1

GOVERNMENT OF INDIA

GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS JOURNAL NO.16

FEBRAUARY 1,2007/MAGHA-12, SAKA 1928

2

vkf/kdkfjd lwpuk,¡

fo"k;% HkkSxksfyd min’kZu oLrq ¼iathdj.k vkSj laj{k.k½ fu;e 2002 ds fu;e 41¼1½ ds

v/khu ;g lwfpr fd;k tkrk gSA

1- fu;e 41¼1½ dk ikyu djus ds fy, ;g lwfpr fd;k tkrk gS fd 1 Qjojh]

2007@ek?k 12] lkdk 1928 fnukafdr HkkSxksfyd min’kZu if=dk dk laLdj.k

la-16 2] vizsSy 2007] ftl rkjh[k dk izek.k ,rn~okjk HkkSxksfyd min’kZu ds

iath;d }kjk fd;k tkrk gS] lkoZtfud #i ls miyC/k djk;k tkrk gSA

vkf/kdkfjd lwpuk,¡

II iathdj.k izek.ki= dks tkjh djuk %

1- ;g ,rn~okjk izekf.kr fd;k tkrk gS fd HkkSxksfyd min’kZu ds iath;d ds

Hkkx ^v* esa izfo"B fd;k x;k gSA dyedkjh dykdkj iqu%#RFkku vkSj

c<ksÙkjh ds fy, jk"Vªh; mn~?kks"k ¼ds-,-vkj-;w-,u-,½] JhdkygLrh] fpÙkwj ftyk]

vka/kz izns’k&517644]fnukad 16]2005 ds ekpZ ds vkosnu la[;k 28 ds varxZr

oxZ 24 esa ’kfey gksus okys oL= vkSj oL= eky] 25 ds varxZr vkus okys

oL= vkSj oxZ 27 ds varxZr vkus okys ltkoV] nhokj isuy] nhokj esa Vaxus

okyh oLrq esa ’kkfey gksus okys JhdkygLrh dyedkjh dk iath—r ekfyd

gSA

;g ,rn~okjk izekf.kr fd;k tkrk gS fd HkkSxksfyd min’kZu ds iath;d ds Hkkx ^v* esa izfo"B fd;k x;k gSA ,y-vkbZ-th-,N-Vh ¼ykudks laLFkk dk egk ijksidkjh VªLV½] ykudks gml] 141] ,oU;q 8] lM+d la[;k&2] cutkjk fgy] gSnjkckn&500034] vka/kzizns’k vkSj dksaMiYyh ydM+h ds f[kykSuS cukus okys ikjLifjd lg;ksxh Ø; vkSj foØ; lgdkjh lfefr fyfeVsM] dksaMiYyh] bczkfgeiV~ue eaMy] —".kk ftyk] vka/kzizns’k] fnukad 10] 2005 ds vDVqcj ds vkosnu la[;k 44 ds varxZr oxZ 16 esa 'kfey gksus okys LVs'kujh] dyk oLrq,¡] funsZ'k vkSj i<+kus dh oLrq,¡] NikbZ ds Cykd] oxZ 20 ds varxZr lxzfgr dh tkus okyh] Le`fr HksaV] oLrq,¡ dyk dh oLrq,¡] buke vkSj ydM+h dk rksgQk oLrq,¡ ¼tks vU; oxksZa es ugh½] oxZ 27 ds varxZr nhokj ij Vkaxh tkus okyh oLrq,¡ ¼oL= jfgr½] vkSj oxZ 28 ds varxZr [ksy] f[kykSus] [ksy dh oLrq,¡ tks vU; oxksZa esa ugha gS] fØlel ds isM dks ltkuk] esa 'kkfey gksus okys dksaMiYyh ckseYyq dk iath—r ekfyd Gs

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OFFICIAL NOTICES

Sub: Notice is given under Rule 41(1) of Geographical Indications of goods (Registration & Protection) Rules 2002. 1. As per the requirement of Rule 41(1), it is informed that the issue No. 16of the Geographical Indication Journal dated 1st February 2006 / Magha-12, Saka 1928 has been made available to the public from 2nd April, 2007.

OFFICIAL NOTICES

II. Issue of Registration Certificate:- 1. It is hereby certified that the entry has been made in Part A of the Register of

Geographical Indication that the Kalamkari Artisans Revival and Upsurge for

National Acclaim (KARUNA), Srikalahasti, Chitoor, Dist., Andhra Pradesh –

517644 is the registered proprietor for SRI KALAHASTHI KALAMKARI for the

goods Textile and Textile Goods under Class 24, clothing falling under Class 25

and furnishings, wall panels, wall hangings falling under class 27 under G.I.

application No.28 as of date 16th of March 2005.

2. It is hereby certified that the entry has been made in Part A of the Register of

Geographical Indication that the LIGHT (LANCO Institute of General

Humanitarian Trust), Lanco House, 141, Avenue 8, Road No.2, Banjara Hills,

Hyderabad – 500 034, Andhra Pradesh and Kondapalli Wooden Toys

Manufacturers Mutually Aided Purchase and Sales Co-operative Ltd., Kondapalli,

Ibrahimpatnam Mandal, Krishna District, Andhra Pradesh are the registered

proprietors for KONDAPALLI BOMMALU for the goods Stationery, artist materials,

instructing and teaching

4

HkkSxksfyd min'kZu vkosnu fooj.k%

HkkSxksfyd min'kZu

vkosnu la[;k

HkkSxksfyd min'kZu ds uke

oxZ Ekky

1 nkftZfyax ¼oMZ½ 30 Pkk;

2 nkftZfyax ¼yksxks½ 30 Pkk;

3 vkjUeqyk /kkrq dk¡p 20 /kkrq dk vkbuk

4 ikspeiYyh bDdr 24

25

27

oL= rFkk oL= eky] csM vkSj Vscy doj

oL=] ixMh

dkisZV] #eky] dEcy vkSj pVkbZ

Q'kZ dks vkoj.k djus dh oLrq

5 Lksye oL= 24 oL= rFkk oL= eky

6 i;Uuwj ifo=k fjax 14 xguk

7 pansjh lkMh 24 lkfM+;ka

8 lksykiqj 24 pknj

5

G.I. Application

No.

Name of Geographical Indication Class Goods

1 Darjeeling (Word) 30 Tea 2 Darjeeling (Logo) 30 Tea 3 Aranmula Kannadi 20 Metal Mirror

4 Pochampally Ikat

24

25 27

Textile & Textile Goods, Bed and Table Cover. Clothing, Headgear. Carpets, Rugs, Mats, Mattings, Materials for covering floors

5 Salem Fabric 24 Textile and Textile Goods

6 Payyannur Pavithra Ring 14 Jewellary 7 Chanderi Saree 24 Sarees 8 Solapur Chaddar 24 Chaddars

9 Solapur Terry Towel 24 Textile Piece Goods – Terry Towel

10 Kotpad Handloom Fabric 24 Textile and Textile Goods

11 Mysore Silk

23 24

25

Raw Silk Yarn Textile and Textile Goods including Sarees Readymade garments, made ups, ties

12 Kota Doria 24

25

Textile and Textile Goods Clothing

13 Mysore Agarbathi 3 Agarbathi / Oodabathi (Incense / Joss Sticks)

14 Basmati Rice 30 Rice

15 Kancheepuram Silk 24 & 25

24: Textile and Textile Goods 25: Clothing including Sarees & Rumal

16 Bhavani Jamakkalam

24

27

Textile and Textile Goods Carpets, Rugs, Mats & Matting

17 Navara – The Grain of Kerala 30 Rice

18 Mysore Agarbathi “Logo”` 3 Agarbathi / Oodabathi

6

9 lksykiqj rsjh rkSfy;k 24 oL= rqdM+k eky &

rsjh rkSfy;k

10 dksVikM gFkdj?kk oL= 24 oL= rFkk oL= eky

11 eSlwj flYd 23 24 25

dPpk js'keh /kkxk oL= rFkk oL= eky ds lkFk lkM+h rS;kj diM+s] cus gq,] VkbZl

12 dksVk nksfj;k 24 25

oL= rFkk oL= eky oL=

13 eSlwj vxjcÙkh 3 vxjcÙkh@mncÙkh

14 cklerh pkoy 30 Pkoy

15 dkaphiqje flYd 24o25 24: oL= rFkk oL= eky( 25: iks'kkd ds varxZr lkM+h vkSj #eky

16 Hkokuh teDdkye 24 27

oL= rFkk oL= eky dkisZV] dEcy] pVkbZ vkSj pVkbZ eky

17 uokjk & dsjy dk nkuk 30 Pkoy

18 eSlwj vxjcÙkh ^^yksxks**

3 vxjcÙkh@mncÙkh

7

19 Kullu Shawl 24 Textile and Textile Goods 20 Bidar

6

21 34

Boxes, Statues, Statuettes, Busts made of Metal Flower Vass, Trays Cigar Can and Ashtrays made of Metal

21 Madurai Sungudi Saree 24 & 25 Textile and Textile Goods

22 Orissa Ikat

23

24

25

Yarn & Threads Tied and Dyed for Textile Use Textile & Textile Goods Clothing

23 Channapatna Toys and Dolls 28 Toys and Dolls

24 Mysore Rosewood Inlay

19

20

27

28

Doors, Partition Screens & Veneers of Wood Statues, Statutes of Wood & Furniture’s Wall Hangings of Wood Jhoolas (Swings) & Toys

25 Kangra Tea 30 Tea 26 Coimbatore Wet Grinder 7 Wet Grinders 27 Phulkari 26 Phulkari Embroidery

28 Kalamkari

24

25

27

Textile and Textile Goods not included in other Classes; Bed and Table Cover and all other goods falling in Class 24 Clothing and all other goods falling in Class 25 Furnishings, Bags, Covers, Cloth Envelopes, Handicraft Items, Wall Panels, Wall Hangings, Wall Paintings

29 Mysore Sandalwood Oil 3 Sandalwood Oil 30 Mysore Sandal Soap 3 Mysore Sandal Soap

31 Kasuti Embroidery – Karnataka 26 Kasuti Embroidery –

Karnataka

8

19 dqYyq 'kky 24 oL= rFkk oL= eky

20 fcnj 6

21

34

cDls] ewfrZ;k¡] NksVh ewfrZ;k¡] /kkrq ds cus

v/kZizfrek

Qwynkuh] /kkrq ;k ydM+h dh Fkkyh

flxkj dsu vkSj /kkrq ds cus ,s'k~Vªs

21 enqjS lqaxqMh ¼;k½ tqUuMh lkM+h

24 o 25 oL= vkSj oL= eky

22 mM+hlk bDdr 23

24

25

oL= cukus ds fy, cka/kk vkSj jaxk x;k

;kuZ vkSj /kkxs

oL= vkSj oL= eky

oL=

23 pUuiVuk f[kykSuk vkSj xqfM+;k

28 f[kykSuk vkSj xqfM+;k

24 eSlwj jksloqM bUys

19

20

27

28

njokts] insZ vkSj ydM+h dh iryh rg

ydM+h dh eqfrZ rFkk NksVh ewfrZ vkSj

QuhZpj

ydM+h ds nhokj esa yVdk;s tkus okyh phtsa

>wyk vkSj f[kykSus

9

32 Mysore Traditional Paintings 16 Mysore Traditional Paintings (Mysore)

33 Coorg Orange 31 Horticulture Product - Orange

34 Mysore Betel Leaf 31 Horticulture Product – Betel Leaf

35 Nanjangud Banana 31 Horticulture Product – Banana

36 Palakkadan Matta Rice 30 Rice 37 Madhubani Paintings 16 Paintings 38 Jamnagar – MS 4 Motor Spirit (Petrol)

39 Jamnagar – ATF 4 Aviation Turbine Fuel (Kerosene Type)

40 Krishna Godavari Gas 4 Fuel

41 Jamnagar – LPG 4 Liquified Petroleum Gas (LPG)

42 Jamnagar – HSD 4 High Speed Disel 43 PISCO 33 Alcoholic Beverage

44 Kondapalli Bommallu (Toys)

16

20

27

28

Stationery, Artist Materials, Instructing & Teaching Materials; Printing Blocks Goods (not included in Other classes) of Wood Wall hangings (non-textile) Games, Playthings, sporting articles not included in other classes; decoration of Christmas tree

45 Poddar Diamond 14 Jewellary 46 Kashmir Pashmina 24 Textiles 47 Thanjavur Paintings 16 Paintings 48 Kashmir Sozani Craft 26 Embroidery 49 Malabar pepper 30 Pepper

50 Allahabad Surkha 31 Horticulture Product Guava

51 Kani Shawl 25 Shawl

52 Nakshi Kantha 19,20,24&25

Wall panels and more; Bolsters & Pillows; Throws, Cushions, Bed Spreads, Runners, Duvet Covers, Lights Quilts (Single & Double), Baby quilts,

10

25 dkaxMk pk; 30 pk;

26 dks;EcÙkwj osV xzSaMj

7 osV xzSaMj

27 Qqydkjh 26 Qqydkjh d<+kbZ

28 dyedkjh 24

25

27

oL= vkSj oL= eky vU; oxZ jfgr] oxZ 24 es 'kfey csM vkSj Vscy vkoj.k

oxZ 25 es 'kfey oL= vkSj vU; eky

ltkoV dk lkeku] FkSyk] vkoj.k] oL= vkoj.k] gLrf'kYi oLrq,¡] nhokj esa yxk;s tkus okys iSuy] nhokj ij Vkaxus okyh oLrq] nhokj esa yxk;s tkus okys fp=

29 eSlwj lSaMyoqM rsy

3 lSaMyoqM rsy

30 eSlqj panu lkcqu

3 eSlqj panu lkcqu

31 dlqrh dlhnkdkjh&dukZVd

26 dlqrh dlhnkdkjh&dukZVd

32 eSlwj ikjEifjd fp=dyk

16 eSlwj ikjEifjd fp=dyk ¼eSlwj½

33 dwxZ ukjaxh 31 ckxckuh mRikn&ukjaxh

34 eSlwj iku iÙkh 31 ckxckuh mRikn&iku iÙkh

35 uatuxqM dsyk 31 ckxckuh mRikn&dsyk

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Ornamental Boxes, Kum-Kum Boxes, Perfume Tins, Leaf Patterned Purses,Tea Trays, Key Chains, Other Contemporary Monumental Replicas Like Charminar, Hightech city, Globe etc., And Idols of Gods and Goddesses; Purses and Hand Bags; Furniture, Mirrors, Picture, Frames;Brooches, Hair Pins, Tie Pins and Buttons; Decorations for Christmas Trees.

