savour issue 02 - 2014

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A celebration of north-east food and drinkISSUE 02, 2014

Yippee! The clocks are now on BritishSummer Time and anticipation of weeks ofsunshine similar to last year eradicates thewinter gloom. Get the garden furnitureuncovered and start looking out those fineweather recipes. It may be a bit of a leantime for the kitchen chef but there are stilllots of fresh local produce to be found infarmers’ markets throughout the area. Toemphasise the wealth of talent in the NorthEast, we announce the winners of the 2014Grampian Food Innovation Awards and lookforward in anticipation to this year’s Taste ofGrampian at Thainstone. Also in this issue,there are some suggestions for dad onFather’s Day and I dig up the dirt on mylatest exploits in the allotment. The new

Chester Hotel is uncovered, we celebrate thehumble herring – a feature of this year’sAberdeen Asset Management ScottishTraditional Boat Festival in Portsoy, and wetake a trip through the magnificent RoyalDeeside countryside with its equallyimpressive food. We are also delighted tohave tracked down two Michelin-star chefMichael Wignall, whose profile is growingfollowing his appearance on MasterChef: TheProfessionals as a judge.

However, it’s the abundance of great localproduce and talented chefs in the area weapplaud and this publication is a celebrationof their great achievements, so keep thishandy pocket-sized magazine with you asyou explore what they have to offer.

FROM THE EDITOR

Savour is produced by

Mackintosh Media Ltd.,

Regent House,

36 Regent Quay,

Aberdeen

AB11 5BE

CHIEF EXECUTIVE

Steve MacKintosh

T: +44 (0) 1224 288981

E: [email protected]

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Eric Farquharson

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@SavourMag

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A celebration of north-east food and drinkISSUE 02, 2014

CONTENT

ingredients

Paul and Nick p11Paul and Nick headline A Tasteof Grampian

Tempting winesto try

Michael Wignall p28/29Talking to the twoMichelin-star chef

Chester Hotel p32/33

WInes Uncorked p25

Take a look at the newChester Hotel

Meet Gavin Henry p44/45You’re Innfor a treat

Breakaway! p50/52Breakaway to spectacularRoyal Deeside

Competition! p53Dine at RaemoirHouse Hotel

38 42 47

23

28 44

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Early Summer RisottoDeliciously creamy risotto without being too rich

Method1: Simmer the stock for 10 minutes with the asparagus trimmings and pea pods; these will intensify the flavour. Strain into a jug.

2: While the stock is simmering, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wide, shallow pan. Tip in the onion and fry gently for 5- 6minutes, stirring, until it is soft but not coloured. Add the rice and continue to stir and cook for 1-2 minutes until the grains become see-through at the edges and begin to make ‘clicking’ noises.

3: Add the wine (it should bubble and evaporate), then 50ml of the stock. Stir well and simmer gently until all the liquid has been absorbed. Now pour in another 50ml of stock and stir again. Continue adding the stock and stirring. After about 7 minutes, when half the stock has been added, swirl in the asparagus and peas. Carry on adding stock in small amounts until it has been absorbed; this will take about 10 more minutes. Now the risotto should be a little wet and sloppy and the rice tender with a nutty bite.

4: Turn off the heat, then gently stir in the grated Parmesan, taste and season. You may need only a little black pepper, as the Parmesan and stock are both salty. Spoon the risotto on to a plate, top with the rocket, drizzle with the remaining olive oil and scatter with Parmesan shavings. Pour yourself a glass of wine and enjoy your meal.

Ingredients• 450ml vegetable stock, made with half a stock cube • 4 asparagus spears, trimmed (trimmings kept) and each spear

sliced into four • 200-250g peas in the pod, about 85g podded (pods kept) • 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 small onion, finely

chopped • 85ml risotto rice • 3 tbsp white wine (keep the rest of the bottle chilling) • small handful of freshly grated

Parmesan (or vegetarian alternative) • small handful of rocket and a few Parmesan (or vegetarian alternative) shavings, to

serve

Ever stop to think about what’s in a jar of honey? It’sreally quite simple. There are no added preservatives.No added flavourings. No added colouring.

Take a look at the additive-free journey that honeytakes from bee to jar and see for yourself. The jar ofhoney on your supermarket shelf is nothing morethan honest-to-goodness sweetness the way natureintended.

From BeeALL-NATURAL PRODUCTION

Honey gets its start as flower nectar, which iscollected by bees, naturally broken down into simplesugars and stored in honeycombs. The unique designof the honeycomb, coupled with constant fanning bythe bees’ wings, causes evaporation to take place,creating the thick, sweet liquid we know as honey.

The colour and flavour of honey varies from hive tohive based on the type of flower nectar collected bythe bees. For example, honey made from orangeblossom nectar might be light in colour, whereashoney from avocado or wildflowers might have a darkamber colour.

To HiveHARVESTING AND EXTRACTING

Beekeepers - large and small - harvest honey bycollecting the honeycomb frames and scraping off thewax cap that bees make to seal off honey in each cell.

Once the caps are removed, the frames are placed inan extractor — a centrifuge that spins the frames,forcing honey out of the comb. The honey is spun tothe sides of the extractor, where gravity pulls it to thebottom and it can be collected.

To JarSTRAINING AND BOTTLING

After the honey is extracted, it is strained to removeany remaining pieces of wax or other particles. Some

beekeepers and bottlers might heat the honey tomake it easier to strain, but this does nothing to alterthe liquid’s natural composition. It only makes thestraining process easier and more effective.

To Shop

John Anderson, who has been mastering the honeybusiness for thirty years, produces only the highestquality Scottish honey, and now has hives across thecountry estates and heather moors of the ScottishHighlands. Based in Turriff, he is ideally located toharvest the natural goodness that the rich fertile landproduces. As well as blossom, heather and cloverhoney, he also produces honey with GlenDronachsingle malt, and sells New Zealand comb honey,where the honey is sealed into the comb by the bees- the whole comb is edible.

Anderson also makes jams, marmalades, curds andjellies using the traditional ‘open pan’ method; thestrawberry, raspberry, blackcurrant, rhubarb andredcurrant products use exclusively Scottish fruit.

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NewsBites...Chester Hotel

Opens

Cock and Bull Shortlisted

Andy Murray has served a quick-fire

ace after the historic hotel acquired

and refurbished by his family was

named Scottish Hotel of the Year.

Cromlix, which re-opened at the start

of April near the Wimbledon and

Olympic tennis champion’s home at

Dunblane in Perthshire, took the top

prize at the 2014 Scottish Hotel

Awards in Edinburgh.

“This superbly balanced combination

of solid investment, vision and hugely

experienced management has made

Cromlix the unanimous choice of

judges this year,” said awards’

chairman, Gary McLean Quin.

“Hotels often have sizeable sums of

money spent on them but that’s only

half the battle,” he added. “What

impressed us – and specifically

enabled this award – was the

involvement of award-winning

management and individuals in every

department - people of excellence we

have known for a decade. The result is

no less than a national treasure. We

must also pay tribute to Andy’s

mother, Judy, who has undoubtedly

played a great part in this

transformation.”

Since being bought by the Murray

family last year, the 15-bedroom

Victorian mansion hotel with private

chapel, set in 34 acres, has been

entirely redesigned and in some areas

rebuilt. It is managed by Inverlochy

Castle Management International

(ICMI), which controls eight other

properties around Scotland and won

the Hotel Management Company

award for the fifth year in a row.

Cromlix’s restaurant bears the name of

ICMI industry expert, Albert Roux,

owner of La Gavroche in London, the

first UK restaurant to be awarded three

Michelin stars.

Aberdeen has a new jewel in its crown

with the recent opening of the eagerly

anticipated The Chester Hotel. Aimed at

the five-star hotel, dining and

entertaining market, The Chester Hotel

combines the original features of its

stunning 19th century listed building on

the city’s famous Queen’s Road with

luxurious contemporary design.

Following a complete refurbishment, the

newly extended premises boast an

exceptional restaurant, bar, private dining

room, 54 bedrooms - including two

suites, and a gym. A beauty room

available to residents and non-residents

opened in April and a function room for

weddings and dinners for up to 300

people, plus conferences for up to 500

delegates, has recently opened. (Read

more on pages 32 and 33).

The Cock and Bull at Balmedie has been

shortlisted in the category of The Pub

Excellence Award at the Catering in

Scotland (CIS) Excellence Awards 2014

along with Edinburgh’s The Scran &

Scallie Public House, owned by famous

duo Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack.

Andy Murray Serves UpAnother Title

NewsBites

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Dalkeith ChefCrownedScotland’s ‘CurryKing’Matin Khan, who runs Itihaas

restaurant in Dalkeith, has been

named Scotland’s ‘curry king’. He

beat off competition from restaurants

all over Scotland to be named Chef of

the Year at the Scottish Curry Awards

at a gala dinner attended by more

than 500 guests at the Thistle Hotel

in Glasgow.

“I am proud and honoured to have

received this recognition, especially

considering there are so many

marvellous curry chefs around

Scotland,” Matin commented. “At

Itihaas we use the finest meat,

vegetables and other ingredients,

working to authentic recipes.

However, work in the kitchen has to

be matched by top-notch service in

the restaurant and I’m fortunate to

have an excellent team front-of-

house as well as in the back.”

The trophy was received on his

behalf by his son, Habibur.

In April, PizzaExpress launched a new

lunch menu and the Aberdeen

restaurants were among the first in the

UK to roll it out. The biggest ever change

to the PizzaExpress offering presents a

real focus on healthy, light and

inexpensive dishes.

The new spring menu boasts classic

Italian flavours as well as a wider range of

its low-calorie Leggera dishes. New pizzas

include a vegan-friendly recipe and a

Leggera version of the Sloppy Giuseppe,

created to be under 500 calories. New

salads, sides and desserts have also been

added including a creamy white wine

and salmon risotto, a traditional

panzanella, a refreshing lemon sorbet,

summer pudding and panna cotta.

From tasty soups to perfectly

proportioned pizzas, the new menu has

been designed to give busy people an

excuse to escape for a quick and

inexpensive lunch. The range is bursting

with tasty new choices as well as

lunchtime-sized versions of the old

favourites. All items are available to eat in

or take away from Monday to Friday and

main dishes range from £3.45 to just

£5.95.

New to PizzaExpress is a selection of

piadinas, bread pockets that are made

using the restaurant’s famous dough,

baked with Gran Moravia and filled with

tasty, fresh ingredients. Two flavours of

soup are also being introduced and

served with warm bread, also made from

PizzaExpress’s dough.

Lunchtime-sized portions of

PizzaExpress’s most popular salads are

also joining the menu, including the

Leggera superfood salad, which is gluten-

free and contains just 256 calories. For

pizza-lovers looking for a lighter choice,

eight Romanita pizzas have been created

– smaller versions of PizzaExpress’s

Romana range of thin and crispy pizzas.

Also featured are mini side dishes,

including half portions of dough balls,

rosemary-infused polenta chips and a

crunchy, zesty coleslaw.

Don't Wait for Fridayto Escape for Lunch

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RhubarbandCustardCrunch

Method for mousse:

1: First make the honey crunch granola with almonds and apricots. You'll need half the granola for this recipe.

2: Heat the oven to 150ºC. Arrange the rhubarb in a roasting tin just big enough to hold it all in a single layer, scatter with

the sugar and cover with foil. Bake for 15-20 minutes until just tender, then cool in the tin.

