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CONTENTSAs the flowers bud and we begin to bid the cold goodbye, wecould be forgiven for feeling like a celebration. The people of the city of Zaragoza, in fact, are preparing for one as I write. A celebration of diversity, sustainability and, above all, water.Because this historical city in the heartland of Spain will behosting the world’s greatest show on water and sustainability,EXPO 2008. Over four months, welcome the ideas of hundreds of nations from all over the world on how to best use this scarceresource, and put up a great show while they’re at it. Let us guideyou through it.

If you plan to visit you’d do well to extend your visit a few daysand pop over to the subject of our next feature, the mountainregion of Somontano, where the most modern productionmethods are being put to use to make world-class wines. Furtherup north, in the Basque countryside, we interview one of Spain’smost exciting chefs, whose unique philosophy of alta cocina usesherbs and spices to create a “cuisine of whispers” and acommunion with nature in his restaurant.

To top the issue off, we also take an in-depth look at a selection of eight cheeses from around Spain that will give you a feel for the diversity, contrast and wealth of flavours that you could find in a Spanish cheese shop.

All this plus recipes by our new chef, wine recommendations, and much, much more. So, a wedge of Manchego cheese in onehand and a glass of Somontano in the other I wish you anentertaining read.

Cathy BoiracEditor in Chief

SPAIN GOURMETOUR SPRING 2008

Spring FeaturesAround Spain in 8 CheesesGoat, cow, or sheep milk; matured,fresh or smoked; smooth as silk or with the hit of a jackhammer;cheeses are as different betweenthem as the areas they hail from.Join us on a journey of taste aroundSpain ............................................4

EXPO 08: WorldSustainability and HumanSustenance in ZaragozaThrough three months in 2008, the city of Zaragoza and itsInternational Expo will host theworld’s largest show on watersustainability and the methods tomake clean water available toeveryone in the world. A perfectexcuse to visit this charming citywhere, culture aside, a tapas tour is not to be missed.......................14

Modern Day Architects of WineHidden behind the snow-toppedmountains of the Pyrenees is a wineregion which, despite its small size,is one of the big players in theSpanish wine scene. We visitSomontano, the place whereinnovation and winemaking are oneand the same ......................................24

Andoni Aduriz: On SpiceHidden deep in the Basquecountryside is Mugaritz, therestaurant of rising star and culinaryrevolutionary Andoni Aduriz. Hisaims? To create unique meals. Hisassets? Spices, herbs and anencyclopaedic knowledge of Botany ........................................32

Regular FeaturesSpain: Small bitesOur guide to a Spain closeto home ........................................2

VistasBritish ‘Spainophile’ PaulRichardson tells us of eating in Buñuel’s “land without bread”, while Ireland’s Darina Allendescribes Spain’s largest cookingshow: Madrid Fusión ..................38

Recipes and Wine MarriageChef Nino Redruello of La Ancharestaurant and sommelier María JoséHuertas of La Terraza del Casinooffer you six delicious ideas andtheir choice of what to ‘wash themdown’ with ..................................40

Shopping guideFind Spanish products near you ......................................51

SMALL BITES Spain

UNITED KINGDOMRIBERA’S BOY IN LONDONThe Wallace Collection, in co-operationwith the Musée du Louvre in Paris, ishosting the exhibition Masterpieces ofthe Louvre, open until Sunday 18thMay. Among the loaned paintings isone of the gems of 17th-centurySpanish painting: El patizambo (TheBoy with the Club Foot) by Baroquegenius José de Ribera. Thisheartwarming rendition of a youngNeapolitan beggar complements theWallace Collection's own selection ofSpanish paintings by Velázquez,Murillo and Alonso Cano plus asplendid array of eighteenth-centuryFrench works. The Wallace Collection, HertfordHouse, Manchester Square Londonwww.wallacecollection.org

JUAN MUÑOZ AT TATE MODERNSix years after his sudden anduntimely death, Tate ModernMuseum pays tribute to Juan Muñoz,the most significant sculptor of post-Franco Spain, showing some of his best known works till 27thApril. Muñoz, who always describedhimself as a storyteller, came tointernational prominence in the mid 1980s because of his dramaticinstallations, which isolated humanfigures through perspectivetechniques. This is the first majorMuñoz retrospective in the UK since 2001, when he exhibited hisinstallation Double Bind, the

second of the Unilever commissionsfor the Tate´s Turbine Hall, twomonths before he died. Tate Modern. www.tate.org.uk

SERIOUS READINGMATTEROver forty Spanish publishers will be present at the London Book Fair,set to take place at Earls Court &Olympia from 14th to 16th April. The fair will also host a rich series of seminars, master classes and author-related events such as readingsand conferences. For more informationvisit: www.londonbookfair.co.uk

IRELANDTOP TASTINGS Wine lovers should head to Enowine, a Dublin wine shop with a special tastingstation that allows visitors to taste over60 wines. The wines are alternatedregularly and this month showcase theirSpanish selection. Highlights include the Emina Rueda 2006, Leira RejeroAlbarino 2006, Ars Nova 2004 andMatarromera Melior 2006. For moreinformation log onto www.enowine.ie.

HOT TIPFoodies will already be familiar withIbérico ham, a ham from Iberian pigsfed on acorns and allowed to run wild.Delicious served as finger food ortapas, look out for El Coto de Galan,an Ibérico ham made by a Spanishfamily in the region of Extremadura,recently imported to Ireland andcurrently available in Caviston’s,Glasthule.

GREAT DROPSpain might be best known as aproducer of red wines, but its whitewines have improved dramaticallyover the last 20 years, with fresharomatic wines from Rías Baixas,Bierzo and Rueda making wine buffssit up and take note. Don’t missTramoya Verdejo Rueda 2005, made by the Escudero family in the village

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of La Seca, John Wilson’s best valuewhite wine of the year in his book, Best of Wine in Ireland 2008. Just¤7.99 from Dunnes Stores, it’s a wellbalanced drop with rich fruit, livelyacidity and a long finish.

ONES TO WATCHSome new wines will be winging theirway from Spain this year. For excellentvalue for money, check out the winesfrom the Bodegas Lezaun near Lacar,in the foothills of the mountainranges of Urbasa and Andía. Theirraspberry coloured Egiarte Rosé,2006, is just ¤6.35 while theirLezaun Reserva 2002, ¤13.95, is a powerful but elegant drop with a hint of maturing fruit, lauded inDecanter magazine as, “Nice rich,fragrant, promising. Considerablerichness - prominent extracted fruitwith tannins in proportion.Potentially a great wine”. Find it atRedmond's of Ranelagh, Michael'sWines (Mount Merrion, Co. Dublin);Gibney's Off-Licence (Malahide, Co.Dublin); The Kingdom Food & Wine(Tralee, Co. Kerry); Mitchell & Son(Rathfarnham, D14) and The WicklowArms (Delgany, Co. Wicklow). Wealso love the wines from FincaLoranque, made by the competentDíaz Bermejo family. Their La CruzCabernet-Syrah 2003, ¤8.95, has all the characteristics of a classicCabernet Sauvignon, while theirFinca Loranque Syrah-Tempranillo2005, ¤12.50, is a well concentrateddrop with a hint of vanilla, subtlenutty flavours and a long aftertaste.Directly from Approach Trade.

Murcia al vino Idiazábal

Next pageTop: MontenegroBottom: Mahón-Menorca

Tetilla

Valdeón Manchego

Torta del Casar

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Around

Bathed by three different seas, the secondmost mountainous country in Europe, yetalso the site of some of its vastest plainsand one of its longest coastlines, Spain isnothing if not a country of contrasts anddiversity. This shows in many aspects ofSpanish life, and one of the most importantis its food and wine. As Saul Aparicio findsout, cheese is a striking example.

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Spain is a country of rutasor routes. The whole of itsgeography is crisscrossed bythese routes, some of themreligious – such as the Caminode Santiago which pilgrimstraveled to Apostle James’ finalresting place in Spain –, someof them literary – such as the Quixote route, whichplots the fictional knight’stravels round La Mancha –, or the true gourmand’sfavourite: food and wine routes. It is often surprising howilluminating a country’s foodscan be to understanding it.The particular case of Spain’scheeses is an interestingexample: even in a small

selection, no more than eight,the tremendous diversity ofclimates, livestock, traditionsand gastronomic pleasures in Spain shows through.

Central Spain –The Castiles and ExtremaduraStrange as it may seem, thewhole history of central Spain cannot be fullyunderstood without talkingabout sheep and goats. Fromtimes immemorial the peopleof the plains of central Spain – a dry, arid region wheretemperatures went from

extreme cold in the winter to extreme heat in thesummer – subsisted thanks to shepherding. Thousands of nomadic shepherds would migrate yearly fromwest to east or south to north,crossing hundreds of kilometres to have theiranimals graze the green grass of the mountains in thesummer, then fleeing to the warmer plains before thefirst snows came. So for ourlook at the cheeses of CentralSpain, we will take you downthe road that so manyshepherds have taken beforeus: from temperate plains to green mountain pastures.

Text Saul Aparicio

PhotosJuan Manuel Sanz/ICEX

Matías Costa/ICEX

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Torta del CasarThis cheese from Extremadurais a dream come true topeople that enjoy their cheeseas a dip. The inside of thecheese is creamy and runny,so the most common way toserve it is by simply slicingthe top off and spooning itout or dipping directly fromthe cheese rind ‘bowl’ thatremains.

Made from the raw milk ofMerino and Entrefina sheep,the native breeds of sheepwhose wool was long Europe’smost prized for its quality and length, the cheese is alsounique in that the rennetemployed to produce thecheese is not of animal origin,but produced from a plant.The flowers of wild thistles arepressed for a juice, which isadded to the raw milk to beginthe curdling. The resultingcurd is broken into smallpieces and manually pressedinto cylinder-shaped molds,and matured for at least 60days, turning it over every day. Aromatically, it is quitepungent, and it has a strong,mature, rich and intense taste,with a touch of bitterness fromthe thistle rennet.

The name Torta, a type of Spanish cake, comes from its external appearance,whilst Casar is the regionwhere it is made. A closecousin of this cheese is theTorta de La Serena, alsomade in Extremadura, and which is another cheese-dipping heaven. One final tip: keep itrefrigerated so that the runny inside will not deform the shape, but make sure that, when youserve it, it is at roomtemperature.

ManchegoProduced in the region ofCastile-La Mancha, betweenMadrid and Andalusia,Manchego cheese is made only from the whole milk (raw or pasteurized) of anative breed of sheep, theManchega. The cheese iscylinder shaped, around 25cm (10 in.) in diameter and12 cm (4.5 in.) thick, andweighs in at about 4 kgs (9 lbs). The rind’s colourvaries from light brown todark gray, and the cut reveals an even, white or light yellow paste.

Although always creamy,moderately salty, slightlypiquant and recognizably made from sheep’s milk, thetaste depends on the time ithas been matured in caves.Fresco (fresh – only twomonths mature) is mild,subtle, and fresh. Viejo (old–matured for a full year) isstrong, full-bodied anddistinctly tangy. Lying inbetween is Curado (meaning,simply, matured), which is 3 to 6 months old and tendsto be the most widelyavailable option.

ValdeónMade in the mountainousregion of northern León, inCastile-León, Valdeón cheese is made from goat’s milk,cow’s milk, or a mixture ofboth. Shaped as an unevencylinder and weighingroughly 3 kgs (6.5 lbs), theoutside of the cheese is darkgrey, with some red and bluespots. It is normally wrappedup in leaves, which keep itfresh. Its soft paste is paleyellow in colour, streakedwith greenish-blue veins.Smooth in taste for a bluecheese, but still strong, its

defining features are a fatty,unctuous texture and a slightly spicy finish. Thestrength of the taste dependson the time it is matured,ranging from semicurado(mildest) to curado (strongest)

MontenebroMontenebro cheese issometimes also labeled asQueso del Tiétar, after thename of the valley in theregion of Ávila (Castile-León)where it is made. This cheeseis made exclusively from themilk of two autochthonousbreeds of goats, the Retintaand Verata, pasteurized in the vast majority of cases. Its shape is that of a slightlyflattened tube, weighingroughly 1.5 kgs (3.25 lbs).The blueish-green colour and softness of the rind is the result of the action ofpenicilium molds, whichoccurs during the time thecheese is matured. Theinterior is even, compact and white, and bears sharp,spicy and nutty aromas,especially hazelnut. Melt-inthe-mouth creamy, fatty andrich, its taste is sharp anddecidedly racy.

