TELIA RUMAL-YARN-RESIST-DYED TEXTILE

Production clusters

Prakasam district:

Chirala

Nalgonda district:

Puttapaka

Koyalagudem

Choutupal

Products

Double and single squared rumaal

Sari-draped cloth

Dupatta-veils

Tools

Maggam-loom

Achhu-healds

Panni-reed

Aasu-warping frame

Chitkipita-weft ikat frame

Kami-throw shuttle

Nadi-fly shuttle

Raatnam-yarm winder

THE TELIA RUMAL,chowka,square,Asia rumaal,indicate the cloth with patterns created by an exacting process of tying and dyeing the threads prior to weaving.Telia is derived from the use of tel,oil,that is used to soften the yarn in preparation for dyeing,and rumaal means a handkerchief.The cotton cloths measuring 44X44 inches were exported to Myanmar,west Asia and east Africa.The fishermen in Mumbai and Andhra used then as lungi(loincloth),turban or shoulder cloths.The telia rumaal has a square format enclosed by red broad borders.Within this concentric structure,are featured geometric and figurative designs in single and double ikat techniques in black,red and white.The wrap and weftd yarns were dyed in natural madder that was later replace with alizarin dye.After dyeing,the yarns were treated in oil to give them a deeper shade of red thus imparting an oily texture and smell.Telia rumal are woven in pairs.The rectangular telia dupatta was used as a veil by Muslim women and as a multipurpose cloth by men.Telia rumal has been the mainstay of ikat in Andhra.Having originated in Chirala,the skills spread to Nalgonda district where ikat weaving is more vibrant than in Chirala.The festival of India exhibitions and design interventions restored the artisty of telia rumaal and enlarged the vocabulary of ikat weaving in the region.

1. A modern interpretation of telia rumal developed for a sari.The sari is predominantly white with coloured borders and a pallu or cross border with squares based on the delta rumal traditions.

2. Telia rumal with a geometrical pattern woven with ikat or tie-resist-dyed warp and weft.

3. Telia rumal with a chaupad or dice game design woven with double ikat and single ikat used in the field.

4. The inner square of the telia rumal with contemporary motifs such as clocks,birds and flowers.

5. Telia rumal,44x44" in size,with a pattern formed by tie-resist-dyed warp and weft stripes.

6. Rumal with motifs of mathikai,a local fruit,and mallipu or jasmine.