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Supermarine Spitfire IXBuilding • Finishing • Flying

Unique kits designed for real model makers

Thank you for choosing this top quality Warbird

Replicas Spitfire IX kit, which we know will

bring you many hours of flying pleasure as well

as an enjoyable building experience.

From the earliest Warbird kits over two decades ago,

through to the present, all of our kits have earnt a

solid reputation for

straightforward

construction and

exceptional flying

qualities. Our

current range

covers the models

our customers have

asked us for, with the latest kits fast establishing

themselves as winners.

Our unique total design philosophy produces a near

scale model whilst still suitable for everyday use.

As testimony to our

achievement, all

press reviews have

confirmed that our

models would

make excellent first

low wing trainers.

However, we consider the greatest compliment

comes from fellow modellers, who after buying one

Warbird kit tend to keep coming back for more!

Total design

Total design means that we don’t just sell you a kit

and then leave you to find all the difficult

accessories. Each kit includes a range of optional

[but strongly recommended] extras including decals,

retract packs complete with comprehensive

instructions, wheels & wheel wells and pilot &

cockpit sets. The latest addition to our

accessory range is a custom

made, in-cowl exhaust system

suitable for most 52 size 4-stroke

motors. Exclusive to Warbirds

these exhaust systems can

further enhance the scale

appearance of your finished

model.

Create something

individual

Feedback we have received

over the years has shown us our

customers are capable of going

much closer to scale and crave

more detail, so although all major

components are contained within the

kit, the covered airframe is very much a

blank canvas, ready to accept your own ideas on

painting, weathering and scale detailing.

The Osprey series of publications are an excellent

resource for detailing, covering a wide range of

WWII marques. Mk IX Spitfire ISBN 1-84176-266-0

Warbird Replicas Online

Build tips and advice, covering & painting, video

downloads, model gallery, online shop and much

more, are all available at the Warbird replicas

website - www.warbirdreplicas.co.uk

What next?

Do a little research, familiarise yourself with all

stages of construction, dry fit components as you

progress and you will be well on your way to

creating a model that stands out from the

usual crowd!

The legendary Supermarine Spitfire, designed by

R.J.Mitchell was a direct descendant from the

Schneider Trophy winning sea planes from the

same factory. With such a distinguished pedigree

nothing less than a true thoroughbred could result.

The design was so advanced that it could be

developed way beyond that of its contemporaries,

the Hurricane and ME109, and was competitive

right through to the end of the war. The Spitfire

won the

hearts of all who flew her, and the

respect of those who fought against her in combat.

Our model faithfully reproduces the look of a Mk

IX Spitfire. The flight characteristics are delightful,

it has no real vices, and is a real lady right down

to the stall, which incidentally is a non-event. Like

the full size, the model has been designed to

operate from relatively short grass runways, giving

everyone the opportunity to become a Spitfire Ace.

Our British designed and manufactured model was

destined from the outset to be a winner, as was the

original. Whether you choose IC or electric power,

built as intended, you will soon be won over by its

impeccable manners and hopefully converting

other ‘box’ flyers to models that look like the

aircraft that really made them aviation

enthusiasts in the first place.

The model shown here is powered by an SC52 4-stroke, a flying weight of only 6lb was achieved

Start by slotting all of the ribs onto the lower spar. Don’t forget to includethe aileron servo plate and the UC plate (but don’t glue that till later).Gently add the top spar and sqeeze it flush with the lower spar to clamp theribs in place. Don’t do any gluing yet, just tape things in place if needed.

Add the rear wing spars and aileron facings. You will need to support theouter ribs when you push the aileron facings home. The wing tip core canbe glued in position.

Don’t forget to add the little sub-rib which forms the in-board end of theaileron. I have pinned the one from the other side next to it to show youwhat it looks like. The soft wood aileron facings need to be trimmed down tobe flush with the ribs. It is easy to damage the ribs, so slice the worst offwith a sharp knife1

With the structure on a flat surface, add some cyano to the joints. Makesure the room is well ventilated as the fumes can be toxic. Don’t glue in thewing joiners or UC plate but make sure that they all fit nicely.

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HINTS & TIPS

Aliphatic or PVA glue has been used

throughout the construction unless

indicated otherwise.

