939 3 fashion 1st lecture
TRANSCRIPT
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FASHION RESEARCH MARKETING
: a er a o pon
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Lessons: wednesda 10.00-13.00 a.m.
wo m screen ng
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Readings: Fashion Forecasting (available at
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Two assessment sessions:
uest ons case stu y
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2 Final ro ect: Make our own forecast
Students
Group written project for the Certificate
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Final ro ect is due November the 30th
:in class
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Do not show u late in class
o your omewor
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Students are re uested to remain in classuntil the end of all the presentations
Those leaving before will be penalized
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WEEK 1 Lesson 1
28/09/2011
10.00-13.00
Course resentation + basic information
Todays fashion scenario: a new paradigm
The social meaning of fashion: the Zeitgeist
Marketing vs fashion marketing
Lesson 2
05/10/2011
. - .
A short story of contemporary fashion, from the 80s to the 2000s
30 dresses that changed the world
ey p ayers n o ay s as on wor
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WEEK 3
12/10/2011
10.00-13.00
Film screening: Valentino, the last emperor
The diffusion of innovation
Anatomy of a trend
The trend forecasters toolbox
Lesson 4
19/10/2011 10.00-13.00
The direction of fashion change
Consumer segmentation & behaviour
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WEEK 5
26/10/2011
10.00-13.00
MID-TERM EXAMINATION
WEEK 6
Lesson 6
02/11/2011
10.00-13.00
Film screening: The September Issue
The role of media in setting trend
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WEEK 7
09/11/2011
10.00-13.00
Presenting a forecast
The scenario planning
The trend funnel
The trend cartogram
Lesson 8
16/11/2011 10.00-13.00
The fashion retail marketplace: formats and concepts
Emerging countries: from the BRIC to
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WEEK 9 Lesson 9
23/11/2011
10.00-13.00+
WEEK 10
30/11/2011
10.00-13.00
Forecasting as a career
Final project delivery
WEEK 11
REVISION WEEK
Final Exam
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If ou want to work in the fashionindustry, you must be able to forecasttrends and make successful predictions
Before oin on the market, ou have tofind out what will be HOT and what will
be NOT
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In terms of: Colours
Textiles
Brands.
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A WIDE PERSPECTIVE: fashion is somuch more than the catwalks
FOR EXPLORING THE WORLD OFAESTHETICSCONSUMER BEHAVIOR
CULTURE
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want to work in the fashion
in ustry:
advantage of the clients
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ANTICIPATING TRENDS
WITH CONSUMER PREFERENCES
FACILITATING THE TIMELY ARRIVAL
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a ng a orecas s one o e mos
IMPORTANT, but in the meantimeac v es, espec a y o ay
as ion usiness as a ways a aVOLATILE nature, but today its facinga more context
WHY ?
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The global ECONOMIC RECESSION
changes the wa eo le buy, choose, shop
, ,stores, which make quite impossible,
,trends
,Eastern Countries face economic boom
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East vs West North vs South
Women vs men
oo vs uncoo
????????
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Fashion used tocome from one
source at a time,
,
the runways, orthe entertainment
us ness. o ay
influences come
from hi h andlow, from
everywhere, from
Target Michael Kors
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meteorologists who
and behavior of
They position
geographic location
these events
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,
Skills about storm behavior erseverance
Little luck
They locate and investigate
t e p enomenon
They transmit their findingso o er me ereo og s s aneventually to the public
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Exactly the same way, forecasters andtren c asers locate the spawningground of trends and use their skill and
know e ge to identify emerging concepts,
all have one thing in common:
AN OPEN MIND
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They travel a lotI make quarterly trips to London, Paris and
, ,director at DuPont
I browse flea markets in London and
research color in the ScandinavianCountries, Katryin Novakovic, GM CottonIncor orated
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for designers, advertising agencies,, ,
retail chains and apparel brands -
variations on the word forecaster:
from manager of trend merchandising,,
backgrounds are varied
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The importance of thinking
want to buy in a future selling season:
the world, including economics, politics,,
of celebrities, the Red Carpets, the tv
ow t ese events, peop e an con itionswill affect fashion business?