3: Spoon a little rhubarb into the base of six glasses or pots, then top with a couple of tablespoons of custard. Sprinkle

over some granola, then repeat the layers to fill the glasses.

Ingredients• 450g rhubarb, trimmed and cut into chunks • 85g caster sugar • roughly a 500g/1lb 2oz tub or can of ready-made

custard • ½ quantity honey crunch granola

Everyone loves rhubarb, particularly at

the start of the year, when it's much

prized amongst gardeners and allotment

owners as the first of the season's fruits.

Although, strictly speaking, rhubarb is a

vegetable. You can enjoy rhubarb in

hearty steamed puddings, fruity

crumbles, moist cakes, delicious jams,

savoury chutneys, sharp-tasting pickles,

mouth-watering tarts and flans and, more

recently, as an accompaniment to pork or

duck; rhubarb's tart flavour cuts through

the richness of the meat.

The young pink stems have a refreshingly

sharp flavour. There's no need to peel

young rhubarb; just remove any stringy

bits. If you have a lot of rhubarb, you can

blanch the stems in boiling water for

about 45 seconds, drain well, cool, cut

into pieces and freeze for up to three

months. Limp rhubarb can be perked up

by standing the stems upright in chilled

water for about an hour.

Stick with Rhubarb

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Two celebrity chefs, who have justcompleted a culinary mission to find thevery best Celtic food and drink, areheading to the North East.

Northern Ireland’s Paul Rankin andScotland’s very own Nick Nairn wereconfirmed as the duo that will be starringat the 15th Taste of Grampian, being heldat Inverurie’s Thainstone Centre on June7.

The pair will each be displaying theirprowess in the kitchen individually andjointly. Their Big Food Trip, screened lastyear by STV, was extremely popular andsaw them travel by boat along theScottish and Northern Irish coasts. Theyturned a variety of different meats,seafood, vegetables and fruit into an arrayof tantalising dishes.

The annual showcase for the North East’srich and diverse food and drink larder ispromising various enhancements.

A seafood pavilion, which made its firstappearance at last year’s event, is beingmade bigger to fully accommodate theinterest in it.

And local chef Sandy Greig, one half ofthe popular ‘Two Fat Laddies’, will beteaming up with a variety of other chefsand cooks, including Lady Claire

Macdonald and Tesco’s Donna Knight,throughout the day to provide cookerydemonstrations outdoors.

Sandy will also be overseeing a newcontest for chefs, where they will bechallenged to make an omelette asquickly as possible.

Taste of Grampian chairman Brian Packrevealed the line-up as the event waslaunched to the trade at a GrampianFood Forum dining club at the AberdeenExhibition and Conference Centre.

He said: “We’ll be back in June oncemore, bigger and better than previousyears, while remaining true to our roots inmaking sure visitors can see, taste andbuy all the very best food and drinkproduced in this region.

“We’re also delighted to have a new titlesponsor in the shape of Town andCountry Apartments, an Inverurie-basedbusiness, and welcome them on board.”

The firm is among the North East’s largestproviders of serviced accommodationand, through a sister company, alsospecialises in leasing residential rentalproperty.

Business development manager RichardBooth said: “To be at the heart of thisyear’s event as the main sponsor is a

great fit for Town and Country. Just as weput quality and customer service at thecentre of our business, so too do theincredible producers and chefs who dosuch an excellent job of highlighting theproduce of the North East at Taste ofGrampian. It’s all too easy to take forgranted what we have on our doorstepand sometimes it takes an event like thisto focus the mind and underline thepotential of our region.”

Mr Pack said interest in Taste of Grampianwas already strong, with in excess of 30stands for the main food and drink showand 20 in the craft tent already booked.

Also sponsoring the event are Asda,Quality Meat Scotland, the FoodStandards Agency, the Crerar ThainstoneHouse Hotel, Young’s Seafood, Tesco, theMercure Ardoe House Hotel and Spa,Mackie’s of Scotland, Hamlyns ofScotland, the Royal Bank of Scotland,Thistle Hotels, Union Square, Imajica,More Than Kitchens, Service Point,Ledingham Chalmers, the Nick NairnCook School, the Marcliffe Hotel and Spa,and Banff and Buchan College.

The partners behind the Taste ofGrampian are the ANM Group,Aberdeenshire Council, Grampian FoodForum, the Press and Journal and ScottishEnterprise.

Paul and Nick Heading forTaste of Grampian

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May

It’s the time of year for delicious asparagus; lightly steaming or boiling

brings out the fragrant flavour, which can be enjoyed simply covered in

butter or dipped in hollandaise sauce.

• ASPARAGUS • CRAB • ELDERFLOWER • LAMB

• GOOSEBERRY • NECTARINE • NEW POTATOES • RADISH

• ROCKET • SARDINES • SPRING ONION • WATERCRESS

June

Welcome the spring season with tasty

alternatives to your usual greens

Variety not only keeps your diet fresh—it

can also help keep you healthy by giving

you a broader range of nutrients. And

the bounty of greens arriving at farmers'

markets at this time of year makes it a

great time to trade in your tried-and-true

healthy foods for something new. Added

bonus: ‘Just picked’ produce is loaded

with disease-fighting vitamins, minerals

and antioxidants, plus it usually costs

less and bursts with flavour.

So what’s in season and good for us at

this time of year?

in season

Broad beans are pretty hardy and adaptable as they grow in most soils

and climates. They’re a great source of protein and carbohydrates and are

at their peak from the end of June.

• BROAD BEANS • CRAB • FRENCH BEANS • LAMB

• MACKEREL • MANGETOUT • PEAS • RADISH • RASPBERRY

• SARDINES • STRAWBERRY • TOMATO

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The root of a member of the mustard

family, radishes have a peppery flavour

and a crisp, crunchy texture. Among the

most popular varieties are the small,

cherry-sized common variety, which has a

red skin and white flesh. (The French

Breakfast radish is a variation on this type,

and has an elongated shape with a deep

pink skin that fades to white at the roots).

You can also find black radishes, popular

in Eastern Europe, which are more

strongly flavoured, as well as large white

mooli or daikon radishes, which are

shaped like carrots. They are popular in

Asian cookery and have a very mild

flavour.

Radishes are rich in folic acid and

potassium and are a good source of

vitamin B6, magnesium, riboflavin, and

calcium.

Availability

All year round, though the British season

runs from May to mid-October. They're

extremely easy to grow from seed,

whether in an allotment or in a window

box.

Choose the best

Go for firm-skinned radishes with no

blemishes. If they feel soft, they are likely

to be spongy inside. Any greens still

attached should look fresh and perky. The

bigger the radish, the less crisp its texture,

so avoid larger examples.

Prepare it

To increase the crispness of radish, soak

them in iced water for a couple of hours.

Wash, then chop off the greens, if

present; then slice off the root. Leave

whole, slice or chop, as required. Always

prepare radishes just before using, as they

lose their potency when cut. Mooli or

daikon radishes can be sliced, diced or

grated.

Store it

In a perforated bag in the fridge for

around three to four days. Always trim the

leaves off before storing, as they'll draw

moisture from the radish itself. You can

keep the radish greens in the fridge,

wrapped in moist kitchen paper then

stowed in a perforated bag, for a couple

of days.

Cook it

Common red-skinned: raw in salads.

Mooli or daikon: raw or stir-fried (three

minutes). Add radish greens to salads.

The Rich Radish

Newpotatoes withradishes &cured ham

Method for mousse:

1: Bring the potatoes to the boil in a large pan with the bay leaf and plenty of salt. Simmer gently just until tender, about

10-15 minutes, then allow to cool a little in the cooking water.

2: Drain the potatoes, discarding the bay leaf, then dress in the olive oil and a splash of sherry vinegar to taste. Split the

radishes in half from head to toe, season with a little salt, toss with the warm new potatoes and carefully arrange on a

serving platter with the ham slices.

Ingredients• 600g baby new potatoes (look for Jersey Royals or Pembrokeshire) • 1 bay leaf • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

• 1-2 tsp sherry vinegar • 2 bunches breakfast radishes (or 150g bag radishes), trimmed

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Stonehaven MarketStonehaven Farmers' Market - one of the busiest and most successful in Aberdeenshire - was established by the StonehavenBusiness Association in 2005. The market takes place on the first Saturday of the month from 9.00 a.m. until 1.00 p.m. in the town’sMarket Square. A particularly strong array of producers can be found at Stonehaven market including Granite City Fish, The Store,Gluten Free Baking, Neil Gammie (Fernieflatt Farm), Poppys, Cocoa Ooze, Devenick Dairy, Ingram’s Homecure, Rob Powell(photographer), Pam's Tablet, From Scotland, Crannach Bakery, Cambus O'May Cheese, Ola Oils, Wow Dog Bakery and CastletonFarm (when their superb fruit is in season).

Featured Producer – The StoreBased at Foveran near Ellon, The Store is a farm-based family-run business with a strong commitment to providing local, natural,high quality produce. The farm raises Aberdeen Angus cattle and sheep (Suffolks and Texels) in small numbers in open fields, fedon natural pastures and home-grown fodder, seeing the product all the way through from pasture to customer and making bestuse of the natural environment. Meats are hung traditionally to ensure the highest quality. The Store supplies The Marcliffe atPitfodels, Aberdeen's only five-star hotel, as well as the outstanding Eat on the Green restaurant in Udny Green.

Run by the Booth family, The Store continues to be a strong supporter of local farmers’ markets and can be found at the regularmonthly markets at Stonehaven, Banchory, Balmedie, Aberdeen and Inverurie, as well as many other local food events includingTaste of Grampian.

The Store has its own butchery and offers an excellent range of meat products including superb steaks, sausages and pies.Experienced staff members are invariably on hand at farmers’ markets to offer cooking and serving suggestions. An online orderingfacility means that meat enthusiasts unable to attend local markets can still access their produce.

The Store’s farm shop at Foveran was extended in 2012 to incorporate a coffee shop and restaurant and is well worth a visit –especially on a Gourmet night!

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Farmers’ Markets can be found at:ABERDEEN - Last Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.

BALMEDIE - 2nd Saturday of the month 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

BANCHORY - 3rd Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

HUNTLY - 1st Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

INVERURIE - 2nd Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

MACDUFF - Last Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 12.30 p.m.

PETERHEAD - 1st Saturday of the month 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

STONEHAVEN - 1st Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

TORPHINS - Every Wednesday

TURRIFF - 3rd Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 12.30 p.m.

WESTHILL - 1st Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Cook theperfect steak

Method

1: Get your griddle pan smoking hot and season your steak. Add two tablespoons of vegetable oil to your griddle, followed

by the Aberdeen Angus fillet steak. Allow the meat to get a lovely dark crust before turning over. Remember more colour

gives more flavours!

2: To cook your fillet to the right temperature, you should ideally use a temperature probe: 40º for rare, 50º for

medium. We don’t do well done!

3: Remove the fillet from the pan and allow it to rest for about five minutes. This allows the muscle to relax and gives you

a far juicier eating experience.

On our farm in Aberdeenshire, we take pride in

our Aberdeen Angus beef cattle. We feed them

purely on a forage-based diet to enhance the

flavours of the succulent and tender meat. The

beef is matured on the bone for three to four

weeks at our on-site maturation chills at The

Store, and butchered by our team of master

butchers.

Q: Over the years I have publishedmany stories of achievementrelating to The Store, so what, inyour opinion, is the reason for theBooth family’s success?

