uk circumnavigation 2015 emily ruffle
TRANSCRIPT
UK Circumnavigation 2015 Emily Ruffle
• 2400 nautical miles
• 64 Days on Board
• 104 Night hours
• 24 Volunteers
• 26 Competent crew
• 8 Superb Skippers
• Umpteen Gannets, Hundreds of Dolphins and Seals, a handful of Puffins,
• 1 Loch Ness Monster?
This summer, Thermopylae Clipper (the Discovery Sailing Project's largest yacht a 60ft Colvic Clipper)
circumnavigated the UK. The voyage took nine weeks starting on the 5th July. With nothing set in
stone apart from the nine key ports for crew change, the rest of the voyage was open to the
elements. As always the crew was as diverse as ever, travelling from all corners of the UK and
further afield. Adults, Scouts, Explorers, School groups, beginners to ‘olde sea dawgs’ came to enjoy
a week’s sailing!
Leg 1:
Hamble – Yarmouth – Cherbourg – Alderney Race – Guernsey – Dartmouth – Plymouth
Leg 1 was an all adult crew
a week of marmalade
sandwiches, French cuisines
and ice cream. On 6th
July
we set off from Yarmouth at
5.45am, catching the tide
round the Needles before
crossing the channel. We
were making good progress
but with the wind against
tide it didn’t make for the
most comfortable journey.
To my surprise we didn’t
pass many ships but we did
have a low flying helicopter
circle us before flying away.
By midday the wind had dropped and we resorted to the iron sail. When one of the crew cried
“what’s that in the water!” a mysterious unidentified object was floating about 200m away. Skipper
Rob Read grabbed the binoculars and jumped to the challenge. We turned Thermo round to
investigate. We were all set in the man over board positions boat hook at the ready! As we
approached this mysterious white object we were all guessing at what it could be “a new fender!” “a
body!” “Abandoned drugs haul! Is this what the helicopter was looking for?” As we got closer we
burst into laughter as the white pillow floated aimlessly past. Excitement over, we carried on our
way.
In Cherbourg we moored on a floating pontoon, the crew were busy dressing the boat and pumping
the dinghy. Before the dinghy was lowered into the water the clear instructions were “do not let go
of the painter”; before we knew it the dinghy had floated off with the painter still in a firm grip.
Panic broke out “quick the boat hook!” it was too late we were stranded! Quick thinking from one
of the crew as they asked to borrow the neighbouring boats dinghy and quickly rowed off to catch
the runaway.
Onwards to Dartmouth, as the early morning sun bounced off the sea, we were briefly greeted by
our first glimpse of dolphins.
Malcolm wasn’t bothered!
Leg 2:
Plymouth – Fowey – Penzance – Padstow – Lundy – Milford Haven
Figure 1 Padstow early morning flakes
Figure 2 Fog off Lands end
Figure 3 Padstow crew photo and Andy's Birthday
Leg 2 was a week of contrasts, pushing our moral and stamina to the edge. Thermopylae went from
a boat full to just five crew members. The weather was not in our favour and a short journey from
Plymouth to Fowey turned into monster of a journey. Finally mooring in Fowey at 3am we managed
to scrape four hours sleep, before leaving at 8am to catch the tide to Penzance. The neighbouring
yachts were astounded to wake up and
find us moored next to them. Still in
high spirits, we donned on the second
pair of oilies (the first pair were now
soaked through). We left for Penzance
excited to see the stunning Cornish and
Devonshire coast line. The weather had
not improved and the thick fog
encroached us. Why don’t postcards
ever show the real thing? After sailing
all through the night, we treated
ourselves to fresh Cornish pasties from
the butchers.
Padstow was a busy hub of day trippers.
We were able to chill out and enjoy the sunshine celebrating Andy’s Birthday over dinner, cake and a
Cornish ice cream. Lundy was to be the next stop. Anchoring off the eastern side of the island we
spent the day exploring the cliffs, on the lookout for “flying penguins” (aka puffins) and seals.
Leg 3: Milford Haven – Wicklow – Dun Laoghaire – Ardglass – Bangor – Donaghadee
Leg 3 the invasion of Bicester sea
scouts, Thermoplyae was full to the
brim with 16 on board. Due to
weather warnings out in the Irish
sea, we spent Monday in Milford
Haven. Utilising the time, the scouts
were kept busy with Comp
Crew activities and dinghy races. Not
forgetting the frequent trips to the
local ice cream parlour.