54 Alleppey Coir 27 Coir Mats, Mattings, Carpets, Rugs and Geotextiles.

55 Muga Silk 23,24&25

Raw Silk Yarn, Textile and Textile Goods Including Sarees, Mekhela-Chadar, Readymade Garments, Made ups, Ties.

56 Tellicherry Pepper 30 Pepper

57 Coconut shell crafts of Kerala 20

Coconut shell products of Kerala

58 Screw pine crafts of Kerala 27

Screw pine Craft of Kerala, Mats, Wall hangings, Shopping bags, Parasols, Caparisons, bed mats, boxes, purses, tea coasters, prayer mats.

59 Maddalam of Palakkad (Kerala) 15 Maddalam – a percussion instrument of Kerala.

60 Ganjifa cards of Mysore (Karnataka) 16 Ganjifa playing cards falling under class 16.

61 Navalgund Durries 24 Woven Durries of Navalgund

12

36 ikyDdkM eê pkoy

30 pkoy

37 e/kqcuh fp=dyk 16 fp=dyk

38 tkeyxj&,e-,l

4 eksVj LihjhV ¼isVªksy½

39 tkeuxj&,-Vh-,Q

4 ,oh,'ku Vjckbu ¶;wy ¼dsjksflu izdkj½

40 —".kk xksnkojh xSl

4 ¶;wy

41 tkeuxj&,y-ih-th-

4 fyDohQkbM isVªksfy;e xSl ¼,y-ih-th-½

42 tkeuxj&,p-,l-Mh

4 gkbZ LihM Mht+y

43 fildks 33 e|lkj is;

44 dksUMiYyh cksEeyq

16

20

27

28

LVs'kujh] dkjhxj oLrq] funsZ'k vkSj f'k{k.k

oLrq ( fizfUVax CykWd

ydM+h dk eky ¼vU; oxZ

es 'kkfey ugh½

nhokj ij Vkaxus okyh oLrq] ¼xSj&oLrz½ [ksy] [ksy oLrq] [ksy inkFkZ vU; oxZ es 'kkfey ugha( fØlel isM+ dk ltkukA

45 Iksíkj ghjk 14 vkHkw"k.k

46 d'ehj i'ehuk 24 oL=

13

62 Karnataka Bronze Ware 6

Karnataka bronze ware – Religious idols, temple bells.and vessels, lamps and other ritual ware.

63 Thanjavur Art Plate 14 Thanjavur Art plate falling

64 Swamimalai Bronze Icons 6 Bronze Icons 65 Temple jewellery of Nagercoil 14 Jewellery 66 Blue Pottery of Jaipur 21 Pottery 67 Molela Clay Idols 21 Molela Clay Idols 68 Kathputlis of Rajasthan 28 Kathputlis

69 Mysore Jasmine 31 Horticulture Commodity

70 Udupi Jasmine 31 Horticulture Commodity

71 Hadagali Jasmine 31 Horticulture Commodity

72 Alleppey Green Cardamom 30 Spices 73 Applique (Khatwa) Work of Bihar 24 & 26 Textile & Embroidery

74 Sujini Embroidery work of Muzzaffarpur District in Bihar 24 & 26

Bedspreads, wall hanging cushion & Bolster covers / Saris, Dupattas & Kurtas

75 Sikki Grass Products of Bihar 20 Utilitarian & Ornamental products from sikki grass

76 Ilkal sarees 24 Ilkal Sarees 77 Molakalmuru Sarees 24 Molkalmuru sarees 78 Coorg Green Cardamom 30 Agricultural Products 79 Chamba Rumal 24 Textiles

14

lkoZtfud lwpuk

lHkh lacaf/kr O;fDr;ksa ds /;ku esa ;g lwpuk yk;k tkrk gS fd HkkSxksfyd min”kZu if=dk dk ewY; fLFkj fd;k gqvk ,d izdk”ku tqykbZ 2004 ls miyC/k gS A ;g ,d f}ekfld izdk”ku gksxk A izR;sd izfr dk ewY; #o 150/- ¼,d lkS ipkl #i;s½ gS A okf’kZd pUnk #o 900/- ¼ukS lkS #i;s½ gksxk A izfro’kZ N % if=dk,a Nik tk,xk A okf’kZd pUnk Hkstus ds bPNqd ÞHkkSxksfyd min”kZu iath;dß ds uke ij psUuS esa vnk djus okyk fMekaM MªkQ~V Hkst ldrk gS A

HkkSxksfyd min”kZu iathd`fr] ckSf)d lEink vf/kdkj Hkou] bUMfLVª;y ,LVsV] flM~dks vkj-,e-Mh- xksnke ,fj;k] th-,l-Vh-jksM] fx.Mh] psUuS & 600 032 ds dkÅaVj ij lHkh dk;Zfnolksa esa udn pqdkSrk Hkh fd;k tk ldrk gS A blds ckjs esa vfrfjDr tkudkjh dsfy,]

lgk;d iath;d HkkSxksfyd min”kZu] HkkSxksfyd min”kZu iathd`fr] ckSf)d lEink vf/kdkj Hkou] bUMfLVª;y ,LVsV] flM~dks vkj-,e-Mh- xksnke ,fj;k] th-,l-Vh-jksM] fx.Mh] psUuS & 600 032 ls laidZ djsa A nwjHkk’k % 22321992, 93 & 96 QSDl % 22321991

E-mail : gir-ipo@nic.in.

¼go½ ¼,l- pUnzlsdju½

HkkSxksfyd min”kZu iathd

15

PUBLIC NOTICE It is brought to the notice of all concerned that a priced publication of Geographical Indications Journal is available from July 2004. It would be a bimonthly publication. The cost of each Journal is Rs.150/- (Rupees One Fifty Only). The cost of the Annual Subscription is Rs.900 (Rupees Nine Hundred Only). There will be six issues annually. Interested parties who are desirous of subscribing the Annual Subscription for the above Journal may forward a Demand Draft which should be drawn in favour of “Registrar of Geographical Indications” Payable at Chennai. The public can also remit cash at the counter of Geographical Indications Registry, Intellectual Property Office Building, Industrial Estate, SIDCO RMD Godown Area, G.S.T Road, Guindy, Chennai – 600 032 on all working days. For any further information in this regard please contact:- The Assistant Registrar of Geographical Indications, Geographical Indications Registry, Intellectual Property Office Building, Industrial Estate, G.S.T Road, Guindy, Chennai – 600 032 Tel: 2232 1992, 93 &96 Fax No: 2232 1991 E-mail: gir-ipo@nic.in.

Sd. ___________ (S.CHANDRASEKARAN)

Registrar of Geographical Indications

16

17

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GI-APPLICATION NUMBER - 55

Application is made by Patent Information Centre, ASTEC, Assam,(Assam Science Technology and Environment Council ) 3rd Floor, City Co-operative Building U. N. B. Road, Silpukhuri, Guwahati – 781 003, Assam, India for the registration of Part A of the register of MUGA SILK OF ASSAM under Application No.55 in respect of Raw silk yarns and threads for textile use, Textile and Textile goods including Mekhela-Chadar, shawls, dress materials, Saris, Wall hangings. Clothings / Garments, Foot wears, Head gear, Made ups, Ties, motifs, fashion wears, Quilt, furnishings & upholstery, and Cocoon falling in classes 23,24,25,27,31 respectively is hereby advertised as accepted under sub-section (1) of Section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. Applicant : Patent Information Centre, ASTEC, Assam

Assam Science Technology and Environment Council (ASTEC) Represented by: M/s Corporate law group 1106-1107,11th Floor,Kailash Building, 26,Kasturba Gandhi Marg, New Delhi 110001,India. Address : 3rd Floor, City Co-operative Building U. N. B. Road, Silpukhuri,

Guwahati – 781 003 Assam, India Geographical Indication : MUGA SILK OF ASSAM Class : 23, 24,25,27,31 Goods : Raw silk yarns and threads for textile use, Textile and Textile goods including Mekhela-Chadar, shawls, dress materials,

Sarees, Wall hangings. Clothings/ Garments, Foot wears, Head gear, Made ups, Ties, motifs, fashion wears, Quilt, furnishings & upholstery, Cocoon

19

Tkh-vkbZ- & vkosnu la[;k & 55

;g vthZ isVsaV lwpuk dsanz] ,-,l-Vh-bZ-lh] vle] ¼vle foKku izkSn~;ksfxdh vkSj Ik;kZoj.k ifj"kn~½ rhljh eafty] flVh dksvkWijsfVo~ fcfYMax] ;w-,u-ch-lM+d] flYiq[kwjh] xqokgkVh & 781 003] vle] Hkkjr us Hksth gS A oxZ 23] 24] 25] 27] 31 ds vUrxZr Øekuqlkj oL= mi;ksx ds fy, dPpk js’ke lwr rFkk /kkxk] oL= rFkk oL= eky esa‘’kkfey es[ksyk & pknj] ‘’kky] igukok lkexzh] lkMh] nhokj ij Vk¡xus okyh oLrq] oL= @ igukok] twrs] Vksih] rS;kj] Vkb] eksfVQ] QS’ku vkS<uk] jtkbZ] Q+fuZf’kax rFkk lkSQk dh xíh vkSj js’ke dks"k esa vkusokyk vle dk eqxk js’ke dks iath ds Hkkx ^v* es iathd`r djus ds fy, HkkSxksfyd min’kZu vkosnu la[;k 55 ds v/khu ;g vthZ Hksth xbZ gS vkSj HkkSxksfyd min’kZu eky ¼iathdj.k vkSj laj{k.k½ fof/k] 1999 ds Hkkx 13 ds miHkkx ¼1½ ds v/khu mldh Lohd`fr djus gsrq ,un~}kjk ;g foKkiu fn;k tkrk gS A vkosnd % isVsaV lwpuk dsanz] ,-,l-Vh-bZ-lh] vle]

vle foKku izkSn~;ksfxdh vkSj Ik;kZoj.k ifj"kn~ ¼,-,l-Vh-bZ-lh½ izfrfuf/kRo % esL;j~ dkWjiksjsV ykW xzqWi] 1106 & 1107] 11 eafty] dSyk’k fcfYMax] 26] dLrwjck xka/kh ekxZ] ubZ fnYyh 110001] Hkkjr A

irk % rhljh eafty] flVh dksvkWijsfVo~ fcfYMax] ;w- ,u- ch- lM+d] flYiq[kwjh] xqokgkVh & 781 003] vle] HkkjrA HkkSxksfyd min’kZu % vle dk eqxk js’ke oxZ % 23] 24] 25] 27] 31- eky % oL= mi;ksx ds fy, dPpk js’ke lwr rFkk /kkxk]

oL= vkSj oL= eky esa ’kkfey es[ksyk & pknj] ’kky] igukok lkexzh] lkM+h] nhokj ij Vk¡xusa okyh oLrq] oL=@igukok] twrsa] Vksih] rS;kj] Vkb] eksfVQ] QS’ku vks<uk] jtkbZ] Q+fuZf’kax rFkk lksQk dh xíh] js’ke dks"k A

20

(A) Name of the Applicant : Patent Information Centre,

ASTEC,Assam Assam Science Technology and Environment Council (ASTEC)

(B) Address : 3rd Floor, City Co-operative Building

U. N. B. Road, Silpukhuri, Guwahati – 781 003

Assam, India (C) List of association of persons/

Producers/organization/authority : To be provided on request (D) Type of goods : Textiles (E) Specification :

Particulars Muga

Eggs specification

Streak less, follicular imprints consists of a single pattern with oval main cells. Egg colour may vary according to the season or food plants or geographical position. The yolk mass of A.assamensis is more voluminous than other species of the same genera. They hatch out within 1 to 12 days of eviposition during summer and a16 to 25 days in winter

Particulars of Larvae

Three color is Green, Blue and Orange available. The predominant Larva is green- some intensely colored and some with light shade. The nature of distribution of pigment is genetical.

Colours of cocoons Brown with slight variation due to environmental conditions.

21

¼d½ vkosnd dk uke % isVsaV lwpuk dsanz] ,-,l-Vh-bZ-lh] vle]

vle foKku izkSn~;ksfxdh vkSj Ik;kZoj.k ifj"kn~ ¼,-,l-Vh-bZ-lh½

¼[k½ irk % rhljh eafty] flVh dksvkWijsfVo~ fcfYMax] ;w- ,u- ch- lM+d] flYiq[kwjh] xqokgkVh & 781 003] vle] HkkjrA ¼x½ O;fDr@mRiknd@laxBu@ izkf/kdkj la?k dh lwph % ekaxs tkus ij fn;k tk;sxk A ¼/k½ ekyksa dk oxZ % oL= ¼M½ fufnZf"Vdj.k %

fooj.k Eqkxk

vaMk fufnZf"Vdj.k /kkjh de] vaMkdkj eq[; dksf’kdk esa ,d uewuk okyk ijrksa okyk Nki gksrk gS A HkkSxksfyd fLFkfr] [kk?k ikS/ksa ;k ekSle ds vuqlkj vaMk dk jax cnyrk gS A vU; tkfr dh rqyuk es vlkesfUll dk vaMs dk ihyk Hkkx Hkkjh & Hkjde gksrk gS A xzh"e dky es A ls 12 fnuksa vkSj tkM+s dh _rq esa 16 ls 25 fnuksa esaaa vaMs ls ckgj vk tkrs gS A

YkkokZ dk fooj.k Rkhu jax gjk] uhyk vkSj larjk miyC/k gS A gkoh gksus okyk ykokZ gjk] dqN xgjk jax vkSj dqN gydk jax gksrk gS A jax ds forj.k dh izd`fr tUe fo"k;d gksrh gS A

22

Shape of cocoon Oval (with rudimentary peduncle) with slight variation due to environmental conditions

Size of cocoon 4.5-5.5 cm (L) x 2.1-2.7 cm (B) with slight variation due to environmental conditions

Wt. of single cocoon with pupa 2.35-3.0 gms with slight variation due to environmental conditions

Colours of yarn Golden Yellow (Reelable)

Nos of co- coon require to produce1 kg Silk yarn 4500-6500 nos.

