FROM DRABTO FABSPICED KEBABSwith POMEGRANATERELISH

ORANGE-BRAISEDwith GARLIC andFRESH HERBS

CHIPOTLE TOSTADASwith FENNEL andBEANS

MARKBITTMAN'S

PASTA, PANCAKES,TURNOVERS-

EVEN TRAIL MIX!

NEW*. SUPERMARKET

. QU|CK & EASY

DINNERS

MACAROONS VS.WHOOPIE PIES

P. 100

WINTERETAWAYS

AMALFI COAST

LAS VEGAS

JAMATCA &LITTLE DIX BAY

. #;l

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-44

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HE FRESH CUCUMBER JUICE AT JAKE'S,a bohernian-chic hotel onJarnaicals Treasure Beach, hasa grassy taste and a tangy kick ofspice that lingers onthe back of rny tongue. It's a fittingly refreshing welcomedrink. "What's its secret?" I ask Dougie, the 6o-somethingcaretaker at the poolside bar. Frorn inside a thatchedhut displaying the requisite Bob Marley photo, he smilesknowingly. "Local cucumbers and ginger. Freshest youcan get, rnon."

This enthusiasm for fresh, local, organic food is bynow a well-established mantra in the food world, but it'sIate in corning to the Caribbean. Agricultural productionin the region has actually declined with the boom oftourism, and farrners have Ieft the field for lucrative jobsin the hospitality industry. Until recently, low food pricesrnade it easy for residents of Caribbean islands to buynecessities from overseas-the region now irnports food ata stalgering annual cost of nearly $3 bilhon. Even on largeislands likeJamaica that are still teeming with farrnland,bad roads and high prices rnake ftesh local food a lastresort for the booming resorts. Complicating rnatters evenfurther are inter-island trade restrictions: Chances are,a rnango in the British Virgin Islands arrived frozen on a

plane from the United States, rather than fresh offa boatfrom nearby St. Lucia.

But there's a seisrnic culinary shift going on inthe Caribbean, to source rnore produce locally, andwhen possible, organically. Increasingly, guests withsophisticated palates-accustorned to enjoying organic foodat their local farmers' markets-are demanding rnore fromtheir Caribbean food experience. "'We've always catered toan arts and filrn crowd who appreciate that we source mostproduce locally. Now they are going further, asking, 'Is itorganic?"' explains Jason Henzell, proprietor ofJake's,the low-key 2g-room getaway, long an insider favorite ofvacat ioni ng fash ion istas.

Jake's is among a new crop of resorts making an effortto offer organic produce and sustainably caught seafood,frorn Eric Ripert's organic tasting menu at the Ritz-Carlton

106 BoNAPPETrr.coM / TANUARY 20 |

Grand Cayman to the garden-to-table cooking classestaught at Flermitage Bay on Antigua. Even cruise lineshave gotten into the swim, with Holland America sourcingorganic for passengers on request. I decided to experiencethis culinary Caribbean revolution firsthand by samplingthe rich flavors ofthe food atJake's, and later at the BritishVirgin Islands' luxurious Rosewood Little Dix Bay. Ifound thern to be a world apart ftorn stereotypical notionsof all-inclusive Caribbean resorts that fill bland buffetswith irnported food. But while the dividend for travelerscouldn't be sweeter-beautifully sourced rneals burstingwith West Indies spirit-I discovered that in the Caribbean,it's not so easy being green.

Because of its hands-on approach to working withlocal farmers, Jake's seemed the perfect spot to beginmy quest to discover how resorts are responding tolocavore demands.

My first night, under the lanterns at the alfrescorestaurant atJake's, the srnoke from kingfish grillingnearby blends with hints of sweetness from bougainvillea.I choose pumpkin curry with chickpeas from a range ofvegetarian dishes featured on chalkboard menus. Thecurry is understated, letting the purnpkin shine. Thisisland gourd tastes milder than its Arnerican counterpart-as if it, too, is relaxed by gentle island winds. Alongsideit, I have a coconut-laced succotash ofbutter beans, carrot,and corn.

The restaurant fills with an easy rnix of Americanhoneyrnooners, British fashion plates, and Germanbackpackers. Feeding thern all is chefDockery Lloyd, whohas overseen the food atJake's for three years and sourcesmost of the hotel's produce locally. Surprisingly, Jake'sdoesn't wear its locavore passion on its sleeve. Other than a

small hand-painted sign at check-in encouraging visitors tosupport area farrners, guests might never know that nearly80 percent of the food comes {iom within a few rniles.

