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The Midwestern Region of the Costume Society of America invites you to the 42nd Annual Meeting and National Symposium

THE FULL CLEVELAND

May 25-28, 2016 Gayle Strege and Marlise Schoeny, Symposium Co-Chairs

Barbara Trout, President, Midwestern Region Enjoy a week's activities of recent historic dress research findings through presentations, panel discussions, and exhibitions—including research, design and virtual exhibitions—in addition to professional development sessions and hands-on workshops. A silent auction and marketplace will be complemented with visits to local museums as well as opportunities to visit old friends and greet new members. All before the city is inundated with political conventioneers in July!

THE CITY Cleveland, Ohio: a major city on the southern shore of Lake Erie where industrial grit meets world class cultural sophistication with a generous helping of ethnic diversity. Clevelanders have never followed the herd and never followed anyone else's rules; they made their own, making this the perfect venue for individual self-expression. The city where rock ‘n’ roll was born alongside the Cleveland Orchestra’s Severance Hall was never mainstream, flashy, trendy, nor perfect. And they prefer it that way—a city with world-class experiences without the world-class ego. You’re welcome! In case you missed our invitation at the San Antonio meeting, you can see the Cleveland video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgqD-Of0G-8

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THE HOTEL The Wyndham Cleveland at Playhouse Square is the conference hotel. Located in the vibrant theater district, at 1260 Euclid Avenue, right on glittering Playhouse Square, it is across the street from the Cleveland Play House Theater and next door to the former Halle Brothers Department Store building. This 205 room boutique-style hotel is also just down the block from the round “Rotunda” building which houses Heinen’s Grocery as well as a Coffee Bar, and only a 20 minute walk from the Rock ‘n’ Roll Hall of Fame. Yes, there is a giant crystal chandelier over Playhouse Square.

THE WEATHER Cleveland weather for May 23-29 is 70-72 F with average lows of 55-58 F. Temps are from the official weather station inland at the airport. Remember we will be near a large body of water cooling things off, so having a jacket or sweater will be in order. Cleveland can experience light to moderate rain, so come prepared.

GETTING THERE By Car: Cleveland is at the intersection of 3 major interstate highways, I90 from the E/NE/W/NW, or I71 or 77 from the south. Check hotel website for detailed directions. Daily overnight valet ($24) or self-parking ($15) available By Bus: Megabus serves Cleveland and the Greyhound station is practically around the block By Train: Yes, it’s possible! Amtrak services Cleveland with four trains daily and Lakefront Station is just a short distance from Play House Square By Air: Cleveland Hopkins International Airport and taxi to hotel or

A1 Airport Limo $25 to Downtown Cleveland hotels, or UBERX: enter code “THISISCLE” to get first ride free up to $20, or Red Line Rapid Train to downtown Cleveland Public Square $2.25, transfer to free Euclid Ave Healthline Trolley toward Louis Stokes Sta. Disembark at Euclid and E 14th St Station. Wyndham is at 13th and Euclid.

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KEYNOTE SPEAKER We are excited to have fashion writer Teri Agins as the Keynote Speaker for The Full Cleveland: Dress as Communication, Self-Expression, and Identity.

Ms. Agin’s latest book, Hijacking the Runway, How Celebrities are Stealing the Spotlight from Fashion Designers, seemed the perfect vehicle to kick off our symposium related to communication, self-expression, and identity. What expresses it all in one word better than celebrity?

Agins is a freelance writer and the “Ask Teri” columnist at The Wall Street Journal. She also has written for Vogue, Essence, Town & Country, Fortune and Harper’s Bazaar. Teri is a popular lecturer and has been a TV guest on “Oprah”, “Project Runway”, “The View,” “Full Frontal Fashion,” “The Today Show,” CNN, CNBC and Fox Business News.

A Kansas City native, Agins first joined the Wall Street Journal in New York as a reporter in 1984. She developed WSJ’s fashion beat beginning in 1989 to cover the fashion industry from a business perspective and remained full-time with the Journal until 2009. Her first book The End of Fashion, The Mass Marketing of the Clothing Business, written for Harpercollins in 1999, continues to be used in university fashion and marketing courses.

Agins has won a number of journalism awards from the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the Accessories Council, Columbia University, University of Missouri and the Newswomen’s Club of New York. She is a graduate of Wellesley College and has a master’s degree in journalism from the University of Missouri.

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SYMPOSIUM SCHEDULE

*All times and sessions are tentative and subject to change.

The following events are held at the Wyndham Cleveland Playhouse Square unless otherwise specified.

MONDAY, MAY 23RD

6:00pm-8:00pm Angels Project Volunteers Meeting and Reception – Ukrainian Museum-Archives

TUESDAY, MAY 24TH

8:00am-6:00pm Angels Project – Ukrainian Museum-Archives

6:00pm-10:00pm National Board Meeting – Embassy

7:30-8:30pm National Board Dinner – Roxy WEDNESDAY, MAY 25TH

8:15am-7:00pm Registration – Prefunction

9:00am-12:00pm Board Meeting – Embassy

8:30am-4:30pm Pre-symposium Tour Session – All Day Kent State University with optional TechStyle workshop (Kent, Ohio)

9:00am-12:00pm Professional Development Workshop Session – Roxy Care and Handling of Costume Sarah C. Stevens, Zephyr Preservation Studio, LLC

12:00pm-2:00pm Pre-symposium Tour Session – Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Museum

1:00pm-4:00pm Endowment Trustees Meeting – Embassy

1:00pm-4:00pm Professional Development Workshop Session – Roxy Learning to Fosshape: An Inexpensive Alternative for Costume Mounts

Cynthia Amnéus, Cincinnati Art Museum

1:00pm-4:00pm Professional Development Workshop Session – Hanna Kleibacker Techniques for Successful Bias Cut Construction Joycelyn Burdett, Villa Maria College

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2:30pm-4:00pm Prof. Development Workshop Panel Session – Allen Help (Maybe?) Wanted: Navigating the Costume Work Force Carmen N. Keist, Western Illinois University Marcella Martin, Philadelphia University Petra Slinkard, Chicago History Museum

Laura L. Camerlengo, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco

4:30pm-5:30pm First Time Attendees Meet and Greet – Outdoor Terrace

6:00pm-7:00pm Keynote Speaker: Teri Agins – Palace West

7:00pm-8:30pm Full Cleveland Opening Reception – Palace East Joan Severa/Dressed for the Photographer fundraiser – Stillman and Prefunction THURSDAY, MAY 26TH

7:00am-8:30am Breakfast – Palace East/West (Regional Presidents /Treasurers meet)

8:15am-12:15pm Registration – Prefunction

8:30am-10:00am Concurrent Juried Papers – State Communication

1. Historical Accuracy and the Communication of Theatrical Costume Design

Sara Jablon, Iowa State University Eulanda Sanders, Iowa State University 2. Fashion and the Art of Pochoir April Calahan, Fashion Institute of Technology Cassidy Zachary, Independent Researcher 3. For the Love of Oscar Marilyn DeLong, University of Minnesota Barbara Heinemann, University of Minnesota Kathryn Riley, University of Minnesota

8:30am-10:00am Concurrent Juried Papers – Stillman Historical/Cultural Identity-Headwear

1. Crowns of Gold: The Origins of the Yellow Jewish Hat and the Construction of its Symbolism

Leslie Yarmo, Salisbury University 2. From the Fanny Bilson to the Madame Wallman: Milliners On and Off the Pedestal

Nadine Stewart, Montclair State University

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3. Connection to the Movement: African-American Women’s Hair During the Civil Rights Movement

