33 pink ruffle pants et final

Page | 1 Copyright © 2014 Monkey Moo Moo (Sau Wong)

MONKEY MOO MOO #33 PINK RUFFLE PANT SET

Copyright © 2014 Monkey Moo Moo (Sau Wong)

This pattern cannot be copied or redistributed in any way. It is protected under copyright law. You may sell your finished product, but please kindly refer back to me as the original pattern designer and my

online store www.etsy.com/shop/monkeymoomoo33

Photo courtesy of Shannon Bower Photography. Do not copy or use photos without permission www.shannonbower.com You must not use my photos for advertising your finished products as these images are copyrighted and only I have the authority to use them. You must have your own photos taken of your finished product. MATERIALS REQUIRED: Bulky yarn (5-‐6wpi) x 100 yards in main colour (MC) Light worsted (double knitting or 8ply) yarn x approximately 30 yards for frilly edges in contrasting colour (CC) A pair of US size 11 (8mm) needles 4.5mm crochet hook A knitting safety pin Scissors Needle 0.5” (1cm) wide Satin ribbon – 85” (216cm)


GAUGE: Using 8mm needles, in stockinette st (k one row, p one row), 6 st by 8 rows is approximately 2” x 2” (5 x 5cm) SIZING: Made to fit newborn only. Hat should fit baby with head circumference approximately 14” (35-‐36cm) Laid flat, the finished pants should measure approximately 6.5” (16.5cm) wide and 8” (20cm) long. SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate ABBREVIATIONS: CC – Contrasting colour MC – Main colour st – stitch k – knit p – purl WS – wrong side RS – right side k2 tog – knit two stitches together p2 tog – purl two stitches together yfwd – yarn forward (bring your yarn forward from the back of your work to the front as though you are doing a purl stitch) sl st – slip stitch sc – single crochet dc – double crochet sk -‐ skip HAT: Using 8mm knitting needles and MC yarn, cast on 34 st Row 1 (WS): k

Row 2 (RS): p

Rows 1 and 2 form the stockinette pattern. Continue alternating rows 1 and 2 until you reach row 12. End on row 12 (purl row)

Your piece of work should measure around 3.25” (8cm) tall, If your piece of work is too short, continue working the stockinette stitch pattern until you reach the desired length, but make sure you end on a purl row so that you are ready for the crown shaping on the right side.

CROWN SHAPING Row 13: *k3, k2 tog**, repeat from * to ** to last 4 st, k4 (28st)

Row 14: p (28st)

Row 15: *k2, k2 tog**, repeat from * to ** to end (21st) Row 16: p (21st)

Row 17: *k1, k2 tog**, repeat from * to ** to end (14st)

Row 18: p2, *p2 tog, p2**, repeat from * to ** to end (11st) Cast off 11 st. Leave a length of yarn about 30” (76cm) in length and then cut the yarn. You will need this tail of yarn for stitching up the back of the bonnet. The bonnet will not lay flat, but you can still measure the length and it should be approximately 4.75”(12cm) in length.


FINISHING Fold the bonnet in half with the right side facing in. Using the 30” (76cm) tail of yarn that you cut off, stitch up the two sides of the bonnet along the cast off row (where the needle is in the image below) and continue stitching back down along the edges of rows together, but STOP stitching when you have an un-‐sewn edge of about 4” (10cm) wide (See image below) The tape measure is against the un-‐sewn edge). You need to keep this part un-‐stitched so that the bonnet can fit around the baby’s head.

Finish off any loose ends. Once the back is stitched up and the bonnet is laid flat, it should measure about 4.75” (12cm) wide and 5.5” (14cm) long along the front edge. CROCHET FRILLY EDGE IN CONTRASTING COLOUR Row 1 (WS): With the wrong side of the hat turned out and using a 4.5mm crochet hook and CC yarn, sl st to the front edge of the bonnet. Make sure you sl st to the first cast on st that you made at the start of the hat. Sc all across the front of the bonnet in each of the remaining 33 st cast on stitches. 33 sc made. See images below.

Row 2 (RS): TURN, ch2, sk the sc at the base of the ch2, 5dc in the next sc, *miss a sc, 6dc in the next sc**. Repeat from * to ** until you reach the last 2 sc, 5dc in the next sc, sc in the last sc. 16 frilly shells made. Cut yarn and pull through the last loop. Sew in loose ends. Using 45” (114cm) or desired length of satin ribbon, thread this in and out through the gaps at the base of each frilly shell. See image below. Pull the ribbon through and make sure both ribbon side ties are even. Bonnet is completed!