1 Wrapping some sand paper around aconvex shape (like a bottle) will help to notcatch the ribs as you sand.

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Now its time to add the top skin. Start by coating the tops of the ribs andspars with wood glue (PVA). Don’t put more than a very thin coat toward therear end of the ribs, just in case you have to adjust the trailing edge later.The wing skin has a little spanwise slit near the leading edge to help itconform to shape. This stage will have to be left to dry for a few hours1.

Make up the 3 wing jig cradles, then turn the wing upside down and checkthat the upper skin is securely attached. The wing must sit nicely in thecradles as this ensures the correct washout2. Build the other wing up to thislevel, so that you can do a trial wing join without glue before adding thebottom skins. Add the two front wing joiners with PVA, pressing them hardinto the slots so that the undercarriage plate can get under the front“hooks”

Note the little ply wood plate glued in the corner of the aileron (flush to thelower rib surface) to provide a hard fixing for the aileron horn. Remember totack the trailing edge area only lightly with cyano. Add weights and tapedown the wing skin where required. If you find that when the wings havedried and joined together the trailing edges do not seem to be symmetrical,just run a knife between the wing skins at the trailing edge and whilst heldtogether in a corrected position, add cyano.

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HINTS & TIPS

1 You then need a collection of weights topress the skin down. I used plastic cupswhich I filled with water!

2 It is a good idea to put some thread orstring in where your aileron cable will go.

Wing - Supermarine Spitfire IXWing - Supermarine Spitfire IX

Add the lower soft balsa part of the wing tip, which will be sanded to blendin with the wing skin a little later.

Glue in place the tip skin supporting rib. If the skin doesn't end that neatly,don’t panic! Its only wood and a little scrap added will soon fill the gap.

To complete the tip, add the top skin which is made up of two parts that youshould first join with cyano. When you turn it over you can see the theoverhang of top skin needs to be sanded off.

With a junior hack saw blade or razor saw carefully saw through the threeribs that retain the aileron. Then sand both faces flat in preparation forhinging the control surfaces.

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You will need three mylar hinges for each aileron. The hinge line will be 1/8”(3mm) from the top of the skin. Draw a line and then cut three 20mm longslots with a sharp knife to accommodate the hinges. Replicate the slots ontothe wing to match and dry fit the hinges.

You can now join the wings together. Pic 13 shows the bottom without skinsjust to what is happening. You can open up a hole right at the front wherethe wing dowel fits. The dihedral braces provide the strength, not the rootribs. So if your actual wing joint isn't that tight, it wont make any difference,just fill in with scrap wood. The soft balsa block near the trailing edge is tostop the wing bolts crushing the wing skin.

It is very important to study the line of the trailing edge when viewed frombehind to check both wings look the same. If they don’t, simply open up thetrailing edge with a knife as described earlier and adjust. The two leadingedge strips (two each wing) have been added and sanded to shape. Theelectric screwjack retracts have also been fitted with just four screws.

We fitted 12.5g servos onto the lite ply plates simply by roughing them upand hot gluing in position.

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HINTS & TIPS

1 Nipping off the corners of the mylar stops

the hinges snagging upon insertion

Wing - Supermarine Spitfire IXWing - Supermarine Spitfire IX

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Four formers support the rear deck sheeting and the holes in the centralcrutch are already cut ready to accept the tab at the bottom of each former. When you glue them in place use a set square1 to ensure that they are atright angles to the central crutch.

The front deck has a similar arrangement but this time a square spine runsbetween the formers to support the balsa sheeting. The formers are in pairs.Note that they appear to be too wide but that is because the fuselage sidecheeks have not yet been added.

Glue the bottom of the cockpit side and rear decking sheet in place. Notethe cockpit side will overhang the fuselage side at this stage. Once glued atthe base, dampen the sheet on the outside to help it form a curve. Note therear spine is higher at the front to allow you to sand in a slight curve to alignwith the last section of the canopy.

Identify the front deck sheeting and dampen the outside with a cloth.After about two minutes it will be easy to curve the sheet to shape. Peg inposition and allow to dry before repeating the process for the other side.

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Fuselage - Supermarine Spitfire IX

HINTS & TIPS

1 Or you can use a business card if you

don’t have a set square

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For the electric version assemble the motor and battery mount by comparingwith the side view shown on the plan, then slide in to place. When gluing in F1it is worth sanding of any black soot from the laser cut edges to allow the glueto get a good grip.