Ashley Garrin, Iowa State University Sara Marcketti, Iowa State University

10:00am-10:10am Break

10:10am-12:10pm Plenary Presentations – Palace East and West Milia Davenport Publication Award: Wearable Prints 1760-1860: History, Materials and Mechanics

Susan Greene Costume Design Award: Tartuffe co-produced by the Berkeley Repertory Theatre, South Coast Repertory Theatre, and Shakespeare Theatre

Sonia Berlovitz

12:15pm-1:15pm Lunch – Palace East and West (Buffet in Prefunction)

1:45pm Buses leave for Cleveland Museum of Art and Western Reserve Historical Society

2:00pm-5:00pm Explore Cleveland Museum of Art and Western Reserve Historical Society

Tours at 2:15, 2:45, 3:15, 3:45, 4:15 and 4:45pm

3:30pm-5:00pm Silent Auction / Marketplace Set-up – Palace East / Stillman

4:15pm First bus from tours returns to hotel

5:00pm-7:00pm Design Exhibition Set-Up – Embassy

5:30pm-7:30pm Special Interest Group and Committee Meetings – Roxy, Hanna, Allen and State (see p.29)

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FRIDAY, MAY 27TH

7:00am-8:30am Breakfast with your region/regional board meetings – State, Allen, Roxy, Hanna and Outdoor Terrace

8:30am-6:00pm Registration – Prefunction

8:30am-1:15pm Viewing of Design Showcase – Embassy

8:30am-5:30pm Silent Auction – Palace East

8:30am-5:30pm Marketplace – Stillman and Prefunction

8:30am-9:00am Optional Meeting Time – Roxy, Hanna, Allen and Outdoor Terrace

9:00am-10:30am Concurrent Juried Papers / Virtual Exhibit – State Historical/Cultural Identity 1. Lost Skirts of the Greek Islands Linda Welters, University of Rhode Island 2. The Hakka Traditional Dowry Leigh Southward, University of Arkansas 3. The Virginia Man – Virtual Exhibit Kristen Stewart, The Valentine Museum

9:00am-10:30am Concurrent Juried Papers – Palace West Historical Identity - 18th Century

1. Clothing and Female Identity: Old Bailey Trials, Revelations of Self, Dress, and Meaning in Eighteenth-Century London

Lynn Sorge, Fountain School of Performing Arts 2. Macaroni Dress Variants, Social Status and Self Expression: Searching for Non-Satirical Visual Evidence Anne Bissonnette, University of Alberta Michael McCarty, Colonial Williamsburg Mark D. Hutter, Colonial Williamsburg

3. The Sterb-Spiegel: A Fashionable Eighteenth-Century Dance of Death

Karin J. Bohleke, Shippensburg University

10:30am-10:45am Break - Prefunction

10:45am-12:15pm Concurrent Juried Papers – State Performance Identity

1. Between the Picturesque and the Fashionable: Costuming the King of Cadonia, 1908

Kirstin Purtich, Independent Scholar

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2. Sovietizing French Revolutionary Dress for the Ballet Stage: Vasili Vainonen’s Flames of Paris

Linden Hill, Independent Researcher 3. The Clothes Make the Lawyer: Intertextuality and Aspirational Dressing in Better Call Saul

Lauren Boumaroun, University of CA-Los Angeles

10:45am-12:15pm Concurrent Juried Papers – Palace West Historical Identity - 19th Century

1. “Ways of Comfort”: Women’s Dress for Long-Distance Train Travel in America, 1870-1915

Rebecca Jumper Matheson 2. “Through the Lens of Fashion”: an Analysis of Dress in Early Victorian Daguerreotypes

M. Elaine Mackay, Black Creek Pioneer Village 3. Mirabel, Evelyn and Surface: The Story of Three Costumes Worn by Actor James E. Murdoch

Adam Macpharlain, Cincinnati Art Museum

12:15pm-1:00pm Boxed Lunch – Outdoor Terrace, Roxy, Hanna, State, Allen

1:00pm-2:25pm Annual Meeting, Awards Presentations and Invitation to Portland – Palace West

2:35pm-3:30pm Plenary Presentation – Palace West Stella Blum Student Research Grant: Cosplay: Creating the Body Fantastic

Matthew Lee Hale, Indiana University

3:30pm-3:40pm Break

3:40pm-5:10pm Concurrent Juried Panel – Cultural Identity – State When Thai Style Became High Style: Transformation in Thai Royal Dress

Melissa Leventon, Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles Dale Carolyn Gluckman, Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles Sarttarat Muddin, Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles Piyanan Petchaburanin, Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles

3:40pm-5:10pm Concurrent Prof. Development Panel – Palace West Managing Costume Collections: An Inquisitive and Interactive Panel for the Collector, Historian, Teacher, Curator, Designer or Collection Manager

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Louise-Coffey-Webb, Author, Managing Costume Collections Bobi Garland, Private Collection Consultant Susan Neill, The Field Museum of Natural History

3:45pm-5:10pm Cleveland Playhouse Tour (not confirmed)

5:30pm Silent Auction Ends – Palace East

6:00pm-7:30pm Special Interest Group and Committee Meetings – Roxy, Hanna, Allen and State (see p.29)

6:00pm-7:30pm Research Exhibition Set-Up – Embassy

7:30pm-9:00pm Silent Auction Pick-Up – Palace East

8:30pm-10:00pm Endowment Board of Trustees Reception (by invitation only, please)

SATURDAY, MAY 28TH

7:00am-8:30am Breakfast – Palace East (Regional Membership Chairs meet)

8:00am-1:00pm Registration – Prefunction

8:00am-8:30am Research Exhibition Set-Up – Embassy

8:00am-10:00am Silent Auction Pick-up – Stillman

8:30am-10:45am Research Exhibitions Viewing – Embassy

9:00am-10:30am Concurrent Juried Papers/Virtual Exhibit – Palace West Historical Identity – 20th Century 1. 50 Years of Designing for Mrs. Main Street America: The Story of Elizabeth “Libby” Payne

Caroline Surrarrer, Kent State University Catherine Leslie, Kent State University 2. Paris in Ohio: An Analysis of a Poiret Personal Print Sarah Finley, Fashion Institute of Technology

3. Ingénue to Icon: 70 Years of Fashion from the Collection of Marjorie Merriweather Post – Virtual Exhibit

Howard Vincent Kurtz, Hillwood Museum

9:00am-10:30am Concurrent Juried Papers – State Historical/Cultural Identity - Footwear 1. Fresh Kicks: Sneakers and the Construction of Masculinity Elizabeth Semmelhack, Bata Shoe Museum

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2. “Beach Kicks”: The Role of Rubber Bathing Shoes in Early 20th Century Swimwear

Arlesa Shephard, SUNY-Buffalo State

10:30am-10:45am Break

10:45am-12:15pm Scholars Roundtable – Palace West Everyone Their Own Curator: Professionalism and Authority in the Digital Age Jo Paoletti, Chair, Scholars Roundtable Committee

Virginia Heaven, Columbia College Chicago Sara Hume, Kent State University Museum Deborah Kraak, Independent Museum Professional Ingrid Mida, Ryerson Fashion Research Collection

10:45am-12:30pm Professional Development Session: Civilian Fashions in the Civil War

Julie Burnsides, Independent Researcher

12:30pm-1:30pm Lunch – Palace East and West

1:30pm-3:00pm Concurrent Juried Panel – Meaning – State Research Panel: Shifting Semiotics: A Panel Discussion on the Future Interpretation of Dress as New Generations Change our Views on Meaning

Leslie Littell, Oakland University Katie Baker Jones, West Virginia University Jennifer Yurchisin, University of Minnesota

