tips to choose the perfect wedding suit …tips to choose the perfect wedding suit for groom page 3...

TIPS TO CHOOSE

THE PERFECT WEDDING

SUIT FOR GROOM

Hugo de Juana

TIPS TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT

WEDDING SUIT FOR GROOM

© Hugo de Juana 2017

Thank you to Rebecca Pickard (Source Studio) for helping me with translation

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TIPS TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT WEDDING SUIT FOR GROOM

PAGE 3

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations! I understand that If you are reading this eBook it is probably because you get soon married

and you need some advice or at least to confirm your previous ideas concerning the apparel for your

wedding.

Far from trying to be a ceremony wear treaty, this modest book offers direct tips to help you choosing the

most suitable garment for your style and features. It is structured in a decalogue of brief and direct advices,

that you can read in a single session, and surely it will help you to focus better your goals.

These recommendations have been gathered from an extensive experience of my family, with many years

successfully advising the most demanding customers and of course grooms, in the shops of Javier de Juana,

President of the Club de Sastres de España (grouping that meets the most outstanding Spanish Master

Tailors), knowledge that in turn we have translated from one generation to another.

I invite you to read them and after that submitting them to your consideration, because I understand that

fashion is living and should not be dictated. Reach an agreement between them and your personal tastes

to transmit your own style and personality in the most important day for you.

Hugo de Juana


PAGE 4

1. DEFINE THE STYLE OF WEDDING YOU PREFER

The first great decision you should take with your partner is the style of wedding you like because it will

determine the sort of garment that will be worn by groom and wedding guests.

If you like a formal or traditional wedding style, the morning coat will be the most adequate both in

summer and winter, provided its condition of daytime dress code garment. If you prefer a more casual or

sophisticated style, opt for a formal suit or even a frock coat.

Nowadays, there is great freedom so with independency of the style chosen, be sure to feel elegant and

flattered with your look as that day you will be the sharp focus. As Hardy Amies used to assert “A man

should look as if he had bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all

about them”.

FORMAL WEDDING (FORMAL ATTIRE) - MORNING COAT

The morning coat is one of the

most renowned garments of the

men’s attire and the most

adequate for daytime dress code,

which takes place before 6 PM or

with sunlight. The afternoon dress

code garment is the tailcoat,

although is discouraged for

weddings, unless the take place

very late. The tuxedo, although

very commonly used in various

countries, is a party garment and

not adequate for weddings.

There was a time (mid XIX century)

when the morning coat was a daily

garment and its design was slightly

different to the current one, as it

had been thought for horse riding

so the tails do not result

uncomfortable to the horseman, when he had the feet inside the

stirrups.

Today it should be black or dark grey with a single button to tie and with

peak lapels. In summer the mid grey is accepted although the most

suitable is still the black one. There is even and old dress code rule,

which indicates that only the groom and viscounts should go in grey and

the rest of the guests should wear in black.

Traditionally the waistcoat was Pearl grey, light beige or of the same

color than the coat, in which case, some fabric ribbons are stitched in

the neck and they are usually white in summer. Today, coloured

waistcoats are admitted. Cutting can be single or double breasted and

with 6 buttons they look great.

Pants should be formal striped with pleat and never cuffed.

Exceptionally, with mid grey morning coat, pants can be of the same

colour than jacket and waistcoat. It is worn preferably with braces and

without belt loops.

It is worn with a flower in the lapel and white linen pocket square. The

top hat that traditionally was made of silk or shiny fur is today in disuse,

as it obligates excessively to guests and it is preferable to keep it for

more ludic events like Ascot races. The same can be applied to gloves.

Shoes must be black, in tafilete or fine boxcalf and lace-up.

INFORMAL WEDDING - (INFORMAL ATTIRE) - SUIT

Far from what the concept “informal attire” seems to suggest, this dress

code requires the use of suit, not accepting other less formal stylings

like the combination of jacket and trousers, elegant but not strict.

Until the 30’s, when the use of suit was consolidated as the office

working attire, people used to wear tailcoat, frock coat and then

morning coat, reserving the use of suit for less formal occasions

The origin of suit is located in England under a concept of elegance

based on following the dress codes imposed by the dominant classes.

With posteriority, it has been influenced by the Italian concepts of

elegance more subordinated to aesthetics.

Nowadays, we can choose the best of both currents and there are no

such strict codes, so a new world of possibilities for wedding suits opens

up. Nevertheless, the wedding suit “codes” are different from the

working suit ones and it is convenient to know them to focus better

your choice.

