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GALLIVANTING IN THE GALÁPAGOS

When you can witness the birth of sea lions, swim with penguins and spot flamingos wading in craters, the definition of luxury takes

on a whole new meaning, even aboard a 124-foot yacht.Wo r d s – C e c i l e G a u e r t

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W e’re just a little more than one hour into the flight from Guayaquil, Ecuador’s commercial hub, when the crew starts preparing to land on Baltra, a flat island and

former U.S. army base in the Galápagos. I expect to hear about seat belts and tray tables and I have my finger on the armrest ready to straighten my seat, when I hear something a little out of the ordinary: “Insecticide will be applied to the interior of the cabin.” As if on cue, a steward comes down the aisle, systematically spraying the contents of a canister inside overhead compartments. A few passengers shift uncomfortably in their seats and lean away from the center aisle. Suddenly I feel a little like an intruder — and it won’t be the only time on this trip.

The reason for this precaution is clear. It does not take much to tip the delicate balance in this special world that straddles the Equator in the Pacific. Invaders can wipe out entire species. One such culprit identified a few years ago is a fly whose larvae feed on the brain of baby finches. The numbers of these birds unique to the Galápagos have been dwindling to the point that they may become extinct within a few decades. The poster boy of extinction in the Galápagos, however, is a Pinta Island male tortoise nicknamed Lonesome George.

He was the last of the island’s giant tortoises when he died of old age in June 2012, leaving behind “Don Fausto,” his caretaker of 40 years. Tortoises were once prized as both trophies and food. Sailors from passing ships

captured tortoises that they kept alive, upside down in the ship’s cargo hold, as a source of fresh food during long passages. A few of Pinta’s tortoises escaped the fate of their brethren and “George,” who scientists think came out of a nest sometime in 1910, became the last one standing. Discovered in 1972, the tortoise showed little interest in the females introduced to him and when he finally did, he proved sterile. He left no descendant and everyone believed the Pinta tortoise extinct — that was until recently. Scientists found close relatives of George’s family on a nearby island and, through gene selection, may be able to revive the Pinta Island’s tortoise subspecies. The story of Lonesome George has helped raise the profile of conservation organizations, such as the U.S.-based Galápagos Conservancy (see sidebar, page 248).

Most of the Galápagos (97 percent is the official number) are protected as a national park that encompasses roughly 1.7 million acres of volcanic land and clear water. The islands’ location at the confluence of several strong currents is what makes them a “Hotel California” of sorts for the animals who accidentally landed on their shores. With the prevalent winds blowing away from the South American continent and the huge distance to the nearest land, essentially once here, they can never leave. As a result, the Galápagos have animals that exist nowhere else; for instance, the only colony of penguins to live on the Equator and marine iguanas that feed on algae.

You can swim with sea lions, dodge darting penguins

The Galápagos is a “Hotel California” of sorts for the animals

who accidentally landed on its shores.

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and stand practically nose-to-beak with red-throated frigates and blue-footed boobies. It feels at once eerie and wonderful to get so close to animals that have no compulsion to flee, and it makes the Galápagos an irresistible destination for animal lovers, photographers and even seasoned biologists.

The most populous islands, Santa Cruz and San Cristobal, have hotels and luxury eco-resorts that are very much in vogue, but the best way to appreciate the archipelago’s rich diversity, especially on a first-time trip, is by boat. While possible, taking a private vessel to the Galápagos is a lengthy and difficult process that requires, among other things, a complete hull inspection. The prerequisite hull cleaning is the equivalent of spraying the airplane’s cabin with bug spray.

An easier option is to book a trip on one of the local vessels. Few are available for full charters and, generally speaking, standards don’t compare with private yachts offered for charter in the Caribbean and the Mediterranean. The main difference in the charter experience, however, has to do with the restrictions and regulations that Ecuador has enacted to protect this eco-biosphere. All boats (charter or private) must follow an itinerary tightly controlled by the park service and must have a park-appointed naturalist on board. The naturalists are there, in part, to ensure visitors don’t get overly enthusiastic and overstep their bounds: Penguin-hugging and sea lion-kissing are seriously frowned upon. But they are also there to educate and can

make the first approach to the islands’ history and nature so much more meaningful.

A recent addition to the Galápagos fleet is 124-foot yacht Stella Maris. Formerly known as Talon, the 1987 Picchiotti was purchased by a family from Ecuador who wanted to combine the wilderness experience of the Galápagos with the comfort and luxury of a charter yacht. The owners undertook a major refit in Guayaquil in 2014, outfitting the vessel with eco-friendly materials for 12 guests and 14 crewmembers. After the refit, the owners focused on the onboard experience. They hired two crewmembers trained to cater to luxury yacht guests to join Stella Maris’ professional Ecuadorian crew, led by experienced captain Daniel Mora, a Galápagos native. As first mate and chief stew, they added all the details that set a luxury yacht charter apart from a mere boat expedition: welcome drink, aromatic fresh towel upon returning from a snorkeling excursion, a new table setting for every meal and turn-down service, among them.

A short cruise on Stella Maris was what brought me to the Galápagos. It far exceeded any of my expectations. Luxury in the Galápagos has a whole new meaning. Picture yourself some 625 miles from the Latin American continent amid a landscape continuously reshaped by volcanoes, eating delicate food, sleeping in comfortable beds and, as every day dawns, coming closer to wildlife than in any zoo or aquarium.