Single cocoon filament length 350-500 mtr.

Thickness of single cocoon filament 4.5-5.0 Denier

Ultra-violet ray absorption capacity 78.8%(smooth piece of muga cloth) 85.8%(rough piece of muga cloth) 100% Muga Silk Mekehla-Chadar with decoration or design using traditional Assamese motives or without decoration/design (i.e. plain). Muga Silk Mekhela is a loin cloth. Muga Chadar with design/decoration on both ends or pallu or “Achal”. The borders are decorated with “patties”. The ends/pallu/Achal are decorated with frills. (F) Name of the Geographical Indication (and particulars):

MUGA SILK OF ASSAM Muga the golden-yellow silk produced by Antheraea assama is found only in the Brahmaputra Valley of India. This species of silkworm is semi-domesticated in that the rearers collect the worms that crawl down at the end of their larval period. They are allowed to spin cocoons in the rearer's houses. The shimmering golden yellow silk is referred to in literature from as long as 1662 BC .The Antheraea assamensis is cultivated especially in Brahmaputra valley because it’s characteristic ecological requirements are found only in its natural abode. (G) Description of Goods Silk is a protein fibre produced by silkworm for spinning cocoon. The purpose of the cocoon is to provide a protective casing to the silk worm during the most critical period of its life i.e. the pupal stage. Basically there are two proteins, which form the silk fibre i.e. "fibroin" which constitutes the core of the fibre and "Sericin" a waxy substance that encases the fibroin. These proteins are synthesized by the silk worm from the leaf it feeds on during its larval period.

23

js’ke dks"k dk jax Ik;kZoj.k fLFkfr ds dkj.k tjk ls cnyko ds lkFk Hkwjk

js’ke dks"k dk vkdkj Ik;kZoj.k fLFkfr ds dkj.k tjk ls cnyko ds lkFk 4-5&5-5 lsa-eh-¼yEckbZ½ x 2-1 & 2-7 ls-eh- ¼pkSM+kbZ½

I;wik ds lkFk ,d js’ke dks"k dk otu

Ik;kZoj.k fLFkfr ds dkj.k tjk ls cnyko ds lkFk 2-35 & 3-00 xzke A

Lkwr dk jax Lo.kZ ihyk

1 fdyks js’ke lwr mRiknu djus ds fy, js’ke dks"k dh la[;k

4500 & 6500 la[;k

,d js’ke dks"k js’kk dh yEckbZ

350 & 500 ehVj

,d js’ke dks"k js’kk dh eksVkik

4-5 & 5-0 Msuh;j

Ikkj uhy yksfgr fdj.k dh lks[kus dh {kerk

78.8% ¼eqxk oL= dk fpduk VqdM+k½ 85.8% ¼eqxk oL= dk [kqjnjk VqdM+k½

IkjEijkxr vle eksfVQ ds mi;ksx ls 100% eqxk js’ke es[ksyk & pknj dks ltk;k ;k fMtkbZu fd;k tkrk gS ;k fcuk ltkoV @ fMtkbZu ds ¼vFkkZr lknk½ A eqxk flYd es[ksyk y¡xksVh oL= gS A eqxk pknj ds nksuks Nksj ;k iYyq ;k Þvpyß dks fMtkbZu@ltk;k tkrk gSA lhek dks ÞiV~VhlÞ ls ltk;k tkrk gS A Nksj@iYyq @vpy dks >yjh ls ltk;k tkrk gS A ¼p½ HkkSxksfyd min’kZu ds uke ¼vkSj fooj.k½ % vle dk eqxk js’ke Hkkjr ds czgeiq= /kkVh esa gh Lo.kZ & ihyk js’ke eqxk ik;k tkrk gS ftldk mRiknu vuFksjkb;k vLlkek djrk gS A bl js’ke ds dhM+s dks v/kZ & ?kjsyq j[kk tkrk gS ftldks ikyu & iks"kd idM+rk gS tks ykokZ ds vafre {k.kksa esa jsaxrk gS A ikyu & iks"kd ?kj esa bls js’ke dks"k cukus ds fy, NksM+ fn;k tkrk gS A 1662 bZ-iw ds lkfgR; ls gh fVefVekgV Lo.kZ ihyk js’ke dk mYys[k fd;k tkrk jgk gS A czãiq= /kkVh esa gh vuFksjkb;k vLlkek dh [ksrh gksrh gS D;ksfd bldh fof’k"V Ik;kZoj.k vko’;drk bldh izkd`frd fuoklLFkku ij nh ik;k tkrk gS A ¼N½ eky dk o.kZu %

js’ke izksVhu js’kk gS ftldk mRiknu js’ke ds dhM+s js’ke dks"k ls djrs gS A js’ke dks"k dk dk;Z gS js’ke ds dhM+ksa dks muds thou ds uktqd {k.k vFkkZr I;wik Lrj esa laj{k.k iznku djuk gS A vkerkSj ls nks izksVhu gksrs gS tks js’ke js’kk dk fuekZ.k djrs gS vFkkZr ÞfQczksbuß tks js’kk dk ewy ?kVd gS vkSj ^lsjhflu* ekse inkFkZ gS tks fQczksbu dks <drh gS A ykokZ le; es iÙkksa ij js’ke ds dhMsa bl izksVhu dk d.ktksM+ djrh gS A

24

here are three types of silkworm found in Assam, particularly mulberry, eri and muga silk. The muga silk is golden-yellow in colour. Muga possesses the highest tensile strength among all the natural textile fibres. Muga cloth has 85.8% absorption capacity of ultra-violet ray of sunlight. Muga Silk Mekhela-Chadar is a traditional dress for Assamese women. Mekhela is a loin cloth of length 2.5m and width 80 cm to 90 cm. Chadar is a wrapper cloth of width 100 cm and length 2.75 m to 3 m.Muga Silk saree of length 5.5 m and 6.25 m in case of saree with blouse. The width of the saree is 115 cm.Muga Silk plain fabric of different width ranging from 45 cm to 115 cm for making garments, furnishing materials and decorative items. H) Geographical area of production and Map as shown in the page no. 40

Geographical Position: North Latitude : Between 24o15’00’’ to 28o00’00’’ East Longitude : Between 89o30’00’’ to 96o06’00’’ Area : 78,438 Square kilometers.

. Assam was known as 'Kamarupa' or 'Pragjyotish' in the period of the Epics. Human inhabitation of this area dates backs to about 2000 BC. Suvarnakudya is one of the place in Assam.Asom is located in the tropical latitudes (24.30 N and 280 N) and eastern longitudes (89.50 E and 96.10E) The rivers Brahmaputra and Barak, in the north and south respectively, carve out deep valleys that represent the major part of the state. It is in the narrow strip of the Brahmaputra and Barak valley that the MUGA plant grows abundantly and cultivation is restricted to this area as well

(I) Proof of Origin [Historical Records]

The people inhabiting the region of Assam have carried on the production of muga silk as it is called as a tradition. Based upon the historical record available, people of Assam have been using muga silk since 321 B.C. The scientific name of Muga silk (Antheraea assama) itself shows its originate.

Asom had a reputation as producer of high quality silk and that the Brahmaputra

valley was on the ancient silk route: Yogini Tantra, II.9, p. 258-260; Babrubaha Parva, V. 30-32; Periplus of the Erythrean Sea, p 264;

25

vle esa rhu izdkj ds js’ke ds dhM+s ik;s tkrs gS] fo’ks"kr eycsjh] ,jh vkSj eqxk js’ke A eqxk js’ke dk jax Lo.kZ ihyk gS A lHkh izkd`frd oL= js’kk dh rqyuk esa eqxk esa lcls vf/kd izlk;Zrk ‘’kfDr gS A lw;Z ds ikj uhy yksfgr fdj.kksa dks lksa[kus dh {kerk eqxk oL= esa 85.8% gS A

zvleh L=h;ksa dk ijEijkxr iks’kkd eqxk js’ke es[ksyk & pknj gS A es[ksyk y¡xksVh

oL= gS ftldh yEckbZ 2-5 eh- vkSj pkSM+kbZ 80 ls-eh- ls 90 ls-eh- gS A pknj vko`Ùk oL= gS ftldh pkSM+kbZ 100 ls-eh- rFkk yEckbZ 2-75 eh- ls 3 eh- gS A Cykmt+ ds lkFk lkM+h esa eqxkk js’ke lkM+h dh yEckbZ 5-5 eh- vkSj 6-25 eh-gS A lkM+h dh pkSM+kbZ 115 ls-eh- gS A igukok oL=] QfuZf’kax oLrq vkSj lqlfTtr oLrqvksa dh eqxk js’ke lk/kk oL= dh fofHkUu pkSM+kbZ 45 ls-eh- ls 115 ls-eh- gS A

¼t½ mRiknu dk HkkSxksfyd vapy vkSj rD’kk Ik`LB la[;k esa fn;k x;k gS A HkkSxksfyd fLFkfr % mÙkjh v{kka’k % 24

0 15’ 00’ ls 28

o 00’ 00’’ ds chp

IkwohZ ns’kkarj % 890 30’ 00’ ls 96

o 06’ 00’’

{ks= % 78, 438 oxZ fdyksehVj egkdkO;ksa ds dky ls vle dks ^dke:Ik* ;k ^izxT;ksfr"k* ds uke ls tkuk tkrk gS A 2000 bZ-iw- ls gh bl {ks= esa ekuo fuokl djrs Fks A vle esa ,d txg dk uke lqo.kZdqM+;k gS A vle m".k dfVc/kh; v{kka’k ¼24-30 m vkSj 280 m½ vkSj iwohZ ns’kkarj ¼89-50 iw vkSj 96-10 iw½ esa fLFkr gS A mÙkj vkSj nf{k.k esa czãiq= vkSj cjkd unh Øekuqlkj xgjh /kkVh dk fuekZ.k djrs gS tks jkT; ds eq[; Hkkx dks n’kkZrk gS A ;g czãiq= vkSj cjkd /kkVh dk l¡djk Ikêh gS tgka eqxk ikS/ksa vf/kd ek=k es mxk;sa vkSj [ksrh dh tkrh gS] bl {ks= rd lhfer gS A ¼>½ mRifÙk dk lcwr ¼,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k½

vle {ks= esa clus okys yksx eqxk js’ke dh [ksrh djrs Fks ftls ijEijk dgrs gS A miyC/k

,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k ds vuqlkj] 321 bZ-iw-ls gh vle ds yksx eqxk js’ke dk mi;ksx djrs vk jgs

gS A eqxk js’ke ¼vuFksjkb;k vLlkek½ dk oSKkfud uke gh blds mn~Hko dks n’kkZrk gS A

mPp xq.krk js’ke dk mRiknu ds fy, vle dk uke gS vkSj izkphu js’ke ekxZ esa czãiq= /kkVh

vkrk gS % ;ksfxuh ra=] II-9] iq"B 258&260] cczqckgk ioZ] V. 30-32] isjhiyl vkWQ nh ,jh=h;u

lh] iq"B 264-

26

MUGA identified with Asomiya traditional knowledge, expressions of folklore and culture since antiquity

The scientific name of MUGA silk (Antheraea Assama) itself shows its origin

The term ‘MUGA’ [unlike Pat (Pattaja) and Endi (Eranda)] is a Asomiya term

connoting the rich amber colour of the cocoon.

Earliest mention of MUGA: Arthasastra attributed to Kautilya mentioned in 321 B.C., that the varieties of textile commodities known as dukula, , was the product of the country Suvarnakudya/Sonkudhia (Located in Kamarupa Earlier name of Assam) which was as red as sun (batarkaprabhan), as soft as the surface of gem, being woven while the threads were very wet (manishingdha dake vanam), of uniform (coturasra) or mixed texture (vyamisravana). Kautilya also referred to a variety of silk garments known as patrona produced in the country Suvarnakudya were the best.

(Kautilya’s Arthashastra: Book II, Chapter 11, sloka 104,107)

Tavernier, John Baptiste “Travels in India”, 1662 p. 220; who made special mention on silkworm variety from Kamarupa (Asom) that remained on trees all year round, meaning nothing but the conventional outdoor rearing of MUGA worm even today.

Tallish, Shihabuddin 1662 accompanying Mir Jumla (who invaded Assam) during

the same time observed the same.

Bogle, George: Treaty with Bhutan (1775) : Bodo tribals traded munga silk (Latin: Anthera assama) with Bhutan through the Buxa pass.

Helfer, T.W. (1837): On the indigenous Silkworms of India. — The Journal of the

Asiatic Society of Bengal (Calcutta), VI (I), 1837: 38–47, pl. V–VI. 104): rearing of silkworms is the main occupation of many castes of Assam

Barua, B.K. [A Cultural History of Assam (Early Period)” Vol. 1 page 103 – 104. 5 Published 1969] quoting various sources states the following:

that Asom enjoyed a good reputation for producing natural silk of fine texture;

that MUGA was a stouter and more durable fabric than other silk;

That MUGA silk from Asom was very much in demand in Europe; and

that it formed a trade of the East India company during the 18th through early 19th

centuries.

Barua, Kanak Lal: Ksauma, Dukula and Patrorna, Studies in the early History of Assam; p. 232 - 235.