Morning Coat


PAGE 5

2. LOOK FOR STYLE INSPIRATION

A good starting point can be to browse magazines, search in the Internet grooms’ photos that you

like, and even can carry and show them to your tailor so he can better interpret the image you want

to convey.

Those pictures will give you clues about cutting styles, combinations, ideal lengths, fittings and

additional orientation about how to wear the garments and accessories. I am referring to for

example, how to tie the tie, put a pocket square, and what accessories to choose, etc… essential

details that we usually don’t give the due importance to.

With the exception of some popular magazines, the majority Italian, and some websites, there are

not many sources, so to make this research effort easier for you, we have created an “Inspiration

Gallery” with many different suit and ceremony proposals, which I suggest you to visit. You can

access in www.xelectia.com , ¡Don’t miss it!.

Javier de Juana

http://www.xelectia.com/en?utm_source=ebook-traje-novio&utm_medium=link-ebook&utm_campaign=version2017


PAGE 6

3. MAKE YOUR BESPOKE SUIT WITH A WELL KNOWN PROFFESIONAL

Today there are a lot of valid Prét â Porter options and however, our clients insist on emphasizing

this tip as one of the most valuable, due to the fact that a well-made bespoke suit will bring you

benefits that are widely superior to the difference in price:

First, bespoke tailoring achieves a perfect fit without shortfalls in movements. That is

because in tailoring, the garment is fitted over the client’s shoulder, so it settles down in

morphological valleys and not in crests like the Prét â Porter, which to be sold to many

people, act as “boxes able to contain many sort of different bodies”. In bespoke tailoring

shoulders, sleeves and fronts lines are “more rounded” and the neckline is low slendering

the figure.

A suit designed for you will not remain indifferent to anyone because it will emphasize your

strengths and conceal your defects or weaknesses. For that purpose, we study aspects like

the most flattering width of shoulders or lapels for you, total lengths, height of pockets,

fittings, etc… with special attention to “create volumes”, what results in garments which

“produce sensations” of great comfort and assurance, considerably increasing the service

life of the garments that can be estimated in an average of 10 years.

Moreover, you will be able to customize and imprime your personal touch. Especially

interesting are the sutile details, hardly perceivable to the naked eye, that are present but

need a closer look to the suit to be really detected. For example, a different color in collar

felt, special linings, and chest pocket slightly more slanted, different colour of a sleeve

buttonhole or your initials embroidered in some specific place.

Unlike the bride, the groom counts with the advantage of having chances to wear again the suit

with posteriority to the wedding, which contributes to reaffirm the investment although the suit

don’t be used daily. Every man should have at least one representative suit in the wardrobe.

Choosing a well-known professional, who works with maximum standards of quality will ensure

your success. The Club de Sastres de España (“Tailors of Spain Club”) is formed by the sartorial

quintessence of our country. I invite you to contact any of its master tailors that you can see in

www.clubdesastres.com.

http://www.clubdesastres.com/?utm_source=ebook-traje-novio&utm_medium=link-ebook&utm_campaign=version2017


PAGE 7

4. MAKE IT DIFFERENT FROM YOUR DAILY SUITS

While it is true that you will be able to reuse the suit after the wedding, we recommend to

distinguish it from a “daily working suit”. Mind that a ceremony suit has a less functional goal and

its intentionality is more aesthetic, so aspects like result flattering in video and photos or express

your personality must be prioritized.

In the working attire we should be very aware of the “esprit de corps”, which are values that should

be conveyed by a professional of a certain activity to result effective. For example, a banker should

transmit a sober, stable and calming look; while an artist should irradiate creativity, originality,

seduction and the personal image of a politician should be respectably, balanced and booster.

For the ceremony attire I suggest to emphasize “more your individuality and less the corporatism”,

including style details, which could not be so suitable for working attire, like for example peak

lapels, a single button jacket, slanted pockets or your own ideas provided that it is your day.

www.javierdejuana.com | www.exquisuits.com

http://www.javierdejuana.com/

http://www.exquisuits.com/


PAGE 8

5. CHOOSE FABRICS WITH IMPACT

The fabric choice is key as it will determine the whole look of the groom and accessories, which as

its own name suggests should be chosen after the suit.

If we look simplicity and elegance, a plain fabric is suitable when goes in hand with a great quality

cloth like the made of silk, mohair, cashmere or a Super 100’s wool. Nevertheless and maintaining

discretion, opt for a touch of sophistication with an impacting fabric!.

We like the most, those fabrics that at a mid-distance show interesting patterns or insinuating

shapes but cannot be guessed unless you stare at them in the short distance, where they become

surprising because of their design or novelty. Fabrics with a little shine will appear better in photos

and video.