A: At The Store, we are passionateabout encouraging our customers tomake use of Scotland’s natural larder,with a strong vision to provide goodquality local produce to the North East.I guess this has helped to make TheStore a success.

We strive to offer our customers onlythe best local produce, whilst alsoeducating and promoting agriculture.As we have our own farms and on-sitebutchery, we are able to follow a farm-to-fork approach, giving us fulltraceability and, importantly, completecontrol so customers can have trust

and confidence in our meat, which isvital these days.

However, we don’t just want to offer aplace to buy local meat; we also wantto enhance food tourism in Scotland,so we host various foodie events andopen farm days to showcase the farmand our products. We also get involvedwith various national initiatives such asNational Breakfast Week to provide ourcustomers with further understandingabout the importance of local food.

Since day one, our aim has beensimple – to promote high-quality,regional food with passion.

Q: Have you plans for any opendays, gourmet evenings or butcherymasterclasses this year?

A: We host various events and foodienights throughout the year as a way to

showcase our award-winning produce.We like to focus on different themesand foodie favourites each week, andso far we have hosted a variety ofthemed nights, including Best of BritishSummer, Flaming Butchers Grill night,a Game night, Indian and Taste of theNorth East. In the next few months, weare planning a gastro night and ourpopular grill night. Our butcherycourses are run regularly and offer anexperience to any meat-loving foodie,with hands-on butchery experienceand expert tips on carving the Sundayroast.

We also attend several farmers’ marketsthroughout the year and will beexhibiting at Taste of Grampian in June.Our annual open farm day will be heldin September to mark thehomecoming of harvest 2014.

The Booth family, owners of The Store in Foveran, have a reputation for producing the finest Aberdeen

Angus beef. On-site The Store has its own butchery, farm shop and deli, kitchen and coffee shop, and all

meat products sold at The Store are reared on the family’s farm. The focus at The Store is to bring

customers the best possible fresh, local produce. It is also a great place for a coffee stop, where you can

relax with a brew, a home-made cake or a delicious lunch. If you can’t make it to Foveran, you can shop

online or catch up with the team at farmers’ markets across the North East. Farmer Booth talks to

Savour’s editor about the family’s business success.

Q: As the weather improves and welook forward to another summer,what does The Store offer thebarbecue enthusiast?

A: We always like to host somesummer barbecues for our customersat The Store, but we can also providethe ultimate showstopper for their ownparties or events. Our hog roast can behired out either as do-it-yourself orfully catered with a choice of highquality meats available from The Store,with the extra condiments to cater for100 guests.

We can also provide barbecue hire forthose traditional beef lovers who preferthe classic burger in a bap, which isextremely popular for private birthdayparties and special celebrations in thesummer months and corporate eventsthroughout the year.

In our farm shop, we have a range ofproducts from local artisan producers,including home-grown vegetables,sauces, chutneys and cheeses to offerthe complete package for the barbecueseason.

Q: If I’m buying online, how can Iguarantee my food box arrives freshand to a suitable destination?

A: All meats products sold at The Storecome from produce reared on thefamily farms, offering 100% traceability

from farm to fork. We deliver locallyand throughout the UK mainland usinga next day delivery courier service.They are also delivered in a chilled coolbox and, if preferred, we can dispatchproducts frozen. This gives customerscomplete satisfaction, so they canenjoy the real taste of Scotland.

Q: What kind of fare can our readersexpect at the coffee shop?

A: Our coffee shop menu is changedseasonally, with hearty Scottish dishesand foodie favourites, includingmouth-watering handmade burgersand home-baked cakes to accompanyyour coffee. We like to feature a newspecial each day to give customers anew experience on each visit. Ofcourse, all the meat produce is fromthe farm, but we also source from localsuppliers to give the customers morevariety. We also transform our coffeeshop for our gourmet foodie evenings.

An added extra for the customer is thatthe products served in the coffee shopcan be purchased in the farm shop,with sauces, salad garnish and specialingredients all available to take home.

Q: You are clearly a farmers’ marketenthusiast. Why are they soimportant?

A: Farmers’ markets are great fun andhave proved to be a fantastic way to

get The Store’s name out there fromthe beginning.

We use these events to launch many ofour new products, and we get anhonest, quick response from ourcustomers about our produce, so wecan gauge if a product will be asuccess or not.

Q: You have resident chefs whowork outwith the coffee shop. Canyou tell me about their roles?

A: Our resident chefs, Kenny and Drew,create the seasonal menus and foodieFriday menus, along with me and mywife, Debbie.

They are tasked with using ingredientsfrom the farm and other local suppliersand food in season to create a menuthat will cater for and excite ourcustomers’ taste buds.

Q: What new products, events orsurprises can we expect from TheStore this year?

A: We are currently confirming all ofour foodie Friday evenings, but we willbe at Taste of Grampian this year andplan to hold our open farm day inSeptember.

2014 and 2015 are going to be veryexciting times for The Store, so beprepared to see a number of changes.

MARCH

Halleluiah! I always feel when you get to the end of

February you really notice the days stretching so it’s

countdown time to getting those dormant seeds

planted. The damp soil, however, refuses to part

from the dandelion and dock roots, making the

remaining clearing of our plot impossible. Mud

clings to my wellies more than Ann Widdecombe to

Anton on Strictly. Although we’ve been spared the

floods of southern Britain, water still lies in many

allotments and indeed a neighbour may perhaps

consider rice planting rather than more

conventional vegetation.

We have instead concentrated on construction work

and, with the help of the B&Q sale, managed to

purchase and build a summerhouse, a venture in

which we succeeded with surprisingly limited

profanities. Our idea is to use this little haven to

bring on our seedlings in the springtime while in

the summer months offer consolation to our hard

graft with a seat and a cheeky little Sauvignon. So

be warned, neighbouring horticultural friends, at

day’s end you may think Michael Bublé has taken

up gardening but it’s actually me relaxing just a

little too much!

For weeks now every shaft of sunlight has had my

wife reach excitedly for packets of seeds and we

now have every window ledge groaning with little

green trays with Perspex lids. Little did Yeo Valley

know that, on emptying the creamy contents of

their ‘Greek Style’ pot, a home was created for a

fledgling spinach plant! Trays are turned daily with military

precision as the young plants bend to the window in an endeavour

to capture the limited rays of sunshine. Like a sister on a maternity

ward, my wife constantly checks her incubating ‘babies’ and no

visitor is spared her proud ‘rounds’ from window to window.

Back on the allotment, our rhubarb (hence the rant!), which has

been cosseted with straw over the winter and shielded by pots, has

sprung into life. Now showing its red stems and umbrella-like

leaves, it is our first success but I fear it is about to crumble!!

Despite the rainfall I’ve also been able to construct two more raised

beds – one for herbs and one for salad leaves. The larger beds

remain black tarpaulin-covered, in grave-like solitude, awaiting the

early summer sunshine and a chance to burst into life.

APRIL

To plant or not to plant? That is the question! The weather

changes more times than a brood of girls on a hen weekend.

However, activity on neighbouring allotments has increased and

gardeners now scurry around like busy ants getting their beds in

order, while garden centres do battle to convince you their aisles

of greens are better than elsewhere.

It may still be a bit cold outside but my wife’s credit card is red hot.

As I continue to do battle with the soil, her struggle is with the

copious amounts of trays she can fit into her trolley. With no heed

to the ‘Beware of Frost’ warning, every conceivable edible plant

with the slightest sign of life is chosen and wheeled to the check-

out. Bearing in mind the amount of seeds sown and maturing

nicely at home, I feel the allotment may be a mistake and a farm

a more appropriate option!

The brassicas - that’s cabbages, cauliflowers, broccoli and Brussels

sprouts for the uninitiated - are carefully dibbered into the awaiting

beds and snugly covered with horticultural fleece to protect them

from frost. The lettuce and salad leaves are planted and I’ve erected

a wigwam for impending broad beans that would make the

indigenous people of Native America proud. The constant rain has

my wife announcing I should grab a big butt. I can’t tell you my

response but my ear is still aching!

As the final remaining sods are turned and I risk a nose bleed as I

finally straighten up after weeks of being doubled in two, my

younger son, who has been known to pick up a spade on

occasions, appears. This was not the time to tell me he had just

been notified of his success in claiming an allotment for himself …

just across from ours! Every dad will tell you how proud he is when

his kids follow in his footsteps, but why did he have to pick

gardening??

20

savourIssue 02 2014

Over 180 guests from the food and drink industry attended the

Grampian Food Forum Innovation Awards last month.

Highlighting the richness and diversity of the north-east larder,

the awards, held in the Marcliffe Hotel and Spa, Aberdeen,

rewarded the skill and ingenuity of thriving food and drink

businesses across the region. During the day, over 33 entries

from 17 food and drink companies were sampled and assessed

by the judging panel. The evening culminated in trophies being

handed to the category winners from the impressive array of

original entries.

The judging panel was headed by Andrew Kenny, who has

worked in food retail all of his working life and has been with

Asda Stores Ltd for 10 years, holding a number of positions on

the trading floor. Andrew is now category director responsible

for all aspects relating to the customer within Meal Solutions,

Cafés and Asda local sourcing ranges in Scotland and Northern

Ireland.

Mr Kenny said he had his eye on several products that he would

like to see on Asda’s shelves, adding: “There are certainly some

I want my buying team to pick up and take forward. It has been

fantastic to see the drive, passion and energy behind some great

products in the local area. There’s definite potential to support

local producers in the future and list the unique and innovative

products in Asda stores for our customers to enjoy.”

Joining Mr Kenny on the judging panel was Jeremy Dixon,

marketing and sales director at Ochil Foods, and food and drink

editor of The List, Donald Reid. Ochil Foods are a third

generation, family-run food business supplying Scottish produce

and internationally sourced speciality foods to hotels and

caterers throughout Scotland. Donald Reid has been food and

drink editor at The List since 1999, and is the founder and

editorial director of the Larder series of publications, which

covers the food and drink scene in Scotland.

Associated Seafoods Ltd (ASL) won the Best New Retail Product

category for businesses with more than 25 employees for their

high quality crab products (White Crab Meat Pot, White and

Brown Crab Meat Pot and Dressed Crab).

Henry Angus of ASL, said: “We are thrilled to have won this

award, which recognises the huge efforts put in by all our staff

in ensuring that we produce premium products with strong

consumer appeal.”

ASL recently successfully completed a major investment

programme at its facility in Buckie, Scotland, creating an ultra-

modern processing plant for Scottish shellfish and Scottish

smoked salmon. A significant element of the new development

plans for the business includes the diversification into high-end

The Taste ofSuccess

21

retail products such as those that have been successful at the

awards.

Husband-and-wife team Claire and Ross Rennie, who started in

business making fresh chocolate-covered strawberries at their

family farm near Rosehearty under the Berry Scrumptious label,

had cause for a double celebration. They were awarded the Best

New Retail Product for businesses with less than 25 employees

for their Summerhouse Drinks, and Most Successful Product

from the 2013 awards for their Gourmet Berry Fudge. Claire

commented: “We are absolutely thrilled to have won two

awards this year, especially for our Summerhouse Drinks, a new

range for us, which we are very excited about.”

However, the night belonged to the team from J G Ross (Bakers)

Ltd from Inverurie, who went home clutching three of the

coveted awards. A jubilant Graeme Ross said: “We are absolutely

delighted to win so many awards across several categories. In

2013 we made a significant investment in our Portsoy bakery to

develop it into a gluten-free site and, after less than 12 months,

for two products made there (Angelic Gluten Free Cookies and

Pulsetta Breadcrumbs) to win awards is fantastic.

