lecture - fashion stories 2014
TRANSCRIPT
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FASHION STORIES:
SEQUENCE AND THE PAGE
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Fashion photographs, what are they about
clothing?atmosphere...
associations...stylistic symbolism...
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Fashion photographs, what are they about
clothing?atmosphere...associations...
stylistic symbolism...
Montage / Sequence / Reference
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Fashion photographs, what are they about
clothing?atmosphere...associations...
stylistic symbolism...Montage / Sequence / Reference
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Fashion photographs?Fashion sequencesTo look at some key basic ideas in
fashion photography through two
particular fashion stories
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(Group) Analysis of key roles(via Ulrich Lehmann, Fashion Photography, Chic-clicks, 2002)Production:
PhotographerModelRhetoric:
GestureNarrativeText
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Hymn
David Sims
Arena Homme +
A/W 2012
Vacation
Daniel Riera
Fantastic Man
S/S 2012
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Thoughts on sequence?
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Photographer?Style Classical, clarity
A play on deadpanStatic composition / Sharp line / Clear colours
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Photographer?Style Classical, clarity
A play on deadpanShowing clothes? (an old approach)Demonstrating editorial vision?Static composition / Sharp line / Clear colours
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Model?(via Ulrich Lehmann)The models body is the support of the clothes, an abstraction
that then the clothes render realIt is the clothes that make the subject
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Is there an interplay here?What is the model choice here?How does it affect the clothing?
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What is the model choice here?
How does it affect the clothing?
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What is the model choice here?
How does it affect the clothing?
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Mert & Marcus
Versace Men campaign
2012
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Collier SchorrWorkshopFantastic Man, A/W 2013
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Collier SchorrWorkshop
Fantastic Man, A/W 2013
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Gesture?The deadpanThe non-gesture, with a positive outlook
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Gesture?The deadpanThe non-gesture, with a positive outlook
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Gesture?The deadpanThe non-gesture, with a positive outlook
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Narrative?A tripA vacation
Health.The healthy body
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Narrative?A tripA vacation
Health.The healthy body
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Narrative?A fashion story issue to keep the story open / ambiguous andyet retain a universal element for viewer identificationLehmann:
*to keep a story simple, to not exclude the viewer, to not detractfrom clothes
*to keep narrative compelling and generate anticipation, to link
the images, to draw spectator in
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An early fashion paradigm
Healthy Outdoors from mannequin to movementBaron George Hoyningen-Huen
Martin Munkacsi
Louise Dahl-Wolfe
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Baron George Hoyningen-Huen, British Vogue,
August 8th1928
Baron George Hoyningen-Huen, American Vogue,July 5th1930
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Louise Dahl-Wolfe, American Harpers Bazaar, May 1938
Toni Frissell, American Vogue, January 1st1939
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Martin Munkacsi, American Harpers Bazaar, June 1936
Martin Munkacsi, American Harpers Bazaar, December 1933
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Alasdair Mclellan
Vogue, March, 2014
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Martin MunkacsiBeach!c.1930
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Edward Steichen, American Vogue, June 1st1925
A key shift
From clothing as honorific / sign of status
to fashion as centering on the body
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Richard Avedon
Harpers Bazaar1957
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Annie Leibovitz
Prada campaign
2014
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Cecil Beaton
Lady Ottoline Morrell
1927
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Erwin BlumenfeldThe Princess of Pearls
Harpers Bazaar, 1939
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HiroRudi Gernreich
Harpers Bazaar1966
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Current vogue:Alasdair McLellan
In Glorious MonoS/S 2013
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Helmut Newton, French Vogue, November 1981
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Guy Bourdin, Charles Jourdan advertising, Summer 1975;
Spring 1975 variant; Spring 1975
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Julia NoniHow to Look Good NakedBon, S/S 2014
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Daniel RieraButt magazine
2010
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Mario SorrentiPerfect Ten
W Magazine, 2014
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Mario Sorrenti
The Rules of Deception
V Magazine no.582009
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Oliver Zahm: On the Marked Change in Fashion PhotographyFashion photography*is a cannibalistic vampire (devours times, trends, bodies,
youth)*sits between advertising and pornographyFrom advertising (which seeks to incite desire for the object) it
retains the imperative of legibility and ease of decoding the
fashion referent. From pornography (which seeks to incite desire
for the subject) it learns to ritualize desire, and to aestheticize the
sexual act in an impossible prostitutional act, a non-site ofsymbolic exchange
Chic-Clicks, 2002
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Sean & SengStoyaPop, SS 2013
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Sean & SengStoyaPop, SS 2013
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Richard Kern
Sasha Restrained by RichardVice2009
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Steven Klein
James Deen and Stoya2013
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Text?Roland Barthes: The theatre of fashion is always thematic: an
idea (or more precisely, a word) is varied through a series ofexamples or analogies
The Fashion System
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Text?Roland Barthes: The theatre of fashion is always thematic: an
idea (or more precisely, a word) is varied through a series ofexamples or analogies
The Fashion System
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The captionTo describe what is there.
To name the brand.To set a tone (a rare instance, not the usual function)
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Photographer?Style?David Sims
The lyrical, the symbolist
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Photographer?Style?David Sims
The lyrical, the symbolist
D id Si
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David Sims
Prada menswear A/W advertising campaign
2012
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David Sims
Prada menswear S/S advertising campaign
2013
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G sta e Morea
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Gustave MoreauThe Apparition
1876
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The insertFashion-as-and-montage
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Stylistic features:ColourDigital effects
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Sarah Moon
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Saul Leiter
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What kind of digital effect?
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g
David Sims vs. Nick Knight
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Nick KnightCampaign for#DIESELTRIBUTE2013
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Nick KnightGarage no.32012
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David Sims
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Acid Jazz
Arena Homme+ S/S 2013
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Model?
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Daniel Sannwald
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Collections
Arena Homme+ A/W 2012
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Gesture?Narrative?Text?A mystical return to grungeA hymn to a pop-cultural figurePosing the splendid with the sordid the special with the
everydayHymn as dream-logic
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Gesture?Narrative?Text?A mystical return to grungeA hymn to a pop-cultural figurePosing the splendid with the sordid the special with the
everydayHymnas suburban dream-logic
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Narrative?
A fashion story issue to keep the story open / ambiguous YET
Hymn as deliberate obscurity, but with simple premise: David Bowie a
movement away from depicting clothes to emphasis on moodA distancing narrative style anchored by easily understood referent
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Corrine DayEnglands Dreaming
The Face1993
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Corrine DayEnglands Dreaming
The Face1993
The everyday meets the dream
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fashion photography as play with deflation as well as elation(but still essentially constructed)
Juergen Teller
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Juergen Teller
Wolfgang Tillmans
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Wolfgang Tillmans
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Cecil Beaton
Vogue1945
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Cecil Beaton,British Vogue,
September 1941
Hymn
David Sims
Vacation
Daniel Riera
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Arena Homme +
A/W 2012
Fantastic Man
S/S 2012
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To conclude:A fashion story is a mixture of:clothes / modelmood-tone / defining word
stylemodel-castingreferencenarrativeexpectation / anticipation
identification
text-image-relation