Travel Companion

InsIders’ guIde To MadrId

Madrid is an eccentric and amazing city with just so much to experience. To help you make the most out of

your visit, we have compiled a collection the best personal recommendations from outThere

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Hola

uwern Jong, editor in Chief, outThere

The Madrid of my youth had always been through the lens of prolific Spanish movie director, Pedro Almodóvar. I first awed at the ocean of buildings that made up the city at the end of What Have I Done to Deserve This? Other cult classics like Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown, High Heels and Live Flesh had me yearning to visit what he portrayed as a creative, gritty, queer and colourful city full of people that looked and spoke like Antonio Banderas and Penélope Cruz.

Madrid turned out to be everything I had imagined it to be and more, so much so that I have returned yearly since my first visit. It’s a place where a passionate energy flows through the streets from the beating heart of its historic core. It’s also an utterly romantic city, from its Habsburg-era palaces, to the baroque and the belle époque. It’s a city that is very much about the outdoors – it values open spaces, gardens, terraces and squares. It’s an urbanity with a rich, tempestuous social history, one that is keen to take the lessons from its past to inform the future.

Old and new Madrid sit strikingly in contrast. Ancient, cobbled streets meet modern avenues and shimmering contemporary architecture. Locals may dine on suckling pig in the world’s oldest restaurant for lunch, but graze on tuna tataki at a pop-up food truck market for dinner. One minute you’re taking in Velázquez’s seventeenth-century masterpiece at the Prado Museum and the next, checking out a photo of a gay, skinhead three-way by Bruce LaBruce at a gallery owned by the city’s most famous trans* person, Topacio Fresh. Madrileños work hard, but they play hard too – an early night ends at around 4am. Because of these juxtapositions, Madrid brims with personality and a sense of humour that is endlessly charming. It doesn’t take itself too seriously either, after all, its pervasive mascot is a bear sniffing a strawberry tree.

But if there is to be one distinguishing factor that makes Madrid so special, it is its people. They come from far and wide and are credited for their open-minded, welcoming and friendly approach. Madrileños lack the snobbery you may get from residents of other European capitals. Instead they’re more likely to strike up a conversation, take you by the hand and lead you on a whimsical journey through the city. It happened to us in fact, our men of distinction Osama Chami and Enrique Gimeno were cases in point. We say the same for OutThere contributors Txema Mirón and Agustín Cascales, whose network of the great and the good of gay Madrid forms our intriguing voices section and provides much of the inside track for our city guide. We hope that we will inspire you to visit and experience it for yourselves, particularly at a time where equality and inclusion is so high on their agenda. Madrid is OutThere. Are you?

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MalasañaThis hipster barrio is the

birthplace of the post-Franco ‘La Movida’ movement of free speech, art and love. It’s a

buzzing part of the city and is home to Cazador, the 44Store

and Salón44, among others.

salamancaUpscale Madrid, where flash cars and lavish apartments intermix with high-end boutiques and Michelin-starred restaurants. A hidden gem here is cafe-cum-newsstand Magasand, our favourite spot for a sandwich while posh-people watching.

La latinaThe oldest part of the city, where

quaint architecture meets little streets and stone stairwells.

You’ll find Madrid’s best tapas here – the great food matched with glasses of ice cold cañas

and fabulous local wines. Every Sunday, the famous El Rastro

flea market takes over.

PalacioMadrid’s Royal Palace and stunning grounds are located here. A walk around will also showcase Madrid’s glorious past – cathedral, opera house and shops (the Chocolateria San Gines mustn’t be missed) included. A short walk away is the Rosaleda del Parque del Oeste where you’ll find the Temple of Debod.

solAll roads lead to and from this

modern, commercial centre, also known as kilometer zero.

You’re bound to pass through it and find the infamous statue of

a bear leaning up upon a strawberry tree.

ChuecaThe epicentre of queer life. You’ll definitely end up here at some point and there are plenty of amazing hotels, bars, clubs, shops and ‘talent’ to keep you fully occupied.

retiroThis sprawling park is a haven from the city’s fast pace. The beautifully landscaped garden features a lake and a stunning crystal palace. You’ll also find the elegant Ritz Madrid and the golden triangle of art museums here.

Barrio de las letrasMadrid’s literary and cultural quarter, named in honour of Spain’s most noted writers who lived here. Combined with Huertas, it forms a touristy, mainstream entertainment, dining and drinking district.

