Learn how to age youngmen and women with

step-by-step instructions using Mehron makeup.

Female: Elderly

Step 1: Clean & dry face. Thehair should be secured awayfrom face. Choose an appropri-ate foundation base as close tothe skin tone as possible or usecolors to change the tempera-ment of the character. Warm-

color bases sug-gest health. Coolbases such asblue, green orgrey suggest an unhealthy character.

Step 2: Apply shadows over thefoundation. Shadow colors areused over foundation and not onbare skin. These colors are darkerthan the base skin tone. In small-er theatres, the shadow shouldbe a few shades darker than thefoundation. In larger theatres,darker shadows should be usedto create more contrast. Shadowcolors are used to hollow outareas and create the appear-ance of wrinkles in the skin. In thisphoto, shadows have been used

to hollow the eye sockets, the sidesof the nose, the cheekbones, thetemples and the neck area. Largerwrinkles under the eye and smilelines are also evident. Note that theshadows have a “hard edge” whichis either slightly unblended or totallyunblended, and a “soft edge”

which is completely blended into the foundation. The idea is to create a shadow transition from dark tone to skin tone.Copy the blending direction as shown.

Step 3: Apply highlights with colors that are lighter than thefoundation. The highlightedareas should appear fuller and“pop” away from the base tone.First, the bone structure shouldbe highlighted. Next, the cheeks,jowls and double chin should behighlighted. To create an agedeffect, we paint the illusion oflight coming from above, reflect-ing off the areas of the face thatproject out. These highlights arecasting the shadows which wehave painted in. For realism, thehighlights must also have a hardand soft edge. The hard edge ofthe highlight should be against thehard edge of the shadow. Theyshould blend away from eachother creating soft edges on each.

Step 4: Apply wrinkles to theshaded and highlighted makeup. Think of the wrinkles as thin highlights and shadows.Each wrinkle has a hard and softedge. Wrinkles are added horizontally on the forehead, tothe area around the eyes, ontothe cheekbone, to the lips, andhorizontally on the neck crossingthe vertical shadows. On theneck, blend the wrinkle upwardskeeping the hard edge on thebottom. With all wrinkles, use thehighlighting technique, keepingthe hard edge of the highlightsagainst the hard edge of theshadows, blending the highlightdownward. Every highlight, shad-ow and wrinkle must be blendedusing this “hard edge/soft edge”technique. For older ages, makethe wrinkles longer.

Step 5: Apply translucent discolorations. Common discolorations are age spots (created with a reddish-brownfreckle color), and veins (createdwith a blue liner mixed into yourfoundation). Additionally, thehighlights can be texturized byusing a black stipple sponge withblush tone or bronze color. Agespots should be random andfaint. Veining is best on the neck and temple area. All discolorations should be translu-cent and appear to be seenthrough the skin. Apply Colorset

Powder with a powder puff to set the makeup. Excess powder should be lightly brushed off with a powder brush.

Step 6: Apply Hair White and/orHair Silver to grey the hair. DarkerHair can be greyed with HairWhite and may require severalcoats to become white. The hair will absorb the color makingit light grey. Each additionallayer will become more white.Light-colored hair, such as blond,red and light brown can begreyed with silver and a layer of white. The color should beapplied after the hair is styledand dry. Lightly brush or spongeonto the surface of the hair starting at the root. Allow each

layer to dry before applying additionalcoats. Applying to much will cause the hair to clump together and create an unrealistic appearance.

Apply lip coloring if desired. A finishedred application suggests a neatlystyled older woman. The inset photouses the same makeup with no lipcolor. To create a more ragged look,

an unkempt hairstyle is used. Nicotine and Black Tooth FXcreate stained and chipped teeth. Caution: Tooth FX maystain veneers, consult a dentist before using.

Step 1: Clean & dry face. Applya foundation. A shade shouldbe chosen to lightly tan or dark-en the skin tone.

Step 2: Apply stylized makeupshadows to accent the temples,cheekbones, the sides of thenose, upper lip, below the lowerlip, the chin, and the jaw line. All of these shadows are blend-ed either down or away fromthe center of the face.Highlights are applied againstthe hard edge of the shadowsand blended away from theshadow. For directions onblending highlights and shad-ows, see previous Steps 2 & 3 onthe Female model. Next, lightlyline the eyes on both the upperand lower lids with a dark brownpencil. The eyebrows are lightlyfilled in with a liner pencil.

Male: Middle Aged

Step 3: Shadows are applied tocreate a middle-aged effect.As with the old age makeup,the shadows are painted withthe “hard edge/soft edge”technique explained in previousSteps 2 & 3 of the Femalemodel. Note the placement ofthe shadows and minimal wrinkles used to create a middle-aged effect. Chooseonly the areas of the faceneeded to create the appropriate age. Always apply eye shadows on theupper eyelid and below theeye, the smile lines, and theforehead furrows. ApplyColorset Powder with a powderpuff to set the makeup. Excesspowder should be lightlybrushed off with a powderbrush.

Step 4: Highlights and HairWhite are added. As with theFemale makeup application,be sure to place highlightsagainst the hard edge of theshadow. Place less emphasis on the bone structure for middle-aged makeup.Highlights are used to createthe full areas that cast theshadows. Refer to the photo for blending directions. Use anamount of Hair White appropri-ate for the age of the charac-ter. For early middle age youmay choose to grey the tem-ples or salt and pepper thehead and facial hair. To apply,refer to the previous FemaleStep 6 directions.

Step 6: A dramaticallydifferent look can becreated using thesame age makeupbut adding longwhitened hair, a beardand a mustache. Hair styles can also be usedto create the look ofother historical periods.

Step 5: Wigs or styled hair can dramatically change the look.In these photos, a salt-and-pepper grey wig is used to createa conservative middle-age look.

AgingTechniques

Artist: Joe Rossi has designed makeup for feature films, network tel-evision, commercials and for theatre, opera and ballet. He hastaught master classes and workshops for over 20 years at many insti-tutions including Boston University, Brown University, Emerson Collegeand Salve Regina University. Film credits include Osmosis Jones,State and Main, Thirteen Days, Outside Providence and Stuck onYou. Television credits include Unsolved Mysteries, Saturday NightLive and makeup for three U.S. Presidents.

Models: Carolyn Glick, Ann Reddick, Jallah Leonard and Francesco Nuzzi

Mehron, Inc. Chestnut Ridge, NY 10977Mehron Ltd. London EC1M 4BH

www.mehron.com

Makeup, hair & wigs by Joe Rossi