27

iqjkus le; ls gh eqxk dks vlfe;k dk ijEijkxr Kku] yksdk/;;u dh vfHkO;fdr vkSj laLd`fr

ls tkuk tkrk gS A

eqxk js’ke ¼vuFksjkb;k vLlkek½ dk oSKkfud uke gh blds mn~Hko dks n’kkZrk gS A

eqxk ‘’kCn [iV ¼iV~Vtk½ vkSj ,aMh ¼,jaMk½ ds foifjr] vlfe;k ’kCn gS tks js’ke dks"k ds

le`) vEcj dks fn[kkrk gS A

eqxk dk iwoZ mYys[k % 321 bZ-iw-esa dkSfVY; dk vFkZ’kkL= mYys[k djrk gS fd oL=ksa ds izdkj dks

nqdqyk dgrs gS] tksa lqo.kZdqM;k@lksudqfn;k ¼dke:Ik esa fLFkr vle dk iwoZ uke½ ns’k dk mRikn

gS] tks lw;Z ¼cVjdkizHkku½ dh rjg yky gS] jRu ds lrg dh rjg uje gS] tc /kkxk cgqr

xhyk ¼euh"khax/kk Mkds oue~½ gksrk gS rc cqurs gS] lery ¼dksVqjklzk½ ;k fefJr rUrqfoU;kl xzaFku

¼O;kfeJkou½ gksrk gS A dkSfVY; us fofHkUu izdkj ds js’ke oL= dk mYys[k fd;k ftls iVjks.kk

dgrs gS] lqo.kZdqM;k ns’k esa mRikfnr dks lokSÙke dgka A

¼dkSfVY; vFkZ’kkL= % iqLrd II] v/;k; II] ’yksd 104] 107½

VosfuZ;j] tkWu ckifVLV ^^VªosYl bu bafM;k**] 1662 I`k"V 220] us dke:Ik ¼vle½ ds js’ke ds

dhMka+s ds izdkj dk fo’ks"k mYys[k fd;k tks lkyHkj isM+ esa jgrs gSa vFkkZr dqN ugh cfYd vkt Hkh

exk dhM+s dk jhfrc) ckgjh ikyu iks"k.k gks jgk gS A

Ekhj tqeyk ¼ftlus vle ij vkØe.k fd;k½ ds lkFk 1662 es vkus okyk rfy’k] f’kgkcqíhu us Hkh

blh le; ;gh ns[kk A

Hkksxys] tkWtZ % VªhVh ohr~ HkwVku ¼1775½ % cqDlk ikl ls cksM+ks tutkfr yksx HkwVku ls eqaxk js’ke

¼ysfVu % vuFksjkb;k vLlkek½ dk O;kikj djrs Fks A

gsyQj] Vh-McY;w- ¼1837½ % vkWu nh bafMthul flYdokeZ vkWQ bafM;k & nh tkSjuy vkWQ nh

,f’k;kfVd lkslbVh vkWQ csaaxky ¼dydÙkk½] VI (I), 1837 : 38 – 47, PI, V-VI.104) :

vle ds dbZ tkfr ds yksxksa dh eq[; is’kk js’ke ds dhM+ksa dk ikyu iks"k.k gS A

c#vk] ch-ds-¼, dYpjy fgLVªh vkWQ vle ¼,jyh ihfj;M~½** Hkkx-1 Ik`"B 103&104-5- 1969 dks

izdkf’kr½ us fofHkUu lzksrks* dks dgrs gq, fuEufyf[kr dgka A

cf<+;k rUrqfoR;kl xzaFku ds izkdqfrd js’ke mRiknu ds fy, vle dh vPNh bTtr Fkh A

vU; js’ke dh rqyuk esa eqxk iks<+k vkSj vf/kd fBdkÅ oL= gS A

;wjksi esa vle dh eqxk js’ke dh cgqr ek¡x gS vkSj

18 oha vkSj iwoZ 19 oha ’krkCnh ds nkSjku bZLV bafM;k dEiuh dk ;g ,d O;kikj Fkk A

c#vk] dud yky % lkSek] nqdqyk ,aM iVjksjuk] LVMhl bu nh b;yhZ fgLVªh vkWQ vle] Ik`"B

232 & 235-

28

Choudhury P. C. “The History of Civilisation of the people of Assam to the Twelfth Century A.D.”, a Ph. D. thesis of, page 330.

“Muga Silk Industry” of S. N. Chowdhury, published by Directorate of Sericulture,

Govt. of Assam, page 4 - 5. “Silk Production, Processing and Marketing”, by Mahesh Nanavaty, page 107 – 108.

“The nutritional biology of Muga cultutre and seed cocoon preservation in Assam” a

Ph.D. thesis of Iswar Sarma Bharali, page 16, 17, 19.

“Hand Book of Assam, 1976” published by Directorate of Information and Public Relations, Govt. of Assam, page 77

Gait, Barua, mentioned that Assam enjoyed a high reputation for producing natural

silk of fine texture. They proved that the Assam is the homeland for Muga silk. They mentioned that Muga was stouter and more durable fabrics than pat silk. Assam silk, especially Muga silk was very much demanding Europe and it formed a trade of the East India company during the 18th through early 19th centuries. Gait [3], also mentioned that the custome house at Haida opposite Goalpara, fixed a duty fees of 10% according to the terms of commercial treaty executed with Gaurinath Singh by Captain Welsh on behalf of East India company in 1793 A. D. He reported that 224 mounds of Muga silk thread were exported and the value was placed at Rs. 53899.00 during that period.

The first official records of Muga worm and Muga silk culture appeared in 1662. The

culture of silkworm could be traced out from the notes of great writer. Shihabuddin tallish, who was accompanied by Mirjumla at the time of invasion of Assam.(Guwahati was occupied on 4th Feb, 1662). There was mention in his describing on the dresses, the people of Assam used. The official records of 1662 was that “the silk are good but the people produce little more than they require for use” was attributed to famous traveler J. B. Tavernier[6], who made special mention on silkworm variety from Assam that remained on trees all the round, meaning nothing but the conventional outdoor rearing of Muga worm even today.

Barua, stated that Bhaskarverma sent to Harshabardhan through Hamsabhega, about

1300 years ago (mentioned in Harchacharit),” silk cloths, while as autumn moonlight loin cloths smooth as the birch bark, which included all the specimens of Eri, Pat and Muga silk.”

(J) Method of Production

MUGA silkworms are raised outdoors. Newly hatched worms are mounted on food plant (som or soalu). They are put either on the east or north side of the trees to get sufficient sunshine by the help of bamboo poles.

29

pkS/kjh ih-lh- ^^nh ghLVªh vk¡WQ flohykbts’ku vkWQ nh ihiy vkWQ vle Vw nh VqoyFk lsapwjh ,-Mh] ih-,p-Mh-’kks/k]

Ik`"B 330-

,l-,u-pkS/kjh dk ^^eqxk flYd banLVªh** Mk;jsDVªsV vkWQ lsjhdypj] vle ljdkj] Ik`"B 4&5] }kjk izdkf’kr

egs’k ukukorh }kjk fyf[kr ^^flYd izksMd’ku] izkslsflax ,aM ekdsZfVax** Ik`"B 107&108

^^nh U;wVª’kuy c;ksyth vkWQ eqxk dypj ,aM lhM+ dksdqu fizljos’ku bu vle**] bZ’oj ’kekZ cjyh dk ih-,p-Mh

’kks/k] Ik`"B 16] 17] 19-

^^gsaM cqg vkWQ vle] 1996]** Mk;jsDVªV vkWQ bUQkWes’ku ,aM ifCyd fjys’ku] vle ljdkj] }kjk izdkf’kr] Ik`"B

77-

xbV] c#vk] dgrs gS fd cf<+;k rUrqfoU;kl xzaFku ds izkd`frd js’e mRiknu ds fy, vle dh vPNh bTtr Fkh

A ;g lkfcr djrk gS fd vle gh eqxk js’ke dk x`g gS A mUgksaus dgka fd isV js’ke dh rqyuk esa eqxk iks<+k vkSj

vf/kd fBdkÅ gS A vle ds js’ke eq[;r% eqxk js’ke dh ;wjksi esa cgqr ek¡x Fkh vkSj ;g 18 ohaaa vkSj iwoZ 19 oha

’krkCnh ds nkSjku bZLV bafM;k dEiuh dk ,d O;kikj Fkk A xbV [3] us ;g Hkh mYys[k fd;k fd xksyikjk ds

lkeus gSM+k dk dLVe gkÅl us 10% dk M;wVh ’kqYd yxk;k tks 1793 bZ- es bZLV bafM;k dEiuh dh vkSj ls dsIVu

osY’k vkSj xkSjhukFk flag ds O;kolkf;d laf/k dk fu;e Fkk A mUgksaus dgka fd 224 ekÅaM dk eqxk js’ke /kkxk dk

fu;kZr fd;k tkrk Fkk vkSj ml dky esa mldh dher 53899-00 #Ik;k Fkh A

1662 es eqxk dhM+k vkSj eqxk js’ke ikyu dk igyk ljdkjh izek.k feyk A js’ke ds dhM+ksa ds ikyu gesa

egku ys[kd f’kgkcqíhu ls feyrk gS tks vle ds vkØe.k ds le; ¼4 Qjojh 1662 dks xqokgkVh ij dCtk gks

x;k Fkk½ ehjtqeyk ds lkFk vk;s Fks A mUgksaus vle dh turk ds mi;ksx djus okys iks’kkd dk mYys[k fd;k A

1662 dk ljdkjh izek.k dgrk Fkk fd ^js’ke cf<;k gS ysfdu turk viuh vko’;drk ls dN T;knk mRiknu

djrs Fks** dk dFku dk Js; izfl) ;k=h ts-ch- VosfuZ;j [6] dks tkrk gS ftUgksaus vle ds js’ke ds dhMksa ds

izdkj dk fo’ks"k mYys[k fd;k tks isMksa+ ij QSyk gksrk gS] vFkkZr vkt Hkh eqxk dhM+ksa dk ikyu jhfrc) :Ik ls

ckgj gksrk gS A

c#vk dgrs gS] yxHkx 1300 lky igys HkkLdjoekZ us g"kZo/kZu dks gelkHksxk }kjk Hkstk ¼gjppfjr es

mYysf[kr½]ß js’ke oL=] Hkksto`{k Nky dh rjg ir>M+ ds ekSle esaa y¡xksBh fpduk gS] ftlesa lHkh iztkfr ,jh]

iV vkSj eqxk js’ke ’kkfey gS Aß

¼¥½ mRiknu dh fof/k % eqxk js’keh dhMksa dks ckgj ikyk tkrk gS A u;s vaMs ls fudysa dhMksa dks [kk/k ikS/ksa ¼lkse ;k lksvyq½ es

Mkyk tkrk gS A mUgsa ck¡l dh ydM+h ls isM+ ds iwohZ ;k mÙkjh fn’kk es Mkyk tkrk gS rkfd mUgsa /kwi fey ldsa A

30

Another method of mounting the newly hatched Muga worms is by putting small twigs bearing soft and tender leaves over the newly hatched worms in the egg boxes/baskets. The worms will crawl up to the leaves. The twigs with the worms are then tied with suitable branches at different places of the Som/Suala trees for uniform distribution.

The worms start eating from the margin of soft leaves. They eat up the midrib and even the petiole of the leaf during the last two instars. When they have stripped the tree of foliage, the worms make a mass exit down the trunk. They are collected and placed on another tree. When ready to spin their cocoons , these caterpillars once again exit the tree where they were feeding.

5 layings may be a reared in a full grown Som/Sualu tree and about 200 cocoons may be harvested in one crop.

About 300 Som/Sualu Plants may be planted in one acre (about 3 bighas) of land with a spacing of 3m x 3m. In these plantations about 900 laying of muga worm can be reared in one crop easily. Such, major crop for producing reeling cocoons may be taken up twice at year during April-May (till mid June) and September-October (up to middle of November).

Muga Food plants:

Name of Silkworm SI. No Name of host plants

Muga Silkworm i. Primary host plants (Antheraea assamensis) a) Som (Machilus bombysina) Family: b) Soalu (L. polyantha) Satumiidae.

ii. Secondary host plants a) Mezankari (L. Citrata Blume) b) Dighloti (L.Salicifolia Rexb)

Stages of Muga Silk worm and textual description of production:

Sl. No. Muga Different Stages Summer Winter of Silk worms (Minimum days) (Maximum days) 1 Egg stage 7 14 Diapuse eggs 2 Larval stage 22 45 3 Spinning stage 3 7 4 Pupal stage 14 35 5 Moth stage 4 6 Total Days 50 107

The golden-yellow silk produced by Antheraea assama is found only in the Brahmaputra Valley of India. This species of silkworm is semi-domesticated in that the rearers collect

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nwljk rjhdk gS bu u;sa vaMs ls fudys eqxk dhM+ka dks eqyk;e NksVs Vguh vkSj dksey iÙkksa dh lgk;rk ls bUgsa vaMk cDl @ Vksdjh es Mkyk tkrk gS A ;g dhMsa iÙkksa ij jsaxrs jgsaxsaaaa A bl dhM+ksa ls yxs gq, Vguh dks lkse ;k lqvkyk isM+ ds vuqdwy ’kk[kk ds fofHkUu txgkas ij leku forj.k ds fy, ck¡/kk tkrk gS A eqyk;e iÙksa ds fdukjksa dks dhMsa [kkuk ’kq# djrs gS A vkf[kjh nks buLVkj es os feMjhc ;k iÙksa ds ihVh;ksy dks Hkh [kkuk ’kq# dj nsrs gS A tc os iÙkksa ds lewg dks [kk ysrs gS rc os ruk ls fudy tkrs gS A mUgsa bdVBk djds nwljs isM+ ij Mkyk tkrk gS A tc js’ke dks"k cukus ds fy, rS;kj gks tkrs gS] ;s >ks>k fQj ls isM+ dks NksM+ nsrs gS ftls os [kk jgs Fks A iwjh rjg mxsa lkse @ lqvkyw isM+ ij 5 ysbZax ikys tkrs gS vkSj ,d iSnkoj es 200 js’kedks"k dh dVkbZ gksrh gS A yxHkx 300 lkse @ lqvkyw ikS/ksa ,d ,dM+ ¼yxHkx rhu Hkhxk½ tehu tgk¡ 3 eh- x 3 eh dh txg dks NksM+dj mxkbZ tkrh gS A ,d Qly esa vklkuh ls 900 ysbZax esaaa eqxk dhM+ksa dk ikyu gksrk gS A vr% js’ke dks"k ds eq[; Qly ds mRiknu ds lky esa nks ckj vizSy & ebZ ¼e/; twu rd½ vkSj flrEcj & vDVwcj ¼uoEcj ds e/;½ rd fd;k tkrk gS A eqxk [kk?k ikS/ksa

js’ke dhM+ksa dk uke Øe la[;k

Ekqxk js’ke dhM+k ¼vuFksjkb;k vLlkek½ ifjokj% lkrqfeMs

I. izkFkfed gksLV ikS/ksa v½ lkse ¼eNhyl ckEchlhuk½ vk½ lksvkyw ¼,y-ikyh;Urk½ II. f}rh; gksLV ikS/ksa v½ estudkjh ¼,y- flVªVk Cywe½ vk½ fnxyksVh ¼,y- lkyhlhQksfy;k jsDlc½

Ekqxk js’ke ds dhM+s dh voLFkk vkSj mRiknu dk ikB dk fooj.k%

Øe la[;k

Ekqxk

js’ke ds dhM+ksa dh foHkUu voLFkk xzh"e ¼U;wure fnu½

TkkM+s dh _rq ¼vf/kdre fnu½

1- vaMk voLFkk Mk;iql vaMk 7 14

2- YkkokZ voLFkk 22 45

3- LfifUuax voLFkk 3 7

4- I;wik voLFkk 14 35

5 dhM+k voLFkk 4 6

Dqy fnu 50 107

Hkkjr ds czãiq= /kkVh esa gh flQZ Lo.kZ & ihyk js’ke ftldk mRiknu vuFksjkb;k vLlkek djrk gS] ik;k tkrk gS A bl tkfr ds js’ke ds dhMs+ v/kZ & ikyrw gksrs gS] blesa ikyu & iks"kd dhM+s dks bdVBk djrk gS] tks vius ykokZ ds vafre {k.kksa esa jsaxrk gS A ikyu & iks"kd ds /kj esa js’ke dks"k dks dkruk ds fy, NksM fn;k tkrk gS A

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the worms, which crawl down at the end of their larval period. They are allowed to spin cocoons in the rearer's houses.