These fabrics are usually “remakes” or evolutions of the classic patterns, with new compositions and

combinations of stripes and herringbones, embossed patterns, dots or reinvented checks. The

message you will transmit will be about updated, well-informed and great style.

Tip: To be able to choose a fabric properly, keep away 2 or 3 meters to see it in the distance that

we normally use to evaluate a suit. You will be surprised about the fact that patterns that appear

highly “eye-catching” in the sample, can go even unnoticed in the distance.

SUMMER WEDDING

Most suitable quality and thickness will be determined by the

wedding’s time of the year. If you get married in summer go for a light

fabric (less than 275 grams/meter) to keep coolness.

A worsted wool is always a sure option specially the thinnest ones

(Super 100’s until Super 180’s), but there are fabrics specifically

appropriate for this season like mohair, which comes from the Angora

Goat and offers great transpiration and lightness and at the same time

resistance and durability. It has also an attractive characteristic shine

very flattering.

Mohair suit


PAGE 9

Also the cool wool silk and even linen, that with its more casual appearance can be perfect for a

wedding in the beach. Mind also that light coloured fabrics will retain less the sun heat in very hot

places.

WINTER WEDDING

For winter season, we recommend mid thickness fabrics (from 300 gr.

until 375 gr.). Thicker fabrics have today fallen in disuse due to the

extended air conditioning systems.

The aforementioned mentioned worsted wool suit is a good choice all

year because of its resistance and great adaptation. However there are

other wintertime fabrics very advisable that will result very

distinguished. I am talking about flannel, with its slightly combed yarn,

cashmere with its unique softness and drape.


Flannel suit




PAGE 10

6. COLOURS … THINK IN PHOTOGRAPHIC EFFECTS

After the shine and golden prevailing in the Napoleonic court, British style imposed in the European

capitals. It stated, “Any serious suit must be dark”. Blue prevailed as the most suitable for the “city”

and black as the most solemn and representative for etiquette.

Taking this into consideration, we can introduce more colours in summer and the winter season

demands darker tones, and a note of colour can be included in waistcoat and accessories. The

wedding time of day is also important demanding darker colours the later it takes place.

Beyond these ideas, choose the most flattering colours for you, those that enhance your best look

in photos and video, documents that will remain for the future. For this purpose, it is recommended

to choose a suit with little shine as it will provide us with great photographic effects due to the

reflection of light in the fabric while moving.

Moreover the quality and shine of the fabric, here you are some advice to choose best colours for

your skin tone, colour of eyes and morphology.

PALE SKINS

For pale skins, dark colours work better because they don’t offer a great aspect when paired

with white or very light colours.

Regarding to shirts, beige is not a good choice provided your skin can look even paler.

DARK SKINS

People with dark skins should avoid too dark colours that don’t stand out over their skin

tone. The goal is to bring light to the face with well contrasting colours.

Brilliant colours are a signal of confidence but they should be nuanced with soft-coloured

accessories.


PAGE 11

COLOURS AND COMPLEXIONS

Black is resounding and sophisticated but is not suitable for all complexions as in some

cases can result hard for groom’s facial features and skin tone.

Light grey is a classic going well with almost any complexion, and complementing very well

the vast majority of bride dresses.

Dark grey gives a formal touch and acquires special elegance with fabrics that soften its

dark mass with a lighter “vigoré” (light combed yarns).

Navy blue is probably the most popular colour for ceremony. With really good photographic

effects, but demands to be very careful in the selection of the tone to avoid being vulgarized

by other guests’ blue suits.

You will possibly like that some part of your suit matches with the bride’s dress. An interesting idea

could be to match the colour of the tie or pocket square. It is not needed to get the same exact

colours, the idea is to maintain a balanced harmony between them. .





PAGE 12

7. OPT FOR THE MOST FLATTERING SUIT CUT FOR YOU

At this point, please let me be categorical concerning to “no matter how expensive the suit may be,

no matter the brand or quality fabric, if it does not fit you well, it will be a complete failure”

It is precisely the mission of a good Tailor or style advisor to flatter his client, empower his strengths

and conceal his weaknesses. After uncountable hours spent in the fitting room, we develop a “clinic

eye” capable to calculate accurately the most suitable proportions for each person and the style that

results most flattering for them (shoulders, fittings, height of buttons and pockets, height of notch

and width of lapels…). The perfect match arrives when we combine those factors with a touch of

fashion and current trend, all aligned with customer’s preferences.