“To win an award for investing in skills development is

testimony to our staff and their appetite for learning (as well as

for great butteries!), and the support we receive from the

Scottish Association of Master Bakers. The Entrepreneur of the

Year award was the icing on the cake.

“Whilst we may be at the helm, the success of our business is

thanks to all our staff passionately working hard to consistently

deliver great products and service. Also to our loyal supplier

base and our customers who truly embrace local quality

products and are a pleasure to work with and supply. If you

want to know where the real engine rooms of the economy are

and what will generate economic growth, look up your local

family business. We are here, we employ, we invest!”

Since the Innovation Awards J G Ross (Bakers) Ltd have been

shortlisted for Scottish Baker of the Year.

The Grampian Food Forum, a partnership between

representatives of the food and drink industry and public sector

organisations in Aberdeenshire, Aberdeen and Moray, has

supported this sector for more than 20 years. Although

Aberdeenshire accounts for less than 9% of Scotland’s land area,

savourIssue 02 2014

22

savourIssue 02 2014

Best New Retail Product Award forbusinesses with more than 25 employees

First - Associated Seafoods Ltd - Crab RangeRunner Up - John Ross Jr (Aberdeen) Ltd - Original Classic

Smoked Salmon (Limited Edition)

Best New Retail Product Award forbusinesses with up to 25 employees

First - Berry Scrumptious - Summerhouse DrinksRunner Up - Deeside Brewery Ltd - Deeside Craft Lager

Best New Foodservice Product Award forbusinesses with more than 25 employees

Winner - J G Ross (Bakers) Ltd for the AngelicGluten Free Range

Best New Foodservice Product Award forbusinesses with up to 25 employees

Winner - Pulsetta Foods Limited - Pulsetta Breadcrumbs

Local Independent Retailer of the Year Awardsponsored by SRUC and Taste of Grampian

Winner - Allarburn Farm Shop

Commitment to Healthy Eating Award, sponsored by TheRowett Institute of Nutrition and Health

Winner - Chalmers Bakery Ltd - Mediterranean Pie

Grampian Food & Drink Entrepreneur 2014 Award,

sponsored by Johnston Carmichael

Winner - Graeme Ross - J G Ross (Bakers) Ltd

Investing in Skills Development Award,

sponsored by Skills Development Scotland

Winner - J G Ross (Bakers) Ltd

Denis Emslie Above and Beyond Award,

sponsored by Mackie's of Scotland

Winner - Calum Richardson - The Bay Fish and Chips

The Most Successful Product from the 2013 Awards,

sponsored by SRUC and Aberdeenshire Council

Winner - Berry Scrumptious - Gourmet Berry Fudge

Best Young Business Award,

sponsored by Young's Seafood Ltd

Winner - Pulsetta Foods Limited

Judges' Choice Award,

sponsored by the Marcliffe Hotel and Spa

Winner - Seb Jones, Speyside Craft Brewery

Winners of the Grampian Food Forum Innovation Awards 2014

it produces more than 20% of its agricultural output, primarily

premium red meat, cereals, berries and vegetables. Moray is

home to the country’s largest cluster of distilleries and, as well

as being a significant food producing region, has a coastline

that is home to the majority of the Scottish fishing fleet.

The Grampian Food Forum is part of the wider Scotland Food

& Drink Network and advises on the needs of the industry so

that specific projects can be put in place. The network was

established in 2011 to help Scotland’s food and drink

businesses grow and connect, potentially identifying new

business opportunities. Its aim is to promote the expansion of

this sector, in turn helping to maintain Scotland’s reputation for

excellence within the industry.

Next year is Scotland’s Year of Food and Drink and the perfect

time to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Innovation

Awards. The Forum offers a range of activities throughout the

year, and anyone in the food and drink industry locally wishing

to participate should contact Elizabeth Mathie at

[email protected]

savourIssue 02 2014

23

We Scots love our meat and we are lucky

to have some of the best and most

respected suppliers’ right here on our

doorstep. One of the most highly

regarded purveyors of meat in the North

East is Andrew Gordon, who has

introduced his Fresh Food Guru healthy

eating range through his website. Already

recognised for his amazing butchery and

fine foods store in Chattan Place, Andrew

is exploring the healthy eating side of the

business, offering low-calorie, low-fat

options. As an established butcher he has

great buying power and can therefore

pass this on to his customers, allowing

them to afford eating healthily and

getting better value for money.

For example, Andrew has obtained local

exclusive rights for Piedmontese meat,

which has a subtle richness, aromatic and

herbaceous flavour, and an earthy finish.

Its genetics and diet result in a meat that

is low in both saturated fat and

cholesterol. Nutritionally Piedmontese

compares favourably to what have

historically been considered ultra-healthy

sources of protein. For example, it

actually has fewer calories than roasted

chicken. This exceptional range includes

sirloin, fillet and rib-eye steaks, steak

mince, steak burgers and, for the

bodybuilding enthusiast, a Piedmontese

pack.

But it’s not just about the one brand. The

Fresh Food Guru offers Aberdeen Angus

steaks, extra lean minced topside, centre

cut fillet steaks, chicken olives, British

chicken breast fillet and a selection of

lean burgers and sausages. For even

better value, you also purchase bulk buy

meat packs, including gluten-free bulk

buy deals.

If you look after your body, whether

you’re a gym enthusiast or simply

because you care about nutrition, click on

to the website www.freshfoodguru.co.uk

They have superb produce, unbeatable

value, offer free advice for cooking and

deliver throughout the UK.

If you’re celebrating a birthday,

anniversary, a wedding, a corporate day

out with your clients or simply having a

party, there is no better way to impress

your guests than a delicious hog roast

from Fresh Food Guru Hog Roasts.

Delicious Aberdeenshire-bred pork served

in a brioche bun, with sage and onion

stuffing, Bramley apple sauce and a

home-made pork and wine gravy. Add to

the experience with a selection of

canapés, salads, baked potatoes with

fillings and desserts. Professional and

friendly staff will work with you and

ensure your guests have a memorable

time. It’s a spectacular day you’ll be

talking about for some time.

Steak out this HealthyEating Website

The white grapes of the Rhône Valley in France make mesmile; they have presence whether solo or in a blend. Itwas a study trip to the southern Rhône areas of Luberon,Ventoux and Costières de Nîmes that really shone a lighton the character of the white wines of the Rhône.

What’s not to love about the pear and herb fragrance ofRoussanne or the white flower, mineral and apricot notesof Viognier? And then there’s the honeysuckle, jasmineand honey of a maturing Marsanne.

On its own in the northern Rhône, Viognier is the grapeof the enticing Condrieu appellation. A small percentageis also sometimes co-fermented with Syrah (the onlypermitted red grape in the northern Rhône) in the winesof Côte-Rôtie to give an extra dimension to powerfulwines. It’s a practice that has transferred to Australia andother New World countries.

That dynamic trio of grapes is often found in the mixunder the Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc appellation, sometimesalongside Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc.The results can be vibrant and deserve more attentionthan they get.

Rosé Rhône is well worth exploring. The appellation ofTavel in the southern Rhône is only for rosé, the dryflavourful wines based on Grenache, which gives redberry characters, and Cinsault with its dark juicy fruit.

Red wines dominate both the northern and southernRhône Valley, each appellation having its style - from the

concentrated long-lived wines of Cornas and the steep

hillside of Hermitage to the softer, earlier drinking wines

from the slopes, Crozes-Hermitage.

In the southern Rhône, the most well-known area is

probably that of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Up to 13

different grape varieties are permitted but many are

Grenache-dominated and, if you are already a fan, then

the nearby appellations of Gigondas and Vacqueyras are

a must.

Wines to try*:

Les Dauphins Côtes-du-Rhône Reserve Blanc 2012

(Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Viognier)

Tesco £6.79

Domaine Maby 2012, Tavel Cuvée Prima Donna

(Cinsault, Grenache)

www.thewinesociety.com - £9.95

Guigal Gigondas Red 2010

Wine Importers (01506) 468900

Crozes-Hermitage Cave de Tain White 2011

M&S £12.99

Léon Perdigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Des

Argentiers 2010

Fountainhall Wines, Aberdeen £17.99

26

savourIssue 02 2014

DrinkNews Bites...

The Most UnusualBeer Names Unravel

the Taste of France

The wines of France can be a mystery

to some. Many are named after the

place they come from, the winemaker

who made them or the company who

produced them rather than saying

what the grapes in the bottle are. Also,

the predominant way is to blend

different grapes together: ‘The sum is

greater than the individual parts’.

Be confused no more as Anne Roque

from AdVini in the south of France is

coming to Montmartre on 14th May.

Montmartre Restaurant has selected an

exciting menu to bring out the best in

her wines, which include a Malbec

from Cahors, a rosé from Provence and

a rare white blend from the

Languedoc.

Anne will explain the general wines of

the area, discuss what is in her wines

and why they have been paired with

the dishes prepared by our chefs for

this occasion.

The evening will not be a lecture, so

leave your textbooks at home! It is

intended rather to be a fun, informal

affair where the food and wine will be

the centrepiece of this celebration of

all things culinary.

There’s been a great and rather amusing

response to a previous issue of Savour and

our request to send in names of beers

with unusual names. (It does make me

worry a little about our readers!!)

From the Oban Bay Brewery, we were

informed about the Kilt Lifter IPA; from

Tayside, MòR Tea Vicar? produced by MòR

Brewing; and, nearer to home, Tactical

Nuclear Penguin from our friends at

BrewDog.

There were a couple of seasonal entries

with the Inveralmond Brewery in Perth

producing Santa’s Swallie and, with the

same theme, we were told of Ridgeway

Brewing in England who offer us Santa’s

Butt.

Clearly it’s a topic of great amusement,

which instigated immediate research

resulting in the following, for which I can

only apologise:

Old Leghumper

Arrogant Bastard Ale

The Dog’s Bollocks

Pig’s Ass Porter

Spicy Fish Wife

Men’s Room Original

Can you beat any of these?? If so, drop us

a line at [email protected]

savourIssue 02 2014

27

A Scottish brewery has recently expanded

into new premises, triple the size of its

previous facility, to meet demand as it

continues to brew up further growth.

Brewmeister, a craft beer specialist, which

was launched in 2012, has recently

opened a new brewery facility in Keith, in

Moray, following significant investment

and the continued success of the

business.

The 5000 sq ft facility, located at the Isla

Bank Mills in the heart of the town, will

allow Brewmeister to increase its brewing

capacity by over four times, and meet

growing demand from customers in the

North East and across the world. The

brewery also has future plans to build a

retail unit for selling its specialised beers,

as well as opening the facility to host

behind-the-scenes tours.

Brewmeister, which was launched by

then student, Lewis Shand, now has 13

members of staff and expects to develop

a number of employment opportunities

for the surrounding areas and the North

East. The brewery has also recently

undergone a rebrand to coincide with

the expansion, and its new labels are

already up for a Scottish design award.

Managing director of Brewmeister, Lewis

Shand said: “We first launched

Brewmeister in a small farm steading in

2012, and in the past two years we have

seen a huge increase in demand for our

beers, and we quickly outgrew the

facilities. Expanding to larger premises

allows us to significantly increase our

production and will enable us to grow as

a business through increased ability to

export further and also employ more

staff. The new brewery is also key to our

future plans of creating a retail outlet to

sell our beers direct to the customers,

and also educate them through tours at

the site.”

