939 fashion 3rd lecture
TRANSCRIPT
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TREND:ADEFINITION
A trend is a TRANSITORY DECREASE OVER TIME
Theyare
usually
classified
by
duration
and
penetration,
visualisedascurveswithtimeonthebottomaxisand
consumeradoptionratesontheverticalaxis
Inthiswayitseasytoshowthedifferencebetween
TheSHORTESTTRENDSor FADS
The
LONGEST
TRENDS
or CLASSICS
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Trendsarenotexplicit,astheystillhavetobeidentified
Theyappearacross
different
cultures,
targets,
social
networks,
,
Peoplewhoworkwithtrendsdealwiththetaskofsensingthe
tren ,
captur ng
w at
rea y
matters an
nsert ng
t
w t n
aninterpretativestructure thatwillthenbeappliedtothe
Whatmatters/in
an
interpretative
structure/applied
tostrategicmarketing
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EVOLUTIONOFATREND
Therearethreesta esintheevolutionofatrend
1.FRINGEs agew enan nnova onar sesan e ren es
consumersbegintoparticipate
2.TRENDY
Astage
when
awareness
of
the
trends
grows
because
earlyadoptersjointheinnovatorstoincreasethevisibility
retailerstesttheconcept
3.MAINSTREAMAstagewhenmoreconservativeconsumersjoinin,
visibilitycontinuestoincrease,andcorporationand
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SOMEEXAMPLES
Surfin skateboardin snowboardin allstartedatthefrin eof
thesportsworldamongasmallgroupofenthusiasts.Eachgroup
evolvedan
identifying
style
Whenmorepeoplebecameawareofthesports,thestylesbecame
trendy.Fashionjournalistsandforecastersbegantoidentifythe
styleas
fashion
forward
and
some
large
brands
began
to
test
the
looksinsmallcollections
Someinterestingvariations:urbaninfluenceslikehiphopbecame
directionalfor
the
three.
Graphic
tshirts
and
hoodies
were
easily
assimilatedintomainstreamfashion,butmoreextremestyleslike
pipejeansremainednicheproducts.
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FADS FASHIONS&CLASSICS
FADS havebeendefinedindifferentwa s:
as
involving
fewer
people
or
shorter
duration,
and
more
personal
ano er as onc anges
asoutsidehistoricalcontinuity,eachspringingupindependently,
withno
successor
and
no
forerunner
, ,
andhavinglittlevalueafterthenewnesswearsoff
FASHIONS arethemselvesofshortdurationwhencomparedtolong
termsocialchanges.Fadsarefashionsofevenshorterduration
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CLASSIC:itsast lethatchan esminimall overtime
It
remains
within
the
acceptable
range in
terms
of
a r u eso ere an expen ure n ermso mean
money
Classics
represents
midpoint
compromises
that
deliver
atleastthecoreattributesdesiderabletotheconsumer
Classicsappealtoaspecialkindofpersonalityseeking
toavoid
extremes
in
styling
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HOWDOTRENDSMOVE?
Forecastersseekin tovisualize thewa trendsmovethrou h
culturehaveseveralalternatives:
n n orma oncasca e, rom as on ea ers o o owers
Attachmentofacatchylabel(importanttoatrendspopularity)a
coattaileffect
during
which
the
trend
builds
among
the
most
fashion
forward,andflowwhereitmovesintothemainstream
Tricklingdownfromtheelite,upfromthestreetandacross
consumersegments
Contagionwherethetrendsmovesfrompersontopersonlikethe
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CONTAGION
Thetransmissionoftrendshasbeenlikenedtothes readofavirus
Manufacturersshould
aim
for
sticky
looks
with
flulike
staying
power, ecauseconsumers on wan oo s a qu c y
disappear
(MalcolmGladwell,TheNewYorker)
Principlesforturningordinaryideasintothosewithstickiness
unexpectedness
concreteness
credibility
emotionallyinvolving
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Trendsmustbevisibleto ossibleado tersinordertos read:
BUZZ:
excitement
about
something
new.