"Cooking with local ingredients is just how I grew up.And I like that the organic produce has a stronger, richerflavor," Lloyd says with aJarnaican lilt.

The next rnorning, I wake to the sounds of crashingwaves outside rny TV-free cottage and take my first sip ofvelvety Blue Mountain Coffee. My peanut porridge rnakesrne reconsider breakfast cereal, Forget gray gruel; thisflaming orange breakfast soup cornbines the hearty flavorofjust-picked raw nuts with the silkiness of coconut milk.The chef tells me the secret to the porridge's vibrant hue,fresh, unprocessed peanuts. In short order, I am fortifiedfor rny trip to area farms that supplyJake's.

Escorting me on this adventure is Arnerican Liz Solms,agricultural consultant toJake's, who in 20o$ receiveda grant to establish an organic farrners' cooperative inTreasure Beach and stayed on whenJake's wanted to expandthe prograrn further. "Many of the farrners have traditionalRastafarian beliefs about cooking food that is pure andnatural, so rnany are anxious to stop using traditional

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lfljtllD llEDiEY,' At Jake's in Jamaica, r:hef l-)oclrery Lloyd prepares his favorite chiirlhoorl dishesi. such asthis Caritrbean succotash with cosonut rnilk. These days, his ingredlie:lts are not oniY local, but also or('anic.

(AntBBEAll ltEEt./ C.lockrl/r.se fion] top Jeft: Virgin Gorda's Sugar Mili rierves halihut with tandc){rri sl}ices; IluliMclesn *mhraced pesticide-free {anning in Jnmaiila six years ago; Mcl,ean now supplics to ihs ;estaut;ttlt at Jakc's

fertilizer and pesticides," she explains as we stop at the farrnof 7o-year-old Dull Mclean, who has earth-worn handsand an infectious smile. He proudly ieads me throughrows of carrots and sweet peppers that he began farmingorganicaliy six years ago. After cautioning rne not to stepon his watermelon plants, we pause in the shade of a newlyconstructed greenhouse.

"Less chemical is better for your health. And everythingjust tastes better. You've never had sweet potatoes like these,"he says, handing me some just-picked root vegetables.Mclean instructs me to take them back toJake's, rnakingme a cog in the farrn-to-table wheel. After depositing thefarmed treasures with Chef Lloyd, I'm dispatched to dinnerand choose the traditionalJamaican specialty escoueitch, tlnefish dish imported to the Caribbean by the Spanish in thelate rsoos. The flaky broiled red snapper is topped witha spicy vinegar medley of Scotch bonnets, sweet peppers,onions, and carrots. The result is a fiery delight that Iravenously consurne with the help of a Red Stripe beer,and then the chefappears with a dessert fashioned frornMclean's produce. The heavenly slice of sweet potato ponewith mango syrup is thick and dense, like bread pudding.The mango dollop heightens the sweetness of the potato. Asthe sun sets and the waves crash within striking distance ofrny table, I realize how lucky I arn to have followed this dish'sorganic ingredients frorn the hands of a dedicated farmer tothe kitchen ofa caring chef.

At the opposite end of the glarn spectrurn flomJake'sis Rosewood Little Dix Bay, a place rnore preppie luxe thanhippie chic that is surmounting a different set of challengesin sourcing local produce. Set on a stunning half-rnilecrescent bay, the property transformed genteel VirginGorda into a jet-set destination when it was built in r964by pioneering venture capitalist Laurance Rockefeller. Theproperty has been extensively renovated, but it retains a

retro ambiance, with glass-walled hexagonal villas where thecharacters of Mad Men would happily vacation.

UnlikeJarnaica, Virgin Gorda is a piace wherebountiful harvests are a tough row to hoe. Little rainfalland steady dry winds rnake the geography almost desert-like, with cactus dotting the rnountains that slope down tothe sparkling Caribbean. But the lack of an organized andlarge-scale farming culture hasn't discouraged chef HemantDadlani, who arrived two years ago with an ambitious planto increase the resort's access to organic produce.

"Freshness is the soul in my cooking," says Dadlani.'A tornato grown in Holland that cornes to rne via Miamidoesn't taste the same as the one grown on the island. Ourguests want that special local flavor," the Udaipur, India,native tells me as I finish my lunch with a scoop of tamarindsorbet. It brings to mind a Sweet Tart candy-first, a srnackofbitterness that causes a pucker, then ajolt ofsweetness.