1:30pm-3:00pm Concurrent Professional Development Panel – Stillman Using Historic Costume in the Classroom: Examples From the Field

Marlise Schoeny, The Ohio State University Trina Gannon, Ohio University Constance Korosec, Ursuline College Sherri Saines, Ohio University

3:00pm-3:10pm Break

3:10pm-4:40pm Concurrent Juried Papers / Virtual Exhibit– State Methodology

1. Recognizing American Arts and Crafts Dress and Accessories

Abby Lillethun, Montclair State University

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2. The Dress Detective: Revealing Identity Through a Slow Approach to Seeing

Ingrid Mida, Ryerson University Alexandra Kim, Editor, Costume (UK)

3. “The Way We Wore”: An Exhibition of Clothing and Memory – Virtual Exhibit

Sequoia D. Barnes, University of Delaware Dilia López-Gydosh, University of Delaware

3:10pm-4:40pm Concurrent Juried Papers – Palace East and West Historical/Cultural Identity

1. Issues of Identity: The Dress of the Csángó Minority in Romania

Doris Domoszlai-Lantner, Fashion Institute of Technology

2. Maskit: Weaving a National Identity Ya’ara Keydar, New York University

3. New Zealand’s World of Fashion Tour 1971: An Expression of National Identity?

Jane Malthus, Otago Polytechnic and Otago Museum

4:45pm-5:45pm Plenary Presentation – Palace East and West Richard Martin Exhibition Award: Charles James: Beyond Fashion

Harold Koda and Jan Reeder, Curators, The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art

5:45pm-6:15pm Concluding remarks and Break 6:15pm-7:45pm Board of Directors Meeting – Palace East SUNDAY, MAY 29TH

9:00am-12:00pm Professional Development Workshop Session: Photography of Historic Collections – Roxy

Charity Calvin, Iowa State Anne Bissonnette, University of Alberta

9:30am-2:30pm Post-Symposium Tour Session – Kent State University

12:00pm-2:00pm Post-Symposium Tour Session – Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Museum

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PRE SYMPOSIUM ACTIVITIES DETAILS

CSA ANGELS PROJECT

The 2016 CSA Angels Project, the only service project of CSA, will take place on Tuesday, May 24th from 8am to 6pm at the Ukrainian Museum-Archives, a site very close to the symposium hotel. The Angels Project has never before worked at an ethnographic museum and this one has a great story that will appeal to everyone. The Ukrainian Museum-Archives has also invited the Angels to a Monday, May 23rd evening reception starting at 6pm at the museum. Transportation to and from the symposium hotel will be available on Monday and Tuesday. All CSA members are invited to participate. Contact Patti Borrello, Angels Project Volunteer Coordinator, patti.a.borrello@wmich.edu or 269-352-0432, to volunteer

1202 Kenilworth Ave, Cleveland, OH 44113

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Yes, The Ukrainian Museum looks just like a regular neighborhood home, and if you are looking for something to do before the reception, The A Christmas Story House and Museum are located in the same Tremont neighborhood, and open seven days a week from 10am-5pm. The house was recently restored to its filmdom splendor and is open year round to the public for tours. Directly across the street from the house is the official A Christmas Story House Museum, which features original props, costumes and memorabilia from the film, as well as hundreds of rare behind-the-scenes photos. Among the props and costumes are the toys from the Higbee’s window, Randy’s snowsuit, the chalkboard from Miss Shields’ classroom, the family car, and the recently acquired infamous Red Rider BB Gun. After reliving A Christmas Story at Ralphie’s house don’t forget to visit the museum gift shop for

your own Major Award Leg Lamp and other great movie memorabilia. You can even shop online for Full Cleveland reception attire! http://www.achristmasstoryhouse.com/

3159 W 11th St, Cleveland, OH 44109

DON’T CONFUSE THE TWO!

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PRE/POST SYMPOSIUM TOURS

WEDNESDAY, MAY 25 8:30am - 4:30pm All Day Kent State University Tour with optional Tech/Style Lab

Workshop (Kent, Ohio) Cost: $45 Cost with workshop: $75 Workshop Limit: 29 Join us for a pre or post tour to Kent, Ohio to visit the fabulous Kent State University Museum for a gallery and behind the scenes tour, with an optional add-on digital printing workshop at the Fashion School’s TechStyle lab on Wednesday. Those not opting for the workshop will be able to visit collections at the June F. Mohler Fashion Library and relive 1970 history at the recently established May 4th National Historic Site with guided tours. Participants can also visit Downtown Kent and the Fashion School Store for a little shopping. Welcome coffee and a box lunch are included. Museum and Gallery Tour: The museum houses some 30,000 costumes and accessories and 10,000 objects of decorative art from the mid-18th century to the present day. Selections from the collection are exhibited in 8 galleries. On view during the pre and post conference will be: • The Timeline of Fashion • Focus on Fiber: Juried Objects from the Textile Arts Alliance of the Cleveland Museum of Art • Inside Out: Revealing Clothing’s Hidden Secrets • Flapper Style: 1920s Fashion The Museum tour includes a visit to in-progress new compact storage space for the couture collection, and a tour of the period costume storage—something the museum rarely does. Staff will be available to answer questions during the tour about museum and exhibition processes. Tour also includes up-close interaction with a selection of special artifacts from the museum’s collection. TechStyle Lab Workshop: Explore the digital means of reprinting historical textiles from museum archives. Experience the process of sampling a historical textile from the Kent State University Museum. This process is most useful for creating repair pieces for distressed garments or creating opportunities to reintroduce historical textiles in new ways. Learn step by step the best practices associated with selecting a garment for sampling, digital scanning procedures, digital file preparation, and see a demonstration of the printing process. Take away a digitally printed sample at the end of the workshop. Participation is limited to 14-15 individuals per session. There will be one session in the morning and another in the afternoon. Knowledge of Adobe Photoshop is helpful but not required. TechStyleLAB will provide laptops and software. Please bring your own USB Flash Drive to save and take your work. May 4th Visitor Center Tour and Walking Tour/ Fashion Library and Special Collections: • On May 4, 1970, Kent State was placed in an international spotlight after a student protest

against the Vietnam War and the presence of the Ohio National Guard on campus ended in tragedy. Visit the Center exhibit and walk the guided route.

• Visitors will go behind-the-scenes at the June F. Mohler Fashion Library and examine original materials including the Fortunoff collection of original fabric illustrations and swatches from the 1930s thru 1990s, and the Pauline Trigere papers including original designer sketchbooks and collection materials from the 1940s thru 1990s.

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WEDNESDAY, MAY 25 AND SUNDAY, MAY 29 12:00pm - 2:00pm Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Museum

Cost $20 members, $35 non-members Limit 30 each day

Join us for an extremely rare and exciting costume-themed tour of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, developed especially for CSA! The Director of Collections will provide a 30-minute, up-close examination of selected costumes from some of your favorite performers. Also, the Associate Curator will provide a 30-minute costume highlight tour in the gallery. Afterward the attendees will be able to tour the Museum at their leisure. These types of tours are not available for the average visitor. Your CSA membership gives you this opportunity for an exclusive glimpse into this iconic Cleveland museum.

Space is limited to 30, but we have tours organized for both Wednesday and Sunday. Don’t procrastinate with your registration if you want to go behind the scenes! Tours begin at 1:00pm at the museum. Depending on weather and personal stamina, you can walk to the Rock Hall. It is only a 20-minute walk from the hotel. Or we have access to the hotel shuttle (limited seating) beginning at noon so you can arrive early and have lunch in the museum café. The shuttle will also pick up and bring folks back to the hotel. The last shuttle will leave the Rock Hall at 3pm.