LavapiésIt competes with Malasaña to

be Madrid’s hippest barrio, but is notably edgier and more

bohemian. Home to the city’s immigrant population, it offers a melting pot of sights, smells

and sounds.

orientation

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CaixaForum MadridPaseo del Prado, 36Not many visitors know about this place, but it is a great cultural centre for contemporary art showcasing some fascinating work. (TF)

CazadorCalle Pozas, 7The centre of Madrid’s queer universe in the heart of Malasaña owned by two dear friends. (BP)

Cuartel del Conde-duqueCalle Conde Duque, 9A pink building that’s a national treasure, now a municipal cultural centre. The exhibits can be hit or miss, but the architecture is stunning. (TM)

Museum CerralboCalle Ventura Rodríguez, 17I completely recommend this often missed museum, featuring the private collection of the last Marquis of Cerralbo. (JL)

Calle del doctor FourquetA lovely, mile-long street in the Lavapiés part of town full of great art galleries. (TF)

La Fábrica Calle de la Alameda, 9A great photographic gallery and muti-use space with amazing exhibitions and a great cafe. (PF)

Mamá FramboiseCalle Fernando VI, 23If you like sweet treats, this really is one of the most low-key, but absolutely delicious places you can go to for a cake fix. (TM)

Matadero Paseo de la Chopera, 14A wonderful cultural centre and a great spot for arty films set in a former slaughterhouse. Check out their themed seasons and film festivals. (MG)

norman Foster FoundationCalle del Monte Esquinza, 48Architect Sir Norman Foster’s Foundation, a shrine to all things architectural and design. The fact he chose Madrid as a base shows the potential and talent he sees in the city and its people. (TF)

Prado MuseumPaseo del PradoI know you said no touristy spots, but I can’t leave this off the list. The building is impressive in itself, but the masterpieces in there are spellbinding. (XG)

sorolla MuseumPaseo del General Martínez Campos, 37A exquisite jewel of a museum, featuring the work of the eponymous artist, in his original house and studio. (JL)

Teatro LaraCalle Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 15I love this playhouse, especially their recent programming of La Pilarcita and La Llamada. (TF)

Vaqueria Calle de San Joaquín, 16Cool events space that often hosts great shows, culinary events and parties. Find out what’s going on ahead of visiting as they often host amazing events. (UJ)

La Fresh galleryCalle Conde de Aranda, 5The must-stop place for beautifully curated contemporary art, often with queer themes. (GL)

La Juan galleryCalle Juanelo, 21If you want to be in the know of what the alternative crowd are up to in the city, start at one of the regular events here. You never know where the night might take you. (GL)

art and Culture

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Baila CariñoCalle de Sta Engracia, 17Dance into the night to cheesy pop music. Oh, go on, why not? (BP) Bar CorazónCalle de Valverde, 44This place is right next to my store and where our creative family gets together after a long day for cocktails. (FC)

Bear’s BarCalle Pelayo, 4Don’t go down to the woods today, you’re in for a big surprise. As you’d expect, Chueca’s top spot for the hirsute and admirers. (MP)

BlingVarious venues www.facebook.com/blingurbanclubGay Madrid meets RnB. (BP)

Pub BrindisCalle de las Tres Cruces, 8I love this karaoke place, it is a little rough around the edges, but it gives me a sense of nostalgia especially when I’m singing old Spanish hits. (OC)

CubanismoRooftop, El Paracaidista Calle de la Palma, 10Newly-opened, Cuban-inspired cocktail bar on the roof of Malasaña’s concept store. Great Hemminingway-worthy cocktails and live entertainment. (MP)

KlusterCalle Covarrubias, 42Saturday night’s alright for dancing! (BP)

BoiteCalle Tetuán, 27Typical gay bar and club playing some old-school tunes. (BP)

Marta, Cariño!Calle de Luchana, 38Upbeat, uninhibited, poptastic fun with a Spanish accent. (BP)

Medias PuriPlaza Tirso de Molina, 1A ‘secret’ club putting on superfun nights. You’d better like dancing! (BP)

Museo ChicoteGran Vía, 12Fabulous for pre-dinner cocktails. (BP)

The PassengerCalle del Pez, 16Fun, artsy train and station concept bar in hipster Malasaña. (UJ)

PrincipalCalle Marqués de Valdeiglesias, 1 My little secret place is the rooftop of this hotel. You can see all the rooftops of Madrid, it’s so filmic. (LM)