The food is worth mentioning, as it is such a big part of the charter experience and fulfilling a sudden craving in the islands

T OP 5 E X PE R I E NCE SSWIMMING AMONG THE STARS We boarded Stella Maris’ tender after dark and for a few exhilarating minutes headed toward a horizon imagined rather than seen in the warm, salty air. When the lights on Stella Maris became a faint glow, we stopped. Stirring the water with our hands unleashed a chain reaction of green bioluminescence. We cautiously slid into the ocean and began swimming around the boat. The sea around us filled with exploding bursts of light matching the celestial vault riddled with stars. It was as if we were swimming in the Milky Way.

HANGING ON ENRIQUE’S WORDSOur tour guide, Enrique, a San Cristobal native, answered all the questions we threw his way. Latest volcanic eruption, history, Darwin, types of cacti, birth cycle of boobies, favorite flamingo food — you name it, he knew about it. He made our visits endlessly fascinating, while gently coaxing us not to intrude on wildlife. One fun fact we learned from Enrique: Sea turtles may not choose when they mate (the male is in charge), but they choose when they give birth — up to three years after their romantic encounter.

PLAYING WITH SEA LIONSSnorkeling in a warm and strong current, I was following a school of fish tacking left and right under the directions of an invisible conductor when a dark mass sheathed in tiny bubbles appeared in the corner of my mask and shot up like a cork out of a bottle. Startled, I went up for air and as soon as I surfaced, I heard screeches of delight from the other snorkelers. Young sea lions had decided to join our party. They darted and twirled around us completely at ease with swimmers much less gifted than them.

REVISITING THE BIRDS I’d venture to say that Alfred Hitchcock would have loathed this excursion, but I loved it. In dry season, the tortured trees and bushes of North Seymour Island are devoid of leaves. It makes it easier to see their occupants. On nearly every bush or tree is a nest of blue-footed boobies or frigatebirds. Frigates are not likeable birds (they are thieves after all), but to see them court their mates is a treat. Wings extended and red throats bellowing, the males’ mating dance looks like Kabuki theater.

STOPPING IN GUAYAQUILGetting to the Galápagos by air on scheduled flights requires an overnight stay on mainland Ecuador. While nearly everyone goes to Quito, I flew through Guayaquil. A local guide unlocked fascinating facts about the city, from a market called the Crystal Palace, designed by students of Gustave Eiffel, to the historic district of Las Peñas, where wooden buildings house artist galleries. In another neighborhood, papier-mâché figurines that would be burned on December 31 for the tradition of Año Viejo (the old year) lined the sidewalks. Burning the effigies, which represent past misfortunes, guarantees a fresh start. Monsters, political figures, actors — even cartoon characters (something for the kids) — awaited their fate.

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WHEN TO GO You can visit the Galápagos

year-round. High seasons are mid-June to early September

and mid-December to mid-January. December

through May, it rains more and the water is warmer.

T O SE RVE A ND PRO TEC T

Johannah Barry, founder and president of the Galápagos Conservancy, says

she often gets letters from visitors to the Galápagos saying that their stay

was the most extraordinary experience of their lives. “They say, ‘I want this place to be there for my children

and grandchildren.’ People feel an intergeneration responsibility, and they are the biggest allies that the

Galápagos have,” she says. An environmental NGO based in the

U.S., the Galápagos Conservancy works with public institutions in Ecuador to

support programs from education to scientific studies. A scientific advisor

to the organization is herpetologist Dr. Linda Cayot. Known for her work with Lonesome George, among other

projects, she collaborates with the park service and Charles Darwin Research

Station (CDRS) to protect tortoises throughout the islands.

The Galápagos Conservancy currently is also co-funding a CDRS program led

by Scottish and Ecuadorian marine scientist Inti Keith to minimize the impact of marine invasive species.

“I think it’s a huge issue,” says Barry. “About twenty percent of the marine species found in the Galápagos are

endemic, which is a big number.” Boat traffic and more frequent periods of

El Niño are contributing to an increase in undesirables that compete with the natives for resources, she adds. Even

very small invaders, such as algae, plant debris or seeds, which are easily transported, can be threats. To view

more programs, download a shark app or find ways to help, visit

www.galapagos.org.

ABOUT STELLA MARISManaged by Worth Avenue Yachts, Stella

Maris offers itineraries balancing water and land activity, from $150,000 per week. Refit in 2014, the yacht accommodates 12 guests in a master suite, two VIPs and four guest cabins and carries two Novurania tenders,

kayaks and snorkeling gear. www.worthavenueyachts.com

is not always possible. Some items are hard to find or limited by the national park service. Strawberries, for example, can only be imported unripe and with their greens chopped off, just one example in a long list of restricted fruit and vegetable imports. But the islands provide wonderful local ingredients, including freshly caught lobster and fish, locally grown beef and fragrant fruit (the Galápagos oranges are small and full of seeds but make delectable juice). The yacht’s chef surprised and delighted us with creative and delicious meals catering to a variety of diets.

Stella Maris, like any other yacht here, needs to follow the national park’s schedule. While we were never alone at anchor, the other boats and their guests were seldom intrusive. The tender took us to many coves where our small group was virtually solo.

One of many memorable moments during an intense three days was an afternoon cruise that landed us on a white-sand beach just before sunset. We had to step gingerly to avoid the sea lions lying on the shore. And then we realized what we had just happened to walk into. Colorful sally lightfoot crabs were clinging to a sort of ragged shiny pink sheet. Nearby was a big sea lion on her side and tiny pups nuzzling her stretched belly. This was a mother and her brand-new family and what the crabs were busily doing was disposing of the afterbirth.

I felt like an intruder once again, but something else — the sight of this nursery in the wild — stirred something deeper, a feeling that is difficult to describe. I looked for some of the comments visitors shared about their trip to the Galápagos; some said they felt like Adam and Eve in the proverbial garden. It is a cliché, but that may be the easiest way to put it. What it felt like was that I had witnessed the beginning of time.

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