"My pastry chef picks the tamarind ftorn trees on his wayhere every rnorning. Then we add ginger. Fresh, of course,"Dadlani says. Irnmediately, I order two more scoops.

Currently, Dadlani has a group of employees, theirfamilies, and friends growing produce for him; hementions a hot pepper sauce homemade by restaurantworker Venita Chaprnan. Overhearing Chapman's narne,a fellow guest leans over and shares a tip he's garneredafter many visits-Chaprnan's hot sauce is not for sale, butshe might pack a bottle for rne to take home if I'm lucky.

Dadlani allows rne to tag along on a round of visitsto local growers as he tries to find new produce sourcesand encourage current vendors to diversify offerings.Just past a farm that supplies pork to the resott, heagrees to buy all the mangoes produced by the trees ofan 8r-year-old native who recently returned to the islandafter retiring from teaching in the Bronx. Later, whiletouring a former employee's farrn that supplies theresort with a variety of tornatoes, Dadlani offers to payfor a greenhouse in exchange for all the peppers growninside. As a thank-you, the farrner gives hirn severaljust-off-the-vine eggplants for tonight's dinner. Finally,at a new hydroponics operation, Dadlani guaranteeshe will buy whatever microgreens it can produce-regardless ofquality.

"This is a gamble," the chef says. "But if it pays off,it could rnean some of the freshest lettuce available."

Back at Little Dix Bay, after a lazy dip in the sparklingwater, I head to the resort's Sugar Mill restaurant. Frornthe first bite of the Asian-inflected cuisine, I taste therewards of the chef's local hustle that I witnessed earlier.The colossal prawn "Greek salad" features a lusciouscube ofwaterrnelon set on rnicrogreens frorn thehydroponics lab with a punch of Scotch bonnet firepowered by Chapman's hot sauce. I ask rny waiter to letChaprnan know I'm a fan, hoping to score a souvenrrbottle. Next, the delicate hoisin-mopped pork bellyrnelts in rny rnouth, and I am suddenly sad that I onlyordered an appetizer portion. Then the braised halibutfi.llet that srnells of coconut and lemon revives me: it'sserved with srnoked eggplant caviar made from just-picked vegetables.

The next day, as I reluctantly board my departureferry, Chaprnan appears with a bottle of her hot sauce."For you," she says. 'A little sornething to help youremember the freshness of the islands." Not so longafter, back horne in a drizzly NewYork, I stare listlesslyat rny coffee, wheat toast, and a couple ofbreakfast eggs.I realize I'rn suffering frorn a particularly bad case ofpost-island blues, so I reach in the refiigerator for Chapman'scare package. Just a drop or two ofher spicy sauce on myhuelos reminds rne of how luckv I was to soend time inthe Caribbean. Doubly lr.rcky. ihese days, since resortsincludingJake's and Little Dix Bay are responding to thedernands of locavores like me.

JoN pAUL BUCHMEyER rs thr ouf&or of flrr fiunrrrr,ru, incDro0

A lirh abei O it1 ; rcari nro-r, at .4f! {i'ii l blq: r'o*r.

IANUARY 20 ./ BONAPPETTT.COM 109

FtxDlltGCRGAXIC|lt tHECARIBBEAII

There's a

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ll0 ,/ ANUARY 2Lr

l.P.B.

HCI S"UrF// malls the bar atHonlemade Scotcti Jake's, where fresh,bonnet pepper saufle squeezed juicesi$ Vellita Chapmen's pack a prnch evenspecialiy. nougie wiihout rum.

CARIBBEAN SUCCOTASH6 T$ B $ERVTNGS Locai rsland vegetables

are used n this colorful dish offered at

lal<e's in Jamaica. Serve with brown rice oras a s de dish with f sh or chrcl<en,

PREP 40 minutes TCITAL 40 m nutes

2 cups fresh or frozen double-peeledfava beans, butter beans, or babylima beans (about g ounces),thawed

3/a cup diced peeled carrots

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup chopped onion

1 cup diced zucchini

1 cup diced red bell pepper

2 garlic cloves, pressed

1Y2 teaspoons minced freshthyme

2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels,thawed

1 cup diced unpeeled Persiancucumber or English hothousecucumber

74 cup canned unsweetened coconutmilkLarge pinch of cayenne pepper

Large pinch of freshly gratednutmeg

INGREDTENT tNFO Doube peeed rava

beans (beans that have been removedfrom their pods, then indrvidually peeled)can be found at lY ddle Eastern markets.Unsweetened coconut milk can be foundat many supermarl<ets and at Indtan,

Southeast Asian, and Latin marl<ets.