We are keeping this tour very affordable by not arranging for additional private bus transportation, but are depending on people to make arrangements to get to the museum on their own if they don’t want to walk, or if they miss the shuttle.

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SUNDAY, MAY 29 9:30am – 2:30pm Kent State University / Museum, Kent Ohio Cost: $35 Limit 29

Travel with us Sunday morning to Kent, Ohio to visit the fabulous Kent State University Museum for a gallery and behind the scenes tour with Jean Druesedow and staff. The museum will open an hour early for us, but before it does, visitors will have an opportunity to relive history at the recently established May 4th National Historic Site and walk the guided tour. Water and snacks provided. May 4th Visitor Center Tour and Walking Tour 10:30-11:30 On May 4, 1970, Kent State was placed in an international spotlight after a student protest against the Vietnam War and the presence of the Ohio National Guard on campus ended in tragedy. View the documentary about the day on an Ipod as you walk the guided route.

Museum and Gallery Tour 11:30-1:30 The museum houses some 30,000 costumes and accessories and 10,000 objects of decorative art from the mid-18th century to the present day. Selections from the collection are exhibited in 8 galleries. On view during the pre and post conference will be: • The Timeline of Fashion • Glass: Selections from the Tarter/Miller Collection • Focus on Fiber: Juried Objects from the Textile Arts Alliance of the Cleveland Museum of Art • Inside Out: Revealing Clothing’s Hidden Secrets • Flapper Style: 1920s Fashion The Museum tour includes a visit to in-progress new compact storage space for the couture collection, and a tour of the period costume storage—something the museum rarely does. Staff will be available to answer questions during the tour about museum and exhibition processes. Tour also includes up-close interaction with a selection of special artifacts from the museum’s collection.

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PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PANELS/WORKSHOPS WEDNESDAY, MAY 25 9:00am - 12noon – Roxy Care and Handling of Costumes Sarah C. Stevens, Zephyr Preservation Studio, LLC Materials Cost: $15 Limit: 20 This workshop will provide an overview of the factors effecting the preservation and care of costume and textiles. Fibers and fabric structures will be reviewed as well as environmental factors such as temperature, relative humidity, light, pests, and mold. Participants will learn about appropriate techniques for handling, storing, and displaying collections.

Cleaning costumes and textiles using a low-suction vacuum, gaining experience boxing costumes, and learning the factors to determine the best mount to display a costume will be explored using hands-on activities.

Participants will be provided with a vacuum kit, preservation tips via pdf files, and sources for supplies.

SARAH C. STEVENS, Principal of Zephyr Preservation Studio, LLC has been practicing textile conservation for 20 years. After graduating from the University of Rhode Island with a M.S. in Historic Costume and Textiles, Sarah spent a year in the Textile Conservation Department at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and another nine months at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, also in New York City. Since September 2000, she has been the Associate Textile Conservator for the New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation’s Bureau of Historic Sites (Peebles Island). Zephyr Preservation Studio opened in 2010 to assist individuals and institutions with the care of their treasured costumes and textiles.

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WEDNESDAY, MAY 25 1:00pm - 4:00pm – Roxy

Learning to Fosshape: An Inexpensive Alternative for Costume Mounts Cynthia Amnéus, Cincinnati Art Museum Materials Cost: $35 Limit: 15 Fosshape is a material new to costume exhibition mounting and can be used to create inexpensive customized mounts for both historic and contemporary fashion. While it is ideal as an alternative for small museums or historical societies with minimal budgets, Fosshape has been utilized at institutions both large and small, including the Kent State University Museum, Cincinnati Art Museum, The Textile Museum, and National Museum of the American Indian. Fosshape has been traditionally used in theatre settings to create lightweight props, scenic elements, puppetry, and costume elements such as millinery and masks. It is a felt-like, white, non-woven, heat-activated fabric that is a 100% polyester polymer blend. When dry or steam heat is applied to the material, it will shrink up to 30%, hardening and conforming to a base form. It can be sewn by hand or machine in both its treated and untreated state. It can be cut to any shape, molded over forms, layered and adhered to itself for additional strength, and dyed, painted, and embellished. More cost effective than traditional mannequins, Fosshape is a versatile material that provides an alternative choice for costumes with many advantages to existing types of mounts. Like polyethylene foam or buckram, it can be customized to the object, but is lighter, easier to work with, and has a smoother, more object-friendly surface. The resulting forms can support accessories including tights, shoes, and hats.

Hopi Butterfly Dancer mannequin before dressing. Image courtesy of Shelly Uhlir, exhibition specialist/mount maker, National Museum of the American Indian, Smithsonian Institution. Photo by Conservation Staff. Conservation testing has indicated Fosshape is safe to use near and in direct contact with objects although an inert barrier is suggested for long term display or storage.1 Fosshape was subjected to the Oddy test, Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) test, XRF analysis, sulfur test using iodine/sodium azide solution, and an acid test using Image Permanence Institute’s A-D Strips.2 This 3-hour workshop will give participants the opportunity to create a Fosshape form of their own using the steam method. They will learn approaches for shaping, modifying, and customizing forms as well as finishing techniques to ready the form for display.

Notes 1. Megan Emery, Lab report for Oddy Test on Fosshape. Cincinnati Art Museum, 2009. 2. Charlotte Eng, Lab report for IPI, Sodium Azide Test, XRF, and FTIR on Fosshape. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Conservation Center, 2011.

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WEDNESDAY, MAY 25 1:00pm - 4:00pm – Hanna Kleibacker Techniques for Successful Bias Cut Construction Joycelyn Burdett, Villa Maria College Materials Cost: $25 Limit: 12 Intended audience – Designers and apparel instructors who have intermediate to advanced skills in apparel construction and strong hand sewing skills. Charles Kleibacker, known in his days as “The Master of the Bias Cut,” worked from his small workshop in New York City from 1960 to 1986. He specialized in softly shaped dresses, which he sold to socialites and high-end stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Bendel’s in New York City. Kleibacker was trained in the couture techniques used in the top salons of New York and Paris. He was an assistant designer in Paris to Antonio del Castillo of the House of Lanvin from 1954 to 1956 and later was an assistant to Eva Rosencranz at Nettie Rosenstein in NY. However, none of these experiences taught him what was needed to create the designs that he envisioned, softly flowing and shapely bias dresses.

Charles was inspired by the beautiful bias cut creations of Madeleine Vionnet. When he opened his own studio in 1960, he was determined to design garments with this same elegance and grace. Since Vionnet was no longer in business and nothing was yet published about her techniques, he had to rely on his own powers of observation and reason to understand and overcome the challenges of constructing garments cut on the bias. The solutions that Kleibacker developed were unique and also satisfied his exacting standards of quality and drape. Though he was producing ready-to-wear, his approach to production in his workshop used couture techniques. Garments cut on the bias are a challenge for even highly skilled dressmakers; often hemlines sag and seam lines ripple due to the fluidity of bias. The beauty of bias is also its bane. What is the trick to taming seam lines on the bias? Kleibacker solved this engineering challenge in a unique and ingenious way. This class will demonstrate the construction techniques developed by Kleibacker. Patterns and Kleibacker garments will be displayed and discussed. Students will learn why Kleibacker always placed the closure of the dress on the straight grain and the specific challenge presented with asymmetrical bias designs. They will learn the couture way of marking the seam lines as well as the importance of basting from the outside. “Holding in” and stretching the bias seams in select places in the garment is unique to Kleibacker construction and is the trick to preventing drooping over time. Students will apply these techniques and more in this session by producing a bias sleeve from a pattern Charles developed and perfected over several years. Students will also learn to do one of his signature design elements, perfect skinny bias strings. All information and techniques were acquired through oral interviews by the author with Charles Kleibacker between December 2006 and June 2007. Photographs gift of Kleibacker.