A well cut suit will make a difference, so if you have to choose between the last suit worn in a movie

by your favourite actor, model or sportsman and what can suit you best, I recommend to choose the

latter, what in any case means to resign to a style, but adapt it to better achieve your image goals.

Generally speaking:

TALL PEOPLE

They can wear 2 button suits and even add more buttons to the jacket in 3 or 4 buttons

times (now 3 and 4 button jackets are not very trendy but fashion is cyclical and surely they

will come back in the future ). No vents.

They can also choose frock coats and longer garments, as well as lighter colours that

structure better the body shape.

The tolerate more closed in the neck waistcoats also high and wide shirt collars.

If voluminous, they should wear an envolving style of shoulders, preferably plain fabrics

and narrower shirt collars.


PAGE 13

MEDIUM SIZED AND THICK PEOPLE

2 Button jackets, they can go for a central vent, thin and dark fabrics. If they have a short

waistline or prominent stomach, they can conceal it with a double breasted jacket.

Better short and mid open shirt collars. Double breasted waistcoat with 4 buttons better

than 6.

SHORT PEOPLE

Jackets with 1 or 2 buttons with wide lapels, preferably in peak, as they focus sight upwards

and figure appears to be more slender. Also stripes contribute with a slender effect in body

shape.

Open neckline waistcoats with straight lines in the bottom or even double breasted with

colour and patterns. In the case of thin people, include a pleat in trousers and for strong

people better without pleats.





PAGE 14

8. DISTINGUISH YOURSELF AS THE CEREMONY HOST

In every wedding is interesting to distinguish the groom from the guests, if only for checking that the guy

kissing the bride is indeed the groom. Details to distinguish yourself are:

WAISTCOAT

The waistcoat daily use has declined during the second part of the XX

century. But not for ceremony as it offers interesting pros like, to grant

a classic and elegant look, introduduce a bit of colour and enable to

maintain a decent image if the groom decides to take the jacket off.

While wearing a morning coat, waistcoat is mandatory and may be of

the same fabric than the coat (with ribbons in the fronts), beige, and

pearl grey. Today vivid colours like yellow, blue, pink or green are

accepted and when double breasted, it should go better with lapels.

In the case of wearing suit, it is not mandatory but highly recommended.

You can choose cloth or silk fabrics, plain and sober or patterned and

more daring. It can also be single or double breasted, which currently is

very popular and with 6 button is really flattering. When single breasted, the last button can be left open.

BOUTONNIERE

It consists on a floral detail in the lapel that can be a single flower or bouquet of flowers. Traditionally it used to be

hanged through the left lapel buttonhole, in the same side as the

pocket square. The buttonhole. The buttonhole used to have a strap to

hold the flower’s stem, but today it has disappeared so we can use a

pin behind the lapel.

There is some debate as to whether wearing both together the

boutonniere and pocket square or not, afraid of appearing “too ornate”.

Personally I think that the effect is good so I encourage you to wear

them together, as long as it goes with a discrete pocket square and it

does not peek out excessively about the pocket (a good reference is to

show a quarter part of it).

Beige Waistcoat

Boutonniere and Pocket Square


PAGE 15

SHIRT AND TIE

Shirt must be of great quality of cotton, silk or mixed silk combinations, which offer much shine while reducing

the wrinkles of the silk. White, ivory, grey are typical, being interesting the option of making the collar and cuffs

of a different fabric than the body. I like fabrics like Herringbone twill with its diagonal yarns that grant shirts a

special light shade.

The collar is the key point. We must ensure that it is well fitted, not

showing ease in excess, which is very negative, and avoiding also that

collar ends roll up and get separated from the shirt’s body when we

tie the knot. Height of the base of the collar, width and amount of

opening should flatter your features.

Approximately 1 cm of the cuffs should be shown underneath the

jacket sleeves. They can be to be tied with cufflinks or button, being

cufflinks a more formal option.

The tie is the accessory that enables a higher grade of innovation, so

I will only point out the importance of tying it properly and gracefully,

what has more to do with the sort of knot and the force applied to tie it. Particularly I prefer the Windsor knot,

which is thicker and triangular shaped than the American, although the American might help better to slender

the figure due to its more elongated shape.

REST OF ACCESSORIES

Pocket square contributes to add more interest and colour to the

groom’s outfit. It can be made of linen or silk and colour can be

different from the tie, but always complementary. Options of

patterns and colours are almost infinite and white, ivory, and grey

are the most popular.

It can be worn perfectly folded forming a rectangle, although I prefer

offering a younger look by introducing it in the pocket “in an

apparently more accidental way” showing part of the base and part

of the peaks.