Is
created
when
trends
pass roug me ane wor s,mov ng romone orma oano er:
fromnewsmagazinestotalkshows,fromthemorningshowstolate
night
Receivinginformationsonatrendinthiswaygivestheconsumera
VIRAL
MARKETING:
builds
on
the
power
of
word
of
mouth
in
personalnetworksandbuzzinmedianetworks.Theideaistospread
amessagetoawidepopulationbybeginningwithafewkeycarriers
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Viralmarketin ivesconsumersthefeelin thatthe are
discoveringproductsthroughpersonalormedianetworks
rac onerso v ra mar e ng may:
Fieldstreetteamsofyoungpeoplewhovisitclubs,sportingevents,
concertsand
other
hot
spots
in
urban
markets
and
distribute
stickers,posters
Createaneventsuchasununfoldingdramaactedoutonadjacent
billboardsplaced
in
aprim
urban
location
Giveawaynextseasonsdesignstoeditors,stylists,artists,
, , ,
beseen
and
photographed
wearing
the
designs
as
away
to
build
buzz
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TRENDANALYSISANDSYNTHESIS
Peo leonalllikelihood areamemberofast letribebecauseof
wheretheylive,howtheymakealiving,orhowtheychoosetospend
theirleisure
time
Groupsevolveawayofdressingthatsignalsthegroupsidentityand
aestheticcode
Becausethereexistsanalmostinfiniteuniverseofstylevariations,the
infinite
Yetpeoplesstylescanbeclassifiedintogeneralcategories
CONSUMERSEGMENTATION
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FORECASTERTOOLBOX:5.
Analysisandsynthesisarethetwofacesofforecasting:
ANALYSIS:aphenomenonisdissectedtoachieveamorecomplete
understandingof
its
components
SYNTHESIS:acreativereintegrationoftheparts
n as ont atmeans:
Anaccurate
reading
of
the
trend
in
all
its
subtle
aspects
Matchingthetrendwiththeconsumersegmentmostlikelytoadoptit
initially
Matchingthetrendwiththeproductcategory,pricepointandretail
concept mostlikely
to
complement
it
Andthen:theforecasterhypothesizesaboutwhatitwilltaketoenergize
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CONSUMERSEGMENTATION
Once,notlongago,atrendmovedfromafewfashionforwardconsumers
, .
evenexistanymore?
majorityofconsumers
o,nowmoret anever, orecastersan ot er as on n ustrypro ess ona s
mustpay
careful
attention
to
the
definitions
of
market
niches
and
target
audience
Atargetaudiencecanbedefinedasoneormoreconsumersegments,each
withcertain
demographic
characteristics
such
as
age,
gender,
ethnicity
and
income
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DEMOGRAPHICS
Segmentationstrategiesbasedondemographics consumercharacteristics
, ,
effective,becauseconsumerattitudesandbehaviourarenotdriven
primarilyby
demographics
Sometimes aproductcrossesboundariesbyappealingtoconsumersin
widedemographiccategories(teenagers),buttoonlyasmallnumberof
peop eovera t e mo s
Consumerscanbehaveinunexpectedways:veryaffluentconsumers
combineluxurybrandedgoodsfromspecialtystoresandbasicsfrom
discountretailers
Someoftodaysconsumersstillridethetrendwavesoffashionbutothers
aredecidedlyantifashion
This
approach
seems
too
simplistic
for
todays
marketplace
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PSYCOGRAPHICS
Segmentationstrategiesbasedonpsychographics consumerpsychology
,
attitudes,preferencesandbehaviors
consumersculture ashavingmoreimpactthandemographics
econsumer scu turecanoverru e emograp cc ass cat ons: g
incomehouseholds
consider
brand
quality
to
be
more
important
than
do
consumersatlowerincomelevels
Healthfitnessandnutritionconsciousconsumerscomprisearelatively
smallbut
influential
segment
of
consumers
in
all
demographic
categories
Althoughtheymaybeofdifferentagesandcomefromvariousincome
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GEODEMOGRAPHICS
Segmentationstrategiesbasedongeodemographics linkgeographyand
Censusdata
on
age,
income,
ethnicity
and
other
categories
are
smoothed
, ,
Theresultingclustersareuseful forpinpointinglocationsfornewstores
orma s, totargetma ngso cata ogsan torevea ns g tsa out
consumerpreferences
Geodemographicsisusefultoforecastersinpinpointingthemarkets
wherehottrendsbeginandinmappingtheirpotentialdiffusion.Itallowsto
locatediverse
neighbourhoods
where
consumption
patterns
today
may
anticipatethosethatwilldevelopinotherlocalesasthefutureunfolds.