PANTS: Using US size 11 (8mm) needles and MC yarn, cast on 40 st, BUT leave a long tail of yarn about 30” (76cm) at the start for stitching up the back of the pants at the end. Row 1 (RS): k Row 2 (WS): p

Row 3 Eyelet row (RS): *k2, yfwd, k2tog** Repeat from * to ** to the end (40 st including the yfwd stitches) Row 4 (WS): p40 (every time you come to a st that looks like a twist, these are the yfwd st from row 3. DO NOT UNWIND, but purl into that st. This will ensure you end up with 40 st count at the end of this row)

Rows 3 and 4 create 10 ‘holes’ or eyelets for threading through the ribbon to tie the top of the pants at the end. Rows 5: k40

Row 6: p40

Repeat rows 5 and 6 until you reach row 18. Make sure you end on row 18 (purl row) If you measure the length of your piece of work now, it should be around 4.5” (11.5cm) tall. The top part of the pants will roll in slightly so stretch it out before you measure your work to ensure you get the right length.

If your piece of work is too short, continue working the stockinette stitch pattern until you reach the desired length, but make sure you end on a purl row so that you are ready for knitting the legs on the right side of your piece of work.

KNITTING THE LEGS ONE SIDE AT A TIME RIGHT LEG:

Row 1 (RS): k20 st. Put the remaining 20 stitches which are still on the left hand knitting needle on a large knitting safety pin. You will work these stitches later.


Working with the 20st that are on the knitting needle that you just knitted in row 1 of the right leg.

Row 2 (WS): p20 st Row 3 (RS): k20 st

Row 4 (WS): p20 st Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you reach row 10 (including row 1 of the start of the right leg). End on row 10 (the purl row).

If you stretch out your piece of work, the waist to the bottom of the right leg should measure approximately 7” (17.5cm). You can make the legs longer, if you wish or shorter, but just keep a note of how many rows you work on the right leg so that you knit the same on the left leg.

Cast off in knit loosely. Leave a tail of yarn about 20” (51cm) for stitching up at the end. Cut yarn and pull through the last st.

LEFT LEG:

Transfer the 20st that you had left on the knitting safety pin back to your knitting needle. JOIN MC yarn from the skein back to your piece of work (just before the first st on your knitting needle)

Row 1 (RS): k20 st


Row 2 (WS): p20 st Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you reach row 10 (including row 1 of the start of the left leg). End on row 10 (the purl row). NOTE: If you have changed the number of rows for your RIGHT leg, make sure you match the same number of rows for your LEFT leg. Cast off in knit loosely, but leave a tail of yarn about 20” (51cm) for stitching up at the end. Cut yarn and pull through the last st.

Your finished piece of work will look a bit like this:

FINISHING:

With the RS of your work facing you, fold your piece of work in half and join the top of the waist together so that the right side is now facing inwards. Using the yarn that you left at the start of the pants, sew the edges together from the top of the waist down about 4.5” (11.5cm)

Stitch up the sides of each leg together using the 20” (51cm) tails of yarn that you had left at the end of each leg. Sew in any loose ends and cut excess yarn. Turn pants the right way around.

CROCHET FRILLY SHELL BORDERS: The bottom of each pant leg should have 20 cast off st. Using a 4.5mm crochet hook, join with a sl st to one of the back loops of a cast off st. Working in the BACK LOOPS ONLY, Ch2, 5dc in the same st as the ch2, miss a st, *6dc in the next st, miss a st**. Repeat from * to ** to the end. Join with a sl st to the top of the first frilly shell. (10 frilly shells made). Cut yarn, pull through the last loop and sew in loose ends.


Repeat the frilly shell borders with the other pant leg. WAIST TIES: Using 40” (102cm) of satin ribbon (or any desired length), thread this in and out through the eyelet holes around the waist of the pants, starting from the front. Tie a bow to finish.

This pattern cannot be copied or redistributed in any way. It is protected under copyright law. You may sell your finished product, but please kindly refer back to me as the original pattern designer and my online store www.etsy.com/monkeymoomoo33 You must not use my photos for advertising your finished products as these images are also copyrighted and only I have the authority to use them. You must have your own photos taken of your finished product to sell.

33 pink ruffle pants et final

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