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The NorthernCoastThe northern coast of Spain isoften referred to as ‘greenSpain’, since its humid Atlanticweather is the exact opposite of the usual image some have of a dry, hot, sunny Spain. Witha landscape covered in rollinghills and green pastures, thecattle of the area includes cowsaside from sheep, producing atruly mind-boggling amount ofdifferent cheeses. By way ofexample we could say that thesmall region of Asturias, whichis roughly half the size of theNew York Metropolitan area,produces more than a hundred

different cheeses. So in order toavoid any mind-boggling, andin the hope that some day wewill speak of Asturias alone,this part of our cheese trip willtake us to the nearby BasqueCountry and the Northwestcorner of Spain, Galicia.

IdiazábalIdiazábal cheese is one of themany gastronomic gems of theBasque Country. The name ofthe cheese does not, in fact,come from the town where it istraditionally made, but fromthe town where it was sold.Shepherds of the region wouldcome down from the mountainpastures in the autumn, fleeing

the cold after the summer,bringing down with them thesheep and the cheese both.

The cheese is made from theraw milk of two native breedsof sheep, the Latxa and theCarranza, which is curdledwith lamb rennet and thenmatured for a minimum of twomonths and a maximum of six.The majority of the cheeses arethen smoked over birch, whitehawthorn or beech fires,although some unsmokedversions can be found.

Idiazábal cheese iscylindrical in shape, roughly 10 cms (4 in.) in height andbetween 10 and 30 cms (4 and 12 in.) in diameter.

The surface of the cheese isextremely smooth, and itscolour can range between apale grey to dark brown,depending on how intensely it has been smoked. Theinterior is ivory white incolour, and small, unevenholes (rarely larger than agrain of rice) are present allover its surface. Its taste is full of balance: rich, but notenough that you’ll have yourfill with just one piece;slightly salty without havingyou reach for a glass of water;and with hints of smokinessthat don’t mask the full sheep milk taste or the subtlepiquant finish.

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Tetilla Tetilla cheese, we could say, is the most sensual of Spanishcheeses. This isn’t due to itbeing creamy, soft andsmooth, but to the name itbears. Tetilla literally meanssmall breast, which is theshape in which it is presented.

Never much heavier than 1 kg (2.2 lbs), it has a yellowrind that is soft, smooth andflexible. The paste is off-white,soft, and bears some evenlyspread small holes.

The cheese is made from thepasteurized milk of cows fedon the rich, green, pastures ofGalicia, and it shows whenyou taste it. A touch salty,

A SMALL SELECTION OF SPANISH

CHEESES SHOWS THE GREAT VARIETY OF GASTRONOMIC

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buttery and smooth, fewcheeses melt as deliciously asTetilla. All over Spain, in fact,it is enjoyed as the meltedtopping on a slice of rusticbread covered with thetypical ham of the region,lacón.

MediterraneanMediterranean is a word oftenused to define the diet andgastronomy of Spain. And,indeed, Mediterraneanproducts, conditions andhabits permeate the whole ofthe country. Many of Spain’smost famous dishes, such aspaella originate in the region.So, for the last straight of ourcheese ‘tournée’, we’ll begin

on the Mediterranean coast ofthe mainland´s and jump overto the Balearic Islands.

Murcia al vino Murcia al vino cheese isamongst the most uniquecheeses in the world. Not only is it one of the fewcheeses infused with red wine, but it is also responsiblefor the preservation of anautochthonous Spanish species.

For many centuries, goats of the Murciana breed werethe main source of livelihoodfor the people of the mostrocky, dry, regions of Murcia.The life of the goatherd is a hard one, though, and withthe progress of the tourismindustry in the Spanish coast,

the number of goatherds andMurciana goats steadilydwindled. The newfoundpopularity of this cheese inthe past two decades,however, has had a realimpact in this aspect, makingthe future of the breed safe.

Centuries of adaptationmean that despite grazing onarid lands, the Murciana goatproduces rich and plentifulmilk, delicately infused withthe aromas of the wild herbsthat it grazes on the sunswepthills of the region.

But perhaps this cheese´s moststriking difference is the use ofwine in the cheesemakingprocess. During the ripeningstage of the cheese (whichtakes a minimum of 45 days),

it is dipped twice in the full-bodied, intense red wine of the region. This infuses thecheese with the aromas ofwine, and gives the rind itscharacteristic reddish-purplecolor and floral aromas. Barrel-shaped and weighingbetween 1 and 2 kgs (2,20 and 4,40 lbs), the intenselywhite paste within the red rind is smooth and a littlesharp tasting. It has a firm but extremely buttery texture,making it an excellent‘snacking’ cheese.

Queso de Mahón-MenorcaMahón cheese is named afterthe capital of the Balearic

Matías Costa/ICEX

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Island of Menorca, which hasone of the longest documentedtraditions of cheesemaking inall of Spain. Archeologicalremains indicate that cheesewas already being made therearound 2,000 BC, and Arabicdocuments dating back to1,000 AD sing its praisesextensively. It was, however,during the 18th-century – when the island was underthe tutelage of the Britishcrown – that this cheese wasnamed after the port fromwhich it was shipped todevoted fans all over Europe.

The milk used to make thecheese comes from twobreeds of cow, the Frisona (or Holstein) and the nativeMenorquina, the latter of

which is an important cog in the rich ecosystem of theisland (Menorca has beendeclared a Biosphere Reserveby UNESCO). Although mostof the island’s production ismade with pasteurized milk,some Mahón cheeses madefrom raw milk can be found,normally labeled as artesano.

Its shape is square, withrounded off edges, and has a swirly shape imprinted onthe top. This is due to theway in which excess liquid is drained off when it is made – the cheese is wrappedinto a cotton cloth, called afogasser, the four corners ofwhich are tied into a knot thatleaves the markings. A wholecheese tends to weigh around

3 kgs (6.5 lbs), though weightand size can vary anywherebetween 1 and 4 kgs(2,20 and 8,80 lbs).

The colour of both the rindand the paste varies dependingon the time it has been aged.Tierno (tender) is the leastcured of all. Ivory white incolour, it has a thin rind and is a lightly salty fresh cheese,ideal to have with marmalades,in salads or with membrillo(quince paste). Semicurado, orshortly matured, has a thicker,orange rind, and the inside isalso a darker shade of white,bordering on yellow. It has afirm paste, though easily cut,which is dotted with smallholes. It has complex tastes andaromas, amongst which creamy

butter and toasted nutsdominate. Curado, finally, is the most mature of all. The rind is brown and theinside cream-coloured.Somewhat harder than theprevious two, it is flaky ratherthan creamy. It is also the most intense in taste, since the nutty aromas of its ‘youngerbrothers’ are complemented by oaky ‘notes’ and amoderately hot finish.

Saul Aparicio is a Madrid-basedfreelance writer and translator,whose articles and contributions on food and tourism have appearedin different media outlets in Spain,the UK and The Netherlands. He is also part of the editorial team of Spain Gourmetour.

MURCIA AL VINO CHEESE IS INFUSED WITH THE AROMAS OF WILD HERBS AND RED WINE

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Many of the cheeses in this article sport a ProtectedDesignation of Origin status, or D.O.P. A D.O.P. is, essentially,a quality guarantee – cheeses (and other products) madewithin a D.O.P. must conform to a series of quality guaranteesand pre-established methods of production. In the case ofcheese, for instance, it would guarantee that if a cheese issupposed to be made from the milk of a Merino breed sheep,it is guaranteed that a cheese with a D.O.P. seal of quality willindeed be made from that milk. Find more information on thespecifics of each D.O.P. in the following websites:

www.tortadelcasar.org

www.quesomanchego.es

www.quesoidiazabal.com

www.queixotetilla.org

www.quesomahonmenorca.com

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CHEESE AND WINEFinding a wine to fit a cheesecan be a complicated task, so we have turned to an expertfor help. Guillermina Sánchez,born in the wine region ofJumilla, in Murcia, studiedenology, worked in the family winery, trained as a sommelier before studying to become a dairy industrytechnician and entering thecheese industry to becomeone of Spain's foremostauthorities on the subject. She is one of the organizers of Spanish National cheesecontest Gourmetquesos, of which she has been a jury member on variousoccasions. She is also one of the founding members ofQuesarte (www.quesarte.com),a fine and artisan cheeseretailer in Madrid.

“Cheese and wine,” she says,“are two traditional productsthat have always gone hand in hand in all of southernEurope, and especially inMediterranean countries. It makes all the sense in theworld to enjoy them together,although it is important tocombine them wisely.” Thewine of choice to have withcheese in the region wasusually a young red and,although this is “still a goodchoice,” Guillermina claims, the fact remains that somearomas and tastes of cheesescan be lessened by a red wine so, in her opinion, “whitewines, sparkling wines or evengeneroso wines such assherry” can be a wiser choice.Here are some more specificpointers when choosing whatto drink with the cheesesfeatured in the article:

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Manchego

I would once again conditionmy choice to the maturity ofthe particular cheese. If it is a young Manchego I wouldgo for an oak-aged white. If it is very cured and has a lot of character I wouldrecommend an Amontilladoor Palo Cortado sherry.Another good option wouldbe a smooth red that hasspent plenty of time in oak. In other words, a wine that is labeled as Reserva.

Valdeón

Sweet wines would be thedrink of choice with thischeese. A Pedro Ximénezcomes to mind as do sweetwines made with Monastrellor Garnacha. If you preferwhite, you would have tochoose one that has plentyof body and structure, suchas a late harvest wine whichhas spent some time in oak.

Montenebro

Young white wines madewith aromatic varietals suchas Verdejo or SauvignonBlanc, with only little ageingin oak or even without italtogether bring a freshnessand sharpness to the mixthat complement thecreaminess and richness ofthis cheese. Sparkling drywines, especially Cavas, arealso a perfect choice,because the bubbles clearand clean the palate,refreshing it and intensifyingthe flavour of the cheese.Trust me, you won't regrettrying it!

Idiazábal

I enjoy Idiazabal with a whitewine from Rioja, specifically awine made from Viura grapesthat has been aged in oak.Traditionally, in the BasqueCountry this wine is had with Txacoli wine or a sharp, still cider, which alsocomplement the cheese very well.

Tetilla

Tetilla is a smooth, softcheese, young and barelymatured, in which thearomas of milk and butterdominate, so I wouldrecommend a light, youngand quaffable wine. Thewhite wines of Galicia, suchas Rías Baixas Albariños, are a good option, as arefresh, sharpish, young reds.

Torta del Casar

If the Torta is not very matureand still young, my wine ofchoice would be a Cava. If itis more mature, then I wouldlean towards an Oloroso orAmontillado sherry.

Murcia al vino

In this case, the aromas ofthe red wine that are alreadyin the cheese practicallypreclude choosing anythingother than a red. Ideally, inmy opinion, it should be hadwith a young red made fromMonastrell, which is typical ofthe region of Murcia.

Queso de Mahón-Menorca

If it is very mature (8 monthsor more), no better choicethan Amontillado or Olorososherry comes to mind. If it isyounger, try a young barrel-fermented white made fromGarnacha, Chardonnay orMacabeo.

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Zarazoga hosts Expo 2008 for three months

next summer with Water as its theme: how

to preserve and best use this precious

resource. But there’s nothing watery about

the robust food and drink available in the

Aragonese capital for those planning a visit.

Elizabeth Nash digs in.