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GENERATIONALCOHORTS
TheysharethesameAGELOCATIONinhistoryandaCOLLECTIVEMINDSET
Groupmembershipis
Involuntary
Finite
rom rt on,a mem ersencountert esameevents,moo san tren s
atsimilar
ages,
giving
each
cohort
adistinct
biography
and
apeer
personality
Individualsinthecohortmayagreewiththevaluesandviewpointsoftheir
generation,or
spend
alifetime
battling
against
it
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1.THEGRAYGENERATION
Thosebornbetween1901and1924:theylivedthroughtheGreat
, .
This
generation
has
declined
to
5
millions
Consumptionismostlylimitedtodailymaintenanceandhealthcare
Thoseborn
between
1925
and
1945:
they
are
also
called
the
silent
generation,althoughtheyarebeginningtotalk
Thisgenerationcountsfor45millions
Theyareusuallyneglectedbydesigners,retailers,advertisingandmedia
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Infactthe6075yearoldgroup isthesecondfastest
growingage
segment:
in
2010
one
third
of
the
population isover50
yearsyounger,
but
has
been
marketed,
so
far,
as
if
they
wereolder
Maturepeoplehavemoneytospend andenjoynew
muchasanyone
ey ressup moreo en anyoungerpeop e
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Theyprefertoshopforapparelandaccessoriesby
catalogue,viatheInternetoratdepartmentstores
,
Theyarediffident towardsproductscomingfrom
a roa
Theywantclothesthatgivethem physical,psychological
andsocialcomfort
conservativevalue function comfort andquality
orientedconsumer
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.
TheagegroupcausedbytheincreaseinthebirthrateafterWWIIis
still
the
largest
generation
and
the
primary
spending
group
in
the
Theyshopawidevarietyofretailvenuesfromluxuryspecialty
.
onclothing
per
capita
than
any
other
age
group
sensibility
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Theyhavedistinctandfirmideas aboutwhattheywant
, ,
Theywant
the
same
fashion
as
young
people with
appropriate
g
Theywerethefirsttvgeneration
Theycount
for
75
million
boomers
oneeveryeightseconds
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.
AlsocalledtheBabyBusters,theyarebornbetween1965and1979
Theyareintheir30sandearly40s
Theyare
career
oriented,
family
oriented or
both,
but
they
were
thefirsttoexperiencetheriskofbeingchildrenofdivorce
Theirspendingpatternsreflecttheseinterests,withmorespending
onhousing,homegoods,transportation,education
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Theyarethefirstcomputergeneration
,
aboutmediamanipulation
boomers)
targetinthefragmentationoftheInternet
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.
Thisisfashionmarketingsmostsoughtafterconsumergroup:they
are
also
called
the
baby
boomlet,
millennium
generation
or
the
Net
Theirbirthratebeganin1980andgoesuntil1995
Theyare
aracially
diverse
group,
with
aglobal
sports,
computer
andentertainmentorientationthataffectstheirbuyingdecision
Ads,tvshows,movies,websitesandmagazinesarecreated
specificallyforthismarket
THISISTHEGENERATIONTHATISRETHINKINGEVERYTHINGAND
TAKINGTHEFASHIONINDUSTRYWITHTHEM
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Theyare
fashion
hungry and
have
apassion
for
buying
clothes,
but
usuallycannotaffordtospendasmuchasbabyboomers
Theytendtoconcentratemoreoncareer thanfamily
ey en opre er c y c an sma ou ques,
butalsothebig,internationalflagshipstores
eyrepresen emos s gn can po ar sa ono o ay s
demography:on
one
side
we
have
the
baby
boomers,
on
the
other
thebabyboomlet
Attentivetocyberspace,fickleintheirtastesandexpectingthe
best,
this
group
favors
brands
and
retailers
with
strong
ecological
orhumanitarianrecords
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:
.
