in the late 18th century. The Marwaris from western India, brought with them their confectionary skills, much to the delight of the sweet-toothed Bengalis! Both the Chinese and the Marwari communities also popularised the concept of street food, again so inherent to the Bengali food culture.

All these multicultural culinary traditions were soon woven into a distinct food heritage in Bengal. Having said that, traditional Bengali cooking has always been mostly confined to the home. Families have recipes passed down from generation to generation. Today’s cosmopolitan Bengalis may love the idea of experimenting with and incorporating all kinds and styles of food, but what brings them truly home is traditional Bengali fare.

One of the most remarkable features of Bengali cuisine is that food is typically served over traditional courses, during meal times.

“From shukto to payesh”, was Rabindranath Tagore’s phrase for a complete Bengali meal. This basically means that one must begin with bitters and end with sweets. Hence, the shukto (a bitter palate cleanser, made up of neem or other bitter leaves, bitter gourd, eggplant, potatoes, radish, and green bananas, spices like turmeric, and ginger, mustard, and celery seed pastes) and the payesh (a sweet milk and rice pudding).

A typical Bengali meal goes not only from bitter to sweet but also from delicate, subtle flavours to stronger ones, allowing you to go through an entire range of tastes. Eating in Bengal is akin to the Japanese ritual of making, pouring, and drinking tea – gradual, savouring each mouthful to experience its full flavour! When food is served, a little bit of rice is eaten with each dish separately. The meal begins with a dollop of steaming rice served with ghee, salt, wedges of fragrant green lime, and green chillies. Vegetables, mainly the bitter ones, come first; followed by dal (lentils), perhaps accompanied by either boiled vegetables, or fries or fritters of fish and vegetables. Next up is any vegetable dish like dalna or ghanto or chachchari, followed by a lightly spiced fish jhol (gravy) and then other spicier fish dishes. Mangsho (meat-mutton or lamb or chicken) always follows fish. Followed by delightfully tart sweet-sour chutneys that are also palate cleansers, preparing you for dessert. Chutney is served with paapad (poppadoms). Dessert to finish could be mishti-doi (sweet curds) or payesh or dry sweets accompanied by fruits like mango. And what better way to digest such a sumptuous meal than with paan (betel leaves)!

Pure golden mustard oil is the most important medium of cooking since it lends a pungent flavour to many of the traditional dishes. Fish cooked in mustard oil is considered exquisite!

But perhaps what secretly and quietly wins it for Bangla cooking is the addition of the fragrant paanch phoron (five-spice), a combination of five different whole spices (cumin, fennel, fenugreek, nigella, and black mustard), fried and added at the start or finish of cooking as a wonderful way to flavour each dish and lift it!

Then of course, Bengalis love their fish! And prepare it in so many

Begun Bhaja or egg plant fry

Roasted dumplings of coconut and poppy seeds


ways – steamed or braised, or stewed with greens or other vegetables; and with sauces that are mustard based or thickened with the paste of poppy seeds (postho). Fish is cooked almost on a daily basis. And is a part of virtually every celebration, ritual or festivity. The most popular ones are salmon, hilsa, bhetki, magur, carp, rui, and prawns.

So where does the quintessential Bengali meal begin? At the markets of course! You can be sure that every self-respecting Bengali home will stock up on both vegetables and fish no matter what. Which is why early mornings are especially reserved for trips to the anaj bazaar (vegetable market, also for fruit) and the maachher bazaar (fish market). Both markets are usually open air ones and simply bursting at the seams!

The kitchen (ranna bari) of a traditional Bengali home is witness to plenty of activity, labour, attention to detail, and of course some amount of culinary talent and ingenuity! Here are some cooking styles you may see if you happen to dine at a Bengali home:

Ambal: A tangy dish made either with vegetables or with fish. Tamarind pulp contributes to its tartness.

Bhaja: A fry, either by itself or in batter.

Bhapa: Fish or vegetables steamed with oil and spices. A traditional and classic steaming technique is to wrap the fish in banana leaf – this lends it a delightfully smoky flavour.

Bhate: Any vegetable, such as potatoes, beans, pumpkins, or even dal, first boiled whole, and then mashed and seasoned with mustard oil or ghee, and spices.