ZAWorld Sustainability and Human Sustenance at

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From mid-June and for threemonths the Spanish city ofZaragoza has a mission: toshow the world how toconduct itself if it is to have a better future. This historicalcity in the heartland of Spainwill be the site of Expo 08,the 63rd InternationalExhibition, an internationalshow designed to promoteawareness about thesustainable development of the planet.

But even if Zaragoza islooking ahead, its roots liedeep in Europe´s history. Thecity was founded 2,000 yearsago on the banks of themighty Ebro river by theemperor Caesar Augustus, the base from which Romanlegions advanced westward to conquer the rest ofHispania. Caesaragustabecame Sarakusta under theMoors, who occupied the city for 400 years from 714,and left their mark on boththe city’s architecture and its food.

From the start Zaragozaowed its importance to itsstrategic position. Today it

is the midpoint between fourof Spain’s most prosperousregions – Madrid, Valencia,Cataluña and the BasqueCountry. This covers an areaof 22 million inhabitants,very nearly half thepopulation of Spain. “The city is logistically well placednationally and internationallyto host an Expo and be anattractive destination,” saysRoque Gistau, President ofthe Expoagua state organizingcompany.

Water in Spain is an emotivetopic. “In the Mediterraneanregion there is an imbalancebetween haves and have-nots.The Pyrenees are very rainy,whilst here in Zaragoza we´rein semi-desert, so we areacutely aware of the need tosave water,” Mr Gistau says.The Expo, with its cute bug-eyed mascot Fluvi, seeks topromote energy saving andwatersaving measures in theconstruction of the site andits pavilions. “We seek anexemplary construction in theuse of materials and terrainand disposal of waste.”

Text Elizabeth Nash

PhotosTomás Zarza/ICEX

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of liquid that crosses theriver, so the materials imitatethe transparency of water.After the Expo, with thecontents removed, thestructure will appear moretransparent, camouflaged by the river.”

Foldable bicyclesand potato bagsIn addition to these eye-catching initiatives, the Exposeeks to promote goodpractices amongst citizens byoffering 1,500 sturdy foldablebicycles as prizes for the bestsustainability proposals. Thecycles will make it easier forZaragoza´s workforce tonegotiate the streets of the city,cut carbon emissions andreduce motor traffic aroundthe Expo site. The riversidehas been streamlined withcycle lanes already popularwith Zaragozanos. A publiccompetition will decide theprizewinning sustainabilityprojects.

The Expo gives Zaragoza theopportunity to improve itscityscape by restoringneglected areas of the riverside

A hard rain’s a-gonna fallThe Expo hopes to bring the ideals of a progressivealternative lifestyle into thesocial mainstream. Bob Dylanhas reworked his classic song“A hard rain´s a-gonna fall”,which warns ofenvironmental destruction, as the Expo´s theme-song. “I am proud to participate inthis mission to provide cleanwater for everyone,” Dylansays in a promotional video

Another high-profileinternational personalityshowcased in the Expo is the award-winning architectZaha Hadid, whose spectacularBridge Pavilion, shaped likea gladioli flower, is thearchitectural highlight of theshow. “It´s a piece of art, butit has a functional use, toconnect the Expo site withthe city across the riverEbro,” the architect says. “As it´s a bridge it has alinear structure, with threespaces for use during theExpo. Afterwards it willremain as a footbridge. I wanted to transmit the idea

and integrating the river intothe life of the city as aprincipal highway. Anotherproject is to resuscitate thehistoric Imperial Canal ofAragón, an 18th centurywaterway modeled on theManchester ship canal thatpromoted waterborne tradeand the development of riverports. This once grand projecthas languished, but the Expoplans to revive the canal toirrigate the parched villages ofAragón beyond the immediateEbro valley, and to become aleisure waterway.

Those who fly into Zaragoza´sexpanded airport – or glideinto the highspeed trainstation from where you canwalk or ride by cable car tothe site – will be offeredrecycled CDs, recyclednotepads, seaweed pencilsand potato-flour carrier bagsat the Expo. Such low-techeveryday objects embodythe ideals of sustainability,says the Expo´s environmentalspokeswoman, MaiteGálvez: “Optimization ofresources, minimum waste,with environmental cost asclose to zero as possible.

Our aim is to give anexample of what can bedone; to show, not just tell.”

The potato-flour bags –distinguishable from plasticones only by their faintvegetable aroma – wereinvented when potatoes werein oversupply and very cheap.“It´s not waste, it doesn´t needtreating, it doesn’t damage theenvironment. If you cut it upyou can mulch your roseswith it,” Ms Gálvez says. Thebag factory operates 5 milesfrom Zaragoza.

Other examples include the recovery of ‘grey water’through filtration in areservoir, a bacteriologicallavatory that uses no water,and rigorous recycling of waste generated on thesite, such as crockery in the restaurants that isbiodegradable or washable by low-energy machines. “We must educate ourvisitors,” Ms Gálvez says.

Family funApart from offering hands-oninformation to change yourlife, the Expo promises fun forall the family. The Water Park

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on the Ebro flood plain is anopen door to the river,designed to thrive rather thandrown when inundated byspringtime melted snow fromthe mountains. The waterpark offers bathing beaches,horse-riding, water sports andOlympic-level white waterrafting canals, as well asperformances by the Cirquedu Soleil acrobatic theatre.

Unwind in the spa pavilionwhere thermal baths replicatethe baths of the world´s greatcivilizations. Admire 300species of fish from the greatrivers of five continents in the freshwater aquarium.Temporary pavilions roofedwith solar panels examine allaspects of water: from the lackof it and the consequences ofthirst, to extreme conditionslike typhoons, and includingwater-powered energy and thechallenge of sharing out thisprecious resource.

Expo asideIf we follow the water fromthe Expo site and let our gazebe drawn across the river wefind the great symbol ofZaragoza, the Basilica of Our

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Lady of Pilar, whose filigreesteeples are visible at everystep. When transport links arecomplete in June, the old citywill be just a 20-minute walk,or a swift busride, away.

Zaragoza’s splendidly baroqueBasílica del Pilar is dominatedinside by an elaborate marblechapel that houses the SacredColumn of the Virgin, visitedand revered by thousandsevery day. Behind the statue of the virgin is a fragment ofthe jasper pillar, where theVirgin Mary is said to havevisited 2,000 years ago, wornconcave from being kissed bygenerations of worshippers.The basilica contains acolourful dome fresco byGoya, who came from Aragón,and a magnificent gothic andrenaissance alabaster high altar.

Austerely plain outside butbreathtakingly elaboratewithin is Zaragoza´s cathedral,La Seo del Salvador. Begun inthe 12th century, the Seo isbuilt of soaring pillars of brickpainted to look like stoneblocks, and is bathed withlight from high circularwindows. Focal point is the1432 high altarpiece made by

the German master Hans Pietd’Anso, which depicts biblicalscenes full of life and humandetail, including Teutonicmoustaches and a realisticflock of sheep.

Going back further inhistory, the 11th centuryAljafería palace, with its moatand crenellated towers, isZaragoza´s architectural jewel,a revelation to those whoassociate lacy archways andorange-tree patios with thesouth of Spain. This summerpalace of Zaragoza’s Moorishrulers includes medieval hallswith magnificent ceilings andfloor tiles added by theconquering Catholics. Forcenturies used as a prison, the palace today housesAragón’s regional government.Amazingly, this historicalaccumulation of styles hasproduced a building ofharmonious beauty.

Bite by bite tourTapas, those masterpieces ofSpanish mini-cuisine eatenwhile you stand at the barenjoying a drink, also go backcenturies. In Zaragoza theydeveloped in the bars and

THE EXPO HOPES TO BRING THEIDEALS OF APROGRESSIVEALTERNATIVELIFESTYLE INTO THE SOCIALMAINSTREAM

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cafes of the old centre in thatnetwork of narrow streetssouth of the cathedral.Townsfolk have gathered theresince the mid-19th century torelax and gossip with friendsin what many considerSpaniards’ favorite pastime,and Zaragoza built up areputation as a ‘café city’.

Early tapas were fairlysimple: slices of cured meat,sausage, olives or anchoviesthat you hold up by the tailbefore feeding down yourthroat. These remain the basictapas to accompany yourdrink and spark your appetite.But people became moredemanding and mussels intomato sauce began to appear,slices of cheese or peppers, ormorsels of liver, pig’s trotters,shrimp, sardines or slices ofomelet with potato or chorizo.

The custom of tapeo, ofstrolling from bar to barenjoying conversation withfriends, savouring the micro-specialties of eachestablishment with eachperson paying their round, is today a well entrenchedritual. The once humble tapahas become increasingly

refined and elaborate,developing as a sophisticatedbranch of cuisine, with itsown competitions and prizes.In one contest, in 1999,finalists served their offeringson trays of alabaster – thatwarm translucent stonerenowned in Aragón.

Wine and beer are the mostpopular drinks to wash downyour tapeo, but each tapa orpincho requires a drink thatsuits it best. Aragón is itself

a wine region, and issurrounded by Spain’s finestwine producing areas, Rioja,Ribera del Duero, Navarra orPenedés which are in greatdemand. Beer is served in avariety of glasses from thegenerous jarra down throughtubos, cañas and the stubbypenalti. Vermouth – oftenhomemade and drawn fromthe tap –, sherry (Fino orManzanilla), cider and Cavaare equally popular.

‘Tapeo’ in theTubeThe classic tapas route isconcentrated in Zaragoza’s old centre, known as El Tubo,which offers the combinedattraction of closely packedbars and the appeal ofpicturesque historic lanes.One of the most popularhaunts is Las Victorinos (José de la Hera, 6), reputedto offer the best tapas in town.

TAPEO IS SIMPLYSTROLLING FROM BAR TO BAR ENJOYING CONVERSATION WITHFRIENDS AND SAVOURING THE MICRO-SPECIALTIES

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Its bar is laden with elaboratemicro-dishes, including stuffedmushroom in sauce, vegetablemousse with duck, artichokestuffed with hare, assortedmushrooms with liver, peppersstuffed with beef, liver withraspberry.

Another venerable haunt, the Alta Taberna PedroSaputo (Antonio Agustín, 19),offers fritters of Cabrales, arich blue cheese from thenorthern Asturias region,from a bar lined with a hugevariety of fresh seafood –shrimps, cockles, mussels,clams, goose barnacles,sardines – and a huge dish of shining black olives lacedwith pearly onion slices.

Nearby Casa Luis (Romea, 8)offers the city´s finest cojonudos– quail´s egg, ham and red

pepper on a slice of toast,prepared on the spot – andmini helpings of meatballs inalmond sauce, or oxtail stew.

In contrast to these cozy,traditional taverns, Meli Melo(Mayor, 45), with its sparewhite décor and youthfulambience, offers a freshmodern take on the tapa. The house specialty,minuscule roast potato stuffedwith stewed veal in olive oiland garlic sauce, accompaniedwith poached onion, was arecent winner in a regionaltapas contest. Their latestoffering, a fritter of vealmorsels cooked with Arabicspices and chickpeas, honorsthe city´s Mudéjar culinaryheritage (Mudéjar is the name given to the Musliminhabitants of Spain wholived on Christian territory in the Middle Ages). A toast of goose-liver moussetopped with red berries alsopresents the classic Moorishcombination of sweet andsavoury.

Whilst strolling from bar tobar, don’t miss the fabulouslyornate confectionery shopFantoba (Don Jaime I, 21),which specializes in theregion´s fine crystallized fruitsand marinated cherries bathedin chocolate. The walls aredecorated with elaborateEgyptian-style friezes andmasks dating from the 1870s.Equally striking, andwelcoming, is the BodegasAlmau (Estebanes, 10) run bythe fourth generation of wine

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M With over 3,400 shows by 350 companies and artistsprogrammed over the three months that Expo will beopen, visitors are sure to find plenty to do and seeduring their time in Zaragoza. Although some of theshows will be on for a limited time period (such as thesuggestively named Night of Fire, a tremendousfireworks show programmed for 24th June), others willbe on permanently throughout the Expo. A case inpoint is the daily parade, designed and acted out bythe world-famed Cirque du Soleil, which will meanderacross the Expo grounds every day at noon or theinteractive twenty minute ‘airborne theater’ show thatthe creators of Argentinean troupe De La Guarda willbe performing six times a day. Another such case isIceberg, a multimedia show that will combinespectacular lights, music, fireworks and acting on aniceberg-shaped stage floating along the Ebro river.