Demographersarentpreciseinplacingdividinglinesbetween
generations,
but
GEN
Y
probably
ended
in
2000
and
a
new
, ,
Identifyinggenerationsinothercultureshelpsforecastersandother
opportunities
spendingpowerwillbeinthehandsoftheonlychildgeneration:
profiled
as
urban,
educated,
ranging
from
late
teens
to
early
t irties,wit rising isposa eincomes
TheChinesewhoarepartofthisgenerationgrewupduringboom
times,embracefashionandenjoyspendingmoneyonthemselves
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LIFESTYLESEGMENTS
Thepsychographicapproachwasbornintheearly1970s:societywasbeing
familiesandcareers,andbywomenwhobeganchoosingcareersover
traditional
homemaker
roles
Lifestyleresearchwasanattempttounderstandthechangingsocialorder,
byanalysing
INTERESTS
OPINIONS
Howdoconsumersspendtheirtime?Whatinterestsareimportanttothem?
Howdo
they
view
themselves?
What
opinions
do
they
hold
about
the
world
aroundthem?
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Migrationphenomenon:intheUnitedStatesyouhavemorethan
700.000
legal
immigrants
per
year
Black,Hispanic,AsianandNativeAmericanwillgrowasfastasthe
whitemajority
Peopleof
different
cultural
backgrounds
look
for
different
things
in
afashionpurchase
Theyhavevariousculturalandreligiousperceptionsand
partialitiesregardingstyling,colour,pattern,fabrics,fit&value
Retailers,manufacturersandtrendsetterswillhavetocatertothese
variousmarketsegments
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.
Morethan75%ofthefemalepopulationaged20to60are
employed.
More
than
22
million
women
live
alone
or
head
single
Theymakemorepurchasingdecisions
Dividingtheir
days
between
family
and
career,
TIME becomes
acriticalissue
Theytendtoshoplessandfavorconvenient,onestopshopping
,
,
the80s
,
and
home
dcor
shows
on
tv
and
are
interested
equally
in
high
end
fashionandinteriordesign
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Thereisanincreasingnumberofpeoplewearinglargersizes:asthe
population
ages,
people
are
getting
heavier
(approx
68%
of
Fashiondesignersarecreatingdedicatedcollections,whotrytobe
,
Asaresult,retailstoresaredevotingmoresquarefootagetolarge
,
windowsmannequin,fromsize32to38(from40to44inEU)
ver s ng
s
e ca ngmore
a en on
o
s
arge
Celebritiesarenotafraidtoshowthemselveseveniftheyarecurvy
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Manypeopletrytoinsulatethemselvesfromthefearsofterrorism,
war
and
crime
by
staying
home
as
much
as
possible
TheyshoplessorshopbycatalogorontheInternet
,
waysof
consumption
,
andthefamily
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Babyboomerwomenwho
haventlosttheirhippie
,womantowomanbrand
a eals
Showinterestinproductsthat
relatetomindbodyspirit
tolife
They
drive
quirky
automobiles
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Theyarestayathomedadswhoseekbalanceinworkandlife
Spendlotsoftimeonline
Share
in
their
kidsmusical
tastes
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Coupleswholookforstatusandbraggingrightswithinthegreen
Shopfororganicfoodsandearthfriendlyproducts
ListentoNationalPublicRadio
Drivehybridcars
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Similarityinpatternsofconsumerbehaviourcanbetracedtothe
Consumptionprioritiesalterdependingonthestageoflifeand
the
accompanying
tasks
and
challenges
e es agesapproac represen consump ono eren
productsandthepursuitofdifferentkindsofexperience:
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Childrenbetween6and11years oldshowanever
increasingdemand forthelatestfashionbrands,trainers,
,
Theconsumptionofclothingandthewearingof
as on are mportantmar ers o ent tyasc ren
growolder