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WEDNESDAY, MAY 25 2:30pm-4:00pm – Allen Help (Maybe?) Wanted: Navigating the Costume Work Force Carmen N. Keist, Western Illinois University Marcella Martin, Philadelphia University Petra Slinkard, Chicago History Museum Laura L. Camerlengo, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco Cost: $10 Limit: 40 Whether housed in a museum, by a university, or in a designer archive, the care and study of historic costume collections offers myriad career choices; however, the job market often does not match the number of emerging professionals looking for their dream career. Interest in clothing exhibited as objects in museums is ever growing, as evidenced by internationally-known, block-buster shows like “Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty,” which has already been displayed at The Metropolitan Museum of Art and was recently exhibited at The Victoria and Albert Museum. Both museums documented record-breaking attendance.1 Nevertheless, the curators often creating these exhibitions arrived in their position through a roundabout way without a clear, linear career path. Costume collections can also be found in universities, colleges, and communities across the United States and can range from a few hundred items to thousands. Oftentimes, the faculty or staff in charge of these collections are also expected to teach, research, and serve their community.2 Curatorship, regardless of setting, is a hard career to navigate with many twists and turns. 1 Eliza Brooke, “’Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty’ Beat Attendance Records in London, Too,” Fashionista, August 4, 2015, accessed September 23, 2015, http://fashionista.com/2015/08/savage-beauty-victoria-albert 2 Sara B Marcketti, Janet E Fitzpatrick, Carmen N Keist, and Sara J Kadolph, ”University Historic Clothing Museums and Collections: Practices and Strategies.” The Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 29, no. 3 (2011): 248-262.

The purpose of this professional development panel is to provide guidance and advice to incoming and current students, recent graduates, and emerging professionals looking to pursue careers working with historic costume collections. With diverse backgrounds and career training, the panelists will address the idiosyncrasies of their respective positions in academia, museums, and the private sector. From integrating historic collections into undergraduate history of costume courses to utilizing collections to create exhibitions and programs that form a hub of scholarship and learning for local, national and international audiences, the full range of their respective job functions will be explored. In addition to discussing their professional experiences and current roles, the panelists will explore educational options with different degree programs to follow; provide advice on networking, interviewing and resume writing; and address non-traditional career paths. This 90-minute panel will conclude with a question-and-answer session.

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FRIDAY, MAY 27 3:40pm-5:10pm – State

Managing Costume Collections: An Inquisitive and Interactive Panel for the Collector, Historian, Teacher, Curator, Designer or Collection Manager Louise Coffey-Webb, Costume Consultant, Los Angeles Susan Neill, Exhibition Project Manager, Field Museum, Chicago Bobi Garland, Private Collection Consultant, Los Angeles

• Participants will learn strategies to address issues in their costume collections as well as a peer network for additional collection management troubleshooting, and support post-symposium.

• Attendees will complete a brief questionnaire at the start of the session that will inform the program. Panelists will each give a presentation illustrating particular collection challenges, unusual situations, or discoveries, followed by discussion of specific and/or recurrent issues identified, plus open Q & A. Example topics bulleted below:

Louise Coffey-Webb (Moderator): • Introduction of panel and session itinerary • Some philosophies of collection management • Mapping out plans for assessing and inventorying collections Susan Neill: • Considerations for creating a Collection Development Policy • Exploring different functions of collections, e.g. preservation vs exhibition and accessibility • Examining possible conflicts of interest between management, curatorial and conservation functions Bobi Garland: • Interns, work experience and volunteers: benefits and challenges • Integrating personnel resources into an overall management plan • Researching: aligning expectations of the researcher and the institution Coordinated responses to questionnaires will be addressed post presentations (time permitting) including topics such as: • Creatively overcoming budgetary constraints and collection backlogs • Addressing your biggest challenges • Record-keeping, digitization, and photography • Disaster Preparedness: “Acts of God” and “Acts of Terrorism” • Help from peers and colleagues in other institutions or companies • Is it time for a Costume and Textile Consortium on collection management? • Available resources and handout sheet of information • Summary of different approaches to collection management Louise Coffey-Webb: Author, Managing Costume Collections: An Essential Primer, CSA Series, Texas Tech University Press, 2016. Consultant to The James G. Galanos Foundation, former Curator, Collection Manager and Consultant to many institutions including LACMA, FIDM Museum, Audrey Hepburn Foundation Collection, Sony Pictures Entertainment Archives, Warner Bros. Museum, Zandra Rhodes Enterprises. Bobi Garland, Costume Consultant to Walt Disney Animation Studios, UCLA Oral History Department, specializing in oral histories of film costumers and artisans, and Electronic Arts Games; former Director of Western Costume Research Library and Costume Archive, including advising and sponsoring over 200 interns and fieldwork students. Susan Neill, Formerly Costume Consultant to Western Reserve Historical Society, Textiles Reviewer for National Museum of African American History and Culture, Curator of Textiles and Social History at Atlanta History Center, Hope B. McCormick Costume Fellow at Chicago Historical Society.

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SATURDAY, MAY 28 10:45-12:30 – Allen Identifying and Re-Creating Civilian Fashions in the American Civil War Julie Burnsides Diaz, Independent Researcher

Cost (if not signed up for symposium): $25 Limit: 50 This session is geared toward re-enactors, costumers, first-person interpreters, and supervisors at small historic sites, but all are welcome.

Although re-enactors and interpreters who focus on military impressions often have a wealth of reliable information available to them in order to create an accurate American Civil War impression, those portraying or dressing civilians face a far more nebulous undertaking. Misinformation abounds, and can be very difficult to separate from good, scholarly research. The popularity of the time period in film and television can further compound the issue, leading to docents dressed as Scarlett O’Hara at a historic site and calling the credibility of the entire interpretation program into question.

This session will examine the wealth of information available regarding American civilian clothing 1861-1865. It will discuss existing primary source material and how to access it, including using museum and library research appointments to their fullest, and where to look for sources.

Because individuals and small sites often don’t have the budget to comparison shop, we will present a side-by-side comparison of garments made from several popular commercial patterns, from larger

companies like Simplicity to smaller ones such as Period Impressions, as well as discuss the use and re-creation of original patterns from sources such as Godey's Ladies’ Book and Peterson's Magazine. We will analyze the accuracy and ease of use of the displayed patterns, and compare the finished garments made from them to extant 19th century garments to identify differences and discuss the reasoning and necessity of “modernizing” patterns and identify opportunities for improvement.

We will also provide an overview of all pieces necessary for a single individual's wardrobe, both male and female, with discussion of the context of wear. A handout will be provided containing many resources for required items to complete accurate reproductions, and fabric and fiber choices will be addressed.

If you have pieces in your wardrobe or your site’s that you would like to compare to the original pieces or receive advice on, please bring the garments or photographs of them and we will discuss them as a group, time permitting.

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SATURDAY, MAY 28 1:30-3:00pm – Stillman

Using Historic Costume in the Classroom: Three Examples from the Field Sherri Saines, Reference Librarian, Human and Consumer Sciences, Ohio

University [Moderator] Trina Gannon, Instructor in Retail and Fashion Product Development, and Assistant

Curator, Doxsee Collection of Historic Textiles, Ohio University Dr. Constance Korosec, Professor, Chair Fashion Design and Merchandising, Curator,

Ursuline College Marlise Schoeny, Assistant Curator, Historic Costume and Textiles Collection, Ohio State

University “Modernizing History: Using Historic Costume Collections and Library Resources in Retail Merchandising” Trina Gannon and Sherri Saines, Ohio University, Athens, Ohio

The Mary C. Doxsee Collection (MCD) at Ohio University houses over 3,000 items. It is used in the Color Theory for Visual Merchandising class by integrating items from the collection into a final project involving CAD (Computer Aided Design). Students design a retail space inspired by an artifact from the collection that they have chosen and researched with help from our subject librarian--what was happening socially and economically in that particular era, and then design a space using color theories and retail principles to create a store centered on those concepts.

