textile collectionsamples 6-10

calicoducklawnoxford clothvoile

sample 1calico

fiber content: cotton and blends; usually with polyester

yarn:carded-only yarns fabric construction:balanced plain weave

weights, uses:top weight; used for shirts, dresses, curtains, accessories (typical fabric for patchwork quilts, ragdolls) name:from the town of Calicut on the southwestern coast of India—this was Vasco da Gama’s first Indian port of call, 1498

sample 2duck

fiber content: usually made of cotton or blends, except for sails (original use) where MF fibers, notably special UV resistant nylon are used

yarn:carded-only yarns

fabric construction:close plain weave; fairly well balanced for greatest strength, but also may be ribbed

weights, uses:usually bottom weight or heavier; used for sportswear, workwear, slipcovers, drapes, artwork ground, awnings, deck chairs, tents and other protective coverings, sails

name:possibly from the Dutch doek, meaning linen canvas

sample 3lawn

usually made of cotton or blends, but fine lawn is still made of flax; best quality in cotton is long staple

yarn:fine yarns, best-quality cotton will be combed, may be mercerized

fabric construction:usually balanced plain weave; finish is usually soft, may be more crisp or may have a slight luster

weights, uses:top weight, may be sheer; used for blouses, shirts, dresses, underwear, nightwear, handkerchiefs

name:another French linen center, Laon, gives its name to lawn

sample 4oxford cloth

fiber content: often still 100% cotton, may be a blend with polyester or rayon

yarn:

fabric construction:usually 2 x 1 basket plain weave; warp is two finer yarns carried as one, weft is a single yarn, thicker than the warp with a softer twist; if warp yarns are dyed and weft yarns left undyed, the fabric is called oxford chambray

weights, uses:top weight; important shirting fabric; also used for dresses, sportswear and pajamas

name: recorded as being either (1) one of a group of shirting fabrics made by a Scottish firm and given names of famous universities, or (2) simply popular with students at Oxford University

sample 5voile

fiber content: cotton and blends; the best quality is long staple; there is also a wool voile, which is very similar to nun’s veiling

yarn:cotton type uses fine, high-twist, combed yarn for smoothness in good-quality voile; the high-twist yarn gives firmness; the very best quality will be 2-ply twist-on-twist yarn, plied in the same direction as the singles; wool voiles also made of high-twist yarns

fabric construction:balanced, open plain weave for sheer fabric; lower quality cotton voile may have a stiffening (sizing) added in finishing; best quality cotton voile is gassed so that the gas flame burns off any protruding fiber ends

weights, uses:light, sheer fabric, used for lingerie, nightwear, blouses, shirts, dresses, curtains

name:French voile, meaning veil; nun’s veiling is used for religious clothing