The muga worm is fed on the leaves of food plants, particularly on som (Machilus odoratissama) and soalu ( Teranthera monopetala). A som or soalu tree is considered fit for rearing of silkworms only after it is four year old. The muga silkworm gives five broods a year corresponding to the different seasons, “katiya” (autumn crop),”jarua” (winter crop), “jethua” (summer crop), “aherua” (early monsoon crop), and bhadia (late monsoon crop).

The bulk of the cocoons come from the autumn crop that is considered more prolific than other crops. A single female moth of muga lays 150-200 eggs after copulating with the male for 6-8 hrs. Usually, the female is tied to a 'kharika' for laying eggs. Such kharikas are hung on a frame in the house. When the eggs hatch on the eighth day during summer, the tiny worms along with kharika are suspended on the twigs of a young tree, inaccessible to ants and other insects. Soon these grubs begin to crawl on the leaves and feed on them. The muga worms moult four times before they mature, and select their own food according to their stages of growth. A tree will feed 1,000-1,500 worms at time. If during the rearing their leafy food is exhausted, the worms’ crawls down the trunk. The rearer puts a coil of straw rope or a band of plantain leaves around to tree to serve as a barrier. The rearer promptly gathers them, puts them on a triangular bamboo sieve and suspends it on another tree. After the last moult, the worms feed with great voracity and begin to grow rapidly. Unlike other wild worms, when they mature muga worms crawl down the tree during the night. The watching rearers pick them on a bundle of dry leafy twigs called “Jali”.

The worms are moved inside the hutments when they begin to spin. The cocoon is completed within three to eight days. After the worms pupate and cocoon formation is complete, the cocoons are removed from the jali (cocoonage), The best cocoons are sorted out and kept apart as seed cocoons for further propagation and the rest are stifled to kill the inside pupae. The cocoons are dried in the sun for a few days and stored for reeling. Muga rearing is a very risky job. A vigilant watch us kept by the rearers while the worms feed on trees. The worms’ chief enemies are ants, wasps, hornets, birds and the house sparrows. A kind of wasp known as, dinkana is most deadly. For protection against pests, a straw band smeared with a lot of sand or ash is tied a round the tree at a height of about three feet. The cocoon has a very weak peduncle and is golden-yellow. The cocoons are boiled in soap and soda solution and are reeled directly on an appliance called "bhir". The fibre is isolated from the silkworm cocoons. A major portion of the cocoon viz. the pupae is wasted after extraction of the fibre. Pupae constitute about 60% of the dry cocoon weight. The pupae are composed of proteins, fats and lipids. It is expected that a large quantity of dry pupae will be available every year. Besides dry pupae, deformed cocoons stained cocoons; dead pupae etc. are also available as bio waste from sericulture industry among others. The waste and damaged pupae and stained cocoons are the two main sources of protein. Silkworm pupae have 30% fat and 50% protein. It is a tradition in Assam to raise muga silk.

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Ekqxk dhMksa dks [kk?k ikS/kksa ds iÙkksa fo’ks"kr% lkse ¼eNhyl vksMksjkVhLlek½ vkSj lksvkyw ¼Vsjursjk eksuksisVkyk½ dks [kkus ds fy, NksM+ fn;k tkrk gS A lkse ;k lksvkyw isM+ dks js’ke ds dhMksa dk ikyu & iks"k.k ds fy, rHkh mi;qDr ekuk tkrk gS tc os pkj lky ds gks A fofHkUu ekSle ds vuwlkj eqxk js’ke ds dhMsa ik¡p ckj vaMk nsrs gS] Þdkfr;kß ¼ir>M+ dk Qly½] Þt:vkß ¼tkM+s dk Qly½] Þtsrqvkß ¼xzh"e Qly½] Þvns#vkß ¼iwoZ ekulwu Qly½ vkSj HkkfM;k ¼vafre ekulwu Qly½ A vR;f/kd js’ke dks"k ir>M+ Qly ls vkrk gS tks vU; Qly dh rqyuk es mRiknu ’khy gS A eqxk dk ,d eknk dhM+k iq#"k ls 6&8 /kaVk laHkksx djus ds ckn 150&200 vaM+k nsrk gS A vkerkSj ls eknk dks vaMk Mkyus ds fy, ^[kkfjdk* ls cka/kk tkrk gS A ,sls [kkfjdk ?kj ds Ýse ij r¡kxk tkrk gS A tc xzh"e esa vkBosa fnu vaMs ls cPps fudyrs gS] NksVs dhM+ksa dks [kkfjdk ds lkFk r:.k isM+ ds rguks ij rk¡x fn;k tkrk gS rkfd phaVh vkSj vU; dhVk.kq ogk¡ igqap u lds A tYnh gh ;g xzcl~ iÙkksa ij jsaxus yxrs gS vkSj mls [kkrs gS A ifjiDo gksus ls igys eqxk dhM+s pkj ckj ia[k fxjkrs gS vkSj viuh o`f) voLFkk ds vuqlkj viuk Hkkstu pqurs gS A ,d isM+ ,d le; esa 1]000 & 1500 dhM+ks dks f[kyk ldrh gS A vxj muds ikyu iks"k.k ds le; iÙkksa dk Hkkstu lekIr gks x;k] rks ruk ls jsaxrs gq, dhMsa uhps vk tk;saxssA bldks jksdus ds fy, ikyu iks"kd Hkwlk jLlh dk xksyk ;k dsyssa ds iÙksa dks isM+ ds vkl & ikl ck¡/k fn;k tkrk gS A ikyu iks"kd djus okyk mudks rqjar idM+dj f=dks.k ck¡l dh Nyuh es Mky fn;k tkrk gS vkSj nwljs isM+ ij rk¡x fn;k tkrk gS A vafre ia[k fxjkus ds ckn dhM+s cM+h rhozrk ls [kkrs gS vkSj tYnh cM+s gks tkrs gS A vU; taxyh dhMksa dh rqyuk esa] eqxk dhM+sa tc ifjiDo gksrs gS rc jkr dks isM+ ds uhps jsaxrs gS A ns[kus okyk ikyu iks"kd mldks idM+ dj lw[ks iÙks ;qDr Vguh ftls ^tyh* dgrs gS eas Mky fn;k tkrk gS A dhM+ks dks dqVhj ds Hkhrj NksM+k tkrk gS tc os dkruk ’k# djrs gS A js’ke dks"k rhu ls vkB fnuksa esa lEiw.kZ gks tkrs gS A dhM+k I;wik ds ckn vkSj js’ke dks"k fuekZ.k lEiw.kZ gks tkrk gS rc js’ke dks"k dks tyh ¼dksdwust½ ls fudkyk tkrk gS A cf<+;k js’ke dks"k dks fudkyk tkrk gS vkSj vkxs iztuu ds fy, js’ke dks"k cht ds :Ik es j[kk tkrk gS vkSj ckdh dks ekjus ds fy, I;wik es NksM+ fn;k tkrk gS A js’ke dks"k dks dqN fnuksa ds fy, lw;Z ds uhps lw[kusa ds fy, NksM+ fn;k tkrk gS vkSj fjfyax es tek fd;k tkrk gS A eqxk ikyu cgqr gh tksf[ke okyk dke gS A ikyu & iks"kd fuxjkuh ls ns[krk gS tc dhM+s isM+ ij Hkkstu dj jgs gS A dhM+ks ds eq[; ’k=q phaVh] rrS;k] gkM+k] fpfM+;k vkSj /kj xkSjS;k gS A ,d izdkj dk rrS;k ftls fnudkuk dgrs gS cgqr [krjukd gS A ekjd dhV lsa lwj{kk ds fy,] vf/kd feV~Vh ;k jk[k ls isM+ ds vkl ikl yxHkx rhu QhV dk Hkwlk ck¡/kk tkrk gS A js’ke dks"k dk detksj iq"io`Ur gksrk gS vkSj Lo.kZ uhyk gksrk gS A js’ke dks"k dks lkcqu vkSj lksM+k /kqyko es mckyk tkrk gS vkSj lkexzh ftls ^Hkhj* dgrs gS lh/kh fxêh fd;k tkrk gS A js’ke ds dhM+s js’ke dks"k ls js’kk dks vyx fd;k tkrk gS A js’ke dks"k dk izeq[k Hkkx tSls js’kk ds fu"d"kZ.k ds ckn I;wik cckZn gks tkrk gS A lw[kk js’ke dks"k ds Hkkj dk 60% I;wik gS A I;wik izksfVu] QSV vkSj yhfiM ls cuk gksrk gS A ;g mEehn fd;k tkrk gS gj lky cM+h ek=k esa I;wik miyC/k gS A lw[kk I;wik ds vykok] fo:fir js’ke dkss"k] nkx js’ke dks"k] e`r I;wik vkfn dks’kdhV ikyu m|ksx vU; esa c;ksosLV ds :Ik esa miyC/k gS A izksVhu dk nks eq[; lzksr csdkj rFkk {kfr I;wik vkSj nkx js’ke dks"k gS A js’ke fdM+k ds I;wik esa 30% QSV vkSj 50% izksfVu gksrk gS A eqxk js’ke dks iSnk djuk vle dh ijEijk gS A

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Optimum Temperature and humidity requirement:

Different activities require certain range of temperature and humidity to complete the life cycles of Muga silk worms as furnished below

SI. No Muga

Different Stages I activities Summer Temp. °C Winter%

humidity 1 Incubation of eggs 25-26 80-85 2 Larval stage 24-26 75-80 3 Spinning of cocoon 24-25 75-80 4 Storage of seed cocoon l 25-28 70-80

Emergence 5 Pairing Of moths 25-28 75-80

Stages of production of manufactured goods:

1. Degumming of fibre with alkali extracted from seeded banana tree

(Bheem kol) typical to Asom as well as with commercial alkali

2. Hand Reeling

3. Winding

4. Warping

5. Weaving

Similar to treatment of other silks.

Starching: The Muga Silk ‘warp’ yarn in hank form is treated with starch of “Sagu” or “Maida” for strengthening and smoothing the yarn.

Winding: This is the process where the starched Muga Silk yarn is transferred on to the

bobbins.

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vuqdwyre rkieku vkSj vknzZrk vko’;drk eqxk js’ke dhM+k ds thou izfØ;k dks lEiw.kZrk iznku djus ds fy, fofHkUu xfrfof/k;ksa ds fy, dqN ykieku vkSj vknzZrk pkfg, tks fuEufyf[kr gS A

Øe la[;k

Ekqxk

fofHkUu voLFkk @ xfrfof/k xzh"e rkieku 0ls

TkkM+k % vknzZrk

1- vaMk lsuk 25 & 26 80 & 85

2- YkkokZ voLFkk 24 & 26 75 & 80

3- js’ke dks"k dk LihfUuax 24 & 25 75 & 80

4- Ckht js’ke dks"k ,y~ ,ejtsal dk xksnke

25 & 28 70 & 80

5- dhM+k dk tksM+h 25 & 28 75 & 80

fufeZr eky ds mriknu dh voLFkk

1- cht;qDr dsyk isM+ ¼Hkhe dksy½ ls vydyh fu"d"kZ.k djds js’kk dk MhxEehax

djuk tks vle ds lkFk O;kolkf;d vydyh dh fof’k"rk gS A

2- gsaM jhfyax

3- obfUMax

4- okfiZax

5- foohax

vU; js’ke dk mipkj leku gS A LVkfpZax %

Eqkxk js’ke ^okiZ* lwr dk gkad voLFkk esa ^lkxq* ;k ^eSnk* dh LVkpZ ls mipkj fd;k tkrk gS rkfd lwr etcwr vkSj uje gks A

obfUMax % ;g og izfØ;k gS tc LVkpZ eqxk js’kk lwr dks cksfcul~ es LFkkukarj.k fd;k tkrk gS A

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Warping: Warping is the process where the warp ends are wound on to the weaving beam so as to facilitate the weaving process. The yarn from bobbins are taken in sections and wound on to the warping beam as per required numbers of threads. Weaving:

At weaving both warp and weft interlacement takes place. The yarn from the warp beam is drawn through the heals and reels in two sheets and between the two sheets weft yarn is introduced.

At the weaving stage for designed or decorative Mekhela-Chadar or Sarees the border, body and the pallu/Achal are decorated as per requirements.

Starching of fabric:

As per the requirement of users of Muga Silk fabric the starch of ‘Sagu’ or ‘Maida’ is applied on the fabric during weaving to get the finishing.

Drying: The fabric after weaving a definite length is cut away from the loom and kept under the strong sun light for drying.

Finishing:

The fabric after drying is folded and kept under heavy weight for 24 to 48 hours instead of ironing.

(K) Uniqueness:

“Muga” is a purely Assamese word that represents a particular natural colour like Golden Yellow or Brown. As this Silk is Golden Yellow it was named as “Muga Silk”.