Plaza de ChuecaFind a nice outdoor table, or terrace to sit on and watch the gay world go by. (RL)

radio rooftopPlaza Sta. Ana, 14Madrid’s beautiful fashionista crowd congregate at the rooftop bar of the ME Madrid. (UJ)

room Mate oscarPlaza de Pedro Zerolo, 12Rooftops are the thing to do in Madrid. This one is where the fabulous and the gay come together, in the heart of the Chueca gay neighbourhood. (MP)

stardustCalle Isabel la Católica, 6One of my all-time favourite late night venues in Madrid; an underground club that pretty much guarantees one of those quintessential Madrid nights out. (FC)

Válgame dios Terraza salónCalle Augusto Figueroa, 43Chic, Salamanca-style bar, café and gallery space in Chueca.You can expect plenty of fabulously dressed locals and fun times. (UJ)

drinking and good Times

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MoratínCalle de Moratín, 36This place in the Las Letras neighborhood serves excellent food for a good price. The service is unbeatable. (LM)

MotteauCalle de San Pedro, 9Perfect for breakfast or tea. The owner is lovely too. (TM)

navajaCalle de Valverde, 42One of the coolest restaurants in Madrid with a fantastic kitchen and exquisite atmosphere. (FC)

PlateaCalle de Goya, 5-7Eccentric foodhall set in a majestic old theatre. (UJ)

rocambolescEl Corte Inglés, Calle de Serrano, 52This Salamanca parlour wins the Madrid ice-cream race hands down. (TM)

sala de despieceCalle de Ponzano, 11Chef Javier Bonet cooks up a storm here. Also a great place for drinks. (TM)

Tuk TukCalle del Barquillo, 26Filipino-operated, very casual, pan-Asian streetfood place that is great for a simple lunch or dinner before going out. (UJ)

La duquesitaCalle Fernando VI, 2This place did everything to satisfy my sweet tooth. (UJ)

Lolina Vintage CaféCalle del Espíritu Santo, 9My favourite spot for a coffee in Malasaña – totally retro, yet international. (GL)

MagasandCalle Columela, 4Chic Salamanca café and magazine store hybrid. Try their fresh lemonade. (TM)

Mercado san antonCalle Augusto Figueroa, 24BAn icon in the heart of Chueca, it’s the perfect place for a quick lunch or to catch up with old friends on the rooftop. Browse the food court (and the crowd) or shop for groceries. Look out for the rainbow pigs! (BP)

HarinaPlaza de la Independencia, 10A wonderful place for breakfast. (TM)

Casa MacarenoCalle de San Vicente Ferrer, 44Old and new collide in a gastronomical sensation. I love this place as it has an updated, yet respectful approach to traditional Madrid cuisine. (CM)

CrackCalle de la Luna, 24New and very hip tapas restaurant for a fashionable, alternative crowd. Expect a paired-down, modern, quality menu. It’s open all day but gets super busy in the evenings. (MP)

restaurante el CocinillasCalle de San Joaquín, 3A lovely gem of an eatery that’s a little hard to find at first, but once you do, you’ll be raving about it. (TM)

Il Tavolo VerdeCalle Villalar, 6I love to grab a coffee with the famous carrot cake here. The owner is one of the sweetest people and puts so much love into the cakes. It’s also a very good place for a healthy, fresh lunch. (PF)

Izakaya HanCalle de San Bartolomé, 10Quirky Japanese in the heart of Chueca with Studio Ghibli murals on the wall. Delicious sushi and sashimi, just in case you need a break from Spanish ham. (UJ)

Food and Coffee

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MaggieCalle Conde Duque, 5A fab store that brings the notion of pan-European chic to Madrid. I love shopping here. (TM)

PolarCalle Conde Duque, 5Menswear store selling simple classics that you can’t get enough of. (TM)

sportivoCalle Conde Duque, 20If you’re tired of shopping the mainstream brands, Sportivo will have something for you. It’s not the cheapest store to pick up clothing, but it’s a place with some great, fashionable looks. (UJ)

sup & remCalle Martín de los Heros, 24Designer clothes and accessories featuring a number of great international brands that will have heads turning. (TM)

44storeCalle de Valverde, 39Eclectic, edgy designer clothing that’s proud to bring a new aesthetic to Madrid – we feature its owner in our Voices section. (MP)

TabacaleraCalle de Embajadores, 53An underground and little-known cultural space where I usually spend my Sunday mornings. (MG)

el ParacaidistaCalle de la Palma, 10Multi-level, hipster concept store selling everything from bikes to books. (BP)

garcia MadridBaja de San Pablo, 26Madrid’s finest, contemporary tailoring. (TM)

gastón Y danielaCalle de Velázquez, 42Exotic homewares shop. If textiles are your thing, you’re in for a treat. (TM)