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The importance of thinking
DONT BE POSH
ATTITUDE AT HOME!!!!
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allow you to get a correct perspective
You can end u b forecastin the
success of products that will remainon the sale racks, causin losses andeven business closures for producers,
manufacturers and retailers
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Donatella Versace
You cant live in an ivory toweran ma e as on, or anyt ng art st c.You have to live in the real world.
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I want to be informed, know everything, seeeveryt ng, rea a .You mix all that, then forget about it
.
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..
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for people who immerse themselves in, ,
useful sources of information, which
Forecastin is not ma ic racticed b atalented few with a gift of seeing the
future
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that can be understood,practiced and applied by
introduced to the tools
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Forecasters pluck emerging trends out
sensitive to
DIRECTIONAL SIGNALS
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THE SOCIAL MEANING OF FASHION
Fashion is what you adopt when you dont know who you are
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,attachment or treatment that
e nes our appearance A Social and ersonal behavior A cultural universe
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A dress sends messages
These messages allow others to form an
idea about you
To hold certain expectations that can
i i hi i h h
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We dress in order to:
co the cultural ideal/deliberatel oagainst it
h -
We increase our sense of belonging to the
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We usually dress to cloak ourselves in the
situation
en ress s appropr a e or a s ua on,individuals tend to feel more confident andcompe en . e reverse s a so rue
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ersona ity Roles
Status
*For a dress to be a language, there must be
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few seconds, include judgments andassessments of the individual includin
personality, social roles and status
Stereotypes: we assume that a group of
traits automatically go along with oneattr ute
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Does this guy looklike someone who
would establishtrends in highfashion?
Do we expect adifferent clothinbehavior?
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as on: w e y popu arexpression in apparel,omes, ar , mus c
How does fashion differfrom style? Style = an items
characteristics: crew orv neck sweater; it may bein or out of fashion.
D-Squared
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times in which it is created
and worn
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ZEITGEISTis A German word for THE
individuals in large numbers choose among
connect with the spirit of the times
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This collective selection forms a precious
industry and the consumer
BUT THERES A BIG PROBLEM.
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The problem, in terms of forecasting, is
that this conce t offers little advancewarning
Only fast fashion firms those set up,
of months - are able to capitalize on
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To work in the haute couture fashionbusiness ou need to understand what
will be trendy
TWO YEARS IN ADVANCE
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FASHION FORECASTING
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. Study market conditions
u y ow e
behaviour is influenced by society,,
Research sales statitics to establish salesren s
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2. WATCH
Evaluate o ular desi ner collections to
find fashions (colors, silhouettes,fabrications len hts... that su estsnew directions or trends
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Observe what celebrities are wearing
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Take notes when you see common people
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wear ng some ng eren or n eres ng
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3. LEARN
Bu and collect fashion ma azines, catalo s anddesign brochures from around the world
Surf the web constantly
Keep up with current events: art, design, food,anything that could be a source of inspiration
Travel, as much as you can
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FASHION MARKETING
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Once youve collected all the informations
ou need on the market and our otentialcustomer, you have to plan how topromote the product you want to launch
You must coordinate all elements so thatthe prospective consumer is not being sent
mixed messa es that can cause confusion.
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the same message?