Cook fava beans in large saucepan ofboiling saited waler until just Lender,

about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon,transfer fava beans to medium bowl.Add diced carrots to same saucepanof boiling water; cook until carrots aretender, about 4 minutes. Drain andtransfer carrots to small bowl.

Heat oil in heavy large sklllet overmedium-high heat. Add chopped onion,diced zucchini, diced be]] pepper, pressed

FOR COI.IPLETE NUTRITIONAL INFOFOR ALL OF THE RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE, GOTo 6onappelil,c om /recipes

garlic cloves, and minced fresh Lhyme.

Sautd untll beginnlng to soften, about3 minutes. Add corn, diced cucumber,and reserved carrots; stir 1 minute.Add beans, unsweetened coconut mtlk,cayenne pepper, and freshly gratednutmeg. Stir until heated through, about1 minute. Season succotash to taste withc^lt 2n.l

BRAISED HALIBUTFILLETS in COCONUT ondLEMONGRASS roith SMOKEDEGGPLANT and TOMATO-GINGER CHUTNEY4 SERVTNGs A little coconut milk adds

richness to th s sophisticated d sh fromthe Sugar lYill restaurant at RosewoodLittle Dix Bay.

PREP 50 minutes T0TAL I hour 5 minutes

1 large eggplant (about 1%

pounds)

172 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon Tandoori Spice Blend (see

recipe)Yz teaspoon vegetable oil1 8-ounce tomato, peeled, seeded,

diced2 tablespoonsextra-virgin

olive oil1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh

cilantro1 teaspoon grated peeled fresh ginger

1 cup canned unsweetened coconutmilk

% cup bottled clam juice

1 lemongrass stalk, bottom 3 inchesonly, thinly sliced

4 6-ounce halibut fillets4 red radishes, trimmed, scrubbed,

cut into matchstick-size pieces (forgarnish)

Daikon radish sprouts (for garnish)

Microgreens (for garnish;optional)

INGREDtgNT tNFo Unsweetened coconutmill< can be .fbund at many supermari<ets

and at Indian, Southeast Asian, and Latin

markets. Lemongrass and daikon radishpr out. ca1 be folr-d n he p-oduc^ se611ep

of some supermarl<ets and at Asian markets,lYicrogreens are sold at some supermarkets,farmers' markets, and specialty foods stores.

Char eggplant directly over gas flameor in broiler until blackened all over andeggplant begins to collapse. turningoccasionally, about 15 mtnutes. Place

eggplant in large bowl; cool 10 minutes.Peel off skin; place eggplant flesh instrainer set over large bowl. Press oneggplant to release juices; let drain 15

minutes. Transfer eggplant to mediumbowl; add lemon juice. Mix TandooriSpice Blend and vegetable oi] in smallbowl; add to eggplant and mash with forkto coarse puree. Season smoked eggplantto taste with salt and pepper. Do AHEAD

Smoked eggplant can be made 1 dayahead. Cover and chill. Brino to room

temperature before using.Mix diced tomato, olive oil, chopped

fresh cilantro, and grated fresh ginger insmall bowl; season chutney to taste withsalt and pepper. Do AHEAD Chutney canbe made 4 hours ahead. Let stand at roomtemperature.

Bring unsweetened coconut milk,clam juice, and lemongrass to simmer inlarge skillet. Sprinkle halibut with saltand pepper; add to skillet. Simmer untilhalibut is just opaque in center, 3 to 4

minrrtac nar ai.lo

Spoon dollop of smoked eggplant intocenter of each of 4 shallow bowls. Usingslotted spatula, transfer halibut fillets tobowls; place atop eggplant. Spoon dollopof tomato-ginger chutney alongside.Garnish with radishes, sprouts, andmicrogreens, rf desired.

TANDOORI SPICE BLENDMAKES 2 TABLESFOONS

FLUS 1 TEA.SPOON

PREr 5 m nutes ToTAL 5 minutes

1 teaspoon ground ginger

L teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Whisk all ingredients in small bowl toblend. Do AHEAD Spice blend can bemade 2 weeks ahead. Slore airtighl. atroom temperature.