Muga is popular for its natural colour of spun gold, glossy texture and durability. The gold colour and shine of a muga textile increases with every wash, in sharp contrast to the natural law of decay of shine in fabrics with time. Muga possesses the highest tensile strength among all the natural textile fibres and is comfortable to wear in both summer and winter. Muga is also believed to have medicinal properties and is apparently used as a skin whitener.

“Muga silkworms (Antheraea assama) are found only in the state of Assam and feed on 'som' (Machilius bombycina) and 'soalu' (Litsaea polyantha), producing an unusual lustrous golden-yellow, attractive and strong silk… It has the monopoly of world production of golden-yellow muga silk. ”

Color stability (everlasting) Golden colour and shine increases with each wash

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okfiZax % okfiZax og izfØ;k gS tgk¡ okiZ Nksj dks foohax che es okWmUM~ fd;k tkrk gS rkfd foohax izfØ;k es vklkuh gks A cksfcu ls lwr vuqHkkx ysdj tkrs gS vkSj vko’;d la[;k esa /kkxsa ds vuqlkj okfiZax che ij okWmUM~ yxk;k tkrk gS A foohax % foohax esa nksuksa okiZ vkSj os¶V dk vkil es feyuk gksrk gS A okiZ che ls ghy vkSj jhy ds nksuksaa‘’khV ls lwr fudkyk tkrk gS vkSj nksukas ’khV ds chp es os¶V lwr Mkyk tkrk gS A foohax Lrj ij es[ksyk pknj ;k lkM+h ds lhek dks fMtkbZu ;k lqlfTtr fd;k tkrk gS vkSj iYyw @ vpy dks vko’;drk ds vuqlkj ltk;k tkrk gS A oL= dk LVkfpZax % eqxk js’ke oL= ds vo’;drk ds vuqlkj miHkksDrk ^lkxq* ;k ^eSnk* dk LVkpZ foohax ds nkSjku oL= ij yxkrs gS rkfd vko’;d fQuhf’kax fey lds A Mªfbax % foohax ds ckn oL= dks dj/kk ls vko’;d yEckbZ dkV fn;k tkrk gS vkSj Mªfbax ds fy, lw;Z ds fdj.kksa ds uhps j[kk tkrk gS A fQuhf’kax % oL= dks Mªfbax ds ckn eksM+k tkrk gS vkSj v;fuax dh txg Hkkjh Hkkj ds uhps 24 ls 28 /kaVs ds fy, j[kk tkrk gS A ¼V½ vrqyuh;rk % Þeqxkß ’kq) :Ik ls vleh ’kCn gS tks fo’ks"k izkd`frd jax tSls Lo.kZ ihyk ;k Hkwjk dk izfrfuf/kRo djrk gS A ;g js’ke Lo.kZ ihyk gS bls eqxk js’ke dgrs gS A Ekqxk lqizfl) gS viuh izkd`frd Lo.kZ jax] pedhyk rUrqfoU;kl xzU/ku vkSj fVdkÅiu ds fy, A Lo.kZ jax vkSj eqxk oL= dh ped gj /kksus ds ckn vkSj Hkh pedrk gS tks izkd`frd fu;e dh le; ds lkFk oL= dh ped de gks tkrh gS dk ikyu ugh djrk gS A vU; izkd`frd oL= js’kk dh rqyuk es eqxk esaaa lcls vf/kd izlk;Zrk ’kfDr gS vkSj ;g nksuks xzh"e vkSj tkM+s esa vkjken; gS A ,slk ekuk tkrk gS eqxk es vkS"kf/k xq.k Hkh gS vkSj ;g Ropk dks lQsn djus ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS A

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Tensile Strength (4.53g/dn); strongest amongst all silks UV Absorption capacity (>80%) Durability (over 50 years) Acid resistant (resistant to concentrated Sulfuric acid) High iron content Comfortable to wear both in summer and winter Eco-friendly expensive

(l) Inspection Body

The inspection body comprising of the following organizations:

Department of Sericulture, Govt. of Asom Representative Committee to be formed Central Silk Board of India weavers’ association Weavers Service Centre ARTFED Relevant District Industry Officer Representative of Deptt Sericulture PIC /ASTEC Institute of Advanced Studies in Science and Technology, Asom – Laboratory and Certification

(J) Others

Besides manufacturing Muga Silk cloths, the Silk industry is also giving employment to thousands of peoples, and the Silk industry is plying a leading role in the economy of the state. As Brahmaputra Valley is also known for tourist place, tourists are visiting the valley every year and now the Muga Silk has reached each corner of the country and also in the other parts of the world.

39

Þeqxk js’kedhM+k ¼vuFksjkb;k vLlkek½ flQZ vle jkT; esa gh ik;k tkrk gS vkSj lkse ¼eNhyl ckEchlhuk½ vkSj lksvkyw ¼fyrlkbZ;k iksfy;ark½ dks [kkrk gS] vlk/kkj.k pedhyk Lo.kZ & ihyk] vkd"kZd vkSj etcwr js’ke dk mRiknu djrk gS A bldks fo’o ds Lo.kZ & ihyk eqxk js’ke ds mriknu dk ,dkf/kiR; gS Aß

jax fLFkjrk ¼fpjLFkk;h½

gj /kqykbZ ds lkFk Lo.kZ jax vkSj pedrk gS A

izlk;Zrk ‘’kfDr (4.53 g/dn); lHkh js’ke esa ’kfDr’kkyh A

ikj uhy yksfgr fdj.ksa lks[kuk ’kfDr (> 80%)

fVdkÅiu ¼50 o"kZ ls T;knk½

rstkc izfrjks/kd ¼dkUluVªsVM+ lYQwfjd ,flM ls izfrjks/kd½

mPp yksg ek=k

nksuks xzh"e vkSj tkM+s esa vkjken;

Ik;kZoj.k & nksLr

CkgqewY;

¼B½ fujh{k.k fudk; % fujh{k.k fudk; esa fuEufyf[kr laxBu ’kkfey gS %

dks’kdhV ikyu foHkkx] vle ljdkj A

izfrfuf/k lfefr dk fuekZ.k djuk gS A

lsaVªy flYd cksbZ vkWQ bafM;k A

ohojl ,’kksf’k;s’ku

ohojl lfoZl lsUVj

,-vkj-Vh-,Q-bZ-Mh

lacaf/kr~~ ftyk m|ksx vf/kdkjh

dks’kdhV ikyu foHkkx dk izfrfuf/k

ih-vkbZ-lh @ ,-,l-Vh-bZ-lh

baLVhV;wV vkWQ ,MokalM+ LVMhl bu lkWbal ,aM Vsduksyksth] vle & yscksjsVjh ,aM ljVhfQds’ku

¼M½ vU; eqxk js’ke oL= ds fuekZ.k ds vykok] js’ke m|ksx gtkjksa yksxksa dks jkstxkj ns jgk gS vkSj jkT; ds vFkZO;oLFkk eas js’ke m|ksx vxz.kh; Hkwfedk fuHkk jgk gS A tSlk dh czãiq= /kkVh Ik;ZVu txgksa ds fy, tkuk tkrk gS] gj lky Ik;ZVd vkrs gS vkSj vc eqxk js’ke ns’k ds gj dksus es igq¡p pqdk gS vkSj fo’o ds vU; Hkkxksa esa Hkh A

40

41

G.I. – APPLICATION NUMBER 64 Application is made by Patent Information Centre, Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, West Block No. 7, RK Puram, New Delhi, India for registration in Part A of the register of Swamimalai Bronze Icons under Application No 64 in respect of Bronze Icons falling under Class 6 is hereby advertised as accepted under sub-section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. Applicant : Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Ministry of Textiles,

Government of India West Block No. 7, RK Puram, New Delhi, India

Address : Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India

West Block No. 7, RK Puram, New Delhi, India

Geographical Indication : SWAMIMALAI BRONZE ICONS Class : 6 Goods : Handicraft

42

Tkh-vkbZ- & vkosnu la[;k 64

;g vthZ isVsaV lwpuk dsUnz] fodkl dfe’uj ¼gLrf’kYi½] oL= ea=ky;] Hkkjr ljdkj] osLV CykWd u-7] vkj-ds-iqje] ubZ fnYyh] Hkkjr us Hksth gS A oxZ 6 ds varxZr vkusokyk LokeheyS dkaL; ewfrZ;k¡ dks iath ds Hkkx ^v* es iathd`r djus ds fy, HkkSxksfyd min’kZu vkosnu la[;k 64 ds v/khu ;g vthZ Hksth xbZ gS vkSj HkkSxksfyd min’kZu eky ¼iathdj.k vkSj laj{k.k½ fof/k] 1999 ds Hkkx 13 ds miHkkx ¼1½ ds v/khu mldh Lohd`fr djus gsrq ,un~}kjk ;g foKkiu fn;k tkrk gS A vkosnd % fodkl dfe’uj ¼gLrf’kYi½ oL= ea=ky;] Hkkjr ljdkj] osLV CykWd u-7] vkj-ds-iqje] ubZ fnYyh] Hkkjr irk % fodkl dfe’uj ¼gLrf’kYi½ oL= ea=ky;] Hkkjr ljdkj] osLV CykWd u-7] vkj-ds-iqje] ubZ fnYyh] Hkkjr- HkkSxksfyd min’kZu % LokeheyS dkaL; ewfrZ;k¡ oxZ % 6 eky % dkL; ewfrZ;k¡

43

(A) Name of the applicant : Development Commissioner (Handicrafts),

Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, West Block No. 7, RK Puram New Delhi

(B) Address : Development Commissioner

(Handicrafts), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, West Block No. 7, RK Puram New Delhi

(C) List of association of persons /

Producers / organization / : To be provided on request. Authority

(D) Type of goods : Handicraft (E) Specification : Idols of bronze (copper, brass and

lead) and“panchaloha” (copper, brass, lead silver and gold) of various shapes and sizes for the purpose of pooja.

• Name of the Geographical Indication

SWAMIMALAI BRONZE ICONS

Swamimalai, lies 40 kms away from the Thanjavur town, Thanjavur District in Tamilnadu is the main place of the production of bronze items. Even though people practicing this craft are scattered, only Swamimalai has the most significant number of people working on this craft and is the only traditional site where this craft has been practiced from the Chola period. The said geographical indication identifies and indicates the manufactured goods originating in the place of Swamimalai in Thanjavur Dsitrict of Tamilnadu. This craft is widely practiced in Thanjavur District.

• Description of goods:

• Idols of bronze and “panchaloha” of various shapes and sizes for the purpose of pooja. Different deities/figures are made according to the demand/order.

• Sometimes small icons of pure gold are also made against order.

44

¼d½ vkosnd dk uke % fodkl dfe’uj ¼gLrf’kYi½ oL= ea=ky;] Hkkjr ljdkj]

osLV CykWd u-7] vkj-ds-iqje] ubZ fnYyh]

¼[k½ irk % fodkl dfe’uj ¼gLrf’kYi½

oL= ea=ky;] Hkkjr ljdkj] osLV CykWd u-7] vkj-ds-iqje] ubZ fnYyh]

¼x½ O;fDr@mRiknd@laxBu@ izkf/kdkj la?k dh lwph % ekaxs tkus ij fn;k tk;sxk A ¼/k½ ekyksa dk oxZ % gLrf’kYi ¼M½ fufnZf"Vdj.k % iwtk ds fy, fofHkUu vkdkj vkSj vkd`fr ds dkaL; ¼rk¡ck] ihry vkSj tLrk½ vkSj ÞiapykSgß ¼rk¡ck] ihry] tLrk] pk¡nh vkSj lksuk½ dh ewfrZ;k¡ A ¼p½ HkkSxksfyd min’kZu ds uke % LokeheyS dkaL; ewfrZ;k¡ ratkowj ‘’kgj ds 40 fd eh- nwj LokeheyS fLFkr gS] rfeyukMq esa ratkowj ftyk dkaL; phtksa ds mRiknu dk izeq[k txg gS A bl f’kyi dk vH;kl djus okys yksx QSys gq, gS] flQZ LokeheyS es gh f’kYi ij dk;Z djus okys yksx vf/kd la[;k esa gS vkSj ;gh ,d ijEijkxr txg gS tgk¡ pksy dky ls gh bl f’kYi dk vH;kl djus gS A rfeyukMq ds ratkowj ftys eas LokeheyS txg es mRikfnr eky ml HkkSxksfyd min’kZu dh igpku vkSj izrhd gS A ratkowj ftyk eas bl f’kYi dk vH;kl O;kid :Ik ls gksrk gS A ¼N½ eky dk o.kZu %

• Iwktk ds fy, fofHkUu vkdkj vkSj vkd`fr ds dkaL; vkSj iapykSg dh ewfrZ;k¡ A vkns’k @ ek¡x ds

vuslkj fofHkUu nsorkvksa @ vkd`fr;k¡ cukuk A

• Ekk¡x ds vuqlkj dHkh ‘’kq) lksuk ds NksVs ewfrZ;k¡ cukrs gS A

45

• Geographical area of production and maps as shown in page no. 51

• Proof of origin / Brief History (Historical Records)

History of this craft dates back to the Chola period. As known worldwide ‘Chola’ bronzes are the heritage of this craft. Considered as the classical period of Tamil culture, the chola period dates from AD 850 to 1279. The famouns bronzes of Tamilnadu appeared this time. Raja Raja Chola who built the Thanjavur temple, brought lot of sculptors from various part of the country who were skilled in making icons out of metal, wood and stone. After the completion of Thanjavur temple they were engaged in building temples in and around Kumbakonam and Dhavasuram. At last they were engaged in building the temple at Swamimali. As the work progressed the sculptures found the ‘Alluvial soil’ on the banks of Cauvery river near Swamimalai is suitable for making the molds for bronze icons. The speciality of this soil is when used for making molds for the wax model it never develops any cracks upon drying, where else any soil taken more than 5 km away from this site develops heavy cracks which is unsuitable for casting bronze.This encouraged the sculptors to stay there and continue bronze work. From then its traditionally passing on generation after generation.The sculptors who make this icon are called as “Sthapathis”. If the icon is for a public place they are different from the one made for a home. These calculations are called as “Aayaadhi calculations”. It’s believed that if idols are made according to these calculations, they would bring prosperity. Before commissioning the work it should be clear where it’s going to be placed and the importance of the deity. All images are made for workshop purpose. Several rituals have to be performed before the work. The size of the image is considered to be very important. There is a book called “Sarvaartha shilpa sinthamani” written by “Jathidam Veerasamy” which gives all the details about these calculations. All the idols are made according to these calculations

Proof and evidences Saraswathi Mahal library, started by the King Serfoji of Thanjavur, has a vast collection of palmleaf manuscripts which give the evidences about this craft. All the writings and shilpa shastras were conserved, studied and even published by this library. Lots of evidences about the practice of the craft is available even from the stone inscriptions of chola period.