Bhuna: Derived from Urdu, the term means frying for a long time with ground and whole spices over high heat. A technique usually used for meat.

Chachchari: Mostly a mixed vegetable dish with one or more varieties of vegetables cut into longish strips, sometimes with the stalks of leafy greens added, all lightly seasoned with spices like mustard or poppy seeds and flavoured with a phoron. In other cases, the skin and bones of large fish like bhetki or chitol can be made into a chachchari called kanta-chachchari, meaning fish-bone.

Chhanchra: A combination dish made with different vegetables, portions of fish head, and fish oil.

Chhenchki: Tiny pieces of one or more vegetable, sometimes even the peels of potatoes, bottle gourd, and pumpkin; usually flavoured with panch-phoron or whole mustard seeds or black cumin seeds. Chopped onion and garlic is also used, but hardly any ground spices.

Dalna: Mixed vegetables or eggs, cooked in a medium thick gravy seasoned with ground spices, and a dash of ghee.

Dam: This is definitely the legacy of the Mughals! Vegetables,

A Bite of India

Maachher jhol: Fish in mustard gravyAloo Postho: Fried potato with poppy seeds


especially potatoes, or meat, cooked over a covered pot slowly over low heat, and allowed to simmer.

Ghanto: Different yet complementary vegetables (cabbage, green peas, potatoes, banana blossom, coconut, chickpeas) are chopped or finely grated and cooked with both a phoron and ground spices. Dried pellets of dal (boris) are often added to the ghanto. Ghee is commonly added at the end. A non-vegetarian ghanto is made with fish or fish heads added to vegetables. The famous murighanto is made with fish heads cooked in a fine variety of rice. Some ghantos are very dry while others are thick and juicy.

Jhaal: Any hot dish. Spicy hot that is! Made with fish or shrimp or crab, first lightly fried and then cooked in a light sauce of ground red chilli or ground mustard and a flavouring of panch-phoron or black cumin seeds. It is often eaten with a bit of lentils poured over rice.

Jhol: A light yet flavourful fish or vegetable

stew seasoned with ground spices like ginger, cumin, coriander, chilli, and turmeric with pieces of fish and longish slices of vegetables. Whole green chillies and green coriander leaves are added in the end as seasoning.

Kalia: A rich preparation of fish, meat or vegetables that uses much oil and ghee, with a sauce usually made from ground ginger and onion paste, and garom mashla (roasted and ground whole spices).

Koftas (or Boras): Ground meat or vegetable croquettes bound together by spices and/or eggs served alone or in savoury gravy.

Korma: Again of Urdu origin, meaning meat or chicken cooked in a mild yoghurt based sauce with ghee instead of oil. A Mughal favourite!

Kasundi: A sharp paste of mustard and raw mango pulp, used as a dipping sauce.

Pora: Literally, burnt. Vegetables are

wrapped in leaves and roasted over a wood or charcoal fire. Some, like eggplant, are roasted directly over the flames. The smoked vegetable is then mixed with oil and spices, and served.

Tarkari: This ubiquitous description is used in Bengal practically every day. It simply means cooked vegetables, or even fish and vegetables cooked together.

Saag: All leafy greens like spinach, fenugreek, and mustard greens. Shak is usually cooked till just wilted, with a dash of oil and nigella seeds to temper.

Bengali food is all about the perfect blend of sweet and spicy flavours, each of these distinctive and vibrant. The simplest of meals are elevated to extraordinary culinary levels through the subtle harmony and integration of both its remarkably underplayed ingredients AND the unusual seasoning, making for an exquisite food experience.

And if you’re puzzling over the title, it’s probably time to explain! The sil nora is the two-piece grinding stone (for spices). And the bladed boti is the remarkable cutting tool (for vegetables and fish). Both have been in use for hundreds of years. Both are indispensable and inseparable even today. Both are the heroes of the Bengali kitchen – the absolute pride and joy of the chef! Fancy kitchen tools may come and go, but some things Bengali will never go out of fashion. n

Kasundi: Paste of mustard and raw mango pulp

Mishti Doi Sandesh

A Bite of India

Fish balls made from Chital, local fish

Maachher Bazaar


Guest Column

Yes, India is more modern today, young people dress in jeans, people are using the Internet and most people handle a cell phone and still;

India remains the same.