Temporarily mount the motor of your choice with two small self tappingscrews as you may need to move it slightly if it does not align with the centreof your cowl. Note that the slot shown behind the mount may be needed toaccommodate the extended motor shaft on certain types of motor.

Now its time to create the cowling. Start by trimming the cowl to length andremoving the crinkled flanges to match the drawing. Try to remove the leastpossible amount of plastic as you can always take a little more but cant reallyadd it back on.

Match the bottom part of the cowl to the top and tape them together so thatyou can make a mark on both sides that duplicate the plan. The plastic can becut with tin snips or even heavy duty scissors. A razor saw also works reallywell and gives you plenty of time.

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Fuselage - Supermarine Spitfire IX

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It is important that the vertical edge is at right angles to the aircraft centre lineso use a square to mark the line you want to cut.

Using strips of 10mm wide scrap plastic sheet glue a flange behind the edge ofthe lower cowl part1. The nose reinforcement ring can also be glued to thelower cowl. You need to trim the two cowl parts to make sure that the upperand lower cowl parts form a uniform ring around the reinforcing circle.

Join the top cowl to the bottom.You can also trim and fit the exhaust stacks inthe correct position as shown on the plan. Once the cowl is trimmed to fit, youcan butt the balsa side cheeks up against them and glue them in place. Thewing seat area removed as shown to match the fuselage sides. The rear mostend of the cheeks need to be sanded to blend into the fuselage.

Turn the fuselage upside down and fit the wing bolt plate then add the littletriangular supports on top to stop it from pulling out. Add the triangular balsafillets to the lowest edge of the fuselage sides. These will eventually formround corners when you sand down the outside edges. Join the two soft balsapieces that form the rear fuselage base but don’t glue them on till you haveinstalled the nylon pushrods. Trial fit the wing and do the bolts up finger tight.

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HINTS & TIPS

1 The best glue for this plastic is solvent

weld available for hardware shops. Plastic

modellers glue also works well.

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Slacken off the bolts until you can just slide the plywood wing fairing basebetween the fuselage and wing. The ply base must be positioned to align withthe inside edge of the fuselage side doubler. Run some glue between thefuselage and the top of the plywood. Cut little slots from the bottom upthrough the 1/2” triangular stock as shown on the plan to help it bend roundthe curve. Then glue in position. Add the two triangular concave formers atthe rear of the fairing

Add the balsa top skin. A good tip here is to dampen the middle (not wherethe glue goes) of the balsa sheet on the inside. This will make the balsa bendnaturally1. I also cut a little step in the 1/2” triangular to allow the sheet to siton it but still be flush (you can just see this on the previous picture). The topskin will overlap but can be trimmed off the next day when dry.

Add the rear upper wing skin and finally add the rear wing fillet plywood baseunderneath. If you have a few gaps, don’t worry, simply add a few scraps ofbalsa to fill in where required. Remember the wood will be covered. When theentire wing fairing is complete and dry remove the fuselage and sand thefairings horizontally from below until they barely overlap the ply base plates .

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HINTS & TIPS

1 Use the plastic film from the kit to stop the

glue getting on the wing

Fuselage - Supermarine Spitfire IXFuselage - Supermarine Spitfire IX

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Fit the tail plane support blocks and the small triangular blocks the form thebottom of the rear fuselage (not shown here). Note that they will sit eitherside of the fin base when the vertical fin is slid into position. Then create alittle frame as shown from 1/4” scrap balsa. This duplicates the space thatwill be occupied by the fin and tail plane.

Glue the tapered soft balsa fin blocks in place and when dry sand them intoa streamlined wedge shape which will form a continuous shape from the reardeck. When you feel you have created a continuous fillet to give a smoothingeffect around the fin, cut them away from the temporary frame. Remove the1/4 scrap frame and clean of any lumps of glue so that the tail mount is flatand ready for the tail surfaces.

The tail parts are all pre cut from 1/4’’ balsa sheet and with a quick glance atthe plan should be self explanatory. It is a good idea to dry fit the elevatorjoiner while the two elevator parts are lying on a flat surface. That way theywill not be twisted relative to each other.