The firm, which was first launched on a

£5000 student loan, currently has six

types of craft beers, including the world’s

strongest beer, Snake Venom (67.5%),

with several new recipes in the research

stages.

Brewmeister is currently available in

several Aberdeen bars, hotels and

restaurants, including the Carmelite

Hotel, The Gas Lamp and the Queen Vic.

The firm is already exporting to Europe

and Asia, and is in talks with US

distributors.

Training at the world’s oldest hotel

school is on the menu for Gail

Schofield after winning a coveted

industry scholarship.

She is one of three managers and

staff at Ballathie House Hotel near

Perth to receive the awards from the

Hospitality Industry Trust (HIT)

Scotland.

Gail, deputy manager at the four-star

53-bedroom mansion on the banks

of the River Tay at Kinclaven, has

won a scholarship for a four-day

course at the Lausanne Hotel School

in Switzerland.

General manager Jody Marshall will

take part in a bespoke course run by

Switzerland’s Glion Institute of

Higher Education, and sous-chef

John Peter (JP) Ferguson will attend

a four-day residential Outward

Bound Leadership programme.

The trio received their certificates

from top chef Raymond Blanc at

HIT’s Emerging Talent Conference at

the Grand Central Hotel in Glasgow.

“The scholarship will give me a

unique experience and once-in-a-

lifetime opportunity to develop

myself further by training with the

best trainers in their field,” said Gail,

who started work at Ballathie as a

receptionist 15 years ago.

The Hospitality Industry Trust

Scotland is a charity, which helps

people achieve their potential within

the Scottish hospitality industry.

Expansion for Scottish Brewery

BallathieTrio HIT the

Heights

28

savourIssue 02 2014

Our cover story in this issue is an

interview with the newly awarded two

Michelin-star chef, Michael Wignall at

The Latymer. Recently given the

accolade of ‘Best Chef you have never

heard of’ by Olive magazine, Michael’s

profile is growing with a guest spot on

the BBC’s MasterChef: The

Professionals as a judge. He was

recently seen competing on ITV in

Britain’s Best Dish: The Chefs,

describing his cooking as 'complex,

carefully crafted and very technical,

but not intimidating'.

Q: In most cases when chatting with a

chef they have quoted their mums as

being a huge influence and

inspiration in their careers. Does this

also apply to you?

A: My mum always used to cook

wholesome meals, baked every day, no

frozen or fast foods, something which did

set me in very good stead for my

subsequent career. Like a lot of successful

chefs, catering wasn’t my first option and

I almost fell into the trade.

Q: It seems everyone wants a piece of

Michael Wignall at the moment. With

pop-up cafés, T.V. appearances and

new projects, how do you maintain

your high standards at The Latymer?

A: You’re only as good at the team

behind you in the kitchen and front of

house. We all work equally as one team,

with no egos, and my priority is always

the restaurant and the staff, something I

believe is shown in the quality of our

output. I seldom take time out during

opening hours and always choose

projects carefully - ones that enhance

what we do, not dilute.

Q: You have a ‘Chef’s Table’ in the

heart of the kitchen. What experiences

can guests at this table expect?

A: The ‘Chef’s Table’ gives the customer

the opportunity to see first-hand how we

work in the kitchen. It’s also an amazing

Twinkle, TwinkleMichelin Star

savourIssue 02 2014

29opportunity to meet the chef who has

created each dish personally, as they

introduce the dish and the techniques

that have gone into each course. It’s a

more relaxed style of service, which we

have also adapted in the restaurant. The

days of stuffy service are long gone.

Q: With two Michelin stars and

regarded as one of the country’s

leading chefs expectations are high.

Do you still find your kitchen a

pleasurable experience or do you feel

under pressure?

A: Without a certain amount of pressure,

one could get complacent – I find myself

more creative when under pressure. We

all need a goal to work towards and once

this has been achieved a new one will be

set; we do not rest on our laurels.

Q: Clearly you must have a brilliant

kitchen brigade working with you.

Can you tell us a little about them?

A: Most of my team have been with me

now for two to three years and some well

over six, so we’ve all developed together.

You spend more time with your

colleagues in the kitchen than you do

your family, so it’s vital you all get on and

work well together. My team are

extremely motivated and dedicated,

continually developing diverse ideas. I’m

a great believer in developing my staff on

a daily basis by setting them challenges

for dishes, ideas, combinations – keeping

your staff creative can only be a good

thing for the restaurant.

Q: You describe your dishes as

‘complex and carefully crafted’, but

what exactly does that mean?

A: My food is certainly not simplistic but

every element on the plate is there for a

reason – to complement or enhance each

of the other ingredients in the dish but

never overshadowing one another.

Q: There is hardly a week goes by

when a ‘celebrity’ chef is not at the

top of the book charts. Have you ever

been tempted to put pen to paper?

A: Of course. I have a back catalogue of

thousands of recipes, which are ever

evolving, and it’s definitely something I

have in the pipeline.

Q: When can we next expect to see

you on our T.V. screens?

A: There are a couple of things planned

for 2014, but my priorities lie with

evolving the restaurant and other

projects even more.

31

savourIssue 02 2014

Diageo has signed football icon David Beckham and hismanager Simon Fuller to front the global launch of its HaigClub single grain Scotch whisky brand.

Diageo has joined forces with David Beckham to launch a newScotch whisky brand worldwide.

The variant has been created in partnership with the duo, whowill also play what Diageo says is a ‘fundamental’ role indeveloping the brand’s marketing strategy and positioning. Itwill be promoted as a ‘hugely versatile spirit’ when it launcheslater this year.

The marketing strategy will involve touting the drink’sheritage as Diageo joins the list of alcohol makers emphasisingthe history behind their brands to appeal to younger drinkers.The spirit’s name is derived from its origin, the ‘House of Haig’,a 400-year-old dynasty of whisky distillers.

Beckham, who has never backed a spirits brand, will also leadthe Scotch whisky’s responsible drinking programme. Diageois hoping Beckham’s star power can help boost whisky salesas it looks to create new revenue streams from the category.

The Spirit ofBeckham

The anticipation is over for Aberdeen food lovers withthe opening of The Chester Hotel.

IX Restaurant and IX Bar are part of Aberdeen’snewest high-end establishment, The Chester Hotel,which has undergone a stunning and ambitiousrefurbishment and extension.

IX Restaurant, under the attentive eye of Savoy-trained executive chef, Kevin Dalgleish, seats 90diners, serving the finest food Scotland offers. Theless formal but equally chic IX Bar, with its classic andinventive cocktail list, enviable whisky collection andexclusive Chester Brew, seats 60 guests, dishing upclassic yet contemporary bar food prepared with thesame skill and of the same high quality as therestaurant.

IX and The Chester Hotel are working directly withprime suppliers such as Simon Howie Butchers; JohnRoss Jr (Aberdeen), which has created a specialChester smoked salmon; Valrhona Chocolate, withwhom IX has a unique deal; and HarviestounBrewery, from whom IX have commissionedScotland’s newest beer, The Chester Brew.

The restaurant has two secluded and atmosphericprivate dining areas, individually seating up to eightpeople, and a larger private area for up to 30 dinersleading on to the Granite Balcony, which has asuperb view of Aberdeen’s southern skyline.

The exquisite, modern venue has been designed byworld-famous Graven Images, which has ingeniouslyreworked the large, 19th century interior of the hotelinto a stylish and convivial space.

IX Restaurant executive chef, Kevin Dalgleish says:“Leading such a prestigious venue as the IXRestaurant and Bar is a great privilege for a chef, andmy team and I are relishing serving our menu toguests and diners. I have spent the past yearengaging Scotland’s top food and drink suppliers andperfecting new techniques and dishes to ensure thatour customers are bowled over.

“Our menu weaves together the highest qualityproduce from Scotland’s rich larder with classic andEuropean influences, as well as inspiration drawnfrom my own team of talented chefs. Our restaurantand bar ingredients include prime Aberdeenshire

The Wait is over...

New Hotel Opens

beef, the freshest Orkney shellfish, creamy Highlandcheeses and indulgent Valrhona chocolate.

“Restaurant diners can pick their own red meat, fish andseafood and watch it being cooked on the Josper grill;the open ‘theatre’ style of the kitchen sets our guests’mouths watering as they observe their meals beingmeticulously prepared.

“Afternoon tea guests can enjoy the most delicateconfections created by the hotel’s specialist pastry chefs,and we have designed a menu for junior gourmets withyummy dishes such as ‘build your own pizza’ and ‘myfirst steak’.”

IX sommelier Alex Gerrard said: “Our highly diverse winelist suits new and seasoned palates, with a list of over120 wines, some of which are well known and otherswhich come from smaller scale and rarefied vineyards.

“We have painstakingly selected bottles which match ourevolving, seasonal restaurant and bar menus, but are alsovery drinkable in their own right. I’m really enjoyingpouring customers our delicious white, The CrusherViognier with its notes of tropical fruit; the red Gevrey-Chambertin, which is bold, dry, rustic and earthy; and theblushing Château Riotor Côtes de Provence Rosé, whichis pale and red-fruit dominated.

“Fans of Californian wine will be delighted to see OpusOne on the list. This premium Napa Valley wineryproduces limited stocks only and it is exciting to see itserved in a Scottish fine restaurant paired with Scottishcuisine.”

IX bar manager, Gary Middleton said: “IX Bar hasassembled a whisky, spirit and cocktail menu to suit allguests, whether they prefer a classic cocktail, a familiarcomforting dram or a rarer bottle. We have a fullcomplement of Scottish blends and high-end singlemalts, and are particularly proud to offer customers therare Dalmore Constellation 1980 and 1991. Anyone luckyenough to have sampled a measure of this superlativewhisky will know its breathtaking quality and chocolatenotes.

“We have also, daringly, brought in some exceptionalwhiskies from Japan and America, which will grace ourgrowing collection of over 130 malts and blends.

“Our cocktails have a highly contemporary gin focus,making the most of Scotland’s growing reputation as apremium gin producer. We stock 16 different gins,predominantly from Scotland, and have been inventingnew exciting ways of mixing them.

“Guests are enjoying our very own creation, the ‘ChesterJester’, a raspberry-based cocktail. Beer drinkers are alsovery favourably catered for with a brand new pale ale,The Chester Brew, which is being brewed especially forIX Bar and Restaurant by the Harviestoun Brewery.”

The Chester Hotel is the latest venture of hoteliersGraham and Gillian Wood, and builds on their notablesuccess, The Chester Residence in Edinburgh, which wasrecently named TripAdvisor’s top UK and EuropeanLuxury Hotel and its top UK Small Hotel for the secondyear running.

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savourIssue 02 2014

Dad’s Special SupperA meaty and satisfying meal, perfect for Father's Day

Method1: Preheat your oven to 200ºC. Cut the potatoes into halves or quarters, depending on their size, and put them into a large roasting tin. Drizzle with the olive oil and roast for 10 minutes.

2: Take the tin out of the oven and snuggle the sausages between the potatoes so they sit on the bottom of the tin. Now roast for another 15 minutes, turning the sausages over at half-time so they brown all over.

3: While you’re waiting for the sausages to cook, gently heat the marmalade, mustard and cider in a small pan, stirring all the time until the marmalade has melted. Increase the heat and boil for a few minutes until reduced by about half.