Influencesfrompopularculture,especiallypopstars
andfootballers,functionasanimportantpointofreference
forchildren
Awarenessofwhatiscoolandwhat
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Accessto
the
latest
fashions
which
carriedhighstatuslabelsandlogos
cou es gn cant nrespecto
childrensexperienceofsocial
Inclusionor
exclusion
Evidenceofgrowth inthe
Childrenswearmarkethasbeen
steady ratherthanexceptionalin
recentyears
Growthismoreevidentatthetop,
designerlabelend,thoughthis
Marketoverall,andatthevalueend
ofthemarket
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a a rom ec ren ave emons ra e
theirclear
sense
of
suitability
and
acceptability
Oftenexpressedintermsofnot wishingtolooksilly,
awfuloroutofplace,childrenconstructsensesof
normalityand
abnormality
which
can
govern
dress
codesaswellasoverallpresentationofself/identity
In articularchildrenex ressedconcernaboutwhattheir
friends
would
think of
the
clothes
they
chose
or
wererequiredtowear
Forsomethisemphasisedtheneedtofitin,forfearofbeingwrongly
judgedbytheirpeers
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Jessica(ten
years
old):
Peopleseewhatyoulooklike
before
they
realise
what
you
are
like.Sotheyjudgeyou
beforetheyreallyfindoutyourpersonality.
yourpersonality
in
what
you
are
wearing
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Theadultification
of
childrens
clothing
Re erstot eways nw c c ren sc ot ng was
perceivedbothbyparentsandtheindustrytoincreasingly
replicateadults
clothing in
some
areas
Particularanxietycentredonthelinkageofthiswiththe
sexualisationof irlsclothin toincludeoverl adultst les,
particularlythosewhichexposealotofflesh
concerninggoodandbadtaste butnosetpoliciesor
regulationexistedaboveandbeyondthatwhichmaybe
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Womenarethemostpowerfultarget forfashion:they
accept andtheydefinenewtrends
Todaythepredominantstyle is
Casual
Hy r
Mixing hautecouture
with
fast
fashion
Expressingfemininity,butneverinaprovocativeway
Influencescomefromtvshows andgroupofpeers,
virtualor
real,
magazines,
blogthat
function
as
an
importantpointofreferenceandinspiration
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pare me oo s cu o e ne ecause epen sonpersona
inclinations.Office is
the
main
ground
to
express
your
own
style
(GraziaSurvey,2009)
57% ofwomengoforacasual,detailedlook
20% choosedenim
9womenon10donotrenouncetohighheels
Nothin isreall casual:womenadmittosta hoursinfrontofthe
mirror(63%)andasignificant23%admitstoseeofficecorridorsasa
catwalk
Alow2%prefersbeingcomfortable,andchoosetrainersand
tracksuit
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Being
la
mode
means
develop
your
own
style,
studying
seasonstrends(65%)
Thebestdressistheonethatmakesyoufeelsecureand
Comfortableduring
an
interview
(49%) or
anight
out
with
your
love(56%)
Themusthave ofever closetare:
Awhiteblouse(26%)
Jeans(45%)
,
Underwear isbasicandmustmatchwiththerest(43%)
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Menfashionisgoingtroughatoughtime.Thelatestedition
OfPittiUomo(jan2010)markeda9%insales
Tworeasons
first,menareusedto dressinaclassicalway
att eo ce, npart cu ar ,sot ey onot uyas requent y
aswomen.
They
buy
asuit
and
they
use
it
for
years
theresaculturalattitudetowardsmenbeinginterestedinfashion.
Itsnotamachobehaviour
Experimentationis
not
for
everyone
Inspirationcomesmostlyfromwivesandgirlfriends,inthe
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en ono rea y e os op orc o es: mus eaqu c ,
profitableexperience,
with
someone
Instead,theyarereadytospendhoursinspecialtyshops, iftheyare
relatedtotheirpassions
Somethingischanging,butveryslowly.