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Drill four small holes (about 1/16”) in all four corners of the cowl where thebattery hatch will be, this will stop the cowl splitting at stress points.I removed the hatch with a razor saw, but you can also use a junior hacksawblade or a dremel disc. It is worth taking your time here to get a neat joint.Using the 10mm wide plastic strip provided glue two side flanges to thehatch and one at the front.

You can now do a dry fit with all of the tail surfaces with the wing bolted onproperly check the model from behind to see if the tail is correctly alignedwith the wing. If it is not quite correct you can sand a little of the tail mounttop away to tilt the tail plane one way or the other. Once everything lookssymmetrical, remove the tail surfaces and sand all of the edges round. Youmay wish to cover the model before finally gluing them in position. It is alsoeasier to fit the control runs now while the tail is off.

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HINTS & TIPS

1 Keeping these controls as rigid and slopfree as possible will produce more positive

flight response

Final assembly - Supermarine Spitfire IXFinal assembly - Supermarine Spitfire IX

3433

For a tough, cost effective covering that paints beautifully and is reasonably simpleto do, we suggest the brown paper method, cheap and thin paper is best, about theconsistency of christmas wrapping.

Cut each panel oversize, and coat the matt side with PVA glue1. Let the paper‘grow’ for about 30 seconds and then lay it on the surface to be covered,smoothing with your hands. Using a medium hot iron, iron from the centre outtowards the edges. As PVA is heat reactive, this step of the process is a lot like filmcovering. You will find it will go round quite convex shapes. Continue until all thesurfaces are covered.

Allow 12 hours to dry then give it a coat of diluted non-shrinking dope [dilute with30% cellulose thinners] followed by a light sanding with flour grade wet and dry.

You will need acrylic aerosols of white primer, grey primer, and matt black2. Thesetypes of paint go on very dry and are reasonably durable in their own right3

The white primer is for all of the underside and the invasion stripe areas [see plan]on the top surface. When dry, mask off the invasion stripe areas4 and then greyprimer the remainder of the upper surfaces.

HINTS & TIPS

1 Dilute the PVA glue by about 10-15% with

water

2 Halfords [the car store] acrylic primers

are excellent for this purpose

3 Paint adds unwanted weight - always use

the minimum amount possible

4 The invasion stripes are approx 10” wide

on each wing and fuselage

The grey primer covers really well and should be used as the primer for the areasthat will ultimately be green or grey.

We used Humbrol enamels for the remaining colours. The Green is “Dark Green”No 116, the two greys being “Ocean Grey” No 106 and “Medium Sea Grey” No 165underneath.

Although the cans are very small1, the colour is very accurate, and it does meanthat should you need to touch up your plane in the future, colours will match. Wewould expect to use two tins of each colour if airbrushing.

Now pull the masking off of the invasion stripe area and using two inch maskingtape spray on the black stripes with the remaining aerosol.

Once the main colours are dry, lightly rub off any dust with a sheet of plain paper,and add the decals2. You can add panel lines with an indelible felt tip pen and theimpression of wear with a dry brush of silver. Pastel chalks are very effective forshading and have the advantage of being removable should you make a mistake.

Finally, fuel proof the whole plane3.

HINTS & TIPS

1 Thinning the enamel using cellulose

thinners will cover more area with less

weight. Consistency of creamy milk is ideal if

airbrushing

2 You will find that one drip of liquid soap in

a saucer will provide a good lubricant to the

surface while you position each decal

3 Although a satin finish is what we want,

gloss fuel proofer is the most resistant, which

we use in very vulnerable areas. Be warned,

some dedicated fuel proofers can curl up the

edges of decals

Covering & paintingCovering & painting

The prototype has been flying for some time now, and so as long as your model hasbeen constructed sensibly there is no reason to feel apprehensive at this stage.From our experience most incidents come from poor preparation.

You might need some ballast to get the balance point that far forward. The weight iseasiest to place in the tank bay, but make sure it’s going to stay there. Do notattempt to fly your Spitfire with a rearward C of G, it will be tolerant to a point, butwhy tempt fate?

We would really recommend making the test flights without the cowl, unless youhave a well run in motor and have made a number of consistent static runs.Remember to add some temporary weight to compensate for the missing cowl. Theadvantage is that you can monitor the motor much easier, and there is no danger ofoverheating while you trim out the airframe.