After a tough crossing and a brief
stop at Wicklow, we were able to
enjoy some shore leave at Dun
Laoghaire and Ardglass. Ardglass
was a stunning little marina with
two resident seals swimming
amongst the boats. The entrance
was incredibly narrow and only at
low tide you saw the reality of the
challenge we had achieved. The
scouts spent the evening playing
football and cards while the
afterguard found the local pub.
The bubbles hadn’t even settled in our Guinness when we were invited to join the
local pub quiz. Not wanting to disappoint and refuse this kind gesture, we picked up our glasses and
sat down to business. After numerous rounds and devouring snacks the final scores came in we had
come second… to last.
Leg 4:
Donaghadee – Glenarm – CampbellTown – Tarbert – Port Bannatyne Bute – Largs – Troon
Leg 4 the Irish Donaghadee sea scouts
were on board and the “Chippie
Marathon” was about to get serious.
The week started off damp and dreary
as we sailed north to Glenarm. The
original plan of visiting Islay and Oban
changed due to the weather front north
of Ireland the decision was made to
take refuge in the calmer waters on the
eastern side of Mull of Kintyre.
We all enjoyed a morning well spent in
Campbelltown, practising rope throwing
and coiling, before venturing north to
Tarbert. Scotland did not disappoint, as
we past Arran, Goatfell broke through
the clouds. Putting their new boat
handling sail trimming skills into
practice we raced the other yachts up
the Kilbrannon Sound.
The sea scouts not content with the CD
selection on Thermo all chipped in to
buy the latest “Now 91” album. With
the sun beating and house music blaring
the scout leader Alvin had to seek
sanctuary below. Even Malcolm had a
boogie up on deck in his shades.
However this is Scotland and the weather wasn’t going to stay perfect. Looking to find somewhere
sheltered for lunch we decide to pick up a bouy off Port Bannatyne. One of the scouts cries
“Submarine!” amongst the chaos of flaking the main, losing a boat hook and making tomato and
basil pasta we get a glimpse of the submarine and pilot vessel.
Leg 5: Troon – Ardrishaig – Crinan Canal – Crinan –
Corpach – Neptunes Staircase – Caledonian Canal – Fort Augustus – Inverness
Leg 5 the week it not only rained but it poured (and Clive Fisher
was the only one sensible enough to pack an umbrella). The
Sunday evening was spent meeting the new crew and
celebrating Vikki Biggs 21st
Birthday.
We were stormbound in Troon Monday and Tuesday. To make
the most of the time we brushed up on our knots over a hot
chocolate in the pub and a private tour of the Troon RNLI
lifeboat and station.
After a breath-taking sail through the firth of Clyde past Arran,
we joined the Crinan Canal at Ardrishaig. The crew quickly had
to learn how to
tackle the locks. The
Crinan Canal has a
total of 15 Locks a
warm up for the
Caledonian. The best
quote of the day was
“what course should
I steer?”
Crinan was beautiful, even in the rain and
low visibility the marina and views were
stunning.
Neptune’s staircase the start of the
Caledonian Canal was upon us. A series of
eight consecutive locks, Thermopylae
gradually climbed the hillside to “classic
summer hits” and “Rule Britannia”. With
Ben Nevis looming in the distance, the
entourage of snap happy tourists watched
our every dance move.
As the canal quietened down, Alessio the
on-board Italian treated the crew to
homemade Tiramisu.
Funny how Skipper Clive could never find his coat or mug!
Leg 6: Inverness – Lossiemouth – Peterhead – Montrose – Arbroath – anchorage off
Tayport – Isle of May – Dunbar – Granton (Edinburgh)
Leg 6 we had reached
the East coast and over
half way through the
circumnavigation. With
the Thermopylae’s crew
made up entirely of
afterguard the week
became more focused
on boat handling and
navigational work. Not
forgetting the food. We
created the great
Scottish food homage
starting with homemade
sticky toffee pudding,
Arbroath smokies,
Tablet, Marmalade and
more.
The sheer volume of seals along this coast was phenomenal; Hundreds of them basking along the
sand banks along the river Tay. The beaches were remarkable with sweeping white sand dunes,
rusty red cliffs and the irregular volcanic outcrops inhabited by thousands of gannets.