I arrived in Mumbai by ship in 1955 for my first visit. What an experience to arrive in the busy harbour of Bombay, so different from my home country in Scandinavia.

In those days information about far away countries was rare, so the experience struck me right at my heart. I stayed with a young Indian couple who introduced me to the local customs and also brought me to the countryside, to the villages of India.

I became so fascinated with the country that over the next many years I kept coming back. Finally I decided to bring tourists to India – I felt they just had to experience it!! For more than 30 years I organised group tours and many times travelled with the groups as tour guide of our family business Samuel Travel.

It is such a rewarding feeling to show India

to people who have not visited the country before. At the beginning of the journey you feel a slight apprehension; what is this untidy, messy, crowded and decidedly different place? And then – by the end of the tour, a feeling of admiration and awe!

I have spent my whole adult life spreading the word about India, as a tour operator, as a teacher and as an author of several books on various topics; history, social development and politics. My main contribution, I feel, has been a field study of life in Indian villages. Ever since 1955 I have closely followed up on the development of rural life in one particular village in Junagadh District, Gujarat, and subsequently made comparisons with the development in several villages all over India. The tendency that can be seen from this survey is clear – India is developing and lives are improving for millions of people.

People often ask me “Which part of India do you like the most?” or “Which place in India do you prefer?” My answer is: it is the people, more than anything, who will make you come back again and again! To make

a real friend is never easier than in India. Just immerse yourself in the Indian crowd and you will feel surrounded by people who care for you. The Indian tradition to take good care of a guest is felt everywhere, and especially by a foreign tourist who can rest assured that all care will be taken to make them comfortable. The hospitality business in India is excellent, it is part of tradition!

I am proud to have been part of the travel industry that has opened up the doors to India and given the opportunity to so many new people to experience something unique!

Samuel Strandberg (b. 1929) is a teacher by profession, a tour operator with his own company Samuel Travel, and the author of more than six books on India. In 2004 he was awarded an honorary doctorate by the Stockholm University for his field studies on villages in India. Samuel was also the Deputy Mayor of Stockholm for 9 years, a position he came to hold following more than 30 years of his association with politics in Stockholm. n

60 years – that’s my lasting love story with India! Amazing – just think so many

changes have happened in this time, and still my India remains the same! The traditions, the

festivals, the diversity.

India, so different,

so far, and yet so easy to feel at home!

Samuel with his wife Margareta Strandberg


The resort takes its inspiration from the Andaman Islands – from its unique juxtaposition of primary rainforests and white sand beaches,

and from its unparalleled biodiversity. Guests experience the true Andamans from within the resort: the cottages and villas are set amidst 25 acres of rainforest lying behind what Time Magazine dubbed ‘The Best Beach in Asia’.

The resort campus looks and feels like a

rainforest retreat, but the surreal sound of waves punctuating birdsong makes you realise that you are somewhere truly magical. The resort has deliberately kept its surroundings as close to its natural state as possible. No beach umbrellas, deck chairs or hawkers here to detract from the dramatic sweep of soft white sand beach, no jet skis ply offshore to disturb the tranquility of the crystal clear lagoon waters; and there is no visible beachfront development by the resort, leaving undisturbed the backdrop

Barefoot at Havelock resort is keenly aware that their guests’ choice of this destination is driven by a perception of the Andamans Islands as one of the last frontiers of outstanding pristine natural beauty. Barefoot at Havelock seeks to deliver this conception of the Andamans within the environs of the resort.

Hotel Feature

Barefoot at HavelockInspired by the Andamans

Fan Cooled Nicobari Cottages


Hotel Feature

of 200 foot tall buttressed Mahua trees. This unblemished confluence of ocean, sand, and rainforest completes a Robinson Crusoe effect. The resort has followed a simple mantra: it has been lucky enough to be blessed with one of the best locations on the planet and it would be silly to tinker with it.