If a model gets in trouble on take off it will always flick left because of prop torque.We recommend that you aim your take off just right of the eye of the wind and onthe test flight, wind in 1/8" of right trim.

Because the Spitfire has such powerful elevators, they must be treated with a littlerespect. The model is very friendly but bullying it will not be rewarded.

Hold in full up elevator to keep the tail down. Then as she starts rolling ease off theup and allow her to gather speed. Once she is bowling along with her tail up, easein a little up and allow her to climb out at a shallow angle. Speed is your safetymargin during the take off so let her pick up as much as possible before‘unsticking’.

Ignore all comments from the club experts, telling you that Spitfires are tricky to fly.This model is delightful, and once trimmed, will fly very slowly, so there is no needto come in like an express train. Be gentle with her and she will pretty well flyherself.

As a final note. If you have managed to add too much filler/glue/paint and yourown additional strength (ie surplus weight). Don’t panic. Sure, it won’t fly quite asnice as it should have, if you had built it as we have designed it. But it does have avery sophisticated high lift wing which will tolerate a fair amount of extra weight.

Flying the Warbirds Spitfire IXFlying the Warbirds Spitfire IX

PRE FLIGHT CHECKLIST

Check a few of the potentialproblem areas, to minimise thechance of an incident.

• Batteries checked before flightand range check complete?

• Flats filed on the top and bottom

of the legs to prevent twisting?

• Fuel tube keepers on the

clevises?

• Battery to receiver connecter

taped or better - lock wired?

• Engine running slightly rich but

consistent?

• Wheels retract without snagging?

• Hinges pinned?

TEST PILOT BRIEFING

Control throws

Elevator & aileron - 3/4" each way

Rudder 1 1/2" each way

Centre of gravity

The centre of gravity as shown on the planis between 85-95mm back from the rearof F2

Projected all up weight

5.5 - 6lb

Important safety advice

Please take time to fully read through thesafety notes regarding the operation andflying of model aircraft in general, at theback of this manual

The 4 bladed prop shown is for static use only.

Safety notes and warnings relating to model aircraft

Before building the model it is important that you read the instructions

right through to the end. The work which you have to carry out is

important and must be done carefully. The model will only be strong and

fly well if you complete your tasks competently - so please work slowly

and accurately. You have acquired a kit which can be assembled into a

fully working RC model when fitted out with suitable accessories.

However, we, as manufacturers, have no control over the way you build

and operate your RC model aircraft, nor how you install, operate and

maintain the associated components, and for this reason we are obliged

to deny all liability for loss, damage or costs which are incurred due to the

incompetent or incorrect use and operation of our products, or which are

connected with such operation in any way.

Unless otherwise prescribed by binding law, the obligation of the company

to pay compensation, regardless of the legal argument employed, is

excluded. This includes personal injury, death, damage to buildings,

damage due to loss of business or turnover, interruption of business or

other direct or indirect consequent damage whose root cause was the

operation of the model. The model is built and flown at the sole and

express responsibility of the operator. The only way to avoid injury to

persons and damage to property is to handle and operate the model with

the greatest care and consideration at all times. Before you fly the model

for the first time you must check whether your private third party liability

insurance policy covers you for operating model aircraft of this type. If you

are not sure, take out a special policy designed to cover modelling risks.

These safety notes must be kept in a safe place. If you ever dispose of the

model, be sure to pass them on to the new owner.

Be sure to read right through the instructions covering assembly and

operation of your model before you attempt to operate it for the first time.

These safety notes are an integral part of the instructions. Powered model

aircraft are very demanding and potentially dangerous machines, and call

for a high level of technical knowledge and skill from the operator,

together with a responsible attitude. Powered model aircraft are not

suitable for young persons under 18 years of age. Young people should

only be permitted to operate this model under the instruction and

supervision of an adult who is aware of the hazards involved in this

activity. The operator of the model must be in full possession of his or her

bodily and mental faculties. As with car driving, operating a model aircraft

under the influence of alcohol or drugs is not permissible under any

circumstances. Radio-controlled model aircraft may only be employed for

the purpose intended by the manufacturer. They must never be used as

man-carrying machines. We do not condone this model’s use in any way

except as a model aircraft. A radio-controlled model aircraft can only work

properly and fulfil your expectations if it is built very carefully and in

accordance with the building instructions. Do not make any modifications

of any kind to the design features or materials. If you wish to avoid

injuring people and damaging property it is essential to be careful and

painstaking at all stages of building and operating your model. Model

flying is a skill which has to be learned. We suggest that you ask for help

from an experienced model flyer, or join a model club or flight training

school. Your local model shop and specialist magazines are excellent

sources of information.