One of the main goals of using the MCD collection is to inform students about historic dress as the department no longer has a course to teach that particular topic anymore. Another goal is to get the collection into the classroom so students can feel like they are helping to improve the knowledge base of the collection to better inform future students. Yet another goal is familiarizing students with library resources in costume history. Students have expressed their enthusiasm in learning about the collection and this has helped in a myriad of ways including with internships. “How to Create and Use a Historical Study Collection: To Enhance the History of Costume for your Students” Dr. Connie Korosec, Ursuline College, Pepper Pike, OH Presenting on mannequins examples of early garage sale gifts which evolved into acquiring

designer pieces for a ‘historical study collection’ Discussing how to use such a collection, via assessment and outcomes in the classroom with

actual student research projects. “Creating an Interactive Database to Incorporate a Costume Collection in K-12 Classrooms” Marlise Schoeny, The Ohio State University

One of the main goals when we originally began creating our online database, Fashion2Fiber, was to digitize those artifacts frequently used in the classroom whose condition was becoming too fragile for continued use. By creating a comprehensive digital record, these primary sources can continue to be of use to our undergraduate students in the history of fashion course. As the database developed, however, we saw an opportunity to expand the use of these artifacts beyond the traditional fashion courses. This led us to apply for an Institute of Museum and Library Services grant to engage teachers in grades K-12 in the use of historic costume in their lesson plans. The goal of the resulting week-long program was to work with these teachers to create lesson plans that utilized historic garments as a way to teach students specific information to meet the Common Core Standards. It was very successful with teachers in the subject areas of history, language arts and others, creating useful lesson plans for the ensuing school year.

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SUNDAY, MAY 29 9am-12noon Roxy

Photography of Historic Collections Dr. Anne Bissonnette, University of Alberta Charity Calvin, Iowa State University Cost: $15 Limit: 10 This workshop is for individuals working with clothing and textile artifacts in institutions where there is limited or no access to professional photographers on staff. It will cover the basics of photography so that participants may create publishable quality visuals for print articles and Internet use. The session will cover lighting, composition, how to use a DSLR camera (basic settings & file formats), the use of light meters (the one integrated in the camera and an external one) and the use of the tripod. Editing and color corrections of the visuals taken will also be covered briefly. To discuss image manipulation, we will address a few features of Adobe Photoshop® that are essential to obtain publishable visuals. These include image adjustments such as size, resolution and rotation. Image adjustments such as color balance, brightness and contrast will also be explained.

Lastly, we will address how to isolate a subject and edit backdrops if there is time or if some participants are more advanced than others.

White cotton muslin dress with silver foil decoration, 1808-1812. Artifact from the University of Alberta School of Household Economics (1974.9.4) adopted by Peggy Isley, March 2013. Worn with: square silk and wool turnover shawl with red field and multicolored decorative borders, Europe, 1810-1830. Artifact donated by Janice Hanson (1997.4.1) adopted by Peggy Isley, March 2013; black silk satin slipper shoes, Canada, 1820-1830s. Artifact donated by Jim Whittome (2001.6.8ab). Clothing and Textiles Collection, Department of Human Ecology, University of Alberta. Photograph by Anne Bissonnette ©

The goal of this three hour session is to teach learners how to take good pictures under budgetary constraints and what types of equipment are ideal if you have some funds to invest. It is recommended that participants bring their cameras and laptops with a copy of Photoshop installed, if possible. Participants may also use the teachers’ equipment but may have to wait their turn if they choose to do so.

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SYMPOSIUM HIGHLIGHTS

FULL CLEVELAND RECEPTION and

JOAN SEVERA “DRESSED FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER” FUNDRAISER

Following the Keynote address on Wednesday evening, the Midwestern Region invites everyone to a “Full Cleveland” Reception, which will include a Joan Severa “Dressed for the Photographer” Fundraiser. You may come in your “Full Cleveland” best (white shoes and matching white belt on leisure suit if you can manage that) or we can certainly provide you with an opportunity for a selfie with a Full Cleveland-attired gent. Joan Severa, long-standing member of the Midwestern Region, passed away in March 2015. Author of Dressed for the Photographer and My Likeness Taken, the region and symposium planners would like to honor her and her commitment to CSA with a fund-raiser to benefit the organization and Midwestern Region’s Otto Thieme student internship. Come “dressed for the photographer” in your best attire, period garb, or full Cleveland gear. A photo booth will be available to document the historic occasion, for a donation of course!

CLEVELAND MUSEUM OF ART The Cleveland Museum of Art is renowned for the quality and breadth of its collection, which includes almost 45,000 objects and spans 6,000 years of achievement in the arts. Having recently completed an ambitious, multi-phase renovation and expansion project across its campus, the museum is a significant international forum for exhibitions, scholarship, performing arts and art education. One of the top comprehensive art museums in the nation and free of charge to all, the Cleveland Museum of Art is located in the dynamic University Circle neighborhood. The museum is especially strong in the field of Asian art, possessing one of the best collections in the U.S.

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WESTERN RESERVE HISTORICAL SOCIETY The Cleveland History Center houses exhibits that tell the story of Northeast Ohio through items, documents and artifacts from a variety of collections. Western Reserve Historical Society was founded in 1867 to preserve and present the history of all of the people of Northeast Ohio. Today, WRHS is one of the largest regional historical societies in the nation with a mission to inspire people to discover the American experience by exploring the tangible history of Northeast Ohio. Our collections are made accessible to the public through our two primary venues: the History Center in Cleveland’s University Circle and Hale Farm & Village in the Cuyahoga Valley National Park near Bath, Ohio.

SCHOLARS’ ROUND TABLE Saturday May 28 10:45am-12:15pm

Everyone Their Own Curator: Professionalism and Authority in the Digital Age

Carl Becker, in his 1931 address to the American Historical Association, transformed the study of history by comparing the mundane tasks of remembering and recording used by “Mr. Everyman” and the work of professional historians. The difference, Becker insisted, was that Mr. Everyman was being his own historian, but professionals were charged with writing “everyone’s history” and held to a higher standard of authority.

The 2016 Scholar’s Roundtable will consider the role of the dress scholar in an age when technology and culture have enabled everyone to be their own curator. Once an arcane term familiar mainly to museum professionals, “curation” has become the new buzzword for gathering, organizing and presenting everything from online content to one’s seasonal wardrobe. This emergence of ubiquitous curation has resulted in the phenomenon of museums mounting exhibits curated by non-museum professionals. At the Design Exchange in Toronto, the exhibition, Politics of Fashion/Fashion of Politics was curated by “international fashion icon,” journalist Jeanne Beker. Another variation is the self-curated fashion designer, such as the Jean-Pierre Gauthier exhibition.

What does curation mean when everyone is a potential curator? Is “good curating” or “bad curating” a matter of academic credentials or professional titles or lack of them? Is "curating" information in the form of a book or website or "curating" an archive the same as curating a collection or exhibition of objects? Where does publication fit in, especially in a digital environment which makes everyone their own publisher?