Barefoot’s commitment to deliver a composite Andaman experience has ensured they have been rated in The Guardian as amongst the five best beach eco-resorts in the world and remain the No. 1 resort in the Andaman Islands on Tripadvisor.

Accommodation:

Barefoot at Havelock resort consists of

31 elegantly designed cottages, villas, and tented cottages complete with spacious interiors, modern amenities, and ensuite bathrooms, constructed using environmentally sensitive indigenous materials, all blending seamlessly with their surroundings.

OMA SPAIn Sanskrit, Oma means ‘life giver’. Oma Spa is based on holistic and natural, back to earth wellness and beautification. Step into a world of pure bliss and energy with unique spa therapies combining western and eastern holistic techniques. Here you can relax on an altogether deeper dimension, as the therapists’ dexterous fingers massage away the tension, cleanse the body and rejuvenate the spirit.

Activities with Barefoot at Havelock:

Although inspired by and seeking to deliver the true feeling of the Andamans within the resort premises, Barefoot understands that much that is good about the Great Andamans also lies beyond the resort campus. The in-house activities centre ensures you have access to all that is magical about the Andamans: from swimming elephants to scuba diving and snorkeling over pristine reefs, kayaking in the mangroves, trekking in the rainforest or simply relaxing on the beach: your holiday with Barefoot immerses you in the best of the Andamans.

SNORKeLING AND SCUBA DIVINGPristine reefs and enchanting fish life have ensured that the Andamans are now considered as a snorkeling and scuba diving hot spot and enthusiasts from all around the world make their way to these islands. Barefoot Scuba, a PADI five-star IDC Center, can help you visit the holy grail of diving in the Andamans: the waters around Barren Island, an active volcano. But Scuba diving is not a sport restricted to the experienced.

Andaman Villa

DeePAK GOVIND

Deepak was born and raised in the Andaman Islands. He has served as the founder president of the Andaman Tourism Guild and has more than 20 years of experience in serving international guests on customised itineraries.He can be contacted at [email protected]


Hotel Feature

Irrespective of whether you can swim or not, as long as you are at least 8 years old, you too can try your hand at scuba diving and get addicted for life!

KAYAKINGHavelock Island has an extensive network of mangrove creeks and the best way to explore this is on kayak. Kayaking tours have been carefully designed to be paced according to the ability of the kayakers and plenty of breaks ensure you won’t wake up with sore arms the next day.

TReKKINGThe team delights in showing you the various eco-systems of the Andamans from reef to rainforest, and the treks are designed to ensure you can experience all that nature has to offer. You can choose between a walk and wade trek in the Mangroves, a trek through the intertidal zone at a deserted beach, a hike through the dense tropical rainforest or even combine a trek with a mangrove walk culminating with snorkeling off a reef.

The ultimate wildlife package: Above & Below with Barefoot and The Serai

Create an experience that will be etched in your memory for a very long time to come, by combining your Andaman trip with a wildlife safari. Embark on a ten day adventure where you go tiger spotting at Barefoot’s associate properties The Serai Kabini and The Serai Bandipur before you fly from Bangalore and dive into the deep blue waters of the Andamans to explore its exotic marine life. This is the only package in India which gives the traveller an unparalleled wildlife experience both Above & Below; on land and under water. n

KayakingSnorkeling and elephant bathing at Havelock Island

Pano Andaman villa interior


Experiences

Heritage Walks of

INDIA

The Charminar Walk, Hyderabad

Since 1591 the majestic Charminar mosque has been the most iconic monument of Hyderabad and is synonymous with the rich history

and heritage of Hyderabad. The monument is the grand centrepiece of the old city and sits as the backdrop to the city’s wonderful culture, and its fantastic food and crafts.

Walk: As you weave your way through the busy, colourful streets of the old city, you’re transported back to the bygone era of the Nizams. Take fabulous photographs, eat amazing food, and see the lovely traditional handicrafts (lac bangles, zardosi embroidery work) — experience Hyderabad’s heritage and its street life.Walk by the well-known monuments and landmarks around the Charminar: begin with the Charminar, then move on to see the Mecca Masjid, Lad Bazaar, Shahi Jilu Khana, Mehboob Chowk Clocktower, Homeopathy hospital, Metal market, Chowk mosque, Abdarkhana, Asman Jah deodi, Khurshid Jah deodi, Iqbal-ud-daulah deodi, and then finally the Chowmahalla Palace where you can stop to see the Museum.