• Adhesives and paints contain solvents which may be hazardous to

health under certain circumstances. Read and observe the notes and

warnings supplied by the manufacturer of these materials

• Check your RC system regularly as its components eventually wear and

need to be replaced or repaired. Read and observe the instructions and

recommendations provided by the manufacturer of your radio control

system and accessory components. Radio interference caused by

unknown sources can occur at any time without warning. If this should

happen, your model will be uncontrollable and completely unpredictable.

Never leave your radio control system unguarded, as other people might

pick it up and try to use it. You alone are responsible for the safe

operation of your radio-controlled model and motor.

• Model motors are usually started with the help of an electric starter

which should be fitted with the appropriate adaptor where necessary. With

fixed-wing models an alternative is to use a “chicken stick”. Take care that

the glowplug clip and the glow lead cannot get tangled in the propeller or

other rotating parts.

• Model engines generate a lot of heat. The motor and silencer in

particular become very hot when running, and stay at a high temperature

for quite a while. Remove all unused fuel from the fuel tank and motor

after every session. Never run an internal combustion engine in an

enclosed space such as a cellar, garage etc. Model motors produce lethal

carbon monoxide gas just like full-size engines. It is important that you

are able to stop your motor at any time. This is achieved by adjusting the

throttle so that the barrel closes completely when you move the throttle

stick and trim to their end-points. If this does not work, pinch the fuel

feed line between your fingers or pull it off the carburettor.

• Many model motors are very noisy, producing a sound level much

higher than 85dB, which implies that you should wear ear defenders.

Never run a motor without the silencer fitted.

• Whenever you are working on the motor, make sure that you are on a

safe surface and cannot slip. Get used to holding the model securely

• If you start your motor when the model is standing on loose or sandy

ground, the propeller will suck up sand and dust and hurl it around, and it

could easily get in your eyes. Wear protective goggles at such times.

• Model fuels are volatile and highly inflammable. Keep them well away

from open flames, excessive heat, all possible sources of sparks and

anything else which could result in a fire. Do not smoke in the immediate

vicinity of fuel or fuel vapours. Model fuels are toxic; do not allow them to

come into contact with your eyes or mouth. Fuel should always be stored

in clearly marked containers, out of the reach of children

• Propellers and other rotating parts which are powered by a motor

represent a permanent hazard and present a real risk of injury. Don’t

Important notes on safetyImportant notes on safety

touch them with any part of your body. Keep well clear of the rotational

plane of the propeller, you never know when some part may come loose

and fly off at high speed, hitting you or anybody else in the vicinity. Never

touch the revolving propeller with any object. Take care with loose clothing

such as scarves, loose shirts etc. Clothing can easily be sucked into the

area of the propeller and then get tangled in the blades.

• Take particular care when carrying the model with the motor running.

Hold the rotating parts well away from you!

• Don’t operate your model from public roads, school playgrounds, public

parks or sports grounds etc. Keep a safe distance from residential areas:

at least 1.5km “as the crow flies”. Always keep well clear of high-tension

overhead cables. The best solution is to join a model flying club and use

the approved flying site.

• If there are passers-by or spectators at your flying site, make sure that

they are aware of the dangers inherent in your activity, and insist that they

keep a safe distance away (at least 10m). Watch the model constantly

while it is in the air and ensure that you are always in full control of the

model. Never fly directly over or towards people

• Take-off and landing strips should be kept free of unauthorised people

and movable obstacles, particularly when a model is using the strip

• Radio-controlled models should only be flown in “normal” weather

conditions. Extreme temperatures can lead to changes in battery capacity,

material characteristics and other unwanted effects

If you take reasonable care, model flying is a highly creative, instructive,

enjoyable and relaxing pastime.