We arrived in Granton where we caught the bus into Edinburgh and explored the festival soaking up
the atmosphere. We were lucky enough to get tickets to see the new “Wings by Rigolo”
performance at the circus tent. An awe-inspiring display of gymnastics, acrobatics and dance, similar
to Cirque du Soleil.
Leg 7: Granton – Isle of May – Dunbar – Holy Island – Amble – North Shields – Newcastle –
Hartlepool – Grimsby – Hull
Leaving Granton early Monday we headed east to the isle of May, where we rowed a shore and
watched the seals swimming. We were amazed by the Mediterranean weather. After a lazy lunch we
picked up anchor and sailed south to Dunbar, for another night outside Black Agnes’ castle and the
Kittiwakes.
We spent Wednesday in North Shields where we enjoyed a cholesterol heavy family meal out with
deep fried black pudding and goat’s cheese followed by creamy mushroom chicken and a trio of
deserts. We wandered up the Abbey and old Castle before venturing up the river Tyne listening to
Abba. As we approached Gateshead Millennium Bridge we joined Ocean Venture for a mini parade
of sail (another fellow training ship).
The rumours go that Hartlepool is where Malcolm Clipper joined the Discovery Sailing Project. After
a French ship crashed along the shore the only survivor was a monkey. Unable to speak English it
was accused of being French and then hung by the local fishermen. Hartlepool is not a safe place for
monkeys so Malcolm stayed below deck whilst in Harbour! To kill some time waiting for the high tide
we strolled over to the Hartlepool Maritime museum. Being mature adults we found the dressing up
box and proceeded to dress up in gowns, monk’s tabards and lederhosen, followed by the most
bizarre flash dance choreography.
Leg 8: Hull – Wells next the Sea – Lowestoft – anchorage River Ore – Fox’s Marina Ipswich
– Essex Marina Burnham on Crouch – Dover
Before starting leg 8 Hull to Dover, comments had been made “there is nowhere to stop” “it is a
boring stretch of coast”. I would like to point out neither of the comments were true. It has been the
most interesting week in navigational and boat handling terms.
Sand banks and bars were seen as the new challenge. The depth of water was key, testing our
secondary port calculations. Snaking our way up the river Ore and anchoring overnight was the start
of our tricky navigation.
Arriving at the channel entrance at Wells-
next –the –sea, we were soon greeted by the
harbour master, who guided us up the
elusive channel.
In Lowestoft Skipper Mark Fowler put
“sprongs” to the test before setting sail in
gale force 8.
Thermoplyae met the big boys at Felixstowe
keeping out of the main shipping channel,
with no tricky sand bars and banks life
seemed a little too easy so we expertly sailed the entire way up to Ipswich, practicing our passage
planning and boat trimming.
Amongst the wind farms and sand banks we were lucky enough to get a glimpse off the Clacton-on-
Sea air show, watching the red arrow drop there dyes and the MiG and Typhoon roar over us.
Unfortunately this is the week the Abba CD broke � no more dancing queen!
Leg 9: Dover – Dieppe – Fecamp – Honfleur – Cowes – Hamble
The final leg, after spending the day at the Dover regatta and watching the fireworks and sheet
lightning, the new crew from Milton Abbey School were all set to take on a week of sailing. Already
seasoned dinghy sailors, there was no messing about when it came to sail trim. After a variable
crossing of thunderstorms and light winds we arrived in Dieppe. Where we were able to dry off and
feast on croissants and pain au chocolates.
Our second port of call along the French coast was Fecamp. We all enjoyed the shore leave with its
chalk cliffs and Benedictine monastery. Finishing the day with a group dinner filled with endless
laughter as the banter flowed.
Honfleur was a fantastic excuse to mooch around the markets and to sit ordering café au laits. The
crew lazed and rowed about the marina fishing and gorging on crepes. After all their efforts they
finally caught a grey mullet, which we later devoured at dinner.
The last night sail of the circumnavigation was upon us. As we crossed the channel the
phosphorescence sparkled as we cut through the waves and the stars were out in all their glory. The
nine week voyage was coming to an end. As we approached the nab tower the sun was out and the
crew were all in high spirits. We enjoyed our final evening together as we ate Fish and Chips in
Cowes. Departing for Hamble the following morning.