4: Pour the sauce over the sausages and potatoes and toss gently together. Scatter the rosemary sprigs on top, return to the oven and cook for a further 10 minutes until golden brown and sticky with the glaze. Sprinkle with salt and coarsely ground black pepper before serving.

Ingredients• 750g baby new potatoes • 2 tbsp olive oil • 8 plump sausages (choose Dad's favourite) • 3 rounded tbsp medium-cut

Seville orange marmalade (or whatever type you have) • 2 tbsp wholegrain mustard • 150ml sweet cider • a few rosemary

sprigs

1: 2-in-1 BBQ Tool: Even the most talented chef has

been known to flub a flip of a fish fillet or two. Help

keep steaks juicy, fish intact and kebabs stacked with

this double-sided spatula.

2: Talking Meat Thermometer: Grilling geeks will

appreciate the accuracy of Oregon Scientific's Talking

Meat Thermometer. If for some reason his grill gets a

little too smoky, this audible gadget will come in

handy.

3: Sanyo Indoor Electric Grill: Does your dad dip into a

depression when barbecue season ends? Perk him up

with this easy-to-clean indoor grill.

4: Cheers Dad!: A hand-picked case of 12 award-

winning British beers and real ales is bound to go

down well. All the beer comes from small producers

and is not usually available from supermarkets. Your

Dad will also find branded beer mats and a pub quiz

in the case. Great fun!

5: Chill Daddy Hamper: A brilliant gift with a hint of

spice, perfect for the man or men in your life

6: Personalised Gift Card: Fantastic Father's Day gift or

for his birthday...or if you have your eye on a lovely

new outfit!

Is Dad a foodie at heart? Then we've got the perfect man-size Father's Day gifts for him:

Hugging the Ellon road at Balmedie, just afew miles north of Aberdeen, a familiar blackand red sign depicting a cock and bull acts asa welcome beacon to hungry diners. Thisannounces your arrival at a traditionalcountry inn that oozes authentic characterand serves honest, locally sourced food,created by an award-winning kitchen team.

Victoria Campbell and Ryan Paterson havetaken over the reins and have been unfoldingtheir ambitious plans for The Cock & Bull forthe past eight months. They are no strangersto this establishment having previouslyworked there six years ago, Victoria as awaitress and Ryan in the kitchen. They havegradually been bringing in their own ideas

and have already redecorated theconservatory and made the menu morelocal and sustainable. Victoria’s focus is onestablishing a casual dining experience foreveryone with great food and a relaxedatmosphere. Ryan endorses a simplifiedapproach to cooking with a traditional pubmenu focusing on Scottish and local producesuch as delicious steaks and haggis.

It’s no surprise then that this delightfulrestaurant is among three finalists in theCatering in Scotland (CIS) Excellence Awardsto be judged in Glasgow soon.

How nice too, following a delicious meal anda few ‘drams’, not to think about heading

home. The Cock & Bull offers bed-and-breakfast rooms in the Blairton Cottage,situated near the restaurant. Tuck into ahearty breakfast in the morning beforeheading home or continuing yourexploration of the Buchan countryside.

This innovative couple is already exploringthe possibility of increasing theaccommodation and looking at plans to useavailable outside space to hold corporatebarbecues and marquees in the summermonths.

This authentic eatery with rooms servesexcellent food at affordable prices and iseverything a country inn should be.

EVERYTHING A COUNTRYINN SHOULD BE

WWW.THECOCKANDBULL.CO.UK

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savourIssue 02 2014

School friends, Katie MacKintosh and

Rachel Allan, both 12, put their baking

prowess to charitable purpose recently,

when they organised a coffee morning to

raise money for the Friends of ANCHOR

(Aberdeen and North Centre for

Haematology, Oncology and

Radiotherapy) charity.

Katie and Rachel (pictured left with

guests), first year pupils at Westhill

Academy, invited their family, friends,

neighbours and teachers to enjoy baked

delights at Katie’s house. Tea, coffee,

cupcakes and banana bread were the

order of the day, with the girls asking for

a donation from attendees, managing to

collect a grand total of £375 for their

nominated charity.

Friends of ANCHOR was formed in 1997

to provide direct support to cancer and

haematology care in north-east Scotland.

The ANCHOR unit at Aberdeen Royal

Infirmary treats patients throughout the

North East as well as those from Orkney

and Shetland, covering all forms of cancer

leukaemia and benign blood disorders.

Money raised by the charity goes towards

non-NHS provided equipment, funding

local research at the University of

Aberdeen and Robert Gordon University,

and additional care, comfort and support

for patients to aid their wellbeing during

treatment.

Katie and Rachelbake for charity

38

savourIssue 02 2014

Bringing Beetrootto Your Doorstep

As the warm weather starts to creep inagain, we turn our attention tobarbecues, picnics and other occasionsthat bring us outdoors. Spring andsummer seasons mean parties, weddingsand all kinds of celebratory events, so ifyou’re planning something, why notensure you have some of the bestcaterers involved?

Beetroot Restaurants, The Adelphi Kitchenand The Courtyard pride themselves ondelivering the very best of Scottishproduce in a spectacular way. Therestaurants are celebrated as beingshining examples of the greatest Scottishproduce presented as a feast for the eyesand the taste buds. The restaurants caterto a slice of the foodie market but theBeetroot team felt that they could domore to fulfil your foodie needs. They gottheir heads together and Eat Beetrootwas born.

Eat Beetroot bring you the very best ofthe amazing food that you can savour inany Beetroot venue – but wherever YOUwant it!

Eat Beetroot delivers exceptional Scottishproduce presented with its own premiumBeetroot twist at a venue of your choice.

Whether you want to select from one ofour specially designed Eat Beetrootpackages or meet with us to design yourown bespoke package, you can beassured that your needs are of utmostimportant to us and we will deliver thepremium product that you expect fromus to you at your location.

Boardroom meetings can be a fairlysolemn affair and often end up beingheld over lunch, but there is no reasonthat the food needs to be solemn too!

Eat Beetroot platters are designed to giveall the premium celebrated tastes ofBeetroot Restaurants, but delivered toyou in your workplace. With amazingbreads, including gluten-free Pulsetta,locally sourced, fresh, high qualityingredients go into our fillings that arefreshly prepared daily. We make our ownchutneys and dressings in-house toensure only the highest quality isdelivered to you.

39

savourIssue 02 2014

A summer wedding is the perfectoccasion to let Eat Beetroot ensure thatyour guests have a taste sensation at yourreception.

We stand apart when it comes to creatingthe wow factor, ably backed by ourfriendly and creative team, making yourwedding reception hassle-free.

Food and catering is our speciality and,for a day as special as yours, you need adedicated team of specialists, so we havepartnered with the best and trustedsuppliers who have time and time againproven their excellent qualities, but mostimportantly, impeccable reliability.

A fun-filled reception, freshly made tastesensations, originality, saving time andhassle, flexibility without compromisingon quality … Eat Beetroot do all of thesewithout missing a beat. Why we standout from the rest is in our happy, easy-to-work-with team, ample resources, yearsof experience and bespoke ideas, butmostly our celebrated chef, care andattention to detail.

Eat Beetroot barbecues are a uniqueexperience that no other caterer cansupply. We bring our award-winningBeetroot dining experience to you in theform of everyone’s favourite diningexperience – Beetroot Barbecue!

We supply everything you need to ensurethat your guests are satisfied and wellfed. From napkins to knives, steaks tosausages, chef to cleaning crew – we

supply it all.

Executive chef and managing director ofEat Beetroot, Chris Tonner, is proud to beable to take his award-winning culinaryskills out of his restaurants – The AdelphiKitchen, The Courtyard and The TipplingHouse – to an even wider audience.

He said: “Whether it’s a party in your ownhouse, a wedding or organising a largecorporate event – indoors or outdoors,Eat Beetroot can cater for all tastes.

“From buffets and barbecues, sandwichesto steaks, we are always happy to sitdown and talk to our clients to discusswhat’s best for them.

“We tailor everything to their budgets,ensuring that they get the highest qualityof catering possible and that takes theworry out of organising the food anddrinks for their event, allowing them toenjoy themselves.”

Whether it’s canapés to complimentdrinks or a full catered buffet for 500, EatBeetroot will fulfil your requirements andgive your event that luxurious taste thatyour guests are sure to remember.

While they have pre-planned packages,they also understand that some peopleprefer to have more input into theirfunction and Eat Beetroot will work withyou to create a bespoke and mouth-watering experience – the only limits towhat can be supplied is imagination!

40

savourIssue 02 2014

NewsBitesSplendid Sundaysin Scotland’s Finest

Spend Sunday in regal splendour on

Royal Deeside in one of Scotland’s

finest country house hotels.

Raemoir House, set in 11 acres of

secluded lawn and parkland at

Banchory, is offering dinner, bed and

breakfast plus afternoon tea for two

for £245. The offer is valid on

Sundays until 30 November and is

subject to availability.

Afternoon tea includes homemade

cakes; dessert 'shots'; sandwiches;

and scones, cream and jam with a

choice of 15 different types of tea

and coffee.

To book, email [email protected] or

telephone (01330) 824884.

A young north-east chef is celebrating

after winning a top accolade in

recognition of his culinary excellence at

local tourism awards.

Alan Clarke, 22, who is senior chef de

partie at the Mercure Aberdeen Ardoe

House Hotel and Spa on the outskirts of

Aberdeen, was named Young

Ambassador of the Year at the Aberdeen

City and Shire Tourism Awards.

Over 300 industry professionals gathered

at Ardoe for the awards ceremony, which

was organised by the Aberdeen City and

Shire Hotels’ Association (ACSHA).

The Young Ambassador award category

was open to individuals under the age of

25 who have made a major impact and

contribution within their company, and

Mr Clarke was recognised for his

outstanding work at Ardoe since he

started in September 2012.

After working at the hotel for five

months, he was promoted from chef de

partie to senior chef de partie and, in

November 2013, he represented the

hotel at the Accor UK Professions

Challenge in London, where he won the

kitchen category.

He then spent four days in Paris earlier

this year, where he competed against

twelve top young chefs from across

Europe in the Professions Challenge.

Ardoe’s general manager, Peter Sangster,

said: “Alan is an extremely talented young

chef, who has shown real passion and a

drive to succeed since joining the kitchen

team in 2012.

“Ardoe’s executive head chef Richard

Yearnshire supports the development of

his talented kitchen staff, who are

continually offered opportunities to

further their professional development.

We are all extremely proud of Alan’s

achievements over the past two years

and it is great to see this being

recognised by industry professionals and

peers.”

Mr Clarke said: “I am honoured to receive

the award. I work with a fantastic team in

the kitchen and I am extremely grateful

for their continued help and support.”

Ardoe’s Young ChefReceives Top Award

savourIssue 02 2014

41

If dad’s a golfing fan, thanks to ourfamous Aberdeen weather, he may behard pushed to play outdoors. The LockerRoom, housed on the first floor of theflagship Gamola Golf store in MarketStreet, not only offers him the chance to

get some practice in, but also solves yourFather’s Day gift perfectly. They have thebest virtual golf in the city and areoffering lucky dads two hours of free golfwith every restaurant booking on Father’sDay. What a day dad would have! Theyalso boast a reliable, skilled andknowledgeable golfing professional whowill help enhance his game. Costs areonly £25 per half hour lesson on theacademy coaching system with videoanalysis - the ideal gift.