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BEFORE
The 4 Ps of marketing: (Philip Kotler,
1 Product: what we are selling
Placement/place: where are we selling thepro uc
Promotion: pr, advertising, popcommunication
But also
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The 5 Ps of marketing
Price: positioning Placement place: where are we selling the
product
Promotion: pr, advertising, popcommunication Personal Selling: all the pre and post
sale activities we use to su ort thecustomer
TODAY
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A new economic an mar eting scenario Do not forget or cancel what we set
before. Some concepts/ideas are basic:
Product: it must have a ood ualit bedifferent, satisfy a precise need
understandable
available for your actual and potential
Promotion: integrated forms ofcommun ca on are v a
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The NEW 4 Ps of marketin : (PhiliKotler, 2003)
PEOPLE
PLANS PROJECTS
PEOPLE
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The new marketinglooks at the targetby considering
every person inrelation tosomeone else
Virtuall or reall
individual, its
NIKE
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Red: project developed
support the race
You buy a pair of redaces an you ma e adonation
You can take a picture,
,on the wall, close to
You show participation
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Its where ideas, emotions, moments take
You live an interactive, aesthetic,mu sensory exper ence
You make a full immersion in the brand
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PLANS
o more
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o morelifestyles
Focus on
thinkstyles Try tounderstand
peoplesdeeconcernings,
valuesthoughts
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PROJECTS
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Set a meaningful relation with the customer :ask his/her opinion, design a CUSTOMIZEDpro uc
Involve him/her in the project
Bui wit im a consuming project
www.threadless.com
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Design your own t-s r
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Pro ose it to thecommunity
700 newproposa s wee
4/6 new models/week
Price: 9 to 18$
2010 turnover: 50 mln$
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You have to read the bibles of fashion
But also take a look at which is the most
renowned magazine in the country you are
wor ng w
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FILMS & TV SERIES
A reat source of ins iration Trend setters: styles, costumes,
Social phenomenon
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Sex & The City
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e y ney or va a ermo
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ersey ore
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ersey ore
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WEBSITES
Just surf the Netbut dont miss
www.wgsn.com
www.fashiontrendsetter.com
www.fashioninformation.com
www.theblondesalad.com. .
http://www.thestylerookie.com/
. .
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Trend setters
y es, cos umes, oca ons
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The ZEITGEIST FRAMEWORK
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goo orecaster s ou mon tor somefactors, because there are some precise
the Spirit of the times
Those factors, on a second level, guide and
FASHION
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eywor :
as ion is somet ing popular in t e present,
or a set of trends that have beenacce e y a w e au ence
.
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On January the 21st, 2008, 450 bln $were gone on the Stock Exchange
The United States and consequently therest of the world faced a eavy state o
recession: Su -prime inancing crisis Unemployment rate Financial scandals Slowness of consum tion
Bernard Madoff is a formerAmerican stock broker,investment adviser, non-executivechairman of the NASDAQ stock
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chairman of the NASDAQ stockmar e .
, ,March 2009 he pleaded guilty to11 federal crimes.
The amount missing from clientaccoun s, nc u ng a r ca egains, was almost $65 bln.
On June 29, 2009, he wassentenced to 150 ears inprison, the maximum allowed.
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Unresolved conflicts
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Unresolved conflicts
Emer in (or re-emer in )nationalism
Lack of freedom
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.
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Environmental issues
uman ar an ssues Freedom and democracy Equality of men and women
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.
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,leadership positions ose w o are v s e o e
mainstream population Basicly, the trend setters
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LEADERS/ARTISTS/THINKERS/HEROES
LEADERS: WAEL GHONIM Over the past few
Spokesman for a revolutionyears, Wae , 30,
began workingoutside the box
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to make his peersunderstand thatonl theirunstoppablepeople power
change. He quickly
grasped that,
notably Facebook,were emerging as
t e most power ucommunicationtools to mobilizeand develop ideas.
ARTISTS: LADY GAGA
She turns pop music into performance art
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THINKERS: JULIAN ASSANGE
Secrets will never be safe again
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For connecting more than half a billion people and,
new system of exchanging information and for changing
how we live our lives
New categories: sports players
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New categories: sports players (II)
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.but not only: THE WAGS
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New categories: politiciansand First Ladies
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New categories: The Royals.
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and their relatives
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New categories: deejays
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400.000 euros for a private set, 17 millions of singles sold, 21millions fans on Facebook
New categories: reality show tv stars
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.
When the desire for DIFFERENTIATION is the, ,
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changes are REVOLUTIONARY
When SOCIAL CONFORMITY and IMITATION isthe dominant attitude, FASHION INNOVATION
, t e c anges are
Write down one na e or each cate or and
tell me WHO according to you is the BEST
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tell me WHO, according to you, is the BESTINTERPRETER of the ZEITGEIST (The Spirit
of the times) in:
Haute couture ashion
Art Books
On Wednesday, be ready to motivate youranswers in front of the class