46

¼t½ mRiknu dk HkkSxksfyd vapy vkSj uD’kk Ik`LB la[;k esa fn;k x;k gS A ¼>½ mRifÙk dk lcwr @ la{ksi bfrgkl ¼,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k½ pksy dky ls gh bl f’kYi dk bfrgkl gS A fo’oHkj eas tkurs gS fd bl ^pksy* dkaL; gh bl f’kYi dh /kjksgj gS A bldks rfey laLd`fr dk ’kkL=h; le; ekuk tkrk gS] pksy dky 850 bZ- ls 1279 bZ- rd FkkA bl le; rfeyukMq esaa izfl) dkaL; dk mn; gqvk A jkt jkt pksy ftUgksaus ratkowj eafnj dk fuekZ.k fd;k] ns’k ds dbzZ Hkkxksa ls ewfrZdkj ysdj vk;s tks /kkrq] ydMh vkSj iRFkj ls ewfrZ;ka cukus esa dq’ky Fks A ratkowj eafnj cukus ds ckn os dqEHkdks.ke vkSj /kkoklqje ds vklikl eafnj cuk jgs Fks A var esa os LokeheyS esa cuk jgs Fks A tc os dk;Z dj jgs Fks rc f’kYidkjksa us ik;k fd LokeheyS ds ikl dkosjh unh ds fdukjs dh ^dNkjh** feêh dkaL; ewfrZ;k¡ dh eksYM cukus esa vuqdwy gS A bl feêh dh fo’ks"krk ;g gS fd tc ekse uewuk dk eksYM cukrs gS rks bles dHkh njkj ugh iM+rk lw[kus ds ckn] tcfd bl txg ls 5 fd-eh- nwj dh feêh ls dkaL; dkfLVax cukuk izfrdwy gS D;ksafd Hkkjh njkj vk tkrh gS A blls f’kYidkjksa dks ;gka jgus dh izsj.kk feyh vkSj dkaL; dk;Z djrs jgsa A blds ckn ;g ikjEikfjd :Ik ls ih<+h nj ih<+h pyhA f’kYidkj tks bu ewfrZ;ksa dks cukrs gS mUgsa ^LFkkifr* dgrs gS A vxj ;g ewfrZ;k¡ lkoZtfud {ks= ds fy, gS rks og ?kj ls cus gq, ls vyx gksxk A bl x.kuk dks ^vk;kf/k x.kuk* dgrs gS A ;g ekuuk gS fd vxj ewfrZ;k¡ bl x.kuk ls djsa rks [kq’kgkyh izkIr gksxh A dk;Z ’kq# djus ls iwoZ ;g lkQ fd;k tkrk gS fd bls dgk¡ yxkuk gS vkSj nsork dk egRo gS A dk;kZ’kkyk dk;Z ds fy, lHkh izfrek cukbZ tkrh gS A dk;Z dk izkjaHk djus ls iwoZ dbZ jhfr & fjoktksa dks ikyu djuk iM+rk gS A izfrek dh vkdkj dks cgqr eq[; ekuk tkrk gS A ,d fdrkc gS ^lokZFkk f’kYi lharkeuh* ftls ^tfFkne fojkLokeh* us fy[kk gS tks x.kuk dk gj fooj.k nsrk gS A bu x.kuk ds vuqlkj lHkh ewfrZ;k¡ cukbZ tkrh gS A lcwr vkSj izek.k ljLorh egy iqLrdky; ftls ratkowj ds jktk ljQksth us ’kq# fd;k Fkk] esa cgqr rkyi= ikaMqfyfi dk laxzg gS tks bl f’kYi dk izek.k nsrs gS A bl iqLrdky; }kjk lHkh ys[ku vkSj f’kYi ’kkL= dk laaj{k.k] v/;;u vkSj izdk’ku Hkh fd;k tkrk gS A pksy dky ds ik"kk.k mRdh.kZ ys[k es Hkh bl f’kYi ds vH;kl ds ckjs esa dkQh izek.k gS A

47

• Method of Production:

For Bronze icons – copper, Brass, lead For Panchaloha – Copper, Brass Lead, silver, gold

1. ‘Alluvial soil’ from the banks of cauvery river for making molds 2. Bees wax, ‘kungilium’, kerosene for making wax model 3. Crucible and cola for melting the metal

Tools

1. Sharp knife shaped tools were heated and used in making the wax models. 2. Minute chisels were used for finishing the icon after taking it out of the mold

and finely polished with various sized files.

Product

1. Idols of bronze and “panchaloha” of various shapes and sizes for the purpose of pooja.

2. Different deities were done according to the demand/order. 3. Sometimes small icons of pure gold is also made against order.

After determining all the measurements according to the rules of shilpa shastra, the image is molded in wax. Wax is mixed with “kungilium” oil and then heated. When it becomes liquid, it’s allowed to cool. The soft mixture is then molded with hands. Small knife like sharp tools are used for modelling. The head, hands, legs and body are made according to the measurements and joined together. After completion of the model, runners are set in wax for the metal to reach all the parts. Then the image is covered with the local soil until it gets the desired thickness. The molded image is kept under the sun for drying. All this takes around a month for drying. Only mouth for the runner can be seen outside. Once the mold is dried enough it’s heated to melt down the wax so that the metal can be cast in that area. This is why this process is called “lost wax process”. The mold is covered with cow dung fuel with some firewood and heated. On the day of casting the mold should also remain hot so that it can easily withstand the temperature fluctuation when the hot metal is poured in. For bronze icons the raw materials Copper, brass and lead are mixed in a proportion of 82:15:3 and heated in a crucible using coal as fuel and a blower. The metal used weighs 8 times the weight of the wax model. At about 12000C the mixture gets melted into hot liquid. The mold is kept underground, leaving the mouth portion of the runner upward. The molten liquid is poured inside the mold with great care. The mold and the metal get cooled overnight and the image is taken out breaking the mold. This image will be very

48

¼¥½ mRiknu dh fof/k % dkaL; ewfrZ;k¡ ds fy, & rk¡ck] ihry] tLrk A iapykSgk ds fy, & rk¡ck] ihry] tLrk] pk¡nh] lksuk A

1- eksYM cukjs ds fy, dkosjh unh ds fdukjs ls ^dNkjh feêh* ysrs gS A

2- ekse uewuk cukus ds fy, e/keD[kh ekse] dqafxfy;e] dsjkslhu A

3- /kkrq dks fi?kykus ds fy, Øwlhcy vkSj dks;yk A

vkStkj

1- rst pkdw vkdkj ds vkStkj dks xje djrs gS vkSj ekse uewuk ds fy, mi;ksx djrs gS A

2- eksYM ls fudkyus ds ckn ewfrZ dks NksVs Nsuh ls Qhuhf’kax fd;k tkrk gS vkSj fofHkUu vkdkj ds

jsrh ls vPNh rjg pedk;k tkrk gS A

mRikn

1- iwtk ds fy, fofHkUu vkdkj vkSj vkd`fr ds dkaL; vkSj iapykSg dh ewfrZ;k¡ A

2- vkns’k@ek¡x ds vuqlkj fofHkUu nsorkvksa dks cukukA

3- dHkh ek¡x ds vuqlkj ’kq) lksuk ds NksVs ewfrZ;k¡ cukrs gS A

f’kYi’kkL= ds fu;e ds vuqlkj] lHkh eki ds ckn] ekse es vkd`fr dks <+kyk tkrk gS A ekse dks ^dqafxfy;e* rsy ls feJ.k fd;k tkrk gS vkSj ckn es xje fd;k tkrk gS A rc ;g ikuh gks tkrk gS] rks BaM+k djus ds fy, NksM fn;k tkrk gS A bl uje feJ.k dks gkFk ls eksYM fd;k tkrk gS A eksMfyax ds fy, NksVs pkdw tSls rst vkStkj dk mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS A eki ds vuqlkj flj] gkFk] rk¡x vkSj ‘’kjhj cuk;k tkrk gS vkSj ,dlkFk feyk;k tkrk gS A uewuk ds lEiw.kZ gksus ds ckn] /kkrq dks lHkh vaxksa esa igq¡pkus ds fy, ekse es jUuj dks yxk;k tkrk gS A ckn es vkd`fr dks LFkkfu; feêh ls fyiVk tkrk gS rkfd vko’;d eksVkik fey lds A eksYM vkd`fr dks lw;Z ds uhps lw[kus ds fy, NksM+ fn;k tkrk gS A lw[kus ds fy, yxHkx ,d eghuk yxrk gS A ckgj ls dsoy jUuj dk eq[k gh ns[k ldrs gS A tc ;g eksYM vPNh rjg ls lw[k tkrk gS rc bls xje fd;k tkrk gS rkfd ekse fi?ky lds vkSj ml {ks= es /kkrq <+ky lds A blfy, bl izfØ;k dks ^ekse xqe izfØ;k* dgrs gS A bl eksYM dks xkscj ds lkFk dqN bZa/ku Mkyk tkrk gS vkSj xje fd;k tkrk gS A dkfLVax ds fnu eksYM xje jguk pkfg, rkfd ;g rkieku mrkj & p<+ko dks lgu dj lds tc xje /kkrq dks mlds Åij Mkyk tkrk gS A dkaL; ewfrZ;ksa ds fy, dPpk eky rk¡ck] ihry vkSj tLrk dks 82%15%3 vuqikr esa feJ.k fd;k tkrk gS vkSj Øwlhcy es dks;yk bZa/ku ds :i esa vkSj Cyksoj ds mi;ksx ls xje fd;k tkrk gS A ekse uewuk ds Hkkj ls mi;ksx gksusokys /kkrq dk Hkkj 8 xquk vf/kd gksrk gS A bl eksYM dks tehu ds uhps j[kk tkrk gS] jUuj ds eq[k dks Åij dh vkSj NksM+ fn;k tkrk gS A bl ih?kys ikuh dks eksYM ds Hkhrj cM+h lko/kkuh ls Mkyk tkrk gS A jkrHkj esa eksYM vkSj /kkrq BaMk gks tkrk gSa vkSj eksYM dks rksM+dj vkd`fr dks ckgj fudkyk tkrk gS A vkd`fr cgqr [kqjnqjk vkSj dP+pk gksrk gS A ckn es jUuj dks dkVk tkrk gS vkSj Nsuh ls ewfrZ dks laEiw.kZ fd;k tkrk gS A vafre iksyhf’kax ds fy, ckjhd Hkjk tkrk gS vkSj ,flM~ ls /kks;k tkrk gS A vk/kkj dks Hkh ekse esa vyx ls eksMy fd;k tkrk gS vkSj vkd`fr ds dkLV dks var eas Mkyk tkrk gS A ewfrZ Bksl gksrh gS A iapykSg ewfrZ cukus ds fy, dqN ek=k esa lksuk vkSj pk¡nh Mkyk tkrk gS A

49

rough and crude. Then the runner is cut away and the idol is finished with chisels. The final polishing is done by fine filing and washing with acid. The pedestal is also modeled in the wax separately and cast for being fixed at last with the image. The idol remains solid. For making panchaloha idols a little amount of gold and silver is added.

• Uniqueness:

• All the icons made here are made strictly according to the rules

written in the early texts of shilp shastras • All the images are made solid and the finish of the images are very

high • No replication is possible in this. Each piece is individually made and

finished. • The alluvial soil used for moulding without any admixture, is a unique

feature the nature itself has granted, which is really an important promoting feature of this craft.

• The style in itself is unique, which descends from the Chola period,

still called the “Chola style”.

• Inspection body

Structure of the inspection body is given below.

1. Regional Director (H) SR, Office of DC (Handicrafts), Chennai 2. Chairperson, Crafts Council of India, Chennai 3. A representative from Handicrafts NGO 4. A representative from NID 5. A non-official Member associated with art and craft

50

¼V½ vrqyuh;rk %

• f’kYi ’kkL= xzaFk ds fu;e ds vuqlkj gh lHkh ewfrZ;k¡ cukbZ tkrh tkrh gS A

• lHkh vkd`fr Bksl gksrh gS vkSj vkdf̀r dh fQuh’k cgqr mPp gksrh gS A

• dksbZ nksgjkiu lEHko ugha gS A gj pht viuh vkSj ls cukbZ vkSj iw.kZ fd;k tkrk gS

• eksfYMax ds fy, fcuk fdlh feJ.k ds dNkjh feêh dk mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS] tks bldh

fof’k"Vrk gS ftls izd`fr us iznku dh gS] tks bl f’kYi dh eq[; fof’k"Vrk gS A

• ;g ’kSyh viuh vkSj ls fof’k"V gS] tks pksy dky ls pyh vk jgh gS] ftls ^pksy ’kSyh* dgrs gS

A

¼B½ fujh{k.k fudk; %

fujh{k.k fudk; dk <k¡pk fuEufyf[kr gS %

1- {ks=h; funs’kd ¼,p½ Mh-lh ¼gLrf’kYi½ dk dk;kZy;] psUubZ A

2- lHkkifr] ØWk¶V dkWÅaaafly vkWQ bafM;k] psUubZ A

3- gLrf’kYi ,u-th-vks dk izfrfuf/k A

4- ,u-vkbZ-Mh dk izfrfuf/k A

5- dyk vkSj f’kYi ls lEcaf/kr xSj & ljdkjh lnL; A

51

52

G.I. – APPLICATION NUMBER 65 Application is made by Development Commissioner (Handcrafts), Ministry of

Textiles, government of India, West Block No.7, RK Puram, New Delhi, India for

registration in Part A under Application No 65 of Temple Jewellery Of Nagercoil

in respect of Jewellery falling under Class 14 is hereby advertised as accepted

under sub-section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods

(Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

Applicant : Development Commissioner (Handicrafts),

Ministry of Textiles, Government of India West Block No. 7, RK Puram, New Delhi, India