Apart from the common ‘theme-based’ pavilions andshowrooms, over 100 different countries, regions andNGOs will be presenting spaces of their own. Fromsub-Saharan Africa to ice-covered Scandinavia, eachof the participants will offer their own take on water andsustainability through shows and exhibitions. Spain'spavilion, for instance, designed to simulate one of thepoplar forests that are typical of the region of Zaragoza,will revolve around the idea of Science and Creativity,whereas Aragon's own building, designed to becomethe seat of the local government once Expo is finished,will explore Water and the Future.

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enthusiasts, whose high wallsare stacked with hundreds ofbottles on shelves reaching tothe ceiling. Downstairs is thebodega, and a terrace outsideoffers art shows and live musicsessions, even in winter. Anaperitif of cured ham and asalty anchovy, washed downwith iced vermouth splashed

with soda, offers a memorablestop on your tapas tour, andsets you up for more seriousconsideration of how theenjoyment of our planet can be prolonged and preserved.

Elizabeth Nash is MadridCorrespondent for London’sThe Independent newspaper

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AY Less than one hour away from Zaragoza you can find much to do:

SkiingNorth of Zaragoza, the mighty Pyrenees mountains are thesite of a wide range of skiing resorts that will accommodateany skier, from the novice to the pro. The largest Aragoneseski resorts are: Formigal, Cerler, Astún and Candanchú. Formore information:

www.aramon.es

www.astun.com (in Spanish)

www.candanchu.com

Natural reserves Trekkers, nature watchers and those seeking to escape thetrappings of urban life can find some of Spain's largestwildlife havens very close indeed. The Pyrenees rise alongthe border of the province of Huesca, north of Zaragoza,bordering with France. Nature lovers will find a wide rangeof activities available, from rural tourism and trekking toadventure sports. The star of the Aragonese Pyrenees is theNational Park of Ordesa and Monte Perdido, one of the firstnature reserves to be declared a national park (back in1918) and home to endangered species such as thebearded vulture, the Iberian wood grouse or the royal eagle.

South of the city of Zaragoza, in the natural park of theMonasterio de Piedra visitors can enjoy a two and a halfhour walk along waterfalls, gardens and caves, and take arest in a Cistercian monastery where the Calatayud WineMuseum lies.

www.turismodearagon.com

Wine tourismThe four wine regions of Aragón are within easy distance ofZaragoza. For more information, view the article onSomontano starting on page 24

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ARCHI of wineTextPatricia Langton

PhotosCRDO Somontano

IllustrationsJavier Zabala

Modern day

TECTS If ever you should find

yourself in need of proof

that, at least in the wine

world, size does not

matter, head straight for

the wine region of

Somontano. Nestled at

the foot of the Pyrenees,

Somontano may well be

small but, as Patricia

Langton finds, it counts

itself amongst the most

innovative, respected and

enterprising wine regions

in the whole of Spain.

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The northern region ofSomontano is one of Spain’ssmallest wine regions andarguably the country’s mostmodern. In fact, it haspropelled itself to theforefront of the excitingSpanish wine scene withremarkable speed over thelast decade based on asuccessful formula ofinnovation and quality.

To put Somontano’s winesinto context, it’s worth takinga quick look at some

significant historical events.Winemaking has deep rootshere dating back to the timeof the Romans or even earlier.So, it was already firmlyestablished when the Frenchcame to Somontano (andRioja) in search of significantwine stocks when the deadlyphylloxera vine louseattacked their vineyards inthe 1860s.

One Bordeaux wine family,Lalanne, recognized thepotential of Somontano

around that time and settledin the region. By 1894Lalanne had established abusiness at Barbastro, themain town servingSomontano, and introducedFrench grape varieties as wellas more up-to-date Frenchwinemaking practices.Generations later Lalanne isone of around 30 recognizedSomontano wine producersand French grape varieties,having stood the test of time,still play a key role in

winemaking.Two other significant years

bring us much closer toSomontano’s modern era. In1984 the region was grantedDenominación de Origen(D.O.) status, which pavedthe way for recognition onthe national and internationalstage, and in 1986 Spainjoined the EEC (now the EU)which boosted investmentand encouraged localbusinesses to join the fray.

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facilities to allow winemakersto achieve the best possibleresults from the grapes thatenter through the winerydoors. Viñas del Vero andEnate, two of the largestproducers, were the first toemerge in the 90s with theirdramatic cutting-edgefacilities and more recentlyOtto Bestué, Olvena and Laus have joined the scene as local vineyard owners andwinemaking families join themodern vanguard.

Getting with the timesTo get yourself noticed in theworld of wine, especially ifyou’re relatively small, youneed to do something to standout and Somontano does thisin a number of ways.

First, there’s bashfulinnovation. Each bodega thatsprings up manages to lookmore ultra-modern than thelast, while at the same timeaccommodating functional

EACH BODEGA THATSPRINGS UP MANAGESTO LOOK MORE ULTRA-MODERN THANTHE LAST

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S WhiteOlvena Chardonnay FB 2007

Viñas del Vero Chardonnay Colección San Miguel 2004

Viñas del Vero Clarión 2006 (an impressive white blend based on Chardonnay)

Bodegas Laus Gewürztraminer 2007

Bodegas Olvena Gewürztraminer 2007

RoséEnate Cabernet Sauvignon rosé 2007

Otto Bestué Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon rosé 2007

Olvena Merlot Rosado 2007

RedsLaus Roble 2004 (a Merlot, Cabernet and Tempranillo blend)

Viñas del Vero La Miranda Garnacha 2005

Laus Tinto Crianza 2003 (Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon)

Viñas del Vero Gran Vos Reserva 2003 (an undisclosed blendof the best grapes of the vintage)

Olvena Hache 2006 (Syrah and old vine Garnacha. A goodexample of the traditional and modern grape mix)

Otto Bestué Finca Santa Sabina 2005 (a Cabernet andTempranillo blend)

Viñas del Vero Secastilla 2004 (mainly old vine Garnacha fromthe northern vineyard of the same name; a particularlyinteresting and original wine)

Enate Merlot-Merlot 2004

Blecua 2002 (mostly Cabernet with some Merlot, Garnachaand Tempranillo. An extremely fine wine and arguablySomontano’s current peak of excellence)

Smaller wineries offering good wines: Dalcamp, Sers andBodegas Meler (only available locally).

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R DOs Calatayud, Campo de Borja

and Cariñena

The three regions of Calatayud, Campo de Borja andCarineña are situated within the province of Zaragoza, to thesouth west of Somontano. These regions are all a rich sourceof Garnacha, a grape which is enjoying a renaissance inmany different areas of Spain as a new generation ofwinemakers from both Spain and overseas realize its fullpotential for both red and rosé wines. The wines from theseregions can offer great quality for their price tag, so they arewell worth looking out for.

Catalayud is the largest of the three and probably the bestknown due to the exciting developments of the last decade.These centre on the fact that this area has particularly oldGarnacha vineyards (and to a certain extent Cariñena, alsoknown as Mazuelo) and the grapes from these vineyards canmake wines with great complexity, black fruit and chocolateflavours.

The rainfall is low here and the climate is hot, but thevineyards are saved from extreme heat thanks to their highlocation which is between 500-900 metres (1,640-2,950 ft)above sea level. Producers of note include Jalón, SanAlejándro and San Gregorio Co-operative.

Campo de Borja may be much smaller by comparison, buta handful of bodegas have equipped themselves withmodern facilities and they are making good quality wines.Here too there is some fine old vine fruit to be found fromGarnacha which is flanked by Tempranillo, Mazuelo and evensome Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyards are situated to thesouth of the river Ebro where the well-drained limestone soilsare ideal for these red varieties. Producers of note includeBorsao and Santo Cristo Co-operative.

Carineña, borders Calatayud and the Huerva river runsthrough its heart before flowing into the Ebro at Zaragoza.Despite being named after the grape, Cariñena onlyrepresents around 6% of the plantings here and the region isbuilding its reputation on red wines made from Garnacha andTempranillo for the main part. Non-traditional varieties such asCabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are also playing anincreasingly important role. Styles range from young reds togran reservas and producers of note include Covinca, GranDucay and Solar de Urbezo.

SOMO

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TS · Located in the province of Huesca which lies to the south ofthe Pyrenees and to the west of Catalonia, Somontano has4,650 hectares (11,500 acres) of vineyards and is one offour wine regions within the autonomous region of Aragón.

· Nearest international airport: Barcelona (around 3 hours bycar).

· Nearest town: Barbastro, nearest city: Zaragoza

· The annual Festival Vino del Somontano takes place duringthe first week of August. The event includes a gastronomicshowcase featuring over 100 tapas.

THE BEST SOMONTANO WINES ARE CHARACTERIZEDBY ELEGANCE, REFINEDTANNINS, FRESH ACIDITY ANDRIPE FRUIT FLAVOURS

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Irrespective of size – Viñasdel Vero production capacityis 6 million bottles annuallyand whereas Otto Bestué’soutput is 324,000 – thecommon goal is premiumquality. The bodegas also sharethe challenge of getting winesmade from non-traditionalgrapes noticed. So what is the Somontano wine style?

Somontano styleIn contrast to Spanish wineregions such as Rioja, Riberadel Duero and Toro, theTempranillo grape plays aminor role in Somontano’svineyards as the varietygenerally struggles to ripen inthis coolish region although itis often included as part of theblend giving the wines their

Spanish character.The leading protagonists

for red wines are CabernetSauvignon and Merlot, withGarnacha and Syrah alsoproviding an interestingcontribution in some wines.Red wines are generally agedin oak for at least six months.Don’t expect to see much goldmesh on the bottles; the winesare presented in the samecontemporary fashion of thewineries with some basingtheir labels on the work ofmodern artists.

Red wines account for thelion’s share of the totalproduced although mostproducers offer rosé wine andwhite wines. These are usuallymade from Chardonnayalthough some impressive dry

Gewürztraminer wines havealso recently appeared.

The best Somontano winesare characterized by elegance,refined tannins, fresh acidity,balanced alcohol and ripe fruitflavours. This is achieved dueto a combination of favorablealtitude (vineyards are situatedfrom 350 to 650 metres(1,150 to 2,150 ft) above sealevel in the higher foothills of the Pyrenees), well-drainedlimestone soils, low rainfalland the all-important contrastbetween hot summer days andcooler nights which is idealfor the gradual ripening of the grapes a fresh quality inthe final wines.

Somontano’s winemakershave enjoyed a series of goodvintages: 2005 and 2006 were

two of the best of recent years and the cooler summerof 2007 resulted in aparticularly good harvestwhich bodes well for the new wines coming through –white, rosé and red. So it’s anideal time to try Somontano’swines and nothing beats avisit to the area to reallyappreciate this modern,dynamic Spanish region.

Patricia Langton is a freelancejournalist specializing in wine, winetourism and gastronomy. Her workhas appeared in a number ofpublications including Decanter,The Guardian, easyJet magazine,The Drinks Business, Wine &Spirit, Harpers and Off LicenceNews. She has also lived andworked in Spain and visits thecountry regularly.

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WHAT & WHERE TO EAT

The range of wines offers plenty of choice to match theregion’s richly diverse cuisine: hams, lamb, wild boar, rabbit,partridge, excellent locally sourced vegetables, cheese, oliveoil and truffles and mushrooms according to the season. Fishis also readily available due to an abundance of local rivers andgood accessibility to the northern coast.

Restaurante Casa Samper, 3, Calle Doña Zanca, SalasAltas; +34 974 30 21 02. A destination restaurant run byCarmen Laspuertas offering a high quality menu based onlocal specialities. Well worth seeking out and within easy reachof the Enate winery.