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Juried Design Exhibition Selections Amethyst Royalty Julie Burnsides Diaz, Independent Researcher Amorphous Rift Kim Hahn, Kent State University California Nancy Martin, San Francisco University Chute Theresa Winge, Michigan State University Collective Reflection Kendra Lapolla, Kent State University Frayed Elegance Lynn Boorady, Buffalo State Hidden Memories: Forgotten Prayers 1 Michael Mamp, Central Michigan University Hidden Words: Down the Rabbit Hole Michael Mamp, Central Michigan University In the Spirit Otsuzure M. Jo Kallal, University of Delware Kelpies and Spiraled Connections April Elisha Stanley, Iowa State University Lady Bracknell Angela Bacarisse, Stephen F. Austin University Natural Flow Chanjuan Chen, Kent State University Now and Forever Ja Young Hwang, Kent State and Shan Gao, University of Arkansas Parhelion Dawn Kim Hahn, Kent State University Russia Sara Jablon, Iowa State University The Secret Garden Dreamer Man Leon Wieber, Loyola Marymount University The Secret Garden Lily Leon Wieber, Loyola Marymount University The Starry Night Gypsy Ames, The Colorado College Transparent Pannier Colleen Mortez, Transmorphic Spiral Helen Koo and Mai Vang, University of California Davis Underwater Coral Jennise Thurston, Central Michigan University Vitreous Fractures Kim Hahn, Kent State University You’ve Come a Long Way Baby Susan Avila, University of California Davis

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Juried Poster Presentations From Trash to Fashion: The Ash Can Hats of the 1930s – 1950s Jennifer Farley Gordon and Sara B. Marcketti, Iowa State University African Fables as Inspiration for Exhibition Design: Singed—How the Zebra Got its Stripes Tameka N. Ellington, Kent State University Plain Sewing Samplers and Sewing Instruction in the Nineteenth/Early Twentieth Century Sally Helvenston Gray, Michigan State University Globalization of Western and Middle Eastern Cultures through Fashion Rebekah Silver Jackson, affiliation From ‘Mannish’ to ‘Gamine’: Androgyny’s Shifting Lexicon in the Late 20th Century Dr. Katie Baker Jones, West Virginia University Costume Core: A Detailed System for Digital Catalogs of Historic Clothing Arden Kirkland, Vassar College Costume Collection Changing Gender Views on Individual Height of Korean Young Professionals Kyung Eun Lee, Iowa State University Humans of Uniqlo: Identity, Aesthetics and Glamour Labor in Brand Growth Myles Ethan Lascity, Drexel University Modern Mayan Fashion Angelina Martin, Fashion Designer Hickson Inc.: Branding, Trademarks and the Selling of Design Jean Parsons, University of Missouri Sara Marcketti, Iowa state University The Unofficial Preppy Uniform: Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow Cody Risinger and Catherine Amoroso Leslie, Kent State University Piecing Together the Details: Eighteenth-century Women’s Cap Construction Sherri B. Saines, Alden Library, Ohio University Searching for Answers: the Discovery of an Unidentified Coat in the University of Rhode Island Costume Collection Pam Sebor-Cable, Framingham State University Hair and Hairdressing as Cultural Science in the Second Half of the Eighteenth Century Brenna Buchanan, Iowa State University

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Thursday/Friday Evening Special Group Meetings Room ˅ Day/Time > Thursday 530-730 or later Friday 600-730 or later Roxy Symposium Advisory Board Hanna Allen 530-630 All About Dress and

CSA eNews Q&A session 630-730 Publications Committee Meeting

State (t) 530 Guatemala/Honduras Study Tour 2017 Interest Group

Stillman (Friday only) XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Palace West (t) (t) = laptop hookup equipped

Guatemala and Honduras Study Tour 2017

Plans are underway for a Costume Society of America Study Tour to Guatemala and Honduras in May 2017. If you are interested in this adventure, please gather with colleagues to enjoy a brief power point, share show-and-tell treasures from Guatemala, and join the anticipation of exploring Guatemalan traje. Contact Vicki Berger with questions v.berger@cox.net

All About Dress and CSA eNews Are you thinking of writing up and submitting your research to Dress, CSA's peer-reviewed journal? Want to know more about the journal and the editorial process? Join Dress editor Tina Bates and members of the editorial board for an informal Q&A. We welcome all questions, from proposal to submission to publication. Want to know more about submitting events, exhibitions, books, and current topics of interest to CSA eNews? Join eNews editor Jennifer Mower to learn more about topics of particular interest for CSA eNews.

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COSTUME SOCIETY OF AMERICA 2016 SYMPOSIUM THE FULL CLEVELAND MAY 25-28, 2016 CLEVELAND, OHIO

REGISTRATION FORM/INFORMATION

!!REGISTER ONLINE!! http://costumesocietyamerica.com/national-symposia/proceedings/

or use form below and mail to:

Costume Society of America P.O. Box 852 Columbus, GA 31902-0852

Questions? Call or email: 1-800-CSA-9447 or 706-615-2851 national.office@costumesocietyamerica.com

I am a Member I am a Non-Member

______________________________________________________________________________ Name ___________________________________________________________________ Mailing Address ___________________________________________________________________ City/State/Zip/Country ___________________________________________________________________ Phone number ___________________________________________________________________ Email address ___________________________________________________________________ Emergency Contact: Name/Phone ___________________________________________________________________ Name/Affiliation (as you would like them to appear on your nametag) Check boxes or fill in blanks that apply � I am a new CSA member � This is my first symposium � I would like to share a hotel room � I would like a mentor � I volunteer to be a mentor � I have a disability requiring special accommodations (National Office will contact you) I have dietary needs: � Vegetarian � Other________________________________________ Select your choice for Friday's box lunch Each lunch contains: whole fruit, bagged chips or pretzels, cookie, bottled water, choice of pre-made wrap: �Sliced Roast Beef, Cheddar Cheese, Caramelized Onions, Served with a Mild Horseradish Sauce in a Wheat Tortilla �Turkey Breast, Bacon, Lettuce & Tomato, Served with a Dijon Mayonnaise in a Spinach Tortilla �Grilled Vegetables, Goat Cheese & Lettuce, Served with an Herbed Mayonnaise in a Tomato Tortilla

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THIS YEAR’S SYMPOSIUM IS SPONSORED IN PART BY

WOULD YOU LIKE to help with the symposium this year by becoming a sponsor? Add a small donation to your registration to help out at the following levels. We will add your name to the symposium sponsor list in the printed proceedings! Levels: QUARTER CLEVELAND $10

HALF CLEVELAND $25 FULL CLEVELAND $50 WHOLE CANNOLI $100

Fees received by April 9, 2016 Apr 10-May 1, 2016 Early Regular

FULL SYMPOSIUM: MAY 25 – 28, 2016 Wednesday evening-Saturday: Includes keynote address and reception, 3 continental breakfasts, 3 lunches, Thursday museum visits, Design exhibit, plus printed symposium proceedings Member, Full conference $365 $465 Student Member, Full conference $295 $395 Non-member, Full conference $450 $550 TWO DAY REGISTRATION (THURS/FRI OR FRI/SAT) Thurs/Fri: Includes 2 continental breakfasts and 2 lunches and museum visits Fri/Sat: Includes 2 continental breakfasts and 2 lunches Member, (Thurs-Fri / Fri-Sat) $245 / $255 $295 / $305 Student Member, (Thurs-Fri / Fri-Sat) $195 / $205 $245 / $255 Non-member, (Thurs-Fri / Fri-Sat) $300 / $310 $350 / $360 ONE DAY REGISTRATION (THURS/FRI/SAT) Thursday: Includes continental breakfast, lunch and museum visits Friday: Includes continental breakfast and lunch Saturday: Includes continental breakfast and lunch Member $165 $190 Student Member $115 $140 Non-member $200 $225