Address : Development Commissioner (Handicrafts),

Ministry of Textiles, Government of India West Block No. 7, RK Puram, New Delhi, India

Geographical Indication : TEMPLE JEWELLERY OF

NAGERCOIL

Class : 14 Goods : Jewellery

53

Tkh-vkbZ- & vkosnu la[;k 65 ;g vthZ fodkl dfe’uj ¼gLrf’kYi½] oL= ea=ky;] Hkkjr ljdkj] osLV CykWd u-7] vkj-ds-iqje] ubZ fnYyh] Hkkjr us Hksth gS A oxZ 14 ds varxZr vkusokyk ukxjdksby dk eafnj tokgjkr dks iath ds Hkkx ^v* es iathd`r djus ds fy, HkkSxksfyd min’kZu vkosnu la[;k 65 ds v/khu ;g vthZ Hksth xbZ gS vkSj HkkSxksfyd min’kZu eky ¼iathdj.k vkSj laj{k.k½ fof/k] 1999 ds Hkkx 13 ds miHkkx ¼1½ ds v/khu mldh Lohd`fr djus gsrq ,rn~}kjk ;g foKkiu fn;k tkrk gS A vkosnd % fodkl dfe’uj ¼gLrf’kYi½ oL= ea=ky;] Hkkjr ljdkj] osLV CykWd u-7] vkj-ds-iqje] ubZ fnYyh] Hkkjr irk % fodkl dfe’uj ¼gLrf’kYi½ oL= ea=ky;] Hkkjr ljdkj] osLV CykWd u-7] vkj-ds-iqje] ubZ fnYyh] Hkkjr- HkkSxksfyd min’kZu % ukxjdksby dk eafnj tokgjkr oxZ % 14 eky % tokgjkr

54

(B) Name of the applicant : Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, West Block No. 7, RK Puram New Delhi

(F) Address : Development Commissioner

(Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, West Block No. 7, RK Puram New Delhi

(G) List of association of persons /

Producers / organization / : To be provided on request. Authority

(H) Type of goods : Handicraft

(I) Specification These are basically stone/jewel studded temple jewellery which include head gears, coronets and special ornaments for temple deities. Bharatnatyam dancers also wear same type of jewellery for their performance. They are Quiet heavy looking and with stones all-round embedded with gold foil. Red, Blue, Green and white stones are used for the making and the popular designs are makari, naga, yali, swan, parrot, mango, etc.

• • Name of the Geographical Indication (and particulars)

TEMPLE JEWELLERY OF NAGERCOIL The craft originates from ‘Vadassery’ the capital town of Kanyakumari District. The said geographical indication identifies and indicates the manufactured goods originating in the place of Vadassery in Kanyakumari District of Tamilnadu.

• Description of goods:

Product

• Jewellery, Head gears coronets and special ornaments for temple deities. • Jewellery for Bharatanatyam dances.

55

¼d½ vkosnd dk uke % fodkl dfe’uj ¼gLrf’kYi½

oL= ea=ky;] Hkkjr ljdkj]

osLV CykWd u-7] vkj-ds-iqje]

ubZ fnYyh] Hkkjr

¼[k½ irk % fodkl dfe’uj ¼gLrf’kYi½

oL= ea=ky;] Hkkjr ljdkj]

osLV CykWd u-7] vkj-ds-iqje]

ubZ fnYyh] Hkkjr

¼x½ O;fDr@mRiknd@laxBu@

izkf/kdkj la?k dh lwph % ekaxs tkus ij fn;k tk;sxk A

¼/k½ ekyksa dk oxZ % gLrf’kYi

¼M½ fufnZf"Vdj.k %

;g vkerkSj ls jRu@xgus LVM eafnj tokgjkr gS ftlesa eafnj nsorkvksa ds Vksih] NksVk

eqdqV vkSj fo’ks"k tokgjkr ’kkfey gS A HkjrukV;e urZdh yksx Hkh vius izn’kZu ds fy, bl izdkj ds

tokgjkr igurs gS A ;g ns[kus es /khj Hkkjh gksrs gS vkSj Lo.kZ ijr ds lkFk vklikl jRu tMsa gq, gksrs

gS A cukus ds fy, yky] fuyk] gjk vkSj lQsn jRu dk mi;ksx gksrk gS vkSj vke] rksrk] cÙk[k] pwgk]

ukx] edjh vkfn izfl) fMtkbu gS A

¼p½ HkkSxksfyd min’kZu ds uke ¼vkSj fooj.k½ %

ukxjdksby dk eafnj tokgjkr

;g dyk dU;kdqekjh ftyk ds jkt/kkuh ^oMlsjh* ’kgj ls mnHko gqvkA ;g HkkSxksfyd

min’kZu rfeyukMq ds dU;kdqekjh ftyk ds oMlsjh ’kgj ls fufeZr eky dh igpku vkSj izrhd gS A

¼N½ eky dk o.kZu %

mRikn

• tokgjkr] Vksih] NksVk eqdqV vkSj eafnj naorkvksa dk fo’ks"k tokgjkr A

• HkjrukV;e u`R; tokgjkr A

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Detailed description

• BindhaSaram (Headset) • Mookkuthi (Nose) • Pillakku (Nose), Nathu (Nose) • Maatti (Forehead) • Jimikki (Ear) • Necklace (Neck) • Maaya (Mala Chain) • Vangi (Hands) • Valaiy (Forearm) • Ottiyanam (Lips) • Kolusu (Legs) • Metti (Fingers of Leg) • Bahudicharam (Forehead) • Kanganam (Bracelets)

Jewellery for common use-jewels like Mookkuthi, Necklace, Maathi, Jimikki, Valaiyal, Metti are used by the common people.

• Geographical area of production and maps as shown in page number 60.

• Proof of origin / Brief History (Historical Records)

As the craft technique is a father-to-son Passover the exact origin is not recorded. However according to craftsman the origin of this craft could be traced to the early 17th century or even before when the Kings and Chieftains (now in Ramanathapuram Dist) came to Nagercoil and purchased one set of gold ornaments set with real diamonds for offering to the temple in Chettinad-a must for offerings to temple during festival and marriages.These jewels designed in large patterns could also be seen in nearby Suchindrum temple and Srirangam Temple at Trichy. Even now some pieces like coronets are being made for temples. Thus the jewellery came to be known as temple jewellery. During the course or time the gold gave place to silver and so is the real diamonds to synthetic stones. Mostly used by the Bharatnatyam dancers these jewels started finding market in the metropolitan cities as a substitute for real gold ornaments.

• Method of Production:

The design to be made is drawn on a paper. Silver sheet is cut to shape of design. Then the silver tape is curled and vertically welded on the surface of the precut silver sheet so as to make a placed silver tape is soldered to the Sheet by heat. Bees wax is mixed with the fine power of a stone locally available called as ‘Kittakkal’. Powder which helps the wax remains strong for longer period. This mixture is heated and filled in the cavities. The sides and back portion of the ornament is electroplated in gold in older to achieve a glittering uniform gold look. Then the stones are set on these cavities on wax. Now the stone studded jewel is ready for

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lfoLrkj o.kZu

• fcU/kk’kj.k ¼Åijh Hkkx ltkuk½

• ewDdqRrh ¼ukd½

• fiYydq ¼ukd½] uRFkq ¼ukd½

• ekRFkh ¼ekFkk½

• ftfeDdh ¼dku½

• gkj ¼xyk½

• ek;k ¼ekyk pSu½

• oaxh ¼gkFk½

• oy;y ¼dqguh ls dykbZ rd dk gkFk dk Hkkx½

• vksVh;kue ¼gksaB½

• dksyqlq ¼iSj½

• esV~Vh ¼iSj dh Åaxyh½

• cq/khpj.k ¼ekFkk½

• daxue ¼daxu½

vke turk lkekU; mi;ksx ds fy, tokgjkr tSls ewDdqRrh] gkj] ekRFkh] ftfeDdh] oy;y] esV~Vh dk iz;ksx djrs Fks A ¼t½ mRiknu dk HkkSxksfyd vapy vkSj uD’kk Ik`LB la[;k esa fn;k x;k gS A ¼>½ mRifÙk dk lcwr @ la{ksi bfrgkl ¼,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k½

;g dyk rduhd dk Kku firk ls iq= dks izkIr gksrk gS] blfy, blds mnHko dk

vfHkys[ku ugh fd;k x;k gS A ysfdu f’kYidkjksa ds vuqlkj bl dyk dk mn~Hko iwoZ 17 oha ’krkCnh ;k

mlls igys tc ukxjdksby ls jktk vkSj eqf[k;k ¼vc jkeukFkiqje ftyk½ vk;s Fks vkSj psV~VhukM+ ds

eafnj dks HksaV djus ds fy, vlyh ghjk ;qDr ,d tksM+k Lo.kZ tokgjkr [kjhns Fks tks ml le; eafnjksa

dks ioZ vkSj fookg ds nkSjku HksaV djrs Fks] dks crkrs gS A bl tokgjkr dh fMtkbZu izfr:Ik cM+h

gksrh Fkh vkSj fr#ph ds ikl ds lqphanze eafnj vkSj Jhjaxe eafnj es ns[ks tk ldrs gS A vc Hkh eafnj

ds fy, dqN phtsa tSls NksVk eqdqV cuk;k tkrk gS A vr% bl tokgjkr dks eafnj tokgjkr dgrs Fks A

le; ds ifjorZu ds lkFk Lo.kZ dh txg pk¡nh us ys fy;k vkSj vlyh ghjsa dh txg d.ktksM+ jRu A

vkerkSj ls bl tokgjkr dk mi;ksx HkjrukV;e urZdh djrs Fks vc egkuxjksa ds cktkjksa es Lo.kZ

tokgjkr dh txg bldk mi;ksx djrs gS A

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applying gold leaf. The fine leaf is fixed on the exposed wax in between the silver line and the stone so that the entire exposed wax is sealed with the gold leaf. The gold leaf is fixed on the wax with the use of a small pre-heated “Kathir” (a small chisel like tool curved at the tip). The gold leaf firmly fixes on the surface and now the stones are seen in a particular design on the surface. A single craftsman is not completed is not completing the entire job from preparing silver base to the finishing work. Silver bases are specialized by a group of designer’s mostly young artisans. Fixing the stones and applying gold leaf is done by experienced craftsman who give silver sheets to the other craftsman for making silver base on piece work basis. Then the manufacturer engages two or three artisans for fixing stones & gold leaf on piece work basis. This work is being carried out at artisan’s houses. No artisan is a regular employee with any manufacturer.

• Uniqueness:

This craft is practiced only at Vadassery and nowhere else. It’s technique, process and application is even unique. Making silver framework and after laying stones filling the gaps with gold foil which deserves a lot of workmanship is very unique. The jewellery made like this remains for centuries. Making of headgears and special ornaments are again very uniqueness.

• Inspection body Structure of the inspection body is given below. 1. Regional Director (H) SR, Office of DC (Handicrafts), Chennai. 2. Chairperson, Crafts Council of India, Chennai. 3. A representative from Handicrafts NGO. 4. A representative from NID. 5. A non-official Member associated with art and craft.

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¼¥½ mRiknu dh fof/k % dkxt esa fMtkbu cuk;k tkrk gS A fMtkbu ds vkdkj esa pk¡nh ijr dks dkVk tkrk gS A ckn esa pk¡nh Vsi dks NYyk fd;k tkrk gS vkSj igys ls gh dVs pk¡nh ijr ds lrg ij lh/kk lksyMj fd;k tkrk gS rkfd ijr ij pk¡nh Vsi ok"Ik dh lgk;rk ls lksyMj gkS A LFkkuh; miyC/k ckjhd jRu ikmMj ftls ^dhV~Vdy* dgrs gS dks e/kqeD[kh ekse ls feyk;k tkrk gS A ikmMj ekse dks vf/kd le; rd etcwr j[kus esa enn~ iznku djrk gS A bl feJ.k dks xje fd;k tkrk gS vkSj fooj esa Hkjk tkrk gS A tokgjkr ds ,d Hkkx vkSj fiNys Hkkx dks Lo.kZ ls eqyEek p<+k;k tkrk gS rkfd ,d leku Lo.kZ n`f"V fey lds A ckn es ekse ds fooj esa jRu dks Hkjk tkrk gS A vc jru LVM tokgjkr ij Lo.kZ ijr p<+kus ds fy, rS;kj gS A fpdus iÙks dks [kqys ekse ds pk¡nh js[kk ds chp esa Mkyk tkrk gS vkSj jRu rkfd Lo.kZ iÙks ls [kqys ekse dks can fd;k tk;s A NksVs iwoZ m"ek Þdfnjß ¼NksVk Nsuh tSlk vkStkj tks Åij ls oØ gS½ ds mi;ksx ls ekse ij Lo.kZ iÙkk yxk;k tkrk gS A lrg ij Lo.kZ iÙksa dkssa etcwrh ls yxk;k tkrk gS vkSj lrg ij vc jRu dks fof’k"V fMtkbZu esa ns[kk tk ldrk gS A ¼V½ vrqyuh;rk % ;g dyk flQZ oMlsjh es gh vH;kl fd;k tkrk gS vkSj dgh ugh A bldh rduhd] izfØ;k vkSj vuqiz;ksx fof’k"V gS A pk¡nh <+k¡pk dks cukuk vkSj jRu dks yxkdj [kkyh txg dks Lo.kZ ijr ls Hkjus esa dkQh dk;Zdq’kyrk dh t:jr gksrh gS tks fof’k"V gS A bl rjg ls tokgjkr cukuk ‘’krkCnh rd jgrk gS A Vksih vkSj fo’ks"k tokgjkr cukuk iqu% cgqr fof’k"V gS A ¼B½ fujh{k.k fudk; % fujh{k.k fudk; dk <k¡pk fuEufyf[kr gS %

6- {ks=h; funs’kd ¼,p½ ,l-vkj] Mh-lh ¼gLrf’kYi½ dk dk;kZy;] psuubZ A 7- lHkkifr] ØWk¶V~ dkWÅfly vkWQ bafM;k] psUubZ A 8- gLrf’kYi ,u-th-vks dk izfrfuf/k 9- ,u-vkbZ-Mh dk izfrfuf/k 10- dyk vkSj f’kYi ls lEcaf/kr xSj & ljdkjh lnL; A

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