Restaurante Flor, 3, Calle Goya, Barbastro. A Barbastroinstitution – imaginative dishes are prepared in a modern stylefor gourmets and there’s an extensive wine list to choose from.www.restauranteflor.com

La Bodega del Vero, 13, Calle Romero, Barbastro; +34 974311 183. The Mur family runs this relaxed, friendly restaurant inthe cellars below its treasure trove of a food shop. High qualityhams, local cheeses, meat and fish dishes. (The owners alsorun the La Viña de San Julián restaurant at the ConsejoRegulador).

Pastel Biarritz Albas, 23, Calle San Ramon, Barbastro;www.pastelbiarritz.com. For traditional almond cakes.

WHERE TO STAY

Gran Hotel Ciudad de Barbastro****, 4, Plaza del Mercado,Barbastro; www.ghbarbastro.com. Open since 2003, thiscomfortable, modern hotel makes a good base for visiting thewineries and Barbastro’s restaurants and shops. Rooms startat 80¤ per night

Alodia rural house, San Gregorio, s/n, Alequézar;alodia@elmundodelregalo.com; Tel.: +34 974 318 450. Acomfortable and tastefully furnished casa de turismo in theheart of the enchanting medieval village and fortress ofAlequézar. Rooms start at 65¤ per night.

Casa Canales, 7, Plaza Mayor, Confita; www.casacanales.es.Another charming rural retreat. Bodegas Sers has renovated avineyard house to offer four rooms alongside its boutiquebodega. Rooms start at 50¤ per night.

Hostería de Guara***, 2, Calle Oriente, Bierge;www.hosteriadeguara.com. A family-run, modern hotel withineasy reach of Sierra de Guara, a popular nature reserve, whileBierge is reputed for its extra virgen olive oil. Rooms start at75¤ per night.

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WHAT TO SEE

If you’re planning to visit the region, Somontano’s administrativeseat, the Consejo Regulador, is a good place to start. Locatedat Barbastro and conveniently situated right next to the touristoffice, this former 18th century charity hospital now houses alarge circular video room, the Espacio del Vino whichshowcases all the region’s wines along with some of theregion’s finest olive oils, a restaurant and a tasting room. Theidea is that visitors come away fully briefed about the region’swines, the wine route and other aspects of interest.

The wine route, created over the last two years, is theculmination of a project jointly managed by the ConsejoRegulador and the local authorities to develop Somontano’soffering for visitors by links wineries, restaurants and hotels.

All this is relatively new in a region which is developing quicklyyet offers spectacular unspoilt Mediterranean scenery of olivegroves and almond trees mingling with vineyards with no massurban developments in sight.

For more information about Somontano’s wine route and whatto do in the region, go to: www.rutadelvinosomontano.com

Consejo Regulador de la Denominación de Origen Somontano.Avenida de la Merced, 64 22300 Barbastro – Huesca; Tel.: +34 974 313 031; e-mail: somontano@dosomontano.com;www.dosomontano.com (only in Spanish)

32 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Rated amongst the most prominent up-and-coming stars of Spain's culinary scene,chef Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz restaurant has distinguished himself for hisextensive knowledge and use of herbs and spices. Vicky Burnett meets the man anddiscusses his passion.

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ONAndoni Aduriz

SPICE

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to tune themselves in, tomake more of an effort tounderstand than has beenasked of them up until thatmoment. It’s a new tone, as if the melancholy of theproducts was emerging. It’s a tremendously subversiveexercise. Many people thinkthat what gets attention isshouting. It’s not. To whisperis subversive. I love theseplants that are melancholic,that whisper. Up until nowpeople have used them tosettle their stomach, forexample, but now they arebeing used to cook with.They don't have much? Much aroma? That’s perfectfor me.”

Recipes that test thisphilosophy abound on theMugaritz menu: five tinygnocchi made from localIdiazábal cheese, each toppedwith a single leaf – marjoram,

radish, parsley, green andpurple fennel – and billed as five different dishes in one;dark, firm betonica leaves ina soup of vegetables anddried tubors; sheep’s milkcurd with hay and toastedfern.

“There is a host of herbswe use from this region that don't have a hugepersonality. Take the dog'stooth violet. It comes outabout now and only lasts for four to five weeks. It's a plant that has more texture than aroma and,moreover, it's beautiful. The flower is in betweensweet and spicy-hot. That,for me, is very seductive. Is dog's tooth as marvellousand enticing as, say, astronger spice like pimentón?(Ed. Note- a Spanish type of paprika) Obviously not.But it has another exciting

have had a purely gastronomicrole. They have beenconnected to medicine andhealth or used as a way topreserve food. Herbs likeparsley, rosemary or thymehave such apparent aromasthat they have naturally lentthemselves to the kitchen.But those that don't havesuch a strong character aren'ttaken into considerationbeyond their medicinal use.”

It is precisely these herbsand spices, with their subtlearomas, that are enjoying a“little revolution” in hiskitchen, he says.

A cuisine ofwhispers“Mine is a ‘tepid’ cuisine, a cuisine of whispers, acuisine where I seekinsipidity in every sense.Diners at Mugaritz have

A light drizzle falls on thegreen Basque hills thatsurround the converted farm buildings that houseMugaritz and the cutting-edge kitchen of Andoni Luis Aduriz. The spring air is damp and mossy and aceiling of clouds hangs lowover fields dotted withhaystacks. It is into this lush countryside that Adurizand his team often head toforage for the wild herbs andflowers that are one of thesignatures of his cuisine.

Aduriz says he isdiscovering the culinarypotential of herbs that havebeen overlooked or whoserole has historically beenlimited to their medicinalqualities or their use as apreservative.

“Herbs and spices havemainly had a practical role in Spanish cuisine. Very few

TextVictoria Burnett

PhotosJuan Manuel Sanz/ICEX

SPAIN GOURMETOUR 35

quality, which is that youcan't get it in the market.Either I pick it or you pickit. Either I serve it to you, or you won't get to taste it at all.”In addition to what Adurizcan find in the localcountryside, he searches themarkets of the Spanish andFrench Basque region andgrows more than 100varieties of herbs, fruits andflowers in Mugaritz's kitchengarden. Last year, he planted15 different types of basiland nine kinds of strawberry.

“For me, the aromas ofplants and spices can add anaccent, a comma, canpunctuate food,” he says.“They are like little tools thatyou need to do your work. It’slike looking for words to helpyou define what you want tosay. If you only have 300words, you’re going to be

more limited in what you can say than if you have3,000. The same applies toherbs and spices. Even if youonly use them in a very small,anecdotal way, you producesomething much richer.”

Nature’s gift“But there is a difference: ifyou look for a word, you willfind it,” he says. “But if Ilook for a herb, I may notfind enough to serve to a lotof people, not enough tokeep it on the menu. So Iwork according to the plants.For example, we composed adish last year with five or sixvarieties of basil. Why?Because it was in season. Atthis time of year the dwarfelderberry bushes are aboutto flower. So we’ll gatherelderflowers and dosomething with them. Andwhen the flowers are

finished, we’ll let the fruitripen and then we’ll do thesame with the fruit. Whenthey are underripe, they arevery toxic. You have to flowcontinuously with nature.”

Nature is all around atMugaritz, from the menu thatclaims to take you closer to thenatural world to the haystacksand waxy-leafed camelliasoutside the expansive windowsof the dining room. But therich culinary promise of theBasque countryside wasn'talways evident to the 36-yearold chef, who grew up in theseaside town of San Sebastián,the Basque region's food‘Mecca’.

“When I first came here(nine years ago), I lookedaround and all I saw wasgreen. Green up there, greendown there, green allaround. But there came amoment when I began to see

distinct kinds of green –greens with different tones –and I entered into acommunion with nature.Then my perspectivechanged completely. Thecuisine we are making herewouldn’t make sense in anurban location. Both becauseof the produce we use andthe soul of the place.”

Despite his protestationsthat he is “not a botanist, buta cook who knows a tiny, tinybit,” Aduriz has clearly madeup for lost time. The earnest,bespectacled chef hascollaborated on two books on herbs, including a ratherforbidding 400-pagebotanical dictionary thatexplains the properties ofdifferent plants and theirculinary uses. He whips out a copy of the dictionary andpores over its tiny print andblack-and-white drawings.

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Spain's ownIt is perhaps Aduriz'saddiction to subtlety thatdetermines his relationshipwith the two principal spicesof the Spanish kitchen:saffron and Pimentón.Pimentón, the deep-redpowder ground from thecapsicum pepper, appears in its sweet form in typicaldishes such as paella and inits more piquant form inchorizo and sobrasada, a spicysausage. While the morerobust pimentón has a verymarginal role in Aduriz'skitchen, saffron is an evidentsource of fascination.

“Saffron has a very peculiararoma. It seduces you andyou learn it. Some spices areeasy to 'learn', like vanilla orcinnamon, but saffron takeslonger. It's one of the fewspices that has all three

fantastic characteristics:aroma, taste. On top of thisit has a magical feature – thefact it is sterile. Its survivalhas depended on its abilityto seduce mankind. Itssterility loads it withsymbolism and it is thismystique that makes it sospecial. Also, saffron is aflower. Everyone is goingcrazy these days aboutedible flowers. Well, saffronis one.”

“Spanish saffron from LaMancha is the best in theworld,” says Aduriz. “Beforethe sun comes up, womenpick the bulbs that are onthe point of opening and put them into baskets incarefully measured amountsso as to protect them fromthe light and from the air.With extraordinary skill,they separate the stigmafrom the rest of the flower.”

Grabbing a pen and paperto draw a diagram of thecrocus flower from whichsaffron is harvested, heexplains how the womentake the fresh stigma, or'green saffron', and dry it in a process known as theretostado. Manchego saffronis dried at about 90 degrees– a higher temperature thanused by other producers andkey to its flavour. Alsoimportant is the fact thatcrops are rotated every three years, he says.

To this pain-stakingprocess, Aduriz adds his own touch. He toasts thesaffron again, folded in paperand placed in the oven at130 degrees for two to threeminutes to further dehydrateit. Then he pounds it in amortar – the finer it isground, the greater theflavour, aroma and colour.

And then he leaves it forseveral hours in liquid – forexample water or milk – tofurther draw out the aroma.He dismisses a myth aboutsaffron – that it must beadded at the end of cookingotherwise it will lose itsflavour.

EndangeredsaffronBut the spice is beingundermined by cheapercompetitors from India andIran, he says, pulling out aphotograph of 20 kinds ofsaffron and explaining whatsets them apart.

“They do no rotate the crop,so the flowers are smaller.They don’t pick the flowerswith the same delicacy as inLa Mancha. They don’t drythem at the same temperature.They transport them in sacks

“FOR ME, THE AROMASOF PLANTS AND SPICESCAN ADD AN ACCENT, A COMMA, CANPUNCTUATE FOOD”

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piled up on the top of atruck. I have found beautifullittle boxes of saffron inshops that say: “The bestsaffron in the world – saffronfrom the Himalayanfoothills”. It’s false. It’s thesaffron from La Mancha,which is extraordinary, isn’tprized as it should be to thepoint that it might disappear.That hurts La Mancha and ithurts me.”

This obsession with theorigins of produce and thework that goes into cultivatingor nurturing it seems to formthe heart of Aduriz's culinaryphilosophy.

“I have the garden not only so that we can supplyourselves, but so that thechefs touch the earth. Youcan pick the phone andmake an order, and what youwant arrives, but you don’tappreciate it. You need to

touch the earth andunderstand that after four of us get together and plantthe seeds and prepareeverything carefully, therecould be a hailstorm and wecould lose everything. Or theneighbour’s dog could get inand break all the plants. Thefact something can be lostgives it greater value. We haveso much of everything thatwe’re only capable of valuingsomething when, for example,we’re at the top of a mountain,where suddenly a cup ofcoffee tastes like the best thingin the world. It’s not just thecharacteristics of the produce,but the context”.