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Fees received by April 9, 2016 Apr 10-May 1, 2016 Early Regular

SPECIAL FUNCTION GUEST PASS WEDNESDAY, MAY 25 Keynote address

Member or Non-Member $30 $35 Keynote reception

Member or Non-Member $35 $40 PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP SESSIONS (Registration for workshops is on a first-come, first-served basis) WEDNESDAY, MAY 25 9am-noon Care and Handling of Costumes

Limit 20 Member or Guest $15 $15

1pm-4pm Learning to Fosshape

Limit 15 Member or Guest $35 $35

1pm-4pm Kleibacker Techniques

Limit 12 Member or Guest $25 $25

2:30pm-4pm Help (Maybe?) Wanted

Limit 40 Member or Guest $10 $10

SATURDAY, MAY 28 10:45am-12:30 Identifying Civil War Fashions

a la carte (if not registered for symposium) Limit 50 Member or Guest $25 $25

SUNDAY, MAY 29 9am-noon Photography of Historic Collections

Limit 10 Member or Guest $15 $15

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PRE/POST SYMPOSIUM TOUR SESSIONS (Registration for tours is on a first-come, first-served basis) WEDNESDAY, MAY 25 All Day Kent State University Tour (bus, museum admission, coffee and lunch included)

Limit 29 Member or Guest $45

Optional Tech/Style Lab workshop Limit 29

Member of Guest $30 Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Museum Limit 30

Member / Non-Member $20 / $35 SUNDAY, MAY 29 Kent State University Tour (bus, museum admission and snack included)

Limit 29 Member or Guest $35

Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Museum Limit 30

Member / Non-Member $20 / $35 Total Fees: Workshops __________________ Pre-Symposium Tours __________________ Symposium Registration __________________ Special Function Guest Pass __________________ Post Symposium Tour __________________ Sponsorship __________________ Total Payment __________________ � check enclosed � charge to credit card � MasterCard � Visa � America Express � Discover Expiration____/____/____ Account #_____________________________ Cardholder's Name__________________________ Cardholder's Signature_________________________________________ Cancellation Policy: Registration fee refunded minus $50 administrative fee if cancelled by May 16, 2016. No refund after May 16, 2016. Costume Society of America P.O. Box 852 Columbus, GA 31902-0852

All times, speakers and sessions are tentative and subject to change

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WYNDHAM CLEVELAND AT PLAYHOUSE SQUARE

1260 Euclid Avenue Cleveland, OH 44115 US 1-216-615-7500 1-877-999-3223 (reservations) In the Theater District, one mile from the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and four miles from the museums at University Circle.

We have negotiated a group rate of $139/night for run of house and king rooms. This rate is available 2 days prior and 2 days after the meeting dates of May 24-29, 2016 for those of you who would like to extend your stay. Call the hotel directly or Wyndham’s toll free reservations number provided above and tell them you are with Costume Society of America. If registering online, the group code is 0524142CO For budgeting purposes, rooms are subject to state/local taxes of 16.5% [State 8%, lodging 5.5%, city 3%] Reservations must be received by April 27, 2016 Parking is available $10 daily, $20 overnight Check in 3pm, check out 12pm

Lobby Double Room

Blue Bar Encore Restaurant

Outdoor Terrace Pool and Fitness Center

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CLEVELAND HIGHLIGHTS, LOCALLY RECOMMENDED

Cleveland is FULL of many things to do on your own. Here is just a sampling of sites in addition to those we will be visiting during the conference, recommended by CSA locals

LAKEVIEW CEMETERY As a tourist destination, The Lake View Cemetery offers a variety of walking, bus, and self-guided tours. Among the tour topics are geology, architecture, horticulture, nature, animals, and history. Some well-known attractions include the Garfield Monument, Wade Chapel, the Rockefeller Monument, Community Mausoleum and the Lake View Cemetery Dam. Open April 1 - November 19, seven days a week, 9:00 am - 4:00 pm. Both buildings are staffed with interpretive guides during open hours. The Wade Chapel features a window by Louis Comfort Tiffany Studios. OHIO CITY AND WESTSIDE MARKET Ohio City, located just west of Downtown Cleveland and the Cuyahoga River, sits at the center of the City's Near West Side. Constructed in 1912, the West Side Market in particular became a neighborhood focal point and source of community interaction. Josiah Barber, the first mayor of Ohio City, together with pioneer Richard Lord, deeded the site to Cleveland on the condition that it remain a marketplace. Recent rehabilitation projects have focused on commercial development, including expanded storefront renovation, multi-million-dollar renovation of the West Side Market, and an RTA station built in 1992. New vitality and neighborhood interest have taken the shape of newly constructed condominiums and townhouses throughout the neighborhood, as well as a thriving retail and restaurant scene. LITTLE ITALY In the mid-1800s an Italian sculptor Joseph Carrabelli began his famous granite and marble works at the top of the ‘hill’ on Mayfield Rd. The area between the railroad and the top of the ‘hill’ became home to Carrabelli and the many Italian families that came to Cleveland to work, and Little Italy was born. Today the traditions hold strong with the rich cultural heritage and the spirit of artistry that Carabelli began over 130 years ago. Over 20 galleries, 15 restaurants, many professional-service businesses, two schools and Holy Rosary Church thrive in this village. Historic Little Italy in Cleveland, Ohio is located adjacent to the city’s cultural district, University Circle. Case Western Reserve University, several museums, the world-famous symphony, and botanical garden are within walking distance of Little Italy. GREAT LAKES BREWERY Great Lakes Brewing Company is a brewery and brewpub in Cleveland, Ohio. It is the first brewpub and microbrewery in Ohio. The company was established in 1988 by brothers Patrick and Daniel Conway in Cleveland's Ohio City neighborhood. Tours are offered of the brewery or visitors can order a pint at the taproom's beautiful Tiger Mahogany bar, where the "untouchable" Eliot Ness once sat. 5TH STREET ARCADES The 5th Street Arcades are situated in the heart of downtown Cleveland, running parallel between East 4th and East 6th Streets, bound by Euclid and Prospect Avenues at each end. These century-old shopping arcades are unique architectural landmarks. The Colonial Arcade, built in 1898, and the Euclid Arcade, constructed in 1911, were connected in 2000. In 2012, Cumberland Development assumed management of these beautiful arcades, and worked diligently to revitalize the spaces, taking the property from half empty to nearly full occupancy in just nine months, filling all vacant spaces with unique, local retail.

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SILENT AUCTION Help us raise funds to support projects and services that benefit CSA members — and weed out your bookshelves and closets at the same time! Please donate costume related books and magazines, wearable art, vintage treasures, lace, trims, jewelry, buttons, scarves and accessories (we are not doing a shoe or scarf exchange this year so bring them to the silent auction!), and other items of interest to CSA members. (In general, these should fit into the winning bidder’s suitcase.) Donations of professional services are also welcome. Donations are tax deductible. Please mail your donation(s) ahead of time if possible. (Just stuff as much as possible into a flat-rate box.) If bringing to Symposium, please indicate on form. Name_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Address______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ City_____________________________________________________________ State _____________Zip Code________________________________ Phone _____________________________________________Email____________________________________________________________________ Business, institution or individual to be listed in credits and acknowledgments: ________________________________________________________________________________________ Item Description Value Reserve

Price (optional)

Check if bringing to symposium

Check if mailing item in advance

Mail form and donation postmarked by May 15, 2016 to: Catherine Amoroso Leslie 332 Afton Avenue Akron, OH 44313 Questions? Contact: Catherine at 330-389-3534 or cleslie1@kent.edu Note: In exceptional cases, an unsold item may be returned if the donor specifies beforehand and picks it up or pays

postage.