Not only that, but dad can also sit downwith the family and enjoy a finely tunedmenu, with dishes made with freshingredients and local produce. He’ll enjoy

the terrific collection of beverages too,whether he’s a wine lover or enjoys an aleor a wee dram. Mum can enjoy a fancycocktail too! Juniors are also catered forwith a top-notch menu for only £4.95.

You don’t, however, have to wait untilFather’s Day for a treat as the LockerRoom are now offering 50% off your foodbill on Mondays and Tuesdays. Anamazing offer!

It’s the perfect city centre location andfantastic harbour views make the LockerRoom ideal for lunch, dinner, a coffeestop or as a venue for meeting friends forafter-work drinks.

Dining andDriving for Dad

42

savourIssue 02 2014

Lemon syllabubA quick dessert than can be as indulgent or as healthy as you want.Experiment with your favourites.

Method

Whip the cream and sugar together until soft peaks form. Stir in the wine, most of the lemon zest and the juice. Spoon

into glasses or bowls, sprinkle with the remaining zest and serve with almond thins or berries.

Ingredients• 284ml tub whipping cream • 50g caster sugar • 50ml white wine • zest and juice from ½ lemon

• almond thins or berries, to serve

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43

It’s been several months since restaurant

owner Julie McNeil opened the doors of

her classy eatery in Correction Wynd in

Aberdeen’s stylish Merchant Quarter. It’s

pretty evident Julie has the recipe just

right, as steady bookings have been

testament to her exciting menus and

clever use of locally sourced products.

Perhaps it’s also due to Julie’s extra

enthusiasm for vegetarians, those with

food allergies and food intolerances as

they can relax with her carefully crafted

dishes, which redefine perceptions of

those boring, limited menus.

Believing in the vast diversity of delicious

food in the area, local companies supply

Merchant Bistro with the best ingredients.

Quality meats from Davidsons Specialist

Butcher, artisan breads from The Bread

Maker, Blue Flag freshly caught seafood

and unique produce from Devenick Dairy

grace the menu. Yes, they reduce the

food miles, but they also ensure you get

the very best local produce.

The seasonal changing menus are superb,

with lunch – served between midday and

3.00 p.m. – offering wild mushroom

toast, marinated courgette, a delicious

chorizo, chickpea, tomato and spinach

linguine, and scrumptious Merchant City

steak burger. The dinner menu is inspired,

with salt and pepper squid, smoked ham

hock salad, seafood linguine with mussel,

king prawn, crab and wild garlic, and a

mouth-watering 10oz rib-eye steak. Yum!

Dessert aficionados will love the lemon

posset, cheesecake and the Merchant

chocolate textures.

If you’re seeking a lunch or night out with

friends, a romantic rendezvous or simply

a quick bite, the relaxed atmosphere,

friendly service and delicious food make

The Merchant Bistro a must-visit.

Wynd and Dined

With open-wood fires, low-beamed ceilingsand beautiful Scottish countryside all around,The Lairhillock Inn is the perfect retreat fromthe city centre. However, for this family-runrestaurant, it’s the food that steals the showwith locally sourced delights to tantalise thetaste buds. That’s why Savour’s editor talks tohead chef, Gavin Henry, who shares hisculinary secrets.

Q: You have been chef at The Lairhillock Inn forfour years now. How has your food evolvedduring that time?

A: At the Lairhillock Inn, we like to serve traditionalScottish food with a modern twist, and we have astrong passion for using local and seasonalproduce. I am always interested in evolving withthe industry, so whenever possible I will try outnew ideas and methods and put my own spin on

them. I do my best to keep up with current foodtrends and I am constantly researching great ideasand flavour combinations.

Q: How does your menu change to reflect theseasons?

A: We strive to offer customers something neweach time they visit the restaurant and change themenu five to six times a year to accommodate thechanging seasons. I also have a selection ofspecials on every day that I can change to suitspecific seasonal dishes, for the Glorious Twelfth orBritish Asparagus Week.

We source the best seasonal produce and aim touse as much local produce as we can with our fishcoming from the local Aberdeen market, meatfrom a butcher in Aberdeen and vegetables fromMontrose. Nothing is ever pre-prepared or frozen.

Q: You offer fresh food and an eclectic menubut what exactly does that mean?

A: I would say fresh food is self-explanatory. Webuy fish straight from the market, our vegetablesare locally sourced where possible and we buycheese from the Devenick Dairy, which is just downthe road from the restaurant.

We are also lucky to have our own smokehousefacility on-site so we can provide dishes that arefull of flavour, such as home-smoked salmon andsmoked fish for the much-loved Cullen Skink. I alsolike to create innovative dishes, smoking differentfishes and meats, including venison and duck, tooffer something extra special for the customers.

Q: What would you say is your signature dish?

A: It is hard to pick one dish, but I would have tosay the stuffed lamb fillet, which I have on themenu at the moment.

Q: The Lairhillock Inn has two function rooms,Ostlers and Crynoch, for private dining andcelebrations for up to 20-60 guests. Is the sameextensive menu available for a private functionor is a specific menu chosen by the host?

A: We offer bespoke packages to all of ourscustomers, and each function room can be tailoredto suit individual needs, tastes and budgets. Welike to offer our customers a choice, and they caneither choose from the current menu or we canwork together to build a menu around theirspecific needs.

Guests really get the opportunity to personalisetheir menu, which is great for our small weddings,as they can make their big day extra special. Both

function spaces are separate from the main

restaurant, with their own entrance and facilities, so

guest can really make the space their own.

Q: I imagine things get quite hectic in the

kitchen and you clearly don’t work on your

own. Tell us a little about your kitchen brigade.

A: We have a great team at the restaurant, and

some have been part of the team for a number of

years so we all work very well together. I have two

full-time chefs (sous chef and senior chef de partie)

and two part-time chefs. My senior chef de partie

has worked his way up the ranks since he started

as a part-time kitchen porter while he was still at

school.

Our dessert chef, Isobel, has been with the

restaurant for an impressive 32 years, so her

knowledge of customer favourites is invaluable

when we create the menus.

Q: I’m a real fan of the Lairhillock Inn and have

eaten there often, but what would you say to

tempt the uninitiated to come along?

A: At The Lairhillock Inn we have a passion to

provide excellent Scottish home-made food, with

warm friendly service and hospitality. We are only

a 15-minute drive from Aberdeen city centre, with

beautiful countryside views so customers can relax

and enjoy hearty Scottish home-made food.

The restaurant is brimming with traditional Scottish

style and character throughout, and is perfect for

all occasions whether it’s a family celebration, a

romantic meal for two or a relaxed Sunday dinner.

46

savourIssue 02 2014

The herring and its importance to thenation’s fishing industry marks amilestone anniversary this year. Exactly101 years ago, the UK’s herring fleetrecorded its biggest ever annual catchwith some 577,000 tonnes of the fishbeing landed at ports around the UKcoastline.

The industry fell into decline after theboom year of 1913, but nowhere is theherring’s influence on north-eastScotland’s past celebrated more than atthe country’s biggest maritime heritagefestival.

Fishing past and present is a key theme ofthe Aberdeen Asset Management ScottishTraditional Boat Festival, which takesplace in Portsoy on the Aberdeenshirecoast from 27th to 29th June.

In addition to a collection of colourfulheritage vessels and demonstrations ofnautical crafts and traditional skills, thefestival will be staging a food fayre andcookery demonstrations over theweekend. Seafood will feature strongly:Portsoy fish merchant AG Sutherland will

be running its now legendary kipperbarbecue right next to the harbour, andthe food fayre will be sponsored by localproducer, Downies of Whitehills. AlanDownie, who heads up the firm, will alsobe taking part in the cookerydemonstration and will be sharing hissecrets to creating perfect fish dishes.

Local food historian and long-time friendof the festival, Liz Ashworth, hopes thatthe thousands of visitors will join in thecelebrations of the herring boom year. Itis estimated that around 75% of theherring landed in 1913 by the UK’s fleetof 1485 steam drifters was exported,including 2.5 million barrels of salt curedherring.

Liz explains: “The high fat content ofherring meant that, in order to preservethe fish, the herring had to be salted andpacked into barrels, hence the saltherring, or salted and smoked, whichgave us the kipper.

“Herring has played a very significant partin our history, not just in terms of thefishing industry, but in our social history

too. The fleet followed the herring shoalsall over the country and with them wentthe herring quines.

“These girls were often barely into theirteenage years and would spend monthsaway from home working on thequayside where they would gut, salt andpack the fish into barrels. It was incrediblyhard work and the contribution theseyoung women made to the success of theindustry should not be forgotten.

“Herring is in season at different times ofthe year and, as luck would have it, theshoals arrive in the Moray Firth in June –just in time for the festival. There will bea number of cooking-with-seafooddemonstrations at the food marquee, anda team of experts will be on hand toanswer any questions about cooking withthis very healthy fish.”

After falling to low levels in recent years,responsible fishing by Scottish boats hasallowed stocks of herring to recover. Lastyear, Scottish boats landed 40,000 tonnesof North Sea herring, making it thesecond most valuable fishery for the fleet.

Celebrating theHumble Herring

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47

Fresh Herring in Amalfi LemonWhile Liz’s recipes are very traditional herring dishes with connections to the North East,Seafood Scotland has put together a more continental take on herring with thisMediterranean-inspired recipe.

Method1: Cut each fish fillet into three pieces. Arrange with the bay leaves in a single layer in a large shallow dish and squeeze

the juice of five of the lemons over the top. Thinly slice the remaining lemon and set aside.

2: Season, then cover loosely with cling film and allow to marinate in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours.

3: Remove the fish from the marinade and transfer to a serving dish. Pour over the olive oil and garnish with the remaining

thinly sliced lemon.

4: Serve as a starter with focaccia.

Ingredients• 455g herring fillets – must be very fresh as the fish is cooked by citrus juice rather than heat • 4 bay leaves • 6 lemons,

preferably Amalfi or Sicilian • Sea salt and crushed black pepper • 200ml olive oil

48

savourIssue 02 2014

Dill and Poppy Seed Soda BreadMake this bread the day before you want to eat it

1: Heat oven to 200ºC and put a flat baking sheet in the oven to heat.

2: Mix the milk with the lemon juice in a jug to sour it.

3: Tip the flours into a large bowl and rub in the butter with your fingertips until it resembles fine crumbs.

4: Stir in the remaining dry ingredients and dill, saving some of the poppy seeds for the top, then make a well in the centre and pour in 350ml of the soured milk. With your hand, or a wooden spoon, draw the dry ingredients into the wet to make a very soft, quite sticky dough. Add the rest of the liquid if you need to. Be careful not to overwork the dough as this will make your loaf tough.

5: Lightly flour your work surface and tip the dough onto it. With well-floured hands, roughly shape into a round, then turn the dough over to reveal its smoother side. Sprinkle a little flour over the hot baking sheet, then lift the dough onto it. Press down slightly, giving a flattened, round-ish loaf about two fingertips deep.

6: Using a sharp, non-serrated knife, slash a cross deeply into the top of the dough. Scatter with the rest of the poppy seeds, and then bake for 25-30 minutes until well-risen and deep golden colour.

7: Give it a tap on the bottom - it should sound hollow. Cool for a few minutes, then transfer to a wire rack.

8: To serve, cut into quarters along the lines of the cross, then slice and lightly toast.