Products and‘Alta Cocina’I ask if his desire to takediners back to nature, topresent herbs and vegetables

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Xin their freshest, cleanestforms, is contradictory withhis training at El Bulli, wherefood is deconstructed.

“It’s true that one of thethings about Bulli that mostsurprises is the technicalvirtuosity. But this virtuosityis underpinned by theproduce. One of the greatestdefendants of produce that Iknow is Ferran Adriá. Whathappens is that the technicaland conceptual ability of thisman is so important, sopowerful, so spectacular, that it eclipses everythingelse. At El Bulli too, we went out and picked wildproduce, we cooked with sea water. These weresignificant gestures towardsnature.”

“But there can only be one El Bulli. At El Bulli,natural produce has a bigrole, but technique has a

bigger one. Here, techniquehas a big role, but naturalproduce has a bigger one.Also, we’ve taken thetechnique and we’veconcealed it. For me, thetechnical flourish isn’t soimportant in itself as is what it allows me to produce – it is not the end, it is the means.What I want to do is stealsomeone’s heart, whether it’ssautéing, roasting or grilling. I want to steal their heart witha pear, and apple or caviar.The important thing is to stealyour heart.”

www.mugaritz.com

Victoria Burnett is acorrespondent for the New YorkTimes and International HeraldTribune in Madrid. Over the past13 years, she has lived andworked in Asia, the United Statesand Latin America.

38 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

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calorific and refreshing,vitamin-packed and slightlyalcoholic from the wine in thedressing, one could imagine itas perfect fuel for a cold day'swork in the country.

Las Hurdes’s cooking is trulyrustic and resourceful in its useof any and all availableingredients, and functional inits rib-sticking, heart-warmingsolidity. Like all genuinecountry food, it is an accuratereflection of the landscape thatoriginally produced it: thehurdano landscape of vegetablegardens clinging to steepterraces in the lee of deep darkvalleys, with fruit trees, olivegroves, heather-clad hillsideswith lines of beehives, andscrubby forests above themgrazed by flocks of goats.

The cook, Asunción Benítez,bustled out of the kitchen totell me how she made thecabrito cuchifrito, a specialhurdano dish of tender babygoat fried in olive oil anddressed with home-made redwine vinegar and liberaladditions of garlic and bayleaves. She brought me out aplateful together with a slab ofmatajambres (literally 'hungerkiller'), a dense olive-rich breadwith chunks of chorizo bakedinside. A traditional dish thatfeatured wheat-flour,supposedly a non-existentresource in the Hurdes of pre-modern times: could this beproof, perhaps, that Buñuel was

barking up the wrong tree? Was it even politically

correct, I wondered, tomention aloud the name of theman who had saddled LasHurdes with its unshakeablereputation for grimness?

“Oh yes; we don't mindtalking about him now. Thatgentleman did exaggerate alittle, certainly,” concededÁngel Domínguez, therestaurant's burly owner, whohad come out to stand with hiswife by my table. “But hewasn't so very wrong. When Iwas a child, there really wasn'tvery much to eat. When acrumb fell from the table, itwas a race to see who couldpick it up quickest.”

Las Hurdes has since becomea cause celèbre, governmentmoney has come in, andhurdano society has changedbeyond recognition.Pineforests, planted on amassive scale by Franco'sgovernment in a misguidedattempt to bring prosperity tothe region, replaced the ancientstands of chestnut woods thatonce provided food for pigsand human beings alike. SoAsunción’s final dish is a kindof culinary archaeology: shetakes dried chestnuts and soaksthem in milk, then mincesthem roughly with sugar andbreadcrumbs (hmm, morebread) moistened with milk.She then rolls the mixture intoballs, frying them in olive oil

and serving them dribbled withhoney. Repapados de castaña isan old-fashioned, comfortingpudding, tailor-made forwinter days like this, with amessy sleet blowing aroundoutside and the olive treestwisting their leaves in the coldwind.

“We used to make it for thefiestas, and at Christmas. Noone makes it much anymore,except for me. Well, it's a lot ofwork,” said the cook decidedly,shaking her head as shestacked up the empty plates.

Acclaimed travel and food writerPaul Richardson is the author of'Cornucopia: a gastronomic tour ofBritain' (Time Warner),'Indulgence, one man's selflesssearch for the best chocolate in theworld' (Time Warner) and 'A LateDinner: discovering the food ofSpain' (Bloomsbury). He lives inNorthern Extremadura, where hegrows his own olives, vineyards,vegetables and livestock.

As seen from the United Kingdom

Las Hurdes is a county ofExtremadura, tucked into thenorthernmost point of theregion where it borders onSalamanca. Seventy-five yearsafter Luis Buñuel made anotorious film about the place– 'Tierra Sin Pan' (LandWithout Bread, 1932) – LasHurdes is still associated inmany people's minds withhunger and poverty. In the film,children are seen goingbarefoot, with filthy faces andthe bloated bellies ofmalnourishment.

As sampled today, thetraditional food of Las Hurdesbears no evidence of such tragicextremes of poverty.

At the Hotel Los Angeles – socalled not after the Californianmega-city, but the Río LosAngeles, which races throughthe village of Vegas de Coria – Irecently stopped for lunch in ahotel restaurant that proudlyspecialises in local dishes likezorongollo (roasted red pepperscut torn into strips and dressedwith olive oil and garlic) andensalada de limón, whichdaringly combines slices oforange and lemon flesh withchorizo, both fried and boiledegg, pimentón and garlic, and adressing made with olive oiland red wine. The ensaladawould have been taken out bythe women to their menfolk inthe olive groves, and wasgenerally eaten in the morningas a late breakfast. Both highly

PAUL RICHARDSON WELCOMES YOU TOTHE HOTEL LOS ANGELES, WHERE ONECAN SAMPLE THE MANY DELIGHTS OFEATING IN THE REGION THATFILMMAKER LUIS BUÑUEL DUBBED“LAND WITHOUT BREAD”

SPAIN GOURMETOUR 39

When I launched theBallymaloe Cookery School in1983 we looked to France, Italyand even California forinspiration, but in recent yearsI find myself increasinglyblown away by the Spanishfood scene.

Spain’s avant garde chefs areleading the way in a culinaryrevolution that is rocking thefood world and has becomeknown as moleculargastronomy. The ‘high priest’ ofthis movement is Ferran Adrià,a truly brilliant young chefwhose restaurant El Bulli hasbecome a place of pilgrimagefor chefs, food lovers and‘restaurant collectors’ all overthe world. People flock from allover the world to worship atthis shrine. To secure a bookingin the restaurant is theequivalent of a win in the lotto.Rumour has it that El Bulli isbooked solid for four or fiveyears. The restaurant getshundreds of thousands ofrequests for a table each yearbut can only accept 8,000.

My first encounter with Adriàwas at Tasting Australia in2004. He dazzled the crowdwith his alchemy, when hemade jellies, foams, mousses,soufflés and I can’t rememberwhat else with water alone. Hetold us about his laboratoryand his new toys, including aPacojet, Thermomix,Dehydrator and a variety ofsolutions including liquidnitrogen. To me, he soundedlike an over-excited little boy

with a new chemistry set. Therewas no mention of flavour,everything was about trickynew textures and smacked ofthe emperor’s new clothes.

But that was before I tastedhis food. The first realization isthat nothing is ever as it seems. A green olive on a tiny plateturns out to be a little bubble of olive juice that bursts in yourmouth with a delicious essence of olive. A meltingly tendermussel is suspended in anotherbubble with a whiff of freshlime juice. What looks like fishroe is actually little beads oflychee juice which have beenmade by injecting little dropletsof a lychee solution into liquidnitrogen through a syringe. Agin and tonic sorbet is made inseconds with dry ice, an oysteron the half shell is decoratedwith a tiny pearl of liquidsmoky bacon flavour… asdelicious as it was surprising.

Since then, the annualGastronomic Summit MadridFusión is the highlight of myculinary year. I have attendedin 2005 and 2007 and comehome with my head swirlingwith ideas and hithertounimaginable concepts to passon to my readers in the IrishExaminer and my students inthe Ballymaloe Cookery School.Movers and shakers from allover the world join the topSpanish chefs to share theirgenius in the kitchen. Over a 3day period I watch amazingchefs do wild and exotic things.

Daniel Garcia and Paco

Roncero, for instance, do magicwith olive oil. Daniel, of Calimarestaurant in Marbella, sprayedArbequina olive oil from a foamcontainer into the liquidnitrogen in a polystyrene box:the result was olive oil popcornwhich he served with a dice oftomato, tiny croutons andmicro greens. For his next trickhe put a stainless steel dish ontop of the liquid nitrogen andpoured extra virgin olive oilmade from Picual olives ontothe tray. It froze into a sheet andthen cracked into flakes whichlooked like white chocolatewafers. These were served withslices of apple, lychee puree andviolet flowers, anchovycarpaccio with flakes of oliveoil.

Paco Roncero, from El Casinoin Madrid, in turn, showed ushow to make spaghetti out ofolive oil, through a syringe intoiced water. This evolved intoravioli made from olive oilwhich doesn’t melt. He filled itwith a cauliflower puree,browned it with a blow torchand served it with salmoncaviar on spoons. Finally, headded honey water to the oliveoil, whizzed it in theThermomix and hey prestothere were gum drops which hecoated with citrus zest andsugar. By now I was deeplysceptical but Paco had madeone for everyone in theaudience, both texture andflavour were absolutelydelicious.

Other highlights included

Heston Blumenthal, UK ‘s mostfamous proponent of moleculargastronomy, going on a flight offancy about recreating thechildhood memories of a ‘kidin a candy shop’, Sydney’sTetsuya Wakuda making anolive oil and Ibérico hamlollypop, or US super chefCharlie Trotter speaking of theimportance of organic produce.

Chefs like these havestretched the boundaries of‘accepted’ gastronomy, forcingus to let go of our preconceivednotions. And for interestedfood lovers, Spain is definitelywhere it’s at present. However,the reality is that much of theexperimental moleculargastronomy, sublime as it maybe, is not the kind of food thatyou or I will be cookinganytime soon. All the morereason why I can’t wait to see what MadridFusión 2008 has in store forme. While I wait, I’ll nibble afew slivers of Bellota Ibéricoham, another Spanishcontribution and my favouritefood in the whole wide world.

P.S.: The last edition ofMadrid Fusión was held from21st till 24th January 2008.

Darina Allen is the owner of theBallymaloe Cookery School inShanagarry, Co Cork, Ireland. She isa teacher, food writer, newspapercolumnist, cookbook author andtelevision presenter. Her school issituated on an organically run farm.

As seen from Ireland

AS THE OWNER OF A COOKING SCHOOLDARINA ALLEN DOES HER BEST TO STAYON TOP OF WHAT’S COOKING IN THEGLOBAL KITCHEN. SOME OF THE BEST,SHE FINDS, IS ON SHOW IN SPAIN

PhotosToya Legido/ICEX

RECIPESNino Redruello is among themost important exponents ofthe fine tradition of Basque cuisine in Madrid. Born andraised in the restaurant businessunder the tutelage of his epony-mous uncle, he took charge ofthe family restaurant, La Ancha,in early 2007. Before that, Ninospent many years working hisway up in the restaurant beforeopening Las Tortillas de Gabino,his own venture, together withhis brother. Las Tortillas tookMadrid by storm, offeringadventurous takes on the classic Spanish omelet. At La Ancha, placed alongsidethe Spanish Parliament and a favorite haunt of many aSpanish politician he has contin-ued to serve the classic fare thathave made it famous (its lentilsoup is a legend in Madrid).

La Ancha, C/Zorrilla, 7. Madrid. Tel: +34 914 298 186

La Ancha II, C/Príncipe de Vergara,204. Madrid. Tel: +34 914 298 186

Las Tortillas de Gabino, C/ RafaelCalvo, 20. Madrid. Tel: +34 913 197 505 www.lastortillasdegabino.com

(Advance booking essential in all three)Las Tortillas also offers cooking courses.