IKB191Calle de Arganzuela, 18Impressive, perfectly curated home furnishing and design store in La Latina. A good time to visit is during the El Rastro market every Sunday. (MP)

Le Marché aux PucesCalle Fernando VI, 2Impressive, curated, luxury multibrand store set in an imposing, old bookshop. Quirky, but a designer shopper’s paradise. (UJ)

andrés gallardoCalle del Conde de Romanones, 5Spanish accessories to die for. You can’t walk out of this showroom without buying something. (TM)

davidelfinCalle Montera, 32Edgy menswear store. Browse online, but you can arrange to meet the designer in the showroom. (TM)

dukeCalle Conde Duque, 18 Exclusive shoestore carrying international brands. (UJ)

el ImparcialCalle del Duque de Alba, 4The old HQ of a local newspaper has been transformed into a designer retail space and gourmet cafeteria. (MP)

el rastroThe flea market is a Madrid institution. I’m probably more taken by the infamous bar crawl than the actual goods being sold, but it’s an electric place to be on a Sunday when you’re still recovering from the night before. It is a very unique place that has existed for ages, where you can see something that locals love to do. You can find very old and valuable things, perhaps picking up some authentic, lost gems of the past. (GG)

shopping

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Casa de CampoThis is a lovely place to clear your head and think. There is also the Campo del Moro, although they don’t let dogs in there. There are so many beautiful gardens in the centre of Madrid, but I love this one the best. (TF)

Parque del oeste A lovely green space to relax or have a picnic with friends. It is not as crowded as Retiro, so you can find a lot of quiet spots. (PF)

Plaza del CordónMy favourite place in Madrid, you are in the centre, but away from all the noise. (MG)retiro ParkIn the summer, I love walking my dogs through the park especially in the area round the Crystal Palace, it’s magical and wonderful. (TF)

royal Botanical gardensAbsolute tranquillity in the city. It’s my go-to place for some time out when I’m having a bad day. (XG)

Temple of debodI love this quite random Egyptian temple in the middle of the city. From here I often take to the teleferique into the big park, Casa de Campo. It’s a great way to spend the day. (EG)

outdoors

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Círculo de Bellas artesA stunning building in Gran Vía. From its rooftop you can see all of the city. It’s very touristy, but it’s easy to understand why. (RL)

gran VíaIt’s crowded, but I love wandering here through the streets at night when the glorious architecture is all lit up. (JL)

La LatinaThis neighbourhood is best known for El Rastro market on Sunday, but I enjoy walking here any day of the week with its old, narrow and stepped streets. (MG)

LavapiésI love wandering the streets of this multicultural barrio. It’s full of surprises and you can take a trip around the world in one afternoon. (LM)

salamancaStylish Madrid. This is one chic neighbourhood. (JL)

Pamper More

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Hammam al ÁndalusCalle Atocha, 14A sublime, Arab bathhouse where your strifes will be washed away. (UJ)

Hotel urso spaCalle de Mejía Lequerica, 8 This is an underground spa at the “bear hotel” in name and customer base. Urso is a gorgeous, luxury boutique hotel, but the spa is super sublime and perfect for a ‘treat-yourself’ day. (MP)

Mao and CathyAlta de San Pablo, 6Fabulous tattoo parlour that has been in business and creating great, original body art since ‘La Movida’ days. I was very nearly tempted to induldge in some unique Spanish ink. (UJ)

salon44Calle de Valverde, 44Hands down the best hair salon in Madrid. You’ll hobnob with scene queens, celebs and Madrid’s fashion crowd here. (BP)

“as we descended from the charming speakeasy in gion, a quintessentially filmic, Kyoto scene unfurled. Through the mist and drizzle on the lantern-lit, cobbled streets, a lone, demure geisha in a beautiful kimono tottered home to her okiya from a gig. I’m told it’s not often that a foreigner sees a geisha on her own – when she’s accompanied by her minder, it’s for the benefit of tourists. she walks off into the night as many have done before her over 400 years.”

uwern Jong, editor-in-Chief Find out more about Kyoto and many other experiential journeys for men of distinction by subscribing to OutThere, purchasing a back-issue or downloading them to your mobile device.

Men of distinction go through life’s journeys with OutThere as their guide. Order an annual subscription today to save 10%. www.outThere.travel/shop

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Experiential journeys for men of distinction

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Contributors

augustín Cascalesosama Chami

Franx de CristalPatrick Fransen

Topacio FreshManuel garcía

Xavi garcíagonza gallego

enrique giménezuwern Jong

Javier Lafiterubén Lópezgozra LozanoTxema Mirón

Luisgé MartínBorja Peña

Martin Perry