The Howrah Walk, Kolkata

Howrah station and Howrah Bridge are iconic landmarks of Kolkata and symbolic of

the spirit of the city — modern yet old world, always on the move, yet laidback and utterly charming.Experience the wonder of this lovely city the way thousands of its people do — on foot!

Walk: Start the walk at Akashbani Bhawan (the All India Radio building), then walk through the city’s heritage district, seeing the Town Hall, High Court, State Assembly and the Eden Gardens cricket stadium, to reach the banks of the river at Babu Ghat. Take one of the local ferries to Howrah, and enjoy views of both Kolkata and Howrah on either side. Get off and walk to the Howrah station, one of the largest stations in India, and join the crowds as they go in. From here, walk along the Howrah Bridge back to Kolkata. At the bottom of the bridge, is the famous wholesale Flower Market. Finish the day with a walk through this riot of colours and fragrances.


Experiences

The Manek Chowk Walk, Ahmedabad

Manek Chowk is Ahmedabad’s biggest, busiest, most colourful and wonderfully chaotic market — not to be missed! It has lovely

jewellery, fantastic food items, gorgeous textiles, and of course plenty of fruits and vegetables.

Walk: Walk through this splendid market and experience it all from morning to evening. A must is the Rani no Hajiro which is known as the “ladies market” that sells all kinds of things, from costume jewellery to wedding trousseaus to knick-knacks.This is a 2-hour walk through the Secretariat area to see the grand buildings and beautiful gardens that are synonymous with Bangalore. We will also visit the State Museum and the Venkatappa Gallery.

The Vidhan Soudha Walk, Bengaluru

Bengaluru (Bangalore) was founded in the 1500s by Kempe Gowda, and is today the capital of Karnataka. It is famous

for its pleasant climate, many gardens and old, colonial style buildings that dot the cityscape.

Walk: Start at the General Post Office (GPO) building, and then move on to see the Raj Bhavan (the Governor’s Residence), the Vidhana Soudha (the State Legislature) and Attara Kacheri (the High Court). Discover the history of these buildings and the events associated with them. Next, stroll through the lovely

Cubbon Park, seeing some of its interesting landmarks as you walk. Finish with a visit to the State Museum and the Venkatappa Art Gallery next to it.You can finally come to a rest with a bite to eat at one of the many cafes nearby.

The Fort Kochi Walk, Kochi

In ancient times, Kochi (Cochin) was the hub of the spice trade in the Indian Ocean, and for many centuries, large ships carrying traders and travellers –

the Greeks, Romans, Jews, Arabs, and the Chinese – sailed to this beautiful port city to do business. From the 15th century onwards, Kochi was colonised first by the Portuguese, then the Dutch, and eventually by the British — till 1947, when India got her Independence. The wonderful legacy of Kochi’s diverse, unique and rich history, culture and heritage can be seen in the influences in Fort Kochi. Exploring the old quarter of Fort Kochi on foot is the best way to experience it.

Walk: The St Francis Church (India’s oldest European Church) built by the Portuguese, Fort Immanuel (the Portuguese stronghold), the Dutch Cemetery, the beautiful Mattanchery Palace (Dutch Palace), the magnificently decorated 16th century Jewish Synagogue in Mattanchery, Vasco House, where Vasco da Gama is believed to have lived, the Santa Cruz Basilica cathedral, and the Union Club Building.Then, walk through the fascinating spice laden lanes of Jew Town, home to Kochi’s Jewish community; see the lovely old world homes along Bishop’s House road. Next, stroll along the seaside promenade (sunset is best!) and watch the giant Chinese Fishing Nets that dot the stretch of the coast and are distinctly unique to Kochi.You can even stop at some of the curio and handicraft shops and art galleries in Fort Kochi. Finish your walk with a treat at one of the little cafes.

RNI No. DELENG/2015/65820

vol 2, issue i, apr-jun 2016 - le passage to india new delhi- 110016 india and printed on its behalf...

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