SPRING

42 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

ARTICHOKESWITH ALMONDS (Alcachofas conalmendras)

1. Peel the artichokes untilonly the heart is left.

2. Bring a large potfull of waterto the boil, add lemon juiceand a tablespoon of olive oil

3. Add the artichokes, boiluntil tender. Drain and keep1/2 cup of the stock.

4. Chop the garlic and fry ittogether with most of thealmonds (keep a few todecorate later) in a tablespoonof olive oil.

5. When golden, add the flour,stir and fry for a further 2minutes.

6. Add 1/2 cup artichoke stockand the milk, season to taste.

7. Simmer for 15 minutes andtake off heat.

8. Place artichokes in an ovenproof dish. Pour sauce overthem and grate Tetilla over it.

9. Place under a hot grill untilgolden. Sprinkle remainingalmonds on top.

SERVES 4

PREPARATION TIME 1 hour

DIFFICULTY Medium

INGREDIENTS12 to 16 artichokes (depending on size)Extra Virgin olive oil1 clove of garlic1 cup blanched Marconaalmonds3 1/4 tbsps all-purpose flour1/2 cup milk30 gr (1 oz) Tetilla cheese

REGIONAL

RED MULLET ANDSQUID STEW (Marmitako desalmonete de roca y calamares)

SERVES 4

PREPARATION TIME 1 hour DIFFICULTY Medium

INGREDIENTS400 gr (14 oz) whole redmullets200 gr (7 oz) squid1 1/2 onion1 clove garlic1/2 green pepper1/2 red pepper1 1/2 leek3 potatoes2 soupspoons choriceropepper paste1 carrotParsley

1. Fillet the red mullets, cleanthem of bones and cut intosmaller pieces. Reserve the bones.

2. Roughly chop 1 leek, 1 onionand 1 carrot.

3. Make a stock by placing thered mullet bones and choppedvegetables in a deep pan. Coverwith water. Add a sprig of parsleyand boil for 30 minutes.

4. Thinly chop the remainingonion and leek, the garlic and thepeppers. Gently fry in 1 tbsp oliveoil. While they become soft, peeland dice the potatoes.

5. Add the potatoes and thechoricero pepper paste when thevegetables are soft. Season withsalt and pepper.

6. Pour red mullet stock untilwell covered. Boil until thepotatoes are soft.

7. Meanwhile, dice the squid andfry in olive oil over high heat untilgolden.

8. When the potatoes are almostready, add the squid and redmullet pieces. Boil for 1 minuteand serve immediately.(Alternatively, prepare the dishwithout the squid and red mulletin advance. Bring to the boilminutes before serving, add thefish and serve)

TRADITIONAL

BAKED POTATOAND TORTA DELCASARCROQUETTES (Croquetas depatata asada y Tortadel Casar)

1. Wrap each potato in tinfoil and bake in the oven athigh heat until cookedthrough.

2. Peel and mash into a paste.Mix in the cream, Torta delCasar cheese and season withsalt and pepper. Cool in thefridge.

3. Once cold, roll the mixtureinto small balls or cylinders.

4. Beat the eggs. Coat eachball in flour, then in egg, andfinally in breadcrumbs.

5. Fry in abundant oil untilgolden. Reheat in the ovenbefore serving if necessary.

6. Serve with the rocket, dres-sed in vinegar and oil withchopped almonds sprinkledon top.

SERVES 4

PREPARATION TIME 50 min

DIFFICULTY Easy

INGREDIENTSFor the croquettes:200 gr (7 oz) potatoes 100 gr (3 1/2 oz) Torta delCasar cheese, 100 gr (3 1/2 oz) double cream Salt White Pepper 2 1/2 cups breadcrumbs1 cup all-purpose flour2 eggs

For the side salad:100 gr (3 1/2 oz) rocket 2 tbsps Marcona almonds Extra Virgin olive oilBalsamic vinegar or old sherryvinegar

VEGETARIAN

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AVOCADO ANDPINE NUT DIP (Cazuela deaguacate ypiñones)

SERVES 4 (AS A SNACK)

PREPARATION TIME 20 min

DIFFICULTY Easy

INGREDIENTS2 avocados1 1/2 tsps honey 2 spring onions 1/2 apple (Golden delicious) 50gr (1 3/4 oz) farmer cheese 30 gr (1 oz) Spanish pine nutsSalt White pepperSherry vinegar

FINGER FOOD

1. Chop the spring onionsvery fine and set aside.

2. Dice the apple, and the cheese

3. Open up the avocados andspoon out the flesh. Mashwith a fork, add the honey, agenerous helping of olive oiland a dash of vinegar. Blendit all in.

4. Add the apple, the cheeseand the spring onion. Mixwell.

5. Fry the pine nuts in olive oil.

6. Spread some of theavocado mix on thin pieces of toast or crackers andsprinkle pine nuts on top, or serve in a bowl as a dip.

46 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

GRAPE JUICEWITHCUCUMBERAND BLACKARAGONOLIVES (Mosto de uva con pepino yaceituna de Aragón)

1. Peel and dice the cucumber.

2. Skewer a piece of cucumberand an olive on a stick.

3. Pour juice into glasses andplace the skewer inside.

SERVES 4

PREPARATION TIME 5 min

DIFFICULTY Easy

INGREDIENTSGrape juice4 black Aragón olives1 cucumber

TEN MINUTE TAPA

SPAIN GOURMETOUR 47

1. Pour the milk into a pan,add the lemon and cinnamonand place over medium heat.

2. When it begins to boil, addthe rice and lower the heat.Simmer gently for 35 minutes.

3. Take off the heat, add thesugar and stir it in. Then addthe cream, stir in and setaside to cool.

4. Chop the fruit into smallpieces. Mix and dress withthe lemon juice and honey.

5. To serve, pour somepudding into a bowl, spoonsome fruit on top and decoratewith the spearmint leaves.

SERVES 4

PREPARATION TIME 45 min

DIFFICULTY Easy

INGREDIENTSFor the rice pudding:3/4 cup rice2 pints full-fat milk14 tbsps sugar250 gr ( 9 oz) whipping cream(35% fat)1 stick of cinnamonPeel of 1 lemon

FRUIT ‘TARTARE’WITH SPANISHRICE PUDDING (Tartar de frutas conarroz con leche)

DESSERT

For the fruit Tartare:75 gr (2 1/2 oz) Mango75 gr (2 1/2 oz) pineapple75 gr (2 1/2 oz) melon1 1/2 tsps honey1 tbsp lemon juiceSpearmint

48 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

ARTICHOKES WITH ALMONDS Wine MANZANILLA LA GITANAVarietals Palomino FinoOrigin D.O. Jerez-Manzanilla deSanlúcarWinery Bodegas HidalgoDescription Sherry is surely one of themost misunderstood types of wine in theworld: instead of being appreciated asone of the greatest, most versatile, mostunique and most affordable enologicaltreasures, the mention of sherry hasundeservedly become associated to sweetafter-dinner tipple. This pale-coloured,bone-dry Manzanilla, is a typical exampleof how different sherry can be from that.The smell of almonds and fresh bakerydominates this very aromatic wine, andit's refreshing taste has a pleasant touchof salt and of bitterness, which give wayto the taste of herbs and raw almondsduring its long, refined finish. Why this wine? This tasty and fresh dish,with a hint of bitterness from the almonds,is slightly complex to match, so I doubtedbetween two options, this Manzanilla or anaged Cava. The matching aromas ofalmonds highlight their flavour and thesaltiness and herbs are pleasantlyrefreshing between mouthfuls.

RED MULLET AND SQUID STEW Wine CHIVITE COLECCIÓN 125CHARDONNAY 2004Varietal ChardonnayOrigin D.O. NavarraWinery Bodegas Julián ChiviteDescription Attractive lemony andslightly golden colour. Complex andintense on the nose, apples rise over abuttery background with roasted andaniseed hints. Pleasantly fruity in tastewith a good structure and very goodacidity. The long finish reveals a touch of oak, the fruit of its barrel aging. Why this wine? This wine, without adoubt one of Spain’s best, mostinteresting barrel-fermentedChardonnays, is sure to please. I chooseit based on the leading role of the redmullet and squid in the dish, since thewine contributes freshness and a densitythat combines the flavours of the dishwithout drowning them out.

BAKED POTATO ANDTORTA DEL CASARCROQUETTESWine HÉCULA 2005Varietal MonastrellOrigin D.O. YeclaWinery Bodegas CastañoDescription This very Mediterraneanwine has a dark, black cherry colour,revealing its beefy nature. Even theslightest whiff reveals intense fruit,especially blackberries and raspberries.Closer examination shows it to bepeppery and spicy, with a hint of flowers. On the tongue, it is and meaty with agood acidity, with a great deal offruitiness and a pleasant, fresh finish. Why this wine? The cheese in the dishmakes the choice of a young, fruity red a sensible choice. This red, particularly, is not too full-bodied to drown out thetaste, but its Mediterranean character andthe fruit it packs lends a sweetness and a certain hint of liquor that go very wellwith the cheese.

WINEMARRIAGE

SPAIN GOURMETOUR 49

Award- winning sommelier María José Huertas has developed her whole career atMichelin-starred Madrid restaurant La Terraza del Casino. She was among the firstfemale sommeliers to leave the official school in the Madrid Chamber of Commerce andjoin one of the top restaurants in the Spanish capital, where she has now spent ten yearsfinding the best wines to accompany the creative cuisine of head chef and Ferrán Adriáprotegé Paco Roncero.

"When you begin to 'marry' wines to food" María José says "you soon find that, for everydish, there tends to be at least four or five wines that are a particularly good match. Youchoose those according to the tastes, textures and aromas of the dish, finding wines thatwill not drown any of the subtleties out and will bring a little something extra to the mixthat will make it special. But the only way to get it just right is to find out about thepersonal taste and preferences of the client, so that you'll make the perfect selection outof the wines that initially come to mind. I therefore like to chat a little about thefavourite wines of a client before I suggest one for the meal. Since I can't quiz youreaders, in my choices here I have favoured wines that I find particularly interestingmyself and that are, on occasion, a little daring".

La Terraza del Casino, Alcalá 15-3 E laterraza@casinodemadrid.es ; www.casinodemadrid.es

YOUR SOMMELIER IS… MARÍA JOSÉ HUERTAS

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GRAPE JUICE WITHCUCUMBER AND BLACKARAGON OLIVES Wine JUVE & CAMPS RESERVA DE LAFAMILIA 2004Varietals Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel·loOrigin D.O. CavaWinery Juvé & CampsDescription Dedication and care for thevine shine through in this Cava. It is agran reserva, having spent, on average, 42 months aging in the bottle. Lightgolden in color, it has fine rising bubblesand a persistent crown. The aroma offresh apples dominates, flanked byfreshly baked bread and some toastednotes. Fresh and velvety, with a long,elegant and slightly bitter finish.Why this wine? Cava is a wonderfulappetizer, so it is an easy choice for thisdish. I would first have the grape juiceand the brochette, followed by the Cava,which will refresh and clean the palate.

AVOCADO AND PINE NUT DIPWine PAZO SE SEÑORÁNSSELECCIÓN DE AÑADA 2002-2003Varietal AlbariñoOrigin D.O. Rías BaixasWinery Pazo de SeñoránsDescription Pale yellow with glints ofgolden. Complex and interesting on thenose, with mineral, floral and fruityaromas rising above the subtle smell offennel and aromatic herbs. Dense andsilky, with a pleasant sharpness and along and fruity finish.Why this wine? This succulent tapacalls for a wine that has a touch of agingand a certain aromatic likeness to itsingredients. We therefore highlight theflavours in the dish, complement themwith the complexity of the wine and, to top it off, refresh our mouth betweenbites with its crispness.