Ingredients• 400ml milk • 1 tbsp lemon juice • 350g plain flour, plus extra for dusting • 140g wholemeal flour • 50g butter, straight

from the fridge • 1 tsp caster sugar • 2 tsp salt • 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda • handful of dill leaves • 2 tbsp poppy seeds

The AGA cooker treats food

differently. Put simply, it doesn’t

blast food with drying direct

heat. Instead, radiant heat from

the cast iron ovens gently cooks

food, locking in flavour,

moisture and goodness,

meaning the food you serve

tastes delicious.

A great way to experience AGA

cooking first-hand is by

attending a live AGA

demonstration. You’ll learn AGA

cooking techniques, meet other

AGA owners, taste the delicious

food that’s been cooked and

receive some great recipe ideas.

AGA cookers that are builtfor modern life

With the exciting launch of the

new generation of electric AGA

cookers – the AGA Dual Control

and the AGA Total Control –

there really is a model to suit

everyone. Built for the 21st

century, the new generation

AGA cookers can be operated in

a way that suits modern life.

What’s more, you will save a

huge amount on running costs

and these new models can be

sited anywhere in the kitchen,

including an island unit.

AGA Total Control

The innovative AGA Total

Control is designed for those

who want ultimate flexibility. Its

ovens and hotplates can be

controlled independently and

there’s even an additional

feature which allows some

models to be controlled

remotely via a mobile phone,

tablet or laptop.

AGA Dual Control

The new AGA Dual Control is

designed for those who like

flexibility but still want to take

advantage of the indefinable

AGA warmth in the kitchen.

With this clever model, the

hotplates can be switched on

and off as the owner pleases

and the ovens can either be on

full or set at a lower economy

setting.

You don’t have to travel far for a really spectacularshort break. Less than an hour from Aberdeen, you canenjoy the magnificent scenery of Royal Deeside and itsequally renowned hospitality. Majestic castles, variedsporting activities, amazing walks and world-famousgatherings make the area a very special part ofScotland.

However, there is one other acclaimed activity: Youmust get your teeth into…the amazing food!

Just 18 miles from Aberdeen sits the picturesque townof Banchory, home to a host of amazing hotels andrestaurants. Sheltered in acres of magnificentwoodland and parkland on the edge of this prettyvillage, Tor-na-Coille, a charming boutique countryhouse hotel, offers a professional, friendly service andgreat food.

Stunningly situated on the bank of the Feugh river isthe unique and individually styled 22-bedroomBanchory Lodge Hotel where the restaurant offers soul-satisfying food, expertly created using the finestingredients and local seasonal produce.

Sitting in eleven acres of secluded lawn and parkland,perfect for a romantic and relaxing break, sits themajestic Raemoir House Hotel. Offering quality cuisineof the highest standard, it is the only property to havebeen voted Scotland’s Best Country House Hotel twoyears in succession. In 2013 it won the titles ofScotland’s Top Chef and Chefs’ Team.

Located in the village of Aboyne, nestling on the banksof the beautiful river Dee, The Boat Inn is the perfectplace to get away from it all, relax and enjoy somewell-earned peace and quiet. Provider of first classhotel accommodation in Aboyne, the Inn has retainedmany original features, such as exposed granitefireplaces and internal pine work. They serve qualityfood, using the best ingredients, locally sourced.

Royal Deeside and the Cairngorms is a destinationrenowned for its acres of rich, fertile land and the clearspring waters that cut through it. This distinctivelandscape plays a key role in producing the best home-grown ingredients, which are then used to create tastydishes in the region’s restaurants and hotels.

Cambus O’May Cheese Company has built a businessout of celebrating the best of the local area throughthe taste – and naming – of their cheeses. The Ballater-based operation stocks delis and shops throughoutAberdeenshire, as well as selling at local markets.Visitors to the Cambus O’May’s facility outside Ballaterare invited to watch the Deeside creamery in actionfrom the viewing area, while the more hardcore fan canindulge in an accredited one-day cheesemaker course.

Dee Valley Confectioners, established by the Skenebrothers in 1965, are manufacturers and suppliers oftraditional handmade sweets including boilings (suchas Soor Plooms), Lucky Tatties, fudge and tablet, andare based in the Station Square in Ballater.

HM Sheridan, which holds Royal Warrants from bothHer Majesty The Queen and HRH The Prince of Wales,is a traditional butcher’s that has been trading since1963. Their beef is purchased from local farms andmatured for 21 days: Lamb is local black face, heather-fed for a unique, rich taste; pork is sourced fromAberdeenshire and reared outdoors; and venison ispurchased from the wild herd on the local estate. As itis wild, the venison has a very distinctive flavour. It isalso a very healthy, lean meat.

Whether staying for a short break or shopping, for thatexclusive Highland gift there’s plenty to see, do and eatin Royal Deeside.

The Loch Kinord Hotel is a delightful three-starvillage inn, originally built in the 19th century byQueen Victoria's doctor. Just five miles from Ballaterin glorious Royal Deeside, this family-run hotel offerscomfortable single, double and family rooms and isfamed for its AA Rosette and Taste of Scotlanddining. Guests, who are welcomed with personalisedservice, are offered quiet elegant rooms and guestsuites, and presented with amazing dishes using thevery best of local produce. There is often live folkmusic taking place with the Deeside Sessions. Thenewly built self-catering log cabins are an ideal baseto explore the area and each has two bedroomssleeping up to four guests. The hotel offers access tothe River Feugh for fishing and a ghillie who willpick up and return guests from the hotel.

Loch Kinord is ideally situated for exploring RoyalDeeside. Balmoral Castle and Crathie Church are 30minutes away and the Lecht and Glenshee skicentres an easy drive. The area has an abundance ofdelightful Highland golf courses, superb River Deefishing and the Gliding Centre at Aboyne is nearby.

With only 22 rooms and suites, this family- and pet-friendly hotel provides individual attention, a ‘homeaway from home’ for guests with service tailored totheir needs. Spacious and stylishly designed, thisuniquely crafted hideaway seamlessly blendsupscale tranquillity with affordable charm andunderstated luxury. This characterful hotelaccommodation is just perfect for business, leisureor weekend breaks – or a long-term stay inAberdeenshire.

The award-winning chef ‘Majic’ (Maciej) has been at

Loch Kinord Hotel for over two years. He ispassionate about food and only uses local producewherever he can. He also regularly visits the farmswhere the meat comes from, even helping thefarmers with butchery.

As you might expect of a small hotel so blessed inits setting, fresh local produce is the particularspeciality. The extensive menus offer an interestingchoice of traditional Scottish and a few internationalfavourites, chosen and carefully prepared by theskilled team of chefs who prepare special dishesdaily. The menu boasts freshly cooked,uncomplicated cuisine, easy on the palate with localflavours always shining through, showcasing thebest of ‘Scotland’s natural larder’. Enjoy theambience of the dining room and let the cheerfulwaiting staff serve you fresh meat, game or fishaccompanied by locally grown, seasonal vegetables.

If you’d rather be a little more independent, thelodges located in the grounds and backing on tothe Muir of Dinnet Nature Reserve will be perfect foryou. They have a fully fitted kitchen includingintegrated dishwasher and fridge freezer, spaciousopen plan lounge/kitchen/dining area and a deckedpatio area to enjoy the summer sunshine. Thebathroom has a bathtub and shower. The lodges aredouble-glazed and centrally heated making them acosy retreat after a day out on Royal Deeside.

This is the perfect destination for a short break,offering comfortable hotel accommodation withgreat food or private self-catering lodges, all withinone of the most beautiful parts of Scotland.

The only hotel to have won the title of Scotland's

Country House Hotel of the Year two years in

succession, Raemoir is carving out an increasingly

grand reputation among a wide range of guests

from food lovers to executives wanting a tranquil

setting for company meetings.

It has also been a home away from home for

numerous celebrities appearing in Aberdeen,

including Oasis, Van Morrison, Jamie Cullum, Katie

Melua, Penelope Keith, Sir Cliff Richard and Michael

Ball.

The historic 20-bedroom Banchory hotel, part of

which dates back to 1715, sits in 11 acres of

secluded lawn and parkland surrounded by 3,500

acres of hill and forest in Royal Deeside, a setting

which ensures privacy. Yet Aberdeen and its

international airport are less than half an hour away.

After winning the top country house hotel awards in

2011 and 2012, last year it was named the top

country house hotel and most romantic hotel in the

North East.

Its four-poster bedrooms overlooking the grounds

are perfectly suited to a romantic and relaxing

break. And booking it as an exclusive venue makes

the organiser the talk of the town. It’s available for

a private party, wedding or corporate use, or a base

from which to explore the region’s Whisky, Castle

and Golf Trails and wealth of walks and activities. It

also affords easy access to the Cairngorms National

Park.

Its Private Sitting Room can cater for a meeting or

dining for up to 16 people and the larger Georgian

Room accommodates up to 70.

The Hill of Fare behind the hotel is accessible

directly from the grounds and provides increasingly

wonderful panoramas the higher you climb. Near

the top it is possible to see large swathes of the

north-east of Scotland countryside with vistas to the

North Sea.

Food is at the top of its agenda. Owner Neil Rae

commented: “Our location is perfect for food lovers

from throughout the North East, Angus and beyond.

Our reputation for the food they eat when they get

here is becoming unmatched in the area.”

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One of the best and possibly most flavoursome experiences for kids is a trip toWagamama. They have a fantastic range of mini Japanese dishes the kids will love. Maindishes include mini chicken katsu and chicken ramen, and most things on the menu arehealthy and nutritious. A fruity ice lolly to follow keeps the kids happy but, what’s more,mums and dads will enjoy amazing food too. www.wagamama.com

Fairly similar, and in close proximity in Union Square, is the popular Yo! Sushi. The kidswill love choosing a dish from the conveyor belt passing by, all colour-coded to avoidpricing confusion and each one offering delicious content. From popcorn shrimptempura to chicken yakisoba, the kids will love it – but watch they don’t chosesomething just a little too hot!! www.yosushi.com

Speaking of the above restaurants, there is no shortage of kids’ eating places inUnion Square. Giraffe, Zizzi, Las Iguanas, Nando’s, TGI Friday, Chiquito, Ask Italian,Frankie and Benny’s, Pizza Hut and Prezzo all cater for kids. Pop in before you takethe little darlings to view the latest kids’ movie at Cineworld!www.unionsquareaberdeen.com/dining

Staying with Union Square, but on the ground floor, is the acclaimed pan-Asianrestaurant, Cosmo. This is great for kids as they can help themselves to authenticdishes from any of the nine countries represented - China, Singapore, Japan, Malaysia,Korea, Thailand, Mongolia, Vietnam and India. They can eat what they like and it’stremendous value, but best to book in advance. www.cosmo-restaurants.co.uk

Out of town and a little less exotic but still worth a visit is the Wynford Farm Playbarn.As it is literally on a farm, the food is wholesome and mostly made on the premises.They offer their own home-made mini burgers and mini pies plus a great selection ofsandwiches and baked potatoes. Probably even more enticing, the kids can let offsteam on the play frame while you relax in the quiet, bright and comfortable café. It’sa winner with me!! www.wynfordfarm.com

You’ll really love a trip out to Touched by Scotland in Oyne and so will the kids. Gadie’srestaurant has a ‘little menu’ bulging with great food for the little ones. From roastchicken breast and hand-cut chips, scrambled eggs and smoked salmon on toast to littlesticky toffee puddings and a huge selection of milk shakes, the kids will adore it ... andyou’ll enjoy the peace and quiet! www.touchedbyscotland.com

savour issue 02 - 2014

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