Pre-flight checks

• If you are a relative beginner to model flying, we recommend

that you enlist an experienced model pilot to help you check and

test-fly the model.

• It is fundamentally essential to set the Centre of Gravity (CG) and

control surface travels correctly. Adjust the model until they are

exactly correct.

• Ensure that the channel you intend to use is not already in use

by other modellers. Never fly the model if you are not certain that

your channel is free.

• Before you fly the model check that the radio control system is

working reliably, and that all connections are secure. Check the

radio control system works correctly at full range before every

flight: switch on the transmitter and the receiving system, but leave

the transmitter aerial collapsed. Walk away from the model, and

check that all the control surfaces work smoothly and immediately

at an appropriate distance, and deflect in the correct “sense”

(direction) relative to the stick movements. Repeat the checks with

the motor running, while a friend holds the model firmly for you.

The batteries must be charged and the range of the radio control

system must be checked before you operate the model. In

particular, the radio control system batteries must be fully charged

before each session. Every time you intend to operate your model,

and after each flight, check carefully that it and everything attached

to it (e.g. propeller, linkages, control surfaces etc.) is in good

condition and undamaged. If you find a fault, do not fly the model

until you have corrected it.

• Be sure to keep an adequate supply of fuel in the tank. Don’t

continue to fly the model until the tank is empty.

• Clean the model carefully after every flight, and remove any dirt

from the propeller. Clean the model and RC components using

suitable cleaning agents only.

• All model flyers should behave in such a way that the danger to

people and property is minimised. Never act in any way which will

disturb other flyers and jeopardise safe, orderly flying at the site. In

legal terms our models are classed as aircraft, and as such are

subject to legal regulations and restrictions which must be

observed.

• If the model is not to be run for a considerable time it is

important to clean and re-lubricate all the moving parts

To purchase any kit or accessory please visit our website at www.warbirdreplicas.co.ukAlternatively contact: Warbird Replicas, 17 Curzon Way, Chelmsford, Essex CM2 6PF England

Email [email protected] Telephone +44 [0]1245-284791 (9am-7pm only please)

Lavochkin LA7 GBP £119.95 inc VAT

SpecificationsKit difficulty rating •••••Wingspan: 1400mm [55"]

Radio: 4-5 channel

Motor: 40-46 2st or equivalent 4 stroke

Weight: 6lb approx

Hurricane GBP £129.95 inc VAT

ME109 GBP £119.95 inc VAT

Mustang P51B GBP £149.95 inc VAT

Warbird Replicas, rediscover the pleasure of model making...


Radio: 4-5 channel


Weight: 6lb approx

Optional extras:Malcolm Hood style canopy [as shown above]

– £4.95


Radio: 4-5 channel


Weight: 8.5lb approx

Optional extras:Scale Robart wheels for above – £12.95


Radio: 4-5 channel


Weight: 6lb approx

Whether you’re a new or experienced builder, the current line-up of top quality kits from Warbird Replicas will

give you the unique feeling of building and then flying something you have created. To make construction quick

and easy, kits feature laser-cut plywood parts and hand picked pre-cut balsa. Cowl, canopies, scoops and

exhaust stacks included in most kits. Unlike many other manufacturers every component has been included for

its durability, performance and suitability not cost alone.

Designed & manufactured in the UK

Exhausts

2 stroke in-cowl silencer .40-.53 – £14.99

4 stroke in-cowl silencer .52 – £19.99

Retracts

Mechanical Retract Pack – £49.95

Includes 1 pair of mechanical retracts plusundercarriage legs, vacuum formed wheelwells, retract servo and invaluable instructionsheet.

Pneumatic Air Retract Pack – £109.95

Includes 1 pair of pneumatic air retracts plusundercarriage legs, vacuum formed wheelwells and invaluable instruction sheet.

Servos

SuperTec retract servo S136GH (withaccessories) – £21.50 each

Miscellaneous

Pilot & cockpit set – £9.95

Books

Scale Aircraft, Models for Everyday Flying byGordon Whitehead - £18.00

Kit Postage

Mainland UK- £9.95

Overseas - contact us for international rates

Recommended accessoriesavailable for all kits

unique kits designed for real model makers - warbird … kits designed for real model makers. thank...

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