FRUIT ‘TARTARE’ WITH SPANISH RICE PUDDINGWine PX ETIQUETA DOBLE 1960Varietals Pedro XiménezOrigin D.O. Montilla-MorilesWinery Toro AlbaláDescription Black pearl colour withglints of topaz. Subtle yet fragrant: wecan find the smell of ripe grapes, prunes,coffee and liquorice. The first burst offlavour in the mouth brings the fruitforward balanced by a well judgedacidity, then eases away until the longfinish reveals coffee and liquorice. Why this wine? A great number ofsweet wines would suit this dish, but I always like to recommend the gemsthat are the wines of Jerez and Montilla-Moriles, always full of nuancesand complexity. In this case, the PedroXiménez will bring new flavours to thedish, the slight acidity will compensatethe sweetness while complementing thefruit and the almost infinite finishprolongs the pleasure of its taste.

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WINEMARRIAGE

MANZANILLA LA GITANA

UK - RSP: £6.99Available nationwide at MajesticWine, Sainsbury’s, Somerfield,Tesco, Threshers, Waitrose, andmost major wine stockists.

IRELAND - RSP: ¤13.25

Donnybrook Fair 89 Morehampton Road,Donnybrook, Dublin 4Tel.: 01 668 3556www.donnybrookfair.ie

James Nicholson WineMerchant27 A Killyleagh street, Crossgar, Co. DownTel.: 1890 667799www.jnwine.com

Roundwood Food & WineMain St., Roundwood, Co. WicklowTel.: 087 762 10 33

JUVE & CAMPS RESERVADE FAMILIA

UK- RSP: £27.50Laymont & ShawThe Old Chapel - Millpool, Truro,Cornwall TR1 1EXTel.: 018 7227 0545www.laymont-shaw.co.uk

IRELAND - RSP: ¤24.95

James Redmond & Sons Ltd.25 Ranelagh, Dublin 6Tel.: 01 496 0552www.redmonds.ie

Sweenys117 Philipsburgh Avenue, Dublin 7www.sweenys.ie

PAZO SEÑORÁNSSELECCIÓN AÑADA

UK - RSP: £27Gauntleys of Nottingham4 High St., Nottingham NG1 2ET Tel.: 01 159 110 555James Nicholson WineMerchantwww.jnwine.comPhilglas & SwiggotLondon SW11, W1 and Richmondwww.philglas-swiggot.com

IRELAND - RSP: ¤20-2264 Wine64 Glasthule Road, Sandycove, Co. Dublinwww.64wine.comHarvey NicholsDundrum Town Centre, Sandyford Rd., Dublin 16www.harveynichols.com

CHIVITE 125

UK- RSP: £19.99Selfridges & Co. London, Birmingham and Manchester storeswww.selfridges.comWaitroseAvailable at stores nationwidewww.waitrose.com

IRELAND - RSP: ¤37.99Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; McCabes Off-Licence, MountMerrion Ave; Sweeney’s OffLicence, Glasnevin; and all good off-licences

where to buy

TORO ALBALÁ PXETIQUETA DOBLE 1960

UK - RSP: £85Moreno WinesTel.: 020 7286 0678www.morenowinedirect.com

IRELAND - RSP: SUBJECT TOORDER

Moreno WinesAvailable by mail orderTel.: +44 020 7286 0678www.morenowinedirect.com

HÉCULA

UK - RSP: £6.99Avery’s wine merchantAvery Bristol shop, 9 Culver Street,Bristol BS1 5LDwww.averys.comTelegraph Wineswww.telegraphwine.co.uk

IRELAND - RSP: ¤11

Karwig Wines Kilnagleary, Carrigaline, Co. CorkTel: 021 437 2864www.karwigwines.ie

Le CaveauMarket Yard, KilkennyTel.: 056 775 2166www.lecaveau.ie

SPAIN GOURMETOUR 51

Units 17-18 Cumberland BusinessPark17 Cumberland AvenueLondon NW10 7RTTel.: 020 8965 7274www.productsfromspain.co.uk

Selfridges400 Oxford StreetLondon W1A 1ABTel.: 020 7629 1234For other locations visit:www.selfridges.co.uk

Villandry Foodstore170 Great Portland StreetLondon W1W 5QBTel.: 020 7631 3131www.villandry.com

SOUTH-EASTAngela´s DelicatessenThe SquareYarmouthIsle of Wight PO41 ONSTel: 01983 761 196

Food for Thought 4 High StreetBembridgeIsle of Wight PO35 5SDTel.: 01983 873 555

SOUTH-WESTA Basket for All Seasons10 Church StreetNewent Gloucestershire, GL181PPTel.: 01531 822 940

Paxton & Whitfield1 John StreetBathSomerset BA1 2JLTel.: 01225 466 403www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

Wellswood Village Pantry11 Ilsham RoadTorquayDevon TQ1 2JGTel.: 1803 292 315

EASTHeathers & Meadows FineFoods81 High StreetHoddesdonHertfordshire, EN11 8TLTel.: 01992 462 113

The Food Company86 London Road, Marks TeyColchesterEssex, CO6 1EDTel.: 01206 214 000www.thefoodcompany.co.uk

Byfords Delicatessen1-3 Shirehall Plain HoltNorfolk NR25 6BG Tel.: 01263 713 520

Picnic Fayre DelicatessenThe Old ForgeCley-next-the-seaNorfolk NR25 7APTel: 01263 740 587www.picnic-fayre.co.uk

WEST MIDLANDSCeci Paolo: The New Cook´sEmporium21 High StreetLedburyHerefordshire HR8 1DSTel: 01531 632 976www.cecipaolo.com

Paxton & Whitfield13 Wood StreetStratford-upon-AvonWarwickshire CV3 76JFTel: 01789 415 544www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

YORKSHIRE & THE HUMBERFine Food Theatre16 Market PlaceMalton North Yorkshire YO17 7LX Tel: 01653 696 563www.finefoodtheatre.co.uk

Haley & Clifford43 Street LaneLeedsWest Yorkshire LS8 1AP Tel: 01132 370 334

Lewis & Cooper Ltd92 High StreetNorthallertonNorth Yorkshire DL7 8PP Tel: 01609 772 880 For other locations visit:www.lewisandcooper.co.uk

The Ginger Pig 11, Market PlacePickeringNorth Yorkshire YO18 7AA Tel: 01751 477211 For locations in London visit:www.thegingerpig.co.uk

NORTH- WESTGranthams Fine Food & Wine68 Heyes LaneAlderley EdgeCheshire SK9 7HY Tel: 01625 583 286 www.granthamsfinefood.com

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UNITED KINGDOMENGLAND

LONDONBrindisa9B Weir RoadLondon SW 12 OLTTel.: 020 8772 1600For other locations visit:www.brindisa.com

Fortnum and Mason181 Picadilly London W1A 1ERTel.: 020 7734 8040www.fortnumandmason.co.uk

García and Sons248-250 Portobello RoadLondon W11 1LLTel.: 020 7221 6119tony@garciaportobello.fsnet.co.uk

Harvey Nichols Food Market109-125 Knightsbridge (5th Floor)London SW1X 7RJTel.: 020 7235 5000For other locations visit:www.harveynichols.com

Jeroboams51 Elizabeth StreetLondon SW1W 9PBTel.: 020 7730 8108For other locations visit:www.jeroboams.co.uk

La Fromagerie30 Highbury ParkLondon N5 2AATel.: 020 7539 7440For other locations visit:www.lafromagerie.co.uk

Lidgate110 Holland Park AvenueLondon W11 4UATel.: 020 7727 8243

Mortimer and Bennett33 Turnham Green TerraceLondon W4 1RGTel.: 020 8995 4145www.mortimerandbennett.co.uk

Partridge´s2-5 Duke of York SquareSloane square London SW3 4LYTel.: 020 7730 7102For other locations visit:www.partridges.co.uk

Paxton & Whitfield93 Jermyn StreetLondon SW1Y 6JETel.: 020 7930 0259www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

Products from Spain

Find Spanish productsnear you

52 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Fothergills Delicatessen141 Rathmines Road UpperRathmines, Dublin 6Tel.: 01 496 2511

Get FreshUnit 6, Rosemount ShoppingCenterMarian Road, BallyroanRathfarnham, Dublin 14Tel.: 01 493 7148

Listons 25/26 Lower Camden StreetDublin 2Tel.: 01 405 4779

Magill’s Delicatessen14 Clarendon StreetDublin 2Tel.: 01 671 3830

Morton & Son15-17 Dunville AvenueRanelagh, Dublin 6Tel: 01 497 1254www.mortons.ie

Sheridan’s Cheesemongers11 South Anne StreetDublin 2Tel.: 01 679 3143For other locations visit:www.sheridanscheesemongers.com

The Gourmet Shop48 Highfield RoadRathgar, Dublin 6Tel.: 01 497 0365www.gourmetshop.ie

NATIONWIDECoopers Fine FoodsMarket SquareNavan, Co. MeathTel.: 046 907 5275www.coopersfinefoods.ie

Sheridans Cheesemongers14-16 Churchyard StreetGalwayTel.: 091 564 829

Sheridans Cheese CounterArdkeen Quality Food StoreDunmore RoadWaterfordTel.: 051 874 620www.sheridanscheesemongers.com

Urru Culinary Store BrandonThe Mill, McSwiney Quay Bandon, Co Cork Tel.: 023 54731 www.urru.ie

Online shopping from Irelandwww.wineandtapas.com

WALESFoxy's Deli7 Royal Buildings, Victoria RoadPenarthSouth Glamorgan CF64 3ED Tel: 029 2025 1666 For other locations visit:www.foxysdeli.com

SCOTLANDClive RamsayHenderson StreetBridge of AllanStirling FK9 4HRTel: 01786 893 903www.cliveramsay.com

Heart Buchanan380 Byres RoadGlasgowLanarkshire G12 8AR Tel: 01413 347 626 www.heartbuchanan.co.uk

Relish 6 Commercial Street (Leith)EdinburghMidlothian EH6 6JA Tel: 01314 761 920

The Gourmet's Lair8 Union StInvernessInverness-Shire IV1 1PL Tel: 01463 225 151www.gourmetslair.co.uk

Valvona & Crolla19 Elm RowEdinburgh EH7 4AATel: 01315 566 066www.valvonacrolla.co.uk

IRELAND

DUBLINCavistons Food Emporium58/59 Glasthule RoadSandycoveCo. DublinTel.: 01 280 9120www.cavistons.com

Evergreen 34 Wexford StreetDublin 2Tel: 01 478 5265

Fallon and Byrne11/17 Exchequer StreetDublin 2,Tel.: 01 472 1010www.fallonandbyrne.com

Editor-in-chiefCathy Boirac

Editorial coordinationEtnín C.B.Saúl Aparicio HillIria González Panizo

JournalistsSaúl AparicioVictoria BurnettPatricia LangtonElizabeth Nash

Design and Art DirectionEstudio Manuel Estrada

Photo ArchiveMabel Manso

CoverJuan Manuel Sanz

Colour SeparationsRastercolor

PrintersAltair Quebecor Ibérica

AdvertisingUK: Essential Media Contact: Jane Robbins Tel: +44 (0) 20 761 108 09IRELAND: MBG Advertising & Marketing Ltd.Contact: Bob McMahonwww.mbg.ieTel: +353 (0) 1 637 3968SPAIN: CedisaContact: Esmeralda CapelTel: (+34) 913 080 644

D.L.: M.45.307-1990

NIPO705-08-041-6

ISSN: 0214-2937

PublisherICEXState Secretariat for Trade and Tourismspaingourmetour@icex.es

The opinions expressed by the authors ofthe articles are not necessarily shared bythe Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade(ICEX), which cannot be held responsiblefor any omissions or errors in the text.

For more information on Spanishproducts contact your nearest SpanishComercial Office:

Dublin Office Tel. +353 (0) 1 661 63 13Email: Dublín@mcx.es;

London Office Tel. +44 (0) 20 746 72 330Email: londres@mcx.es

And for more information on tourism toSpain see: www.spain.info

All rights reserved

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Fictional foods.Virtual wines.Digital gastronomy.Imaginary journeys.

That’s not what you’ll find inour magazine.We’ll showyou succulent fruits, tendervegetables, astonishingwines, delicious dishes andfascinating places.Genuinesensations, lived and felt ina real country.

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