If worn the belt should be discrete and match with the shoes.

Suspenders are a better choice as they maintain better trousers in place, enhancing verticality of crease, and they

are also more efficient avoiding shirt displacements.

Herringbone Twill pattern


PAGE 16

9. GIVE IMPORTANCE TO SHOES

In my opinion it is a bit exaggerated the statement that “shoes are the most important garment of

the men’s attire”, although I admit that a superb outfit could be ruined by a bad shoes choice.

Give them importance in your attire and choose high quality leather shoes. The classic leather for

men’s shoes is the calf skin or “boxcalf”. Although it is not easy to see differences to the naked eye,

fortunately, shoes market is one of those in which a well-known brand is synonymous of quality,

provided that formal shoes have barely evolved and have survived the best brands with best raw

materials and handicraft manufacture.

Ceremony shoes should be light and stylized. With thin sole provided that the thicker, the less

ceremonial it will look. They should be black, lace-up, and the shoelace eyelets attached to the top

of the vamp. Brown shoes are discarded due to its casual look except for summer weddings with

light suits.

Fortunately a wedding is not a sports competition and nothing happens if putting the shoes that

day for the first time. Indeed, It is very common to do it, but remember to check soles not being too

slippery or have them prepared by shoemaker.

“Oxford” shoes – considered the most formal for ceremony


PAGE 17

10. DON’T LEAVE IT TO THE LAST MOMENT… SCHEDULE IT

A custom made or bespoke suit takes 3 or 4 weeks to make. Nevertheless, and as there might be

necessary at least one fitting, it is not advisable to leave it to the last moment, especially in the case

of your wedding suit. Schedule it in advance with at least a 3 or 4 months’ time.

CREATE YOUR SUIT ONLINE / VISIT OUR SHOWROOM

If you are visiting Bilbao (Spain) you can schedule and appointment to visit our showroom. If not, I suggest to

create your suit online with us in www.exquisuits.com/en/ and even measure up with the webcam

JAVIER DE JUANA | EXQUISUITS

Avenida de Leioa, 14-B. Neguri (Getxo). Bizkaia – España

Tlf: (+34) 944 914 137 | [email protected]

www.javierdejuana.com | www.exquisuits.co.uk

Javier de Juana y Hugo de Juana


mailto:[email protected]

http://www.javierdejuana.com/?utm_source=ebook-traje-novio&utm_medium=link-ebook&utm_campaign=version2017

https://www.exquisuits.co.uk/?utm_source=ebook-traje-novio&utm_medium=link-ebook&utm_campaign=version2017


PAGE 18

ABOUT THE AUTHOR - HUGO DE JUANA

CEO OF EXQUISUITS ONLINE TAILORING, STYLE ADVISOR

AND E-COMMERCE& SEO EXPERT

Formed in the family fashion and tailoring business, from

an early age learnt to design and cut bespoke garments,

the personal image keys, fitting and core competencies to

satisfy the most demanding customers. Among them there

are important personalities of the economic, political and

social life.

The attraction he feels about marketing and a vocational

entrepreneurial spirit, led him to create their own projects

like the creation in 2005 of the luxury shop e-commerce

platform Xelectia-Redes de Excelencia Comercial, in

2010 Xelectia Web Lab as a web design and SEO agency

specialized in retail firms and e-commerce. In 2014 he

launches with Javier de Juana, President of the Club de

Sastres de España, Exquisuits as a high end online

tailoring platform.

He has taken part in numerous events like the eBusiness Global Conference, Semana del Comercio Vasca, Urban

Commerce, Evento Iniciativa Pymes. Also took part in the work group of Ikusmer of Ecommerce advice to the Basque

Country government. He is also professor in the Master Internet Business 2.0 of the Prestigious Eseune Business School

and in Marketing Master Gesco, ESIC School of business.

Hugo de Juana graduated in Marketing by the Bilbao Chamber of Commerce and, Business Studies diploma by the

Basque Country University. He studied a Master in online marketing and e-commerce and a master in marketing and

commercial management.

You can visit his websites

Online Tailoring (www.exquisuits.com) | Inspiration gallery (www.xelectia.com) | Blog Xelectia

(http://blog.xelectia.com) | Xelectia Web Lab (http://www.xelectiaweblab.com)

If you want to get in touch with Hugo de Juana :

Mail: [email protected] | Twitter: @hugodejuana

LinkedIn: http://es.linkedin.com/in/hugodejuana

Hugo de Juana


http://www.xelectia.com/

http://blog.xelectia.com/

http://www.xelectiaweblab.com/

mailto:[email protected]

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